If you want to keep the tank clean, or be able to easily use different solutions. You can just keep water in the ultrasonic tank and keep the solution + parts in a zip lock bag. The sound waves travel straight through the bag (or plastic peanut butter jar etc ) and does the same job with far less fuss.
Thanks for taking the time to post this vid. The concentration of acetic acid found in white household vinegar is .4% by volume.....less than one half percent. A full 5% concentration of acetic acid by volume in water can easily and economically be formulated by any chemical supply house. Using the 5% solution to soak ferrus metals will remove all of the rust without the expense of an ultrasonic cleaner purchase. The used solution can be filtered through a paper coffee filter, stored in a sealed container and reused over and over. Hope this helps folks on a tight budget that wish a non-mechanical way to cleanup rusty tools. Just remember to rinse the cleaned items with clean water after the rust removal is completed. Best to you and yours.
would this need to be stored inside? I see the more pure, the higher the freezing point for acetic acid, found quarts of pure, said 64F it freezes, would not want containers to rupture, inside or out in the garage... any tips for the 5% or other strengths to pass along?
Depending on the size of your cleaner, you can get some amazing increase in agitation by "tuning" the volume. On a smaller, Harbor Freight or similar unit, start with less liquid than you need (not in your bag but the surrounding fluid). Add hot water while watching the surface ripples and agitation. Depending on the load, you can find a point with vigorous agitation. At higher levels, it dies down as the water volume absorbs and dampens the energy. For small parts, I've found clear, "crisp" plastic cups to convey the energy well.
WD 40 and a steel brush or a fine sandpaper. If something is rusted shut you can soak it in a bucket of diesel overnight or longer depending how stuck. And believe or not soaking in a bucket of water sometimes helps unstick tools like pipe wrenches and adjustable wrenches when rusted stuck.
I like using citric acid and water instead of vinegar. You can buy it at grocery stores like vinegar, just a couple table spoons per quart is usually enough, especially if the ultrasonic does heat. And it usually takes around an hour to clean rust off most tools. For real rusty stuff I've found using a plastic bucket with a citric acid solution in higher concentrations with a using a 9 to 12 volt dc power source with one lead to the metal and one lead in solution and let alone over night usually works great. Electrolysis
I mix simple green with vinegar and water. It degreases and removes rust very well. I use it to clean carburetors, though too strong of a solution will darken some metals like aluminum and brass. Ultrasonic cleaning is awesome.
I use a 70/30 mix of Pinesol to water in just a bucket for bike carbs, but if you leave more than 24 hours anything steel on a carb will start to rust in the solution.. was hoping to find something that would prevent that, so perhaps pinesol n vinegar would mix?? just bought a 6L ultrasonic cleaner.. I do have some other product similar to simple green from Sam's a decade ago, was clear and very fragrant, keep forgetting I have it..
I’ve just been thru the vinegar rust removal thing. Bought 2 litres of cleaning vinegar (in the cleaning section of supermarket) and 2 litres of double strength vinegar which was stronger and cheaper. Double strength was in food section mainly for pickeling. This was Australia so may be different in other countries.
I use home made kombucha tea for rust removal. I brew it nice and strong in a 5gal bucket. It has a variety of acids in it and seems to works better than vinegar and is almost free. All it costs me is a couple of used tea bags and some white sugar and some time to brew it. It will keep till you need to remove rust with it if you store it like you might for drinking..
If you have not done so already to protect the metal you can use a gun bluing kit to blue the steel which is a forced oxidization which will leave a nice black finish but prevent rust in normal use. Note that a piece of blued steel can still rust if left in water or not dried after being wet. The advantage of bluing the metal over painting is the bluing doesn't leave a measurable film on the metal so it doesn't interfere with the tool's operation.
Yes, the black oxide helps resist rust because it holds oil well. It is not particularly rust resistant because it is a controlled rust product. A professional grade "kit" is over $2000. Cold blue is just coloring and not a permanent finish. Home brewed bluing is possible and much less expensive but the chemicals for commercial or home brewed bluing are extremely dangerous. We're taking about a strong caustic solution at about 400° F. You are 100% right about bluing not changing the dimensions significantly.
@@David-hm9ic I disagree! Not from a theoretical POV but hard experience over many years. Hot bluing with used or clean oil works very well, even in the home workshop or shed and generally provides a somewhat more durable finish than cold blue. It is also non toxic, although I always do it in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing smoke coming from the oil when quenching parts as might be expected just from common sense. Cold blue in a domestic environment is NOT that expensive! A litre of cold blue solution can be purchased for around £30-35. 250ml for £13-16. However, REMEMBER, that unlike the way you often see cold blue solution being used it IS supposed to be diluted with plain tap water at around 6-8:1. I have had good results with weaker ratios than that though AND reused it afterwards, simply adding small quantities (a few ml at a time) to top it up. This means even 250ml goes a LONG way. It is NEITHER extremely caustic or acidic but it's almost certainly toxic to consume so DON'T. But massively diluting it (even adding some milk to completely neutralise any remaining acid) means it is not a problem to dispose of down a normal sink. So unless you are made of money, buying gallons or tens of litres and using it all neat you won't have issues. Just use a face shield or safety glasses, an apron or lab coat and rubber or nitrile gloves and be cautious in handling, just like with any chemical process, and all will be good. Nobody frets about using Ferric Chloride at home for PCB making yet cold bluing is less dangerous and WAY less toxic than that! Bluing, hot or cold DOES inhibit, but does NOT prevent rusting because in both cases it is basically an oxide barrier and hence a form of rust. It does NOT PREVENT rust though, it merely inhibits it somewhat, usually to a mild surface spot rusting which can usually be cleaned off with some mild abrasion with Scotchbrite
Just run a brass wire brush over the parts when you take them out, and the remaining rust usually just falls off. Always scrub after putting in the U.C
I think a few are missing the point of this experiment. I understand that leaving rusty parts in a vinegar solution for 24 hours or more will remove the rust. I don't dispute this at all as I have done this myself before with great results. What I was attempting to find out is if using a vinegar solution in an ultrasonic cleaner will speed up the process of removing said rust. Did I succeed in this task (before messing it up)? I guess you'll have to watch the video to find out!
If you can add a bit of agitation to move water and take more of the loosened rust particles away from the surface, you will have less brushing to do. I use a small aquarium pumps to circulate water through the bath.
zigroid - not really, unless the hot water causes issues with the plastic. Those little pumps have a completely separate and sealed volume where the plastic impeller is on the end of the fully enclosed ferric core that rotates, practically levitates without bearings and the stator that generates the rotating field does not come into contact with the working fluid. I have not tried mine at 70 degrees C° though ...
Adding Oxy clean: Vinegar is an acid. All acids will remove rust, some are too aggressive to use and will pit the steel, so mild acids such as vinegar and phosphoric acid work well with minimum pitting. Anything that has the label Oxy- something has sodium percarbonate in it as the active ingredient which is a base or alkaline (it is a combination of hydrogen peroxide with washing soda). When the 2 are mixed, you will get a reaction, often violent, the result will be a salt which is effectively disabling the acid action. Sodium percarbonate is excellent to use after cleaning with acid because it neutralizes the acid and stops surface rust after you remove the item from the acid and expose it to air.
@@jungleking007Channel phosphoric acid will react with the iron oxide (rust) and create a durable black material known as iron phosphate which effectively stops the rust (oxidation) process. Rusting is a slow burning of the metal. Hence iron parts fetched from a fire are all rusty.
You can’t easily clean every nook and cranny, and you can grind off letters/numbers. And believe it or not wire wheel for example can polish rust to the point that it looks like good metal
@@fila1445 *I use light pressure and never grind off anything not intended, the abrasive wheels i use are narrow with 3" long bristles so they reach more spots than wire does. The wire also is easier to leave deep lines in soft metal so use what works best for you.*
@@bigtexas7580 as car restoration is just my hobby i just tend to leave parts in cytric acid for 12 hours and continue working the next day :P I just submerge it and forget it :P
24 hrs in strait vinegar walk away. No need for ultrasonic. Good test , no issue with trying it. Did 50 screw chucks I found left out after dad passed. Most wouldn’t even go into screw gun. 24 hrs later I just wiped them off and misted them with machine oil. Like bran new. No brushing. Now have useable chucks.
@@son-of-a-gun Prove it. Tell me more about Siderosis. You can treat the symptoms but the damage is permanent. Cheap/lazy/ignorant are all poor excuses. And in the words of Flea, “It’s better to regret something you did than something you didn’t do.”
Don't know, but ultrasonic + vinegar has made my drainpipes and all other bathroom installations like new. Rust I do remove by hand with steel wool and phosphoric acid (apply several times, wash with cleaner and water in between until all and any rust scars are removed - everything must shine like silver). Then dry with hot air immediately and apply zinc paint within 12 hours.
theres a good chance that the protractor is bubbling more then the rest because the dissimulair metals are causing calvanic currents (turning it intoo a battery and eating up the weakest metal )
You can tell it's working by the crud in the solution. I've had one of these ultrasonic cleaners for years, but it's one with two dials, one for time, one for temperature as they're far easier to repair by anyone with common sense, a simple two wire time switch and a standard thermostat. the digital ones are going to cost a fortune to repair, (if possible) Also don't leave solution too long in tank (months) as some solutions rot the drain pipe which is just above the circuit boards. Also I've tried some very very aggressive cleaning solutions, and it's NEVER rotted the stainless, only stained from the crud off the components.
Higher concentrations of acetic acid would definitely be bettwe. Actually recently found a 30% concentration in the pool section of Walmart, but didn't want to spend the $30 for a gallon.
I have used straight vinegar on all my rusty tools for years. I have never tried a vibratory or untrlasonic cleaner on them. It seems to work much faster. I leave my tools in overnight and if needed some of them stay in a day longer. I always rinse thoroughly with water from the garden hose as I brush them and then wipe them dry. I don't oil them. I paint them with spray lacquer. I got busy and left some tools unpainted for over a year in a bucket and they did not rust at all. Of course I didn't let then get rained on. I was surprised. The point is there is something you did which is causing them to rust right after coming out of the bath. I think it's the Oxyclean . Oxyclean used oxygen and rust is oxidation. I don't know if the Oxyclean is helping your cleaning process or not but if you keep using it, you should rinse the parts immediately and dry them quickly.
Probably good to use them separately the more I read the comments. I'll probably test using a higher vinegar concentration and leave it at that. Then have a rinse after final cleaning that will neutralize the vinegar so it doesn't continue to etch the metal. Want to film more but due to some recent events, my focus was forced to shift to my primary job. Will post more videos soon...I hope! Thanks for watching!
How do I get one of this ultrasonic cleaner for a school project, I can't get one in my country and the exchange rate from dollar to Naira is so high I can't afford a new one on Alibaba. Do any one have one at low price
You should fill it up to 1" from the top edge of the tank. And what helps it is a suspended cleaning solution which acts as a fine aggregate to remove stuff from the surface.
Keep in mind that even though the tank, basket, drain and everything is stainless, at raised temps +ultrasonic cleaning action its gonna suffer in contact with highly acidic solutions. Preferably you'd wanna use an extra container inside the basket for aggressive cleaning solutions like that and fill up the unit with plain water.
Muriatic acid, or rustoleum rust desolver in the ultrasonic (acid must be in glass jar) , trust me. They both work amazing and take less time than a 10 minutes cycle for stupid strong rust. Rustoleum takes slightly longer and is more expensive but safer. Haven't had any issue with the acid despite hearing it will etch the metal. Comes out smooth. For precise machine parts, I'd probably use the rustoleum though.
Not a metallurgist or chemist, but I believe that is a reaction between the vinegar and the rust turning it into another form of oxidation. might allow the piece to soak a bit longer then turn on the ultrasonic cleaner to see if the layer is removed. may need to use a soft brush to remove.
Hey I found one of these and I don't know if it works yet I don't have the basket for its necessary use the basket by the way my workbench looks the same😅
Just thought I'd note that you can get cleaning vinegar much stronger, I've seen it as high as 45%. If you are gonna have cleaning vinegar around, have a box of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) around as well, to neutralize it if you spill it, or get it on yourself.
Might want to bake the tools in and oven at 250 degrees for 2 hours or so to get rid of hydrogen embrittlement. Same for electroplated tools. They can break like glass if not done. Liked the video, got to get one.
What's the ultrasonic cleaner constructed from ?, and could the fluid be made electrolytic? and could it react with the metal of the cleaner if you use electrolysis at the same time in it? I'm not even a minute in and wondering if I've typed the above for nothing. lol
I did a test for a couple days with double strength vinegar, in a metal screw on wine bottle cap. ( nothing but the best for me 🙃) there was a major change on the rusty screw, but was eating away the bottle cap as well.
How about heating the water/vinegar forehand on the stove and then adding to U/Sonic. This will reduce waiting time and extend life of U/sonic machine. 😊😊👍👍
Hi ..I am about to buy a Ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning Carbon Steel Pipe 9.5 mm. Please help me out would like to know what solution to use in order to avoid rusting later on. I can use plain water for cleaning and maybe use a blower or a oven to dry it out. Please let me know how should I go about it..thnx..
usually a rust inhibitor like a light oil. WD40 is by definition a rust inhibitor. however, if you don't want to introduce an oil, as long as the steel is stored in a low humidity environment for a short period of time, you should be fine as long as the steel is completely dried.
What would happen if you let this setup run overnight, 24 hours, several days, or a week? I've used electrolysis many times to clean rusty tools and parts, and it works very well. I'm not sure if the two processes could be combined. Perhaps with a plastic tub to electrically isolate the ultrasound tank from the electrolysis anode? Also, maybe next time you could set up a tank with only chemicals to see the difference the ultrasonic soundwaves make?
My ultrasonic cleaner manual instructs to not use more than 1 hour, then let it cool down before resuming any cleaning. Damage to the machine itself will or could result.
Time will destroy everything. Such is the case with this. Unless you are using more delicate frequency 80-100kHz the usual 40kHz will eventually cause everything to become pitted from the continual expolosive cavitation.
At what point during the ultrasonic process does the cleaner solution break down? I have used Simple Green, Dawn dish detergent, CLR, and a number of other things to clean parts.
That is a very good question I unfortunately can not answer. I've never left cleaner in my ultrasonic cleaner reservoir for very long. Usually use it once or twice, then it's drained and replaced.
Using really strong vinegar would also help. Up to a 30% acid concentration is readily available, but the odors are very strong and you will need ventilation.
Vinegar can be a wicked bitch. Learn from my mistake. Never leave your tools in vinegar longer than 24 hours. I made that mistake and forgot about it for about 4 days and lost an entire metric and SAE set of Allen wrenches. The smallest ones literally turned to dust and the rest of them were a size smaller and it pulled the hardness out of em. I don't know how it pulled the hardness out off em, but they're all so soft that they round over on bolts torqued down above 20 ft lbs. And make sure you rinse all the vinegar off and liberally apply oil to all surfaces exposed to the vinegar so it doesn't continue to work after they're dry.
Yea, I should not have done that, but was in an experimenting mood. I'll have to do just vinegar next time. Apparently there is more concentrated vinegar solution out there I might be able to obtain to try this again.
@@mannys9130 This is right. It's a combination of disodium carbonate and sodium percarbonate, as opposed to bicarbonate of soda. Similar chemicals, but not the same. At any rate, they may have diluted the acidity if the vinegar and deposited a salt or lye like substance on the metal. He may not want to use these two materials together again. Fortunately, no toxic fumes were emitted.
Water not hot enough.I personally boil water on the stove, then pour into machine it cuts water warming time, less time listening to the ultrasonic cleaner buzzing, cleaner i use is Zep Citric Cleaner 1/2 cup per gallon.
White vinegar is DAMNED expensive for that quantity. Have you thought about citric acid instead? I've used it on its own for derusting all sorts of stuff ... Large and small and it is VERY cheap in comparison. Vinegar on its own has never proved that effective for me so its an experiment worth doing. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner so can't do it myself.
@@scottcates well I bought 5 kg IIRC for next to bugger all and I've de-rusted LOADS of stuff, large and small, from RUSTED SOLID shifting wrench and old Stilson style wrench to lathe chucks, lathe gears, headstock parts, tailstock & parts, pillar drill chuck etc. and barely made a dent in that 5kg. I think maybe I've used around a kilo and a bit! In addition, using it in a large 40 litre storage box, I just kept reusing it, simply adding more acid crystals to beef it up. After several uses, I then would filter it through standard kitchen roll to take out the crud bits, wash out the container and put it back in the container to use again. For smaller parts like nuts and bolts and small steel items, I just use a large empty 800g mayonnaise jar with a large diameter lid almost the diameter of the jar (~65-70mm), tall enough even to do the engine studs I use for generic steel rod. This I use indoors with the lid on loosely and the extra warmth helps. I can leave parts for days and days without harm. I have even dunked completely two very rusty but intact engineers tool clamps plus an engineer's H clamp or square clamp (disassembled) and two of which I've even polished up with red or green Scotchbite (pads and rotary) and then cold blued! After de-rusting, I generally just use 240 grit or suitable Scotchbrite to get a decent finish and sometimes, sometimes not, use cold blue finish! The ONLY other de-rusting method I rate because it too is VERY effective and CHEAP is electrolysis, especially for heavily corroded items, since much of the deep corrosion directly adjacent to the underlying steel gets converted back into grey iron. I have yet to experiment with Citric acid as the electrolyte to see if that works as well.
Its an old video but never knows... I use 14%acidity vinegar, if 5 is all you get where you are do not dilute it. I've found adding salt to the mix helps loosening the rust. Highest vinegar acidity plus salt is the cheap key for me. Half and hour at 60°C and its spotless. Was noted by someone else too, works better down low in the tank and mostly in the center on cheaper cleaner. I'm using a old dentist professional cleaner, small but has options of pulsating waves at different frequency helping the ultrasonic waves to cover more ground. And be careful for your tools you clean to not touch the side, otherwise the micro rubbing will form holes and ruin your cleaner (sane for collected rust chips on the bottom)
I know you want it to just come completely clean but if you take a wire wheel to it you will be amazed how clean it comes may need a second or even third soak.
Yes a wire wheel would work, but i was trying to see if there was a "non invasive" way to remove rust. still might work if I didn't mix anything else with it... or find a higher concentrated solution.
JungleKing007 just leaving stuff in vinegar overnight helps clean off the rust. I do that often. I don’t have a parts cleaner or ultra sonic cleaner. Would love one though.
@@jungleking007Channel How about if you would put a slightly smaller plastic container inside the ultrasound and give it a try ??? Worth a try and maybe it would make a big difference.
Lately I have been using citric acid solution for rust cleaning. Commercial rust solvents are hard to come by in my area and are crazy expensive. Citric acid powder is cheap and works like a charm. Just soak the item for about 24 hours. I wonder how that solution would act in a ultrasonic cleaner though 🤔😄
Looks like the protractor is at least aluminum rather than steel. The bubbles are from hydrogen gas. The aluminum is dissolving aluminum and acetate ions plus the hydrogen, which is of course flammable.
Oh! And those axe heads are fine. I'd just put a new edge on em, hang em on some new handles and maybe just soak em in some oil over night. The pitting and rust just adds character. Just seen that this video is 4 years old. Lol!
Vinegar is corrosive. It didn't start to get surface rust because you didn't dry is off. It started rusting because you didn't immediately clean off the vinegar.
It works somewhat but certainly not good enough. A wire brush attachment on a grinder would have done all that in short order. Any fine crevices that might not get clean with that could be got with a small wire brush on a Dremel. I clean rusty tools all the time with that method. It is nice to see different things the Ultrasonic cleaners can do even if it isn't the best way to do the job. Thanks for the video.
Just use a high concentration hydrochloric acid and dilute to 30% or more aka muriatic acid or 85% phosphoric acid undiluted and check each part every 15 min until rust is gone. After rust is gone it is important to neutralize all parts in a concentrated baking soda and water bath not only to neutralize the acid but also to prevent flash rusting after the tools are wiped dry.
Ok two tips look up a chemical called PBW for metals all so if you turn your basket 1/4 turn over the top of the sonic cleaner it will drip dry and save your countertop all so i plum my drain with a. Hose so i can flush it out after i drain it
Not sure how much the ultrasonic cleaner brings to the table - I've had really good luck just letting rusty tools soak in vinegar. Sometimes it takes a couple of days, but then it comes right off with a small brass brush.
I was trying to find out if using a vinegar bath in an ultrasonic cleaner would speed up the process. I may not have a couple days to wait. I believe it was pretty effective on some surface rust like shown on the screwdriver and some of the other lightly rusted pieces. heavier items maybe not but I couldn't find out because I decided to try something new and messed up the test(lesson learned) I'm setting up to try again...
The ultrasonic cleaner would do much much better if you place it on the concrete floor. The wooden table you’re using absorbs a lot of ultrasonic waves. I did a video showing the difference.
Thought never crossed my mind, I'll have to carve out some floor space, or I wonder if placing on a concrete block on a shelf would be enough. What's the link to your video?
@@jungleking007Channel here’s where I test it on a table & then I test on the floor. Big difference (24 minutes in). There is a timeline: th-cam.com/video/vSeN2lloPYU/w-d-xo.html
"Always Add Acid" - Means put the water in FIRST, then ADD the acid to the water. Chemists everywhere are grabbing their finger-smacking rulers....Thanks for the video
I noticed you mixed vinegar and water 50/50 mix, why.? It's works so much better at 100%, been using 100% vinegar for yrs, it has never let me down, sometimes just put your piece or pieces into the vinegar and forget about it. Check on it in a couple of days. Rinse in water dry off and clean with wire brush than light coat of oil
I'm a cheap a$$ and was trying extend the life of the bottle. hindsight says I should have used all of it straight or filled reservoir with water and put the parts in sealed bags filled with vinegar.
Axe heads do much better when you lay them flat in the basket with nothing under them. The closer to the bottom the better but never without the basket.👍
why cant you use normal brown vinegar or apple cider vinegar, where i live in spain its very difficult to buy white vinegar at all, could you use sodium bisulfate instead? thats just normal ph minus here for pools as its in powder granular form. Im looking to do some nikel plating and trying to find out why all these experiments ask for white vinegar. thank you
White vinegar is a acid so it eats away at what’s covering the metal then the metal at a slower rate , any acid will do so any vinegar will work just some more quickly, citric acid works as well and of coarse the item must first be cleaned of any grease as it blocks the acid from the material you want to de rust . But the vinegar must be cleaned off after using or a base chemical should be used to stop the acidic action , and coat quickly after to stop the item from rusting more …. Some use oil it’s cheap some a wax some use chemicals to coat the item so it doesn’t rust further, or coat after a fine abrasive action like maybe sanding ! It all depends on the item your working on ! Also a good way to remove rust is to Sosa blast it to do this you need to have a air compressor and purchase soda and purchase a unit to attach to the air line to mix the soda with air ( pressure ) it’s more costly but very effective.
I use a cat litter pan and enough 6% vinegar to cover my rusty parts. No water. Let then stew for 2 or 3 days and then scrup with a stiff brush in soapy water. All rust removed with no electricity. The ultra sonic action will not remove the rust. The vinegar's acidity is what does it. The cleaner only serves as what the nylon brush does after a soak in straight vinegar. The parts should get a baking soda bath after a good rinse to neutralize the acid
@@shadowzedge5793 no; first of all that makes basically no sense. second; a high power to volume low frequency ultrasonic cleaner is better at removing rust than elbow grease u fool. also y not just use acid. thats better than elbow grease also. wake up clown.
I just got an ultrasonic cleaner, so far i have been cleaning little things. Rust removal... i think my blasting cabinet is still easiet and faster. LOL
Great at cleaning dirty fittings and carburetors! The rust removal is just an experiment. I have some old tools I wanted to limit the use of wire brushes and blast media on. I have another couple ideas to test thanks to some commenters. When I have the chance to film, another chapter in the rust removal saga will be posted. Thanks for watching!
@@jungleking007Channel i was actually just thinking about an old pistol that got some barrel "frosting" due to corrosive ammo. I have to wonder if it could clean it up a little...
cider vinegar works amazing without the ulrtrasound. Just toss tools in and leave for 24-36 hours...comes out perfect. NO other work need, just rise in water and dry tools...good as new
It's true, the vinegar will do the process in a day or two, but the test here was to see if using vinegar in an ultrasonic cleaner would speed up the process of removing rust.
I do, but life got in the way unfortunately. Priority shifted to primary job. I'm hoping to document my organization process when time and funds allow. Thanks for watching!
Hello I would like to recomend a rust remedy You will need Muriatic acid Water Mix the both of them 50 50 and check your rusty item every 5 minutes at 60 pure perfect
@@bmxs1000 no! Muric acid causes stains on stainless steel parts that must be cleaned. Muric acid dissolves the zinc component in brass (= alloy of copper +zinc) and in certain aluminium/ zinc alloys. Muric acid is okay for removing rust from mild steel though. For anything else muric acid can be very detrimental
@@son-of-a-gun hence why this is for rust removal and hence why the muriatic acid will never touch any stainless steel because it will be concealed in a glass jar 😉 anyway it worked great for freeing up old carbon steel pliers read what I put then there is no controversy my first comment stated rust removal Aluminium doesn't go rusty Brass doesn't go rusty Stainless steel goes rusty very rarely
I was in my mid 50’s when I started watching this video, I’m now 96 and writing this comment from my nursing home 🧐
I found my husband dead with still 13min left of the video. Poor guy didn’t even get to see the final result.
😂😂😂😂😂
I forgot what it was about.
@@memo007999 Hahahahaha
I've requested a DNR
If you want to keep the tank clean, or be able to easily use different solutions. You can just keep water in the ultrasonic tank and keep the solution + parts in a zip lock bag. The sound waves travel straight through the bag (or plastic peanut butter jar etc ) and does the same job with far less fuss.
you can use anything. Plastic bottles. Glass bottles. It doesnt matter. The vibrations go right through it.
I forgot to mention, glass is better. Softer containers dampen the vibrations. They still work, just not as well.
Ari Finkelman genius. Thank you!!!
Good idea
Edward Mulder not a good idea. Tried it, wasn’t as effective
Thanks for taking the time to post this vid. The concentration of acetic acid found in white household vinegar is .4% by volume.....less than one half percent. A full 5% concentration of acetic acid by volume in water can easily and economically be formulated by any chemical supply house. Using the 5% solution to soak ferrus metals will remove all of the rust without the expense of an ultrasonic cleaner purchase. The used solution can be filtered through a paper coffee filter, stored in a sealed container and reused over and over. Hope this helps folks on a tight budget that wish a non-mechanical way to cleanup rusty tools. Just remember to rinse the cleaned items with clean water after the rust removal is completed. Best to you and yours.
would this need to be stored inside? I see the more pure, the higher the freezing point for acetic acid, found quarts of pure, said 64F it freezes, would not want containers to rupture, inside or out in the garage... any tips for the 5% or other strengths to pass along?
Depending on the size of your cleaner, you can get some amazing increase in agitation by "tuning" the volume. On a smaller, Harbor Freight or similar unit, start with less liquid than you need (not in your bag but the surrounding fluid). Add hot water while watching the surface ripples and agitation. Depending on the load, you can find a point with vigorous agitation. At higher levels, it dies down as the water volume absorbs and dampens the energy. For small parts, I've found clear, "crisp" plastic cups to convey the energy well.
This is a great idea! I will use it to decalcify stuff in the future. Never thought of combining acid with an ultrasonic cleaner.
WD 40 and a steel brush or a fine sandpaper. If something is rusted shut you can soak it in a bucket of diesel overnight or longer depending how stuck. And believe or not soaking in a bucket of water sometimes helps unstick tools like pipe wrenches and adjustable wrenches when rusted stuck.
I like using citric acid and water instead of vinegar. You can buy it at grocery stores like vinegar, just a couple table spoons per quart is usually enough, especially if the ultrasonic does heat. And it usually takes around an hour to clean rust off most tools.
For real rusty stuff I've found using a plastic bucket with a citric acid solution in higher concentrations with a using a 9 to 12 volt dc power source with one lead to the metal and one lead in solution and let alone over night usually works great. Electrolysis
This started as a Vinegar test, i wish you did the extra 30 minutes before the Oxi... But the point was made and i think I'll invest... Thanks
I mix simple green with vinegar and water. It degreases and removes rust very well. I use it to clean carburetors, though too strong of a solution will darken some metals like aluminum and brass. Ultrasonic cleaning is awesome.
I use a 70/30 mix of Pinesol to water in just a bucket for bike carbs, but if you leave more than 24 hours anything steel on a carb will start to rust in the solution.. was hoping to find something that would prevent that, so perhaps pinesol n vinegar would mix?? just bought a 6L ultrasonic cleaner.. I do have some other product similar to simple green from Sam's a decade ago, was clear and very fragrant, keep forgetting I have it..
I’ve just been thru the vinegar rust removal thing. Bought 2 litres of cleaning vinegar (in the cleaning section of supermarket) and 2 litres of double strength vinegar which was stronger and cheaper. Double strength was in food section mainly for pickeling. This was Australia so may be different in other countries.
That is true in the USA.
I use home made kombucha tea for rust removal. I brew it nice and strong in a 5gal bucket. It has a variety of acids in it and seems to works better than vinegar and is almost free. All it costs me is a couple of used tea bags and some white sugar and some time to brew it. It will keep till you need to remove rust with it if you store it like you might for drinking..
If you have not done so already to protect the metal you can use a gun bluing kit to blue the steel which is a forced oxidization which will leave a nice black finish but prevent rust in normal use. Note that a piece of blued steel can still rust if left in water or not dried after being wet. The advantage of bluing the metal over painting is the bluing doesn't leave a measurable film on the metal so it doesn't interfere with the tool's operation.
Yes, the black oxide helps resist rust because it holds oil well. It is not particularly rust resistant because it is a controlled rust product. A professional grade "kit" is over $2000. Cold blue is just coloring and not a permanent finish. Home brewed bluing is possible and much less expensive but the chemicals for commercial or home brewed bluing are extremely dangerous. We're taking about a strong caustic solution at about 400° F. You are 100% right about bluing not changing the dimensions significantly.
I have a gallon of ospho on hand for tools to stop the rust, even things I might paint atop of.. if want that fresh metal look, then rinse n oil up,,
@@David-hm9ic I disagree! Not from a theoretical POV but hard experience over many years. Hot bluing with used or clean oil works very well, even in the home workshop or shed and generally provides a somewhat more durable finish than cold blue. It is also non toxic, although I always do it in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing smoke coming from the oil when quenching parts as might be expected just from common sense.
Cold blue in a domestic environment is NOT that expensive! A litre of cold blue solution can be purchased for around £30-35. 250ml for £13-16.
However, REMEMBER, that unlike the way you often see cold blue solution being used it IS supposed to be diluted with plain tap water at around 6-8:1. I have had good results with weaker ratios than that though AND reused it afterwards, simply adding small quantities (a few ml at a time) to top it up.
This means even 250ml goes a LONG way. It is NEITHER extremely caustic or acidic but it's almost certainly toxic to consume so DON'T. But massively diluting it (even adding some milk to completely neutralise any remaining acid) means it is not a problem to dispose of down a normal sink.
So unless you are made of money, buying gallons or tens of litres and using it all neat you won't have issues. Just use a face shield or safety glasses, an apron or lab coat and rubber or nitrile gloves and be cautious in handling, just like with any chemical process, and all will be good.
Nobody frets about using Ferric Chloride at home for PCB making yet cold bluing is less dangerous and WAY less toxic than that!
Bluing, hot or cold DOES inhibit, but does NOT prevent rusting because in both cases it is basically an oxide barrier and hence a form of rust. It does NOT PREVENT rust though, it merely inhibits it somewhat, usually to a mild surface spot rusting which can usually be cleaned off with some mild abrasion with Scotchbrite
Just run a brass wire brush over the parts when you take them out, and the remaining rust usually just falls off. Always scrub after putting in the U.C
I think a few are missing the point of this experiment. I understand that leaving rusty parts in a vinegar solution for 24 hours or more will remove the rust. I don't dispute this at all as I have done this myself before with great results. What I was attempting to find out is if using a vinegar solution in an ultrasonic cleaner will speed up the process of removing said rust. Did I succeed in this task (before messing it up)? I guess you'll have to watch the video to find out!
I would say the ultrasonic cleaner really speeds up the process, another cheap method is electrolysis
If you can add a bit of agitation to move water and take more of the loosened rust particles away from the surface, you will have less brushing to do. I use a small aquarium pumps to circulate water through the bath.
@@peterc5512 That's interesting, does this damage the aquarium pumps at all?
zigroid - not really, unless the hot water causes issues with the plastic. Those little pumps have a completely separate and sealed volume where the plastic impeller is on the end of the fully enclosed ferric core that rotates, practically levitates without bearings and the stator that generates the rotating field does not come into contact with the working fluid. I have not tried mine at 70 degrees C° though ...
Molasses soak!! Prepare to be amazed. 😃
Adding Oxy clean: Vinegar is an acid. All acids will remove rust, some are too aggressive to use and will pit the steel, so mild acids such as vinegar and phosphoric acid work well with minimum pitting. Anything that has the label Oxy- something has sodium percarbonate in it as the active ingredient which is a base or alkaline (it is a combination of hydrogen peroxide with washing soda). When the 2 are mixed, you will get a reaction, often violent, the result will be a salt which is effectively disabling the acid action. Sodium percarbonate is excellent to use after cleaning with acid because it neutralizes the acid and stops surface rust after you remove the item from the acid and expose it to air.
Thanks for the explanation! Learn something new every day.
@@jungleking007Channel phosphoric acid will react with the iron oxide (rust) and create a durable black material known as iron phosphate which effectively stops the rust (oxidation) process. Rusting is a slow burning of the metal. Hence iron parts fetched from a fire are all rusty.
Great info thanks!
As a rust buster I use an abrasive wheel on my drill and it works excellent. Leaves a shiny finish afterwards.
The point of the cleaner is to save time and work
You can’t easily clean every nook and cranny, and you can grind off letters/numbers.
And believe it or not wire wheel for example can polish rust to the point that it looks like good metal
@@fila1445 *I use light pressure and never grind off anything not intended, the abrasive wheels i use are narrow with 3" long bristles so they reach more spots than wire does. The wire also is easier to leave deep lines in soft metal so use what works best for you.*
@@bigtexas7580 as car restoration is just my hobby i just tend to leave parts in cytric acid for 12 hours and continue working the next day :P
I just submerge it and forget it :P
24 hrs in strait vinegar walk away. No need for ultrasonic. Good test , no issue with trying it. Did 50 screw chucks I found left out after dad passed. Most wouldn’t even go into screw gun. 24 hrs later I just wiped them off and misted them with machine oil. Like bran new. No brushing. Now have useable chucks.
been using vinegar for years, I don't have ultrasonic so I just let things soak in regular vinegar for a week or 2
Hi, what is the ratio of Cleaning vinegar to water?
This unit is designed to be filled with warm water. It will keep it hot nicely. The sonic emitters make heat too.
When you do this yourself use some sort of PPE so you don’t inhale rust dust while wire brushing a bunch of parts.
Breathing in dust of rust is unpleasant but rust will not harm your health
@@son-of-a-gun Prove it. Tell me more about Siderosis. You can treat the symptoms but the damage is permanent. Cheap/lazy/ignorant are all poor excuses. And in the words of Flea, “It’s better to regret something you did than something you didn’t do.”
@@paulking2279 You are hyperventilating.
@@elbuggo doubtful. Alpine lifestyle.
How many persen vinegar we use minimal for clean in 10 minutes ???
Don't know, but ultrasonic + vinegar has made my drainpipes and all other bathroom installations like new.
Rust I do remove by hand with steel wool and phosphoric acid (apply several times, wash with cleaner and water in between until all and any rust scars are removed - everything must shine like silver). Then dry with hot air immediately and apply zinc paint within 12 hours.
theres a good chance that the protractor is bubbling more then the rest because the dissimulair metals are causing calvanic currents (turning it intoo a battery and eating up the weakest metal )
You can tell it's working by the crud in the solution.
I've had one of these ultrasonic cleaners for years, but it's one with two dials, one for time, one for temperature as they're far easier to repair by anyone with common sense, a simple two wire time switch and a standard thermostat. the digital ones are going to cost a fortune to repair, (if possible)
Also don't leave solution too long in tank (months) as some solutions rot the drain pipe which is just above the circuit boards.
Also I've tried some very very aggressive cleaning solutions, and it's NEVER rotted the stainless, only stained from the crud off the components.
i got 45%+ vinegar on ebay , 4 gallons for 20 bucks wonder how well it will work to clean and derust
Higher concentrations of acetic acid would definitely be bettwe. Actually recently found a 30% concentration in the pool section of Walmart, but didn't want to spend the $30 for a gallon.
I have used straight vinegar on all my rusty tools for years. I have never tried a vibratory or untrlasonic cleaner on them. It seems to work much faster. I leave my tools in overnight and if needed some of them stay in a day longer. I always rinse thoroughly with water from the garden hose as I brush them and then wipe them dry. I don't oil them. I paint them with spray lacquer. I got busy and left some tools unpainted for over a year in a bucket and they did not rust at all. Of course I didn't let then get rained on. I was surprised. The point is there is something you did which is causing them to rust right after coming out of the bath. I think it's the Oxyclean . Oxyclean used oxygen and rust is oxidation. I don't know if the Oxyclean is helping your cleaning process or not but if you keep using it, you should rinse the parts immediately and dry them quickly.
Probably good to use them separately the more I read the comments. I'll probably test using a higher vinegar concentration and leave it at that. Then have a rinse after final cleaning that will neutralize the vinegar so it doesn't continue to etch the metal. Want to film more but due to some recent events, my focus was forced to shift to my primary job. Will post more videos soon...I hope! Thanks for watching!
How do I get one of this ultrasonic cleaner for a school project, I can't get one in my country and the exchange rate from dollar to Naira is so high I can't afford a new one on Alibaba.
Do any one have one at low price
Going to use this method on one of my project. Thanks
the cleaning cavitation is alot stronger if you fill the tank up to the top AND degass. to degass let it run for 10 minutes before adding parts.
Never knew to degass before use, I'll be doing this now, thanks!
A Shore what does degassing actually do? Thanks so much
Also, you can destroy the machine if you don’t fill it to the top. Read the instructions 👍
You should fill it up to 1" from the top edge of the tank. And what helps it is a suspended cleaning solution which acts as a fine aggregate to remove stuff from the surface.
Did you not rinse this stuff in water to stop the acidic reaction?
i agree thats a must i rinse carbs off after.
Parts clean better closer at the bottom where ultrasonic devices are.
Every time he says “rust” take a shot of vodka
Nastrovje! 🥴
Thanks I'm just back from the hospital
Scotch 4 me, thanks
My doctor said liver about the same amount of times after following your directions.
Evaporust use that to make it look new
Keep in mind that even though the tank, basket, drain and everything is stainless, at raised temps +ultrasonic cleaning action its gonna suffer in contact with highly acidic solutions. Preferably you'd wanna use an extra container inside the basket for aggressive cleaning solutions like that and fill up the unit with plain water.
true, especially when you use Hydrogen peroxide, strong degreaser, citric acid concentrate or paint stripper
With drain cleaner that contains sulphuric acid.
In minutes are clean...prone to oxidize fast after but a stronger acid work every time.
Vinegar alone in a tub cleans rust very well... But be careful of flash rusting once it hits the air... Oil them straight away
Muriatic acid, or rustoleum rust desolver in the ultrasonic (acid must be in glass jar) , trust me. They both work amazing and take less time than a 10 minutes cycle for stupid strong rust. Rustoleum takes slightly longer and is more expensive but safer. Haven't had any issue with the acid despite hearing it will etch the metal. Comes out smooth. For precise machine parts, I'd probably use the rustoleum though.
I do metal detecting and it ruined some of my stuff by turning it black was not happy is there away to get rid of the black
Not a metallurgist or chemist, but I believe that is a reaction between the vinegar and the rust turning it into another form of oxidation. might allow the piece to soak a bit longer then turn on the ultrasonic cleaner to see if the layer is removed. may need to use a soft brush to remove.
Hey I found one of these and I don't know if it works yet I don't have the basket for its necessary use the basket by the way my workbench looks the same😅
is there a chemical solution to remove the black color after the acid treatment?
What frequency is your cleaner?
Just thought I'd note that you can get cleaning vinegar much stronger, I've seen it as high as 45%. If you are gonna have cleaning vinegar around, have a box of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) around as well, to neutralize it if you spill it, or get it on yourself.
I'll a dad s s
Neutralizing it with baking soda would make a big mess a lot bigger lol,.haven't you ever made a baking soda volcano as a kid?
@@simplybeanjelly In a situation where the spill is actively eating either you or your surroundings... a bit of bubbles is acceptable.
I bought cleaning vinegar and double strength vinegar ( double strength only 5 or 6% in Australia) cleaning vinegar only about 3% and more expensive
Vinegar can cause hydrogen embrittlement on hardened steel, i have seen springs snap from it.
Evapo- rust will do a great job and it is reusable.
Safe for the environment to boot.
Might want to bake the tools in and oven at 250 degrees for 2 hours or so to get rid of hydrogen embrittlement. Same for electroplated tools. They can break like glass if not done. Liked the video, got to get one.
What do you mean break? What after putting them in the ultra sonic cleaner?
What's the ultrasonic cleaner constructed from ?, and could the fluid be made electrolytic? and could it react with the metal of the cleaner if you use electrolysis at the same time in it? I'm not even a minute in and wondering if I've typed the above for nothing. lol
What about CLR ? Calcium Lime Rust solution ?
Haven't tested but could probably work.
I did a test for a couple days with double strength vinegar, in a metal screw on wine bottle cap. ( nothing but the best for me 🙃) there was a major change on the rusty screw, but was eating away the bottle cap as well.
Heinz sells cleaning vinegar in 1 gal jugs..I found them at my local walmart
Yes exactly!
How about heating the water/vinegar forehand on the stove and then adding to U/Sonic.
This will reduce waiting time and extend life of U/sonic machine.
😊😊👍👍
I’ve read though. Don’t add super hot water. As it may cause the transducer to seperate from machine
Hi ..I am about to buy a Ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning Carbon Steel Pipe 9.5 mm. Please help me out would like to know what solution to use in order to avoid rusting later on. I can use plain water for cleaning and maybe use a blower or a oven to dry it out. Please let me know how should I go about it..thnx..
usually a rust inhibitor like a light oil. WD40 is by definition a rust inhibitor. however, if you don't want to introduce an oil, as long as the steel is stored in a low humidity environment for a short period of time, you should be fine as long as the steel is completely dried.
I think it's basically the vinegar etching the rust, and the supersonic cleaner removing the weaken rust.
What would happen if you let this setup run overnight, 24 hours, several days, or a week?
I've used electrolysis many times to clean rusty tools and parts, and it works very well. I'm not sure if the two processes could be combined. Perhaps with a plastic tub to electrically isolate the ultrasound tank from the electrolysis anode?
Also, maybe next time you could set up a tank with only chemicals to see the difference the ultrasonic soundwaves make?
My ultrasonic cleaner manual instructs to not use more than 1 hour, then let it cool down before resuming any cleaning. Damage to the machine itself will or could result.
Time will destroy everything. Such is the case with this. Unless you are using more delicate frequency 80-100kHz the usual 40kHz will eventually cause everything to become pitted from the continual expolosive cavitation.
i wonder if you use the correct cleaning fluids it may work better as i suspect vinegar may enhance the rust
Nope
At what point during the ultrasonic process does the cleaner solution break down? I have used Simple Green, Dawn dish detergent, CLR, and a number of other things to clean parts.
That is a very good question I unfortunately can not answer. I've never left cleaner in my ultrasonic cleaner reservoir for very long. Usually use it once or twice, then it's drained and replaced.
can clean oxigen sensor ?
Using really strong vinegar would also help. Up to a 30% acid concentration is readily available, but the odors are very strong and you will need ventilation.
I'm going to have to find me some of this. thanks!
Vinegar can be a wicked bitch. Learn from my mistake. Never leave your tools in vinegar longer than 24 hours. I made that mistake and forgot about it for about 4 days and lost an entire metric and SAE set of Allen wrenches. The smallest ones literally turned to dust and the rest of them were a size smaller and it pulled the hardness out of em. I don't know how it pulled the hardness out off em, but they're all so soft that they round over on bolts torqued down above 20 ft lbs.
And make sure you rinse all the vinegar off and liberally apply oil to all surfaces exposed to the vinegar so it doesn't continue to work after they're dry.
You can shorten the warm up time by adding hot water to the tank instead of room temp water
Thought about that after I had mixed the vinegar in.....
You just added "baking soda" (OxiClean) to vinegar which made the foam. I will say using vinegar in the tank was impressive.
Yea, I should not have done that, but was in an experimenting mood. I'll have to do just vinegar next time. Apparently there is more concentrated vinegar solution out there I might be able to obtain to try this again.
OxiClean is *not* baking soda.
@@jungleking007Channel I tried oxi clean as well in my tank- great minds...
@@mannys9130 This is right. It's a combination of disodium carbonate and sodium percarbonate, as opposed to bicarbonate of soda. Similar chemicals, but not the same. At any rate, they may have diluted the acidity if the vinegar and deposited a salt or lye like substance on the metal. He may not want to use these two materials together again. Fortunately, no toxic fumes were emitted.
Water not hot enough.I personally boil water on the stove, then pour into machine it cuts water warming time, less time listening to the ultrasonic cleaner buzzing, cleaner i use is Zep Citric Cleaner 1/2 cup per gallon.
White vinegar is DAMNED expensive for that quantity. Have you thought about citric acid instead? I've used it on its own for derusting all sorts of stuff ... Large and small and it is VERY cheap in comparison. Vinegar on its own has never proved that effective for me so its an experiment worth doing. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner so can't do it myself.
Citric is great. I am looking for greater quantities for less dough.
@@scottcates well I bought 5 kg IIRC for next to bugger all and I've de-rusted LOADS of stuff, large and small, from RUSTED SOLID shifting wrench and old Stilson style wrench to lathe chucks, lathe gears, headstock parts, tailstock & parts, pillar drill chuck etc. and barely made a dent in that 5kg. I think maybe I've used around a kilo and a bit!
In addition, using it in a large 40 litre storage box, I just kept reusing it, simply adding more acid crystals to beef it up. After several uses, I then would filter it through standard kitchen roll to take out the crud bits, wash out the container and put it back in the container to use again.
For smaller parts like nuts and bolts and small steel items, I just use a large empty 800g mayonnaise jar with a large diameter lid almost the diameter of the jar (~65-70mm), tall enough even to do the engine studs I use for generic steel rod.
This I use indoors with the lid on loosely and the extra warmth helps. I can leave parts for days and days without harm. I have even dunked completely two very rusty but intact engineers tool clamps plus an engineer's H clamp or square clamp (disassembled) and two of which I've even polished up with red or green Scotchbite (pads and rotary) and then cold blued!
After de-rusting, I generally just use 240 grit or suitable Scotchbrite to get a decent finish and sometimes, sometimes not, use cold blue finish!
The ONLY other de-rusting method I rate because it too is VERY effective and CHEAP is electrolysis, especially for heavily corroded items, since much of the deep corrosion directly adjacent to the underlying steel gets converted back into grey iron.
I have yet to experiment with Citric acid as the electrolyte to see if that works as well.
@@boblewis5558 I will renew my search for Citric Acid crystals ASAP. Thank you for sharing your method.
If you use citric acid crystals you can make it more concentrated and no vinegar smell.
Its an old video but never knows... I use 14%acidity vinegar, if 5 is all you get where you are do not dilute it. I've found adding salt to the mix helps loosening the rust. Highest vinegar acidity plus salt is the cheap key for me. Half and hour at 60°C and its spotless. Was noted by someone else too, works better down low in the tank and mostly in the center on cheaper cleaner. I'm using a old dentist professional cleaner, small but has options of pulsating waves at different frequency helping the ultrasonic waves to cover more ground.
And be careful for your tools you clean to not touch the side, otherwise the micro rubbing will form holes and ruin your cleaner (sane for collected rust chips on the bottom)
I know you want it to just come completely clean but if you take a wire wheel to it you will be amazed how clean it comes may need a second or even third soak.
Yes a wire wheel would work, but i was trying to see if there was a "non invasive" way to remove rust. still might work if I didn't mix anything else with it... or find a higher concentrated solution.
JungleKing007 just leaving stuff in vinegar overnight helps clean off the rust. I do that often. I don’t have a parts cleaner or ultra sonic cleaner. Would love one though.
Waht size is you cleaner how many litres volume
It's a 15 liter unit.
Could you use electrolysis at the same time as ultrasound ???
I don't think so. Ultrasonic cleaner is a metal container. Electrolysis should be done in plastic to my knowledge
@@jungleking007Channel How about if you would put a slightly smaller plastic container inside the ultrasound and give it a try ??? Worth a try and maybe it would make a big difference.
Well there's a thought. I might have to try it. 👍
@@jungleking007Channel I will bet you that you will have a winner.
Degrease then electrolytic then into the ultrasonic to finish - works a charm
Lately I have been using citric acid solution for rust cleaning. Commercial rust solvents are hard to come by in my area and are crazy expensive. Citric acid powder is cheap and works like a charm. Just soak the item for about 24 hours. I wonder how that solution would act in a ultrasonic cleaner though 🤔😄
Interesting, I might have to test this out.
Fabulous icon on your account. Beaver and Bunghole... how nice LOL
My two favorites. I am going to Andersons Tool Shed to use his ultrasonic cleaner.
Looks like the protractor is at least aluminum rather than steel. The bubbles are from hydrogen gas. The aluminum is dissolving aluminum and acetate ions plus the hydrogen, which is of course flammable.
nice demo.
Oh! And those axe heads are fine. I'd just put a new edge on em, hang em on some new handles and maybe just soak em in some oil over night. The pitting and rust just adds character.
Just seen that this video is 4 years old. Lol!
Vinegar is corrosive. It didn't start to get surface rust because you didn't dry is off. It started rusting because you didn't immediately clean off the vinegar.
It works somewhat but certainly not good enough. A wire brush attachment on a grinder would have done all that in short order. Any fine crevices that might not get clean with that could be got with a small wire brush on a Dremel. I clean rusty tools all the time with that method. It is nice to see different things the Ultrasonic cleaners can do even if it isn't the best way to do the job. Thanks for the video.
What this cleaner called ?
Does it work for wives?
Just use a high concentration hydrochloric acid and dilute to 30% or more aka muriatic acid or 85% phosphoric acid undiluted and check each part every 15 min until rust is gone. After rust is gone it is important to neutralize all parts in a concentrated baking soda and water bath not only to neutralize the acid but also to prevent flash rusting after the tools are wiped dry.
Ok two tips look up a chemical called PBW for metals all so if you turn your basket 1/4 turn over the top of the sonic cleaner it will drip dry and save your countertop all so i plum my drain with a. Hose so i can flush it out after i drain it
Not sure how much the ultrasonic cleaner brings to the table - I've had really good luck just letting rusty tools soak in vinegar. Sometimes it takes a couple of days, but then it comes right off with a small brass brush.
I was trying to find out if using a vinegar bath in an ultrasonic cleaner would speed up the process. I may not have a couple days to wait. I believe it was pretty effective on some surface rust like shown on the screwdriver and some of the other lightly rusted pieces. heavier items maybe not but I couldn't find out because I decided to try something new and messed up the test(lesson learned) I'm setting up to try again...
The ultrasonic cleaner would do much much better if you place it on the concrete floor. The wooden table you’re using absorbs a lot of ultrasonic waves. I did a video showing the difference.
Good to know. Thank you
Thought never crossed my mind, I'll have to carve out some floor space, or I wonder if placing on a concrete block on a shelf would be enough. What's the link to your video?
@@jungleking007Channel here’s where I test it on a table & then I test on the floor. Big difference (24 minutes in). There is a timeline: th-cam.com/video/vSeN2lloPYU/w-d-xo.html
Sorry but this is not very impressive for the amount of effort I’ve seen here
"Always Add Acid" - Means put the water in FIRST, then ADD the acid to the water. Chemists everywhere are grabbing their finger-smacking rulers....Thanks for the video
Yep, I forgot much of what I learned in Chemistry class. I'll try to redeem myself soon.
Use my Harbor Freight cleaner with vinegar to clean my gun parts. Stainless clean in less than 20 minutes, even caked on "scrap only" cooked carbon.
I noticed you mixed vinegar and water 50/50 mix, why.?
It's works so much better at 100%, been using 100% vinegar for yrs, it has never let me down, sometimes just put your piece or pieces into the vinegar and forget about it. Check on it in a couple of days. Rinse in water dry off and clean with wire brush than light coat of oil
I'm a cheap a$$ and was trying extend the life of the bottle. hindsight says I should have used all of it straight or filled reservoir with water and put the parts in sealed bags filled with vinegar.
U look a wee bit more organised than me. Nice job building the work bench
Axe heads do much better when you lay them flat in the basket with nothing under them. The closer to the bottom the better but never without the basket.👍
Thanks for the tip! I have more axe heads I will try this on.
Electrolysis works well for rust
why cant you use normal brown vinegar or apple cider vinegar, where i live in spain its very difficult to buy white vinegar at all, could you use sodium bisulfate instead? thats just normal ph minus here for pools as its in powder granular form. Im looking to do some nikel plating and trying to find out why all these experiments ask for white vinegar. thank you
White vinegar is a acid so it eats away at what’s covering the metal then the metal at a slower rate , any acid will do so any vinegar will work just some more quickly, citric acid works as well and of coarse the item must first be cleaned of any grease as it blocks the acid from the material you want to de rust . But the vinegar must be cleaned off after using or a base chemical should be used to stop the acidic action , and coat quickly after to stop the item from rusting more …. Some use oil it’s cheap some a wax some use chemicals to coat the item so it doesn’t rust further, or coat after a fine abrasive action like maybe sanding !
It all depends on the item your working on ! Also a good way to remove rust is to Sosa blast it to do this you need to have a air compressor and purchase soda and purchase a unit to attach to the air line to mix the soda with air ( pressure ) it’s more costly but very effective.
@@Richard-lionhearted thanks very much.
I use a cat litter pan and enough 6% vinegar to cover my rusty parts. No water. Let then stew for 2 or 3 days and then scrup with a stiff brush in soapy water. All rust removed with no electricity. The ultra sonic action will not remove the rust. The vinegar's acidity is what does it. The cleaner only serves as what the nylon brush does after a soak in straight vinegar.
The parts should get a baking soda bath after a good rinse to neutralize the acid
Good to know the limitations of acetic acid.
The ultrasonic cleaner is more likely to loosen rust in hard to reach places but there’s no alternative to some hard elbow grease.
yes there is its called an ultrasonic cleaner lmao
@MatchstalkMan - Would "No Alternative to some hard leg work and just walk everywhere" be considered a correct comparison against using a vehicle? 🤔
@@shadowzedge5793 no; first of all that makes basically no sense. second; a high power to volume low frequency ultrasonic cleaner is better at removing rust than elbow grease u fool. also y not just use acid. thats better than elbow grease also. wake up clown.
Kolik máte KHz? 28 KHz je lepší než 40 nebo 60 KHz pro ostré čištění
I just got an ultrasonic cleaner, so far i have been cleaning little things.
Rust removal... i think my blasting cabinet is still easiet and faster. LOL
Great at cleaning dirty fittings and carburetors! The rust removal is just an experiment. I have some old tools I wanted to limit the use of wire brushes and blast media on. I have another couple ideas to test thanks to some commenters. When I have the chance to film, another chapter in the rust removal saga will be posted. Thanks for watching!
@@jungleking007Channel i was actually just thinking about an old pistol that got some barrel "frosting" due to corrosive ammo.
I have to wonder if it could clean it up a little...
@@justfishing6067 it might, but careful what you use as the cleaning agent, bluing, paint or other finishes may come off as well.
@@jungleking007Channel then he can re_blue it I'm sure, and I'm sure there's a self help video on how to do it online
cider vinegar works amazing without the ulrtrasound.
Just toss tools in and leave for 24-36 hours...comes out perfect. NO other work need, just rise in water and dry tools...good as new
It's true, the vinegar will do the process in a day or two, but the test here was to see if using vinegar in an ultrasonic cleaner would speed up the process of removing rust.
Not to be rude, but DOOD you have a series in the making of organizing all that stuff. The bench build proves you can do it.
I do, but life got in the way unfortunately. Priority shifted to primary job. I'm hoping to document my organization process when time and funds allow. Thanks for watching!
You can purchase WD-40 by the gallon. Try running the rusty parts through WD-40 to remove the rust.
Hello I would like to recomend a rust remedy
You will need
Muriatic acid
Water
Mix the both of them 50 50 and check your rusty item every 5 minutes at 60 pure perfect
Muric acid will cause stains on your shiny stainless steel ultrasonic cleaner
@@son-of-a-gun use it in a glass jar then submerge the glass jar in the clean water
@@bmxs1000 no! Muric acid causes stains on stainless steel parts that must be cleaned.
Muric acid dissolves the zinc component in brass (= alloy of copper +zinc)
and in certain aluminium/ zinc alloys. Muric acid is okay for removing rust from mild steel though.
For anything else muric acid can be very detrimental
@@son-of-a-gun hence why this is for rust removal and hence why the muriatic acid will never touch any stainless steel because it will be concealed in a glass jar 😉 anyway it worked great for freeing up old carbon steel pliers read what I put then there is no controversy my first comment stated rust removal
Aluminium doesn't go rusty
Brass doesn't go rusty
Stainless steel goes rusty very rarely
17:30 ... yeah, don't mix your acids and your alkalines :o)
My wife says 'Is that shit water' and I'm like technically yes
Just curious. What size is your ultrasonic cleaner?
It's a 15 Liter unit.
Try an Evapo-Rust solution. Rust removal by chelation.