On your recommendation I got myself a bottle of this stuff, I can't believe how easily it removed the copper. It was actually enjoyable. Thank you so much !
Randy, I'd would have bet the farm you would be a diehard Hoppes #9 fan. The smell of saddle leather to a horseman is as pleasant as the smell of Hoppes #9 to a rifleman.
Hoppes is what I used for years, with a lot of elbow grease and never enjoyed the smell. The product mentioned works much better and is much lest caustic to human using it. Thanks for watching.
@@TheRealGunsmith I've been using bore tech for a few years it is a good cleaner. By far the best I have used. I never could stand the smell of hoppes either.
I got into the habit of using scrubbing bubbles (chlorine free/non-chlorinated) and hot water. Started because a good friend gave me a tip it would turn the stainless steel back to white metal on my pistol. Sure enough it did what all the Hoppes couldn’t do, got the fouling stains off.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise on the subject. Most people take something simple and make it hard. It’s great that someone of your stature is putting out this content.
I use hoppe’s no 9 the same way. Works great. I shoot 20 rounds to foul then clean at 200 or 250 rounds or so. Best accuracy seams to be in that range. I have found stainless barrels clean really easy. Good rifles just don’t need that much cleaning.
I've found that scrubbing out the copper of my barrel causes my groups to be more erratic until I shoot a few shots through it. I just use basic hopes 9 and leave the copper in
I used to do the same, then I removed all the copper as shown in this vid. huge difference.. as the copper builds up the accuracy will suffer. what you are doing when you clean with hopes is soften and work up the top layer of copper, it doesn't really remove any. the first few shots will be erratic and then settle as you smooth out that top layer of copper again. however, the overall accuracy remains deteriorated until you completely remove all the copper... not claiming to be an expert, but I moved to all copper bullets and since the core is not soft like the jacket bullets more copper is deposited in the barrel. I shoot benchrest and shoot my hunting rifles alot, over the course of a couple of years and testing this I found what I state above to be true in 3-4 different guns. give it a try!! I bet it will tighten up those groups even more!
I use Hoppes but do the same procedure. Got to let the chemicals do the work for me. I dip the brush in the bottle, scrub the bore, let it sit 20 min., them run patches through till they stop coming out green.
G'day Randy, greatly appreciate these videos I've learnt alot from them. I hear alot of people advocating strongly against removing the copper build up from a rifle barrel, what is your opinion on it? In my personal experience my howa 1500 30-06 loses accuracy big time after about 50 rounds of commercial hunting ammo, after I remove the copper the accuracy returns.
Sorry, but you are listening to idiots. Clean the barrel after every 15-20 rounds to remove copper. Barrel makers are so disgusted with this misinformation and would never advocate such stupidity. You have proven, yourself, that the barrel needs cleaned of copper. Good shooting and thanks for watching.
@@TheRealGunsmith Thanks for the response, I agree and will be doing more to take care of my barrel going forward. It's strange because I've even heard that gunblue490 channel swear by it, and I often hear people say their accuracy only returns after firing a few rounds to get the copper back after cleaning. Certainly hasn't been my experience though, God bless.
i use wipe out products and have for years , the bore foam is magic , just have to wait for it to work. i dont need to count my strokes or saturate my trigger and action by not using a bore guide. enough said.
Separate the upper receiver from the lower receiver before you clean and you won't saturate your FCG. As for strokes, the magic number is only 3, according to this video, so not a lot of counting.
I have always put a wet patch thru first, let soak for long enough to have lunch, then a nylon brush 3 or 4 passes then start the patch regimen. I'll try your method next time I clean. Bore Tech is my cleaner of choice and Wipe Out is pretty good too. Barnes solution almost got me kicked out of the house and marrs the finish! Barnes cleaner is absolutely banned in the house by my better half! Thanks for verifying the product you use, now I know it's the right stuff.
That’s fine if it works for you. The level of accuracy expected and the definition of cleaning are relative to your application. The longer you leave the carbon in the barrel and chamber neck the harder it is to remove. Like not soaking pots and pans right after use. Big job and maybe damaging to thoroughly clean them. Very different if you clean every 20.
Always good to see you Randy. Thanks for sharing your experience. What's your experience on carbon fouling? Do you check with borescope? After cleaning, what oil do you recommend? I recently bought a borescope as a 270 seemed to lose accuracy...I found a fair bit of carbon build up...I assume this effects accuracy too..
Thats a good video Randy a lot of guys claim to never use a bore brush cause it will damage the bore.But one question Randy say you have a semi auto is it alright to run the cleaning threw from the muzzle thats what I do it dosent seem to hurt anything its about all you can do unless you tear the gun all apart
Do you find it necessary to completely remove all the copper with each cleaning? I have a rifle or 2 that seem like they shoot better if the barrel is somewhat fouled with copper.
Copper and carbon overlap each batch and forth. If it is a stainless steel barrel I will use CLR with 3 patches and then flush it out with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and then attack the copper. I’ll then use Patch Out with Accelerator to go after the copper. I may have to go back and forth attacking carbon and copper which is why you need a borescope. No reason not to have one nowadays as Teslong borescopes are affordable and great. Then, I’ll use KG-2 bore paste, 10 strokes on a patch to get rid of the really hard carbon near the throat, flush with IPA, and check with a bore scope to ensure it is clean. Lastly, wet patch with Lock-eze (colloidal graphite) and dry patch a few minutes later. You really need to use a bore scope to ensure your barrel is actually clean. Several times I’ve put a borescope down a barrel after it was ‘cleaned’ and it was very much not cleaned and striped to bare metal.
I just cleaned my brand new barrel and wish I never did, I guess my rod was slightly bent and it scrubbed a multiple times on my rod taking some paint off showing raw stainless. Im worried now, and my dumb a** even went into from the crown side. I feel like I screwed if.
I think you use the brush, patch, mop in the wrong order. I use the bore mop first then wait a while then use the brush then the patches. Just my 2 cents
Well, I've cleaned hundreds of thousands of barrels in 54 years, so when you've matched or passed that, then let me know I am wrong. Which I am not, results speak for themselves and proved by bore scoping. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Randy for the info , I shoot moly coated bullets in some rifles. Do you have a process for cleaning those barrels a. Would be greatly appreciated ! Thanks again !…….
Randy, great video. Nice simple process. No hocus-pocus magic of 3 brush runs per round or any of that. I'm going to give that product a try. Thanks for the info. I would like to know why you don't use a bore-guide? Is that rubbish that was designed to sell bore-guides? Thanks again and have a great 2023. Cheers Jeff
@@TheRealGunsmith That comment is yet another shining example proving you don’t have a clue what you’re talking about. As if the $65 Chinese airsoft scope on your rifle wasn’t enough of an indication.
Nylon or bronze brushes won't harm the crown. You should run a few patches with a jag from the breech end, then use a brush saturated with solvent to scrub out the bedded in copper. Rinse and repeat until clean.
@gun fisher wouldn't matter if you did. This idea that barrels are that sensitive is laughable. You'd have to be really careless and aggressive to destroy the crown just by leaving the brush exit the muzzle completely. Or your cleaning equipment is that much harder than the steel of the barrel and it's covered in the most abrasive material you can get. Never ceases to amaze me.
After I clean the barrel the first few shots are really inconsistent. Is that normal? If so I guess after cleaning I would need to fire a few wasted shots?
Some barrels need fouled a couple of rounds to shoot a group. They are not "wasted" if they get the barrel to a good shooting group. Though at the price of components these days, I understand the "waste". Thanks for watching and Happy New Year!
Really enjoy Randy’s knowledge and expertise but after barrel break in, there is no way I’m cleaning my barrel after 15 rounds. If a $800 dollar barrel needs cleaning after 15 rounds, I think I’ll pass. Again, Randy posses a wealth of knowledge and enjoy videos. Absolutely no disrespect.
I agree, I go at least 400, his cleaning method is from the bench rest mindset, yes you will have better accuracy, but if you let the copper build up it will stay predictably accurate for several hundred rounds. If you want to split hairs, use his method.
@@6creeder688 He didnt, specifically said only use copper remover. Those few passes with that wont do anything to the hard carbon in the first couple inches of the throat
So what did you use before you discovered this wonder solvent? I’ve tried about everything that’s hit the market over the last 50+ years. Some work, most don’t, them that do… some work better. I’ve found due diligence and elbow grease a great combination along with a concoction that actually removes fouling. Done on a regular basis, it does take long to accomplish the task.
Elbow grease and Hoppes [ugh!], which has been a thing of the past for years. As mentioned, the product I use creates a chemical reaction that dissolves both carbon and copper.
Nope. I want solvent in the bore, not the bore guide and have never found bore guides needed. Also, too many reports by clients of solvent running off of bore guide and getting where it shouldn't be. Thanks for watching.
The latest trend seems to be that people don't clean barrels at all or maybe once a year. They say the bullet cleans the barrel out every time it passes through. They seem to think that cleaning after every outing is unnecessary. Can you comment on that?
Utter stupidity! All barrels need cleaned. Without cleaning copper fouling and carbon fouling ruin the barrel. Not one reputable, and/or match barrel maker ever recommends not cleaning the barrel. Thanks for watching.
I love your videos, Randy. But clean every 15 rounds? I bore clean every ~40 and still maintain sub-MOA groups in all my rifles. The key is to not use Barnes or Swift all-copper bullets.
After fire-lapping and Dyna bore-coating, and using powder with a de-coppering agent, you can clean your prairie dog gun when you get back to the hotel. Just do it before having supper and drinking beer. 😂🤠
I just saw this, and checked both for Randy's Custom Rifles and The Real Gunsmith, and both are working. It may have been a temporary glitch. Thanks, though, for commenting.
Sir what you just described will not get the hard carbon out of the barrel or the carbon ring in the throat and if you don't bore scope the barrel how do you know it clean just because the patch come out clean doesn't mean the barrel is clean it just means the patch didn't pick up anything and the is probably still hard carbon in the barrel so without bore scoping the barrel you can't know if it's clean
exactly, probably has 6" of carbon starting from the chamber with copper underneath and the only blue on the patches is from the copper that usually collects toward the muzzle end
BS Justin. I know what I am doing, the barrels are examined carefully and my method gets the barrel clean, end to end, of both copper and carbon. Perhaps your method doesn't. Mine does or I wouldn't do it.
Carbon is removed first then the solvent goes on to dissolve the copper. It is all taken care of in the same process. Carbon goes first. Thanks for watching.
Rest in pace, my grandpa used to say............for a short trip any mule is good enough and the devil knows more because his old, not because is the devil............life experience counts.
What are your thoughts on milsurp? Mine seem to be more accurate with a half clean snd a warm barrel. My modern deer rifle needs to be clean and cold to shoot dead on
My first, second, third rifles with one hole groups all had Shilen barrels - 7mm RemMag, 300 RUM, and 280 Remington. I got a second 280 Remington built in time for this past hunting season. It also has a Shilen barrel (Defiance anti action, McMillan game scout stock, Jewel trigger). It's not doing quite as well as the first one but getting there
@@TheRealGunsmith To obviate potential damage in the chamber/neck area is what I hear. As you know, many barrel makers, rifle builders, competition shooters do recommend using a bore guide to keep the cleaning rod centered as it enters the bore. Solvent still gets excellent spread in the bore, at least for me, when I'm cleaning. Only reason I ever started using a bore guide was I kept hearing and reading the benchrest, F-class, barrel makers, rifle builders recommend them. I didn't use one for years. I never noticed any change in the rifle's performance with or w/o one, but I take my time when cleaning. I've also seen videos where some remove the jag or brush after passing the direction of bullet travel. They won't pull the rod back through the muzzle.
The solvent removes BOTH carbon and copper. Bore Tech Copper Eliminator dissolves both. It doesn't take a lot of elbow grease at all. How do I know? By checking the thousands of barrels cleaned over decades by bore scoping and finding no carbon or copper residue. Thanks for watching.
I don't get solvent in the trigger. Haven't ever. I want my solvent in the bore, not the bore guide. It means I can't be sloppy at the job [but no one should be, even if they chose to use a bore guide]. I've been doing this for decades, and not once had an issue with the solvent getting in the trigger mechanism. Details. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for that JC . I've watched interviews with some of the most decorated persision shooters in the country,on this subject, and most of them say that they only clean their barrel if and when their groups start to open up, others say somewhere between 400 and 600 shots. And I've also heard some say never. And again others say depends on the barrel. I've also heard it said, and read that carbon kills accuracy but copper improves it by filling in the microscopic imperfections in the barrel, making a tighter smoother surface. Randy's really got me scratching my head on this one.
@@roddawe2505 That`s the thing there are so many professional opinions out there. I clean mine every time I use them but I still always ponder the fact that a friend of mine years ago who lived way back in the mountains that all of his rifles were very accurate but I noticed that they were not kept cleaned so I asked him about that and he said that`s why they are accurate.But I also kept in mind that they rarely target shoot in that neck of the woods and when they did go on a hunt he would only carry 3 rnds with him he said that`s all he needed with the exception of his squirrel rifle.
@@gunfisher4661 Dad always said you bring home a gun from a hunt or range trip it gets cleaned before it goes in the cabinet. When hunting even if I dont fire it gets a quick clean and oil that way you dont get rust from moisture sitting on it. When hunting black powder or even triple seven in my inline when I get home they get cleaned. Side cockers get fired off in the woods before heading home, inlines rifles the breech plug is removed and the saboted slug and powder are pushed out the back. Save the slug and dump the powder. Clean and prepare for the next day.
Good video. One thing guys forget when using a copper solvent is they use brass attachments on their cleaning rods. You need to use stainless steel attachments.
@@davidsalsedo There are two kinds of stainless steel, ferritic and austenitic. The latter are generally softer due to the fcc crystal structure that makes them more ductile. You will never get a clean patch using a brass brush with a copper solvent. Phosphor bronze is a combination of copper, tin, and phosphorus. Nylon brush on stainless steel is what I prefer. Randy what is your opinion?
@mark mcg Never use stainless steel, they ruin barrels, period. You use a jag for the patch, and bronze brushes are the preferred choice. Hundreds of thousands over 54+ years cleaned with them, with excellent results. Thanks for watching.
Hunting rifle ya that’s a little different but it does need cleaning you will find out when u get a carbon ring and it over pressures and starts popping primers
On your recommendation I got myself a bottle of this stuff, I can't believe how easily it removed the copper. It was actually enjoyable. Thank you so much !
Glad I could help! Thanks for reporting and watching. Good shooting.
I'm hanging on all of Mr Randy's priceless videos!
Randy, I'd would have bet the farm you would be a diehard Hoppes #9 fan. The smell of saddle leather to a horseman is as pleasant as the smell of Hoppes #9 to a rifleman.
Hoppes 9 is junk and won't clean anything. Only reason a lot of people use it is because of availability.
Hoppes is what I used for years, with a lot of elbow grease and never enjoyed the smell. The product mentioned works much better and is much lest caustic to human using it.
Thanks for watching.
@@TheRealGunsmith I've been using bore tech for a few years it is a good cleaner. By far the best I have used. I never could stand the smell of hoppes either.
I got into the habit of using scrubbing bubbles (chlorine free/non-chlorinated) and hot water. Started because a good friend gave me a tip it would turn the stainless steel back to white metal on my pistol. Sure enough it did what all the Hoppes couldn’t do, got the fouling stains off.
@@308dad8 I have used clr on stainless it works pretty good. Removes carbon without discoloration.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise on the subject. Most people take something simple and make it hard. It’s great that someone of your stature is putting out this content.
I use hoppe’s no 9 the same way. Works great. I shoot 20 rounds to foul then clean at 200 or 250 rounds or so. Best accuracy seams to be in that range. I have found stainless barrels clean really easy. Good rifles just don’t need that much cleaning.
Nice and simple, as always, a breath of fresh air, many thanks Randy.
Many thanks!
Another good and very informative show.
You’ve made me a die hard fan! Thank you for your knowledge and professionalism
I've found that scrubbing out the copper of my barrel causes my groups to be more erratic until I shoot a few shots through it. I just use basic hopes 9 and leave the copper in
I used to do the same, then I removed all the copper as shown in this vid. huge difference.. as the copper builds up the accuracy will suffer. what you are doing when you clean with hopes is soften and work up the top layer of copper, it doesn't really remove any. the first few shots will be erratic and then settle as you smooth out that top layer of copper again. however, the overall accuracy remains deteriorated until you completely remove all the copper... not claiming to be an expert, but I moved to all copper bullets and since the core is not soft like the jacket bullets more copper is deposited in the barrel. I shoot benchrest and shoot my hunting rifles alot, over the course of a couple of years and testing this I found what I state above to be true in 3-4 different guns. give it a try!! I bet it will tighten up those groups even more!
I use Hoppes but do the same procedure. Got to let the chemicals do the work for me. I dip the brush in the bottle, scrub the bore, let it sit 20 min., them run patches through till they stop coming out green.
I used Hoppes years ago. Not as good as the product mentioned and the smell of Hoppes, horrible! And more elbow grease needed.
Thanks for watching.
G'day Randy, greatly appreciate these videos I've learnt alot from them.
I hear alot of people advocating strongly against removing the copper build up from a rifle barrel, what is your opinion on it? In my personal experience my howa 1500 30-06 loses accuracy big time after about 50 rounds of commercial hunting ammo, after I remove the copper the accuracy returns.
Sorry, but you are listening to idiots. Clean the barrel after every 15-20 rounds to remove copper. Barrel makers are so disgusted with this misinformation and would never advocate such stupidity.
You have proven, yourself, that the barrel needs cleaned of copper.
Good shooting and thanks for watching.
@@TheRealGunsmith Thanks for the response, I agree and will be doing more to take care of my barrel going forward.
It's strange because I've even heard that gunblue490 channel swear by it, and I often hear people say their accuracy only returns after firing a few rounds to get the copper back after cleaning.
Certainly hasn't been my experience though,
God bless.
My gunsmith recommended after cleaning the barrel using sweets 7.62, run a patch with alcohol to remove any residual solvent.
Great video! Thanks for the great content!
Thanks Randy
Just got myself a bottle. Gonna give it a shot, I’ve read all good things about it. Thanks
i use wipe out products and have for years , the bore foam is magic , just have to wait for it to work. i dont need to count my strokes or saturate my trigger and action by not using a bore guide. enough said.
Separate the upper receiver from the lower receiver before you clean and you won't saturate your FCG. As for strokes, the magic number is only 3, according to this video, so not a lot of counting.
Thanks for sharing. I use another brand of cleaning solvents but used the bore mop like you stated and cut my cleaning time by 50%.
I have always put a wet patch thru first, let soak for long enough to have lunch, then a nylon brush 3 or 4 passes then start the patch regimen. I'll try your method next time I clean.
Bore Tech is my cleaner of choice and Wipe Out is pretty good too.
Barnes solution almost got me kicked out of the house and marrs the finish!
Barnes cleaner is absolutely banned in the house by my better half!
Thanks for verifying the product you use, now I know it's the right stuff.
I enjoy your videos nothing like knowledge and common sense. Keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
Does anyone know if Randy is using a steel brush or a nylon? What type brush do you guys use?
NEVER use a steel brush, it ruins a barrel right off with scratches, even if not readily visible,. Bronze or nylon only!
Thanks for watching.
Very informative, thanks for sharing your thoughts and insights!
Did I hear that right that you clean your rifles after every 15 rounds?
Maybe 20 rnds
Not more.
That's wild.
I don't clean until accuracy drops off.
That's about 200 rounds in my 243 and 80 rounds in my WinMag.
That’s fine if it works for you.
The level of accuracy expected and the definition of cleaning are relative to your application. The longer you leave the carbon in the barrel and chamber neck the harder it is to remove. Like not soaking pots and pans right after use. Big job and maybe damaging to thoroughly clean them. Very different if you clean every 20.
Yes, you did hear correctly.
Thanks for watching.
I love these videos. Keep em coming Boss!
Thanks! Will do!
Informative video. Thanks
Always good to see you Randy.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
What's your experience on carbon fouling?
Do you check with borescope?
After cleaning, what oil do you recommend?
I recently bought a borescope as a 270 seemed to lose accuracy...I found a fair bit of carbon build up...I assume this effects accuracy too..
I use no oil and I use a bore scope if I think it is necessary. Hawkeye.
Thanks for watching.
Thats a good video Randy a lot of guys claim to never use a bore brush cause it will damage the bore.But one question Randy say you have a semi auto is it alright to run the cleaning threw from the muzzle thats what I do it dosent seem to hurt anything its about all you can do unless you tear the gun all apart
Always use bronze brushes and guide the rod from the muzzle by hand.
Thanks for watching.
Do you find it necessary to completely remove all the copper with each cleaning? I have a rifle or 2 that seem like they shoot better if the barrel is somewhat fouled with copper.
All barrels are different. I remove all of the copper.
Thanks for watching.
Copper and carbon overlap each batch and forth.
If it is a stainless steel barrel I will use CLR with 3 patches and then flush it out with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and then attack the copper. I’ll then use Patch Out with Accelerator to go after the copper. I may have to go back and forth attacking carbon and copper which is why you need a borescope. No reason not to have one nowadays as Teslong borescopes are affordable and great. Then, I’ll use KG-2 bore paste, 10 strokes on a patch to get rid of the really hard carbon near the throat, flush with IPA, and check with a bore scope to ensure it is clean. Lastly, wet patch with Lock-eze (colloidal graphite) and dry patch a few minutes later.
You really need to use a bore scope to ensure your barrel is actually clean. Several times I’ve put a borescope down a barrel after it was ‘cleaned’ and it was very much not cleaned and striped to bare metal.
Thanks Randy I’ve went to the same stuff wouldn’t ever go back to the others I use .
I just cleaned my brand new barrel and wish I never did, I guess my rod was slightly bent and it scrubbed a multiple times on my rod taking some paint off showing raw stainless. Im worried now, and my dumb a** even went into from the crown side. I feel like I screwed if.
Thanks, Randy! I wonder if that solvent will also work on nickel? I have not been cleaning my barrels very often at all!
It is a bore solvent, cleans carbon and copper, brass, etc. whether in chrome-moly, stainless, nickels steel, etc. Thanks for watching.
I think you use the brush, patch, mop in the wrong order. I use the bore mop first then wait a while then use the brush then the patches. Just my 2 cents
Well, I've cleaned hundreds of thousands of barrels in 54 years, so when you've matched or passed that, then let me know I am wrong. Which I am not, results speak for themselves and proved by bore scoping.
Thanks for watching.
@@TheRealGunsmith 200 000 / 54 = 3 700... So you clean 10 barrels per day. Impressive.
Anything different if you only shoot lead bullets, no copper bullets?
Use a solvent specifically for leading.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this Randy. I'll be shopping for some of this copper remover. One thing, do you not use a bore guide?
No, I don't, as I want the solvent in the bore, not the bore guide.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks Randy for the info , I shoot moly coated bullets in some rifles. Do you have a process for cleaning those barrels a. Would be greatly appreciated ! Thanks again !…….
Use Bore Tech Eliminator on a brush, 5 strokes. Then wet a patch and let the barrel soak 15 min. Repeat 3-4 times.
Thanks for watching.
@@TheRealGunsmith Thanks, you are the best !
What kind of borescope do you use?
Don’t look like he does if he did he would find it’s not even close to being clean 😮
@@6creeder688 my thoughts exactly. I always thought my barrels where clean, until I got a borescope.
@@jasoneverett7343 it will definitely tell you what you need to know
Randy, great video. Nice simple process. No hocus-pocus magic of 3 brush runs per round or any of that. I'm going to give that product a try. Thanks for the info.
I would like to know why you don't use a bore-guide? Is that rubbish that was designed to sell bore-guides?
Thanks again and have a great 2023.
Cheers Jeff
I want my solvent in the bore, not the bore guide. I've never felt the need to use one, creates more of a mess, IMHO.
Thanks for watching.
@@TheRealGunsmith thank you, Randy. That's good common sense. We shooters tend to over-complicate our sport.
@@TheRealGunsmith That comment is yet another shining example proving you don’t have a clue what you’re talking about.
As if the $65 Chinese airsoft scope on your rifle wasn’t enough of an indication.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 Wow...what a douche!!!
Love these vdo
My grandad would set aside a whole day to clean his gun barrel and his barrels were smoother than a baby's bottom.
Thanks, Randy for sharing your knowledge! What type of material brush are you using? Thanks!
A bronze brush, of course.
Thanks for watching.
Is it ok to pull your brush back over the crown when pulling it back through the barrel?
Nylon or bronze brushes won't harm the crown. You should run a few patches with a jag from the breech end, then use a brush saturated with solvent to scrub out the bedded in copper. Rinse and repeat until clean.
Randy did but some of the others I`ve seen drop the brush before pulling the rod back.
@gun fisher wouldn't matter if you did. This idea that barrels are that sensitive is laughable. You'd have to be really careless and aggressive to destroy the crown just by leaving the brush exit the muzzle completely. Or your cleaning equipment is that much harder than the steel of the barrel and it's covered in the most abrasive material you can get. Never ceases to amaze me.
Yes, it is fine.Won't harm it at all.
Thanks for watching.
After I clean the barrel the first few shots are really inconsistent. Is that normal? If so I guess after cleaning I would need to fire a few wasted shots?
Some barrels need fouled a couple of rounds to shoot a group. They are not "wasted" if they get the barrel to a good shooting group. Though at the price of components these days, I understand the "waste".
Thanks for watching and Happy New Year!
Thank you
Do I need to use separate products to remove the carbon, or does the copper eliminator do it all?
Copper eliminator does it all.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Really enjoy Randy’s knowledge and expertise but after barrel break in, there is no way I’m cleaning my barrel after 15 rounds. If a $800 dollar barrel needs cleaning after 15 rounds, I think I’ll pass. Again, Randy posses a wealth of knowledge and enjoy videos. Absolutely no disrespect.
I agree, I go at least 400, his cleaning method is from the bench rest mindset, yes you will have better accuracy, but if you let the copper build up it will stay predictably accurate for several hundred rounds. If you want to split hairs, use his method.
You don't remove carbon?
Absolutely you do bore tech carbon remover will help but if it’s really bad jb bore paste works wonders
@@6creeder688 He didnt, specifically said only use copper remover. Those few passes with that wont do anything to the hard carbon in the first couple inches of the throat
My process removes both carbon and copper. Verified by using bore scope.
I see thanks for the response
Any recommendations for leading?
Use the process and product I mention and it takes care of any lead.
Thanks for watching.
Bronze or nylon brushes? Or does it matter?
Use either, it really won't matter, just NEVER use steel brushes.
Thanks for watching.
So what did you use before you discovered this wonder solvent? I’ve tried about everything that’s hit the market over the last 50+ years. Some work, most don’t, them that do… some work better. I’ve found due diligence and elbow grease a great combination along with a concoction that actually removes fouling. Done on a regular basis, it does take long to accomplish the task.
Iosso and Free All spray penetrant are the best thing Ive found to remove carbon fouling. Copper is easy to get out carbon is the harder thing
Elbow grease and Hoppes [ugh!], which has been a thing of the past for years. As mentioned, the product I use creates a chemical reaction that dissolves both carbon and copper.
Thanks for your help.
How many rounds could i get away with in 17hmr between thatsort of clean.?
I am not sure since I don't shoot one. Follow this procedure. Inspect often, your barrel will tell you, if you watch well.
Thanks for watching.
7.62 sweets solvent is good too
No bore guide?
Nope. I want solvent in the bore, not the bore guide and have never found bore guides needed. Also, too many reports by clients of solvent running off of bore guide and getting where it shouldn't be.
Thanks for watching.
I'd be interested to know what you do about carbon build up.
That is the question.
Lead is a doozy too!!
The process I use cleans both carbon and copper.
Thanks for watching.
The latest trend seems to be that people don't clean barrels at all or maybe once a year. They say the bullet cleans the barrel out every time it passes through. They seem to think that cleaning after every outing is unnecessary. Can you comment on that?
Utter stupidity! All barrels need cleaned. Without cleaning copper fouling and carbon fouling ruin the barrel. Not one reputable, and/or match barrel maker ever recommends not cleaning the barrel.
Thanks for watching.
I love your videos, Randy. But clean every 15 rounds? I bore clean every ~40 and still maintain sub-MOA groups in all my rifles. The key is to not use Barnes or Swift all-copper bullets.
I agree, 15 sounds exreme. I've shot well over 100 rounds and no problem.
After fire-lapping and Dyna bore-coating, and using powder with a de-coppering agent, you can clean your prairie dog gun when you get back to the hotel. Just do it before having supper and drinking beer. 😂🤠
I tried to go to your website, but it says it’s not working.
I just saw this, and checked both for Randy's Custom Rifles and The Real Gunsmith, and both are working. It may have been a temporary glitch.
Thanks, though, for commenting.
Bore tech cu is beautiful. Removed copper like nothing and with no effort.
Sir what you just described will not get the hard carbon out of the barrel or the carbon ring in the throat and if you don't bore scope the barrel how do you know it clean just because the patch come out clean doesn't mean the barrel is clean it just means the patch didn't pick up anything and the is probably still hard carbon in the barrel so without bore scoping the barrel you can't know if it's clean
exactly, probably has 6" of carbon starting from the chamber with copper underneath and the only blue on the patches is from the copper that usually collects toward the muzzle end
My cleaning process has always gotten the barrel clean of both carbon and copper.
Thanks for watching.
BS Justin. I know what I am doing, the barrels are examined carefully and my method gets the barrel clean, end to end, of both copper and carbon. Perhaps your method doesn't. Mine does or I wouldn't do it.
Is carbon buildup something I should be worried about and if so will your process prevent this?
Carbon is removed first then the solvent goes on to dissolve the copper. It is all taken care of in the same process. Carbon goes first.
Thanks for watching.
Rest in pace, my grandpa used to say............for a short trip any mule is good enough and the devil knows more because his old, not because is the devil............life experience counts.
What are your thoughts on milsurp? Mine seem to be more accurate with a half clean snd a warm barrel. My modern deer rifle needs to be clean and cold to shoot dead on
Not my cup of tea. Work what your rifle likes, though a "half clean" barrel is NOT something I recommend.
Thanks for watching.
What's your opinion on Shilen barrels?
I've used many over 54 years but Hart makes the best barrels of any manufacturer. Hands down.
Thanks for watching.
My first, second, third rifles with one hole groups all had Shilen barrels - 7mm RemMag, 300 RUM, and 280 Remington. I got a second 280 Remington built in time for this past hunting season. It also has a Shilen barrel (Defiance anti action, McMillan game scout stock, Jewel trigger). It's not doing quite as well as the first one but getting there
Do you have any experience with Krieger barrels?
Interesting - no bore guide
😂
Why? I want the solvent in the bore, not the bore guide.
@@TheRealGunsmith To obviate potential damage in the chamber/neck area is what I hear. As you know, many barrel makers, rifle builders, competition shooters do recommend using a bore guide to keep the cleaning rod centered as it enters the bore. Solvent still gets excellent spread in the bore, at least for me, when I'm cleaning. Only reason I ever started using a bore guide was I kept hearing and reading the benchrest, F-class, barrel makers, rifle builders recommend them. I didn't use one for years. I never noticed any change in the rifle's performance with or w/o one, but I take my time when cleaning. I've also seen videos where some remove the jag or brush after passing the direction of bullet travel. They won't pull the rod back through the muzzle.
Coated rod
@@ronkay1573 But the jags aren't coated and they lead the rod. Always use a bore guide, especially in a custom built rifle with a quality barrel
what about CARBON build up? How about bore scoping the bore? I believe you that your removing Copper ……but I would love to see the bore.
The solvent removes BOTH carbon and copper. Bore Tech Copper Eliminator dissolves both. It doesn't take a lot of elbow grease at all. How do I know? By checking the thousands of barrels cleaned over decades by bore scoping and finding no carbon or copper residue.
Thanks for watching.
Randy- why no bore guide?? That product is definitely making its way to the trigger group. That’s not good
I don't get solvent in the trigger. Haven't ever. I want my solvent in the bore, not the bore guide. It means I can't be sloppy at the job [but no one should be, even if they chose to use a bore guide]. I've been doing this for decades, and not once had an issue with the solvent getting in the trigger mechanism. Details.
Thanks for watching.
Not sure why anyone wouldn't use a bore guide. So much cleaner and so easy to use.
No bore guide ???
No. I want the solvent in the bore, not the bore guide.
Thanks for watching.
@@TheRealGunsmith And in the trigger group, magazine, etc...
What about removing lead fowling ?
Lead fouling goes first, and my method takes it out with no issues.
Thanks for watching.
I would say he doesn't need carbon remover because he cleans every 15 rounds. Carbon doesn't have time to build up.
Try a bore scope after 1 round
My process removes carbon and copper.
Thanks for watching.
I don’t remove copper being I shoot long range. I just clean the carbon out…
Thanks for that JC . I've watched interviews with some of the most decorated persision shooters in the country,on this subject, and most of them say that they only clean their barrel if and when their groups start to open up, others say somewhere between 400 and 600 shots. And I've also heard some say never. And again others say depends on the barrel. I've also heard it said, and read that carbon kills accuracy but copper improves it by filling in the microscopic imperfections in the barrel, making a tighter smoother surface. Randy's really got me scratching my head on this one.
@@roddawe2505 That`s the thing there are so many professional opinions out there. I clean mine every time I use them but I still always ponder the fact that a friend of mine years ago who lived way back in the mountains that all of his rifles were very accurate but I noticed that they were not kept cleaned so I asked him about that and he said that`s why they are accurate.But I also kept in mind that they rarely target shoot in that neck of the woods and when they did go on a hunt he would only carry 3 rnds with him he said that`s all he needed with the exception of his squirrel rifle.
@@gunfisher4661 Dad always said you bring home a gun from a hunt or range trip it gets cleaned before it goes in the cabinet. When hunting even if I dont fire it gets a quick clean and oil that way you dont get rust from moisture sitting on it. When hunting black powder or even triple seven in my inline when I get home they get cleaned. Side cockers get fired off in the woods before heading home, inlines rifles the breech plug is removed and the saboted slug and powder are pushed out the back. Save the slug and dump the powder. Clean and prepare for the next day.
Good video. One thing guys forget when using a copper solvent is they use brass attachments on their cleaning rods. You need to use stainless steel attachments.
SS is as hard as the barrel!
Great way to undo the hard work well cut lands and grooves of a barrel worth cleaning.
Nope
@@davidsalsedo There are two kinds of stainless steel, ferritic and austenitic. The latter are generally softer due to the fcc crystal structure that makes them more ductile.
You will never get a clean patch using a brass brush with a copper solvent. Phosphor bronze is a combination of copper, tin, and phosphorus. Nylon brush on stainless steel is what I prefer.
Randy what is your opinion?
@mark mcg Never use stainless steel, they ruin barrels, period. You use a jag for the patch, and bronze brushes are the preferred choice. Hundreds of thousands over 54+ years cleaned with them, with excellent results.
Thanks for watching.
Lol just put it in the dishwasher
i like to use harsh words to clean my barrel
I always figured the next round fired cleaned mine!
I have never cleaned a rifle barrel and never will. A gun will only shoot as good as the last shot fired thru it.
That`s the way the old back mountain people used to say it and most of them had some pretty accurate rifles, been there and have seen it.
Hunting rifle ya that’s a little different but it does need cleaning you will find out when u get a carbon ring and it over pressures and starts popping primers
So all y’all remove the copper from the barrel then foul the barrel with copper to get accuracy back, makes perfect sense