13 ways you are KILLING your DIESEL truck
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 มิ.ย. 2024
- 13 things many people are doing that are damaging their diesel trucks. This is MY OPINION you may have a different one, that is ok.
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1 - 0:37 Keeping your truck clean
2 - 1:08 Changing fuel filter
3 - 1:55 Changing air filter
4 - 2:35 Changing oil
5 - 2:52 Preventative maintenance
6 - 4:00 Letting truck warm up
7 - 4:33 Letting truck cool down
8 - 5:26 Fuel quality
9 - 6:32 Low fuel levels
10 - 7:24 Checking EGTS
11 - 8:56 Cheap parts
12 - 9:52 Payload & towing capacities
13 - 10:50 Fixing problems promptly
And moste importandly never take DUI !
Life saver
this should be pinned
You the real MVP
Common sense isn't common anymore.
Haha no it definitely isn’t
H.o.g
Exactly
100%
I know right wtf🤦♂️
I'm on my first Diesel and your videos have been very helpful in getting me up to speed on what I need to do to keep my truck happy. I'll make it a point to drop in if I'm ever out that way.
Cheers from Vancouver!
Hey man been binging ur vids the last few days and I just realized ur at 9.94k subs and not 994k! You're making content at an awesome level and I love to see Canadian content on TH-cam (theres not enough!). Keep it up as the knowledge and effort you put in your vids is soon gonna start commanding the audience it deserves!
Thanks buddy I love getting comments like this! It fires me up and motivates me to keep making videos! I wish I was at 994k subs haha, maybe one day 🤞🏻
Firm believer in turbo cool off....I'm so glad you brought that to a point....warm up and cool down. I fill up at just above 1/4 tank....you can actually feel the difference Very good points!!!!
My fuel mileage drops as my fuel gets lower. I’m planning on installing a bottom feed for my airdog, but for now it’s sucking up to the top and back to the bottom. And I’m thinking if fuel mileage is affected, fuel pressure is lessened, working against the injection pump( 06, Cummins). The higher the pressure the quicker the burn (to a point anyways).
new sub...just ran across your channel and your rant is right on , being a diesel mechanic for over 40 years I agree with everything you said . number 9 , keep the fuel above 1/4 tank if your fuel pump ..lift pump..is in the tank ,the fuel keeps the pump cool , for me and my 6.7 I say 1/2 is empty.
Great informative video 👍 Awesome! Got a 2009 GMC HD 2500 Duramax Lmm and I have changed dif oils, transfer case, transmission and filters and upgraded to HSP Intake bundle, air dog lift pump 165 , fass filter delete and Kriptanite sway bar Links and bump stops 🏁 It's never run better! Yes brother 🏁
Good stuff, mostly common sense, but great to hear it. I appreciate your direct approach and not dragging on like so many You-Tubers. I'll happily subscribe. Keep it coming.
Thank you!
I’ve always been a stickler for doing maintenance on my vehicles. I had only gotten down to 70% on my oil and it had been eight months and couldn’t stand it and had to change it. My preferred oil is Valvoline full synthetic made for a diesel 1030 weight. I never let my fuel get below 3/4 but that could also lead to having an old fuel issue. Since the last time we talked, my truck is running the way a diesel should be running. Take that for what it’s worth. Love ya brother. Great channel.
The biggest reason to "warm down" the engine, is to prevent coking in the center bearing of the turbocharger. The problem is, the exhaust gas heats the manifold and the turbine housing to high enough temperatures, that it can heat soak and burn the oil in the center bearing of the turbo. That carbon jams up the bearing, and at the very least, makes it not spin freely. Your performance becomes sluggish, because of the increased "turbo lag". If the turbo doesn't spool up as soon as it's supposed to, you generate a lot of soot ("roll coal") and it doesn't take long to stuff up a diesel particulate filter, if equipped. That forces more regeneration cycles, which are only marginally effective in the long run. A restricted DPF increased EGT!!!
Also excessive heat can bend shafts if part of has oil and part of it doesn't. A common problem with turbo prop aircraft engines.
I like how you get right into it! Greetings from Calgary!
Thanks! Can’t wait for stampede this year 🤞🏻
#9 - low fuel - more important than even sucking in air, the in-tank fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel in the tank. Running tanks low makes the fuel pump temp go up. I lost one in a gasser and now don't let the fuel run very low on anything (well, maybe my CJ, as there's no in-tank fuel pump, lol).
lots of great info in this video - truly one of the best
I was so waiting for adding a fuel pressure gauge on the list. It all makes sense.
Excellent info. I hope this video reaches a lot of people.
Great video, you are spot on here, and I really like your third gen in the back ground!
Thanks buddy!
This is a great video. I just got a 7.3 powerstroke excursion for my first diesel back in February and this video has a lot of good information in it.
Make sure you high idle warm up after about 15-30 seconds of idle when cold. Also these motors love good oil, they start and idle happier
Great video! A lot of these things I do but some were good reminders to make a priority of. Good info, hope for more videos.
Thanks! It’s always good for a reminder here and there!
I am new to the diesel world. And these are all great tips thank you!
Great advise! I am already on the majority of that already. Thanks for the tips.
Hell yeah dude informative and straight to the point!
Thanks for posting. great summary of fundamental maintenance practices for new diesel drivers like myself. cheers
Great video man. I’m doing more of this right than I thought it was. You should make a video about your background and what got you into this stuff!
Hey that’s a good idea I’ll write that down in my video idea notes! Thanks!
@@darkirondiesel Anytime buddy! Looking forward to more uploads
I agree 100% I never let repairs stack up. It gives me confidence in the vehicle and it is kind of fun to do it. I always change fluids when I get the vehicle every single one even then brake fluid. These trucks can last forever and so can many vehicles when maintained.
Commenting for support. Keep the vids coming brother...
Thanks buddy I appreciate it!!
Awesome content man nicely done
Awesome tips man! Thanks for the video
Thanks buddy!
Yup, doing regular maintenance, keeping it really clean, let’s you catch leaks really early. Way before puddles form and failures ruin your bank account. When I got my 2nd gen Cummins 13 years ago I did oil testing for the first few years. I found that I got the longest change interval with Mobil 1 and the Bosch extra capacity filter for 5k miles. So every 5k miles I change the oil, rotate the tires, grease everything that has a zerk,clean the engine bay, blow out every crevice with compressed air, clean everything replace any bulbs, clean the wheels inside and out,etc. I tow a portable work shop so that gets the big maintenance to so it takes a day. I replace all parts with the best that the after market can provide so I can save the truck from its self. All the mods I’ve made is always with durability in mind. I’m a self employed carpenter. My shit breaks down, I can’t go to work, so however long the repair takes, I’m out a days wages ON TOP OF THE REPAIR COSTS. As well as now having to make many phone calls resetting my schedule of start and finish dates for my customers. I can’t get a ride to work with a buddy. The cheapest truck I can rent to pull my shop is $850 a week. So getting the best made parts is an INVESTMENT, the time spent keeping up the maintenance is an EASY INVESTMENT in comparison to a break down from negligence. After all anyone that buys a dodge is getting it for everything that’s NOT MADE BY DODGE(Cummins,Dana, American axles, new venture, Muncie, Bosch,etc)
I am a Hotshot driver and I cover all 48 states and Canada pulling a 40' flatbed. Maintenance is my #1 priority. I like your video and actually learned from it. I want to get 1,000,000 miles out of it. Should be do-able because it's a Ford F350 with a 6.7. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil designed for my specific use and recommended by a Mobil engineer. Your video is plain and simple and I like that.
Thanks buddy! I love the 6.7 powerstroke it’s a great engine!
im curious if it hangs in there. just got a Duramax 6.6 & wondering the same thing.
I have same engine, which Mobile one oil are you using?
i drill a 1/4" hole ion the inside of my box for oiling the wheel wells ,park with the front end down and oil the doors, pop the hood and oil the inside of the fenders. Prior to oiling I remove the taillights and wash out the wheel wells,inside fenders,doors and on my 2012 ram there is a vent in the back door where i can wash out the cab corners by inserting the washer in the vent,it also flushes out the rockers. I may start getting the KROWN treatment too
Nice video! Keep up the great work!!!
Thanks brother
I always check my tire pressure in my air...😂
Haha you’re the first person to comment on that 😂
Good video man. Love the canadian content! Keep it up bro
Thanks bro, still like me if I told you I was a ski-doo guy?
@@darkirondiesel ahhhhh ya that's ok
All good advice for all types of vehicles
Excellent content... great advice.
Excellent advice thanks -
What is your opinion/ recommendations regarding the use of cold weather grill cover ?
Agree 100% with 1/4 tank meaning empty. Learned that along time ago with semis. Pull a grade and you can run out. Keeps some of the sludge out of the system as well.
Awesome advise . You are a constant pro
I do like that you mentioned payload. In the RV towing world there are Way too many people with Diesels that cannot actually handle the pin weight. Great example is a Ram 2500 Crew Laramie, when fully equipped it has less than 1800lbs of payload, 5er's easily exceed that even for small ones. The base tradesman 2500 in that same platform can only do 2100lbs, after you account for the people in the truck, ill be modest at 150lbs per person, a family of 5 is 750lbs, hitches way between 180 and 300lbs, leaving around 1000lbs payload for the 5er's tongue weight. I went from a RAM 1500, to a 3500 DRW for payload and stability, my travel trailer is only around 12000lbs (about 2500lb TW) there are no 2500's that can carry my family and the trailer in Diesel.
Easy fix, just leave some of the "family" at home, leave all the liquid "beverages" at home.
Of course, by this time, you've left everyone at home so you won't be driving anywhere.
Exercise more frequently perhaps, lol jkjk
Im one of those ungifted people. spent 4 years in the USMC trying to gain... trainers, special diets... got stronger but no bulk :D@@BrandonSalas-us8mm
All good stuff. The problem is that people buy diesels to be “cool” and use them as they were driving a gasser and grocery getters. Two things I hate hearing the most are my fuel mileage sucks and it’s so expensive to own a diesel. I do not drive a diesel for fuel mileage and definitely not cheap to drive. I drive one for when I’m needing to pull my trailers, bumper pull or gooseneck, I do not have to worry as much as a 1/2 ton. Maintenance is key on all vehicles but diesel cost more. There’s a couple of things on your list I’m needing to get into keeping up with maintenance on my diesel. Which are the differential oil. I’m guilty of letting it go way over the recommended time to change.
Great information brother!
Thanks buddy!
Hey. Wow. Found you. I have a 95 ram 3500 and a 30 foot gooseneck. But I want to pull heavier. So I just bought a 2011 f 550. Don't even have it yet.
I operate a tower crane and the maintenance is critical. I'll be bringing my cordless grease gun down Monday.
Great video. You got a subscriber from Vancouver.
Cheers. ic.
Good advice, I recently got a 2020 ram Cummins amazing trucks
Good list , been doing most of these on the li
very good advice, my limit is half a tank
Thank you for this video I am a new diesel owner.
Good honest suggestion.
yes my dad has a 2000 7.3 and he has a pyro, it has helped a lot and kept the heads and exhaust from melting
Thanks you on the great info👍
Great Video! The only thing I would add is BRAKE system maintenance. MOST people have a diesel truck because they NEED it for towing. Make sure your brake system is ready to handle the extra load if the brakes on the trailer you're towing were to fail. Also a well maintained brake system will help you get better fuel mileage... a dragging brake can cost you 2-3 mpg easy!
You're right with one thing: brake maintenance. But your wrong on another thing: most people have diesel's because they think it's cool, not because they actually tow.
@@mikeofthemountain9865 Sad but true!
Awesome video! I'm from sask as well!
I change my fuel filters often. Especially before the onset of winter and in the spring.
I just subbed you dude looking forward to more content. I drive a 2010 2500 ram, an have always changed oil at 5k, air filter@10k or sooner, fuel @ 15k, anything mine needed, it got, mainly dealer repairs only, never any outside of any dealer shops, mainly because of all the sensors an computers that run it, an she is bone stock, all OEM, with no mods at all. But I bought it to pull a TT around the USA for the last 10 yrs, now she is retired from work, but its all I ever wanted in a truck, so I'll keep it as my daily driver now, an my hunting/ fishing truck. Mite put a leveling kit on it, as its nose down profile bugs me, an I mite put some 33 in sneakers on her so I don't get stranded in the mud/ sand of Fla. But thats it for mods, thx for the vid
That's a great garage building you have there. I'm planning on something like that. What is the floor size?
The 2.8dmax has a factory egt sensor in the egr. It works really good just need a obd2 scan tool to monitor
I pull a 42 foot fifth wheel with my old F350. Water methanol injection has been a lifesaver when towing up big mountains here in CO.
In addition to the block heater I have installed a low watt heater in the trans pan and a trickle charger to keep the battery at full charge, these are all wired together. When I get up in the morning I plug it in so that when I leave everything is nice and warm!!
That’s an awesome idea!
Smart.
New to the channel. I like that blue 5.9! Going to watch more vids now
Thanks buddy! I’ll be pumping more videos out shortly, just in my last year of school right now so busy studying for my journeyman’s test on Friday, then back to making content!
I change my oil probably more often than it needs, but I don’t use synthetic oil. I just buy my oil in 5 gallon buckets from tractor supply
Ounce of prevention is cheaper than a pound of cure. Great tips and reminders DID. Cheers.
Every thing you have said makes a lot of sence.
thanks for sharing !
It was once suggested to me to use marine grade grease in front suspension and universal joints.
Awesome video man thank you
Duramax owner here
Thanks buddy!
#13 pierced the heart.
Great video! I’ve also heard about changing the crankcase filter every 100,000 km or so, it doesn’t say anywhere in my owners manual to do. I have a 2010 Dodge Ram 3500 dually
Hey yup that’s part of the regular maintenance. You should get a code on your dash that says “perform service” every 100k ish. That’s when you know it’s time.
I have an 08 Dodge with the Cummins. I change the crankcase filter (the one on top) every 30,000 miles since it easily gets gunked by the oil. I also changed where the filter ends. I plugged the line going into the turbo and added a new throwaway filter to the hose coming out the back of the filter housing. Keeps the turbo much cleaner and the truck runs better. (The "book" says to change the filter every 60,000 miles (~100,000 km) but I found it's much better to change it at the 30,000 mile (50K km) interval.
where did you get you mud guards or mud flaps? I like them .
I agree with all 13. Number 13 is a real pieve of mine. When ppl say, "nahhhh, its okay for now" then cry cuz they don't have the money to fix the train of broken pieces. Rrrrrrrr
Love my Canadian diesel brothers in the north,,,Cheers from the U>S
Thank you!
I've always done my air filter (changed to a knn) I always warm up bc deisal runs on compression.i always greas too but never even thought about fule filter every service. Thank you man
I change my fuel filters every 30k miles on my 6.7 powerstroke
7.3 powerstroke, oil changed every 3k, fuel filter ever 3k. Flush the coolant every now and then. Pour some hot shots secret in the crankcase and fuel tank every so often. It'll run forever.
@@jamiepippin3892 on the 6.7s Ford recommends changing both fuel filters every 30k miles. But obviously it wouldn’t hurt to change them more often. And if I follow the intelligent oil life monitor, I change the oil every 8k miles. I use synthetic 5W-40 or synthetic 15W-40 depending on if it’s dead summer or colder
Every May and November I do my maintenance.
Oil, all filters, tire rotation. Without exception. Costs a lot, but I spend a lot more on stupid shit throughout the year than what my mx costs are.
That’s good though, will save you money in the long run trust me! Most of the big repairs I do could have been prevented by better maintenance.
Iam looking for fuel when I hit the half tank mark. I always emphize that to friends and family, because you never know when you might get stranded for awhile. It happened in Atlanta a couple times during ice storms. It happened around DC just this last winter during a snow storm.
Definitely some great tips. I just picked up a very clean 2011 Ram 3500. Question on the fuel additives, How often do you use them?
I like to run fuel additives in each tank. Usually you only need an ounce or two for a full tank of fuel.
Don’t buy power service it’s overpriced junk run hot shots secret edt
Add another one especially DPF, DEF, and EGR.....don’t over idle. The more you idle the more you clog up EGR, intake valves and EGR valve and body. Also the compressor side of the turbo is contaminated with engine blow by oils and exhaust side coated with excessive carbon. Also if cylinder temps get too low from over idling the rings become varnished and the blow by increases causing oil diluted by unburnt raw diesel blowing by the rings into the crankcase.
Another great video
Thanks buddy I appreciate it 👊🏻
always get that good ol' co-op saskatchewan diesel. i dont mean pilsner but i fill myself personally with that as well
Can you do a video on high stall and low stall torque converters and what is best for my daily drive 1997 Ram 2500? It has the stock high stall converter and I hate it.
Well done man
Thank you
What about the grid heater bolt? Nothing to worry about or delete?
Do you recommend coating the undercarriage for rust prevention from salt ?
I had a service manager tell me that I should always turn on my exhaust break when I am driving to avoid having to repair my exhaust system. Also, another thing that gets neglected is the transfer case. I am new to owning a diesel and I recently discovered that it should be serviced about every 60k. I love your tips in this video and do most of them already. Thank you!
Like maybe if your doing some heavy work with it check the fluid wouldn't be a bad idea at 60,000km but I'd not expect to have to change it out till 90,000 even as a heavy work vehicle (welding rigs). Same with your diff fluid, things have come a long long way since the 90's.
I have an 08 Dodge 2500 with the Cummins 6.7; I service it myself and keep a maintenance record for everything done to the truck. One thing, besides the book, is to change all the fluids according to the manual (except the filter on top which is changed at 30,000 miles). I also change the brake and power steering fluids since they don't last as long as some people think. An easy way to keep on top is to make a checklist you keep handy so you can track what needs to be done and when. Good luck.
@@frogger2011ify I would say for your transfer case it depends on how often you run 4wd. If you're driving around in 4 wheel drive you're probably gonna put more stress on it but if you're not or if you're doing mostly highway driving it may not be a big deal. My thing is though, if you're spending 20-30k dollars on a decent used diesel and 50-100k dollars on a new one, are you really that concerned about a hundred bucks in fluid or whatever the cost is? Some of these guys are financing trucks at over a 1k dollars a month and they're like 'I can get another 30k miles out of this tranny fluid!' that cost them a couple hundred dollars lol. I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 3500 HD CCLB SLE 4x4 6.0l gasser and at 32k miles I swapped very fluid from what it came with to Amsoil. So transmission, front and rear differential, transfer case and I have all Almosil engine coolant but I just need to stop being lazy and take it in to the dealer so they can drain it and put the Amsoil in. And I've been running Amsoil Engine oil since like 15k miles or so. It's not cheap to do but another 50k dollar truck isn't cheap either and with the regulations especially on the diesels these days, if you have an older truck with no emissions it's very advantageous to keep it running because eventually it'll be illegal for people to sell old parts to them and there's gonna be no option to just go buy a new truck without emissions, as far as the engine and components in it go anyway. Just like anything though, keep up on it and do it earlier than you have to and it'll run like new for basically ever.
Thanks for the information
No problem buddy
@@darkirondiesel just got my order in of Amsoil for my oil change, did the rear diff and replaced the the diff cover with a Banks and replaced the fluid with Amsoil diff fluid, so needless to say I’ll be running Amsoil throughout the truck, still need to do the front diff
I have a 2018 Cummins with 19,901 miles and I was wondering if I should do a delete on it? I’m planning on keeping it and doing some upgrades like a 8.4 apple car play radio and some custom seats and a carli suspension lift and 37s would it be beneficial to delete if I plan on keeping it long term or should I just leave it stock?
Great video
Online parts don't equal bad parts... it's the brand. You can buy awesome brand name parts online and crap parts at automotive stores.
Not only letting it cool down for what you said but when you shut it off the oil isn’t going to things like the turbo anymore and if it’s still spinning like if you were just towing hard and it’s still spinning a little then it spins dry if you don’t let it idle before shutting it off
Is 30 seconds long enough to cool down after a long run with a 3200# load?
Harry lol I’d wait atleast 1 min
@@nick7.398 Thanks! The manual for my truck didn't say anything about the time.
Lifting your truck and adding bigger tires and wheels is very hard on your truck and will cause it to wear out faster
😂
Too late
I do all of the above. Regarding warm up, I get it up to 1100 to 1200 rpm. Makes for less fuel condensation on cylinder walls. Rpms are always better than high egts so downshift one gear when towing. And last the thing that really baffles me are the idiots that let their trucks idle for extended periods. Occasionally I'll try to explain the principle of oil fuel dilution and engine bearing wear but it usually only elicits a blank stare.
Yup , the low idle isn't good for any engine but it's a death sentence for emissions
You mentioned EGTs, the actual temp and not being able to monitor. My 19 L5P has 5 EGT sensors in different locations to monitor the temp through my banks I dash. When the trucks go into regen it’s pretty easy for them to reach high 1100 degree temp for 15-20 mins. Just on the newer trucks I’d say it’s been compensated for.
Good point, I have a bad habit of assuming everyone’s truck is deleted lol.
@@darkirondiesel I have an 08 Dodge with the Cummins 6.7. It is not deleted but I probably should have done that. I use a truck camper part of the time and tow a utility trailer a bit. What is the advantage for having a delete done? How expensive are they in your area.
Great tips
Also, what EGT gauge would you recommend? One for a Cummins that has been corrected to the preferred running order…..if you catch my drift.
Run it hard that’s what diesels are meant for and there good for the engine keeps all the soot and gunk out of the heads... if it has a dpf system running it hard will also cause less dpf regenerations
Wouldn’t running it hard clog the dpf faster since there’s more soot going to the particulate filter?
@@adenseay7406 it does, I have a 2012 f450 6.7L PowerStroke cab and chassis when I run it hard like at dead stops I put the pedal to the floor and let off once I get to the speed I need to get to, and when I do get regenerations while I’m driving I run it harder so it cleans it better diesels aren’t meant to be babied there meant for towing and meant to be run hard. But since it’s a cab and chassis it’s gearing is low and is detuned that’s why I have a sct flash tow tune on mine without the tune it’s stupid slow and can’t go over 80mph and sometimes on the highway I need to go 90mph with a 25 foot gooseneck trailer
I have a 3.2 diesel in my transit with a 10 foot contractor box on the chassis. With that 5 cylinder engine I am able to work it hard enough with highway driving that my regens are maybe 10 seconds and probably mandatory from the factory tunes due to milage. If you have a dpf diesel it has to be worked to keep the egt high enough to clean the dpf.
@@isaacwais9810 I’m about to delete my 16 lml duramax
@@adenseay7406 just get a minimax tuner for the delete and egr delete it too it’s worth it in the long run I can’t legally delete my truck because of the dot numbers and the truck can’t be rolling coal in a fleet of trucks it’s a company vehicle and the fines for that are very high if you get caught for having a deleted truck in a fleet and for having dot numbers that’s why the 7.3 powerstrokes are really reliable they have no restrictions what so ever on that engine
Over-inflation of tires is very common. When I'm travelllng light, pumping up tires to 50/50 or 50/80 (factory sticker) when running empty payload produces a rough ride and excess center-wear on tires, and some handling issues (wandering). I use the Michelin tire axle weight chart (found on-line) that shows correct pressures to use based on the weight on the tire size, rim size, and (you can use for any tire brand) fixes these issues. My empty 2005 GMC 3/4 ton Duramax weighs 7,200 with me in it, so I run 41 psi front tires, and 34 psi rear tires. Tire wear is even, ride is comfortable, and much less harsh than the GM recommended pressures for that weight (50/50). My axle weight is 4,000 lbs. front and 3,000 lbs. rear when 1-person and empty bed. My tire size is (Cooper AT3) 265/70E-16 with stock 7-inch wide rims. Also, when you run wider than stock tire sizes, you should drop the pressure, shown on Michelin chart, because load carrying is increased due to more air volume in the tire.
This is like beginners guide to diesel trucks.. and this applies to most vehicles really if you're not keeping up with maintenance dont own a vehicle
What headlights are those??? They look great
The brand is called Spyder I got them off eBay
New Cummins on its way!! Should I delete immediately or wait till warranty is over? Any suggestions would be helpful.
What can i do to mitigate the effects of short running ?
I generally fill up when it’s down to a half or a 1/3 of a tank max
I am disappointed that trucks don’t have fuel filters with water traps like farm tractors do.
Night tour 2 days before you go on days off ! Make sure you don't forget to fuel up the pushers truck lol
Where did you get your mud guards? Those are exactly what I’ve been looking for.
My mud flaps? They are common around here. They are called Husky Liners.