I have an engine block heater plus I have an oil pan heater I put on the fuel filters so the fuel can circulate so it dosent blow the fuse on my lift pump till the lift pump heater can get things warm enough to keep the pump housing warm
Well just one more reason to not have def on your truck. Mine fell off one day when I was changing my oil. Not sure what happened. But it runs so much better now. lol
I have a LML Duramax, on a cold start glow plugs will come on, engine will start then the intake heater will come on for emission purposes for 1 or 2 minutes. I keep my truck in the garage so no ice or snow, I plug it in 1 to 2 hrs before I need it. I have the stock block heater, oil pan heater pad and transmission pan heater pad. I also use the grill cover that came with the truck. I run T6 0w-40 oil in the winter months, back to 5w-40 in warmer weather.
For newer trucks watch your voltmeter. The glow plugs stay on for a minute or two to minimize white smoke. Wait until your voltmeter rises back to normal before driving.
I tell everyone to keep their diesels plugged in when it's freezing outside. But I've been building engines for over 40yrs and I also strongly suggest warming up the engine before they're driven. After working on and maintaining many company vehicles over the years, there's a definite increase in the number of downed trucks when they just hop in them and leave. You can look at my records and see the companies who warm-up their engines, have less maintenance cost and less expensive rebuilds. This video seems like an ad to push their heat generator and put out propaganda. An upper cylinder lubricant like marvel mystery oil is a great product. I've heard a lot of people don't like it but as an engine builder, I can tell the difference when it's used religiously.
As an Albertan I like new ideas like this lol. I’ve wondered about cylinder wash but In my head I figured it was just that first few seconds before the truck bumps itself up to 900rpm. I know when it’s below 0° C the truck will close the veins to 95% and bump the idle to 1150rpm (with elevated idle selected). Then the truck will warm up faster than when driving, I don’t let it sit for any more than 10ish minutes but it certainly takes a long time to warm up at -35C… neat product!
If cold starting is that much of an issue, i feel like that would have been a problem that was solved a long time ago. Now all of a sudden trucks that dont have this heat generator are going to have excessive wear if they dont install something like this on it? I'm more on the skeptical side here. Also, you're supposed to warm up your engines so that the heat doesnt expand the seals and o-rings too quickly causing leaks and what not, unless theres something there that I'm missing. Either way I just don't totally trust this
This stuffs a gimmick. If cold starting was this big of a problem, these engines would not last 300,000-700,000 miles & more before rebuilds. Start the truck, let the oil circulate for a few minutes and drive it.
@PndaS2k I don't want to totally discredit the idea, I'm sure there is merit to the topic but I don't think it's as major of an issue as it seems to be in the video
I have a block heater and engine oil pan heater. In -45 temps my truck starts fine. I plug the truck in minimum 4 hours before starting . I let it idle for a few minutes then start driving . I put a lot of miles on my diesel engines with not issues.
If you live in the northernmost part of the country you should be plugged in in the coldest part of the winter Or at least running 5w40 or 10w30 full synthetic oil. Cold start it , ramp it up to 1200 rpm after 30 seconds and let it run 3 minutes or so , drive off gently.
I call BS on this product. Diesels have been around forever and most people do let them idle to warm up for 20min or so in cold climates. Nobody is gernading motors at 50-100k miles. My 06' LBZ Duramax with 131k miles has never had a problem and I haul heavy 10k#+ loads when used.
I agree. I’ve had tractors from the early 60s with a circulation heater for the coolant. They used to cost about $30 and were incredibly easy to install. They would start just like it was 80 degrees out.
A fully warmed up diesel that is left to idle will actually cool down. The diesel engine really won't get to operating temperature if left idling from a cold below freezing start. Covering the radiator can help a little. A cold engine also means a cold transmission especially with a transmission cooler. If your cold they are cold, bring them inside. 😂
When I was in the army 50+ years ago, we didn't have or use ether or glow plugs, we soaked a rag in diesel fuel \, set it on fire, and held it close to the air cleaner while someone cranked it. The heat helped start the engine.
You should also do some research on oil pressure accumulators for cold starts as well as top end cylinder lubricants for cold starts. The accumulators hold about a quart of oil under pressure and charge the oil system on startup. The mechanism is a little complicated and tricky to set up, but actually primes your oil passages with the glow plug relay. The top cylinder lubricant is fogged in with the first crank of the engine only at what ever temperatures you program in. I had a customer with a fleet of buses and he had these systems on them. Several of them had several million miles on the engines.
This is kind of what I've noticed with my truck. Its older with a few non-urgent issues that I haven't addressed for years. The only real solution to defog the interior on winter/rainy days is to drive. Idling doesn't do much
In Saskatchewan, plenty of -30c cold starts, I utilize elevated idle (different then the high idle activated by cruise control button if optioned for it). Truck starts and runs for 1 minute, then closed the veins and goes up to 850rpm and whistles like a jet (deleted), then after another minute up to 1050rpm with veins closed. It runs 30% engine load and injection timing is altered with the trans input shaft spinning so it creates drag and warms the transmission too. I don’t move my truck until elevated idle has kicked off automatically, come out side to a warm cab, trans and engine are at 153farenhieght and I drive away after 15 mins of it screaming
@@Oliver0200 elevated idle is a factory setting that can be enabled or disabled on the dash menu. High idle is also an option from factory and can be programmed in the by the dealer where you can set the park brake and set your cruise in park and it will idle up to 1200rpm for PTOs and things. This doesn’t build heat as well as elevated idle, but does keep your oil pressure up if you had to idle all day. Some aftermarket tuning offers high idle options etc depending on the application
My 2011 lml I bought at 80xxx miles. I cold started that truck all winter, and either took off right away, or it sat and idled. It had 380xxx miles on it when I sold it. My 2015, same thing. I sold that with 180k miles. Now my 2020 , same deal. It now has 101k, and plan on keeping this till who knows when.. truck prices and interest rates are INSANE !
I expect you're aware, but it should be noted when talking about glow plugs that Cummins doesn't use them, they use an intake grid heater. FWIW, most Cummins will cold start without a grid heater down to -20F or even lower. Also since the Ram has electric cabin heaters, the only reason to idle once high idle kicks in, is for defrost. More regens does not equate to DEF usage. They are separate systems. DEF is injected into the SCR to reduce NOx and has no relation to soot accumulation in the DPF or EGR system. Otherwise, good video on the harmful effects of cylinder wash.
I had my LBZ on a timer (block warmer) that would warm it up for 4 hours before I left for work. I had a short commute so I mainly wanted it to be able to warm and thin the oil out a little quicker on cold starts. But I didn’t run the LBZ much when it was cold anyway, as soon as the oil pressure came up it was down in drive 😂 I just didn’t care after a while. Rest of the truck was rotting out around the driveline.
at -50c in canada my lml i drove 8 hours and halfway through stopped for a drink and bathroom break and it was running and had 0 coolant temp. we bought 12v heaters for the cab lol on the way back i was hauling a 6.5 my buddy bought and hauled back id like to point out nobody mentioned a webasto or esbar heater.
In Europe they use diesel heaters plumed into the cooling system. Preheats the engine before start and also provides a warm toasty cabin within minutes.
The duramax high idle uses the torque convertor to create engine load. Its like putting it in drive and putting your foot on the brake and hitting the throttle. Creates heat fast
Also individual glow plugs continue to run on/off for a bit even after the engine has started...the ECM and glow plug control module are smart enough to see how “hot” each cylinder is during a cold start, if it sees one cylinder is colder during cold start and isn’t firing completely due to the cold, the ECM will command the glow plug just for that cylinder to stay on longer to help that cylinder heat up and run better on its own. It's pretty smart and some tuners ruin this feature.
Good information. Simply put, " wet stacking ". No load with extended idle time. I can attest the increased soot levels in my L5P because of winter idle time. Definitely not good for our " government emission diesels".
Holy Moses, thank you for coming across this! In Utah we get some pretty cold days. I’d consider putting that on my 96 Chevy K1500 because it does take a while to get to temp.
Ventech = $2500 Block Heater = $60 Grill cover = $85 Block heater (BH) heats up the coolant to approx 100F @ 32F ambient and 72F at 0F which helps with startup. Ventech does nothing for startup With a starting temp of 100F (BH) vs 32F the block heater gets the engine to temp in the same amount of time. During extremely cold weather driving a grill cover costs $85 keeping engine temp optimal.
Ya but all these items besides the ventech require input/actions from the owner/operator, someone needs to plug it in, put the cover on etc.. as your aware people are getting lazier and dumber where the ventech has its own brain so they make sense in alot of applications
@@Liimpy True, LOL But the video is about cold starts which the Ventech does nothing to help with cold starts all it does is make the heater warm up faster. LOL
Our cold season only gets to 0 for the coldest. Every now and then it will drop in the negative temps. We have the opposite issue, the older non emission diesels won’t keep up to operating temps. The emission equipped diesels all warm up quickly and maintain operating temperature perfectly even when they idle for 20-30 minutes. Some people I know who have deleted their diesels have issues keeping temperature and have to run grill covers.
Well TM I'm definitely guilty of letting my 08 gmc idle for at least 30 minutes on cold mornings by the time i get in my truck it's nice and toasty warm in the cab👍🏿 , but for me personally i just hate getting in a cold truck
Okay good question since you have a l5p you probably noice your oil gauge pegging out on cold mornings right? Are you comfortable getting in it and immediately driving it sending that oil psi to 120? Or let it idle for a 3-4 minutes to bring it back down a little? One small thing i noticed on my l5p.
I have a mechanical gauge on my 12 valve Cummins that tops out at 75psi. On cold starts that needle SLAPS the little peg at the far end of the gauge. God knows what the actual pressure is. It doesn't come off that peg for a good while too. I baby it until the temps reach about 160. The box truck I took it out of had 501,000 miles on it, still had the cross hatch on the cylinder walls. And I imagine this engine has seen thousands of cold starts. Still chugging along happy as can be.
^^^ THIS. Oil pressure is why I let my 2015 LML warm up for a few minutes. I live just off a State Highway with 65 MPH speed limit. No way I am jumping out on that and mashing the throttle. Cold start idle pressure is at 90 PSI. If I get in and drive, it quickly pegs the gauge at 120. Anybody ever try pouring oil out of the jug when it is at zero degrees? Imagine forcing that thick honey through main & rod bearings with 0.003 inch clearances. So you might be saving your cylinders, and wearing out your bearings by driving off in frigid weather.
@@Bloodbain88I've seena 100psi guage peg out on a 02 Cummins on idle in the cold. That same truck pushes 30 psi on idle hot. Personally I'll let it run for 15 mins
Hey, battle on another topic. We should talk about engine harnesses and what to look for on Fraying and rubbing on components.and how to prevent it And how it can affect your engine. Just spent 2 full days pulled my harness and went through it found my shorts that burnt up my ficm.
I installed an espar hydronic on my Volkswagen diesel. I come out in the morning and my water temp is about 140 to 150, even when the air temp is -20, i never have to cold start it now.
When temps drop low -15F (-26C) my 32 Year old Diesel Hilux sounds a lot less cranky when cold starting compared to the missus 2008 Toyota Estate diesel.
Hello Josh. It's great that you've done a lot of research on this subject. I've got a question. Do your diesel trucks have a plug to plug them into electricity?
If you have a real diesel engine, it won't need glow plugs to get it running in cold weather. If a diesel engine has enough compression it'll start in cold weather. If the oil you use in your engine isn't leaving behind a protective film of oil on the cylinder walls you need to change to an oil that does.
I always plug My vehicle's in Anything below 0 Celsius it's plugged in But I don't leave it plugged in all night long I have it on a timer set it 2 hours before I go to work that's plenty of time.
I idle my 5.9 cummins 15 minutes twice a day in cold weather. Also it’s a plow truck. It sees plenty of idle time. The truck has 200,000 miles on it now and absolutely no blow by. My point is- the truck is healthy and idling this much is not a problem. So, at what point is idling a problem? 1 hour? 2 hour?
Here’s the reality. - GM, Ford and Ram want you to get in and drive your vehicle right away because the Emissions systems are garbage. The faster you warm up could mean fewer emissions problems down the road. IE the car manufacturer wants to save cost on warranty on the emissions. - GM, Ford and Ram do not care about longevity of your motor. All they care about is getting you past warranty. This is why they don’t care if you drive when your vehicle isn’t warm yet. - IMHO diesels should necessarily be driven until the coolant gauge has moved a bit. Maybe 90-100°. Manufacturers of large diesels even recommend not going into high range until above 150° - here’s another factor. Oil pressure. I don’t even move my high idle until my oil pressure has settled at operating PSI. - proving that there’s engine damage, that will cause a failure, by warming up your diesel is nearly impossible to prove. I work in the oilfield and all our pick ups have long idle hours yet most of them go 400-500,000kms. Gas and diesel. Moral of the story is emissions is garbage and it’s the reason modern diesels suck.
Yup, mostly a city folk issue. I factored in the fact that I live 4km off a 110k/hr highway and drive 30 minutes to work. Short city trips are the worst for engine longevity.
Why you dont use diesel heater like Webasto or Eberspächer? You can preheat the engine and cabin and use it while driving to heat up more quickly. Some diesel engines cant even keep the operating temperatures while driving without it. I also dont understand the fear of block heaters. Where I live I think I have never heard of those get in fire. And we use those plug (or oil pan) heaters a lot here.
so what should I do with an 03 LB7 duramax (pre-emissions)? Im in Canada, I run a block heater, should or should I not let the truck run for a few minutes before driving?
I love your content and how you dive deep into things. I’m looking into buying a newer diesel truck 2017+. I didn’t see one but I was curious if you had a video along these lines of things to prolong the life of these newer diesel trucks. If not a video like that would be greatly appreciated!
True that lmao radiant floor heating FTMFW! I spent far too many years rolling in mud puddles, or slush. Not to mention my vehicles rust to crap because for 7 months a year it's covered in salt and frozen road grime. Now just let it melt and squeegie it down the drain.
Im sure that product has its helpful uses in certain applications but i dont see it being worth it for the money over a block heater and grill cover. With outside temps around 0f to even - 30f, my block heater will get the engine to 80f within about +/- 4hrs of being plugged in in those temps. And if my grill cover is installed, the entire engine bay stays at around 40f-50f. Most trucks now like mine also have factory elevated idle that turns on automatically to help get it up to temp faster. I think that is sufficient enough heat for the oil and coolant to be healthy for the engine block and cylinder walls during cold start and warm up that it is not worth buying that heat generator. But again for certain applications.
Idk, my 18 ram goes from 28 degrees to 175 in about 8-10 minutes at high idle, it takes longer if you drive it because the pcm doesn’t use turbo to load the engine and build heat. But with that said, i know plenty of diesel engines that are 20 30 years old and run fine, imagine how many cold starts they had over the years and how many long hours of idle. I like the idea you’re selling but im not buying the reason. Lots of companies sell ideas and push them off as needed additional parts. Fact is my Cummins was built to work in extreme conditions and Cummins engineers agreed it would work in those conditions. They even stood behind it with a 100 thousand mile warranty. When I worked at the dealer we had a Cummins come in with a rod threw the block at 6 thousand miles, Cummins sent their own people to pick up the engine to find the issue, they said that never happens and shouldn’t happen and wanted to know why and how.
@truckmaster I've known about this pretty much my entire life, living a d working in Wyoming, especially having been a rental tech/mechanic for many years. I plug my trucks in, installed high idle on any that don't have it, have a fuel heater, winter front, and oil pan heater all on when winter hits. But i also know that isn't quite enough to keep at peak operating temp during long idle hours out on the job. So i was wondering if they had plans on having this available for the first gens of Duramaxes, as well as the well as the L5Ps?
I’m new to the diesel world. is it ok for your engine to make that noise when you start it. mine is making that same noise when it starts in the cold. The noise I am talking about is the first cold start on the red duramax
Hmmm I have never heard this problem before. Never seen a 12 valve Cummins or an old cat have an issue with this. Was it not a problem in the past or are we just now noticing?
Don’t think I need to worry about cold starting since I am four months down waiting for my TCM. While it is down I put both EGR valves on. Very depressing when you open the boxes that you got from GM and they say made in China. No more Duramaxs or GM for me.
Going to a Banana Oil Pan with a heater for my LML was the best thing I could do at the time I did it. Cold oil doesn't circulate very good. One reason why I changed the pan. I always get in mine and drive it soon after starting. Slow at first and gradually pickup speed.
I watched this this morning and have been pondering it and had to come back to comment! So why couldn’t you in colder weather just block off part of the radiator? Install a hotter thermostat? Why on these newer diesels have they ‘Overbuilt’ the cooling system? Or have they just engendered them to use more of the thermal heat for better efficiency thats why they cant get up to operating temps in cold weather? Sounds to me like a piece of card board in front of the radiator also known as a ‘weather front’. On my first gen 12v here in gunnison Colorado where it will het -30 for a few weeks out of the winter. I took off my and unbolted mechanical fan, completely rook it off. No fan. And blocked off half of the radiator with a piece of card board. Driving around town (a very small town) it doesn’t get hot and over heat. And with half of the radiator being exposed for highway speeds it allows just enough cooling that it wont over heat. It sounds to me like our govt oversight on diesel emissions had caused them to crank down on things to where they have had time make them use more of the thermal efficiency to get better emissions that they the engine itself isn’t storing some of that heat to warm itself up enough in colder climates. I don’t think you need to bolt another accessory (one that prolly costs $1000 or more) to the front of the engine. Sounds like One more thing to go wrong on an already complicated enough as it is durajunk engine, Not a very well engineered and thought out design. Everything is an after thought. Now that you all know my thoughts of a gm diesel, after working in a gm dealership for several years i don’t think to highly of them. Cummins all the way, nothing will ever compare to the simplicity, realizability, efficiency, torque, and power of a cummins. But thats but what this discussion is about. I don’t think adding and bolting on a heat generator is the solution, i really think they need to just go back to the drawing board and reengineer the thermal dynamics of the cooling system. How about a passive radiator or multi temp or variable thermostat? Im sure they could find some way to computer control and over complicate something simple, thats basically the duramax engine in its entirety, something way over complicated, under built of lightweight alumn, over controlled by sensors and modules, unreliable and isn’t built as an ‘industrial grade’ diesel engine.
20+ Duramax has dampers on the front that open close as needed to keep the engine at temp in cold weather: "There’s also an “ice mode” that activates when ambient temperatures fall below freezing. By working in conjunction with onboard sensors and a thermometer that monitors outside air temperature, ice mode prevents movement of the aero shutters until ambient temperatures rise above the freezing mark or until powertrain temperature has reached a healthy operating temperature" Pretty neat really, I had my truck for almost a year before I found out about this feature , I was just washing it and went to rinse the dirt from the radiator and I couldn't even see it, all the dampers were closed
Ya its a cool concept but my philosophy is keep it simple! What happens when them shutters get stuck in the closed position?! To many things to go wrong and fail. To many sensors and moving little plastic parts to break. All that moving shutters and stiff behind the grill makes it that much more expensive after a crash. Lol All these new trucks have just gotten nothing but cluttered and over loaded with gadgets and bells and whistles. I don’t need a shutter thats electronically controlled by a thermostat and the PCM to determine how much air flow to let in the front of the truck *eyeroll* . I get the theory and philosophy behind it to help warm it up faster blah blah blah. If i want to maintain a higher temp in -30 degree weather like here in gunnison colorado like it will typically get in jan, feb, ill out a pizza box inbetween the radiator and the intercooler, that way the intercooler still gets fresh cool air and the radiator is being blocked off, wither completely or partially depending on what I’m doing l. But hell i barely even drive my second gen HO 24v in the cold or the snow. Its a garage princess in its heated garage during the winter months. Just to many things to go wrong on these new trucks. They’ve gotten way to complicated that in 5-10 years when they are broken down and all the little plastic pieces have broken and sensors have stoped working, their isn’t going to be anyone that knows how to work on them, or wants to anyways. To many sensors, modules, to many cheaply made plastic parts and moving parts. 20 years from bow it’ll be interesting to see whats broken down on the side of the road because of a $15 emissions related sensor. Or a lot full of non running or drivable diesel duramax trucks because no one has the means, knowledge or capability to work on them. And the dealers all went under, no more OE support. Itll be real interesting. I know one thing, my all Mechanical p pumped HO 24v 6 speed Manual transmission truck will be driving down the road with no problems! I could even run it on waste oil motor, waste veggie oil, atf. If theres a diesel fuel shortage, no problem theres a lot of vehicles with engines and automatic transmissions will be sitting around with good burnable Oil in their engines! Try that with your 2020 dura-maxie pad truck. In all for keeping things simple, reliable, easy to maintain and fix. All this technology and sensors and modules and cheap plastic garbage isn’t making it easier on those of us that are technicians in the industry. Ive worked at the gm dealership, the dodge dealer, Been there done that. They aren’t going to get any better. We ad the consumer get what they cram down out throats. Take EV’s for example, bimbo biden and his democ-rat cronies cramming electric vehicles down our throats even tho its something we done need or want! Def, fluid now this is a funny one…it comes in a plastic jug that in a cardboard box. Wtf?!
Whatever you do don't break it off. Or you'll be looking at 30hrs of labor to pull the head to remove it possibly. Try getting the engine hot before trying again
@@agger838 I don't have a code on that glow plug so I could just leave it but since I changed all the others I wanted to keep it uniform. Based on the videos I have see with the air hammer tool I order, mechanics said it will save the headache and break free all the carbon causing it to be stuck. I have been moving slow with the ones that were hard. Kind of like when I changed the exhaust manifolds. The bolts took me a long time to get out but I was able to do it without out breaking any. I think if I had to pay for a broken one I would just get a new engine at that point.
@dustinryan9671 if u or a the mechanic breaks the glow plug they will try to weld a nut on if thy doesn't work they'll usually want to pull the head. I opted to roll the dice and drill mine out. I ruined the threads being off center. I then had to buy a time sert kit and that worked and saved my butt from probably buying a new head
Shoot HIGH IDLE warm up ? What’s that. Lol , once I did a high flow pipe kit Mine went away and never been able to get it back. Been all though my tune files I’m lost
I plug in my block heater overnight. In my garage. And it starts like normal. I live in Michigan as well, and when its cold, my engine temps dont get normal for 20 mins or so. I've seen people driving around with grill covers, how do you feel about those?
What is glazing? Is it when the cross hatching is polished away? I was always told that glaze is fuel that has deposited itself onto the walls as a film of enamel like glaze. If an engine does get glazed, what's the fix? Would the fix be invasive (removing cylinder heads, or the removing the entire engine)? I have a Cummins, but she's a show queen, about 200 miles per year. I have a Detroit Diesel that's my primary tow rig. It was originally a snow plow, with extended hours of idle time in frigid temps. When I got it, it'd smoke horribly, I was wearing a face mask long before the world event. After towing close to 100k miles with loads that frequently required Wide Open Throttle, that old clunker is now almost smoke free. I thought engines smoked worse with use, not less.
It might have been your piston rings got stuck on the pistons. Chances are that truck may have been sitting awhile before you got it. Piston rings are supposed to spin on the piston and push against the cylinder walls. Given' her the ketchup probably heated up the rings enough to burn off the carbon and break them loose. It could also be your valve stem seals. The can get dry and start letting oil by. Depending on the oil you run, it probably has an additive to revive seals.
I got a delima for u all 😅 i have the 2020 1500 lm2 and has active grill shutters so warms up quicker on its owen all together... and plugging in cant till 0 these hate it
Common rail Cummins and 6.7 Cummins boys have no issues been doing this for years and my trucks always have ran strong leave the poverty 2g 12v’s and 24’s out of the equation I went 6.7 Cummins and will never go back
Last year I got my first lly Duramax i don't know if age makes a difference or not but i did usually always had it plug in for 3 to 4 hours before cold start i would walk out on the morning start it woke and as I got dressed brush my teeth got ready for the day my truck would warm up for about 10 minutes i don't know if I destroyed my engine or not for letting it idel like that but live in Michigan where it get in the negative dagees and my dad wrecked one of his old diesel morters for driving in cold. My truck parked for winter cause up here in Michigan we get thousands of pounds of road salt that will rust a veichel to no end but if I ever drive it in winter again i might invest in one of these. I really Don't know what to do cause it running cold is horrible for engine but letting it idle sounds just as bad I've never ran into problems with my truck yet but thinking i should get one of these if i drive it in the winter again any advice would be appreciated man thank in advance
No glow plugs on a cummins it heats up intake air which is a way better than 8 glow plugs like a power stroke or GM don’t know why they don’t use the best way .
im in michigan just bought a lb7 wanting to do some mods wants some suggestions completly stock 130k miles except has old man wheels and tires on it what should i do to get mpg and how hard is it to do a 6 speed conversion on one of these trucks?
I'm still a little confused I live in socal it freezes over a little where I live is it ok to idle my truck for about 10 mins or does it harm it should I just start driving it a minute after I start it ????
It also depends if your truck has emissions equipment or not. If it’s got a DPF, as I’m sure you know, idle time clogs it up gradually, so make sure to start rolling as soon as possible. Also like the guest said in the video, diesels can’t warm up very well unless they’re under load.
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I have an engine block heater plus I have an oil pan heater I put on the fuel filters so the fuel can circulate so it dosent blow the fuse on my lift pump till the lift pump heater can get things warm enough to keep the pump housing warm
They I got a question about my lb7 duramax cold starting could we get in contact
Tttttttttt@@perryhanson7878
Short answer, no. Long answer, yes but everything has a lifespan. You can’t expect anything mechanical to last forever.
What model dmax is his red truck sounds crazy
cummins might argue that
Well just one more reason to not have def on your truck. Mine fell off one day when I was changing my oil. Not sure what happened. But it runs so much better now. lol
lmao
Ran over a speed bump and my fell off as well 🤷♂️
Mine had one on from the dealer, but then fell off in my driveway. They just don’t make things like they used 2 😪
I have a LML Duramax, on a cold start glow plugs will come on, engine will start then the intake heater will come on for emission purposes for 1 or 2 minutes.
I keep my truck in the garage so no ice or snow, I plug it in 1 to 2 hrs before I need it. I have the stock block heater, oil pan heater pad and transmission pan heater pad. I also use the grill cover that came with the truck.
I run T6 0w-40 oil in the winter months, back to 5w-40 in warmer weather.
For newer trucks watch your voltmeter. The glow plugs stay on for a minute or two to minimize white smoke. Wait until your voltmeter rises back to normal before driving.
What also is happening is the alternator is being commanded to not charge during initial startup to not load the engine down when cold
I tell everyone to keep their diesels plugged in when it's freezing outside. But I've been building engines for over 40yrs and I also strongly suggest warming up the engine before they're driven. After working on and maintaining many company vehicles over the years, there's a definite increase in the number of downed trucks when they just hop in them and leave.
You can look at my records and see the companies who warm-up their engines, have less maintenance cost and less expensive rebuilds. This video seems like an ad to push their heat generator and put out propaganda.
An upper cylinder lubricant like marvel mystery oil is a great product. I've heard a lot of people don't like it but as an engine builder, I can tell the difference when it's used religiously.
In the diesel world we call it wet stacking..there's a block heater and a plug for a reason...19 quarts of oil needs to stay warm...
As an Albertan I like new ideas like this lol. I’ve wondered about cylinder wash but In my head I figured it was just that first few seconds before the truck bumps itself up to 900rpm. I know when it’s below 0° C the truck will close the veins to 95% and bump the idle to 1150rpm (with elevated idle selected). Then the truck will warm up faster than when driving, I don’t let it sit for any more than 10ish minutes but it certainly takes a long time to warm up at -35C… neat product!
Our city has a 3-minute max idle time with fines of up to $600.00. Ya go figure that out backed by the Health officer. Clean air initiative.
I'm also in Alberta. That -45 and colder weather we had sure did a number on my '04 Yukon lol
@@KyleJewellyeah.. the ol lml didn’t shut off for pretty much four days lol. That wasn’t fun
@@dmaxman321 lol i hear ya. Just a little bit of cylinder washing going on
@@KyleJewellthat’s what they tell me
If cold starting is that much of an issue, i feel like that would have been a problem that was solved a long time ago. Now all of a sudden trucks that dont have this heat generator are going to have excessive wear if they dont install something like this on it? I'm more on the skeptical side here. Also, you're supposed to warm up your engines so that the heat doesnt expand the seals and o-rings too quickly causing leaks and what not, unless theres something there that I'm missing. Either way I just don't totally trust this
Yeah that guys just trying to sell
This stuffs a gimmick. If cold starting was this big of a problem, these engines would not last 300,000-700,000 miles & more before rebuilds. Start the truck, let the oil circulate for a few minutes and drive it.
@PndaS2k I don't want to totally discredit the idea, I'm sure there is merit to the topic but I don't think it's as major of an issue as it seems to be in the video
Good salesmen can sell ice to Eskimos
I hear what you're saying. My solution is plug them in, or better yet have a Webasto type heater on the engine and run full synthetic engine oil.
I have a block heater and engine oil pan heater. In -45 temps my truck starts fine. I plug the truck in minimum 4 hours before starting . I let it idle for a few minutes then start driving . I put a lot of miles on my diesel engines with not issues.
Great info
If you live in the northernmost part of the country you should be plugged in in the coldest part of the winter Or at least running 5w40 or 10w30 full synthetic oil. Cold start it , ramp it up to 1200 rpm after 30 seconds and let it run 3 minutes or so , drive off gently.
@@JohnDiMartino0w40 T6 year round and is great in winter.
I'm running 15w40 is that bad
5f to 20f
They make block heaters and anti-gel fuel additives for a reason! Use them!
They also make replacement oil seals....
I call BS on this product. Diesels have been around forever and most people do let them idle to warm up for 20min or so in cold climates. Nobody is gernading motors at 50-100k miles. My 06' LBZ Duramax with 131k miles has never had a problem and I haul heavy 10k#+ loads when used.
I agree. I’ve had tractors from the early 60s with a circulation heater for the coolant. They used to cost about $30 and were incredibly easy to install. They would start just like it was 80 degrees out.
A fully warmed up diesel that is left to idle will actually cool down. The diesel engine really won't get to operating temperature if left idling from a cold below freezing start. Covering the radiator can help a little. A cold engine also means a cold transmission especially with a transmission cooler. If your cold they are cold, bring them inside. 😂
😊
When I was in the army 50+ years ago, we didn't have or use ether or glow plugs, we soaked a rag in diesel fuel \, set it on fire, and held it close to the air cleaner while someone cranked it. The heat helped start the engine.
Thanks for sharing WOW! Sounds like a blast literally 😂 when I was in the Army we blocked the exhaust for back pressure and used ether
You should also do some research on oil pressure accumulators for cold starts as well as top end cylinder lubricants for cold starts. The accumulators hold about a quart of oil under pressure and charge the oil system on startup. The mechanism is a little complicated and tricky to set up, but actually primes your oil passages with the glow plug relay. The top cylinder lubricant is fogged in with the first crank of the engine only at what ever temperatures you program in.
I had a customer with a fleet of buses and he had these systems on them. Several of them had several million miles on the engines.
This is kind of what I've noticed with my truck. Its older with a few non-urgent issues that I haven't addressed for years. The only real solution to defog the interior on winter/rainy days is to drive. Idling doesn't do much
on a 7.3 the glow plugs stay on for 90sec so if u cycle the key more then once in 90 sec can make them over time melt and warp
In Saskatchewan, plenty of -30c cold starts, I utilize elevated idle (different then the high idle activated by cruise control button if optioned for it). Truck starts and runs for 1 minute, then closed the veins and goes up to 850rpm and whistles like a jet (deleted), then after another minute up to 1050rpm with veins closed. It runs 30% engine load and injection timing is altered with the trans input shaft spinning so it creates drag and warms the transmission too. I don’t move my truck until elevated idle has kicked off automatically, come out side to a warm cab, trans and engine are at 153farenhieght and I drive away after 15 mins of it screaming
Is that a factory setting or aftermarket add on?
@@Oliver0200 elevated idle is a factory setting that can be enabled or disabled on the dash menu. High idle is also an option from factory and can be programmed in the by the dealer where you can set the park brake and set your cruise in park and it will idle up to 1200rpm for PTOs and things. This doesn’t build heat as well as elevated idle, but does keep your oil pressure up if you had to idle all day. Some aftermarket tuning offers high idle options etc depending on the application
My 2011 lml I bought at 80xxx miles. I cold started that truck all winter, and either took off right away, or it sat and idled. It had 380xxx miles on it when I sold it. My 2015, same thing. I sold that with 180k miles. Now my 2020 , same deal. It now has 101k, and plan on keeping this till who knows when.. truck prices and interest rates are INSANE !
Central Wisconsin, so it doesn't get super cold all winter, but for 3 months it's definitely below 30 degrees and plenty of days -10 degrees.
@@michaelzeinert2074do you plug in ur l5p ?
I use my block heater. Installed a nice weatherproof RV plug right on the front bumper. It's nice to have heat right away at the very least.
Don’t most come with a block heater? Mine did and my cummins also did
I expect you're aware, but it should be noted when talking about glow plugs that Cummins doesn't use them, they use an intake grid heater. FWIW, most Cummins will cold start without a grid heater down to -20F or even lower. Also since the Ram has electric cabin heaters, the only reason to idle once high idle kicks in, is for defrost. More regens does not equate to DEF usage. They are separate systems. DEF is injected into the SCR to reduce NOx and has no relation to soot accumulation in the DPF or EGR system. Otherwise, good video on the harmful effects of cylinder wash.
I had my LBZ on a timer (block warmer) that would warm it up for 4 hours before I left for work. I had a short commute so I mainly wanted it to be able to warm and thin the oil out a little quicker on cold starts. But I didn’t run the LBZ much when it was cold anyway, as soon as the oil pressure came up it was down in drive 😂 I just didn’t care after a while. Rest of the truck was rotting out around the driveline.
at -50c in canada my lml i drove 8 hours and halfway through stopped for a drink and bathroom break and it was running and had 0 coolant temp. we bought 12v heaters for the cab lol on the way back i was hauling a 6.5 my buddy bought and hauled back
id like to point out nobody mentioned a webasto or esbar heater.
In Europe they use diesel heaters plumed into the cooling system. Preheats the engine before start and also provides a warm toasty cabin within minutes.
04 6.0 and it has 300k miles on it .starts fine and blows warm air in 3 miles. Love my truck.
The duramax high idle uses the torque convertor to create engine load. Its like putting it in drive and putting your foot on the brake and hitting the throttle. Creates heat fast
How does it do this if the truck is in park?
About how many minutes should you idle it for? 2022 L5P with high idle.
It commands the TCM to stall/lock in the converter
Also individual glow plugs continue to run on/off for a bit even after the engine has started...the ECM and glow plug control module are smart enough to see how “hot” each cylinder is during a cold start, if it sees one cylinder is colder during cold start and isn’t firing completely due to the cold, the ECM will command the glow plug just for that cylinder to stay on longer to help that cylinder heat up and run better on its own. It's pretty smart and some tuners ruin this feature.
@@agger838 That’s pretty cool. I never knew it did that
I have noticed a lot of Medium and Heavy service trucks come with LHG devices for quick warm ups.
Good information. Simply put, " wet stacking ". No load with extended idle time. I can attest the increased soot levels in my L5P because of winter idle time. Definitely not good for our " government emission diesels".
Holy Moses, thank you for coming across this! In Utah we get some pretty cold days. I’d consider putting that on my 96 Chevy K1500 because it does take a while to get to temp.
Ventech = $2500
Block Heater = $60
Grill cover = $85
Block heater (BH) heats up the coolant to approx 100F @ 32F ambient and 72F at 0F which helps with startup. Ventech does nothing for startup
With a starting temp of 100F (BH) vs 32F the block heater gets the engine to temp in the same amount of time.
During extremely cold weather driving a grill cover costs $85 keeping engine temp optimal.
Ya but all these items besides the ventech require input/actions from the owner/operator, someone needs to plug it in, put the cover on etc.. as your aware people are getting lazier and dumber where the ventech has its own brain so they make sense in alot of applications
@@Liimpy True, LOL
But the video is about cold starts which the Ventech does nothing to help with cold starts all it does is make the heater warm up faster. LOL
@@rangervapes571 fair enough 😃, definitely not something I would spend money on
Isn’t the thermostat supposed to do this?
Our cold season only gets to 0 for the coldest. Every now and then it will drop in the negative temps. We have the opposite issue, the older non emission diesels won’t keep up to operating temps. The emission equipped diesels all warm up quickly and maintain operating temperature perfectly even when they idle for 20-30 minutes. Some people I know who have deleted their diesels have issues keeping temperature and have to run grill covers.
Well TM I'm definitely guilty of letting my 08 gmc idle for at least 30 minutes on cold mornings by the time i get in my truck it's nice and toasty warm in the cab👍🏿 , but for me personally i just hate getting in a cold truck
Okay good question since you have a l5p you probably noice your oil gauge pegging out on cold mornings right? Are you comfortable getting in it and immediately driving it sending that oil psi to 120? Or let it idle for a 3-4 minutes to bring it back down a little? One small thing i noticed on my l5p.
I noticed the same thing, I’m not willing to risk that high of oil pressure and cause a engine failure
@@jordanoleson8343 I'm always worried blowing the seal on the oil filter.
I have a mechanical gauge on my 12 valve Cummins that tops out at 75psi. On cold starts that needle SLAPS the little peg at the far end of the gauge. God knows what the actual pressure is. It doesn't come off that peg for a good while too. I baby it until the temps reach about 160.
The box truck I took it out of had 501,000 miles on it, still had the cross hatch on the cylinder walls. And I imagine this engine has seen thousands of cold starts. Still chugging along happy as can be.
^^^ THIS. Oil pressure is why I let my 2015 LML warm up for a few minutes. I live just off a State Highway with 65 MPH speed limit. No way I am jumping out on that and mashing the throttle. Cold start idle pressure is at 90 PSI. If I get in and drive, it quickly pegs the gauge at 120. Anybody ever try pouring oil out of the jug when it is at zero degrees? Imagine forcing that thick honey through main & rod bearings with 0.003 inch clearances. So you might be saving your cylinders, and wearing out your bearings by driving off in frigid weather.
@@Bloodbain88I've seena 100psi guage peg out on a 02 Cummins on idle in the cold. That same truck pushes 30 psi on idle hot. Personally I'll let it run for 15 mins
Hey, battle on another topic. We should talk about engine harnesses and what to look for on Fraying and rubbing on components.and how to prevent it
And how it can affect your engine. Just spent 2 full days pulled my harness and went through it found my shorts that burnt up my ficm.
I installed an espar hydronic on my Volkswagen diesel. I come out in the morning and my water temp is about 140 to 150, even when the air temp is -20, i never have to cold start it now.
When temps drop low -15F (-26C) my 32 Year old Diesel Hilux sounds a lot less cranky when cold starting compared to the missus 2008 Toyota Estate diesel.
What do you think of these magnetic heaters that just snap onto your oil pan and them simultaneously use these together with the frost plug heater?
Hello Josh. It's great that you've done a lot of research on this subject. I've got a question. Do your diesel trucks have a plug to plug them into electricity?
He can't afford to plug it in
If you have a real diesel engine, it won't need glow plugs to get it running in cold weather. If a diesel engine has enough compression it'll start in cold weather.
If the oil you use in your engine isn't leaving behind a protective film of oil on the cylinder walls you need to change to an oil that does.
Which oil? I'm running 15w40
Should be thick enough to leave good film but also thickens in the cold
I always plug My vehicle's in Anything below 0 Celsius it's plugged in But I don't leave it plugged in all night long I have it on a timer set it 2 hours before I go to work that's plenty of time.
Take my money!! I’m from Alberta, and the coldest we get is -55c, that’s -67F.
This is a great idea.
I idle my 5.9 cummins 15 minutes twice a day in cold weather. Also it’s a plow truck. It sees plenty of idle time. The truck has 200,000 miles on it now and absolutely no blow by. My point is- the truck is healthy and idling this much is not a problem. So, at what point is idling a problem? 1 hour? 2 hour?
Here’s the reality.
- GM, Ford and Ram want you to get in and drive your vehicle right away because the Emissions systems are garbage. The faster you warm up could mean fewer emissions problems down the road. IE the car manufacturer wants to save cost on warranty on the emissions.
- GM, Ford and Ram do not care about longevity of your motor. All they care about is getting you past warranty. This is why they don’t care if you drive when your vehicle isn’t warm yet.
- IMHO diesels should necessarily be driven until the coolant gauge has moved a bit. Maybe 90-100°. Manufacturers of large diesels even recommend not going into high range until above 150°
- here’s another factor. Oil pressure. I don’t even move my high idle until my oil pressure has settled at operating PSI.
- proving that there’s engine damage, that will cause a failure, by warming up your diesel is nearly impossible to prove. I work in the oilfield and all our pick ups have long idle hours yet most of them go 400-500,000kms. Gas and diesel.
Moral of the story is emissions is garbage and it’s the reason modern diesels suck.
Yup, mostly a city folk issue. I factored in the fact that I live 4km off a 110k/hr highway and drive 30 minutes to work. Short city trips are the worst for engine longevity.
on lml models the block heater doesnt even work until -18c
Proof?
Not true, may say that online but my lml’s block heater works even at -5 C
In the book on 2015 gmc,it says block kicks in at -15 degrees
my deleted cummins wont warm up at all just idling. high idle exhaust brake on does the trick.
Put your truck in a nice garage with a mini split warmer and call it good.
Why you dont use diesel heater like Webasto or Eberspächer? You can preheat the engine and cabin and use it while driving to heat up more quickly. Some diesel engines cant even keep the operating temperatures while driving without it. I also dont understand the fear of block heaters. Where I live I think I have never heard of those get in fire. And we use those plug (or oil pan) heaters a lot here.
so what should I do with an 03 LB7 duramax (pre-emissions)? Im in Canada, I run a block heater, should or should I not let the truck run for a few minutes before driving?
I love your content and how you dive deep into things. I’m looking into buying a newer diesel truck 2017+. I didn’t see one but I was curious if you had a video along these lines of things to prolong the life of these newer diesel trucks. If not a video like that would be greatly appreciated!
So have it in a heated shop at 68f in Canada is the best thing for my duramax lml
True that lmao radiant floor heating FTMFW! I spent far too many years rolling in mud puddles, or slush. Not to mention my vehicles rust to crap because for 7 months a year it's covered in salt and frozen road grime. Now just let it melt and squeegie it down the drain.
That’s y they make block heaters
Im sure that product has its helpful uses in certain applications but i dont see it being worth it for the money over a block heater and grill cover.
With outside temps around 0f to even - 30f, my block heater will get the engine to 80f within about +/- 4hrs of being plugged in in those temps. And if my grill cover is installed, the entire engine bay stays at around 40f-50f. Most trucks now like mine also have factory elevated idle that turns on automatically to help get it up to temp faster. I think that is sufficient enough heat for the oil and coolant to be healthy for the engine block and cylinder walls during cold start and warm up that it is not worth buying that heat generator. But again for certain applications.
My Colorado 2.8 diesel takes forever to warm up. I can drive for 20 minutes and it will be 1/2 way to proper operating temperature.
A heater on a school bus, never knew there was such a thing
This is interesting. I’ve always let my gas truck idle and warm up before I drive it. Seemed mandatory on a bigger diesel engine.
Idk, my 18 ram goes from 28 degrees to 175 in about 8-10 minutes at high idle, it takes longer if you drive it because the pcm doesn’t use turbo to load the engine and build heat. But with that said, i know plenty of diesel engines that are 20 30 years old and run fine, imagine how many cold starts they had over the years and how many long hours of idle. I like the idea you’re selling but im not buying the reason. Lots of companies sell ideas and push them off as needed additional parts. Fact is my Cummins was built to work in extreme conditions and Cummins engineers agreed it would work in those conditions. They even stood behind it with a 100 thousand mile warranty. When I worked at the dealer we had a Cummins come in with a rod threw the block at 6 thousand miles, Cummins sent their own people to pick up the engine to find the issue, they said that never happens and shouldn’t happen and wanted to know why and how.
I must have missed it but how does it work. What does it actually do to address the issue? Also will this work for the LZ0. The mini duramax.
@truckmaster I've known about this pretty much my entire life, living a d working in Wyoming, especially having been a rental tech/mechanic for many years. I plug my trucks in, installed high idle on any that don't have it, have a fuel heater, winter front, and oil pan heater all on when winter hits. But i also know that isn't quite enough to keep at peak operating temp during long idle hours out on the job.
So i was wondering if they had plans on having this available for the first gens of Duramaxes, as well as the well as the L5Ps?
Best is to buy a small gas car for short commutes and trips and your expensive diesel truck will last a long time if you just use it for truck use?
Doing Burnouts like in the end of the video will heat Your truck up just fine!
I’m new to the diesel world. is it ok for your engine to make that noise when you start it. mine is making that same noise when it starts in the cold. The noise I am talking about is the first cold start on the red duramax
So I’m wondering why we have an elevated idle? Sounds to me that it’s not necessarily good either?
What about the automatic high idle/exhaust break combo? That's not warming the engine?
Hmmm I have never heard this problem before. Never seen a 12 valve Cummins or an old cat have an issue with this. Was it not a problem in the past or are we just now noticing?
Don’t think I need to worry about cold starting since I am four months down waiting for my TCM. While it is down I put both EGR valves on. Very depressing when you open the boxes that you got from GM and they say made in China. No more Duramaxs or GM for me.
Going to a Banana Oil Pan with a heater for my LML was the best thing I could do at the time I did it. Cold oil doesn't circulate very good. One reason why I changed the pan. I always get in mine and drive it soon after starting. Slow at first and gradually pickup speed.
I watched this this morning and have been pondering it and had to come back to comment!
So why couldn’t you in colder weather just block off part of the radiator? Install a hotter thermostat? Why on these newer diesels have they
‘Overbuilt’ the cooling system? Or have they just engendered them to use more of the thermal heat for better efficiency thats why they cant get up to operating temps in cold weather?
Sounds to me like a piece of card board in front of the radiator also known as a ‘weather front’. On my first gen 12v here in gunnison Colorado where it will het -30 for a few weeks out of the winter. I took off my and unbolted mechanical fan, completely rook it off. No fan. And blocked off half of the radiator with a piece of card board. Driving around town (a very small town) it doesn’t get hot and over heat. And with half of the radiator being exposed for highway speeds it allows just enough cooling that it wont over heat.
It sounds to me like our govt oversight on diesel emissions had caused them to crank down on things to where they have had time make them use more of the thermal efficiency to get better emissions that they the engine itself isn’t storing some of that heat to warm itself up enough in colder climates. I don’t think you need to bolt another accessory (one that prolly costs $1000 or more) to the front of the engine. Sounds like
One more thing to go wrong on an already complicated enough as it is durajunk engine,
Not a very well engineered and thought out design. Everything is an after thought. Now that you all know my thoughts of a gm diesel, after working in a gm dealership for several years i don’t think to highly of them. Cummins all the way, nothing will ever compare to the simplicity, realizability, efficiency, torque, and power of a cummins. But thats but what this discussion is about.
I don’t think adding and bolting on a heat generator is the solution, i really think they need to just go back to the drawing board and reengineer the thermal dynamics of the cooling system. How about a passive radiator or multi temp or variable thermostat? Im sure they could find some way to computer control and over complicate something simple, thats basically the duramax engine in its entirety, something way over complicated, under built of lightweight alumn, over controlled by sensors and modules, unreliable and isn’t built as an ‘industrial grade’ diesel engine.
20+ Duramax has dampers on the front that open close as needed to keep the engine at temp in cold weather:
"There’s also an “ice mode” that activates when ambient temperatures fall below freezing. By working in conjunction with onboard sensors and a thermometer that monitors outside air temperature, ice mode prevents movement of the aero shutters until ambient temperatures rise above the freezing mark or until powertrain temperature has reached a healthy operating temperature"
Pretty neat really, I had my truck for almost a year before I found out about this feature , I was just washing it and went to rinse the dirt from the radiator and I couldn't even see it, all the dampers were closed
Ya its a cool concept but my philosophy is keep it simple! What happens when them shutters get stuck in the closed position?! To many things to go wrong and fail. To many sensors and moving little plastic parts to break. All that moving shutters and stiff behind the grill makes it that much more expensive after a crash. Lol
All these new trucks have just gotten nothing but cluttered and over loaded with gadgets and bells and whistles. I don’t need a shutter thats electronically controlled by a thermostat and the PCM to determine how much air flow to let in the front of the truck *eyeroll*
. I get the theory and philosophy behind it to help warm it up faster blah blah blah.
If i want to maintain a higher temp in -30 degree weather like here in gunnison colorado like it will typically get in jan, feb, ill out a pizza box inbetween the radiator and the intercooler, that way the intercooler still gets fresh cool air and the radiator is being blocked off, wither completely or partially depending on what I’m doing l. But hell i barely even drive my second gen HO 24v in the cold or the snow. Its a garage princess in its heated garage during the winter months.
Just to many things to go wrong on these new trucks. They’ve gotten way to complicated that in 5-10 years when they are broken down and all the little plastic pieces have broken and sensors have stoped working, their isn’t going to be anyone that knows how to work on them, or wants to anyways. To many sensors, modules, to many cheaply made plastic parts and moving parts. 20 years from bow it’ll be interesting to see whats broken down on the side of the road because of a $15 emissions related sensor. Or a lot full of non running or drivable diesel duramax trucks because no one has the means, knowledge or capability to work on them. And the dealers all went under, no more OE support. Itll be real interesting. I know one thing, my all
Mechanical p pumped HO 24v 6 speed Manual transmission truck will be driving down the road with no problems!
I could even run it on waste oil motor, waste veggie oil, atf. If theres a diesel fuel shortage, no problem theres a lot of vehicles with engines and automatic transmissions will be sitting around with good burnable
Oil in their engines!
Try that with your 2020 dura-maxie pad truck.
In all for keeping things simple, reliable, easy to maintain and fix. All this technology and sensors and modules and cheap plastic garbage isn’t making it easier on those of us that are technicians in the industry. Ive worked at the gm dealership, the dodge dealer, Been there done that. They aren’t going to get any better. We ad the consumer get what they cram down out throats. Take EV’s for example, bimbo biden and his democ-rat cronies cramming electric vehicles down our throats even tho its something we done need or want!
Def, fluid now this is a funny one…it comes in a plastic jug that in a cardboard box. Wtf?!
yes. it call wash down of the walls.
Truck master what kind of 35" do you recommend for snow
Today i was working on replacing my glow plugs. I got one glow plug that does not want to turn. Just ordered the air hammer glow plug tool.
WD40 the cylinder with the injectors turned off with a hot motor.
Whatever you do don't break it off. Or you'll be looking at 30hrs of labor to pull the head to remove it possibly. Try getting the engine hot before trying again
@@agger838 You don't have to remove the head. There are kits out there to remove broken glow plugs
@@agger838 I don't have a code on that glow plug so I could just leave it but since I changed all the others I wanted to keep it uniform. Based on the videos I have see with the air hammer tool I order, mechanics said it will save the headache and break free all the carbon causing it to be stuck. I have been moving slow with the ones that were hard. Kind of like when I changed the exhaust manifolds. The bolts took me a long time to get out but I was able to do it without out breaking any. I think if I had to pay for a broken one I would just get a new engine at that point.
@dustinryan9671 if u or a the mechanic breaks the glow plug they will try to weld a nut on if thy doesn't work they'll usually want to pull the head. I opted to roll the dice and drill mine out. I ruined the threads being off center. I then had to buy a time sert kit and that worked and saved my butt from probably buying a new head
Shoot HIGH IDLE warm up ? What’s that. Lol , once I did a high flow pipe kit Mine went away and never been able to get it back. Been all though my tune files I’m lost
Intersting information here, Thanks for putting out educational vids
So what would you charge to do an injector installation on my truck?
I had a 6.5 in a 99 GMC and you had to plug that thing in when it got to 50 degrees 😂. It took forever to warm up
I plug in my block heater overnight. In my garage. And it starts like normal. I live in Michigan as well, and when its cold, my engine temps dont get normal for 20 mins or so. I've seen people driving around with grill covers, how do you feel about those?
Depends on year and what not ... I refuse ... hear me out why... active grill shutters manages all the cooling and warming
What is glazing? Is it when the cross hatching is polished away? I was always told that glaze is fuel that has deposited itself onto the walls as a film of enamel like glaze. If an engine does get glazed, what's the fix? Would the fix be invasive (removing cylinder heads, or the removing the entire engine)? I have a Cummins, but she's a show queen, about 200 miles per year. I have a Detroit Diesel that's my primary tow rig. It was originally a snow plow, with extended hours of idle time in frigid temps. When I got it, it'd smoke horribly, I was wearing a face mask long before the world event. After towing close to 100k miles with loads that frequently required Wide Open Throttle, that old clunker is now almost smoke free. I thought engines smoked worse with use, not less.
It might have been your piston rings got stuck on the pistons. Chances are that truck may have been sitting awhile before you got it. Piston rings are supposed to spin on the piston and push against the cylinder walls. Given' her the ketchup probably heated up the rings enough to burn off the carbon and break them loose. It could also be your valve stem seals. The can get dry and start letting oil by. Depending on the oil you run, it probably has an additive to revive seals.
@@brockstarg2296 , I run SuperTech, cheapest 15W-40 I can find, but I didn't think about the piston rings, it makes sense
Dmax power baby
I got a delima for u all 😅 i have the 2020 1500 lm2 and has active grill shutters so warms up quicker on its owen all together... and plugging in cant till 0 these hate it
Common rail Cummins and 6.7 Cummins boys have no issues been doing this for years and my trucks always have ran strong leave the poverty 2g 12v’s and 24’s out of the equation I went 6.7 Cummins and will never go back
Last year I got my first lly Duramax i don't know if age makes a difference or not but i did usually always had it plug in for 3 to 4 hours before cold start i would walk out on the morning start it woke and as I got dressed brush my teeth got ready for the day my truck would warm up for about 10 minutes i don't know if I destroyed my engine or not for letting it idel like that but live in Michigan where it get in the negative dagees and my dad wrecked one of his old diesel morters for driving in cold. My truck parked for winter cause up here in Michigan we get thousands of pounds of road salt that will rust a veichel to no end but if I ever drive it in winter again i might invest in one of these. I really Don't know what to do cause it running cold is horrible for engine but letting it idle sounds just as bad I've never ran into problems with my truck yet but thinking i should get one of these if i drive it in the winter again any advice would be appreciated man thank in advance
Use a block heater and put a 1500 watt space heater on the floor or center console and there you go.
Also use a winter grille cover 😮
Great sales pitch. Where do i buy one in canada
thedieseldudes.com/search?q=lhg
I keep mine plugged in to kerp oil warm to flow
What gauge if extension cord to use to plug in the engine heater core
Papa every time you cold start a diesel truck in the winter an angel gets its wings 👼
This makes no sense to be completely honest. The newer diesels run hotter than the older diesels. With DPF DEF EGR all that creates more heat
No glow plugs on a cummins it heats up intake air which is a way better than 8 glow plugs like a power stroke or GM don’t know why they don’t use the best way .
What if the truck is tuned and deleted?
It will work if it’s deleted
How does a cold start work?
im in michigan just bought a lb7 wanting to do some mods wants some suggestions completly stock 130k miles except has old man wheels and tires on it what should i do to get mpg and how hard is it to do a 6 speed conversion on one of these trucks?
Pump rub fix if it’s 4x4
Why not have an electric pre start oil pump/heater.
Just plug it in, it will be fine
I'm still a little confused I live in socal it freezes over a little where I live is it ok to idle my truck for about 10 mins or does it harm it should I just start driving it a minute after I start it ????
You're fine. You would probably be fine with 5 minutes. The main thing is not letting it idle for long periods.
It also depends if your truck has emissions equipment or not. If it’s got a DPF, as I’m sure you know, idle time clogs it up gradually, so make sure to start rolling as soon as possible. Also like the guest said in the video, diesels can’t warm up very well unless they’re under load.
I live in Southern AZ. I do not compute
You need remote start for day like that
Is the LGH similar to a wabasto ?
Great vlog. Good information.
if you were smart you'd run 1 half ounce per gallon of 2 stroke outboard oil in your diesel. it would prevent much of this wear from cold starts.
What about the 1992 Cummins