I had the same issue with my 06" S40. The system would cool for about 5 minutes and then push out hot air. Replaced freon, the pressure switch, the cabin air sensor and it would still kick off.Took the wheel off and watched the compressor clutch. When it got hot, it would start to slip.When clutch cold, I checked the gap and it was 9.5mm, yikes! Pulled the clutch as shown in your video, removed .5mm spacer, reinstalled clutch. Checked gap again, down to spec again 3.7mm. Started car and watched for contact, had wife turn A/C on and off, watched clutch engage and disengage. Had her leave it on as I watched the clutch. Five minutes later she was complaining that the car was getting too cold..Thanks for Posting your Volvo A/C fix!, it really worked and saved me $$$!
2007 Honda Civic SI , same problem, dealership wants my blood supply for a year to fix this issue and won't tell me what it is. Instead buddy of mine recommended me a trustworthy mechanic, the mechanic literally told me what to do, he said your clutch is messed up and it could be what this video said it is or the entire compressor is bad, so he told me he'd try this or I could buy the compressor on eBay for 180$, yes he literally told me eBay was the cheapest and i'd get a new compressor, so I decided to buy then new compressor and he installed it for 130$ bucks with the new a/c air also.
Was just able to use this info to fix the A/C on my 2010 Honda Fit. The A/C hasn't worked in at least three years. Pulled the clutch (had to clean that and the plate under that of rust) removed a shim and put it back together. Working like a charm. Thanks
I had same issue. Ice cold for a few minutes then nice hot air. After taking it to a shop, they told me it needed a condenser. $400 later same issue. Took it back and was told it needed a compressor at another $750. I passed and thought about it for a month. I let the ac run and when it started getting warm I popped the hood and pressed on the compressor relay. Made a “zap” and ice cold air with compressor running. I replaced the relay at $6.50. Ice cold for past month without issue. For the cost of the relay, just replace it first and go from there. Your mileage may vary
The gap gets bigger due to wear of the two metal plates contacting and slipping over time. In my area, rust/erosion also contributes to the increase in gap. Cleaning surfaces and removing a shim works if coil and rest of systems works properly.
Hi, another tip here to remove the clutch without a tool. Just remove centre m5 bolt and screw in 3 m5x25 bolts and tighten them evenly. The clutch will fall off.
2010 S40 2.4l - This SOLVED my problem. Took me about 2 hours in my driveway, slow and steady as I was measuring .6mm. Removed 1 shim to get it down to about .4mm and now it blows cold consistently. Thanks!
Ok so once you remove that Shime...you put 10mm bolt bck into clutch to Hold shimes in place while you put ac clutch back on. DID YOU JUST TAP IN AC CLUTCH WITH RUBBER MALLET to seat etc?..I know stupid question..but you did say to put back in in reverse order..I got that part..so just TAP back in with rubber MALLET..then check Gap 0.3- 0.4 Correct? Rsvp..Kool video..and of course before removing anything..measure Gap..then deduct shimes to bring down to like .03-.04 correct
I did this on my 2004 Silverado hd2500. Didn’t need any special tools to pull clutch. Removed the bolt in the middle and pulled it off, switched out the washer for a thinner one and was back in business.
This allowed me to do the job, but what you don't show is that on an S70 (and probably a V70) the AC Compressor is neatly hidden behind an internal chunk of the body/sub-frame. There is about 1" of space between the entire clutch and this thick, hardened section of the car. Not even enough room for a socket wrench. I made a tool to steady the clutch while I snaked a 10mm socket in with vice grips, just to break it loose. I rented the tool from Autozone and after finding the correct screws to fit the clutch holes, was finally in business. I was able to slowly get the clutch moving out, but knew there wasn't possibly enough room to remove it from the space. I was envisioning having to loosen the motor mounts. I was torqueing on the bolt pretty hard get it moving and it started to strip. Tried multiple times to remove it, until if finally had to resort to the vise grips. That bent the hell out of my homemade aluminum steadying tool, so I had to make tool 2.0 out of steel, as there wasn't enough room to use the vice grips and the Autozone tool. Thankfully the bolt came loose, but the clutch was still seated pretty deep. Didn't want to risk stripping another bolt, so I started tapping (hammering) screw drivers, then chisels, then a pickle fork, then a pry bar until it popped out. Of course it could not be removed from the small space, as I feared, so before loosening the motor mounts, I decided to try the pry bar to yank the motor over, all I needed was a 1/4". It took some doing, but it did the trick. My clutch only had two spacers and they go me to the outside of the spec, so it may need to be replaced in another few years. My wife's been driving this car for 20 years, so I always think it will go soon, but it just keeps kicking. One last difference on the S70, there are no screws holding the inner fender. Had to drill out the pop rivets and re-install with new ones. I only removed half of them on the front side, it was enough to get in there. Bottom line, you video helped, but damn if this design is crazy. The Volvo specialty shop in town, did not even mention that they would do the clutch or especially the spacers, they wanted to replace the whole compressor assembly. I'm guessing the engine would have to come out for that. $$$$
Also check your Cabin Filter..why..because the compressor will shut off..if there is to much resistance from Air Flow problem with cabin filter..and mimic bad Gap etc..hot air....try that 1st..before making this Plung
Didn't use your video then, but removed one shim on my 1998 Frontier AC clutch about 5 years ago to fix a slipping/intermittent AC clutch. I didn't even have to remove the compressor drive belt to do this !!!
First, using a flashlight, watch the action of the clutch itself as the engine idles and the ac set to max cold. If the clutch engages and spins but then suddenly cycles off then on then off the problem may lie with the a/c relay switch and not the clutch.
I don't think so. You can figure that out by swapping relays as they are usually standard for other systems like the horn / lights (dunno with volvo this is case in Honda). Also, I think if a relay is fried, if I'm not mistaken, it will just not work at all. That is, the clutch would never engage if the relay is bad. If it's cycling on and off I would guess it's something else, like he said in the video, it can be an overheat scenario of the compressor, it could be a low pressure scenario, or as shown here it could be the clearance is off and/or the magnet/coil is weak.
Great info! I have a '07 S40. The AC works beautifully as long as the air temperature remains below 85 degrees. Anything over 85 degrees, it stops after about 10 minutes. Hopefully I can fix this and have working AC this summer.
2007 Honda Civic SI, had the same issue, it would work for 5 min then die, I replaced the a/c compressor because trusted mechanic told me too, it fixed the issue. I spent $180 for a/c compressor on eBay and $140 for labor with the a/c air included. This is my trusted mechanic and he literally let me see him fixing my car at the shop, it was a cool experience. I'm glad I didn't go to the Honda Dealership and gave them my blood supply for a year in exchange for the fix. I still have the original Japanese air compressor with me and I am going to show my trusted mechanic this video and tell him what he thinks, most likely we will install my original Japanese air compressor and see if this works, we will do this drinking quality beer, he owns the shop so yeah. If this works he will do this experiment for others because he makes money on labor not on making you buy new parts. Thank you for this magical video you provided for the community.
I have a 1989 Lincoln Town Car, when I accelerate my A/C stops blowing. I've changed the vacuum reservoir, heater control valve, check valve, temp servo, checked the vacuum hoses for cracks, nothing has changed. It only blows cool, not cold, when it does. I had R134 put in, still just cool, not cold. No matter what I select, air only comes out of the front vents. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance
When you say the AC intermittently fails after a while when it gets hot, do you mean that the compressor locks up entirely or the clutch just disengages?
He meant that the clutch disengages causing the AC to stop working. The normal state of the clutch is to be disengaged. When the AC is turned on, the clutch engages and activates the AC system.
Hi there Thank you very much for that tutorial! Was exactly what I was looking for! I really appreciate that you are not talking unrelated things all the time. It is only said what must be said. I also like how you cut the video. “Kurz und knackig” would we say in German! ...on the spot! My AC works again! Thank you! Blessings!
Thanks for the video! I recommend every household gets a pair of $10 stainless steel digital calipers. They work great, and are useful for heaps of things in the shed and house.
In my case they AC would switch off after about 1 minute - if you switched it on and off again it would work for a little while. Turns out the issue was a leak on the pipe ( the pipe leading into the condesor had a small leak at the joint and you could see the refrigerant bubbling out ). The leak caused the ac system to short cycle as it was not buidling up enough pressure.
What does it mean if I tested the relay by swapping with horn and the horn sounds on both yet clutch wouldn't spin UNTIL I jumped the relay????? I already replaced ac switch on 2003 camry v6 and it didn't help. Symptoms b4 were it would stay on until it warmed up so about 15 to 10 then shut off. Please and thanks. I'm trying to figure out what to replace so I don't have to jump it unless it doesn't matter to run it jumped. Is there cold/ hot blend door actuator? Or should buy another relay even though it works on the horn swap??? Pleease I'm in az this is crucial here lol
Very informative...I thank you for making this video. I have a friend coming by with an a/c having issues. This gives me a great starting place to look
Very helpful video! Thank you! I have a similar issue, the A/C would stop blowing cold after 20-30 minutes and after it is hot outside, but the Compressor would still be engaged ( at least it would still be rotating when looked at) the rotation seams to be at a same revolutions per minute like the other pulleys. What would cause the A/C to stop blowing cold after a while, but the compressor would will be engaged. The refrigerant is at 70 -90 PSI when at the low pressure line, when running it is aroung 35-37 PSI, the fan is working. What else could it be?
I just had this issue the other day with my Volvo. Lowering the gap from .51mm to .39mm didn't fix the problem. I added about 6oz of R134a. The pressure went from 40 lbs to about 43lbs. Problem solved. Verdict is still out as to wether or not there is a leak.
Instead of back out the M6 bolts (which is nearly impossible, as the bolt will unscrew from the nut and not push against the removing tool), you should tighten the M5s in sequence in order to get the plate off. I learned that the hard way after trying it your way, it bent my plate and now I have to get a new compressor.
thanks a lot for the video it was very informative. Also how much miles you have on the car just curious because these volvo will have this AC problem after 90K. Thanks again!
Great video! Thanks heaps for sharing this info; previously I was a little confused with the process of actually pulling the clutch off, but you explained it very well. Thanks.
It may also be rust on the compressor contact points. Plus if your car is older it may need a recharge. The place you recharge it at can put in some dye that will show if there is some leakage.
I need help. My ac is not working and was told by a mechanic that I have to replace the whole ac compressor with a new one. After replacing it not change it still blowing hot air.
What head size are those three bolts and the center bolt? I would have used an angle die grinder and clean surface of AC clutch. This actually helps for longevity of repair. Otherwise, a new clutch is necessary.
Thanks. 2001 BMW E39 here. Compressor replaced 3 yr ago with a used unit for the later 5 Series. Was re-gassed recently, and I added the dye to see leaks under black light - nothing. Anyway, got no cold air on cold engine starts (always 27-35 deg C here). After I run the car a while, switch it off, return to it - cold air. After watching this vid I'm wondering if the clutch is worn out just enough to not grip, and the heat from engine expands it just enough to make it work eventually. Hmmm. Will all A/C compressors have that shim setup?
yes, though some may only have one shim. in which case you may need to replace the compressor clutch. unless you can find a replacement shim of the right size. really your first step is find the proper gap clearance for your vehicle/compressor. then get a set of feeler gauges that go to the right clearance size for you and check it. no point in pulling it apart for no reason if the gap is right. could be your have a faulty pressure switch etc. there are many reasons that could cause your issue.
Hello, Thanks for posting this video. I believe the issue is with the gap in my clutch because it’s .6mm. The problem is that even with the tools I wasn’t able to get the clutch off. It actually bent the washers on the m6. Any idea?
Why not take 5 minutes to clean the clutch friction surface? Also, clean the spline and apply a wee bit of grease. Slide it onto the spline and wiggle it around. Remove again and clean all the excess greace. Done.
In my case, I'm not sure what it is. The compressor / clutch engages on and off which I guess is normal, but it's not cold when the compressor is not running and it doesn't seem to run for a long enough cycle. Without removing the wheel, I tried pushing the clutch when it disengages but it didn't seem to want to go so I think the clearance / coil is OK. I think it might be an overheat scenario as my compressor is getting old. The pressure looks ok at around 40psi low side when compressor is running. So perhaps the thermocouple is disengaging the clutch? No idea how to test for that.
Got my compressor clutch out today, did not look as in the video. I had no screw holes. Gap was about 0.75mm. Hard to measure and get to the gap. Pressure line was in the front of the pulley and also the shield bottom of the compressor. Had one shim 1.35mm. So i need to get a shimkit and lower that gap down to near 0.4mm. Seems to be very sensitive this gap. Either i have gap issues, pressure sensor issue or issues with the magnetic coil/ring . Might be AC-relay or fuse too.. but i have checked those
@@d-nice8834 The compressor with magnetic clutch engaged suddenly 1 day ago.. and has been working since strange. I can turn off and on the compressor via AC-button so thats work too. but, i replaced the clutch gap shim today anyways from 1.35mm to 0.9mm shim. Got a better gap now all around.. maybe a little bit tight on the lower side but.. plate doesnt touch when i spin it with my hand. What have you checked on your system? Does system got pressure? Enough refrigerant? Any leaks? AC clutch fuse and relay OK? Does radiatorfan work or if you have two.. does both work? Measured clutch gap?
@@orfeous Well, it has refrigerant, of course when we take it to the shop it always works but as soon as you go down the road a few miles it randomly starts to blow hot air. I've learned a few tricks to get it to come back on: as I come to a stop, turn off a/c switch, put it in neutral and watch the rpms drop suddenly, at this time turn the switch back on, cold air comes back. Gotta be electrical I'm guessing
@@d-nice8834 those tricks/workarounds are the best :) It still sounds pressure/refrigerant related to me. Beacuse it just starta blow hot air. Or if the clutch dissengaged?
Any clue why it doesn't work only during hot days? My car has this same issue. Yesterday was not too hot and it ran pretty good but today it turned off after a bit. I am just trying to understand the correlation.
I read that this is because of the heat. The clutch works electrically. When it’s hot the resistance of the coil becomes higher. So less current will be flowing and the clutch does not have enough force to correctly operate. So that why you have the problem after awhile on a hot summer day.
I have a 2006 civic and just recharged the AC, now blows really cold air is it normal that the compressor stays on the whole time?. My 2013 Nissan cuts off once in a while and I was wondering if my civic should do the same
Clutch does not seem to engage at all on my Volvo S40 2006. AC relay in fuse box clicks and the AC fuse is OK. But no clutch engaging. It might have died. Had a metal sound when i turned of my car for a long time. Like metal to metal. Somehow.. hard to explain what it sounded like. Clutch dissengaging hard and suddenly maybe.
Awesome tutorial. I know this is an old post but the compressor on my c30 kicks in and kicks off after few seconds after i start the engine even though the ac is turned off inside. Is this normal? Once the engine is running i can turn the ac on and everything looks normal
I'm about to test this on my '07 S40. Do you think that, if the clutch is my issue, I should just go ahead and replace the clutch at this point? You said your car had 73k miles on it at the time and mentioned that it is showing wear and mine is at 118k.
It definitely sounds like it could be the issue. If you can get the clutch gap back into spec by removing shims, I would do that. You can likely adjust the clutch back twice with shims before it needs to be replaced entirely. By that point, the compressor may be due to go anyway. My understanding is that Volvo dealers generally replace the entire compressor when the clutch can no longer be adjusted for this reason. The clutch isn't that much cheaper than the whole compressor, though it is of course a fair bit less work.
I actually just ended up sticking some pieces of cut up credit cards in there, similar to what's shown in the link below. It has held for two months now but I'm planning on properly fixing it this Spring. I tried to do what's shown in this video, but couldn't ever get it apart. Definitely, give this a shot. www.matthewsvolvosite.com/ac-shim-fix-are-zip-ties-the-new-bread-clips.html
@@epiglottisdynasty compressor is really expensive here in Sweden. 500-600 euro if not more. Dont think its fun to change it. Big job and lots of parts needs to go.
I wonder if it would have been beneficial to roughen up the contact surfaces with scotchbrite or coarse sandpaper. When you are at the higher side of the gap limits, the rougher surface may help keep the clutch engaged when the magnetic field gets weaker as the coil (or solenoid as you like to call it)😀 gets hot.
The clutch in my 06 Monte Carlo works every once in a while on cooler days but every other day it cycles off and on about every 5 seconds the entire time the car is running if I have the A/C turned on and I've checked the refrigerant level and it's good. Also when I give it 12 volts from the relay position with the car off it does the same thing. I was going to just buy a new clutch but I might try this first, because I would think if I had an open in the coil it would keep it from coming on at all and that's not the case. Also when the clutch does stay engaged on the days it works the air still gets very cold so the compressor itself and the rest of the system all seem to be working properly.
@@nelaco1 I had a bad compressor clutch coil and also when changing that I noticed that when the transmission shop who rebuilt the transmission put it back in they didn't get the wiring harness completely out if the way so several of the wires had been smashed and two that lead to the compressor clutch coil had been smashed so bad that one of them was partially broken inside the insulation so intermittently it would lose connection. With those 2 things corrected its fixed for the most part. However sometimes on hot days it still wont come on at all. I'm assuming it's the high pressure switch but I haven't had a chance to change it yet since were just coming out of winter.
@@rwieber79 , thank you for the reply! I can't believe the shop did that. I need to do more testing on mine. I fixed the gap...it was at .8mm and now it is at .3mm, but it is too cold to test. Right now it goes on for a few seconds, and then stops so I am not sure if it is normal or not. I'll keep in mind the high pressure switch if I still have issues once it gets hot. Tks again!
@@nelaco1 It's supposed to cycle on and off when it's working properly, however it shouldn't be on for only a few seconds and then off for a few seconds and back on again. It should be engaged for 30 seconds give or take depending on the temp outside and what your settings in the car are on and then shut off for maybe 10 to 30 seconds and then come back on. You'll know if it's cycling properly because it will still be blowing out cold air the whole time. If it's cycling closer together and your getting warm air then there is definitely still a problem somewhere. Now if you does it all the time you might want to check the low pressure sensor and the high pressure sensor. Also if you haven't checked the pressures on the high and low side to make sure they are correct and evening out if the compressor runs long enough, I'd check that too. It could lead you to where to go next. If one side is way off you could have blocked orfice tube or bad expansion valve depending on your application.
@@rwieber79 , thank you for the help! I'll keep this in mind. Not hot enough here yet but the air does blow cold. We'll see how it goes. Appreciate all the help you always give!
My C180 is blowing hot air when I run when I stop start cold again at high rpm it's stop I have to switch ac off and on again to cold no technician knows what's wrong any help
Same problem when my car stands still BUT if i press a little bit the acceleration pedal the compressor doesn't stops anymore (and the ac works fine). Why? :(
This video SKIPS a very important and actually the only difficult part... Actually removing the clutch. The method the OC shows SKIPS it over @ t=4:55. This messed me up and cost me hours of extra work. The OC never shows how to do it. Mine was stuck on quite hard, and just bent the triangle puller tool. I had to make my own custom out of thicker steel. That worked. I'm really surprised that the OC just skipped it over. The rest of the video is ok, but now I can't really trust other videos.
What if my car has these same symptoms but also there is a leak I’m getting my driver side footwell and it seems to be coming from the cabin air filter which is near the accelerator pedal, I already checked my sunroof drains and they are not clogged
I don't offhand, looking at the video and knowing the size of my hands, I'm guessing that looks like about 2 inches on the M6. The M5s just need to be long enough to go through the washers and the tools and still grab threads on the car. I don't think the lengths have to be all that exact.
Actually, to take the clutch plate off, you might just screw three M5 bolts into those holes. Lenght of around 40mm should be enough to get it off the shaft.
@@poldpoldecki7171 I've also read that using the bolts as a puller works well. 5mm x 1 1/2" I read. Wind them in until they touch and then go round a flat at a time until the clutch comes off. Shims can drop out so keep an eye on things.
I like to know what those thumbs down don't like about the video. Do you understand exactly what the man is explaining? Or, y'all just that stupid? I understand everything words by words. And, I am teaching myself to fix ac with videos like these.
Hi there, on my volvo v50 2.0 D 136 bhp, the air con works weird, passenger side always blows cold air compared to driver's side which responds correctly, does anyone know what would be the issue?
I’m confused how did you diagnose that the clutch had the issue. If I’m not mistaking you said the ac would come on work for a bit then turn off more likely to happen on hot days, I have the same issue. But I don’t understand how a clutch that has the loose spacing would work sometimes but not always. I feel like the problem would be permanent, not intermediate? Please help me understand. Thank you.
The compressor clutch is magnetic and is pulled in by a coil that produces an electromagnetic field to pull the clutch in. However, since it is magnetic, it can only pull the clutch in so far, if the clutch gap is too big, it can't engage the compressor. As the car gets hotter, and especially as the A/C has been on longer, the resistance of the coil increases, and by extension current and electromagnetic field decreases, making the electromagnet slightly weaker. As a result, when it first starts failing, it can pull the clutch in while cold, but not once it gets hot. After a while, it won't engage it at all. If you adjust the gap smaller, it will be able to engage the clutch all the time, at least until the clutch wears too far to be adjusted, though the compressor will often be worn out by then anyway.
Epiglottis Dynasty I think he was asking why it only fails after driving for a bit and not all the time. I think it's because of temperature increase. When the car has been driven and the compressor/wires/coil warms up, the electomagnetic field in the coil gets weaker as the temperature goes up, and is no longer strong enough to pull the clutch in until it cools down. Or until the gap is made smaller. Great video! Edit: Oops, didn't see the second paragraph in your comment.
Houda Rharbaoui Because every time the clutch engages, it comes in contact with the spinning pulley and wears out. Over time the metal will wear enough making the gap wider. The shims don't wear out, they don't come in contact with any spinning part of the pulley
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I had the same issue with my 06" S40. The system would cool for about 5 minutes and then push out hot air. Replaced freon, the pressure switch, the cabin air sensor and it would still kick off.Took the wheel off and watched the compressor clutch. When it got hot, it would start to slip.When clutch cold, I checked the gap and it was 9.5mm, yikes! Pulled the clutch as shown in your video, removed .5mm spacer, reinstalled clutch. Checked gap again, down to spec again 3.7mm. Started car and watched for contact, had wife turn A/C on and off, watched clutch engage and disengage. Had her leave it on as I watched the clutch. Five minutes later she was complaining that the car was getting too cold..Thanks for Posting your Volvo A/C fix!, it really worked and saved me $$$!
2007 Honda Civic SI , same problem, dealership wants my blood supply for a year to fix this issue and won't tell me what it is. Instead buddy of mine recommended me a trustworthy mechanic, the mechanic literally told me what to do, he said your clutch is messed up and it could be what this video said it is or the entire compressor is bad, so he told me he'd try this or I could buy the compressor on eBay for 180$, yes he literally told me eBay was the cheapest and i'd get a new compressor, so I decided to buy then new compressor and he installed it for 130$ bucks with the new a/c air also.
@@FlamingoVlogs cool
Was just able to use this info to fix the A/C on my 2010 Honda Fit. The A/C hasn't worked in at least three years. Pulled the clutch (had to clean that and the plate under that of rust) removed a shim and put it back together. Working like a charm. Thanks
I had same issue. Ice cold for a few minutes then nice hot air. After taking it to a shop, they told me it needed a condenser. $400 later same issue. Took it back and was told it needed a compressor at another $750. I passed and thought about it for a month. I let the ac run and when it started getting warm I popped the hood and pressed on the compressor relay. Made a “zap” and ice cold air with compressor running. I replaced the relay at $6.50. Ice cold for past month without issue. For the cost of the relay, just replace it first and go from there. Your mileage may vary
The gap gets bigger due to wear of the two metal plates contacting and slipping over time. In my area, rust/erosion also contributes to the increase in gap. Cleaning surfaces and removing a shim works if coil and rest of systems works properly.
Hi, another tip here to remove the clutch without a tool. Just remove centre m5 bolt and screw in 3 m5x25 bolts and tighten them evenly. The clutch will fall off.
Hi there, it would be best if you could make a tutorial video about it :)
been thinking bout this method..i think its gonna working
Exactly how I removed the drive plate on my 1998 Frontier.
Thanks for this detailed guide! Removing a single .5mm shim washer totally fixed my AC!
2010 S40 2.4l - This SOLVED my problem. Took me about 2 hours in my driveway, slow and steady as I was measuring .6mm. Removed 1 shim to get it down to about .4mm and now it blows cold consistently. Thanks!
Thanks, Great video and instructions. Gap was 0.9 mm and conditioner was running 20 minutes, then hot air. Now gap is 0.3 mm and working as a new :)
Ok so once you remove that Shime...you put 10mm bolt bck into clutch to Hold shimes in place while you put ac clutch back on. DID YOU JUST TAP IN AC CLUTCH WITH RUBBER MALLET to seat etc?..I know stupid question..but you did say to put back in in reverse order..I got that part..so just TAP back in with rubber MALLET..then check Gap 0.3- 0.4 Correct? Rsvp..Kool video..and of course before removing anything..measure Gap..then deduct shimes to bring down to like .03-.04 correct
That was some pretty clever work in how you pulled clutch off with the bolts. Thanks for sharing.
This worked for my Mitsubishi outlander...❤️❤️ from India...did it myself and saved a lot of money...great
There is real satisfaction with DIY repairs...
I did this on my 2004 Silverado hd2500. Didn’t need any special tools to pull clutch. Removed the bolt in the middle and pulled it off, switched out the washer for a thinner one and was back in business.
This allowed me to do the job, but what you don't show is that on an S70 (and probably a V70) the AC Compressor is neatly hidden behind an internal chunk of the body/sub-frame. There is about 1" of space between the entire clutch and this thick, hardened section of the car. Not even enough room for a socket wrench. I made a tool to steady the clutch while I snaked a 10mm socket in with vice grips, just to break it loose. I rented the tool from Autozone and after finding the correct screws to fit the clutch holes, was finally in business. I was able to slowly get the clutch moving out, but knew there wasn't possibly enough room to remove it from the space. I was envisioning having to loosen the motor mounts. I was torqueing on the bolt pretty hard get it moving and it started to strip. Tried multiple times to remove it, until if finally had to resort to the vise grips. That bent the hell out of my homemade aluminum steadying tool, so I had to make tool 2.0 out of steel, as there wasn't enough room to use the vice grips and the Autozone tool. Thankfully the bolt came loose, but the clutch was still seated pretty deep. Didn't want to risk stripping another bolt, so I started tapping (hammering) screw drivers, then chisels, then a pickle fork, then a pry bar until it popped out. Of course it could not be removed from the small space, as I feared, so before loosening the motor mounts, I decided to try the pry bar to yank the motor over, all I needed was a 1/4". It took some doing, but it did the trick. My clutch only had two spacers and they go me to the outside of the spec, so it may need to be replaced in another few years. My wife's been driving this car for 20 years, so I always think it will go soon, but it just keeps kicking. One last difference on the S70, there are no screws holding the inner fender. Had to drill out the pop rivets and re-install with new ones. I only removed half of them on the front side, it was enough to get in there. Bottom line, you video helped, but damn if this design is crazy. The Volvo specialty shop in town, did not even mention that they would do the clutch or especially the spacers, they wanted to replace the whole compressor assembly. I'm guessing the engine would have to come out for that. $$$$
Also check your Cabin Filter..why..because the compressor will shut off..if there is to much resistance from Air Flow problem with cabin filter..and mimic bad Gap etc..hot air....try that 1st..before making this Plung
Didn't use your video then, but removed one shim on my 1998 Frontier AC clutch about 5 years ago to fix a slipping/intermittent AC clutch. I didn't even have to remove the compressor drive belt to do this !!!
First, using a flashlight, watch the action of the clutch itself as the engine idles and the ac set to max cold. If the clutch engages and spins but then suddenly cycles off then on then off the problem may lie with the a/c relay switch and not the clutch.
I don't think so. You can figure that out by swapping relays as they are usually standard for other systems like the horn / lights (dunno with volvo this is case in Honda). Also, I think if a relay is fried, if I'm not mistaken, it will just not work at all. That is, the clutch would never engage if the relay is bad. If it's cycling on and off I would guess it's something else, like he said in the video, it can be an overheat scenario of the compressor, it could be a low pressure scenario, or as shown here it could be the clearance is off and/or the magnet/coil is weak.
Relay can easy be checked in 30 seconds
@@martinwayne6946 how can I check it in a 2015 Audi A3?
Great video, thank you! I just did this on my 2013 C30. The gap was .8 mm and now is .3. Working great again.
Great explanation of issue and practical instructions for making the adjustment. Thanks! Comment at 5:19 cracked me up.
Great video! Thanks for making. Very helpful. I know what to look out for now, especially if AC stops cooling (2015 Crosstrek Limited).
Great info! I have a '07 S40. The AC works beautifully as long as the air temperature remains below 85 degrees. Anything over 85 degrees, it stops after about 10 minutes. Hopefully I can fix this and have working AC this summer.
I have the same problem on my 2009 Mitsubishi Outlander how did you fix it??
I have the same problem on my 2002 Civic
Yes, in hot Austria right now with malfunctioning AC🥵
2007 Honda Civic SI, had the same issue, it would work for 5 min then die, I replaced the a/c compressor because trusted mechanic told me too, it fixed the issue. I spent $180 for a/c compressor on eBay and $140 for labor with the a/c air included. This is my trusted mechanic and he literally let me see him fixing my car at the shop, it was a cool experience. I'm glad I didn't go to the Honda Dealership and gave them my blood supply for a year in exchange for the fix. I still have the original Japanese air compressor with me and I am going to show my trusted mechanic this video and tell him what he thinks, most likely we will install my original Japanese air compressor and see if this works, we will do this drinking quality beer, he owns the shop so yeah. If this works he will do this experiment for others because he makes money on labor not on making you buy new parts. Thank you for this magical video you provided for the community.
I have a 1989 Lincoln Town Car, when I accelerate my A/C stops blowing.
I've changed the vacuum reservoir, heater control valve, check valve, temp servo, checked the vacuum hoses for cracks, nothing has changed.
It only blows cool, not cold, when it does.
I had R134 put in, still just cool, not cold.
No matter what I select, air only comes out of the front vents.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance
I believe it should do that so that you get max power, perhaps on a steep hill. It should re engage when you come off the throttle.
When you say the AC intermittently fails after a while when it gets hot, do you mean that the compressor locks up entirely or the clutch just disengages?
He meant that the clutch disengages causing the AC to stop working. The normal state of the clutch is to be disengaged. When the AC is turned on, the clutch engages and activates the AC system.
Hi there
Thank you very much for that tutorial!
Was exactly what I was looking for!
I really appreciate that you are not talking unrelated things all the time. It is only said what must be said. I also like how you cut the video. “Kurz und knackig” would we say in German! ...on the spot!
My AC works again! Thank you!
Blessings!
Olivier Widmer see my recent post here about checking relay switch. My s70 is revived to cool another day.
" short and sweet "
Deutschland 👋 USA
"Fourteen Volt" is the battery voltage while engine is running and generator is charging the battery.
Volvo seems to have this problem more than others good video
You are the Malcolm X of AC compressor clutch repair
Thanks for the video!
I recommend every household gets a pair of $10 stainless steel digital calipers. They work great, and are useful for heaps of things in the shed and house.
In my case they AC would switch off after about 1 minute - if you switched it on and off again it would work for a little while. Turns out the issue was a leak on the pipe ( the pipe leading into the condesor had a small leak at the joint and you could see the refrigerant bubbling out ). The leak caused the ac system to short cycle as it was not buidling up enough pressure.
you bloody legend!!! my aircon works again just in time to move 3000k from southern WA to north Australia
you moved 3 million miles?
@@freepalestina48 3000 kilometers
Brilliant video, I sorted our 2006 Ford Focus ST (the same Volvo engine) with the help of this video. Thanks.
What symptoms did you have? I can clearly tell when mine engages because I can feel the loss of power, but cold air is nowhere to be seen :|
this part on my car is completely loose and i smell burning, i have done like 500km like this, how long can it withstand?
What does it mean if I tested the relay by swapping with horn and the horn sounds on both yet clutch wouldn't spin UNTIL I jumped the relay?????
I already replaced ac switch on 2003 camry v6 and it didn't help.
Symptoms b4 were it would stay on until it warmed up so about 15 to 10 then shut off.
Please and thanks.
I'm trying to figure out what to replace so I don't have to jump it unless it doesn't matter to run it jumped.
Is there cold/ hot blend door actuator? Or should buy another relay even though it works on the horn swap??? Pleease I'm in az this is crucial here lol
Phoenix in Summer, yeah runs most the time. Great video!
This video saved me $1500. Thanks for uploading!
For a new compressor? In germany its cost maximum 600€
Very informative...I thank you for making this video. I have a friend coming by with an a/c having issues. This gives me a great starting place to look
Very helpful video! Thank you! I have a similar issue, the A/C would stop blowing cold after 20-30 minutes and after it is hot outside, but the Compressor would still be engaged ( at least it would still be rotating when looked at) the rotation seams to be at a same revolutions per minute like the other pulleys.
What would cause the A/C to stop blowing cold after a while, but the compressor would will be engaged.
The refrigerant is at 70 -90 PSI when at the low pressure line, when running it is aroung 35-37 PSI, the fan is working. What else could it be?
I just had this issue the other day with my Volvo. Lowering the gap from .51mm to .39mm didn't fix the problem. I added about 6oz of R134a. The pressure went from 40 lbs to about 43lbs. Problem solved. Verdict is still out as to wether or not there is a leak.
Instead of back out the M6 bolts (which is nearly impossible, as the bolt will unscrew from the nut and not push against the removing tool), you should tighten the M5s in sequence in order to get the plate off. I learned that the hard way after trying it your way, it bent my plate and now I have to get a new compressor.
I just did the same yesterday on my'98 Frontier.
thanks a lot for the video it was very informative. Also how much miles you have on the car just curious because these volvo will have this AC problem after 90K.
Thanks again!
This car had 73k miles on it at the time. I think it gets a bit more of a workout in south Texas so it went a little sooner.
Great and informative video. Only suggestion - the fender washer i used was too large and blocked the screw holes so had to use a smaller washer.
Would this fix a "lazy" clutch? Vw passat takes forever to start but under revs it goes cold
Great video! Thanks heaps for sharing this info; previously I was a little confused with the process of actually pulling the clutch off, but you explained it very well. Thanks.
It may also be rust on the compressor contact points. Plus if your car is older it may need a recharge. The place you recharge it at can put in some dye that will show if there is some leakage.
EXCELLENT job! Most might think they need to add freon.
I had an evaporator leak in my 07 XC70. AC sealant worked on that one!
Thats what i thought
I need help. My ac is not working and was told by a mechanic that I have to replace the whole ac compressor with a new one. After replacing it not change it still blowing hot air.
That's exactly the problem I'm having in my 2009 volvo s40
What head size are those three bolts and the center bolt? I would have used an angle die grinder and clean surface of AC clutch. This actually helps for longevity of repair. Otherwise, a new clutch is necessary.
Thanks. 2001 BMW E39 here. Compressor replaced 3 yr ago with a used unit for the later 5 Series. Was re-gassed recently, and I added the dye to see leaks under black light - nothing.
Anyway, got no cold air on cold engine starts (always 27-35 deg C here). After I run the car a while, switch it off, return to it - cold air.
After watching this vid I'm wondering if the clutch is worn out just enough to not grip, and the heat from engine expands it just enough to make it work eventually. Hmmm.
Will all A/C compressors have that shim setup?
yes, though some may only have one shim. in which case you may need to replace the compressor clutch. unless you can find a replacement shim of the right size.
really your first step is find the proper gap clearance for your vehicle/compressor. then get a set of feeler gauges that go to the right clearance size for you and check it. no point in pulling it apart for no reason if the gap is right.
could be your have a faulty pressure switch etc. there are many reasons that could cause your issue.
Hello, Thanks for posting this video. I believe the issue is with the gap in my clutch because it’s .6mm. The problem is that even with the tools I wasn’t able to get the clutch off. It actually bent the washers on the m6. Any idea?
I have a 2006 Ford 500 and the AC blows cool what do you think the problem might be?
Why not take 5 minutes to clean the clutch friction surface? Also, clean the spline and apply a wee bit of grease. Slide it onto the spline and wiggle it around. Remove again and clean all the excess greace. Done.
My 2004 Chevy Trailblazer AC compressor clutch disengages after 10 minutes an will not engage when engine hot. Thanks for the information.
In my case, I'm not sure what it is. The compressor / clutch engages on and off which I guess is normal, but it's not cold when the compressor is not running and it doesn't seem to run for a long enough cycle. Without removing the wheel, I tried pushing the clutch when it disengages but it didn't seem to want to go so I think the clearance / coil is OK. I think it might be an overheat scenario as my compressor is getting old. The pressure looks ok at around 40psi low side when compressor is running. So perhaps the thermocouple is disengaging the clutch? No idea how to test for that.
Got my compressor clutch out today, did not look as in the video. I had no screw holes.
Gap was about 0.75mm. Hard to measure and get to the gap. Pressure line was in the front of the pulley and also the shield bottom of the compressor.
Had one shim 1.35mm. So i need to get a shimkit and lower that gap down to near 0.4mm. Seems to be very sensitive this gap.
Either i have gap issues, pressure sensor issue or issues with the magnetic coil/ring . Might be AC-relay or fuse too.. but i have checked those
Hey, just curious to see if you figured out the problem. Having issues with a Toyota a/c and trying to figure it out, thanks
@@d-nice8834 The compressor with magnetic clutch engaged suddenly 1 day ago.. and has been working since strange. I can turn off and on the compressor via AC-button so thats work too.
but, i replaced the clutch gap shim today anyways from 1.35mm to 0.9mm shim. Got a better gap now all around.. maybe a little bit tight on the lower side but.. plate doesnt touch when i spin it with my hand.
What have you checked on your system?
Does system got pressure? Enough refrigerant? Any leaks? AC clutch fuse and relay OK? Does radiatorfan work or if you have two.. does both work?
Measured clutch gap?
@@orfeous
Well, it has refrigerant, of course when we take it to the shop it always works but as soon as you go down the road a few miles it randomly starts to blow hot air. I've learned a few tricks to get it to come back on: as I come to a stop, turn off a/c switch, put it in neutral and watch the rpms drop suddenly, at this time turn the switch back on, cold air comes back. Gotta be electrical I'm guessing
@@d-nice8834 those tricks/workarounds are the best :)
It still sounds pressure/refrigerant related to me. Beacuse it just starta blow hot air. Or if the clutch dissengaged?
Thanks for posting this! You just saved me a few hundred dollars and I really appreciate it😂
Any clue why it doesn't work only during hot days? My car has this same issue. Yesterday was not too hot and it ran pretty good but today it turned off after a bit. I am just trying to understand the correlation.
I read that this is because of the heat. The clutch works electrically. When it’s hot the resistance of the coil becomes higher. So less current will be flowing and the clutch does not have enough force to correctly operate. So that why you have the problem after awhile on a hot summer day.
Question: what length are the M5 and M6 bolts? Did they come in a kit? If not, where can I buy these?
M5x40mm and M6x50mm
I have a 2006 civic and just recharged the AC, now blows really cold air is it normal that the compressor stays on the whole time?.
My 2013 Nissan cuts off once in a while and I was wondering if my civic should do the same
Check the gap on the Civic, it may be below the limit rather than too large. If the clutch has been off, a shim might have dropped out unnoticed.
Clutch does not seem to engage at all on my Volvo S40 2006. AC relay in fuse box clicks and the AC fuse is OK. But no clutch engaging. It might have died. Had a metal sound when i turned of my car for a long time. Like metal to metal. Somehow.. hard to explain what it sounded like. Clutch dissengaging hard and suddenly maybe.
Hi sir when I on the ac noise coming. I didn't identify. Which part for that noise issue?
Can u just buy clutch without buying solenoid etc..if so please send me a link to order..
My truck A/C won't drop less than 70 degrees..I checked the freon & it looks good ..what it could be?any suggestions
ggg's fan you’re compressor may be failing
Very good work and informative, will have to check if that’s the problem that I have
yes good video the shims are put in to fix just that . 2003 volvo s80 145k same problem
Hi my ac cuts out after a certain rpm...is it normal?..Mitsubushi outlander 2009 cvt 2.4l 4wd
Yes that is so you don’t over speed the compressor
Don't forget this guy performs dank ass music as well : )
You definitely would be great if you continue making car fixing videos like this. Good Luck
Awesome tutorial. I know this is an old post but the compressor on my c30 kicks in and kicks off after few seconds after i start the engine even though the ac is turned off inside. Is this normal? Once the engine is running i can turn the ac on and everything looks normal
I got a question 🙋 What if the clutch doesn’t shuts off when you turn a/c off??
Thank you thank you thank you. V50 T5 is doing this but not for much longer!
Some use a easyer fix with tyribs is that also a good idea?
I'm about to test this on my '07 S40. Do you think that, if the clutch is my issue, I should just go ahead and replace the clutch at this point? You said your car had 73k miles on it at the time and mentioned that it is showing wear and mine is at 118k.
It definitely sounds like it could be the issue. If you can get the clutch gap back into spec by removing shims, I would do that. You can likely adjust the clutch back twice with shims before it needs to be replaced entirely. By that point, the compressor may be due to go anyway. My understanding is that Volvo dealers generally replace the entire compressor when the clutch can no longer be adjusted for this reason. The clutch isn't that much cheaper than the whole compressor, though it is of course a fair bit less work.
Epiglottis Dynasty h5 8
Did you replace your clutch yet i also have a 07 s40 with similar issues
I actually just ended up sticking some pieces of cut up credit cards in there, similar to what's shown in the link below. It has held for two months now but I'm planning on properly fixing it this Spring. I tried to do what's shown in this video, but couldn't ever get it apart.
Definitely, give this a shot.
www.matthewsvolvosite.com/ac-shim-fix-are-zip-ties-the-new-bread-clips.html
@@epiglottisdynasty compressor is really expensive here in Sweden. 500-600 euro if not more. Dont think its fun to change it. Big job and lots of parts needs to go.
I wonder if it would have been beneficial to roughen up the contact surfaces with scotchbrite or coarse sandpaper.
When you are at the higher side of the gap limits, the rougher surface may help keep the clutch engaged when the magnetic field gets weaker as the coil (or solenoid as you like to call it)😀 gets hot.
Just what I suspect in my Honda Fit, thanks!
How does the three bolts hold the plate? I can't screw it in because it doesn't have threads
The clutch in my 06 Monte Carlo works every once in a while on cooler days but every other day it cycles off and on about every 5 seconds the entire time the car is running if I have the A/C turned on and I've checked the refrigerant level and it's good. Also when I give it 12 volts from the relay position with the car off it does the same thing. I was going to just buy a new clutch but I might try this first, because I would think if I had an open in the coil it would keep it from coming on at all and that's not the case. Also when the clutch does stay engaged on the days it works the air still gets very cold so the compressor itself and the rest of the system all seem to be working properly.
Did you ever figure out the problem? I have a similar issue. Thank you!
@@nelaco1 I had a bad compressor clutch coil and also when changing that I noticed that when the transmission shop who rebuilt the transmission put it back in they didn't get the wiring harness completely out if the way so several of the wires had been smashed and two that lead to the compressor clutch coil had been smashed so bad that one of them was partially broken inside the insulation so intermittently it would lose connection. With those 2 things corrected its fixed for the most part. However sometimes on hot days it still wont come on at all. I'm assuming it's the high pressure switch but I haven't had a chance to change it yet since were just coming out of winter.
@@rwieber79 , thank you for the reply! I can't believe the shop did that. I need to do more testing on mine. I fixed the gap...it was at .8mm and now it is at .3mm, but it is too cold to test. Right now it goes on for a few seconds, and then stops so I am not sure if it is normal or not. I'll keep in mind the high pressure switch if I still have issues once it gets hot. Tks again!
@@nelaco1 It's supposed to cycle on and off when it's working properly, however it shouldn't be on for only a few seconds and then off for a few seconds and back on again. It should be engaged for 30 seconds give or take depending on the temp outside and what your settings in the car are on and then shut off for maybe 10 to 30 seconds and then come back on. You'll know if it's cycling properly because it will still be blowing out cold air the whole time. If it's cycling closer together and your getting warm air then there is definitely still a problem somewhere. Now if you does it all the time you might want to check the low pressure sensor and the high pressure sensor. Also if you haven't checked the pressures on the high and low side to make sure they are correct and evening out if the compressor runs long enough, I'd check that too. It could lead you to where to go next. If one side is way off you could have blocked orfice tube or bad expansion valve depending on your application.
@@rwieber79 , thank you for the help! I'll keep this in mind. Not hot enough here yet but the air does blow cold. We'll see how it goes. Appreciate all the help you always give!
Thank you for sharing this video. It was very clear and seems pretty easy.
Thank you for the clear instructions!
My C180 is blowing hot air when I run when I stop start cold again at high rpm it's stop I have to switch ac off and on again to cold no technician knows what's wrong any help
I'm having the same issue with my Toyota, when and if I figure it out I'll leave you another comment, good luck👍
Same problem when my car stands still BUT if i press a little bit the acceleration pedal the compressor doesn't stops anymore (and the ac works fine). Why? :(
Did it work
@@printissgraham4930 no - something's else is wrong
Thank you for sharing how to take it off.
What if the compressor/clutch is brand new preoiled from dealer?
I would assume the gap would be set correctly from factory. Is it not working? If not, is it getting voltage to the compressor clutch?
This video SKIPS a very important and actually the only difficult part... Actually removing the clutch. The method the OC shows SKIPS it over @ t=4:55.
This messed me up and cost me hours of extra work. The OC never shows how to do it. Mine was stuck on quite hard, and just bent the triangle puller tool. I had to make my own custom out of thicker steel. That worked. I'm really surprised that the OC just skipped it over. The rest of the video is ok, but now I can't really trust other videos.
Please tell me how you did your own tool :) need this myself
What if my car has these same symptoms but also there is a leak I’m getting my driver side footwell and it seems to be coming from the cabin air filter which is near the accelerator pedal, I already checked my sunroof drains and they are not clogged
I have same issue. I was told evaporator gasket. Cant find video on it.
2008 s40 2.4 Think I will just change the compressor why bother
Have the same issue with my 2002 honda civic just changed the ac compressor but still dose the same thing
Please help me understand how to find out what the air space should be
Any chance that you remember the length of the M6 and M5 bolts you used, starting at 4:21 into the video?
I don't offhand, looking at the video and knowing the size of my hands, I'm guessing that looks like about 2 inches on the M6. The M5s just need to be long enough to go through the washers and the tools and still grab threads on the car. I don't think the lengths have to be all that exact.
Actually, to take the clutch plate off, you might just screw three M5 bolts into those holes. Lenght of around 40mm should be enough to get it off the shaft.
5mm x 25mm bolts (3)
@@poldpoldecki7171 I've also read that using the bolts as a puller works well. 5mm x 1 1/2" I read. Wind them in until they touch and then go round a flat at a time until the clutch comes off. Shims can drop out so keep an eye on things.
I like to know what those thumbs down don't like about the video. Do you understand exactly what the man is explaining? Or, y'all just that stupid? I understand everything words by words. And, I am teaching myself to fix ac with videos like these.
is that a renault your working on in the video?????
Nah, Volvo S40
At 5:22 the c-clip that holds the pulley is not in there it's the one clearly visible beside your finger :)
Use three long bolts and a pair of channel locks
Hi there, on my volvo v50 2.0 D 136 bhp, the air con works weird, passenger side always blows cold air compared to driver's side which responds correctly, does anyone know what would be the issue?
if you got dual ac control then its probably the blind doors
That's very neatly done. Thank you for the video.
Nice work. Clearly explained and no nonsense 🍻
I'm having this same exact problem in Massachusetts. This is hard to do.
Nice, I cleaned mine to ! To much dirt dust rust .
I’m confused how did you diagnose that the clutch had the issue. If I’m not mistaking you said the ac would come on work for a bit then turn off more likely to happen on hot days, I have the same issue. But I don’t understand how a clutch that has the loose spacing would work sometimes but not always. I feel like the problem would be permanent, not intermediate?
Please help me understand. Thank you.
The compressor clutch is magnetic and is pulled in by a coil that produces an electromagnetic field to pull the clutch in. However, since it is magnetic, it can only pull the clutch in so far, if the clutch gap is too big, it can't engage the compressor.
As the car gets hotter, and especially as the A/C has been on longer, the resistance of the coil increases, and by extension current and electromagnetic field decreases, making the electromagnet slightly weaker. As a result, when it first starts failing, it can pull the clutch in while cold, but not once it gets hot. After a while, it won't engage it at all. If you adjust the gap smaller, it will be able to engage the clutch all the time, at least until the clutch wears too far to be adjusted, though the compressor will often be worn out by then anyway.
Epiglottis Dynasty I think he was asking why it only fails after driving for a bit and not all the time. I think it's because of temperature increase. When the car has been driven and the compressor/wires/coil warms up, the electomagnetic field in the coil gets weaker as the temperature goes up, and is no longer strong enough to pull the clutch in until it cools down. Or until the gap is made smaller. Great video!
Edit: Oops, didn't see the second paragraph in your comment.
i have the same car and while i worked at volvo the test would be tap it with a tool and if it kicks back on than shuts off again its the clutch.
Why does the gap get bigger over time? it's obviously not because the shims wear off (should be the contrary)? Thanks!
Houda Rharbaoui Because every time the clutch engages, it comes in contact with the spinning pulley and wears out. Over time the metal will wear enough making the gap wider. The shims don't wear out, they don't come in contact with any spinning part of the pulley
I bet this did not solve your problem. It sounds exactly like a problem with the thermal fuse on the compressor coil.