I second this. I spaced my cabinets without load and when I started putting weight on them with clothes they stopped closing smoothly. Had to remove all drawer slides, placed barbell plates inside the boxes and spaced them again. Now they close smoothly with or without load.
"My playing cards are red. Will it still work?" OMG!!!! 😆🤣😆🤣 You are the winner of my daily quest for the first person who can make me laugh out loud!!! 🏆 Bless You 🙏🏼
@@Antebios sure.. But he's telling us his trick about getting the front of the drawer line with having a nice gap and if he's got to go back and readjust the box in the rails, then he's probably not going to have that nice gap anymore but that's all I was getting at. Well, that and that If he builds a crooked drawer and doesn't realize it, I mean that goes to credibility of the rest of what he's trying to tell us as a tip. It seems like a decent tip. I think someone Else pointed out that it looked like you some baseball cards and some playing cards or something. So again if you're going to put this great tip out there, it's going to stick better if the rest of your video doesn't have other mistakes
Those rails are pretty stiff but they work just fine. There are ones on rollers that are easier sliding, just more play and wiggle. Really depends on what you want.
Was probably the rails self registering (for lack of a better term) For some reason the first few times you open those they are awkward. Or if they are self closing he was forcing it shut through the resistance of the mechanism.
I LOVE THIS!! yeah, wood that'll make you croak if it burns! that'll be a nasty mess if it's humid! hard as hell to screw with out a bit of tape & a divot for traction if it's a teeny screw! or tack. (ps a hair comb works well to hold tiny tacks or finish nails for starting the hole.)
MDF swells on a single drop of water...plywood needs to be submerged for some time...unless it's a 'marine grade' of ply. No 'marine grade' MDF I've ever heard of.
If you were _really_ a woodworker, you would have used traditional Japanese helix-gudgeoned screwless gravy biscuit joints, they are traditional and Japanese, that's how you know they're good
I don't think anyone uses biscuits for something of their own, that's for stuff for sale! ooo secret biscuit drawers, ancient Japanese secret( sorry, it's from that old calgon commercial for laundry soap/ bubble bath. )
MDF sags and it doesn’t matter how thick it is. Sometimes it takes a year, sometimes more but one day those drawer bottoms will look like a diaper that hasn’t been changed in a month.
I strongly dislike MDF. Turns to mush with slight moisture. I avoid buying furniture made of it. The closest I'll accept is particle board. This is especially true if using it in a kitchen or garage area.
Couldn't agree more. All it takes is a minor flooding from a bust pipe, clogged drain, etc, and suddenly all your furniture is ruined and needs replacing. Just buy the proper stuff to begin with.
I recommend numbering each drawer. It makes it nicer to have the foresight to do that. In case someone ever has to take the drawers out in order to move-- for instance.
bless for the 1/4" bottom & the lovely deep grooves you've made! i swear they made fresh drawers for my new apartment id swear, 5" deep kitchen drawers, 1/8' bottom barely any groove in front, sides & front only about 1/16" from bottom! no rails , just the framing , all of it staples ! so like i guess nothing but kitchen towels in those drawers , ya know?
You can skip the glue for the front and just use double side tape. Then screw the front to the box from inside the drawer. Drill for your pull and voila.
Exactly. Screws into the edge of plywood is a terrible way to do it. I suppose trim screws and pre-drilling is the best way to implement this bad idea, though.
Oh, foo. Depends what he’s storing. If he’s putting window weights in there, you’re right he should use pocket screws. But for 99% of other stuff, the glue and screws he used will be fine for years.
The very FIRST sentence explains why people make this so difficult. "I've built drawers a number of different ways." vs "I've never built a drawer before in my life." Experience is the best teacher.
@@deusexaethera I find it interesting how often master builders do some project & discount their experience. "I just built this skoolie in 6 months in my garage from scraps. I'm just a regular guy w 25 yrs cabinetry experience. The buddy who helped isn't anything special. He's just a certified diesel mechanic w 30 yrs experience fixing truck engines. If 2 avg guys like us can do this, anyone can."
Totally STUPID to GLUE(?) the face to the box. Staining, finishing, altering fit...all are no longer possible easily. Not to mention any repair or replacement down the road. He used 2 screws to secure the face, and then used 4 screws to make the final "permanent" security...the glueing of the face is overkill and is totally unnecessary...unless you anticipate that you will abuse that drawer. In which case, do we really want your advice ?....I don't think so.
We build thousands of custom cabinets each year. Not all are in-set but you need better guide rails. With built in soft close. Our drawers sit on top of the guide rails. The drawer works the same empty or full. Wood spacers too, not cards.
You make it look easy. I'd be covered in wood glue looking for the right hardware at the last minute and cussing. Let's just say my skill level does not always match my artistic vision. I did make a really cute half door for the patio though so I can have the dogs out there with me. Lol
I have Yu-Gi-Oh! Cards. And I Summoned Carpenter-Man, I then add Power Saw Power giving him 500 Bonus Points.😎 I then add Power Drill, giving Carpenter-Man another 500 Points....😝 Ohhhh wait... these are Pokémon Cards... Never mind. 😩
@@mikep3813 I throw out (recycle) worn out playing cards. If they're still usable, why buy new? If they're not usable, why keep them? I buy or make precisely sized shims, to ensure correct, reliably repeatable measurements.
@@mikep3813 When privately owned playing cards reach the end of their intended usefulness they are, usually, bent and mutilated. Their thickness is no longer uniform - either within one card or across different cards. When I'm using shims for such 'fine' work, I like to know they are reliable. By all means, continue using your delapidated playing cards of unreliable measurement. If you can't find any cards, just use a selection of cheap unmatched cutlery. 😉😊
I know you use playing cards, but why not use a 4 wood spacers so that the space is even the same every time? Or is it so you can vary spacing as needed for the job?
You actually made a video for somethin like this??? People are so slow now adays just look at this comment section acting like this guys a genius 🤦🏻♂️ blows my mind.
Putting as many playing cards on top and bottom and left and right assumes your frame is absolutely square. If the frame is crooked, the boxes will look crooked too, at least compared to the possible other boxes.
The nice thing about the playing cards is you can change each stack until you get the drawer face lined up the way you want it, and _then_ drill the holes.
@@vitalsteve1 for entropy. if you think those reveals will be the same after transport, installation and daily usage... well you don't make cabinets frankly.
true he could have done the same thing without the glue and just screws. and if it ever needs ajusting in the future he could probebly do the same procedure again :)
If I hadn't missed what he said near the end, so had to go back, I would not have noticed that he wasn't only speaking of playing cards typically associated with Bicycle™ or their equivalent. LMAO He's got those, as well as baseball trading cards falling out of the drawer. I had to go back again just to make sure I hadn't missed Magic: The Gathering, Pokemon, or some other TCG's cards being mixed in! 😂 This Easter egg tickled me more than it probably should've, and I don't care. I'm not knowledgeable of baseball, so can someone tell me if this actually went deeper (like some specific rookie trading card iykyk)?
I see this all the time here on TH-cam… people building drawer boxes, adding an extra ”drawer front” to the front side of the box. How come? Lots of extra work and extra material to no practical avail. And also less room in the drawer. Why not cut the front wallof the drawer box to the proper size of a drawer front in the first place and put the handle directly on to that? OK, it takes some skill to figure out the exact size and positioning of the face/front side, but for cutting int right you only use a jig.
I wondered the exact same thing, the only reason I can think of is to make it easier to male the drawer like you mentioned. Plywood that thick isn't cheap, that's probably £5 of pointless wood right there 😂
That only works in limited scenarios and it’s a lot of extra work. You have to adjust how you’re attaching the sides of the box to the front, how deep you set the slides, where you install the slides. You don’t get any adjustability so if you mess up you’re rebuilding the whole drawer box. Conversely, a false front lets you build the drawer box the same no matter if you’re doing inset faces or overlay, gives you adjustability before they’re fixed in place, and lets you easily use a nicer material for them. Plus they’re stronger because the front can be installed with fasteners running perpendicular to the motion of the rails.
I've tried it both ways. It's much easier (for me and many others) to align the false fronts evenly using this or a similar technique. It took me far less time using this method.
@@coreywardall of what you said is bs. you just pretending to know what yer talking about. ..limited scenarios? ..no adjustability? ...false front isnt stronger.. you can make the box the same either way... gtfoh w that mr know it all bs
Next step to make it easier: not using dados for the bottom. Just use a thicker bottom and glue and screw it in place. Cut the bottom at the same time you're cutting the front and the back to make sure it's the same width. Screw the front to the sides first, then the bottom, then the back. Put some glue between all the parts when you screw them in place.
Dado cuts are an extra step, but they let you use 1/4" material for the bottoms, which is cheaper and lighter than 3/4" MDF. And if you're using plywood for your bottom panel (because MDF is incredibly susceptible to moisture, and drawers tend to be in kitchens and bathrooms a lot) you're gonna be splitting that 3/4 ply like crazy screwing it in. If you were to nail it, that may work better, but it's still a weak connection. A joint will almost always be stronger than screws, glue, and nails.
If you're really worried about sag and you're making drawers for your own use, just put the stuff in the drawer that it's actually going to hold, and then shim the drawer face to be centered with the actual intended load resting on the sliders.
Why wasn’t it smooth when you pushed it back in? Why didn’t you open: close it at least one more to show the actual open/ close? And also was many others pointed out, you didn’t take into account the weight of the drawers when fully loaded with tools… unless you are planning to only store bags of air inside these drawers, you need to solve for the approx/ max weight of the drawers in advance. This is why when you buy any storage (drawers/ shelves) they always tell you max load of every drawer and shelf. But otherwise, good job. That was fairly simple, and I very much liked this built. ❤
Could also be improperly installed glides, or the front of the cabinet opening is wider than the back, causing that friction shiver as the drawer gets squished
Almost perfect short video. Elegant drawer design. All the information necessary for someone capable of building drawers to follow your plan and several little tricks. Needs a non proprietary bass-drop music overlay. 4 out of 5 stars.
I can't believe you use MDF. That stuff swells and turns into crap the minute it meets water. A spilled cup of coffee in a desk drawer, a little water from the sink in a vanity, a broken jar in a kitchen jar: all disasters for MDF. Spend the extra few bucks and use plywood. --Voice of experience.
Me watching this full video like "oh, okay, hmm, that's right..." as if I know at all what I'm talking about or EVER planning to build my own drawers 🤓🤡
Why are you glueing the door fronts and putting 4 screws in it. Its complete overkill and makes you not be able to change it if you made a mistake. You don’t need that glue.
I always avoid putting screws or nails in the edge of plywood. It’s fundamentally wrong. It works a lot of the time, especially with glue because the glue is what’s doing all the work while the screws hold it temporarily. Even a piece of actual wood is significantly weakened with a screw going with the grain. Remember, screws and nails are intended to gross grains, and there isn’t even grain in plywood., you just splitting sheets of ply.
I just prefer not to have any screws or plywood in my furniture 😅 Brautiful visible nails or screws are ok, so that rules out PH, PZ, Torx, &c. But structural screws are big nono because their threads work the wood to mush over years of usage.
Wow - and here I was using specific sized wood or pvc plexi Im such a dummie - hopefully I'll be able to go back and redo all those drawers from the last 35 years
Your drawer bottom is way too tight. In time your drawer will split open. Wood moves, even stable boards like MDF still move. You can see at the end that the drawer doesn’t slide very easily mainly due to the cheap quality runners but also paired with the drawer being too just.
I have a dresser that I bought 4 decades ago. The drawers are held together with staples. I over stuffed them with clothes and the bottoms started popping out. I glued and clamped them and they're fine. I see people building with dovetails and I laugh. Your method should last at least a lifetime.
Screwing into that end grain made me cringe. Otherwise it looks great. I would try to go with pocket holes though. You're cutting looks very accurate, much more so than mine.
I have some terrible ikea drawers that basically never worked because the flimsy bottoms kept falling out so I’m gonna use these tips to fix them thank you
Great technique but I would add at least one card more at the bottom vs the top because when the drawer is loaded it will settle a bit.
So THATS what the joker is for.
I would probably use a little more stfu
@@jbirdmaxthis is the ONLY conclusion
I second this. I spaced my cabinets without load and when I started putting weight on them with clothes they stopped closing smoothly. Had to remove all drawer slides, placed barbell plates inside the boxes and spaced them again. Now they close smoothly with or without load.
gotem
My playing cards are red. Will it still work?
Unfortunately not. Sorry.
Red are metric.
@@DavidRyanTaylor 😂😂😂
😂
"My playing cards are red. Will it still work?" OMG!!!! 😆🤣😆🤣 You are the winner of my daily quest for the first person who can make me laugh out loud!!! 🏆 Bless You 🙏🏼
Playing cards as adjustable thickness shims is some big brain shit
feeler guages
Playing cards as adjustable thickness shims is TIGHT
You'll have to eyeball and measure with shims. This saves a bunch of time
identical business cards would likewise work I'd think.
I've seen many YT woodworkers using those. It's not that unique, more like hipster woodworkers thing, or something like that.
Sounds like a professional tip from a retired gambler...
Poker chips?
OH MY GOSH, PLAYING CARDS???
Thank you so much about this tip! I was so unsure about a project of mine, now I can have confidence to finish it!
Still seemed like it was hard to open and close at the end there
That has more to do with the installed rails. If they aren't aligned correctly or precisely, then you get that "stuck" motion.
@@Antebios sure.. But he's telling us his trick about getting the front of the drawer line with having a nice gap and if he's got to go back and readjust the box in the rails, then he's probably not going to have that nice gap anymore but that's all I was getting at. Well, that and that If he builds a crooked drawer and doesn't realize it, I mean that goes to credibility of the rest of what he's trying to tell us as a tip. It seems like a decent tip. I think someone Else pointed out that it looked like you some baseball cards and some playing cards or something. So again if you're going to put this great tip out there, it's going to stick better if the rest of your video doesn't have other mistakes
Yeah. Didn’t look like a drawer I’d want. Unless I like sticky drawers.
Those rails are pretty stiff but they work just fine. There are ones on rollers that are easier sliding, just more play and wiggle. Really depends on what you want.
Was probably the rails self registering (for lack of a better term) For some reason the first few times you open those they are awkward. Or if they are self closing he was forcing it shut through the resistance of the mechanism.
I only buy mdf to throw it in the garbage where it belongs. Regular old plywood.
I LOVE THIS!! yeah, wood that'll make you croak if it burns! that'll be a nasty mess if it's humid! hard as hell to screw with out a bit of tape & a divot for traction if it's a teeny screw! or tack. (ps a hair comb works well to hold tiny tacks or finish nails for starting the hole.)
Playing cards are criminally underrated tools.
My only concern is the MDF, plywood isn't too much more expensive and won't turn to shit if anything gets spilled in the drawer
Yes it will, plywood will eventually delaminate If it keeps getting wet from spills.
MDF swells on a single drop of water...plywood needs to be submerged for some time...unless it's a 'marine grade' of ply.
No 'marine grade' MDF I've ever heard of.
@@pirobot668betamdf sucks for kitchen, sometimes even hi humidity & steamy surroundings affect the stuff!
That's why I don't keep loose liquid in my drawers any longer.
True. I'm a painter and constantly deal with swollen and ruined mdf, often new too.
I’m an auto body technician - I use the same trick for panels. Good work!
You use screws? just kidding. I build my drawers the EXACT same way. No one opens the drawer and says, "OMG, no dovetails, miters, or rabit joints???"
That drawer front trick is a good one. For that MDF, it will go in with less force with just a tad bit of paste wax in the dado.
If you were _really_ a woodworker, you would have used traditional Japanese helix-gudgeoned screwless gravy biscuit joints, they are traditional and Japanese, that's how you know they're good
I don't think anyone uses biscuits for something of their own, that's for stuff for sale! ooo secret biscuit drawers, ancient Japanese secret( sorry, it's from that old calgon commercial for laundry soap/ bubble bath. )
@@l.scales7516: He's being facetious. 😉
MDF drawer bases are the cheapest and quickest to fail with any type of moisture option available. Use plywood.
MDF sags and it doesn’t matter how thick it is. Sometimes it takes a year, sometimes more but one day those drawer bottoms will look like a diaper that hasn’t been changed in a month.
Yeah, the MDF seems like the only really objectively bad decision in this video
He uses these drawers to store playing cards. It’ll be fine.
Make drawer fronts solid wood.
@@joniboulware1436 he did say for shop drawers, plywood is fine
I strongly dislike MDF. Turns to mush with slight moisture. I avoid buying furniture made of it. The closest I'll accept is particle board. This is especially true if using it in a kitchen or garage area.
Couldn't agree more. All it takes is a minor flooding from a bust pipe, clogged drain, etc, and suddenly all your furniture is ruined and needs replacing. Just buy the proper stuff to begin with.
Particle board would make an even worse drawer bottom. But yeah, they're both bad for this application.
There’s no mdf in this video
@@eljakimdeclerck1941"the drawer bottom is just some 1/4" MDF"
Yeah I wouldn't use quarter inch MDF... It's much better to use hardboard (HDF) for this application, which is pretty good stuff.
Who needs shims or feeler gauges when you can say "there's 7 playing cards worth of space"
Playing cards are made as uniform as possible because gamblers take the possibility of "marked cards" VERY seriously.
I recommend numbering each drawer. It makes it nicer to have the foresight to do that. In case someone ever has to take the drawers out in order to move-- for instance.
Can’t the person moving do that with a pencil?
@@NateB yes. The person moving might not realize each drawer is custom fitted though. Just an extra touch. Do with it as you will.
I wish I would have seen this a week ago 😅
Good idea. How often do you get black jack????
Yeah buddy, that slid perfectly without friction and soft close was the chefs kiss😂😂
For a second I thought I was listening to the Lockpick Lawyer. 😂
I was trying to place the voice! Thanks!
Maybe it is? 🤔
bless for the 1/4" bottom & the lovely deep grooves you've made! i swear they made fresh drawers for my new apartment id swear, 5" deep kitchen drawers, 1/8' bottom barely any groove in front, sides & front only about 1/16" from bottom! no rails , just the framing , all of it staples ! so like i guess nothing but kitchen towels in those drawers , ya know?
You can skip the glue for the front and just use double side tape. Then screw the front to the box from inside the drawer. Drill for your pull and voila.
And then summer came and we had to wait till winter came to get our stuff out😅
"Why do people make this so difficult" Strength, quality and craftsmanship.
... aaand playing cards😌👏
Exactly. Screws into the edge of plywood is a terrible way to do it. I suppose trim screws and pre-drilling is the best way to implement this bad idea, though.
Oh, foo. Depends what he’s storing. If he’s putting window weights in there, you’re right he should use pocket screws. But for 99% of other stuff, the glue and screws he used will be fine for years.
@@johnsrabe Ikea furniture is fine for years. Furniture built with craftsmanship is fine for generations.
@@johnsrabelonger screws into end grain are stronger than pocket screws.
Not too sure where trim screws would be tho
Woooooo Squidwards Carpentry Tips!
Instant Sub!
They make it difficult because they don't want sticky drawers
The very FIRST sentence explains why people make this so difficult. "I've built drawers a number of different ways." vs "I've never built a drawer before in my life." Experience is the best teacher.
The master has failed more times than the novice has even tried.
@@deusexaethera
I find it interesting how often master builders do some project & discount their experience.
"I just built this skoolie in 6 months in my garage from scraps. I'm just a regular guy w 25 yrs cabinetry experience. The buddy who helped isn't anything special. He's just a certified diesel mechanic w 30 yrs experience fixing truck engines. If 2 avg guys like us can do this, anyone can."
Totally STUPID to GLUE(?) the face to the box. Staining, finishing, altering fit...all are no longer possible easily. Not to mention any repair or replacement down the road. He used 2 screws to secure the face, and then used 4 screws to make the final "permanent" security...the glueing of the face is overkill and is totally unnecessary...unless you anticipate that you will abuse that drawer. In which case, do we really want your advice ?....I don't think so.
We build thousands of custom cabinets each year. Not all are in-set but you need better guide rails. With built in soft close. Our drawers sit on top of the guide rails. The drawer works the same empty or full. Wood spacers too, not cards.
You make it look easy. I'd be covered in wood glue looking for the right hardware at the last minute and cussing. Let's just say my skill level does not always match my artistic vision. I did make a really cute half door for the patio though so I can have the dogs out there with me. Lol
How does the door you make relate to dogs? They can open the door themselves ?
That smooth motion at the end lol
WD-40 😎
Right?
I have Yu-Gi-Oh! Cards. And I Summoned Carpenter-Man, I then add Power Saw Power giving him 500 Bonus Points.😎 I then add Power Drill, giving Carpenter-Man another 500 Points....😝 Ohhhh wait... these are Pokémon Cards... Never mind. 😩
MDF is absolutely trash. You should be ashamed to include that garbage in anything you build. Disgusting.
your comment section really pisses me off, full of over opinionated people that have probably never made furniture
Didn't realise people were "making it so difficult". Rather than ruin my nice playing cards, I just use the shims from my floor laying kit. ;)
Just use your not good playing cards. Who doesn't have like 10 decks of old cards laying around the house.
@@mikep3813
I throw out (recycle) worn out playing cards.
If they're still usable, why buy new?
If they're not usable, why keep them?
I buy or make precisely sized shims, to ensure correct, reliably repeatable measurements.
@trueaussie9230 if they're not usable for playing, they work perfect for shims.....that's why you keep them.
@@mikep3813
When privately owned playing cards reach the end of their intended usefulness they are, usually, bent and mutilated.
Their thickness is no longer uniform - either within one card or across different cards.
When I'm using shims for such 'fine' work, I like to know they are reliable.
By all means, continue using your delapidated playing cards of unreliable measurement.
If you can't find any cards, just use a selection of cheap unmatched cutlery. 😉😊
MDF should be outlawed
I know you use playing cards, but why not use a 4 wood spacers so that the space is even the same every time? Or is it so you can vary spacing as needed for the job?
The latter. There's no guarantee the openings or the drawer faces will be perfectly uniform as this stuff is all handmade.
You should just use playing cards to build your drawer boxes, it’ll have about the same moisture tolerance as the MDF
More moisture tolerance than MDF since most playing cards are plastic coated.
Love this. I’ve seen a bar of ivory soap used to rub the spots connected/ touching to give it a smooth glide. Has this been a tool you have utilized?
You actually made a video for somethin like this??? People are so slow now adays just look at this comment section acting like this guys a genius 🤦🏻♂️ blows my mind.
Putting as many playing cards on top and bottom and left and right assumes your frame is absolutely square. If the frame is crooked, the boxes will look crooked too, at least compared to the possible other boxes.
The nice thing about the playing cards is you can change each stack until you get the drawer face lined up the way you want it, and _then_ drill the holes.
Why Do YOU Make It So Difficult?😂
It's easy but many steps ans different products and tools used
Rub bar soap on edges of bottom panel. The 1/4" MDX Will slide in almost effortlessly into dado cuts.
Mistake gluing on the front. Makes it non-adjustable.
adjustable for what? dude legit equalized spacing all around😂
@@vitalsteve1
for entropy. if you think those reveals will be the same after transport, installation and daily usage... well you don't make cabinets frankly.
@@vitalsteve1cabinet installer here 👋 i cannot tell you how many times I've had to remove/repaint/replace damaged drawer fronts
true he could have done the same thing without the glue and just screws. and if it ever needs ajusting in the future he could probebly do the same procedure again :)
Fair point, but I'm guessing he's building this for his own use in-situ. No transportation risks.
Lol the playing card trick is so daft. Daft like a fox
Draw bottom is to tight in drawer frame - the draw will warp and will bind when opening/closing - just like it is in the last clip😅
I am thinking about making some monster drawers, thank you
And yet for some reason, over the years the perfect drawer box somehow magically becomes crooked, starts to stick and lean.
I always do pretty much the same thing butuse double sided carpet tape to set it in position. No waiting for glue to dry
Something wrong with that hardware, seems to take a big effort to close. Or something is out of alignment.
MDF will degrade with ambient humidity or spills, though.
TIL drawer handles are called "pulls". Never heard that term before ngl.
Found your channel from this video - Subscribed, thanks for sharing 🌈
I wouldn't set screws into plywood endgrain. Use pocket screws.
You said no measuring, but you are using the cards to measure so therefore you are actually measuring.
Those look like GRK trim screws, my personal favorite.
Who makes it more difficult? Other trained professionals? What is the point of the title of this video?
I think most people call it a handle. Not a drawer pull
I call them "pulls", I've heard it from many people, and seen it in stores.
If I hadn't missed what he said near the end, so had to go back, I would not have noticed that he wasn't only speaking of playing cards typically associated with Bicycle™ or their equivalent. LMAO
He's got those, as well as baseball trading cards falling out of the drawer. I had to go back again just to make sure I hadn't missed Magic: The Gathering, Pokemon, or some other TCG's cards being mixed in! 😂
This Easter egg tickled me more than it probably should've, and I don't care.
I'm not knowledgeable of baseball, so can someone tell me if this actually went deeper (like some specific rookie trading card iykyk)?
No measuring, you say, and then cite the object of a consistent thickness that you use to measure
Nice to see your pride in your work. It's those little things that differentiate between quality and quantity!
Why install a drawer pull when you can cut it outta the drawer front. Minimalism ✨
Because you can't grab a recessed drawer pull with your big toe when your hands are full.
@@deusexaethera instead of smashing your pinky on furniture you can now use it to pull from a drawer. You sorta redempt wood
This seems like something I would have come up with. Using something I have handy. Yet, I probably would have used something else. Brilliant!!
im all in
I see this all the time here on TH-cam… people building drawer boxes, adding an extra ”drawer front” to the front side of the box. How come? Lots of extra work and extra material to no practical avail. And also less room in the drawer. Why not cut the front wallof the drawer box to the proper size of a drawer front in the first place and put the handle directly on to that? OK, it takes some skill to figure out the exact size and positioning of the face/front side, but for cutting int right you only use a jig.
I wondered the exact same thing, the only reason I can think of is to make it easier to male the drawer like you mentioned. Plywood that thick isn't cheap, that's probably £5 of pointless wood right there 😂
That only works in limited scenarios and it’s a lot of extra work. You have to adjust how you’re attaching the sides of the box to the front, how deep you set the slides, where you install the slides. You don’t get any adjustability so if you mess up you’re rebuilding the whole drawer box. Conversely, a false front lets you build the drawer box the same no matter if you’re doing inset faces or overlay, gives you adjustability before they’re fixed in place, and lets you easily use a nicer material for them. Plus they’re stronger because the front can be installed with fasteners running perpendicular to the motion of the rails.
I've tried it both ways. It's much easier (for me and many others) to align the false fronts evenly using this or a similar technique. It took me far less time using this method.
100%
@@coreywardall of what you said is bs. you just pretending to know what yer talking about. ..limited scenarios? ..no adjustability? ...false front isnt stronger.. you can make the box the same either way... gtfoh w that mr know it all bs
Do you have tutorials for making a cabinet?
95% of Ikea is MDF or even worse cardboard 😂
Great simple method, thanks!
I’d probably use hardboard/masonite for the bottoms though.
Next step to make it easier: not using dados for the bottom. Just use a thicker bottom and glue and screw it in place. Cut the bottom at the same time you're cutting the front and the back to make sure it's the same width. Screw the front to the sides first, then the bottom, then the back. Put some glue between all the parts when you screw them in place.
Dado cuts are an extra step, but they let you use 1/4" material for the bottoms, which is cheaper and lighter than 3/4" MDF. And if you're using plywood for your bottom panel (because MDF is incredibly susceptible to moisture, and drawers tend to be in kitchens and bathrooms a lot) you're gonna be splitting that 3/4 ply like crazy screwing it in. If you were to nail it, that may work better, but it's still a weak connection. A joint will almost always be stronger than screws, glue, and nails.
It looks like there's nothing supporting the bottom up where the front is attached. Wouldn't it just sag over time?
it's got a dado up front
It didn’t look super smooth sliding in there at the end
Every idea was brilliant, the only blemish being the MDF. 😅
This is literally how you build ikea drawers
nope
I wouldn't say it requires no measurement because you still have to cut the piece of wood to fit the Gap?
I think he meant no measuring during fitting.
I just use 1/16” shims and always 1 more on the bottom than the top to account for sag
If you're really worried about sag and you're making drawers for your own use, just put the stuff in the drawer that it's actually going to hold, and then shim the drawer face to be centered with the actual intended load resting on the sliders.
And then the moisture in the air gets to it...
Why wasn’t it smooth when you pushed it back in? Why didn’t you open: close it at least one more to show the actual open/ close? And also was many others pointed out, you didn’t take into account the weight of the drawers when fully loaded with tools… unless you are planning to only store bags of air inside these drawers, you need to solve for the approx/ max weight of the drawers in advance. This is why when you buy any storage (drawers/ shelves) they always tell you max load of every drawer and shelf. But otherwise, good job. That was fairly simple, and I very much liked this built. ❤
Why are you wasting so much space. You're losing about 50 percent of the volume with those drawers.
Glued-on front = no adjustability.
Drawer body 1/32 too wide = shove hard to close.
Could also be improperly installed glides, or the front of the cabinet opening is wider than the back, causing that friction shiver as the drawer gets squished
@@perryborn2777 True. Everything needs to be within tolerances for sure.
Almost perfect short video. Elegant drawer design. All the information necessary for someone capable of building drawers to follow your plan and several little tricks. Needs a non proprietary bass-drop music overlay. 4 out of 5 stars.
I couldn’t build one before this video and I’m certain I could after watching it. This was excellent
@@taglagable I bet you could have. I ended up burning the first few I made.
@@bobcougar77sometimes they can be used as drawer dividers after you break them up! lol
Using the playing cards is a great idea.
I can't believe you use MDF. That stuff swells and turns into crap the minute it meets water. A spilled cup of coffee in a desk drawer, a little water from the sink in a vanity, a broken jar in a kitchen jar: all disasters for MDF. Spend the extra few bucks and use plywood. --Voice of experience.
Measuring in millimeters? Maybe in 1/16 of an inch? Nope! LeTs UsE pLaYiNg CaRdS! 😂
Thats better quality than i see in most kitchens in FL 😂
cali too, 1/8th in bottoms , dado grooves barely there, no rails!
Me watching this full video like "oh, okay, hmm, that's right..." as if I know at all what I'm talking about or EVER planning to build my own drawers 🤓🤡
Why are you glueing the door fronts and putting 4 screws in it. Its complete overkill and makes you not be able to change it if you made a mistake. You don’t need that glue.
I always avoid putting screws or nails in the edge of plywood. It’s fundamentally wrong. It works a lot of the time, especially with glue because the glue is what’s doing all the work while the screws hold it temporarily. Even a piece of actual wood is significantly weakened with a screw going with the grain. Remember, screws and nails are intended to gross grains, and there isn’t even grain in plywood., you just splitting sheets of ply.
I just prefer not to have any screws or plywood in my furniture 😅 Brautiful visible nails or screws are ok, so that rules out PH, PZ, Torx, &c.
But structural screws are big nono because their threads work the wood to mush over years of usage.
Have you experimented with different thicknesses for the bottom? Why 1/4” specifically?
I was with you until I heard MDF. That garbage should be outlawed! If any moisture gets to it, it will expand and turn into dog crap.
Wow - and here I was using specific sized wood or pvc plexi
Im such a dummie - hopefully I'll be able to go back and redo all those drawers from the last 35 years
Careful.
Common Sense has become a felony.
This could be used against you.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Your drawer bottom is way too tight. In time your drawer will split open. Wood moves, even stable boards like MDF still move.
You can see at the end that the drawer doesn’t slide very easily mainly due to the cheap quality runners but also paired with the drawer being too just.
I have a dresser that I bought 4 decades ago. The drawers are held together with staples. I over stuffed them with clothes and the bottoms started popping out. I glued and clamped them and they're fine. I see people building with dovetails and I laugh. Your method should last at least a lifetime.
Screwing into that end grain made me cringe. Otherwise it looks great. I would try to go with pocket holes though. You're cutting looks very accurate, much more so than mine.
Stop building cabinets with plywood! It’s not even cheaper most of the time
Im learning things...now... I can do things properly and not use duct tape like a russian immigrant, even though I immigrated with my parents
TIP, before attaching the drawer front, load the drawer with some weight., exercise the drawer and put a few smacks downward.
Волшебно! Но 99% фасадов не утапливают в каркас, а навешивают с наружи )
I have some terrible ikea drawers that basically never worked because the flimsy bottoms kept falling out so I’m gonna use these tips to fix them thank you