This is Old School Carpentry, if the base is solid and level the rest falls in place . . .glad to see someone put the time in to show others Old School techniques +++ points for that
@dannyoktim9628 Couldn't agree more. Please to hear your another professional in this industry intentionally choosing to do things correctly Unfortunately this type of knowledge and skills are lacking and hard to find these days.
@@PennsPens In my 20 years I've only seen plastic leveling legs/feet a handful of times. It's almost always plywood or pressure treated lumber toe kicks.
I've been doing this for the last 40 years, its absolutely the best way to install cabinets. Old home remodels where you have a 3" difference in floor from 1 side to the other. Glad to see someone else doing it this way. Have had quite a few contractors just look at me and shake their heads like I;m crazy!! Great video as always!!
' 3" difference in the floor ' Really?!? I would be concerned about some underlying structural issues before a kitchen remodel, unless their new Kitch Cabs are on a 3/12 roof 🤷🏾 whatever you say Boss!
Agreed on the method. Really dont like individually leveling. Never had anything 3" out but got close. Built a kitchen once that had around 2-1/2" of slope across 16' or so of cabinets. House was framed that way if you can believe that. In a luxury neighborhood too. I thought for sure something was going on with the foundation, maybe termites in the structure but nope.
@@schteve8476 Yes, the drawer faces could be scribed perfectly to the floor while in the closed postition then bind when opened, there goes your perfect scribe. Or to have an even gap when close it needs to be 1/2". On the other hand, the floor could be decent and a uniform eighth inch gap can work. Personally, for cleanliness, I prefer to have the kicks, carcasses and counter tops of kitchen cabinets caulked/hermetically sealed. Having those gaps means crumbs are an open invitation to bugs. How often does one pull the drawers and clean underneath them?
I have built a lot of cabinets with the toe kick built in, but after watching Brent's video, I chose to use this method when remodeling my kitchen. I have a 140 year old home and the floors and walls are anything but level and plumb. The separate toe kick was just the ticket! I would have struggled trying to level the individual cabinets. Thanks for the idea! The cabinets went in without a hitch. Sometimes we can't see the forest because of the trees.
Regarding the laser, I find it's best to set the laser line 2 or 3 inches above the toe kick. Find the high spot then set a block of wood on the high spot on the toe kick, mark the laser on the block then shim up each section until the block shows level to the laser. Setting up the laser above the toe kick, offset, allows you to accurately level the front and the back of the toe kick using the laser. No spirit level is needed.
This is fundamental and I'm really surprised to see someone making a "how to level" video introducing another error factor and defeating the purpose of having a self-leveling laser line as a reference. SMH
@@thekinarbo ...mmm and you are 100% CORRECT ! during my 30 plus year on construction sites - I saw many construction workers relying on their laser to be perfect all of he time and they never ever checked them ! My boss bought a brand new self leveling laser and I checked it and it was only off 1/4 inch in 10 feet ! He was SHOCKED and returned it and made sure the new one read perfect before he left the store !
As a flooring installer that occasionally needs to pry off the toe kick to get my flooring together, I appreciate the the way your cabinets are constructed. Well done!
I'm familiar with this method. When I worked for my brothers-in-law in construction many years ago, we did several jobs installing cabinets commercially. They were all built this way. We simply leveled the bases, then set the cabinets on top. Easy peasy!
Going to be building cabinets for the first and have really gotten a lot of good information . Feel much better about the upcoming project. Thank you for your time
I attach a level ledger board across the wall. Place boxes on top and use the plastic adjustable legs for the front. So simple and always perfectly level.
Yeah I do that too. It's basically the system used by IKEA kitchen cabinets. I don't get why he spent so much time and materials building a level base when you can just level the top.
@@decodemodern Thats exactly why Ikea installers (and products) have an extremely poor reputation by real professionals in the kitchen industry. Plastic feet don't support the weight of cabinetry, Particularly with stone type benchtops causing the tops to fail and crack due to Plastic feet unable to support the weight. Poor insulation provides poor results. Even this TH-camr understands cabinetry better than you do! Shame on you - Cowboy
@sethguenuberg Thats exactly why installers like yourself have an extremely poor reputation by real professionals in the kitchen industry. Plastic feet don't support the weight of cabinetry, Particularly with stone type benchtops causing the tops to fail and crack due to plastic feet being unable to support the weight of cabinetry (even with standard benchtops). Poor insulation provides poor results. Even this TH-camr understands cabinetry better than you do! Shame on you - ya Cowboy. Think you should seriously consider a better suited job that requires zero skills more suited to your skill level (or lack of). Customers pay good money for kitchens So Leave these jobs to the real people who know what their doing.
Great video as always. As somebody who has never built a toe kick before, nor a cabinet for that matter, I have a couple of suggestions that came to mind. Firstly when measuring the cabinets for the support positions you could instead just place either the front or back across the cabinets and mark them directly. Secondly as you have a nice flat and level work surface to build on, I'd suggest building the toe kick upside down. This ensures that the top surface will be flat and level for the cabinets as the bottom surface of the toe kick doesn't matter - It will be shimmed anyway.
Awesome content! I really appreciate how thorough and detailed you are with every step. Eliminates all possible headaches once placing the cabinets, spot on sir!
There are a ton of great woodworkers on TH-cam but I will say I always learn a ton from you. I have watched all your cabinet making videos going back several years. I had never made a cabinet when I watched your first one. Since then I have made many including a kitchen remodel. Thanks and keep them coming.
My former neighbor, calls himself a handyman, but has extensive experience building and remodeling homes. He was building new cabinets in his garage for his new home. He taught me the same method. He said build you toe kick frame, then spend the time to level it. Once that’s done, attach your cabinets on top. Then your not fighting each cabinet to be level and matching the other ones.
The cabinets I install are not handmade and come with toe kicks cut into the carcass panel. I suppose before assembly I could hit them with the tracksaw and be ready to move into install onto new base when time. What do you think would be the best solution so I could take advantage of this leveling hack?
@@RunDMS I'm not sure I'd remove the toe kicks from your cabinets just to use this method. You're creating more work for yourself that way, and it'll take longer than just leveling each cabinet. Sure it might seem tedious to do each cabinet, but having pre-made cabinets with toe-kicks isn't the end of the world.
@@JP-hj2gs Thanks. I usually secure two together through the face frames and set them as pairs to help lower my leveling time. It’s good.. not perfect by any stretch. Thanks for reply.
one of the best videos ive seen and being a floorguy i appreciate the fact you cut the laminate floor back as it should be. the base construction takes all the work outta cabinet installation, plus when backed up with a laser and comp shims quality is sky high. you got a new subscriber! 👍
I would use EZ level devises on the toe kick assembly for a solid and easy leveling process. Also, i would cut the flooring back an additional 1/4" for its expansion. I do enjoy the no no-nonsense feel of your videos .
I agree. Need that space for floating floor expansion. I need to do that for my installation. Any advice for expansion joint caulking so the 1/4 space does not fill with dirt or spills?
I stumbled across your video when I was at my lowest, not having a good time. kinda not sure what direction I'm going in with my life and your video made me feel the passion I used to feel a few years ago, seeing you do jobs properly and the awesome tools you have gives me some hope to keep going. Thank you.
I do the same... build separate toe kicks for my cabinet installs. One benefit you can add to making them separately... building them out of pressure teated lumber (plywood or 2x4 stock like I did). It is advantageous in situations like garages and basements, where the cabinets may be sitting directly on concrete floors.
Just instead of using a little spirit level, I raise the level line 2 to 3 centimetres above the kicker. Them I find the highest pois on my kicker. Thank I use a little block to draw a line where the highest part is. Then I use this block all the way over the kicker and packing up where it is necessary.
Thanks for this pair of videos. I'm putting cabinets in my new shop in the next few months and was planning on something pretty much like this. Good to see your process and get a refresher. Nicely done.
It’s been a while since I’ve installed cabinets. I was trying to remember how I was taught how to level them out. This is very similar and I think, if you can do it, a better way. Thanks so much for sharing.
Professional Finish Carpenter/Cabinet guy here; First off, separate toe-kicks for the win! By far the best way to do it. Unfortunately, in my area, so few cabinet shops do them separately :/ I did have one question: What's with the torpedo level? You're already using a laser. If the laser is touching the front of the kick and you can still see it above the back side of the kick, then your kick is sitting perfectly in the middle of the laser, therefore level. You're 12" torpedo isn't telling you anything that the laser isn't already.
I watched this video and the companion video many times over to make sure I absorb and learn the method before I apply it. I'm a novice DIY-er, but I have built a few cabinets already. I really think the methods you show and explain will improve the quality of my cabinets and remove some of the the hassles that I've had. I plan to build a bedroom wardrobe next using the techniques you show. I have a question: In the first shot of the video the cabinet is just a box... the bottom panel of the cabinet sits flush on the table. But a few seconds later, when the cupboards are on the floor (and even later when you install them on the base) there's an extra piece underneath the cabinets... At 0:15, the piece is visible on the bottom of the 4 cabinets which will have drawers, but hidden on the other 3 , but they are all at the same height. so i guess all the cabinets have the piece underneath. Do you have any other video explaining what those are for?
I appreciate you making this video. It was super timely and helpful as I'm tackling my first built-in's redoing our laundry room. Used this method to get a solid and level base for the cabinets. Great info!
It’s a lot easier to put your drawer slides in when it’s on your workstation versus When it’s installed. And you’re right about building toe kick in cabinet separate because you get six Sides out of a piece of plywood versus four if you build them with the toe kick attached
... Yeah, that was my main reason to switch to this method, saves a lot of time and material when sizing down casework plywood, and then I realized how much easier leveling became. I use separate sheets of 3/4" acx plywood and make three-sided 'u's for the ends and four sided wider boxes for the mid pieces. I drill 1-1/4" holes in the top pieces to allow for direct/ not angled screw down of the plinth/kickplate units to the floor and not angled screw down of cases to plinth. This is extra work and viewed as overkill, but it makes install much easier and more precise and creates a rock solid base for cabinets and also for facing the plinth with same tile/wood/vinyl as flooring and that plinth facing can be easily installed before cabinet placement.
i actually started preferring heavy duty plastic cabinet leveling feet. they are so easy to level, even on very uneven floors. they travel well, in case you ever move. since the front toe kick clips onto them, they give you very easy access below the cabinets, in case you ever want to add electrical, or plumbing. they are quick, easy and cheap... the only real negative is that they feel weird to use, as its not quality woodworking, but "just" using plastic parts. But overall, they seem like a surperior way to do things to me.
Can you do another video about how to properly scribe and get those face frames against the wall perfect? I have a hard time finding a good video about scribing. Thanks! Awesome video I learned a lot.
Good video. It's been about 40 years since I have done cabinets. I'll practice first with garage cabinets, then build family room cabinets and finally build upper and lower kitchen cabinets. I'm glad you gave your tips. Many I had forgotten. My question is: From start to finish about how long did it take for the project. Again, good video.
For low level units like these I find plastic adjustable feet alongside the space plugs or just a wall plate to fix units in place so much quicker overall than building a ladder frame. If you ever need to access for any electrical cables under the units the plastic feet are a winner. I do use the ladder frames if I'm fitting taller, heavier units though as it offers a much sturdier base needed
A friend of mine installed my cabinets in the same way. However, he bradnailed small pieces of plywood at the bottom, and proceeded to peel them layer by layer and pound the nail further in every time he needed the base to be lowered, and added shims to lift things up. The cabinets are rock solid!
I've used shims to level cabinets, but have learned another way and that is to use rectangular feet that are placed on the floor and screwed into the base sides in the corners. The base sits on these feet.
These screw type adjusters are prone to going out of adjustment over the years as the floor flexes from walking on it which releases the tension that keeps the screw from turning. You can use a jam nut on the adjusters to stop this from happening.
Did I see two electrical outlets being buried behind the cabinets? I would appreciate hearing your views on this. We are on our fifth house and I avoid having any electrical that is not accessible. In the case of base cabinets, I would probably have removed the fixtures and the wire going to them. Your thoughts please. Thanks for the video.
I ran a new outlet and switch from that box. The outlet on the right has a cutout and is now in the cabinet. The one on the left is still accessible behind the drawer boxes. The is no back panel in the cabinet.
Do you follow this same process when the end of the cabinets are visible? The toe kick would then be visually separate from the cabinets. Thank you for your amazing videos!
I've used this method and I like it. But I prefer using the plastic feet in kitchens and bathrooms. You can pop the toe kick off and store things like extra floor and wall tile underneath. And two inches of water means nothing. Especially if you are there to pop off the toe kick before it gets wet but even if it does it's just a strip of ply.
I really like this “ladder” technique, I agree, you can’t beat the end result’s for a joint level system across multiple cabinets. One question, how does this work when the end of your cabinet is exposed, a finish grade side? How can you achieve a smooth panel dropping all the way to the floor?
Great video, Jason~! I really like the design of using a separate toe-kick. I'm in the process of building my miter saw station and this is the way I'll be mounting those cabinets. It just seems like an easier way to get them level, especially with the imperfect cement floor in my shop. Your build technique makes it look even easier than what I've already seen. Thanks for sharing this~!
Jason, enjoy watching and learning from a true professional. I see a small strip across the lower front of each cabinet. What is the purpose of those strips?
Always admire the simplicity of your thinking processes Jason, as well as your presentation. I like to take your approach to make shop cabinets set on a common base, however; not to fix it to a wall. Rather set the base on heavy duty leveling casters to be able to move if necessary. Any drawbacks to setting the cabinet base on casters that you see?
Thanks for the video I like the información, but I just want o to suggest on thing., If I where you I use longer level, that little level is to used on short or small spaces.
This might be my favorite video of yours! I have a question. It looks like you've added a lip on the front of the bottom of the cabinet. I washed your other video on building the cabinet and didn't see it there. Is that a spacer to keep you from pushing the cabinet back too far?
Two questions. How do you attach the decorative part of the kickboard to the front of that kickboard assembly. Adhesive? Second, is there a method you've used to avoid screwing the cabinets to the base? In cupboards (as opposed to drawers where it doesn't matter), having screws or those little white stickers can be unsightly. That's one benefit of the plastic adjustable feet is you don't need to screw anything into from the top side of the cabinet.
I dont recall you mentioning the little piece of ply under the bottom of the front of each cabinet in either video. I assume that they are screwed in from the bottom. How far back from the front did you go? 2"? 3"? Those also help the front of the cabinets line up all the same too. I like that. These are great videos. I am about to start building (and documenting on my channel) a set of cabinets for my 2 car garage converted to my wood shop and I plan to build them this way. I first saw the separate toe kick idea on Mike Farrington's channel and thought it was brilliant. So I guess great minds think alike. :)
One of the main reasons I prefer framed cabinets over frameless is the fact that you have a little more wiggle room in between each cabinet to get a perfectly straight bank of cabinets. I haven’t installed many frameless but I can see how that could potentially be an issue. Unless of course you build your own and know for a fact that they are perfect boxes. Great video!
That was wonderful, thanks for the info. I hope you’re doing well, I couldn’t help but notice you were grunting a bit along the way as if you pulled your back or were in some sort of pain. Take care and thanks for this video. 👍🏽
As a qualified Kitchen designer, Manufacturer and installer here in NZ. I got slammed for years for building my cabinet bases like yourself. My competitors told clients I was charging for unnecessary materials and labour's instead of using cheaper plastic adjustable feet (even though it made installation faster)... Until, jobs I lost of my competitors suffered from major cracking issues in their stone/marble benchtops, due to poorly unsupported cabinets. My reputation grew extremely quickly after that while others suffered from cutting corners. I have never seen or heard of people (besides myself) take the extra time to manufacturer bases like you've shown here. I applaud you for making the effort towards doing things correctly. After our increasing market share we changed our slogan to "If things are worth doing, Their worth doing right" seem cheesy but it worked. Great sharing of you knowledge Sir. Wish more people on the industry thought like this.
I don't know where Bent is but I'm a finish carpenter in California. I've done both commercial and residential. 99% of the cabinets I've installed use toe kicked like what you see in this video. Although most use smaller/shorter sleepers that don't go all the way to the floor. There are situations where a toe kick needs to be scribed to the floor, in that case it's difficult to cut and sand those interior supports/sleepers.
Right on. Not tellin' you how to do your business, but since your slogan literally says it's worth doing right: I recommend changing your spelling of "their" to "they're." Carpenter on!
Perhaps a silly question: why do you not install on top of the flooring? Is there some standard that requires this? If your method is 'best practice', what's the benefit? Thanks!
Floating floor means no attachment to the floor (strangely called a subfloor in the U.S.). There is a small gap around the perimeter of the room that allows the flooring planks to expand. They can also contract some when cold. This is totally dependent on the specific flooring type; for example, planks with stone-powder base are supposed to be dimensionally stable. On the other hand, a house built with wood is not 100% stable dimensionally.
I've always been a fan of a separate toe-kick/platform for exactly the reasons you mention. When I did the kitchen at our old property back in 2003, it really wasn't optional because of how bad the floor was to work over...it was full thickness brick set in mortar and the word "level" was not ever something possible.
Hi, Thank you for your great videos, very interesting and helpful. I am writing because in both of these videos I could see your hand pass over your bench circular saw & the only reason for you not cutting your hand was height. Please be extra careful and make above your saw a restricted airspace - "No Hand Zone" or "No Fly Zone" !?! (In this one it is at about 0:39 seconds)... (In Stop Overbuilding it is at about 6:16 & 6:23)
I use scrap plywood to make an upside down ''U'' to put the cabinets on, so the whole depth of the toekick is in plywood. This doesn't allow for the toekick to be screwed into the wall as you don't have access, but it has the benefit that you can slide your cabinets very easily over the toekick, especially handy for high cabinets such as wardrobes. And on top of that you can screw the cabinets on the toekick wherever you want. I normally have plenty of scrap plywood or MDF as every time I'm supplied with sheet materials, my supplier also has sheets to cover and protect the furniture grade sheets.
a 10 minute video and literally every second is good info... nice
ladder box toe kicks have been SOP for us since the early 80's. solid and speeds up install. thumbs up
This is Old School Carpentry, if the base is solid and level the rest falls in place . . .glad to see someone put the time in to show others Old School techniques +++ points for that
True, I've been doing this since the early 90's.
@dannyoktim9628 Couldn't agree more. Please to hear your another professional in this industry intentionally choosing to do things correctly Unfortunately this type of knowledge and skills are lacking and hard to find these days.
@@PennsPens
In my 20 years I've only seen plastic leveling legs/feet a handful of times. It's almost always plywood or pressure treated lumber toe kicks.
I've been doing this for the last 40 years, its absolutely the best way to install cabinets. Old home remodels where you have a 3" difference in floor from 1 side to the other. Glad to see someone else doing it this way. Have had quite a few contractors just look at me and shake their heads like I;m crazy!! Great video as always!!
' 3" difference in the floor ' Really?!? I would be concerned about some underlying structural issues before a kitchen remodel, unless their new Kitch Cabs are on a 3/12 roof 🤷🏾 whatever you say Boss!
Agreed on the method. Really dont like individually leveling. Never had anything 3" out but got close. Built a kitchen once that had around 2-1/2" of slope across 16' or so of cabinets. House was framed that way if you can believe that. In a luxury neighborhood too. I thought for sure something was going on with the foundation, maybe termites in the structure but nope.
@@W0J0SM0J0 You get that sometimes when a house has a hundred or more years to settle.
For kitchen cabinets, I install drawer slides and drawers in the toe kicks. They are great for the rarely used roasting pans and cookie sheets.
do you just make a U shaped box? with the L's and T's as he does here?
Seems like efficient use of space in a small kitchen. Any downsides to consider?
@@esteban62 if you have un-level floors the bottom of the drawers can bind
@@schteve8476
Yes, the drawer faces could be scribed perfectly to the floor while in the closed postition then bind when opened, there goes your perfect scribe. Or to have an even gap when close it needs to be 1/2". On the other hand, the floor could be decent and a uniform eighth inch gap can work.
Personally, for cleanliness, I prefer to have the kicks, carcasses and counter tops of kitchen cabinets caulked/hermetically sealed. Having those gaps means crumbs are an open invitation to bugs. How often does one pull the drawers and clean underneath them?
Isn't that for the mice to run loose? Lol
You have what it takes to be a great teacher, precise without BS.
No nonsense approach - gets the job done efficiently. I like it.
I have built a lot of cabinets with the toe kick built in, but after watching Brent's video, I chose to use this method when remodeling my kitchen. I have a 140 year old home and the floors and walls are anything but level and plumb. The separate toe kick was just the ticket! I would have struggled trying to level the individual cabinets. Thanks for the idea! The cabinets went in without a hitch. Sometimes we can't see the forest because of the trees.
Regarding the laser, I find it's best to set the laser line 2 or 3 inches above the toe kick. Find the high spot then set a block of wood on the high spot on the toe kick, mark the laser on the block then shim up each section until the block shows level to the laser. Setting up the laser above the toe kick, offset, allows you to accurately level the front and the back of the toe kick using the laser. No spirit level is needed.
This is fundamental and I'm really surprised to see someone making a "how to level" video introducing another error factor and defeating the purpose of having a self-leveling laser line as a reference. SMH
@@DiffEQ
When I was an apprentice I found out the hard way that laser levels can go kerflooey. Since then I check them regularly.
Setting the laser a hair above the highest spot works too, so it barely grazes over the toe kick in the front and back.
@@PlatypusxOuroboros
2 to 3 inches above is better, then use a small block with a pencil mark.
@@thekinarbo ...mmm and you are 100% CORRECT ! during my 30 plus year on construction sites - I saw many construction workers relying on their laser to be perfect all of he time and they never ever checked them ! My boss bought a brand new self leveling laser and I checked it and it was only off 1/4 inch in 10 feet ! He was SHOCKED and returned it and made sure the new one read perfect before he left the store !
Your videos are extremely well done. The angles, lighting and the way that you describe the process makes it all a very nice package. Thank you!
As a flooring installer that occasionally needs to pry off the toe kick to get my flooring together, I appreciate the the way your cabinets are constructed. Well done!
I'm familiar with this method. When I worked for my brothers-in-law in construction many years ago, we did several jobs installing cabinets commercially. They were all built this way. We simply leveled the bases, then set the cabinets on top. Easy peasy!
Going to be building cabinets for the first and have really gotten a lot of good information . Feel much better about the upcoming project. Thank you for your time
You’re welcome!
I attach a level ledger board across the wall. Place boxes on top and use the plastic adjustable legs for the front. So simple and always perfectly level.
Yes that's basic carpentry.
Yeah I do that too. It's basically the system used by IKEA kitchen cabinets. I don't get why he spent so much time and materials building a level base when you can just level the top.
@@decodemodern Because he's the most anal woodworker on TH-cam.
@@decodemodern Thats exactly why Ikea installers (and products) have an extremely poor reputation by real professionals in the kitchen industry. Plastic feet don't support the weight of cabinetry, Particularly with stone type benchtops causing the tops to fail and crack due to Plastic feet unable to support the weight.
Poor insulation provides poor results. Even this TH-camr understands cabinetry better than you do! Shame on you - Cowboy
@sethguenuberg Thats exactly why installers like yourself have an extremely poor reputation by real professionals in the kitchen industry. Plastic feet don't support the weight of cabinetry, Particularly with stone type benchtops causing the tops to fail and crack due to plastic feet being unable to support the weight of cabinetry (even with standard benchtops).
Poor insulation provides poor results. Even this TH-camr understands cabinetry better than you do! Shame on you - ya Cowboy.
Think you should seriously consider a better suited job that requires zero skills more suited to your skill level (or lack of).
Customers pay good money for kitchens So Leave these jobs to the real people who know what their doing.
Thanks, I was one of the fellows who asked you about toe kicks. Good method, makes sense.
I used this method on a recent project. It made the installation go much smoother and faster. Great results. Thanks
Great video as always. As somebody who has never built a toe kick before, nor a cabinet for that matter, I have a couple of suggestions that came to mind.
Firstly when measuring the cabinets for the support positions you could instead just place either the front or back across the cabinets and mark them directly.
Secondly as you have a nice flat and level work surface to build on, I'd suggest building the toe kick upside down. This ensures that the top surface will be flat and level for the cabinets as the bottom surface of the toe kick doesn't matter - It will be shimmed anyway.
Both great points. 👍
Awesome content! I really appreciate how thorough and detailed you are with every step. Eliminates all possible headaches once placing the cabinets, spot on sir!
Glad it was helpful!
There are a ton of great woodworkers on TH-cam but I will say I always learn a ton from you. I have watched all your cabinet making videos going back several years. I had never made a cabinet when I watched your first one. Since then I have made many including a kitchen remodel. Thanks and keep them coming.
My former neighbor, calls himself a handyman, but has extensive experience building and remodeling homes. He was building new cabinets in his garage for his new home. He taught me the same method. He said build you toe kick frame, then spend the time to level it. Once that’s done, attach your cabinets on top. Then your not fighting each cabinet to be level and matching the other ones.
The cabinets I install are not handmade and come with toe kicks cut into the carcass panel. I suppose before assembly I could hit them with the tracksaw and be ready to move into install onto new base when time. What do you think would be the best solution so I could take advantage of this leveling hack?
@@RunDMS I'm not sure I'd remove the toe kicks from your cabinets just to use this method. You're creating more work for yourself that way, and it'll take longer than just leveling each cabinet. Sure it might seem tedious to do each cabinet, but having pre-made cabinets with toe-kicks isn't the end of the world.
@@JP-hj2gs Thanks. I usually secure two together through the face frames and set them as pairs to help lower my leveling time. It’s good.. not perfect by any stretch. Thanks for reply.
Really enjoying these videos. I'd love to see you keep it going with scribing the filler strips and the top to the walls, and scribing the toe kick.
one of the best videos ive seen and being a floorguy i appreciate the fact you cut the laminate floor back as it should be.
the base construction takes all the work outta cabinet installation, plus when backed up with a laser and comp shims quality is sky high.
you got a new subscriber!
👍
Looks as if the floor is up tight against the base. Should there not be a 3/8 expansion space, covered with some base shoe?
I would use EZ level devises on the toe kick assembly for a solid and easy leveling process. Also, i would cut the flooring back an additional 1/4" for its expansion. I do enjoy the no no-nonsense feel of your videos .
I agree. Need that space for floating floor expansion. I need to do that for my installation. Any advice for expansion joint caulking so the 1/4 space does not fill with dirt or spills?
Best explanation i've seen to level cabs so far!
Thank you so much! I’m glad it was helpful
You can set the laser higher than the base and mark a line or dot on a little block and use that too shim the back !!
Crystal clear and professional. Great video
I stumbled across your video when I was at my lowest, not having a good time. kinda not sure what direction I'm going in with my life and your video made me feel the passion I used to feel a few years ago, seeing you do jobs properly and the awesome tools you have gives me some hope to keep going. Thank you.
You got this!
Thanks for posting this. I've been wanting to use this method but hadn't see it addressed anywhere.
Nice work. This method is a keeper for all who do cabinets on a semi-routine basis. thanks.
I do the same... build separate toe kicks for my cabinet installs. One benefit you can add to making them separately... building them out of pressure teated lumber (plywood or 2x4 stock like I did). It is advantageous in situations like garages and basements, where the cabinets may be sitting directly on concrete floors.
Thanks!
Thank you!!
Just instead of using a little spirit level, I raise the level line 2 to 3 centimetres above the kicker. Them I find the highest pois on my kicker.
Thank I use a little block to draw a line where the highest part is. Then I use this block all the way over the kicker and packing up where it is necessary.
Some very good tips and demo, Bent. So much easier to level than built-in toe kicks.
Thank You for posting I was taught a very similar method many years ago by a German cabinet maker.
something i do almost every week but it's always good to see how others do their craft, get another's perspective
Really good method and makes the cabinet carcasses a little easier to construct
Thank You and I am glad I found your Channel. Keep Up The Good Work
I used your L and T method for the toe kick. I really like this method!
Great to hear!
Never done cabinet installation, but learned a lot from this simple but well put video.
Great video. All the information needed without a bunch of extra talking. Informational AND interesting. I learned a lot in a few minutes. Thank you!!
What a great plan. This will save me so much time building out my shop cabinets.
Nice! Found this channel by mistake and it's perfect for some books shelves I am about to set up.
Welcome aboard!
This is the best advice I have ever seen regarding cabinetry. Thank you so much for making this excellent video!👍
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this pair of videos. I'm putting cabinets in my new shop in the next few months and was planning on something pretty much like this. Good to see your process and get a refresher. Nicely done.
Glad you found it helpful!
It’s been a while since I’ve installed cabinets. I was trying to remember how I was taught how to level them out. This is very similar and I think, if you can do it, a better way. Thanks so much for sharing.
Glad I could help!
Professional Finish Carpenter/Cabinet guy here;
First off, separate toe-kicks for the win! By far the best way to do it. Unfortunately, in my area, so few cabinet shops do them separately :/
I did have one question: What's with the torpedo level? You're already using a laser. If the laser is touching the front of the kick and you can still see it above the back side of the kick, then your kick is sitting perfectly in the middle of the laser, therefore level. You're 12" torpedo isn't telling you anything that the laser isn't already.
Great.....I’ve done units similar and having a plinth base, levelled through is a good way to go. Well done!
I watched this video and the companion video many times over to make sure I absorb and learn the method before I apply it. I'm a novice DIY-er, but I have built a few cabinets already. I really think the methods you show and explain will improve the quality of my cabinets and remove some of the the hassles that I've had. I plan to build a bedroom wardrobe next using the techniques you show.
I have a question: In the first shot of the video the cabinet is just a box... the bottom panel of the cabinet sits flush on the table. But a few seconds later, when the cupboards are on the floor (and even later when you install them on the base) there's an extra piece underneath the cabinets... At 0:15, the piece is visible on the bottom of the 4 cabinets which will have drawers, but hidden on the other 3 , but they are all at the same height. so i guess all the cabinets have the piece underneath.
Do you have any other video explaining what those are for?
Those are there as a backer for what later became my base trim. They give me something to nail too
Thorough explanation with great demonstration. Thank you!!
I appreciate you making this video. It was super timely and helpful as I'm tackling my first built-in's redoing our laundry room. Used this method to get a solid and level base for the cabinets. Great info!
Glad you found it helpful
Amazing tutorial - something I often come across and this video has helped a lot in my initial start of any project.
Glad you found it helpful
Best cabinet installation video I have seen. Thank you for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it
It’s a lot easier to put your drawer slides in when it’s on your workstation versus When it’s installed. And you’re right about building toe kick in cabinet separate because you get six Sides out of a piece of plywood versus four if you build them with the toe kick attached
... Yeah, that was my main reason to switch to this method, saves a lot of time and material when sizing down casework plywood, and then I realized how much easier leveling became. I use separate sheets of 3/4" acx plywood and make three-sided 'u's for the ends and four sided wider boxes for the mid pieces. I drill 1-1/4" holes in the top pieces to allow for direct/ not angled screw down of the plinth/kickplate units to the floor and not angled screw down of cases to plinth. This is extra work and viewed as overkill, but it makes install much easier and more precise and creates a rock solid base for cabinets and also for facing the plinth with same tile/wood/vinyl as flooring and that plinth facing can be easily installed before cabinet placement.
this is a great help, and so well explained thankyou! Will help me heaps as I am about to embark on a fitted 'robe project!
That was absolutely brilliant! I will be following your method from here on. Thanks for taking the time to compile and post.
i actually started preferring heavy duty plastic cabinet leveling feet. they are so easy to level, even on very uneven floors. they travel well, in case you ever move. since the front toe kick clips onto them, they give you very easy access below the cabinets, in case you ever want to add electrical, or plumbing. they are quick, easy and cheap... the only real negative is that they feel weird to use, as its not quality woodworking, but "just" using plastic parts. But overall, they seem like a surperior way to do things to me.
@@bs838 yeps. definetly not cheap. very true. but compared to the rest of the cabinet cost these days, its not terrible.
I have used those in the past and I do like them. I actually find this simpler
"In case you ever move?" Are you taking your cabinets with you when you move houses?? lol
I started using the ez level system with ladder platform best system I have found so far and works very well.
If I built them, I'd take them if I moved.
Can you do another video about how to properly scribe and get those face frames against the wall perfect? I have a hard time finding a good video about scribing. Thanks! Awesome video I learned a lot.
Yes!!
That was a brilliant explanation, your a gifted teacher!
a load of rubbish level and scribe cut scribe line off.done.
Good video. It's been about 40 years since I have done cabinets. I'll practice first with garage cabinets, then build family room cabinets and finally build upper and lower kitchen cabinets. I'm glad you gave your tips. Many I had forgotten. My question is: From start to finish about how long did it take for the project. Again, good video.
Omg! Lovin that office glass door.
For low level units like these I find plastic adjustable feet alongside the space plugs or just a wall plate to fix units in place so much quicker overall than building a ladder frame. If you ever need to access for any electrical cables under the units the plastic feet are a winner. I do use the ladder frames if I'm fitting taller, heavier units though as it offers a much sturdier base needed
A friend of mine installed my cabinets in the same way. However, he bradnailed small pieces of plywood at the bottom, and proceeded to peel them layer by layer and pound the nail further in every time he needed the base to be lowered, and added shims to lift things up. The cabinets are rock solid!
Wow! So many super valuable tips right here. Thank you for sharing.
I've used shims to level cabinets, but have learned another way and that is to use rectangular feet that are placed on the floor and screwed into the base sides in the corners. The base sits on these feet.
These screw type adjusters are prone to going out of adjustment over the years as the floor flexes from walking on it which releases the tension that keeps the screw from turning. You can use a jam nut on the adjusters to stop this from happening.
Did I see two electrical outlets being buried behind the cabinets? I would appreciate hearing your views on this. We are on our fifth house and I avoid having any electrical that is not accessible. In the case of base cabinets, I would probably have removed the fixtures and the wire going to them. Your thoughts please. Thanks for the video.
I ran a new outlet and switch from that box. The outlet on the right has a cutout and is now in the cabinet. The one on the left is still accessible behind the drawer boxes. The is no back panel in the cabinet.
Do you follow this same process when the end of the cabinets are visible? The toe kick would then be visually separate from the cabinets. Thank you for your amazing videos!
It most cases I would add a panel at the end.
@bentswoodworking thank you, would you use 1/4" ply? If so, how do you deal with the extra 1/4" from the front?
@@bentswoodworking I love your videos and want to try this style of cabinet building. Would you please explain how you'd add a panel at the end?
I’ve been building my cabinets this way for decades!
This is the way. The cabinets i put in 20 yrs ago are still in perfect condition. Refinish on doors and face veneer is all we have done .
Really nice explanation of the toe kick base. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I've used this method and I like it. But I prefer using the plastic feet in kitchens and bathrooms. You can pop the toe kick off and store things like extra floor and wall tile underneath. And two inches of water means nothing. Especially if you are there to pop off the toe kick before it gets wet but even if it does it's just a strip of ply.
I really like this “ladder” technique, I agree, you can’t beat the end result’s for a joint level system across multiple cabinets. One question, how does this work when the end of your cabinet is exposed, a finish grade side? How can you achieve a smooth panel dropping all the way to the floor?
He doesn't know.... lol
I do the same method, except I use unfinished plywood, I glue and nail the toe kick together
Great video, Jason~! I really like the design of using a separate toe-kick. I'm in the process of building my miter saw station and this is the way I'll be mounting those cabinets. It just seems like an easier way to get them level, especially with the imperfect cement floor in my shop. Your build technique makes it look even easier than what I've already seen. Thanks for sharing this~!
Jason, enjoy watching and learning from a true professional. I see a small strip across the lower front of each cabinet. What is the purpose of those strips?
why do you need cut the floor? Is there a reason that you cannot put the toekick directly on top of the finished flooring plank?
ooo man, i wish i've seen this video sooner. i was using 2 x 4 all these while. i like yr process of levelling. thanks man
For garages and basements where things might get wet, I used plastic adjustable feet.
Will try Mick, thank you for demonstrating.
Always admire the simplicity of your thinking processes Jason, as well as your presentation. I like to take your approach to make shop cabinets set on a common base, however; not to fix it to a wall. Rather set the base on heavy duty leveling casters to be able to move if necessary. Any drawbacks to setting the cabinet base on casters that you see?
Thanks for the video I like the información, but I just want o to suggest on thing., If I where you I use longer level, that little level is to used on short or small spaces.
Thanks
Very informative. Curious of how you would secure the shims on a concrete slab foundation? Love watching your videos!
This might be my favorite video of yours! I have a question. It looks like you've added a lip on the front of the bottom of the cabinet. I washed your other video on building the cabinet and didn't see it there. Is that a spacer to keep you from pushing the cabinet back too far?
Best method for cabinet installing.
Loved seeing you out of the workshop putting some stuff together and you made that look easy im going to start doing this! another fantastic video
Two questions. How do you attach the decorative part of the kickboard to the front of that kickboard assembly. Adhesive? Second, is there a method you've used to avoid screwing the cabinets to the base? In cupboards (as opposed to drawers where it doesn't matter), having screws or those little white stickers can be unsightly. That's one benefit of the plastic adjustable feet is you don't need to screw anything into from the top side of the cabinet.
Simple, informative, relaxing and awesome.
Countersink used? Please and thank you
Been doing the ladder bases for years also you get a better yield from you sheets 30 inches times 3 = 90 inches. Great video and subject
I dont recall you mentioning the little piece of ply under the bottom of the front of each cabinet in either video. I assume that they are screwed in from the bottom. How far back from the front did you go? 2"? 3"? Those also help the front of the cabinets line up all the same too. I like that. These are great videos. I am about to start building (and documenting on my channel) a set of cabinets for my 2 car garage converted to my wood shop and I plan to build them this way. I first saw the separate toe kick idea on Mike Farrington's channel and thought it was brilliant. So I guess great minds think alike. :)
I was wondering the same thing. It's not in his box building video.
One of the main reasons I prefer framed cabinets over frameless is the fact that you have a little more wiggle room in between each cabinet to get a perfectly straight bank of cabinets. I haven’t installed many frameless but I can see how that could potentially be an issue. Unless of course you build your own and know for a fact that they are perfect boxes. Great video!
I've built and installed both frameless and framed cabinets. In my experience, framelss cabinets are easier to build and install.
That was wonderful, thanks for the info. I hope you’re doing well, I couldn’t help but notice you were grunting a bit along the way as if you pulled your back or were in some sort of pain. Take care and thanks for this video. 👍🏽
As a qualified Kitchen designer, Manufacturer and installer here in NZ. I got slammed for years for building my cabinet bases like yourself. My competitors told clients I was charging for unnecessary materials and labour's instead of using cheaper plastic adjustable feet (even though it made installation faster)... Until, jobs I lost of my competitors suffered from major cracking issues in their stone/marble benchtops, due to poorly unsupported cabinets.
My reputation grew extremely quickly after that while others suffered from cutting corners.
I have never seen or heard of people (besides myself) take the extra time to manufacturer bases like you've shown here. I applaud you for making the effort towards doing things correctly.
After our increasing market share we changed our slogan to "If things are worth doing, Their worth doing right" seem cheesy but it worked.
Great sharing of you knowledge Sir. Wish more people on the industry thought like this.
I don't know where Bent is but I'm a finish carpenter in California. I've done both commercial and residential. 99% of the cabinets I've installed use toe kicked like what you see in this video. Although most use smaller/shorter sleepers that don't go all the way to the floor. There are situations where a toe kick needs to be scribed to the floor, in that case it's difficult to cut and sand those interior supports/sleepers.
Right on. Not tellin' you how to do your business, but since your slogan literally says it's worth doing right: I recommend changing your spelling of "their" to "they're." Carpenter on!
Fantastic video :) Saved me a headache. Just one question, what is the dimensions of the toe kick?
Depends on the cabinets. I always do mine 100 mm (4”) tall and do about the same from the edge
Perhaps a silly question: why do you not install on top of the flooring? Is there some standard that requires this? If your method is 'best practice', what's the benefit? Thanks!
Floating floor means no attachment to the floor (strangely called a subfloor in the U.S.). There is a small gap around the perimeter of the room that allows the flooring planks to expand. They can also contract some when cold. This is totally dependent on the specific flooring type; for example, planks with stone-powder base are supposed to be dimensionally stable. On the other hand, a house built with wood is not 100% stable dimensionally.
I've always been a fan of a separate toe-kick/platform for exactly the reasons you mention. When I did the kitchen at our old property back in 2003, it really wasn't optional because of how bad the floor was to work over...it was full thickness brick set in mortar and the word "level" was not ever something possible.
Mount toe kick platform level on wall first then add legs to the front.
Hi, Thank you for your great videos, very interesting and helpful. I am writing because in both of these videos I could see your hand pass over your bench circular saw & the only reason for you not cutting your hand was height. Please be extra careful and make above your saw a restricted airspace - "No Hand Zone" or "No Fly Zone" !?! (In this one it is at about 0:39 seconds)... (In Stop Overbuilding it is at about 6:16 & 6:23)
on those kicks you can add adjustable mini metal legs which can be modified by a simple screw and you dont need plastic for leveling
I use scrap plywood to make an upside down ''U'' to put the cabinets on, so the whole depth of the toekick is in plywood. This doesn't allow for the toekick to be screwed into the wall as you don't have access, but it has the benefit that you can slide your cabinets very easily over the toekick, especially handy for high cabinets such as wardrobes. And on top of that you can screw the cabinets on the toekick wherever you want. I normally have plenty of scrap plywood or MDF as every time I'm supplied with sheet materials, my supplier also has sheets to cover and protect the furniture grade sheets.
What is the plywood strip on the base of each carcass? Is it a spacer to know how far to sit in front of the toe kick?
Good question. I was wondering about that.
Good info!! I’m assuming this method doesn’t work if you have exposed ends.. say cabinets with a raised panel end?