AC Clutch Repair and Noise Diagnosis -EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ย. 2013
- This one starts out as a noise diagnosis that ends up working in an AC clutch repair on a 1998 Acura 3.2 TL. In addition to the AC compressor clutch, we also talk about repairing the AC belt idler pulley and other possible noises during AC operation. So if you ever need to replace an AC compressor clutch or have a noise coming from the idler pulley on your AC system, this video is for you. Here's some useful links.
Snap Ring Pliers: www.jbtoolsales.com/kastar-143...
The Basic Principals of AC: • AC System Basics - Eri...
AC Performance Testing: • AC Performance Test - ...
Finding and Repairing AC Leaks: • How To Find and Repair...
Recharging an AC System: • How To Recharge an AC ...
Discussion about this video: www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/1...
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Stay Dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
This is a great example of why I love ETCG. He doesn't just show you the clutch replacement, but instead explains all the other aspects of the issue, such as the idler pulley and its bearing replacement. You end up learning more than what you came here expecting.
I wonder if this guy understands how phenomenal his content is and how he stands against the rest.
@@Madmok128 yes because he saved me so much money everyone kept telling me to just change my entire compressor but this video helped so much knowing how easy a clutch replacement is
💯 his explanations are so good that a bunch of times I've watched his videos on different cars than the one I'm working on! He never disappoints
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This video helped me do the same job on my 2002 Honda Civic. A few differences doing the job on the Civic:
1) You do not have to unbolt the compressor; the assembly is accessible through the wheel well. It helps to remove the wheel, and pull back the splash shield in the wheel well, but the compressor can stay where it is.
2) Eric unbolts the clutch with his impact gun; I don't have one, so I needed an AC Clutch Holder Tool, available as a Loan-a-Tool from AutoZone. This will hold the clutch in place while you loosen the bolt; otherwise the clutch just spins with the bolt.
3) For him the pulley just comes right off; on mine it was impossible to pull of by hand (yes, I removed the snap ring first). To get it off I used a 3-jaw puller (also loaned from AutoZone) that worked perfectly. To get the new one on, I slowly tapped it on, using a piece of wood between my hammer and the pulley.
4) I originally wanted to keep the original pulley, because only the bearing was bad. However, on the OE compressor pulley, you cannot press/pound the bearing out of the pulley because it is staked in at the factory. So, unless you want to cut it out with a grinder or something, just buy a new pulley with bearing and clutch. I actually had trouble finding the bearing WITHOUT the pulley, and it wasn't even cheaper that way. I got a new pulley/bearing/clutch/coil kit (including new snap rings, nut, and spacers) on eBay for less than $50. Like Eric, I did not bother replacing the coil but am keeping it for the future.
Eric,
I have calculated that you have saved me to the penny over 10.3k in labor cost! I can't imagine the hours of editing and patience it takes to makes these videos, I've tried and failed.
You would be my mechanic for life if I lived closer!
Thank you so much!
These videos are great. Not only to they help us find out what is wrong with your car, but it also show us how to fix it if you have the tools and tenacity. Most importantly it helps us not get swindled by a mechanic who wants to add extra work that "needs" to be done.
I was worrying about my A/C compressor health, but now I try the clucth first. Nice tip Eric. Thanks
Are you talking about the ac clutch
@@theroyalone7588 SHOW ME AN EASY WAY TO TAKE OFF THE AC COMPRESSOR, I WANT TO SEE THIS ONE!!!
Eric is my go to guy on TH-cam! He's solid! He explains everything simply and most times he explains stuff so well that it crosses over to many other makes and models. I always check him first when I'm in a jam
Eric's the man, for sure. Imagine what the auto industry would be like if everyone had the knowledge and integrity he has.
It"s his intricate detail work that he provides in the video that brings out the clarity in the repair work. Very well depicted. I very much appreciate his fine tuning
My AC squeels like mad. Today I will look at it. Without Eric I would never think about looking for bearing play. Thank you.
This one may be an old video, but it's still valid.
This comment wouldn’t even be understood at the time of upload
After so many years, I think Im gonna become an elder mechanic, Im learning here in U-tube, You guys are doing a wonderfull job , Now I can help many poor and sad people with car problems. and fix my own too, Its a blessing.🙏👍
Thank you Eric, this is just in time! My Crown Vic. is doing the same except that it sounds like a rock tumbler or (crusher even). You have saved many of us a ton of money and maybe even from unscrupulous, rip-off mechanics that will tell us it's the compressor, charge us hundreds of dollars and simply change out the clutch or even the bearings. God bless you and keep you in good health and prosper you!
I'm just here to figure out the ac clutch plate on my Ford Explorer, this video explanation is probably my favorite out of hundreds of car repair videos. This is a great explanation, thank you.
Just wanted to thank you. I had a similar issue, where it only worked if I hit it with a screwdriver. Two mechanics said it needed a new compressor and quoted me over $800 (It was in for other service and I mentioned what was going on, they never actually tried to diagnose it). It's a older Jeep wrangler and it just wasn't worth it to me with my budget. Several forums had no clue. So 8 years later I stumble on your video. First time I ever heard a mention of the hitting it with a screwdriver.
Anyway, took me an hour and a half (no impact wrench), one brass brush and like 12 cents worth of WD40 (to make it easier to get the rust off) and holy cow I have a wonderfully working A/C again!
Thanks so much, liked and subscribed
Great content Eric. Wish there were more mechanics like yourself around. Have a blessed one!
One of the best auto repair videos I have ever watched. No self-importance! No wasted time (well maybe just a smudge at the very end! : ) ), the exact discussion I needed to hear often just when my mind was raising the question. The pace is great along with the 'can-do' Zen optimism that totally transfers confidence to the watcher. Thank you sincerely for making this...
30 minute video with less than 15 minutes of A/C work
I'm having a similar noise on my 2003 g35. This video narrows down the problem for me and shows how necessary it is to be meticulous, careful, and to be sure you're paying attention when removing parts...especially with those little washers/spacers! Nice job! Thanks for posting!
There's nothing like watching you do a real repair, Great job!
I did a couple of videos of a very similar repair on a Dodge Ram. The biggest problem was finding the right parts! Ultimately I pressed out the bearing and replaced only that.
spelunkerd man, i have a dodge ram with this same os is why im watching. Should o just get another compressor
Hi Erik,
Thanks for the great videos. I have a feedback for you: It is not recommended to hit the bearing directly in the center. It is better to use а hydraulic press and press it on the outer side. I know it the pulley was not going to be used, but someone might try it.
Keep the good work!
Best
Earlier today I found a comment from “fisqual” on “AC not working!!! The CAR WIZARD shows how to easily isolate the problem” saying that you can remove the washer/spacer on Honda compressors with a worn mag clutch for a bit more grab/life. Seems relevant here, since Honda = Acura.
“Its rather specific to Hondas but one thing you didn't mention is that the clutch can wear out just enough to not engage well and sometimes there's an easy fix for it. On Hondas you can unbolt and remove just the outer clutch then remove the shimming washer to decrease the clearance between the clutch and pulley so it will engage again. It only reduces the clearance by a little bit so it won't last for too long but it's a free fix instead of forking over the money for a new compressor right away.”
As per many of the other posts, (if replacing the bearing) take great care seating the bearing back in the clutch. Pressing it in with an old bearing is the safest way. This is probably the most important link in the the install
I love your videos, they're so helpful and informative! Keep it up, Eric :)
I'll be doing this on my grandmas minivan. I was in park at a drive through and heard a clunk, makes a terrible sound when the ac is on, even runs a little slower. Thanks Eric!
Eric the car guy is the best thing that has ever happened to me in my life. I may actually quit my job, get on warfare and watch his videos 24/7 until I die.
This is a very comprehensive video. Thank goodness it is still available. I now have faith in my ability to fix the AC clutch on our 1998 diesel Toyota Landcruiser. The AC stopped working and it smelled like a fire under the bonnet (oops, hood) on a remote road in Australia just a week ago. Having a good think what happened. A mechanic installed new V belts four months ago. The AC belt was very tight. The car had 113,000km at the time. There has been a faint suspicious noise in the engine bay in recent weeks. I deduce now that the clutch pulley bearing was failing. That wear allowed the inside of the pulley to interfere with the electromagnet, which heated up by friction and melted all the goop inside it and shorted the circuit which blew the 20 amp fuse which also supplied the cruise control which also turned off. As an emergency repair, I removed the V belt. I am waiting for a new Denso clutch kit in the mail. Had I been really suspicious of the noise and tracked it down, I only needed to replace that bearing! Thanks for your excellent video.
Only 2 minutes into it so far, but it sure looks to be epic. That noise is horrible, and given where the pulleys are, it looks to be a chore to get to. I expect to enjoy watching the rest.
I laughed
I cried
I was transformed
still watchin these videos. dont have an acura. or an ac problem really. but. its somethin to learn
Keyofterror do the same myself, and is like now I no how to do that on that model of car.
I learn by watching... I could read every repair book and not get it... I watch it on TH-cam once and I have repaired my car and have saved a lot of money....
I just buy a repair manual to keep in the car but seeing it done, is so much better.
Same here. I have a 2000 Ranger, but it's basically all the same, different brands/parts 😥
This is a Godsend! Thank you for posting this. I have been looking everywhere for how to diagnose my 98 Acura RL's A/C system: smoke comes from under the hood whenever the A/C is engaged. Now, I'm suspecting it's the compressor clutch or bearing. I'm super grateful I have a place to start. Thanks Eric!
I love that this video is about this specific 3.2TL's noise and repair, but the information applies to so much more. Thanks for the knowledge.
Awesome video! Just what I needed to see to be able to find the problem with my Hondas ac. Wish you had released it in summer when I would've liked ac but better late than never. Thanks Eric!
When you replace the bearing itself in the pulley it's helpful to heat the pulley where the bearing goes in with a heat gun. The bearing will go right in and you won't have to tap it so much with a hammer. Once the pulley cools it's good to go. I do the same thing to the bearing on the power steering pump when resealing the pumps.
Excellent video Eric. You covered all essential issues and very clear video. You weren’t overly talkative, no nutso background music. Good luck!
I will be watching this guy again. Everything he does is very clearly described and makes sense. No BS, like in some videos!!
Such a good video even in 2019!! thank you
I like how he just happily replaces the bearings. How It's actually done in reality.
Watched the video had noise coming from my AC on my 1998 Tacoma.
Very helpful information wouldn't have tackled it without your help. Thank you! Saved some money and got the satisfaction of doing it myself.
Great videos keep up the good work
Eric! Thank you sooo much for yet another very informative and very well-explained mechanic procedure video! You totally ROCK!
Eric your a champ. Learned a lot from this video. Thanks
Very nice video, thanks!
But the installation of the bearing was more an advice "how to damage a radial bearing". They get marks inside and will die an early death with this method. The force of axial hammer strokes is strongly leveraged towards the contact surfaces at radial bearings.
I personally heat the material and this let's the bearing fall into it's fit. In case this is not possible, I use a press to avoid pressure peaks.
In all cases I use e.g. 1/2" nuts, cutted pipes or even specialised parts which fit perfectly on the OUTER ring of the bearing to press it in.
Ok I'm back, 3 weeks later. Problem fixed. As I suspected 1.7L sohc Civics have the EXACT same compressor. I managed to disassemble the a/c clutch without removing the compressor at all. I took out the old bearing and found one at an independant bearing specialist for a 100$. Just in this video Eric's advice saved me well over 300$.
One of the best video and narrations I have seen on car repair. Thanks Eric you more than covered the topic!
Eric, You should use old bearing to tap on the outer ring, If it where a new bearing, it would have the balls damaged. The rule is, when installing to a hole, tap the outer ring, Installing to a shaft, Tap the inner ring.
I am dealing with bearings every day.
Oh and the AC bearing can also be changed, i have 10 different sizes on them 15-20€ a pc.
It is better to replace the whole clutch assembly on the compressor due to the fact that if the bearing is bad, the clutch pads and plate are not far behind it. Besides it is easier to just replace the whole assembly, it's not that expensive compared to the labor.
Don't hit bearings back in with the inner race, use a bigger socket to hit the outer race
I would use the old bearing laid over the new one, then pound on the old bearing along outer race.
@@newttella1043 i do the same man
Newt Tella using that technique I’d probably wanna watch for the old bearing also getting hammered in eh?
@@hazemmohamad3344 Seldom is there enough room for both bearings. Besides, you just watch carefully as you get close to fully seating the new bearing.
Or you can lightly tap it into place then press it back in with "The Vise" and get an even amount of pressure as you crank it back in.
The coil is bad in my 2006 sonata and I was afraid to
tackle it because I read the spacing tolerance is
critical. After watching you in this video I'm no longer
afraid to go at it. Thanks for helping me to grow a pair.
Signed, Joe the coil guy!
Wanted to say thanks for taking time to do these videos...I've been the 'lucky one' so to speak that fixes the family cars...but so many changes over the years cars are more difficult to diagnose....Thanks for all you do...
Eric, thanks again for the input I'll look into the info from this video for my 2001 Honda Civic. God Bless
never hit the center race on a bearing when installing ,only ht the outer race or better yet use a press or a vice to press it in...hitting the center race will damage the bearing
you can use the old bearing as well
+Mud Sh-sh-shark You also can heat up the outer part ....
Absolutly cruel how this "pro" beats the bearing (and shows this without shame on YT!)
+Dexter Treehorn lets see your repair videos!
CDubs HasIt So only other TH-camrs can criticize? Strange attitude ...
Mud Sh-sh-shark This Is Very True, Cuz Even With The Spacer Shown "That Should Have Been Used," Its Still Not On The Outter Race So Damage Can Occur. I Learned This From Other Experts When Rebuilding Alternators, Replacing Bearings :D
Love this guy. Certainly an amazing fix, everyone else just makes you replace the whole compressor. I did this to my c320 but I waited 6 months to post my comment. U-D-Man Eric!
Eric you are the best mechanic on you tube ever. Very profession knowledgeable, and you explain the jobs so a blind person can do the work. Thank you and keep the videos coming.
Dude he installed the bearing in a way that harms it any real mechanic has known for many years that the safest and simplest way to install bearing is use old bearing to push new one in…. The way he did it already pitted this bearing and will be a faster wear then usual. Personally I’d be ashamed to post this “informative” video. Or title it “how to never install bearing” or even “fastest way to make a bearings lifespan decrease”
you are revolutionary man keep up the good work you inspire me to be a better mechanic
#newest_fan
Eric you are so kick ass :) big big fan!!!!!
Very well done. I completely understood every aspect of this. The whole procedure was explained clearly, it was informative and a pleasure to watch. Thanks !
Good one Eric, never imagined those clutches were so non critical and simple, thanks.
That tutorial was so clear !!Even I the last living caveman could possibly manage that!!
Have to reinstall an ac compressor in my car, I'm so jealous of how that one bolts in, mine is a PITA
Awesome video Eric, really good stuff, I've always watched your videos and trust your content as excellent source material, yes this comment was 8 years ago, but it still have validity for all other viewers watching and ac clutches don't really change design, so this video is still amazing well into the future with cars that have a/c. This issue is happening on my 2008 Acura RDX. Alot of ETCG videos are way better than any information than dealerships will provide you and you are literally armed with the best knowledge that Eric provides! really happy, really helpful! keep up the amazing work!
Just goes to show u learn something everyday. I've been a mechanic for 20 years and never knew u could replace the clutch assembly as my bosses have always just bought the complete compressor. Thanks great video
Your bosses probably choose to replace the complete compressor assembly because most people don't care about proper functioning of the AC system and seem not aware that it requires regular service and you may never know if the compressor internals are damaged and the clutch assembly (coil, bearing, clutch plate) damaged itself due to compressor shaft binding or overheating due to continuous running on low refrigerant (which lowers the OCR, that is, the Oil Circulation Rate, since most car AC compressors don't come equipped with dedicated oil pumps and sumps like Dorin, GEA Bock and Bitzer bus HVAC compressors, which are similar to the Chrysler RV2 compressor, do and therefore the oil has to circulate around the system with the refrigerant), lubricant leaks or other issues. What may happen by replacing the clutch assembly on an abused compressor may be that the compressor fails a short while after the repair and the customer may basically come back, say it's your fault and want the entire compressor replaced under warranty.
I always heard the thickness of a playing card is a good rule of thumb for the compressor clearance.
Thanks for the info bro
1:51
2:00
,015 - .020 usually.
What about my dick thickness?
"So dirty I couldn't find the holes" boy that takes me back to burning man.
@@JordiBoy_ agreed. That's funny af.
Hey Eric thanks for uploading videos like this I've watched about 10 vids so far and im learning alot i want too be a mechanic but my school doesn't offer any auto classes so the internet it my best bet and so far your vids help me out the most.
One of the best automobile technical videos I have ever seen. Thank you very much for uploading this video.
Mine did that & I just had to tighten it. Now it's fine
Can you make a video on all the parts of an A/C compressor and explain what they do? Thanks it would be greatly apreciated
Thanks Eric great job . I tried to find parts the compressor (cluch es) or berrings can comment on this thanks love the videos TK
Had a horribly grinding/whining on my 95 integra.
Took out the a/c system completely and that seemed to solve that issue. I now know why I was hearing this noise!
My Camaro was making the same exact noise that this compressor was. I've been trying to figure out what was causing it and am relieved to know of the culprit. Thank you very much!
ctually I ran the video from the initial sound to the after you worked on it sound and did not see any difference in sound maybe a slight but not much.
i wish you were my neighbor or somthing, such a cool guy
You give me a lot of useful info. A big thank you to Mr, ERICtheCARguy. Explanation easy to understand theory & practical. Once again double thumbs up to you for your excellent presentation.
Eric, you made a excellent instructional video on clutch repair. Nice job. I'll watch more of your videos. I have a 1996 Ford Thunderbird. Your videos help.
Eric, what type camera are you using, it has great picture qaulity?
There's an entier video about it on ETCG1 that you might want to check out. It's also covered on the 'About' page of my website.
Cool, thanks brother...
FoMoCo1 the key to good videos is good lighting.you need lots of light usualy.
this x1000, you can get good results with nearly any camera if you have lots of light and its in the right place
FoMoCo1 -
Ahh! Eric- you should have mentioned DO NOT hit on the inner ring when INSTALLING new bearings! Use a socket of the same diameter as the outer silver edge of the bearing and hammer on that.
UH, HE DID. Are you DEAF?
da324 he only did it to knock the old one out, not when installing the new one
don't hammer the bearing g d i have a press buy a press kit not that much not that hard to do.
@@randyeastman4500
He could make his own if he can stick weld.
Eric is quite a dude. Good video, shows you how economically this repair can be done.
Thank you, Eric! I've used several of your videos when the Chilton or Haynes has been too vague (as if that happens)..
Hi Eric,
Why not just replace the bearing in that clutch unit?
5 years no reply? ouch. Good Question btw.
I upvote this comment
Bump
I have the answer, Ford won’t let anyone sell the bearing. And the part that the belt rides on cost $142.00
Is this possible
"Gentle love taps" Lol that looked pretty hard to me.
Great video Eric. You always break it down so we'll. Keep doing what your doing! We'll appreciate!
MR.Erick ur a very smart tech and mechanic.I`d really do appreciate the technical and mechanical advised. My respect to 5-star professional guys like you. God bless you.
You don't have to use a impact you could just pull down on the covering while you turn the tension should get the screw out
Plastic cover and bolt rusted to nut, no way.
So the noise was only present when the AC was on (the clutch engaged)? Does that make sense, that bearing would be spinning even when the clutch was not engaged would it not?
+Grant Parr When the clutch is engaged, the bearing does not turn... the compressor shaft does. (and also the pulley)
The aircon clutch bearing would be making a noise while the engine is running but it may not be loud enough to be heard over the engine until the aircon clutch is engaged and the bearing is under load
Very helpful video. Many places say the whole compressor needs replaced. Doing it old school is the way to go.
Thank you Sir! I think you might have just saved me a lot of money on a 2000 camry with 202k on it. It was my Mom's who passed with cancer after she only got to put 800 miles on it. My Dad is now gone too and he told me he hoped I that drove that car till the wheels fell off! I Drive it to work 38 miles one way. It now is in need some TLC and I have that same compressor noise. I'm also thinking it's the clutch. Thanks for the vid, it's still a nice car and I'm going to try to go to 300K ☺️!
A word of advice. Don't hammer the bearings inner metal ring, since these bearings have 1 row of balls and are made for radial load only, you want to ONLY hit the outer metal ring on the new bearing. If you hit the inner metal ring, you will expose the bearing with axial load and this can damage the balls and the balltracks inside the metal rings. The old bearing doesn't matter. Use the old bearing on top of the new bearing to hit on when fitting the new one instead of the spacer thing, and focus on hitting the outer metal ring only. Good luck
Fredrik Hällström good advice!!
Fredrik Hällström Another guy who didn't listen. Try again at 7:45.
you shouldn't use that spacer to install the bearing at all.. this is one of the few times so far i'm going to disagree with your methods. When installing a bearing you should only hit the outer race (ring). In this case at least, if you install them press fitted on to a shaft you only hit/push the inner race. This is recommended so that you don't transfer the impact/force via the bearing balls. This prevents the formation of little dimples in the precision surfaces. Will you notice a difference after installation? No, will it mather in the long run, very likely yes.
The correct tool to use is a socket or pipe, a punchtool or whatever allows you to exert force to the press fitted ring only. Using a hammer to tap it in initially is fine, although i'd prefer a plastic/soft hammer.
robin1987100 It's amazing how many people don't listen when watching. Try again at 7:45. He hit that one with a hammer because it was old, but I guess you missed that too.
Thats what most of em do at yt..they were watching just to spot the wrong or simply sayin only looking for that 1 tiny mistakes and off they go dropping atomic bomb and of course taught the whole world the correct way on the comment sec and feeling proud of himself.. Until it turned upside down to hit on him back..
Just did mine. 1998...Exact same car, color, everything. Thanks so much for the guidance!
Hey man you’re video really helped me out with that crazy noisemaker
What about a ridiculously high pitched sequel that comes on when the AC is turned on but once I'm up to ~20mph it stops and wont happen again until engine is cold?
your belt AC belt is loss , tight it up
DeFreshS10 wonder if the noise was in the blower.
I got the same problem on a 2006 murano.... we're you able to fix it?
Master Wrong I'm having same issue. I was told compressor is bad. When cold starting, you can actually see the pulley slugglishly spinning while the squealing of the compressor takes place. In my case, it started out as a small quick squeal and got progressively worse. At first I thpught it was just the just the belt in till I got another set of eyes to observe at start up. Good luck
I would say, someone got DRUNK, and put er in the cabbage.
It's a good thing you did it on an imported car with a longitudinally-mounted engine where the compressor's difficult to get to rather than on a domestic transversely-mounted car with the same problem like my 98 malibu, you make my problems seem so easy.
Best car guy on TH-cam.......no Schlick no bullshit..You get it People come to these videos to deal with car troubles not be entertained!
ack!... I almost changed my clutch to get it to work... Ended up just being a blown ac fuse.. less than 10 cent fix x_x
thank you ass pile!
I though it was a cool story ;-;
lol "ass pile"
The irony of telling someone that no one gives a fuck about their comment, yet takes the time to reply to said comment. Come on, admit it, you had a few fucks to spare.
Nname Withheld from
hey Eric my car started overheating after I turn on my AC
Hey Eric. Thanks for all your videos. Refreshing to see a mechanic who cares about the customers and who doesn't just pray on peoples' ignorance. I just acquired a 97 Tahoe 5.7 and the AC was working just "OK" when I got it. I decided to give it a charge and noticed that the AC clutch engages for 5-10 seconds and then disengages. Not knowing if this was normal I started searching around and someone at oreillys said to check the relay. I swapped it with another one to see if that was the problem before buying a new relay and the problem still exists. The AC is hot and I put in an 18 OZ bottle of charge with stopleak after noticing that the gauge was on 2 psi with engine on and ac on max, gauge plugged in. The tahoe requires 36 OZ of charge and this is where I got confused. After putting in the first bottle it jumped up to 40 psi. I drove it around and checked again and now it shows way overcharged!. Also the gauge now slowly moves toward the 55 PSI range but drops once the clutch engages and this loops until I switch off the AC. I can't get a steady reading with engine on and AC on! should I not trust the gauge and just put in the second 18 OZ bottle anyway because i've read that low charge is the most common reason for this cycling issue????? I don't want to blow up! I understand you will most likely give me a liability type answer and tell me to bring it in to a pro but any ideas for educational purposes!? :D Thanks!
P.S. I am open to a possibility of a leak but everything under the hood of this truck looks brand spankin new. Moist hoses, shiny metal, AC compressor looks brand new! one of the reasons I bought it. Looks extremely well maintained.
+Mike go to horror freight and grab a $50 set of manifold gauges, they will give you a far more accurate reading of whats actually going on in your system. $50 bucks to do it right is cheaper than thousands to replace blown out parts.
Great stuff as always!! probably a million people already said it, but the clearance on this (and most cars) is actually 0.020"
that is painful to watch you tap that bearing into place when you have a vice in front of you. You could have inserted a socket or whatever the same OD as the bearing outer race and pressed it in by tightening the vice. Could have also lubed the bearing too before inserting it. By tapping on it with a hammer, you end up contacting the inner race and Brineling the races.
Arbor press with a push tool and lubricated pulley ID would have been the most ideal.
It's painful that you can't hear. He clearly said not to do it that way at 7:45. He stated he just hammered it because it was an old one.
jeeze, use a block of wood on those bearings!
+walperstyle yeah that red cover on them can get dented in and get in the way of the bearings
+MemoriesDestroyUs ,x
Great video. I have a 1999 trans am that has a bad clutch. I bought the new compressor and saw this so I'm just going to swap out the clutches and pulleys instead of going all out and having to recharge the system. Great video man
Eric, i watched the video and you cleared a lot of things up. Thank You.
im confused, the car sounded the same to me before and after
Then you need some hearing aids my friend lol
@@oodragondrew - I've seen that many times. Friend come by asking why is car was making a very loud noise. Check bearing, pull it out, even with it on hand. He could not "hear" it!! ;-)
by the way , the ac still blows cold air , when making the noise .
What if your noise isn’t that bad ?
you just solved my months long hunt for this sound on my 2003 Miata. Thank you sir.
I watch a lot of Eric's video. He has helped me so much that I have saved so much money following what he has suggested. Thanks Eric for your help.
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