This man has the experience, common sense and delivery that we are so sorely missing in every aspect of society. Plain speech with wisdom. He cuts to the chase with the unvarnished truth.
He’s literally a know nothing Fudd. Mineral oil is not proper lubricant for high heat or high pressure applications. It’s gets goopy and gathers fouling. Using mineral oil on a self loading rifle is about as intelligent as using Elmers Glue.
Time to go back and crawl under a rock. This is 2025. Teach yourself what's right and what's not so much, in the 22nd century. This isn't 1968 anymore. Stop being a CAVE MAN!!
After watching your early video from a few years ago about the proper cleaning and lubrication of firearms, I switched to your method and have never had any issues with my carry gun over the years since. The gun I carry every day and have for years is a Kimber TLE II 1911 in .45 acp. I have thousands of rounds through it and only clean it when I go to the range to shoot it. Because I carry this 1911 every day, I do wipe it down with a lightly oiled cotton flannel rag I keep in a Ziplock bag just to wipe off lint and run a dry patch through the barrel to remove any lint that gets in there. I do this once every couple weeks and have never had any issues with rust corrosion or malfunctions. Your commonsense approach to firearms is the most valuable on TH-cam. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
I started using a small piece of close shorn sheepskin, the wool holds grease/lubricant really well but it doesn't tear like old cloth will, and the 'leather' side stays ungreasy. I think I've had the same piece for maybe 5 years now.
I used to sit close as my dad cleaned my 22LR when I was a kid. Great smell and a wonderful time with my dad. He's gone now but the smell of Hoppes brings him back in some small way.
Relatable Sentement! Although, These Days And Age, With All The Chemicals Used In Manufacturing In Everything, Especially Our Homes, Work Environments, And Transportation! Such Is Litterally Killing Us Faster Than Anyother Time, Via Toxicity And Human Genetics, Breaking Down Our Systems Of Surviving And Thriving! Just Look At The Rise In The Medical Industries Profits, Patented Cancerz, Most Everyone Around Us, Has Some Sort Of Alergies, Conditions, Illness, Sickness, Disease, Etc! The Only Way To Stop Or At Least Reduce Mass Depopulation, Is To Attempt To Stop Buying, All The Toxic Environmentally Unsound Plastic Junk, We Can Live Much Longer, Without From: Aerosols, Spray Bottles, Sented Lotions, Candles, Cleaners, Sented Electrial Plug-Ins, Etc! Try The Oldschool Safer Things Like Baking Soda, Natural Soaps, Verified Safe & Natural Oils, Etc! More People Have Been Eliminated By Chemicals And Toxicology, Than By Guns, By Far! GOD Bless America, One Nation Under GOD, In GOD We Trust, Pa-Pow, Amen! 😎 🙉🙈🙊 🇺🇸
An instructor said with it comes to lube / oils, "wipe all parts down thoroughly with a lightly oiled cotton rag”. He also states with it comes to oiling your gun, "less is best, it will not attract an excessive amount of dust / dirt". He continues to goon about the action / moving parts. He goes into it deeper, but this fits your video. Very good info, and video. Thanks for sharing.
I remember cleaning my M60 with hot water and detergent back in the 80s. The water in our barracks was heated by oil burners, and was so hot the hose at the wash tub had to have a rag wrapped around it so you wouldn't scald your hands. The detergent would clean all the gunk, and the water would flush it out but dry super fast so there was no rust issues. My 60 never failed an inspection, not even the dreaded IG. inspection.
Just picked up a mini on friday. Gonna try her out on wednesday. I got my fingers crossed hoping she runs good. Havent had great luck with ruger bit ive wanted a mini forever. I hope it works out.
I love the knowledge you share with us, straight and to the point and not selling us on the all latest marketing gimmicky gun cleaning products . Thank you so much
I have used my technique since 1958 and have had no problems, ever. After a shooting session I run a lightly oiled patch down the barrel to remove loose carbon, followed by a couple of dry patches then one very lightly oiled patch. For the action, a Q-tip with oil on it to scrub all the dirt out, followed by a clean Q-tip with a couple of drops of RemOil or #9 on all the contact parts and call it good. Has worked for me for decades. I liked this video...very simple and to the point.
I had an issue with a Ruger .22 pistol jamming after a few rounds. Used this minimalist cleaning/lubrication method, problem solved! Merry Christmas sir!
Good information. I remember in basic training when in classes to strip and clean the M16 there was a guy next to me who was using lots of oil on the gun. The instructor came by to inspect the guns and chewed the kid out. He said "You've got enough oil on that for five rifles!".
Thanks for the video. These companies have made a lot of money off of people's ignorance. I remember my grandfather cleaning his guns with mineral spirits and lubing them lightly with mineral oil. He was a decorated WW2 veteran that served in France.
After your older videos on cleaning, I changed to mineral spirits and mineral oil, and got a quart (all I could find) of LSA for my semi-autos. On rare, high friction areas I'll use a miniscule dab of Mobile 1 synthetic grease. Now the only 'gun' product I have is a little Hoppes #9. Reminds me of good times with my Father. Stay well Sir...and a Merry Christmas to you and Family.
Sir you are spot on! I have a gun shop in Louisiana, home of humidity and salt mud in the marshes we hunt ducks and geese in. I have a good customer who dropped off an SP10 Remington semi auto 10 gauge. Well I love when they try to fix it with oil!!! I started the disassembly process and it was so full of oil I had to get newspaper and set the barrel, receiver, and stand up the butt stock on to absorb the oil coming out of the gun. Geez it was a lot. However none of that oil fixed the bad magazine follower or the disconnecter problem he had. First thought by some is if oil is good, more is better. I appreciate you, you look like my brother in laws dad and sound just like him, he passed away several years ago. I sent this video to my brother in law to listen to your voice, he loved it. Thank you for enlightening gun owners in their endeavors in the field and in the shop! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Problem with alot of people is, if they have a issue, they never break down the gun and give it a good cleaning. They just spray more lube hoping it will fix the problem.
Ballistol although not mentioned by name is a German-developed anti-corrosive and rustproofing agent that can be used on metal and wood. It was originally developed in the early 1900s. You do pay more for it. In my experience you get what you pay for. It's worth the money. I use the same rag technique that you use with mineral oil. Works beautifully. I keep my Ballistol rag in a metal container instead of a plastic bag. I'm not refuting anything you say and actually agree with you 100%. But a good product is a good product.
When I was a teen, my first job was as a bicycle shop guy, learning the skills. A key lesson, then and now, was that "too much oil is worse than not enough." While perhaps not exactly true, the point was and is that too much oil gathers dirt, and the oily dirt becomes crud. A little bit of oil will go a long way.
Disassembling a rear hub and cleaning the grub out of the plastic spacers in a cassette or seeing how much dirt will wear away axle threading when it attaches to oil is an eye opener in your early 20s, lol. It's good to see things like that firsthand, and early on in life👍🏻.
Looking at the walls behind you, and wondering. I bet there is a funny story about a husband, and a wife, and the interior decorating. Your gun advise is always sensible and practical, thanks for your time.
I use Marvel, mixed with mineral spirits and a bit of Isopropyl alcohol, so my cleaner can lift salty fingerprints and then evaporate, leaving a very thin coat of Marvel. The cleaning products for budding violinists are a problem, too. Music stores sell cleaner/polish with alcohol and oil. The alcohol strips a bit of the shellac based finish with every application, and the oil makes rosin stick to the surface under the bow. You have to take your fiddle back to the store to be cleaned and restored when you use those products. A bit of mineral spirits to clean and then apply paste wax, and your violin is protected and looks great. George Grotz, in his books said that "If you can make it for a dime and sell it for a dollar, there will be a lot of liars in the business." PS, I mix the Lubriplate with an oil thickener (Lucas, STP, etc.) so it can be applied easily from a squeeze bottle. One purchase lasts for lifetimes, so you can share a batch with all your shooting buddies.
i watched one of your video's back in the day where you suggested mineral spirits for cleaning, one of the best suggestions ever. The best thing I like is that it doesn't remove the copper that has burnished into the bore, I actually saw my groups shrink a measurable amount by leaving the pits and scratches filled on my Savage 12FV in 6.5 Creedmoor and my cold bore shots being on target with my Tikka T3x in 270. As for the lubing I use a little Ballistol or CLP on a rag including the firing pin and my rifles feel and shoot better than ever. The only time I clean back to steel is once my accuracy seems to drop off, I use JB Bore Paste to take it back to bare steel and start over, it's only been once in the last 10 years with my 12FV and in the meantime the mineral spirits do a fantastic job.
Totally agree. Going back to raw steel is also very bad in car engines, steamers, or similar is usually a very bad idea. The carbonization alone helps to lubricate in "some" areas. Obviously if it is blocking actions it is bad, but for cars, some carbon is a good thing.
THANKYOU!! I realize that over lubrication of my firearms could cause major personal injuries. So now I will use much less lubricant by just wiping down with a lightly oiled flannel cloth. Mineral oil is far less expensive than special gun oils. So thank you, have a Merry Christmas and a Health, happy New year.
Glad I found your channel awhile back, I bought my dream Colt 1911 from 1978 Mfg, beautiful condition but it was dry all over, I took your advice with the mineral oil and cloth and worked it over and my Colt came back to gleaming life, put new walnut grips on it also and I now have a pistol to be proud of, thank you for your old fashioned do it the right right knowledge.
I must agree the Kaiser’s oil is extremely expensive, however it does not hurt wood or rubber or synthetic grips and stocks. A little bit goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. Thank you for your time and work in making these videos. They are very informative, and I do learn a lot from you.
Amen brother, Merry Christmas! In the pharmacy brands of mineral oil, they put an expiration date on the bottle, mineral oil does not go rancid. Mineral oil is the same base product as butcher block or wooden cutting board oil. Great common sense pro tips, but I do like the smell of Hoppe's in the morning...
Good program with basic common sense directions. I just subscribed to your channel and will be looking for all you gun related cleaning and gun maintenance videos. Thanks!
For ones you dont use often there are also those sleeves that go over them in the safe. Like an oiled wool sock. I have one but I forget what they are called.
As someone who grew up around guns but was still a little green with rifles, unfortunately my grandfather passed before I learned more, I was lubricating my weapons maybe a little too much. Not to the point of damage or blockage, but if a rag is all that's needed, I'm glad to learn and adjust.
WISH I heard this 50 years ago! 👍 We cleaned our M16a1 rifles in the shower with dish soap (in garrison) and lightly oiled. Then turned into the unit ammorer for inspection and storage. They ALWAYS passed! I just ordered a tube of Lubriplate 130-aa. I am sharing this on Gab. :)
I was taught by my father, who was a Korean war Air Force small arms instructor, to clean firearms with Ivory Soap in hot water. You are the only other person I've ever heard saying the same thing! Good info, great video.
@@badmonks Now days soap and water are absolutely a No Go in the military. But AGI teaches using Simple Green, and I use it sometimes, if appropriate. Especially for old, greasy, crudded up guns; and especially if I'm going to boil them after to convert rust.
Powder rifles such as muzzleloaders and flintlocks need to be disassembled and throughly cleaned after firing bc of powder/patch fouling. Also, if hunting/shooting in the rain/snow guns should be dried thoroughly and i also apply a very light coat of oil on a rag after removing barrel/bolt/action if gun got wet.
Great video. A few years ago I became a fan of Balistol. After trying a few other cleaners I find out that Balistol removes more residue even after patches of other cleaners are no longer coming out dirty... As far as lubricating I like to put white lithium grease on certain moving parts and for oil I normally use automatic transmission fluid.
That's great to hear! I always wash my black powder Colt revolver directly under the tap, then I scrub it with a soft toothbrush and some 50% water / 50% Ballistol "moose milk", clean the bore with patches and moose milk, then finish it by wiping it down with a kitchen paper towel spritzed with pure Ballistol. My more recent toys get wiped down with a Ballistol-spritzed cloth, patches (first oiled then dry), and that's it. Still going strong and rust-free after many years.
Started using mineral spirits and mineral oil a long time ago when i saw your first video talking about using that instead of the Hoppe's (which I love the smell of). I even used those in refurbishing a couple of old reloading presses. Thanks for all your content over the years. Yours has been the most beneficial channel on firearms, to me. God bless.
Another quality video! I’ve been watching you for many years now and I must say, one of my favorite firearms related TH-camr. I can spend hours watching and rewatching the way you explain things. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Wishing you and your family a very merry Christmas from the Big Island of Hawaii. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
As a machinist and a gunsmith, metal to metal always results in wear. To prevent excessive wear, lubrication is recommended. The trick is to know how much lubrication is required. First you have to determine what needs lubrication. The worst oil to use is gun oil. It has lacquer in it. It has solvents in it. It quickly evaporates. It has a very low viscosity. Here is a rule to remember. Linear movement, requires a viscous silicone paste. Rotary movement, requires several drops of any medium viscosity oil. When applying the silicone paste, several small drops are required. Cycling the movement will disperse the lubricant to where it is needed. Too much lubricant attracts moisture and dirt. That is the enemy of every firearm.
I oiled my ar15 with Lucas oil stabilizer. In 5 degree temps it's completely disabled my ar lol I love that in hot weather though. M1 garand gets lithium grease.
Seems like long time since seen of your videos. Thanks for posting this one . I love seeing your post . Your previous one on lubricant stuck with me. May God bless you and your family. Have a wonderful Christmas!
I put Ballistol on almost everything! I use it sparingly applied to patch cloth so a little 4oz jug has lasted me years! Plus I like its scent. Still use Mineral Oil for just about everything else.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience ... gun maintenance can be a confusing topic with all of the misinformation out there. While you were presenting your information, I couldn't help but think about the topic of lubricants and automobiles. In that area, the WRONG lubricants are often used where they cause reactions with materials and subsequent damage. The information for proper use and the proper choice and application of lubricants has always been available ... those doing the work simply need to care enough to do the requisite research. I am one of your subscribers now ... please keep your videos coming.
I have been using an engine treatment for the last 20 years. Duralube, like Slick 50. When I get powder residue, it's just that. Powdery. It does not seem to sludge up.
Issues with other products is lack of rust inhibitors, excessive lower-temp burnoff or running oil. Solvents that will eat at rust based finishes, like bluing. Also even solvents like Hoppes that is mildly corrosive and needs to be fully removed when done. If not an appropriate engineer who knows the differences... I'd stick to proven firearms products. This is mostly the advice gunsmiths stick to on oils at least, so the cheapest one on hand is the go to. This is often Break Free CLP, because it's made in such quantities for the military that's it's far cheaper for its performance even for civilians. It's not just where burnt powder collects that's the place to worry about, but the oil from other areas that got hotter having all the oil running out or evaporating off action parts.
Worked for a large gun range, I worked for a large training company, I have burned out and replaced 7 AR15 barrels, one .223AI precision barrel, broken every part in a Glock except for the barrel itself and the tabs the slide rides on, reloaded 10,000 rounds latest year alone. I have never seen a gun stop running or get damaged for too much lubrication.
ARs and Glocks may run. How does more dirt migrate behind the extractor, the firing pin channel? How does more dirt accumulate in the trigger group?The manufacturer is wrong, the trained armorers are wrong, Glock telling people where to lubricate for decades...how could they know more? A-mazing.
@@onpsxmember Have you ever considered my good sir that maybe when freakish things happen too a large company, maybe the time a bad part slipped through due too a lazy employee for instance or maybe the time Mr Elmer Fudd didn’t check headspace before firing his proud new Ruger MK77 and it blew up in his face.. then maybe the large company would want too blame it on someone else? Just a thought. Because a properly built firearm can fire under water. I have done it. A little oil in the breech shouldn’t harm anything.
Amen Brother…I was fortunate enough to have my Uncle, who fought in WWII teach me everything you so eloquently and sensibly talk about when I was a kid. God Bless
I love my Ballistol. I'm from Germany, of course. Used other machinery oil on my Mosin, and the inner bore started rusting. Since Ballistol no problems ever. But I totally agree with the rest. As much oil as needed, as less oil as possible. Hope this was correct English.
Ballistol always makes me reflex cough. I'm not a fan of the smell. I use RemOil as my light oil and Hoppe's as my std solvent. I'm not a fan of CLPs (cleaning, lubricating products). In my experience, they don't do both well enough.
A little bit of Ballistol goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. It will not hurt wood, rubber, or synthetic grips and stocks. I use it, and I love the smell.😊
I still use Hoppes #9 as I like the smell, and it brings back good memories. One thing he missed is we can use 0000 steel wool with the Hoppes to deal with any rust or gunk on the outside of the barrel. I then use a cotton cloth to remove any Hoppes. After, I like to use the Remington Oil wipes that look like baby wipes. These wipes help prevent over oiling. I also use a thin layer of synthetic grease on any parts that move and touch.
Years ago you got me hooked on minimizing lube and using mineral oil, great advice. Gotta say, after a busy range day it’s not so much like wiping a greasy wrench off as it is cleaning out the exhaust pipes on a Kenworth.
I'm an old timer. I love a comeupance from a genuine old timer, makes me feel in my 20s again! Been using less oil, and will use less now. Valueing realization.
Lubriplate…I haven’t hard that in many decades….I was a Marine Aviation Ordnanceman and that’s all we used on the 20mm MK4 gunpod for the F4 Phantom. Lubriplate was the only authorized grease for that gun. A bit of over kill on small arms though.
Great information...I use Green Clean diluted 5:1. Same principle super cheap and long lasting. Once my cleaning kit lube is gone I'll jump to the mineral oil. My handguns per the manual recommend 6 drops of oil period.
I’m kind of new to the rim fire addiction. I’ve shot them all my shooting life but always thought of the 22 as a sub caliber. Now I’m changing my opinion of that and have been so fortunate to see some of your older (three years removed) videos presentations. I was so sad to hear you speak of your medical issues when you informed your followers of your prostate cancer. So after seeing that video, I was afraid you were no more. I’m so so glad to find your recent postings. May God keep you with us for many more episodes of you sharing the knowledge you have acquired. Glad to hear you my friend.
Haha: I always get laughed at for saying this, so now it's your turn 😁 As a mechanic, I always get a kick out of people waxing poetic about their favorite snake oil. Guns are a pretty simple machine - like anything else, you look for wear and lubricate those areas.
I have the advantage of a maintenance shop. For steel / alum guns - I just wash them with the parts washer / brake clean - swab the barrel - blow them dry and spray them with silicone. Wipe down and swab. For wood / composite stock guns - I remove the stock - do the same thing and then put the stock back on. Generally only 2 -3 screws. No chems on wood/composite. The parts washer cleans all the soot out of the trigger and bcg's really well I can have pretty much any gun factory clean in about 5 minutes.
My favorite lesson from him is about using copper jackets and not to be worried about cleaning out the copper as much as I first presumed. This type of knowledge and experience is essential.
In more than 50 years of shooting, I have seen loaded pistols and revolvers practically drowning in oil. The usual result is dud cartridges if they have been in the gun for a long time. Some European ammunition has primer and bullet sealing, but don't count on it. I still have a lot of PMP .303 Mk.7 ball with corrosive chlorate primers and an aqueous solution of Young's .303 neutralises the salts. This is very scarce now, so hot water funneled down the bore works, followed by thorough drying and regular cleaning. For that, I mix up a batch of Ed's Red (paraffin, mineral turpentine, ATF and acetone), at minimal cost. A blessed Christmas and a happy shooting New Year!
Earlier videos covering this topic made me realize I was in the over-lubrication bunch. Something I had been doing for years and never really thought about until it was brought up here.
For lubricating metal to metal gun parts, I use Sta-Lube moly/graphite engine assembly lube that is formulated to stay on engine parts without running off. It’s perfect for gun applications as well and has been used by engine builders for decades.
Thank you for this straight forward advise. We were issued M16s in the 80's that had thousands and thousands of rounds fired through them, so the tolerances were fairly loose. We always kept them and ran them pretty dry. In the event that we were firing more than a couple hundred rounds, we'd add some lube to the bolt/carrier interface areas and that was pretty much it. There were hardly any issues. Now if you have a new gas operated rifle then I would lube slightly during the break in period for sure. During heavy use, there are cases of baked on carbon around the bolt (where it fits near the gas tube of AR rifles) and piston areas (of AK and SKS variants) that needs a bit more than a casual wipe (IMO). I like CLP (my military experience stays with me).
Thank you, GunBlue, for another great video. I pretty much switched to your cleaning and not lubricating method after watching one of your earlier videos on the subject. Prior to that, I had been using a Birchwood Casey or Hoppes silicone cloth for my final wipe down. After watching the video, I went to the dry goods store and bought a yard of cotton flannel, then cut out several 16” square rags. I added a little mineral oil and started used those as wipe down cloths. What I’ve found is that after a few uses, they start to shed lint, especially on my pistols that have fairly aggressive checkering on the frame and grip panels. Leaves them kinda messy! I don’t see that problem with the commercial clothes. Do they use a different type of fabric? Thanks again for sharing your wealth of information in a clear, no nonsense manner. Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Don’t forget, as a United States Marine, “every clime and place” it makes a difference when it comes to lubricant of any kind in firearms . In arctic regions, heavy lubricants on parts can make things worse. They will freeze. It’s also a good idea to leave the weapon outside in the temperatures it’s going to be used in. Condensation happens when going from cold to hot. Excessive lube is not good in any climate.
You mean warm to cold climate can cause condensation. We always left our hunting rifles locked in the cab of our truck over night before going on our morning hunt. It was the same temperature as outside and our scopes wouldn't fog up either.
glad your still making video's , Good videos . And I used to use gun oil on my semi auto But I found it would freeze up in cold weather here in Canada . Then I used a compressor oil that was laying around and WOW never ever froze the action again .
I have started using Mineral oil ever since I saw your first video on it. Made so much since. I keep two cloth rags coated with it in a Ziploc bag at my bench. Thank so much for the great advice.
I use Ballistol because I run a mixture of surplus/corrosive/questionable ammo at times. A light coat has survived my wife and I sharing a rifle and shooting over 800 rounds in a day, at a match. I also like that you can over do it without it harming the wood like oils do.
You couldn't be more accurate in your comments, sir. I have seen some men I'd served with lubricate the bore of the barrels after cleaning, thinking it would enhance the longevity of said bore. I would try educating them about the dangers of that sort of practice, but most would continue doing what they were already doing. I never witnessed a catastrophic failure, but did see many malfunctions with their particular rifles. Great information. Thank you!
Very informative, It's amazing how companies and some high profile you tubers market gun cleaners and oils to be the must have when as you stated, keeping a firearm clean can be fairly basic and do the job just as well for a fraction of the cost. Thank you
I use a very thin coat of automatic transmission fluid on all moving parts inside and out, and also to clean the bore, works great! God bless you, and great video!
Solid advice. The harshest solvent i ever use these days is a tank of good old boiling dihydrogen monoxide. Thatll strip out corrosive salts, black powder residue, grease, grime, dirt and even convert rust back into bluing. I dont however agree that guns DON'T need lubrication. They do. They are mechanical devices with metal on metal contact points. They just need far less than most people think. Drops, not drizzles and only on wear points.
@@eb1684 I got that from Mark Novak. When I say I clean things and bathe in Dihydrogen monoxide I get really weird looks and LMAO for a while until I inform them that it's water. LOL
I love the smell of Hoppes in the morning. Thanks for the vid. Good to know. Accuracy Systems out of Colorado recommends brake parts cleaner when breaking in their barrels. Comes in a high pressure can so you can blast away. Now I am going to try mineral spirits
As a professional gunsmith, I have to find products available in quantity that are affordable and work well. It's also important that these products be as non-toxic as possible since I come into contact with them almost daily. Here's what I use in the shop: general cleaning/degreasing - Zep Orange Citrus degreaser, bore cleaner - Bore Tech Eliminator, lube grease - Lubriplate SFL-0, gun oil - Lubriplate FMO oil. I use grease for most general lubrication since it stays put and does not migrate. Stainless actions do need lubrication as stainless will gall on itself. AR platforms need to have visible lubrication on the BCG. There are some specialty products that work very well on things like hard carbon deposits found on muzzle devices and bolt carriers. For these I use my ultrasonic cleaner or for parts that cannot go in the ultrasonic cleaner, Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover and a brush.
i took your suggestions on my 1911 and wow i couldn't even shoot 2 in a row with out jamming so i took it back apart and lubed the crap out of it and wow just like butter pop pop pop like it should
Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones and please have a safe and enjoyable New Year's celebration. Years ago I started using mineral spirits and oil. For nostalgia and because I, too, like the smell I keep a small bottle of Hoppes open when I clean my firearms. At my age there is little harm that the chemical odor will add to my condition and it brings back fond memories of buddies and family sitting around sharing our love of firearms. God bless!
Great to see you back with more content. Much appreciated. I’d love to hear you elaborate about the 22 hornet, I believe you could shed much light on such a classic cartridge. Thank you again.
Some of the mainstream oils, Hoppes and the like, will react with the polymers in guns of recent manufacture as well. I do like the Kaiser's goop for leather.
Problem with mineral oil is it will not likely prevent rust and you will need to wipe down gun every month even if you do not use it. I use Renaissance wax to prevent rust and also preserves wood for long term storage.
I use Renaissance Wax on places I won't get to often, like on the frame of revolvers that the stocks cover. Or on portions of bolt action rifles hidden by the stock. External only, of course.
One of the best protection against water is lanolin . A wax that is extracted from lamb wool . Lanolin is what natural water proofer for lamb . Wiping down steel and stock with oily lanolin cloth will protect them from humidity and rust . Instead of lubriplate grease I have several tube of superlube .
@@sofjanmustopoh7232Rust was not a problem when natural grease and fat lubes wee used .Use T C bore butter on steel to prevent rust much better than petroleum based oils.
Correct on rust inhibitors of course. On Ren wax... I wouldn't use that on anything without wood unless it's going to sit a long time. Unless your storage conditions are really so bad you need wax. If so, I'd consider Ballistol or Boeing T9 Shield, as they spray or wipe on, and leave a thin wax when they dry. Ren wax is usually tacky and only applies where you wipe or scrub it on... I use Ren wax on old stuff, especially like old milsurps I won't shoot any time soon. Especially where wood and metal touch, and inside the stock in general.
OIL on a gun will flow down into the wood stocks over time when stored upright. Then it soaks into the wood and turns it black and rotten. Sometimes you see it in very old guns but still excess oil can be bad news setting around. I use some Lubriplate I got for free on my Garand. I think USGI specified 130A and the 130AA is a bit thinner grease but it works. I got a beautiful walnut stock I would have liked over the one I have, on my M1 carbine, but I found it had turned all black behind the recoil lug and deteriorated the wood from oil.
Thank you for sharing wisdom. It can be in short supply amid the latest marketing. While by no means everything new is bad, as you so ably demonstrate, a message that everything that went before can't be as good or better is only half the story (corrosive propellant and boiling soap possibly excepted). I always enjoy your channel. 62, shooting for 50 years in Britain, and still learning something new or rediscovering lost truth. Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year as we say on our side of the Pond.
This man has the experience, common sense and delivery that we are so sorely missing in every aspect of society. Plain speech with wisdom. He cuts to the chase with the unvarnished truth.
Very refreshing.
WELL SPOKEN!!! GOD Bless you! Yes, GunBlue is the Wise, Grand Fatherly type person.
we have chosen to listen to sociopaths instead of experts.
Amen to that.
He’s literally a know nothing Fudd.
Mineral oil is not proper lubricant for high heat or high pressure applications. It’s gets goopy and gathers fouling.
Using mineral oil on a self loading rifle is about as intelligent as using Elmers Glue.
This is refreshing! I get so tired of TH-cam channels promoting the latest marketing gimmick. Truth and common sense are rare these days. Thank you.
Really.... ever use Mineral Spirits? and Lacquer Thinner? Pfffft.....
Save yourself dude....
word
... most of them are "sponsored" gimmick salespersons and as long as you see thru the hype you're good to go
Time to go back and crawl under a rock. This is 2025. Teach yourself what's right and what's not so much, in the 22nd century. This isn't 1968 anymore. Stop being a CAVE MAN!!
@@additudeobxpaint thinner🤔
🚫Lacquer thinner
great to see a realistic and common sense approach to firearms instructions. Not catering to sponsors with dramatic showmanship.
This man embodies New Hampshire, sensible, straightforward and knows how to get the job done! Great video and info
Your clear, honest and common sense communication skills are outstanding. You are a fantastic teacher!
I agree!
After watching your early video from a few years ago about the proper cleaning and lubrication of firearms, I switched to your method and have never had any issues with my carry gun over the years since. The gun I carry every day and have for years is a Kimber TLE II 1911 in .45 acp. I have thousands of rounds through it and only clean it when I go to the range to shoot it. Because I carry this 1911 every day, I do wipe it down with a lightly oiled cotton flannel rag I keep in a Ziplock bag just to wipe off lint and run a dry patch through the barrel to remove any lint that gets in there. I do this once every couple weeks and have never had any issues with rust corrosion or malfunctions. Your commonsense approach to firearms is the most valuable on TH-cam. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
I started using a small piece of close shorn sheepskin, the wool holds grease/lubricant really well but it doesn't tear like old cloth will, and the 'leather' side stays ungreasy. I think I've had the same piece for maybe 5 years now.
Thank you for your wisdom! I trust and love the lessons you pass down to the younger generations
Sir, Don't ever allow yourself to think that you are not doing great things for the World at Large.
Great information, as always!
Best video on gun cleaning ive ever seen.
I guess I'll keep paying over the odds just for the smell of Hoppes! So much nostalgia, so many childhood associations, so much comforting ritual!
It’s the smell of being 12 years old. It takes me straight back to the 60’s every time.
I used to sit close as my dad cleaned my 22LR when I was a kid. Great smell and a wonderful time with my dad. He's gone now but the smell of Hoppes brings him back in some small way.
Don’t get hopped on your skin ……liver damage
Me, too… gun cleaning in the smell of hopped… goes together!
Relatable Sentement! Although, These Days And Age, With All The Chemicals Used In Manufacturing In Everything, Especially Our Homes, Work Environments, And Transportation! Such Is Litterally Killing Us Faster Than Anyother Time, Via Toxicity And Human Genetics, Breaking Down Our Systems Of Surviving And Thriving! Just Look At The Rise In The Medical Industries Profits, Patented Cancerz, Most Everyone Around Us, Has Some Sort Of Alergies, Conditions, Illness, Sickness, Disease, Etc! The Only Way To Stop Or At Least Reduce Mass Depopulation, Is To Attempt To Stop Buying, All The Toxic Environmentally Unsound Plastic Junk, We Can Live Much Longer, Without From: Aerosols, Spray Bottles, Sented Lotions, Candles, Cleaners, Sented Electrial Plug-Ins, Etc! Try The Oldschool Safer Things Like Baking Soda, Natural Soaps, Verified Safe & Natural Oils, Etc!
More People Have Been Eliminated By Chemicals And Toxicology, Than By Guns, By Far!
GOD Bless America,
One Nation Under GOD,
In GOD We Trust,
Pa-Pow, Amen!
😎 🙉🙈🙊 🇺🇸
An instructor said with it comes to lube / oils, "wipe all parts down thoroughly with a lightly oiled cotton rag”. He also states with it comes to oiling your gun, "less is best, it will not attract an excessive amount of dust / dirt". He continues to goon about the action / moving parts. He goes into it deeper, but this fits your video. Very good info, and video. Thanks for sharing.
The only problem with this video, is that not enough people will see it. 🙂
Great video.
who cares... their lose
Send the video link to all your friends both new and old gun owners. I'm sure they will appreciate the info.
Share it.
Love your videos! Right or wrong my favorite cleaner, lubricant, protective on wood and steel is Ballistol. Works on everything.
@dougrogers835 👍👊
But the Kaiser's Army used it!
Ballistol smells awful 😣
Ballistol is great stuff. Does stink though.
@@davek5027 it's not a cologne like Hoppes 9. But all these seem to do the job. Like GunBlue490 says, we're ultimately cleaning steel.
Long after you've gone home to be with the Lord you'll still be helping young men learn traditional values and skills. And I appreciate that.
What are you saying , he has plenty of years left in him!
@sheepsfoot2 of course he does. But nobody outlines the internet
I remember cleaning my M60 with hot water and detergent back in the 80s. The water in our barracks was heated by oil burners, and was so hot the hose at the wash tub had to have a rag wrapped around it so you wouldn't scald your hands. The detergent would clean all the gunk, and the water would flush it out but dry super fast so there was no rust issues.
My 60 never failed an inspection, not even the dreaded IG. inspection.
Just picked up a mini on friday. Gonna try her out on wednesday. I got my fingers crossed hoping she runs good. Havent had great luck with ruger bit ive wanted a mini forever. I hope it works out.
I love the knowledge you share with us, straight and to the point and not selling us on the all latest marketing gimmicky gun cleaning products . Thank you so much
Best gun channel on TH-cam. Thank you for sharing your lifetime of knowledge with us. Have a merry Christmas my friend.
I have used my technique since 1958 and have had no problems, ever. After a shooting session I run a lightly oiled patch down the barrel to remove loose carbon, followed by a couple of dry patches then one very lightly oiled patch. For the action, a Q-tip with oil on it to scrub all the dirt out, followed by a clean Q-tip with a couple of drops of RemOil or #9 on all the contact parts and call it good. Has worked for me for decades. I liked this video...very simple and to the point.
About the same for me but since 1977!
I had an issue with a Ruger .22 pistol jamming after a few rounds. Used this minimalist cleaning/lubrication method, problem solved! Merry Christmas sir!
A fouled magazine can cause just as much of a problem as the gun itself. Clean and dry mags have helped my mark series rugers a ton
@@tracyhaynes5404 I had the same problem with a 10/22. Cleaning the buildup on the feed lips of the magazine took care of it. 👍
Love my mark 2
Good information. I remember in basic training when in classes to strip and clean the M16 there was a guy next to me who was using lots of oil on the gun. The instructor came by to inspect the guns and chewed the kid out. He said "You've got enough oil on that for five rifles!".
Good advice. I was wondering about long term storage of guns and how often, if any, one would need to pull them out for a wipe down.
Thanks for the video. These companies have made a lot of money off of people's ignorance. I remember my grandfather cleaning his guns with mineral spirits and lubing them lightly with mineral oil. He was a decorated WW2 veteran that served in France.
It was such a pleasure to have met you at the auto parts store . That made my Christmas. Thank you , May God Bless you and your family.
He was buying products to clean his camera gear. ;)
After your older videos on cleaning, I changed to mineral spirits and mineral oil, and got a quart (all I could find) of LSA for my semi-autos. On rare, high friction areas I'll use a miniscule dab of Mobile 1 synthetic grease. Now the only 'gun' product I have is a little Hoppes #9. Reminds me of good times with my Father.
Stay well Sir...and a Merry Christmas to you and Family.
And the aroma of Hoppes!
☃️🎅🎄🇺🇸
Sir you are spot on!
I have a gun shop in Louisiana, home of humidity and salt mud in the marshes we hunt ducks and geese in. I have a good customer who dropped off an SP10 Remington semi auto 10 gauge. Well I love when they try to fix it with oil!!! I started the disassembly process and it was so full of oil I had to get newspaper and set the barrel, receiver, and stand up the butt stock on to absorb the oil coming out of the gun. Geez it was a lot. However none of that oil fixed the bad magazine follower or the disconnecter problem he had. First thought by some is if oil is good, more is better.
I appreciate you, you look like my brother in laws dad and sound just like him, he passed away several years ago. I sent this video to my brother in law to listen to your voice, he loved it.
Thank you for enlightening gun owners in their endeavors in the field and in the shop!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Enjoyed reading your post. Merry Christmas 🎅
Problem with alot of people is, if they have a issue, they never break down the gun and give it a good cleaning.
They just spray more lube hoping it will fix the problem.
Ballistol although not mentioned by name is a German-developed anti-corrosive and rustproofing agent that can be used on metal and wood. It was originally developed in the early 1900s. You do pay more for it. In my experience you get what you pay for. It's worth the money. I use the same rag technique that you use with mineral oil. Works beautifully. I keep my Ballistol rag in a metal container instead of a plastic bag. I'm not refuting anything you say and actually agree with you 100%. But a good product is a good product.
I like really Ballistol, but its not my primary cleaner. Good call on keeping your rag in a metal container.
When I was a teen, my first job was as a bicycle shop guy, learning the skills. A key lesson, then and now, was that "too much oil is worse than not enough." While perhaps not exactly true, the point was and is that too much oil gathers dirt, and the oily dirt becomes crud. A little bit of oil will go a long way.
Use electric contact cleaner does not collect dust.
Disassembling a rear hub and cleaning the grub out of the plastic spacers in a cassette or seeing how much dirt will wear away axle threading when it attaches to oil is an eye opener in your early 20s, lol. It's good to see things like that firsthand, and early on in life👍🏻.
@@RobertBonner-vz1bb It's also not oil, and ultra expensive for what you're using it for.
Looking at the walls behind you, and wondering. I bet there is a funny story about a husband, and a wife, and the interior decorating. Your gun advise is always sensible and practical, thanks for your time.
Just a utility sheetrock wall in an unfinished basement. 😊
I use Marvel, mixed with mineral spirits and a bit of Isopropyl alcohol, so my cleaner can lift salty fingerprints and then evaporate, leaving a very thin coat of Marvel. The cleaning products for budding violinists are a problem, too. Music stores sell cleaner/polish with alcohol and oil. The alcohol strips a bit of the shellac based finish with every application, and the oil makes rosin stick to the surface under the bow. You have to take your fiddle back to the store to be cleaned and restored when you use those products. A bit of mineral spirits to clean and then apply paste wax, and your violin is protected and looks great. George Grotz, in his books said that "If you can make it for a dime and sell it for a dollar, there will be a lot of liars in the business." PS, I mix the Lubriplate with an oil thickener (Lucas, STP, etc.) so it can be applied easily from a squeeze bottle. One purchase lasts for lifetimes, so you can share a batch with all your shooting buddies.
i watched one of your video's back in the day where you suggested mineral spirits for cleaning, one of the best suggestions ever. The best thing I like is that it doesn't remove the copper that has burnished into the bore, I actually saw my groups shrink a measurable amount by leaving the pits and scratches filled on my Savage 12FV in 6.5 Creedmoor and my cold bore shots being on target with my Tikka T3x in 270. As for the lubing I use a little Ballistol or CLP on a rag including the firing pin and my rifles feel and shoot better than ever. The only time I clean back to steel is once my accuracy seems to drop off, I use JB Bore Paste to take it back to bare steel and start over, it's only been once in the last 10 years with my 12FV and in the meantime the mineral spirits do a fantastic job.
Totally agree. Going back to raw steel is also very bad in car engines, steamers, or similar is usually a very bad idea. The carbonization alone helps to lubricate in "some" areas. Obviously if it is blocking actions it is bad, but for cars, some carbon is a good thing.
Early 70s, my best friend lived next store his dad was a gun smith and we helped clean firearms he only had paint thinner.
Paint thinner is HIGHLY FLAMABLE ask any firefighters MUCH more flammable than kerosine or diesel fuel.
I am a 30 + year firefighters and learned this in my first year.
Isn’t diesel not extremely flammable, at least compared to gasoline
@@Mark-uh4zd. No it’s not as flammable . That’s the big plus with modern jet engines in aircraft.
@@drizlerThere are a few diesel-powered piston engined aircraft, but most turbine engines burn kerosene-based fuels.
THANKYOU!! I realize that over lubrication of my firearms could cause major personal injuries. So now I will use much less lubricant by just wiping down with a lightly oiled flannel cloth. Mineral oil is far less expensive than special gun oils. So thank you, have a Merry Christmas and a Health, happy New year.
Glad I found your channel awhile back, I bought my dream Colt 1911 from 1978 Mfg, beautiful condition but it was dry all over, I took your advice with the mineral oil and cloth and worked it over and my Colt came back to gleaming life, put new walnut grips on it also and I now have a pistol to be proud of, thank you for your old fashioned do it the right right knowledge.
I must agree the Kaiser’s oil is extremely expensive, however it does not hurt wood or rubber or synthetic grips and stocks. A little bit goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. Thank you for your time and work in making these videos. They are very informative, and I do learn a lot from you.
Just found and subscribed to your channel. Greetings from Tuftonboro, NH.
Greetings neighbor!
Amen brother, Merry Christmas! In the pharmacy brands of mineral oil, they put an expiration date on the bottle, mineral oil does not go rancid. Mineral oil is the same base product as butcher block or wooden cutting board oil. Great common sense pro tips, but I do like the smell of Hoppe's in the morning...
Good program with basic common sense directions. I just subscribed to your channel and will be looking for all you gun related cleaning and gun maintenance videos. Thanks!
For ones you dont use often there are also those sleeves that go over them in the safe. Like an oiled wool sock. I have one but I forget what they are called.
Gun sock
@@williamgaines9784 Hey I was close!
As someone who grew up around guns but was still a little green with rifles, unfortunately my grandfather passed before I learned more, I was lubricating my weapons maybe a little too much. Not to the point of damage or blockage, but if a rag is all that's needed, I'm glad to learn and adjust.
WISH I heard this 50 years ago! 👍
We cleaned our M16a1 rifles in the shower with dish soap (in garrison) and lightly oiled. Then turned into the unit ammorer for inspection and storage. They ALWAYS passed!
I just ordered a tube of Lubriplate 130-aa.
I am sharing this on Gab. :)
You're never too old to learn.
I've been pinging 22's since 1970
Paul Harrell had a video showing how he cleaned his pistol with soap and water too.
Afair he cleaned his A1 with the A2 front based on the old M16 field manual.
I was taught by my father, who was a Korean war Air Force small arms instructor, to clean firearms with Ivory Soap in hot water. You are the only other person I've ever heard saying the same thing! Good info, great video.
Rust??
Paul Harrell used soap and water, with other things, too. It was taught that way in Basic Training.
@@badmonks Now days soap and water are absolutely a No Go in the military.
But AGI teaches using Simple Green, and I use it sometimes, if appropriate. Especially for old, greasy, crudded up guns; and especially if I'm going to boil them after to convert rust.
Powder rifles such as muzzleloaders and flintlocks need to be disassembled and throughly cleaned after firing bc of powder/patch fouling. Also, if hunting/shooting in the rain/snow guns should be dried thoroughly and i also apply a very light coat of oil on a rag after removing barrel/bolt/action if gun got wet.
@@Mark-s7w1ithat's why you dry and wipe with the lightly oiled cloth
Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Great video. A few years ago I became a fan of Balistol. After trying a few other cleaners I find out that Balistol removes more residue even after patches of other cleaners are no longer coming out dirty... As far as lubricating I like to put white lithium grease on certain moving parts and for oil I normally use automatic transmission fluid.
That's great to hear! I always wash my black powder Colt revolver directly under the tap, then I scrub it with a soft toothbrush and some 50% water / 50% Ballistol "moose milk", clean the bore with patches and moose milk, then finish it by wiping it down with a kitchen paper towel spritzed with pure Ballistol.
My more recent toys get wiped down with a Ballistol-spritzed cloth, patches (first oiled then dry), and that's it. Still going strong and rust-free after many years.
Started using mineral spirits and mineral oil a long time ago when i saw your first video talking about using that instead of the Hoppe's (which I love the smell of). I even used those in refurbishing a couple of old reloading presses.
Thanks for all your content over the years. Yours has been the most beneficial channel on firearms, to me. God bless.
Great inisghts here, especially on the dry rot risk with a wood stock. Using a cloth to wipe on a thin coating is such great advice. Thank you.
You’re also cleaning lead. Nice old Ruger! Great video! God bless you and your family Sir!
Another quality video! I’ve been watching you for many years now and I must say, one of my favorite firearms related TH-camr. I can spend hours watching and rewatching the way you explain things. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Wishing you and your family a very merry Christmas from the Big Island of Hawaii. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Excellent info! I use only Hoppe's #9 and mineral oil. And a little bit of Lubriplate 130 on my M1 and M1A. Merry Christmas!
As a machinist and a gunsmith, metal to metal always results in wear. To prevent excessive wear, lubrication is recommended. The trick is to know how much lubrication is required. First you have to determine what needs lubrication. The worst oil to use is gun oil. It has lacquer in it. It has solvents in it. It quickly evaporates.
It has a very low viscosity. Here is a rule to remember. Linear movement, requires a viscous silicone paste. Rotary movement, requires several drops of any medium viscosity oil. When applying the silicone paste, several small drops are required. Cycling the movement will disperse the lubricant to where it is needed. Too much lubricant attracts moisture and dirt. That is the enemy of every firearm.
To translate, if it rotates, oil it, if it slides, grease it. But sparingly.
I oiled my ar15 with Lucas oil stabilizer. In 5 degree temps it's completely disabled my ar lol I love that in hot weather though. M1 garand gets lithium grease.
Seems like long time since seen of your videos. Thanks for posting this one . I love seeing your post . Your previous one on lubricant stuck with me. May God bless you and your family. Have a wonderful Christmas!
I put Ballistol on almost everything! I use it sparingly applied to patch cloth so a little 4oz jug has lasted me years! Plus I like its scent. Still use Mineral Oil for just about everything else.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience ... gun maintenance can be a confusing topic with all of the misinformation out there. While you were presenting your information, I couldn't help but think about the topic of lubricants and automobiles. In that area, the WRONG lubricants are often used where they cause reactions with materials and subsequent damage. The information for proper use and the proper choice and application of lubricants has always been available ... those doing the work simply need to care enough to do the requisite research. I am one of your subscribers now ... please keep your videos coming.
It is nice to see men of your age and wealth of knowledge on the platform forever solidifying this information online for all to use and see.
I have been using an engine treatment for the last 20 years. Duralube, like Slick 50. When I get powder residue, it's just that. Powdery. It does not seem to sludge up.
Issues with other products is lack of rust inhibitors, excessive lower-temp burnoff or running oil. Solvents that will eat at rust based finishes, like bluing. Also even solvents like Hoppes that is mildly corrosive and needs to be fully removed when done.
If not an appropriate engineer who knows the differences... I'd stick to proven firearms products. This is mostly the advice gunsmiths stick to on oils at least, so the cheapest one on hand is the go to. This is often Break Free CLP, because it's made in such quantities for the military that's it's far cheaper for its performance even for civilians. It's not just where burnt powder collects that's the place to worry about, but the oil from other areas that got hotter having all the oil running out or evaporating off action parts.
Worked for a large gun range, I worked for a large training company, I have burned out and replaced 7 AR15 barrels, one .223AI precision barrel, broken every part in a Glock except for the barrel itself and the tabs the slide rides on, reloaded 10,000 rounds latest year alone. I have never seen a gun stop running or get damaged for too much lubrication.
ARs and Glocks may run. How does more dirt migrate behind the extractor, the firing pin channel? How does more dirt accumulate in the trigger group?The manufacturer is wrong, the trained armorers are wrong, Glock telling people where to lubricate for decades...how could they know more? A-mazing.
@@onpsxmember Have you ever considered my good sir that maybe when freakish things happen too a large company, maybe the time a bad part slipped through due too a lazy employee for instance or maybe the time Mr Elmer Fudd didn’t check headspace before firing his proud new Ruger MK77 and it blew up in his face.. then maybe the large company would want too blame it on someone else? Just a thought. Because a properly built firearm can fire under water. I have done it. A little oil in the breech shouldn’t harm anything.
Amen Brother…I was fortunate enough to have my Uncle, who fought in WWII teach me everything you so eloquently and sensibly talk about when I was a kid. God Bless
I love my Ballistol. I'm from Germany, of course. Used other machinery oil on my Mosin, and the inner bore started rusting. Since Ballistol no problems ever. But I totally agree with the rest. As much oil as needed, as less oil as possible. Hope this was correct English.
Their barrel cleaning solvent "Robla Solo Mil " is also good. But you have to be careful on blued guns.
Ballistol always makes me reflex cough. I'm not a fan of the smell. I use RemOil as my light oil and Hoppe's as my std solvent. I'm not a fan of CLPs (cleaning, lubricating products). In my experience, they don't do both well enough.
@@cooper57m How different people are. I love the smell.
Ballistol is an incredible product, been using it for many years
A little bit of Ballistol goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. It will not hurt wood, rubber, or synthetic grips and stocks. I use it, and I love the smell.😊
Enjoy listening to this interesting gentleman on something so obviously easy to do. Thank you !!! 🇺🇸
I always appreciate your simple approach and explanation of various topics ... you are very professional and a rare asset to the community. Thank you
I still use Hoppes #9 as I like the smell, and it brings back good memories. One thing he missed is we can use 0000 steel wool with the Hoppes to deal with any rust or gunk on the outside of the barrel. I then use a cotton cloth to remove any Hoppes. After, I like to use the Remington Oil wipes that look like baby wipes. These wipes help prevent over oiling. I also use a thin layer of synthetic grease on any parts that move and touch.
I have been involved with guns since real little and my dad always used hopes no 9. But your videos are right on the money. Thank you and God bless.
Years ago you got me hooked on minimizing lube and using mineral oil, great advice. Gotta say, after a busy range day it’s not so much like wiping a greasy wrench off as it is cleaning out the exhaust pipes on a Kenworth.
I'm an old timer. I love a comeupance from a genuine old timer, makes me feel in my 20s again! Been using less oil, and will use less now. Valueing realization.
Lubriplate…I haven’t hard that in many decades….I was a Marine Aviation Ordnanceman and that’s all we used on the 20mm MK4 gunpod for the F4 Phantom. Lubriplate was the only authorized grease for that gun. A bit of over kill on small arms though.
I am grateful for all of your teaching over the years, and I hope you have a merry Christmas as well.
Great information...I use Green Clean diluted 5:1. Same principle super cheap and long lasting. Once my cleaning kit lube is gone I'll jump to the mineral oil. My handguns per the manual recommend 6 drops of oil period.
I’m kind of new to the rim fire addiction. I’ve shot them all my shooting life but always thought of the 22 as a sub caliber. Now I’m changing my opinion of that and have been so fortunate to see some of your older (three years removed) videos presentations. I was so sad to hear you speak of your medical issues when you informed your followers of your prostate cancer. So after seeing that video, I was afraid you were no more. I’m so so glad to find your recent postings. May God keep you with us for many more episodes of you sharing the knowledge you have acquired. Glad to hear you my friend.
Haha: I always get laughed at for saying this, so now it's your turn 😁
As a mechanic, I always get a kick out of people waxing poetic about their favorite snake oil.
Guns are a pretty simple machine - like anything else, you look for wear and lubricate those areas.
I have the advantage of a maintenance shop.
For steel / alum guns - I just wash them with the parts washer / brake clean - swab the barrel - blow them dry and spray them with silicone. Wipe down and swab.
For wood / composite stock guns - I remove the stock - do the same thing and then put the stock back on. Generally only 2 -3 screws. No chems on wood/composite.
The parts washer cleans all the soot out of the trigger and bcg's really well
I can have pretty much any gun factory clean in about 5 minutes.
One of my favorite channels over the last 8 years, and certainly the most informative!
My favorite lesson from him is about using copper jackets and not to be worried about cleaning out the copper as much as I first presumed.
This type of knowledge and experience is essential.
In more than 50 years of shooting, I have seen loaded pistols and revolvers practically drowning in oil. The usual result is dud cartridges if they have been in the gun for a long time. Some European ammunition has primer and bullet sealing, but don't count on it. I still have a lot of PMP .303 Mk.7 ball with corrosive chlorate primers and an aqueous solution of Young's .303 neutralises the salts. This is very scarce now, so hot water funneled down the bore works, followed by thorough drying and regular cleaning. For that, I mix up a batch of Ed's Red (paraffin, mineral turpentine, ATF and acetone), at minimal cost. A blessed Christmas and a happy shooting New Year!
Earlier videos covering this topic made me realize I was in the over-lubrication bunch. Something I had been doing for years and never really thought about until it was brought up here.
For lubricating metal to metal gun parts, I use Sta-Lube moly/graphite engine assembly lube that is formulated to stay on engine parts without running off. It’s perfect for gun applications as well and has been used by engine builders for decades.
Thank you for this straight forward advise. We were issued M16s in the 80's that had thousands and thousands of rounds fired through them, so the tolerances were fairly loose. We always kept them and ran them pretty dry. In the event that we were firing more than a couple hundred rounds, we'd add some lube to the bolt/carrier interface areas and that was pretty much it. There were hardly any issues. Now if you have a new gas operated rifle then I would lube slightly during the break in period for sure. During heavy use, there are cases of baked on carbon around the bolt (where it fits near the gas tube of AR rifles) and piston areas (of AK and SKS variants) that needs a bit more than a casual wipe (IMO). I like CLP (my military experience stays with me).
Thank you, GunBlue, for another great video. I pretty much switched to your cleaning and not lubricating method after watching one of your earlier videos on the subject. Prior to that, I had been using a Birchwood Casey or Hoppes silicone cloth for my final wipe down. After watching the video, I went to the dry goods store and bought a yard of cotton flannel, then cut out several 16” square rags. I added a little mineral oil and started used those as wipe down cloths. What I’ve found is that after a few uses, they start to shed lint, especially on my pistols that have fairly aggressive checkering on the frame and grip panels. Leaves them kinda messy! I don’t see that problem with the commercial clothes. Do they use a different type of fabric? Thanks again for sharing your wealth of information in a clear, no nonsense manner. Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Don’t forget, as a United States Marine, “every clime and place” it makes a difference when it comes to lubricant of any kind in firearms . In arctic regions, heavy lubricants on parts can make things worse. They will freeze. It’s also a good idea to leave the weapon outside in the temperatures it’s going to be used in. Condensation happens when going from cold to hot. Excessive lube is not good in any climate.
You mean warm to cold climate can cause condensation. We always left our hunting rifles locked in the cab of our truck over night before going on our morning hunt. It was the same temperature as outside and our scopes wouldn't fog up either.
@@kellymcalpin2509 wouldn't it be cold to hot? When it's really cold and you go outside, glasses fog up from the hot air condensing on your glasses.
@@HotShotNot-y8z no
glad your still making video's , Good videos . And I used to use gun oil on my semi auto But I found it would freeze up in cold weather here in Canada . Then I used a compressor oil that was laying around and WOW never ever froze the action again .
I have started using Mineral oil ever since I saw your first video on it. Made so much since. I keep two cloth rags coated with it in a Ziploc bag at my bench. Thank so much for the great advice.
Me too 😊
Same here. Paint thinner and mineral oil.
Please be careful with the oily rags and pads. Think "spontaneous combustion" that can ignite alone and burn your house down.
Mineral oil is a great way to create a gummy mess inside your firearm.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 than you used to much.
I use Ballistol because I run a mixture of surplus/corrosive/questionable ammo at times. A light coat has survived my wife and I sharing a rifle and shooting over 800 rounds in a day, at a match.
I also like that you can over do it without it harming the wood like oils do.
You couldn't be more accurate in your comments, sir. I have seen some men I'd served with lubricate the bore of the barrels after cleaning, thinking it would enhance the longevity of said bore. I would try educating them about the dangers of that sort of practice, but most would continue doing what they were already doing. I never witnessed a catastrophic failure, but did see many malfunctions with their particular rifles. Great information. Thank you!
Very informative, It's amazing how companies and some high profile you tubers market gun cleaners and oils to be the must have when as you stated, keeping a firearm clean can be fairly basic and do the job just as well for a fraction of the cost. Thank you
Thank you for the coaching and the knowledge you share. God bless you and your family, specially in this period when we celebrate our Savior's birth.
I use a very thin coat of automatic transmission fluid on all moving parts inside and out, and also to clean the bore, works great! God bless you, and great video!
Yep, ATF is good stuff for cleaning and lubing guns. Mark Westrom, the founder of present day Armalite, suggessted ATF as a cleaner and lube.
Solid advice. The harshest solvent i ever use these days is a tank of good old boiling dihydrogen monoxide. Thatll strip out corrosive salts, black powder residue, grease, grime, dirt and even convert rust back into bluing. I dont however agree that guns DON'T need lubrication. They do. They are mechanical devices with metal on metal contact points. They just need far less than most people think. Drops, not drizzles and only on wear points.
DHMO is very dangerous. It can pool in low areas and displace air. It’s especially hazardous in cold weather.
It's hydrogen hydroxide, the correct chemical composition expression. (H20, sometimes called "water.")
Good one!
@@eb1684 I got that from Mark Novak. When I say I clean things and bathe in Dihydrogen monoxide I get really weird looks and LMAO for a while until I inform them that it's water. LOL
@@krockpotbroccoli65 But it's not right and annoying to knowledgeable folks. (admittedly very few these days).
I love the smell of Hoppes in the morning. Thanks for the vid. Good to know. Accuracy Systems out of Colorado recommends brake parts cleaner when breaking in their barrels. Comes in a high pressure can so you can blast away. Now I am going to try mineral spirits
As a professional gunsmith, I have to find products available in quantity that are affordable and work well. It's also important that these products be as non-toxic as possible since I come into contact with them almost daily. Here's what I use in the shop: general cleaning/degreasing - Zep Orange Citrus degreaser, bore cleaner - Bore Tech Eliminator, lube grease - Lubriplate SFL-0, gun oil - Lubriplate FMO oil. I use grease for most general lubrication since it stays put and does not migrate. Stainless actions do need lubrication as stainless will gall on itself. AR platforms need to have visible lubrication on the BCG. There are some specialty products that work very well on things like hard carbon deposits found on muzzle devices and bolt carriers. For these I use my ultrasonic cleaner or for parts that cannot go in the ultrasonic cleaner, Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover and a brush.
b olt c arrier g roup, acronyms suck
@@blueplasma5589if you own an AR you know what a BCG is.
i took your suggestions on my 1911 and wow i couldn't even shoot 2 in a row with out jamming so i took it back apart and lubed the crap out of it and wow just like butter pop pop pop like it should
Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones and please have a safe and enjoyable New Year's celebration. Years ago I started using mineral spirits and oil. For nostalgia and because I, too, like the smell I keep a small bottle of Hoppes open when I clean my firearms. At my age there is little harm that the chemical odor will add to my condition and it brings back fond memories of buddies and family sitting around sharing our love of firearms. God bless!
Always a pleasure to watch your videos sir .Merry Christmas ,Happy Hanukkah and Happy New Year .God Bless👍
Great to see you back with more content. Much appreciated.
I’d love to hear you elaborate about the 22 hornet, I believe you could shed much light on such a classic cartridge. Thank you again.
Some of the mainstream oils, Hoppes and the like, will react with the polymers in guns of recent manufacture as well.
I do like the Kaiser's goop for leather.
I do use Hoppes because I have a bunch but I have been using mineral oil for a long time with no issues and no rusting.
Problem with mineral oil is it will not likely prevent rust and you will need to wipe down gun every month even if you do not use it. I use Renaissance wax to prevent rust and also preserves wood for long term storage.
I use Renaissance Wax on places I won't get to often, like on the frame of revolvers that the stocks cover. Or on portions of bolt action rifles hidden by the stock. External only, of course.
Hence the Ed Red gun cleaner and lube uses lanolin .
Lanolin is probably one of the best anti rust and water proof protection there is
One of the best protection against water is lanolin .
A wax that is extracted from lamb wool . Lanolin is what natural water proofer for lamb .
Wiping down steel and stock with oily lanolin cloth will protect them from humidity and rust .
Instead of lubriplate grease
I have several tube of superlube .
@@sofjanmustopoh7232Rust was not a problem when natural grease and fat lubes wee used .Use T C bore butter on steel to prevent rust much better than petroleum based oils.
Correct on rust inhibitors of course.
On Ren wax... I wouldn't use that on anything without wood unless it's going to sit a long time. Unless your storage conditions are really so bad you need wax. If so, I'd consider Ballistol or Boeing T9 Shield, as they spray or wipe on, and leave a thin wax when they dry. Ren wax is usually tacky and only applies where you wipe or scrub it on...
I use Ren wax on old stuff, especially like old milsurps I won't shoot any time soon. Especially where wood and metal touch, and inside the stock in general.
OIL on a gun will flow down into the wood stocks over time when stored upright. Then it soaks into the wood and turns it black and rotten. Sometimes you see it in very old guns but still excess oil can be bad news setting around. I use some Lubriplate I got for free on my Garand. I think USGI specified 130A and the 130AA is a bit thinner grease but it works. I got a beautiful walnut stock I would have liked over the one I have, on my M1 carbine, but I found it had turned all black behind the recoil lug and deteriorated the wood from oil.
Another great video sir! Merry Christmas and may God bless you and your family!
Thank you for sharing wisdom. It can be in short supply amid the latest marketing. While by no means everything new is bad, as you so ably demonstrate, a message that everything that went before can't be as good or better is only half the story (corrosive propellant and boiling soap possibly excepted).
I always enjoy your channel. 62, shooting for 50 years in Britain, and still learning something new or rediscovering lost truth.
Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year as we say on our side of the Pond.
Always sound, accurate advice. Thank you sir!