Volvo S40 AC Clutch Shim Removal & Making a Custom Puller Tool
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- Fixing the AC in our 2007 Volvo S40. The AC would work for a few minutes and then stop blowing cold. The most common fix I've found online was removing the shims in the AC clutch, but I couldn't find any good videos or write-ups on the procedure. I'll also show you how to make a custom puller to get the plate off the compressor clutch.
Hardware needed:
(3x) M5 x .8 x 20mm bolts w/washers
(1x) M6 x 1.0 x 30mm bolt
(1x) 3/8" x 2" bolt
(1x) 3/8" nut
(1x) 2" x 2" x 3/16" (or 1/4") plate
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Questions?
email LucidAutowerks@gmail.com
Mailing address:
PO BOX 840146
St Augustine, FL 32080
#Volvo #S40
Nice trick. I was thinking it may have been the thermistor. Mine stopped working proper and it's nearly impossible to get to . so I took an air blower blew out my coil and it began working well. However a year later my compressor is starting to squeal every now and again. I would have never thought the clutch could be reshimmed. It's definitely worth a try. Thanks for the video. My dad used to always say. Start with cheap then go expensive. Most fixes are simple
Thanks. It helped alot when you live 22 miles from auto zone. Good video.
This is very helpful bro it's been to days that my problem I can't pull the clutch
Aaaah thank you for this, this will be next after I fix the timing belt on my C30. 🔥➡️❄
No problem! I’ll hopefully have some more Volvo content coming soon.
@@LucidAutowerks Looking forward to it!
Just FYI for other Volvo diy'ers, a kit like this makes this job easy: www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648995-Conditioning-Removal-Installation/dp/B0028QGTQ8/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=a%2Fc+clutch+puller&qid=1599919991&sr=8-7
You need to use the bolt that has the long reduced diameter cylinder at the end of it, otherwise the bolt would just be pushing against the clutch instead of the compressor like it did in this video. I tried this once using the normal large bolt (similar to this video) and ended up stripping the threads on the three holes on the clutch that are used to hold the puller in place. I had to re-tap the holes and use bolts one size larger and then I used the correct bolt for the center and the clutch came off no problems.
Not knocking the creator of this video, he got the job done, but others may have some problems trying to use a normal bolt to pull the clutch like I did.
Thanks for this!
I use the ghetto Tool for years online but found out Lebaron was starting to go bad and that’s why I had a bad clearance issue but it still worked for years with no problems
I made that tool out of plywood, it barely held but finally it was a success !!
That's awesome! Whatever it takes to get the job done
You need to take all that extra weigh off of your keys, not good for the ignition. Great video, mine is working at the moment, but if I have this issue, I appreciate the instructions on how to rectify it.
Good job!
Please give me a link for the shime kit for my 2008 Volvo C30 Turbo 2.5 Please
Thanks this helped a lot. 🙏🏼
Why can't you use long bolts and push at the 3 existing holes? The rust binding wouldn't be that strong to cause the bolts to do damage.
The autozone loan a tool 57000 will work. Then you need M5 and m6 bolts.
So you took 2 shimes out..and put the thin 1 in..Great job..but if there are 3..which one would be used ??
There were only two and I took out one. It’s really just a guessing game based on the amount of wear that the clutch has. If you were to remove all of the shims two things can happen; everything would be fine and the AC clutch would work normal, or with too many removed the clutch would be engaged when the AC is turned off.
@@LucidAutowerks got it..thanks appreciate that..I ordered a shime kit just to have
@@LucidAutowerksyou must’ve checked the gap between a plate and a compressor before doing the job. The spec is between 3 and 5 mm. Everything less or more is bad. If it’s less, a plate will touch the body and destroy the compressor or bearing (which is the same) with friction and heat. Then remove the shim (in your case it would probably be the thin one) so the gap is in line with the spec 😉
Does anyone know where I can just buy this puller, OEM or aftermarket, or what its name/part No. is?
Edit: Bought one that fits most cars for $90
From Patrolapart, YX91582 (Air Con Compressor Clutch Removal Tool Kit).
Adjusted my A/C yesterday, removed 1mm washer, now works great! 👌
I’ve heard that you can rent them from the parts stores but not sure.
How many turns did it take of your Fabricated tool...to pop off...like 12 turns or less..just curious..you didn't show that part
I forget, to be honest. I believe it was less than 12. Probably only 3-4 full rotations of the bolt.
@@LucidAutowerks Ok... So when I am putting back on Clutch *Plate after removing a shime or 2🤯....all I would do is Align Screw Into Clutch Plate with A shime or 2 of course installed... then I would Tap in Clutch Plate with Rubber MALLET a little til Snug and straight.... then I would Screw Down tighten... down that 10mm bolt the Rest of the way til seated..correct? And by the Way Excellent Video..Great work Thank You So much..**(No Micrometer) Vice Grips..lol😁 ..Oh 1 last thing Should that 10mm bolt be torqued to any specification? Or just tight and Snug etc...with Ultimate Gap of btwn .03-.04..Gap..or close 2 it..??..or just hit gently with rubber MALLET to seat
Which one do you do in the cluntch the think or thin one? I am not 100% Understand this.
The more washers you remove, the tighter the clutch will grab. Which thickness you remove depends on how worn out the clutch is but I just guessed when I did mine and it worked.
The more washers you remove, the tighter the clutch will grab. Which thickness you remove depends on how worn out the clutch is but I just guessed when I did mine and it worked.
no need any tools easy removal