That was a very good video. You touched on some very important stuff when it comes to diesels. One thing I would like to add is watch your turbocharger boost. I drive an F350 with a diesel engine and my owners manual states to never operate with the turbo boost in the high range for extended periods of time because it could possibly cause engine damage. I've had my truck for 14 years now and I've never pushed my boost even near the high range. And I also let my truck idle for about a minute before shutting it down to let the turbo cool off.
The biggest reason to "warm down" the engine, is to prevent coking in the center bearing of the turbocharger. The problem is, the exhaust gas heats the manifold and the turbine housing to high enough temperatures, that it can heat soak and burn the oil in the center bearing of the turbo. That carbon jams up the bearing, and at the very least, makes it not spin freely. Your performance becomes sluggish, because of the increased "turbo lag". If the turbo doesn't spool up as soon as it's supposed to, you generate a lot of soot ("roll coal") and it doesn't take long to stuff up a diesel particulate filter, if equipped. That forces more regeneration cycles, which are only marginally effective in the long run. A restricted DPF increased EGT!!!
Firm believer in turbo cool off....I'm so glad you brought that to a point....warm up and cool down. I fill up at just above 1/4 tank....you can actually feel the difference Very good points!!!!
My fuel mileage drops as my fuel gets lower. I’m planning on installing a bottom feed for my airdog, but for now it’s sucking up to the top and back to the bottom. And I’m thinking if fuel mileage is affected, fuel pressure is lessened, working against the injection pump( 06, Cummins). The higher the pressure the quicker the burn (to a point anyways).
I'm on my first Diesel and your videos have been very helpful in getting me up to speed on what I need to do to keep my truck happy. I'll make it a point to drop in if I'm ever out that way. Cheers from Vancouver!
I’ve always been a stickler for doing maintenance on my vehicles. I had only gotten down to 70% on my oil and it had been eight months and couldn’t stand it and had to change it. My preferred oil is Valvoline full synthetic made for a diesel 1030 weight. I never let my fuel get below 3/4 but that could also lead to having an old fuel issue. Since the last time we talked, my truck is running the way a diesel should be running. Take that for what it’s worth. Love ya brother. Great channel.
#9 - low fuel - more important than even sucking in air, the in-tank fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel in the tank. Running tanks low makes the fuel pump temp go up. I lost one in a gasser and now don't let the fuel run very low on anything (well, maybe my CJ, as there's no in-tank fuel pump, lol).
new sub...just ran across your channel and your rant is right on , being a diesel mechanic for over 40 years I agree with everything you said . number 9 , keep the fuel above 1/4 tank if your fuel pump ..lift pump..is in the tank ,the fuel keeps the pump cool , for me and my 6.7 I say 1/2 is empty.
I am a Hotshot driver and I cover all 48 states and Canada pulling a 40' flatbed. Maintenance is my #1 priority. I like your video and actually learned from it. I want to get 1,000,000 miles out of it. Should be do-able because it's a Ford F350 with a 6.7. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil designed for my specific use and recommended by a Mobil engineer. Your video is plain and simple and I like that.
Yup, doing regular maintenance, keeping it really clean, let’s you catch leaks really early. Way before puddles form and failures ruin your bank account. When I got my 2nd gen Cummins 13 years ago I did oil testing for the first few years. I found that I got the longest change interval with Mobil 1 and the Bosch extra capacity filter for 5k miles. So every 5k miles I change the oil, rotate the tires, grease everything that has a zerk,clean the engine bay, blow out every crevice with compressed air, clean everything replace any bulbs, clean the wheels inside and out,etc. I tow a portable work shop so that gets the big maintenance to so it takes a day. I replace all parts with the best that the after market can provide so I can save the truck from its self. All the mods I’ve made is always with durability in mind. I’m a self employed carpenter. My shit breaks down, I can’t go to work, so however long the repair takes, I’m out a days wages ON TOP OF THE REPAIR COSTS. As well as now having to make many phone calls resetting my schedule of start and finish dates for my customers. I can’t get a ride to work with a buddy. The cheapest truck I can rent to pull my shop is $850 a week. So getting the best made parts is an INVESTMENT, the time spent keeping up the maintenance is an EASY INVESTMENT in comparison to a break down from negligence. After all anyone that buys a dodge is getting it for everything that’s NOT MADE BY DODGE(Cummins,Dana, American axles, new venture, Muncie, Bosch,etc)
Great informative video 👍 Awesome! Got a 2009 GMC HD 2500 Duramax Lmm and I have changed dif oils, transfer case, transmission and filters and upgraded to HSP Intake bundle, air dog lift pump 165 , fass filter delete and Kriptanite sway bar Links and bump stops 🏁 It's never run better! Yes brother 🏁
i drill a 1/4" hole ion the inside of my box for oiling the wheel wells ,park with the front end down and oil the doors, pop the hood and oil the inside of the fenders. Prior to oiling I remove the taillights and wash out the wheel wells,inside fenders,doors and on my 2012 ram there is a vent in the back door where i can wash out the cab corners by inserting the washer in the vent,it also flushes out the rockers. I may start getting the KROWN treatment too
I do like that you mentioned payload. In the RV towing world there are Way too many people with Diesels that cannot actually handle the pin weight. Great example is a Ram 2500 Crew Laramie, when fully equipped it has less than 1800lbs of payload, 5er's easily exceed that even for small ones. The base tradesman 2500 in that same platform can only do 2100lbs, after you account for the people in the truck, ill be modest at 150lbs per person, a family of 5 is 750lbs, hitches way between 180 and 300lbs, leaving around 1000lbs payload for the 5er's tongue weight. I went from a RAM 1500, to a 3500 DRW for payload and stability, my travel trailer is only around 12000lbs (about 2500lb TW) there are no 2500's that can carry my family and the trailer in Diesel.
Easy fix, just leave some of the "family" at home, leave all the liquid "beverages" at home. Of course, by this time, you've left everyone at home so you won't be driving anywhere.
Im one of those ungifted people. spent 4 years in the USMC trying to gain... trainers, special diets... got stronger but no bulk :D@@BrandonSalas-us8mm
Love your content. I have a tuned ecodiesel wrangler and you are so spot on with egt's and cool down. My ecodiesel stays around 1000° to 1100° f at highway speeds. The ecodiesel can take up to 3 minutes to get under 400° after parking.
I agree 100% I never let repairs stack up. It gives me confidence in the vehicle and it is kind of fun to do it. I always change fluids when I get the vehicle every single one even then brake fluid. These trucks can last forever and so can many vehicles when maintained.
All good stuff. The problem is that people buy diesels to be “cool” and use them as they were driving a gasser and grocery getters. Two things I hate hearing the most are my fuel mileage sucks and it’s so expensive to own a diesel. I do not drive a diesel for fuel mileage and definitely not cheap to drive. I drive one for when I’m needing to pull my trailers, bumper pull or gooseneck, I do not have to worry as much as a 1/2 ton. Maintenance is key on all vehicles but diesel cost more. There’s a couple of things on your list I’m needing to get into keeping up with maintenance on my diesel. Which are the differential oil. I’m guilty of letting it go way over the recommended time to change.
Hey man been binging ur vids the last few days and I just realized ur at 9.94k subs and not 994k! You're making content at an awesome level and I love to see Canadian content on TH-cam (theres not enough!). Keep it up as the knowledge and effort you put in your vids is soon gonna start commanding the audience it deserves!
Thanks buddy I love getting comments like this! It fires me up and motivates me to keep making videos! I wish I was at 994k subs haha, maybe one day 🤞🏻
Of everything on this list by FAR the most important few would be monitoring egt’s (as well as transmission and engine temps of course), get good fuel (you get crap fuel that is full of water one time and you won’t have to learn this lesson again), and check your fluids. Going a little long on an oil change as long as your oil level is full will do much much less damage than running your engine with low oil levels. If you starve bearings or rings or lifters you can start counting down to a rebuild.
Add another one especially DPF, DEF, and EGR.....don’t over idle. The more you idle the more you clog up EGR, intake valves and EGR valve and body. Also the compressor side of the turbo is contaminated with engine blow by oils and exhaust side coated with excessive carbon. Also if cylinder temps get too low from over idling the rings become varnished and the blow by increases causing oil diluted by unburnt raw diesel blowing by the rings into the crankcase.
Agree 100% with 1/4 tank meaning empty. Learned that along time ago with semis. Pull a grade and you can run out. Keeps some of the sludge out of the system as well.
Run it hard that’s what diesels are meant for and there good for the engine keeps all the soot and gunk out of the heads... if it has a dpf system running it hard will also cause less dpf regenerations
@@adenseay7406 it does, I have a 2012 f450 6.7L PowerStroke cab and chassis when I run it hard like at dead stops I put the pedal to the floor and let off once I get to the speed I need to get to, and when I do get regenerations while I’m driving I run it harder so it cleans it better diesels aren’t meant to be babied there meant for towing and meant to be run hard. But since it’s a cab and chassis it’s gearing is low and is detuned that’s why I have a sct flash tow tune on mine without the tune it’s stupid slow and can’t go over 80mph and sometimes on the highway I need to go 90mph with a 25 foot gooseneck trailer
I have a 3.2 diesel in my transit with a 10 foot contractor box on the chassis. With that 5 cylinder engine I am able to work it hard enough with highway driving that my regens are maybe 10 seconds and probably mandatory from the factory tunes due to milage. If you have a dpf diesel it has to be worked to keep the egt high enough to clean the dpf.
@@adenseay7406 just get a minimax tuner for the delete and egr delete it too it’s worth it in the long run I can’t legally delete my truck because of the dot numbers and the truck can’t be rolling coal in a fleet of trucks it’s a company vehicle and the fines for that are very high if you get caught for having a deleted truck in a fleet and for having dot numbers that’s why the 7.3 powerstrokes are really reliable they have no restrictions what so ever on that engine
I agree with all 13. Number 13 is a real pieve of mine. When ppl say, "nahhhh, its okay for now" then cry cuz they don't have the money to fix the train of broken pieces. Rrrrrrrr
In addition to the block heater I have installed a low watt heater in the trans pan and a trickle charger to keep the battery at full charge, these are all wired together. When I get up in the morning I plug it in so that when I leave everything is nice and warm!!
Great Video! The only thing I would add is BRAKE system maintenance. MOST people have a diesel truck because they NEED it for towing. Make sure your brake system is ready to handle the extra load if the brakes on the trailer you're towing were to fail. Also a well maintained brake system will help you get better fuel mileage... a dragging brake can cost you 2-3 mpg easy!
You're right with one thing: brake maintenance. But your wrong on another thing: most people have diesel's because they think it's cool, not because they actually tow.
@@calebbyers WRONG with Ultra Low Sulfur diesel fuel now there is very low lubricity and it’s killing high pressure fuel pumps , ESPECIALLY if you have a CP4 which are junk and 100% will fail without adding additives . Problem is so bad that all 2021 trucks are going back to CP3 . If you have a CP4 change it out , Google it you’ll see
@@sticrzy123 yes I agree that ulsd is a problem that lacks lubricating properties, but the reason why u need ulsd is anything with sulfer (like some additives) which is good for the motor itself is bad for the dpf aftertreatment system. Maybe there are some additives that don't use sulfer and don't damage the dpf aftertreatment system.
Every May and November I do my maintenance. Oil, all filters, tire rotation. Without exception. Costs a lot, but I spend a lot more on stupid shit throughout the year than what my mx costs are.
This is the kind of advice people need to hear! I would like to add those things: 1. Undercoat your truck with FluidFilm. That stuff is amazing! Cet a couple spraycans and cover to most rust prone parts. 2. Use quality engine oil. Castrol, Shell, Mobil1, Liqui Moly etc.. Cheap oil is just not worth saving a couple dollars on because its the lifeblood of your engine. 3. Run a can of fuel system cleaner trough the truck every ~ 6 months to a year.
@@darkirondiesel especially using fuel system cleaner works wonders on modern common rail diesels. The most important aspect here is that it cleans the injector nozzles. Coked up and varnished injectors are a big problem with small diesels in passenger cars. Here in Europe we have a lot of small diesels around and man you will be surprised how poorly they can run if you dont take good care of them.
Good stuff, mostly common sense, but great to hear it. I appreciate your direct approach and not dragging on like so many You-Tubers. I'll happily subscribe. Keep it coming.
Good info ! My pet peeve is guys will freak out if they go 200 miles over on their oil change but run that tranny fluid ‘til it’s brown!? Also old/weak batteries will Kill your starter/ alternator. Thanks, keep up the good work.
Another item to change periodically is the power steering fluid. I believe it absorbs water so it should be replaced every five years or so. The same with brake fluid. I try to change out my brake fluid every 50,000 miles (~ 83,334 Km). It gets a lot of use and I think it also absorbs water.
@@jjlawnservice5229 also when the dpf is full, and it can no longer regen all that soot goes where? Out the tailpipe 😂 my buddy's dad has a 14 6.7 cummins and before it was deleted his dad smashed the pedal and all that soot came flying out the tailpipe like a black jet stream
@@pnwripping6636 they derate q of the issues with pickups is when the derate I can't manuly override the system like in a semi and it cost thousands to have it fixed in the semi they have buttons were u can force them to regent but not even that is a fail safe
Fuel treatment is important summer or winter. I just learned if water gets in the fuel and makes its way to the injectors, it can actually blow a tip clean off when the water turns to steam under pressure! There are several brands that did well in a scientific test by project farm. Stanadyne and Howes did very well and preventing gelling and removing water.
Another thing about the engine cool down, I'd give it a few minutes maybe even five minutes. That turbo is hot yes, but it's spinning at a very high rpm rate. The second the engine shuts down, the oil flow stops too, therefore the turbo is spinning really fast and now there is no more oil flow. Giving the engine 5 mins or so to cool down prevents damage to a few things and this keeps oil going to the turbo as it slows down. Keeps maintenance costs down and the turbo is not a cheap fix.
@@Fishinguy962 Some do but not all. I buy my diesel for my tractor in 5 gallon container loads. Much easier to store. Many of my neighbors have small operations, so not worth having a "home" large storage container. Much easier to use a couple of container's to store the diesel and we can get it fresh from a truck stop or a station which has high usage. Price is an issue but freshness is more important. Stale/old diesel is a real pain; I had algae build up and plug everything once and that was enough.
I had a service manager tell me that I should always turn on my exhaust break when I am driving to avoid having to repair my exhaust system. Also, another thing that gets neglected is the transfer case. I am new to owning a diesel and I recently discovered that it should be serviced about every 60k. I love your tips in this video and do most of them already. Thank you!
Like maybe if your doing some heavy work with it check the fluid wouldn't be a bad idea at 60,000km but I'd not expect to have to change it out till 90,000 even as a heavy work vehicle (welding rigs). Same with your diff fluid, things have come a long long way since the 90's.
I have an 08 Dodge 2500 with the Cummins 6.7; I service it myself and keep a maintenance record for everything done to the truck. One thing, besides the book, is to change all the fluids according to the manual (except the filter on top which is changed at 30,000 miles). I also change the brake and power steering fluids since they don't last as long as some people think. An easy way to keep on top is to make a checklist you keep handy so you can track what needs to be done and when. Good luck.
@@frogger2011ify I would say for your transfer case it depends on how often you run 4wd. If you're driving around in 4 wheel drive you're probably gonna put more stress on it but if you're not or if you're doing mostly highway driving it may not be a big deal. My thing is though, if you're spending 20-30k dollars on a decent used diesel and 50-100k dollars on a new one, are you really that concerned about a hundred bucks in fluid or whatever the cost is? Some of these guys are financing trucks at over a 1k dollars a month and they're like 'I can get another 30k miles out of this tranny fluid!' that cost them a couple hundred dollars lol. I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 3500 HD CCLB SLE 4x4 6.0l gasser and at 32k miles I swapped very fluid from what it came with to Amsoil. So transmission, front and rear differential, transfer case and I have all Almosil engine coolant but I just need to stop being lazy and take it in to the dealer so they can drain it and put the Amsoil in. And I've been running Amsoil Engine oil since like 15k miles or so. It's not cheap to do but another 50k dollar truck isn't cheap either and with the regulations especially on the diesels these days, if you have an older truck with no emissions it's very advantageous to keep it running because eventually it'll be illegal for people to sell old parts to them and there's gonna be no option to just go buy a new truck without emissions, as far as the engine and components in it go anyway. Just like anything though, keep up on it and do it earlier than you have to and it'll run like new for basically ever.
Not only letting it cool down for what you said but when you shut it off the oil isn’t going to things like the turbo anymore and if it’s still spinning like if you were just towing hard and it’s still spinning a little then it spins dry if you don’t let it idle before shutting it off
I do all of the above. Regarding warm up, I get it up to 1100 to 1200 rpm. Makes for less fuel condensation on cylinder walls. Rpms are always better than high egts so downshift one gear when towing. And last the thing that really baffles me are the idiots that let their trucks idle for extended periods. Occasionally I'll try to explain the principle of oil fuel dilution and engine bearing wear but it usually only elicits a blank stare.
I own a tree company an I may go alittle overboard but whoever drives one of the trucks checks all fluids an other basic things daily. It's saved me plenty of headaches I believe an we have regular maintenance days. Nothing worse than working on a truck or equipment in someone's backyard haha been there plenty of times
@@darkirondiesel Easy! Required maintenance, they sign a log book; failure means loss of two weeks pay and they must pay for any damage or other issue which comes up.
Harry that’s a little rough. Who’s to say the guys before them didn’t truly check it out. Or maybe the truck just happened to go out at that moment just because. A lose of 2 weeks pay hurts.
@@justinjustin337 I know it hurts but sometimes you need to have something which really gets their attention. If the damage is done "just because a gremlin got it" okay, I could understand it so no penalty. If the maintenance is not done correctly, the punishment comes into play. Just document everything.
carwash is the biggest no brainer. Spending a couple hundred a year to wash the truck, especially during winter/spring, will save you having to buy an entirely new truck when it's eaten alive by rust.
Hey. Wow. Found you. I have a 95 ram 3500 and a 30 foot gooseneck. But I want to pull heavier. So I just bought a 2011 f 550. Don't even have it yet. I operate a tower crane and the maintenance is critical. I'll be bringing my cordless grease gun down Monday. Great video. You got a subscriber from Vancouver. Cheers. ic.
I wish most of my past employers followed #13! When I was a Wrecker Operator and my truck had issues it was always the drivers fault! They would wait months to do Oil Changes check brakes, lube the front end! These were trucks that ran almost 24/7 i don't know how many engines were replaced or rebuilt each year? I did what I could like grease the truck with their supplies (they didn't like that) but telling them my truck needs an oil change would fall on deaf ears 😔. My personal vehicles I stay on top of I have a SUV that's 21 years old has 345000 miles on it and it still runs and drives great!! Now my RAM 2500 Cummins I am currently towing a camper around the USA with I'm a little past the oil change only because I can't find a place I trust to do it! The RAM dealership near me I had planned on going to went out of business 🙄 I will have to wait until I find a RV park that will let me change it myself. I'm about 1500-2000 past the 7000 miles I planned on having it done, it's driving me nuts having to wait.
I just subbed you dude looking forward to more content. I drive a 2010 2500 ram, an have always changed oil at 5k, air filter@10k or sooner, fuel @ 15k, anything mine needed, it got, mainly dealer repairs only, never any outside of any dealer shops, mainly because of all the sensors an computers that run it, an she is bone stock, all OEM, with no mods at all. But I bought it to pull a TT around the USA for the last 10 yrs, now she is retired from work, but its all I ever wanted in a truck, so I'll keep it as my daily driver now, an my hunting/ fishing truck. Mite put a leveling kit on it, as its nose down profile bugs me, an I mite put some 33 in sneakers on her so I don't get stranded in the mud/ sand of Fla. But thats it for mods, thx for the vid
Iam looking for fuel when I hit the half tank mark. I always emphize that to friends and family, because you never know when you might get stranded for awhile. It happened in Atlanta a couple times during ice storms. It happened around DC just this last winter during a snow storm.
One of the biggest no no’s- running ridiculous wheel off sets. Destroys suspension geometry , increases wear on wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rods exponentially! Decreases handling as well. Stick with the factory off set.
A lot of guys need to hear those pointers and so do the wives for reasons as to why we spend our money on our trucks. The one thing that we know as men, as long as you take care of these girls, they (will) take care of you
I've always done my air filter (changed to a knn) I always warm up bc deisal runs on compression.i always greas too but never even thought about fule filter every service. Thank you man
7.3 powerstroke, oil changed every 3k, fuel filter ever 3k. Flush the coolant every now and then. Pour some hot shots secret in the crankcase and fuel tank every so often. It'll run forever.
@@jamiepippin3892 on the 6.7s Ford recommends changing both fuel filters every 30k miles. But obviously it wouldn’t hurt to change them more often. And if I follow the intelligent oil life monitor, I change the oil every 8k miles. I use synthetic 5W-40 or synthetic 15W-40 depending on if it’s dead summer or colder
Been getting burned a lot lately on Rockauto parts. They do not honor some of their warranties. Had a trans go bad at 24k miles on a mostly stock truck other than a banks tuner. Had an ac pump never work from day one, because I got some parts locally they would not honor that warranties. Had a coolant tank crack up in 6 months. it was past the return period. Brake calipers with mismatched bleed ports and leaking from the pistons in a month. They were cardones which I thought was a good brand. I admit buying a trans from them was dumb, but I was also new to the diesel world. The other parts used to be good to get. Not sure why the quality is going to crap lately.
Diesel fuel shelf life depends on one thing how much biodegradable fuel content is in it . B100 bio Diesel will degrade fast even with additives. Fuel stations have seasons of fuel blinds they sell to the public aswell.
You’re right it can be stored for much longer but who has the proper storage to hold fuel and at what point is it going to be beneficial to store BBL’S of diesel it’s not worth storing that much fuel
Since 2005 ethanol use was mandated by Congress which made diesel and gasoline less stable.Use fuel additive to keep injectors lubricated and control fuel degradation over time.
I agree with the EGT thing. I fallow the cummins forums and so many flexers just ego tow so hard and like proud of 1650 degrees lol. Wack dude. I will peak 1200 max
My suggestion is changer antifreeze to a good quality antifreeze a mile Dodge I was losing water pumps fairly regularly and I switched over to Amzoil antifreeze and I have over 300,000 miles in the same water pump and it’s still good and they could look at my rad in and no corrosion anyway this is six in a row jim From Kennerdell Pennsylvania
Great information and important. But, metric measurements I don't care for. I was raised on standard measurements and will stay with standard USA. I don't plan on building a rocket ship any time in the near future.
Over-inflation of tires is very common. When I'm travelllng light, pumping up tires to 50/50 or 50/80 (factory sticker) when running empty payload produces a rough ride and excess center-wear on tires, and some handling issues (wandering). I use the Michelin tire axle weight chart (found on-line) that shows correct pressures to use based on the weight on the tire size, rim size, and (you can use for any tire brand) fixes these issues. My empty 2005 GMC 3/4 ton Duramax weighs 7,200 with me in it, so I run 41 psi front tires, and 34 psi rear tires. Tire wear is even, ride is comfortable, and much less harsh than the GM recommended pressures for that weight (50/50). My axle weight is 4,000 lbs. front and 3,000 lbs. rear when 1-person and empty bed. My tire size is (Cooper AT3) 265/70E-16 with stock 7-inch wide rims. Also, when you run wider than stock tire sizes, you should drop the pressure, shown on Michelin chart, because load carrying is increased due to more air volume in the tire.
"It's awful simple if you know how to do it and simply awful if you don't." Oil is the life blood of an engine. It will never hurt a diesel to change oil more frequently; however, if it isn't changed it can get expensive. All filters on a diesel are cheap compared to repair cost if the Cummins isn't maintained.
I learned the cool down from 1 of your older videos my long ass driveway backing down it takes some skills and time but even when I'm out on site I sit there and puff on my cigar ... I never let my tank get below ¾ unless I'm on a long trip...
The biggest issue with not letting the oil cool down after driving under load or heavy is oil coking. (Coking, not cooking but basically cooks) The oil in your oil cooled turbos will sit and cook at higher temps and can turn to coke. (Not Colombian marching powder)
@@darkirondiesel ahh. Another thing I that I have learned is that with the high pressure fuel pumps (particularly in RAM trucks, and I have a ‘21 eco diesel Wrangler) they were having issues with asphaltenes building up in fuel tanks. They issued a service bulletin and always add diesel Kleen every other tank or so and recommend it. They were not getting bio sludge but asphaltene. I run DK every tank and aside from the first Regen at 490 miles (active) I have not had another active Regen come on in over 6k miles. I’m going to order the Banks derringer and gauge kit this week to monitor my EGt and turbo temps as well to try to keep the engine as healthy as long as I can. Maybe once warranty is expired I’ll come up to Canadia and get a delete from your freedom loving canucks.
#9 something he forgot to add is that all the dirt heavy particles that are in your file tank always sit at the bottom of the fuel tank. You risk sucking up all that dirt
There should be a class that new vehicle owners go to. Most people don’t have a clue.My step grandfather never changed oil he just had someone check it and add if it was low.His car had 80,000 miles on it. The engine was completely worn out.
The three f’s. Fuel add a quality additive for both warm temps and winter temps, filters fuel filters about twice a year and air filter at least once a year and fluids, oil for engine, trans fluids, front and rear diffs, coolants, power steering fluid, break fluid. I really like the hot shots products for fuel and oil additives.
New Diesel owners should be given a course on how to run and maintain their Diesel engines. Unlike the Mercedes driver who at -38C didn't plug it in and didn't let in it warmup. It got 1 block away before the engine seized.
You mentioned EGTs, the actual temp and not being able to monitor. My 19 L5P has 5 EGT sensors in different locations to monitor the temp through my banks I dash. When the trucks go into regen it’s pretty easy for them to reach high 1100 degree temp for 15-20 mins. Just on the newer trucks I’d say it’s been compensated for.
@@darkirondiesel I have an 08 Dodge with the Cummins 6.7. It is not deleted but I probably should have done that. I use a truck camper part of the time and tow a utility trailer a bit. What is the advantage for having a delete done? How expensive are they in your area.
That was a very good video. You touched on some very important stuff when it comes to diesels. One thing I would like to add is watch your turbocharger boost. I drive an F350 with a diesel engine and my owners manual states to never operate with the turbo boost in the high range for extended periods of time because it could possibly cause engine damage. I've had my truck for 14 years now and I've never pushed my boost even near the high range. And I also let my truck idle for about a minute before shutting it down to let the turbo cool off.
Common sense isn't common anymore.
Haha no it definitely isn’t
H.o.g
Exactly
100%
I know right wtf🤦♂️
The biggest reason to "warm down" the engine, is to prevent coking in the center bearing of the turbocharger. The problem is, the exhaust gas heats the manifold and the turbine housing to high enough temperatures, that it can heat soak and burn the oil in the center bearing of the turbo. That carbon jams up the bearing, and at the very least, makes it not spin freely. Your performance becomes sluggish, because of the increased "turbo lag". If the turbo doesn't spool up as soon as it's supposed to, you generate a lot of soot ("roll coal") and it doesn't take long to stuff up a diesel particulate filter, if equipped. That forces more regeneration cycles, which are only marginally effective in the long run. A restricted DPF increased EGT!!!
Also excessive heat can bend shafts if part of has oil and part of it doesn't. A common problem with turbo prop aircraft engines.
Firm believer in turbo cool off....I'm so glad you brought that to a point....warm up and cool down. I fill up at just above 1/4 tank....you can actually feel the difference Very good points!!!!
My fuel mileage drops as my fuel gets lower. I’m planning on installing a bottom feed for my airdog, but for now it’s sucking up to the top and back to the bottom. And I’m thinking if fuel mileage is affected, fuel pressure is lessened, working against the injection pump( 06, Cummins). The higher the pressure the quicker the burn (to a point anyways).
I'm on my first Diesel and your videos have been very helpful in getting me up to speed on what I need to do to keep my truck happy. I'll make it a point to drop in if I'm ever out that way.
Cheers from Vancouver!
I’ve always been a stickler for doing maintenance on my vehicles. I had only gotten down to 70% on my oil and it had been eight months and couldn’t stand it and had to change it. My preferred oil is Valvoline full synthetic made for a diesel 1030 weight. I never let my fuel get below 3/4 but that could also lead to having an old fuel issue. Since the last time we talked, my truck is running the way a diesel should be running. Take that for what it’s worth. Love ya brother. Great channel.
#9 - low fuel - more important than even sucking in air, the in-tank fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel in the tank. Running tanks low makes the fuel pump temp go up. I lost one in a gasser and now don't let the fuel run very low on anything (well, maybe my CJ, as there's no in-tank fuel pump, lol).
new sub...just ran across your channel and your rant is right on , being a diesel mechanic for over 40 years I agree with everything you said . number 9 , keep the fuel above 1/4 tank if your fuel pump ..lift pump..is in the tank ,the fuel keeps the pump cool , for me and my 6.7 I say 1/2 is empty.
I am a Hotshot driver and I cover all 48 states and Canada pulling a 40' flatbed. Maintenance is my #1 priority. I like your video and actually learned from it. I want to get 1,000,000 miles out of it. Should be do-able because it's a Ford F350 with a 6.7. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil designed for my specific use and recommended by a Mobil engineer. Your video is plain and simple and I like that.
Thanks buddy! I love the 6.7 powerstroke it’s a great engine!
im curious if it hangs in there. just got a Duramax 6.6 & wondering the same thing.
I have same engine, which Mobile one oil are you using?
Yup, doing regular maintenance, keeping it really clean, let’s you catch leaks really early. Way before puddles form and failures ruin your bank account. When I got my 2nd gen Cummins 13 years ago I did oil testing for the first few years. I found that I got the longest change interval with Mobil 1 and the Bosch extra capacity filter for 5k miles. So every 5k miles I change the oil, rotate the tires, grease everything that has a zerk,clean the engine bay, blow out every crevice with compressed air, clean everything replace any bulbs, clean the wheels inside and out,etc. I tow a portable work shop so that gets the big maintenance to so it takes a day. I replace all parts with the best that the after market can provide so I can save the truck from its self. All the mods I’ve made is always with durability in mind. I’m a self employed carpenter. My shit breaks down, I can’t go to work, so however long the repair takes, I’m out a days wages ON TOP OF THE REPAIR COSTS. As well as now having to make many phone calls resetting my schedule of start and finish dates for my customers. I can’t get a ride to work with a buddy. The cheapest truck I can rent to pull my shop is $850 a week. So getting the best made parts is an INVESTMENT, the time spent keeping up the maintenance is an EASY INVESTMENT in comparison to a break down from negligence. After all anyone that buys a dodge is getting it for everything that’s NOT MADE BY DODGE(Cummins,Dana, American axles, new venture, Muncie, Bosch,etc)
Great informative video 👍 Awesome! Got a 2009 GMC HD 2500 Duramax Lmm and I have changed dif oils, transfer case, transmission and filters and upgraded to HSP Intake bundle, air dog lift pump 165 , fass filter delete and Kriptanite sway bar Links and bump stops 🏁 It's never run better! Yes brother 🏁
i drill a 1/4" hole ion the inside of my box for oiling the wheel wells ,park with the front end down and oil the doors, pop the hood and oil the inside of the fenders. Prior to oiling I remove the taillights and wash out the wheel wells,inside fenders,doors and on my 2012 ram there is a vent in the back door where i can wash out the cab corners by inserting the washer in the vent,it also flushes out the rockers. I may start getting the KROWN treatment too
I do like that you mentioned payload. In the RV towing world there are Way too many people with Diesels that cannot actually handle the pin weight. Great example is a Ram 2500 Crew Laramie, when fully equipped it has less than 1800lbs of payload, 5er's easily exceed that even for small ones. The base tradesman 2500 in that same platform can only do 2100lbs, after you account for the people in the truck, ill be modest at 150lbs per person, a family of 5 is 750lbs, hitches way between 180 and 300lbs, leaving around 1000lbs payload for the 5er's tongue weight. I went from a RAM 1500, to a 3500 DRW for payload and stability, my travel trailer is only around 12000lbs (about 2500lb TW) there are no 2500's that can carry my family and the trailer in Diesel.
Easy fix, just leave some of the "family" at home, leave all the liquid "beverages" at home.
Of course, by this time, you've left everyone at home so you won't be driving anywhere.
Exercise more frequently perhaps, lol jkjk
Im one of those ungifted people. spent 4 years in the USMC trying to gain... trainers, special diets... got stronger but no bulk :D@@BrandonSalas-us8mm
Love your content. I have a tuned ecodiesel wrangler and you are so spot on with egt's and cool down. My ecodiesel stays around 1000° to 1100° f at highway speeds. The ecodiesel can take up to 3 minutes to get under 400° after parking.
I was so waiting for adding a fuel pressure gauge on the list. It all makes sense.
I agree 100% I never let repairs stack up. It gives me confidence in the vehicle and it is kind of fun to do it. I always change fluids when I get the vehicle every single one even then brake fluid. These trucks can last forever and so can many vehicles when maintained.
All good stuff. The problem is that people buy diesels to be “cool” and use them as they were driving a gasser and grocery getters. Two things I hate hearing the most are my fuel mileage sucks and it’s so expensive to own a diesel. I do not drive a diesel for fuel mileage and definitely not cheap to drive. I drive one for when I’m needing to pull my trailers, bumper pull or gooseneck, I do not have to worry as much as a 1/2 ton. Maintenance is key on all vehicles but diesel cost more. There’s a couple of things on your list I’m needing to get into keeping up with maintenance on my diesel. Which are the differential oil. I’m guilty of letting it go way over the recommended time to change.
Hey man been binging ur vids the last few days and I just realized ur at 9.94k subs and not 994k! You're making content at an awesome level and I love to see Canadian content on TH-cam (theres not enough!). Keep it up as the knowledge and effort you put in your vids is soon gonna start commanding the audience it deserves!
Thanks buddy I love getting comments like this! It fires me up and motivates me to keep making videos! I wish I was at 994k subs haha, maybe one day 🤞🏻
Of everything on this list by FAR the most important few would be monitoring egt’s (as well as transmission and engine temps of course), get good fuel (you get crap fuel that is full of water one time and you won’t have to learn this lesson again), and check your fluids. Going a little long on an oil change as long as your oil level is full will do much much less damage than running your engine with low oil levels. If you starve bearings or rings or lifters you can start counting down to a rebuild.
I change my oil probably more often than it needs, but I don’t use synthetic oil. I just buy my oil in 5 gallon buckets from tractor supply
Add another one especially DPF, DEF, and EGR.....don’t over idle. The more you idle the more you clog up EGR, intake valves and EGR valve and body. Also the compressor side of the turbo is contaminated with engine blow by oils and exhaust side coated with excessive carbon. Also if cylinder temps get too low from over idling the rings become varnished and the blow by increases causing oil diluted by unburnt raw diesel blowing by the rings into the crankcase.
Agree 100% with 1/4 tank meaning empty. Learned that along time ago with semis. Pull a grade and you can run out. Keeps some of the sludge out of the system as well.
Run it hard that’s what diesels are meant for and there good for the engine keeps all the soot and gunk out of the heads... if it has a dpf system running it hard will also cause less dpf regenerations
Wouldn’t running it hard clog the dpf faster since there’s more soot going to the particulate filter?
@@adenseay7406 it does, I have a 2012 f450 6.7L PowerStroke cab and chassis when I run it hard like at dead stops I put the pedal to the floor and let off once I get to the speed I need to get to, and when I do get regenerations while I’m driving I run it harder so it cleans it better diesels aren’t meant to be babied there meant for towing and meant to be run hard. But since it’s a cab and chassis it’s gearing is low and is detuned that’s why I have a sct flash tow tune on mine without the tune it’s stupid slow and can’t go over 80mph and sometimes on the highway I need to go 90mph with a 25 foot gooseneck trailer
I have a 3.2 diesel in my transit with a 10 foot contractor box on the chassis. With that 5 cylinder engine I am able to work it hard enough with highway driving that my regens are maybe 10 seconds and probably mandatory from the factory tunes due to milage. If you have a dpf diesel it has to be worked to keep the egt high enough to clean the dpf.
@@isaacwais9810 I’m about to delete my 16 lml duramax
@@adenseay7406 just get a minimax tuner for the delete and egr delete it too it’s worth it in the long run I can’t legally delete my truck because of the dot numbers and the truck can’t be rolling coal in a fleet of trucks it’s a company vehicle and the fines for that are very high if you get caught for having a deleted truck in a fleet and for having dot numbers that’s why the 7.3 powerstrokes are really reliable they have no restrictions what so ever on that engine
Thanks for posting. great summary of fundamental maintenance practices for new diesel drivers like myself. cheers
I agree with all 13. Number 13 is a real pieve of mine. When ppl say, "nahhhh, its okay for now" then cry cuz they don't have the money to fix the train of broken pieces. Rrrrrrrr
In addition to the block heater I have installed a low watt heater in the trans pan and a trickle charger to keep the battery at full charge, these are all wired together. When I get up in the morning I plug it in so that when I leave everything is nice and warm!!
That’s an awesome idea!
Smart.
This is like beginners guide to diesel trucks.. and this applies to most vehicles really if you're not keeping up with maintenance dont own a vehicle
Great Video! The only thing I would add is BRAKE system maintenance. MOST people have a diesel truck because they NEED it for towing. Make sure your brake system is ready to handle the extra load if the brakes on the trailer you're towing were to fail. Also a well maintained brake system will help you get better fuel mileage... a dragging brake can cost you 2-3 mpg easy!
You're right with one thing: brake maintenance. But your wrong on another thing: most people have diesel's because they think it's cool, not because they actually tow.
@@mikeofthemountain9865 Sad but true!
Lifting your truck and adding bigger tires and wheels is very hard on your truck and will cause it to wear out faster
😂
Too late
All good advice for all types of vehicles
I never let my fuel go below a quarter of a tank! And always use a good fuel additive.
That’s awesome buddy
Most fuell additives can't be used on modern diesels with dpf
@@calebbyers WRONG with Ultra Low Sulfur diesel fuel now there is very low lubricity and it’s killing high pressure fuel pumps , ESPECIALLY if you have a CP4 which are junk and 100% will fail without adding additives . Problem is so bad that all 2021 trucks are going back to CP3 . If you have a CP4 change it out , Google it you’ll see
@@sticrzy123 yes I agree that ulsd is a problem that lacks lubricating properties, but the reason why u need ulsd is anything with sulfer (like some additives) which is good for the motor itself is bad for the dpf aftertreatment system. Maybe there are some additives that don't use sulfer and don't damage the dpf aftertreatment system.
@@calebbyers Hot Shots EDT
Every May and November I do my maintenance.
Oil, all filters, tire rotation. Without exception. Costs a lot, but I spend a lot more on stupid shit throughout the year than what my mx costs are.
That’s good though, will save you money in the long run trust me! Most of the big repairs I do could have been prevented by better maintenance.
This is the kind of advice people need to hear!
I would like to add those things:
1. Undercoat your truck with FluidFilm. That stuff is amazing! Cet a couple spraycans and cover to most rust prone parts.
2. Use quality engine oil. Castrol, Shell, Mobil1, Liqui Moly etc.. Cheap oil is just not worth saving a couple dollars on because its the lifeblood of your engine.
3. Run a can of fuel system cleaner trough the truck every ~ 6 months to a year.
All great tips I agree 100%
@@darkirondiesel especially using fuel system cleaner works wonders on modern common rail diesels. The most important aspect here is that it cleans the injector nozzles. Coked up and varnished injectors are a big problem with small diesels in passenger cars.
Here in Europe we have a lot of small diesels around and man you will be surprised how poorly they can run if you dont take good care of them.
Good stuff, mostly common sense, but great to hear it. I appreciate your direct approach and not dragging on like so many You-Tubers. I'll happily subscribe. Keep it coming.
Thank you!
That’s why I am not deleting my truck. I drive semi trucks and I never had a issue with all this emissions shyt lol. I love my duramax 💯💯
I always check my tire pressure in my air...😂
Haha you’re the first person to comment on that 😂
Good info ! My pet peeve is guys will freak out if they go 200 miles over on their oil change but run that tranny fluid ‘til it’s brown!? Also old/weak batteries will Kill your starter/ alternator. Thanks, keep up the good work.
Another item to change periodically is the power steering fluid. I believe it absorbs water so it should be replaced every five years or so. The same with brake fluid. I try to change out my brake fluid every 50,000 miles (~ 83,334 Km). It gets a lot of use and I think it also absorbs water.
yes my dad has a 2000 7.3 and he has a pyro, it has helped a lot and kept the heads and exhaust from melting
I pull a 42 foot fifth wheel with my old F350. Water methanol injection has been a lifesaver when towing up big mountains here in CO.
Also keep the DEF tank topped off to keep the heater element from burning up
Or remove it all together
@@jjlawnservice5229 I like that idea more
@@pnwripping6636 concitering the regent system is know to fail close fires and has been proven to be worse for the evierment
@@jjlawnservice5229 also when the dpf is full, and it can no longer regen all that soot goes where? Out the tailpipe 😂 my buddy's dad has a 14 6.7 cummins and before it was deleted his dad smashed the pedal and all that soot came flying out the tailpipe like a black jet stream
@@pnwripping6636 they derate q of the issues with pickups is when the derate I can't manuly override the system like in a semi and it cost thousands to have it fixed in the semi they have buttons were u can force them to regent but not even that is a fail safe
Fuel treatment is important summer or winter.
I just learned if water gets in the fuel and makes its way to the injectors, it can actually blow a tip clean off when the water turns to steam under pressure!
There are several brands that did well in a scientific test by project farm. Stanadyne and Howes did very well and preventing gelling and removing water.
Online parts don't equal bad parts... it's the brand. You can buy awesome brand name parts online and crap parts at automotive stores.
This is a great video. I just got a 7.3 powerstroke excursion for my first diesel back in February and this video has a lot of good information in it.
Make sure you high idle warm up after about 15-30 seconds of idle when cold. Also these motors love good oil, they start and idle happier
Thank you for this video I am a new diesel owner.
Ounce of prevention is cheaper than a pound of cure. Great tips and reminders DID. Cheers.
Another thing about the engine cool down, I'd give it a few minutes maybe even five minutes. That turbo is hot yes, but it's spinning at a very high rpm rate. The second the engine shuts down, the oil flow stops too, therefore the turbo is spinning really fast and now there is no more oil flow. Giving the engine 5 mins or so to cool down prevents damage to a few things and this keeps oil going to the turbo as it slows down. Keeps maintenance costs down and the turbo is not a cheap fix.
I like how you get right into it! Greetings from Calgary!
Thanks! Can’t wait for stampede this year 🤞🏻
Most small town fuel stations I know of go through more diesel than gas (unlike city stations)due to all the agricultural equipment using diesel.
The agricultural guys have the diesel delivered in bulk to their farm
@@Fishinguy962 Some do but not all. I buy my diesel for my tractor in 5 gallon container loads. Much easier to store. Many of my neighbors have small operations, so not worth having a "home" large storage container. Much easier to use a couple of container's to store the diesel and we can get it fresh from a truck stop or a station which has high usage. Price is an issue but freshness is more important. Stale/old diesel is a real pain; I had algae build up and plug everything once and that was enough.
I had a service manager tell me that I should always turn on my exhaust break when I am driving to avoid having to repair my exhaust system. Also, another thing that gets neglected is the transfer case. I am new to owning a diesel and I recently discovered that it should be serviced about every 60k. I love your tips in this video and do most of them already. Thank you!
Like maybe if your doing some heavy work with it check the fluid wouldn't be a bad idea at 60,000km but I'd not expect to have to change it out till 90,000 even as a heavy work vehicle (welding rigs). Same with your diff fluid, things have come a long long way since the 90's.
I have an 08 Dodge 2500 with the Cummins 6.7; I service it myself and keep a maintenance record for everything done to the truck. One thing, besides the book, is to change all the fluids according to the manual (except the filter on top which is changed at 30,000 miles). I also change the brake and power steering fluids since they don't last as long as some people think. An easy way to keep on top is to make a checklist you keep handy so you can track what needs to be done and when. Good luck.
@@frogger2011ify I would say for your transfer case it depends on how often you run 4wd. If you're driving around in 4 wheel drive you're probably gonna put more stress on it but if you're not or if you're doing mostly highway driving it may not be a big deal. My thing is though, if you're spending 20-30k dollars on a decent used diesel and 50-100k dollars on a new one, are you really that concerned about a hundred bucks in fluid or whatever the cost is? Some of these guys are financing trucks at over a 1k dollars a month and they're like 'I can get another 30k miles out of this tranny fluid!' that cost them a couple hundred dollars lol. I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 3500 HD CCLB SLE 4x4 6.0l gasser and at 32k miles I swapped very fluid from what it came with to Amsoil. So transmission, front and rear differential, transfer case and I have all Almosil engine coolant but I just need to stop being lazy and take it in to the dealer so they can drain it and put the Amsoil in. And I've been running Amsoil Engine oil since like 15k miles or so. It's not cheap to do but another 50k dollar truck isn't cheap either and with the regulations especially on the diesels these days, if you have an older truck with no emissions it's very advantageous to keep it running because eventually it'll be illegal for people to sell old parts to them and there's gonna be no option to just go buy a new truck without emissions, as far as the engine and components in it go anyway. Just like anything though, keep up on it and do it earlier than you have to and it'll run like new for basically ever.
The 2.8dmax has a factory egt sensor in the egr. It works really good just need a obd2 scan tool to monitor
Not only letting it cool down for what you said but when you shut it off the oil isn’t going to things like the turbo anymore and if it’s still spinning like if you were just towing hard and it’s still spinning a little then it spins dry if you don’t let it idle before shutting it off
Is 30 seconds long enough to cool down after a long run with a 3200# load?
Harry lol I’d wait atleast 1 min
@@nick7.3 Thanks! The manual for my truck didn't say anything about the time.
Great video man. I’m doing more of this right than I thought it was. You should make a video about your background and what got you into this stuff!
Hey that’s a good idea I’ll write that down in my video idea notes! Thanks!
@@darkirondiesel Anytime buddy! Looking forward to more uploads
I do all of the above. Regarding warm up, I get it up to 1100 to 1200 rpm. Makes for less fuel condensation on cylinder walls. Rpms are always better than high egts so downshift one gear when towing. And last the thing that really baffles me are the idiots that let their trucks idle for extended periods. Occasionally I'll try to explain the principle of oil fuel dilution and engine bearing wear but it usually only elicits a blank stare.
Yup , the low idle isn't good for any engine but it's a death sentence for emissions
I own a tree company an I may go alittle overboard but whoever drives one of the trucks checks all fluids an other basic things daily. It's saved me plenty of headaches I believe an we have regular maintenance days. Nothing worse than working on a truck or equipment in someone's backyard haha been there plenty of times
That’s awesome if you can get your guys to do that daily!
@@darkirondiesel Easy! Required maintenance, they sign a log book; failure means loss of two weeks pay and they must pay for any damage or other issue which comes up.
Harry that’s a little rough. Who’s to say the guys before them didn’t truly check it out. Or maybe the truck just happened to go out at that moment just because. A lose of 2 weeks pay hurts.
@@justinjustin337 I know it hurts but sometimes you need to have something which really gets their attention. If the damage is done "just because a gremlin got it" okay, I could understand it so no penalty. If the maintenance is not done correctly, the punishment comes into play. Just document everything.
carwash is the biggest no brainer. Spending a couple hundred a year to wash the truck, especially during winter/spring, will save you having to buy an entirely new truck when it's eaten alive by rust.
Hey. Wow. Found you. I have a 95 ram 3500 and a 30 foot gooseneck. But I want to pull heavier. So I just bought a 2011 f 550. Don't even have it yet.
I operate a tower crane and the maintenance is critical. I'll be bringing my cordless grease gun down Monday.
Great video. You got a subscriber from Vancouver.
Cheers. ic.
I wish most of my past employers followed #13! When I was a Wrecker Operator and my truck had issues it was always the drivers fault! They would wait months to do Oil Changes check brakes, lube the front end! These were trucks that ran almost 24/7 i don't know how many engines were replaced or rebuilt each year? I did what I could like grease the truck with their supplies (they didn't like that) but telling them my truck needs an oil change would fall on deaf ears 😔. My personal vehicles I stay on top of I have a SUV that's 21 years old has 345000 miles on it and it still runs and drives great!! Now my RAM 2500 Cummins I am currently towing a camper around the USA with I'm a little past the oil change only because I can't find a place I trust to do it! The RAM dealership near me I had planned on going to went out of business 🙄 I will have to wait until I find a RV park that will let me change it myself. I'm about 1500-2000 past the 7000 miles I planned on having it done, it's driving me nuts having to wait.
I’d like to say that any shop should be able to handle an oil change but honestly these days who knows
Love my Canadian diesel brothers in the north,,,Cheers from the U>S
Thank you!
I do all of the above.
I let my EGT’s get below 300° before I shut down my truck.
I just subbed you dude looking forward to more content. I drive a 2010 2500 ram, an have always changed oil at 5k, air filter@10k or sooner, fuel @ 15k, anything mine needed, it got, mainly dealer repairs only, never any outside of any dealer shops, mainly because of all the sensors an computers that run it, an she is bone stock, all OEM, with no mods at all. But I bought it to pull a TT around the USA for the last 10 yrs, now she is retired from work, but its all I ever wanted in a truck, so I'll keep it as my daily driver now, an my hunting/ fishing truck. Mite put a leveling kit on it, as its nose down profile bugs me, an I mite put some 33 in sneakers on her so I don't get stranded in the mud/ sand of Fla. But thats it for mods, thx for the vid
Iam looking for fuel when I hit the half tank mark. I always emphize that to friends and family, because you never know when you might get stranded for awhile. It happened in Atlanta a couple times during ice storms. It happened around DC just this last winter during a snow storm.
very good advice, my limit is half a tank
It was once suggested to me to use marine grade grease in front suspension and universal joints.
I am new to the diesel world. And these are all great tips thank you!
lots of great info in this video - truly one of the best
One of the biggest no no’s- running ridiculous wheel off sets. Destroys suspension geometry , increases wear on wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rods exponentially! Decreases handling as well. Stick with the factory off set.
I had a old diesel mechanic tell me only two things kill a diesel heat and rpm !
A lot of guys need to hear those pointers and so do the wives for reasons as to why we spend our money on our trucks. The one thing that we know as men, as long as you take care of these girls, they (will) take care of you
Every thing you have said makes a lot of sence.
I've always done my air filter (changed to a knn) I always warm up bc deisal runs on compression.i always greas too but never even thought about fule filter every service. Thank you man
I change my fuel filters every 30k miles on my 6.7 powerstroke
7.3 powerstroke, oil changed every 3k, fuel filter ever 3k. Flush the coolant every now and then. Pour some hot shots secret in the crankcase and fuel tank every so often. It'll run forever.
@@jamiepippin3892 on the 6.7s Ford recommends changing both fuel filters every 30k miles. But obviously it wouldn’t hurt to change them more often. And if I follow the intelligent oil life monitor, I change the oil every 8k miles. I use synthetic 5W-40 or synthetic 15W-40 depending on if it’s dead summer or colder
Been getting burned a lot lately on Rockauto parts. They do not honor some of their warranties. Had a trans go bad at 24k miles on a mostly stock truck other than a banks tuner. Had an ac pump never work from day one, because I got some parts locally they would not honor that warranties. Had a coolant tank crack up in 6 months. it was past the return period. Brake calipers with mismatched bleed ports and leaking from the pistons in a month. They were cardones which I thought was a good brand.
I admit buying a trans from them was dumb, but I was also new to the diesel world. The other parts used to be good to get. Not sure why the quality is going to crap lately.
always get that good ol' co-op saskatchewan diesel. i dont mean pilsner but i fill myself personally with that as well
I wanna get the ol turbo timer. Nothing like rushing to work them having to wait 2 mins or so for turbo to cool down.
I change my fuel filters often. Especially before the onset of winter and in the spring.
Diesel fuel shelf life depends on one thing how much biodegradable fuel content is in it .
B100 bio Diesel will degrade fast even with additives. Fuel stations have seasons of fuel blinds they sell to the public aswell.
I always top off at half tank in all my vehicles.
Never get below 1/4 tank at any rate.
This information is in the manual. Read your owners manual and follow the recommended service intervals.
Good advice, I recently got a 2020 ram Cummins amazing trucks
Diesel fuel has a storage life of 10 years with a stabilizer and proper storage.
I concur.
You’re right it can be stored for much longer but who has the proper storage to hold fuel and at what point is it going to be beneficial to store BBL’S of diesel it’s not worth storing that much fuel
Since 2005 ethanol use was mandated by Congress which made diesel and gasoline less stable.Use fuel additive to keep injectors lubricated and control fuel degradation over time.
@@dextermay4007 I’m pretty sure they don’t put ethanol in diesel.
I agree with the EGT thing. I fallow the cummins forums and so many flexers just ego tow so hard and like proud of 1650 degrees lol. Wack dude. I will peak 1200 max
My suggestion is changer antifreeze to a good quality antifreeze a mile Dodge I was losing water pumps fairly regularly and I switched over to Amzoil antifreeze and I have over 300,000 miles in the same water pump and it’s still good and they could look at my rad in and no corrosion anyway this is six in a row jim From Kennerdell Pennsylvania
Great information and important. But, metric measurements I don't care for. I was raised on standard measurements and will stay with standard USA. I don't plan on building a rocket ship any time in the near future.
Good list , been doing most of these on the li
#13 pierced the heart.
Over-inflation of tires is very common. When I'm travelllng light, pumping up tires to 50/50 or 50/80 (factory sticker) when running empty payload produces a rough ride and excess center-wear on tires, and some handling issues (wandering). I use the Michelin tire axle weight chart (found on-line) that shows correct pressures to use based on the weight on the tire size, rim size, and (you can use for any tire brand) fixes these issues. My empty 2005 GMC 3/4 ton Duramax weighs 7,200 with me in it, so I run 41 psi front tires, and 34 psi rear tires. Tire wear is even, ride is comfortable, and much less harsh than the GM recommended pressures for that weight (50/50). My axle weight is 4,000 lbs. front and 3,000 lbs. rear when 1-person and empty bed. My tire size is (Cooper AT3) 265/70E-16 with stock 7-inch wide rims. Also, when you run wider than stock tire sizes, you should drop the pressure, shown on Michelin chart, because load carrying is increased due to more air volume in the tire.
"It's awful simple if you know how to do it and simply awful if you don't." Oil is the life blood of an engine. It will never hurt a diesel to change oil more frequently; however, if it isn't changed it can get expensive. All filters on a diesel are cheap compared to repair cost if the Cummins isn't maintained.
High idle warmup, don’t idle to warm, it just causes glazing and cold fuel to stick to cylinder walls.
Facts
That's a great garage building you have there. I'm planning on something like that. What is the floor size?
I learned the cool down from 1 of your older videos my long ass driveway backing down it takes some skills and time but even when I'm out on site I sit there and puff on my cigar ... I never let my tank get below ¾ unless I'm on a long trip...
Great video, you are spot on here, and I really like your third gen in the back ground!
Thanks buddy!
Great advise! I am already on the majority of that already. Thanks for the tips.
Excellent advice thanks -
What is your opinion/ recommendations regarding the use of cold weather grill cover ?
The biggest issue with not letting the oil cool down after driving under load or heavy is oil coking. (Coking, not cooking but basically cooks) The oil in your oil cooled turbos will sit and cook at higher temps and can turn to coke. (Not Colombian marching powder)
Yes! We actually just learned about this in our 4th year schooling. Of course that was after I made this video.
@@darkirondiesel ahh. Another thing I that I have learned is that with the high pressure fuel pumps (particularly in RAM trucks, and I have a ‘21 eco diesel Wrangler) they were having issues with asphaltenes building up in fuel tanks. They issued a service bulletin and always add diesel Kleen every other tank or so and recommend it. They were not getting bio sludge but asphaltene. I run DK every tank and aside from the first Regen at 490 miles (active) I have not had another active Regen come on in over 6k miles. I’m going to order the Banks derringer and gauge kit this week to monitor my EGt and turbo temps as well to try to keep the engine as healthy as long as I can. Maybe once warranty is expired I’ll come up to Canadia and get a delete from your freedom loving canucks.
Haha 😂 👍🏻
#9 something he forgot to add is that all the dirt heavy particles that are in your file tank always sit at the bottom of the fuel tank. You risk sucking up all that dirt
Great video! A lot of these things I do but some were good reminders to make a priority of. Good info, hope for more videos.
Thanks! It’s always good for a reminder here and there!
There should be a class that new vehicle owners go to. Most people don’t have a clue.My step grandfather never changed oil he just had someone check it and add if it was low.His car had 80,000 miles on it. The engine was completely worn out.
I know people like that too, they just don’t get it.
Some things that aren't common knowledge to new diesel owners...thank you!
You’re welcome!
Half the diesel market does not qualify for owning a diesel anyway . My truck is getting a transmission from putting in work not mall crawling lol
The three f’s. Fuel add a quality additive for both warm temps and winter temps, filters fuel filters about twice a year and air filter at least once a year and fluids, oil for engine, trans fluids, front and rear diffs, coolants, power steering fluid, break fluid. I really like the hot shots products for fuel and oil additives.
I like the hot shots a lot . Gets expensive on 3 semis and a pickup tho . Must have if you frequent the cold weather fuel/addi .
I check my fluids everyday, perks of hauling a work trailer all the time
Dot habit
New Diesel owners should be given a course on how to run and maintain their Diesel engines. Unlike the Mercedes driver who at -38C didn't plug it in and didn't let in it warmup. It got 1 block away before the engine seized.
You mentioned EGTs, the actual temp and not being able to monitor. My 19 L5P has 5 EGT sensors in different locations to monitor the temp through my banks I dash. When the trucks go into regen it’s pretty easy for them to reach high 1100 degree temp for 15-20 mins. Just on the newer trucks I’d say it’s been compensated for.
Good point, I have a bad habit of assuming everyone’s truck is deleted lol.
@@darkirondiesel I have an 08 Dodge with the Cummins 6.7. It is not deleted but I probably should have done that. I use a truck camper part of the time and tow a utility trailer a bit. What is the advantage for having a delete done? How expensive are they in your area.