Venom steel doesn’t even need to pay to sponsor videos, they are easily the best gloves I’ve ever used, and I’m sure everyone else already feels the same way. But I’m glad they are throwing some money at you regardless.
Do they do a cotton-lined glove? My problem with nitrile gloves has always been that without some sort of lining my hands get swampy almost immediately.
@@BrooksMoses that’s an interesting upgrade, never seen disposables that do that. The inner lining of these gloves have a coating that seems to be somewhat absorbent (not chalky, but almost the same feel). It takes much longer for my hands to sweat in them, but it’s inevitable. So, I always have a spare pair with me, and when I need to take a break (bathroom, phone, etc) I take off the first pair (let those dry out in the meantime) and slip on the other pair. In fact, these gloves are so quality that I’m able to use those 2 pairs of gloves for days or weeks (depending on what I’m doing).
@@thezackast2752 I buy my venom gloves at Lowe’s. Treat yourself and see what you think. Oh and I just recently watched Project Farm (an awesome review channel on TH-cam) do one in gloves (it’s not a new video, but I only now just saw it), and he picks venom steel as his top choice.
It's probably an angle of view problem, but I find the headrest part a little bit short. From my perspective, 2 inches more wouldn't be a bad thing, just to provide a better support for the cushion and ultimately, to the head. But it's a great tribute to Le Corbusier design, well done sir.
I thought the same but some design changes might be needed since it the additional weight would impact the balance. I would be real if the plans he made could scale based on a person's measurements. Although. from a business point of view it would suck having to make custom forms for each sale.
I learned that you need to be careful when you spray in your first layer, the corners fill up with dry over spray. Since they aren't thoroughly wet, they are brittle when you pull the mold.
@@modustrial I used to work at a factory where we manufactured exactly this type of thin (15-20mm usually) and super strong concrete panels. First layer was always done by 2 people, one guy used air gun to blow away the dry stuff and second guy followed with nozzle that sprayed concrete mixed with fiberglass (we had fancier machinery that cut the fiberglass to desired size and kinda mixed it with concrete while shooting out), blowing out corners with air was particularly important and had to be done almost at the same time with second guy who sprayed concrete. If you suspect that there's some dry stuff left in corners you can blow it out even after corners are sprayed with concrete and just respray again and it will come out fine. Very nice video overally.
Ok I will put in my two cents. For the blocks underneath, if you make them larger to fill the space, you will give a different look which I think would look nice but also be adding strength to the seat . Hook for a pillow would be nice but a pillow with elastic band would work just as well while making adjustable up and down easy. (Con. Elastic bands tend to stretch or break after time, just as any straps used on hooks)
Looks great for a prototype. I’m by no way a designer nor do I have your skill, but a couple of tweaks I’d be tempted to make would be… 1. Cut a drainage channel in the curved recess of the base, preferably the full width and all the way through, this would allow your wood treatment to be used in the channel which didn’t seem to be the case with the drilled holes, and could also be less prone to blockage. 2. Maybe round the corners a bit, it could potentially prevent them breaking when releasing from the form, but would also have the advantage of taking some of the sting out of the accidental catching of a passing ankle or thigh (or child’s head). As a first time viewer, I’ll be back for more.
Rounding all the 4 corners of the concrete is a great idea. Well done sir. Couple of questions; What’s the weight of the concrete? And can you use it without the wooden base? If you can eliminate the wood base? Would it become a rocking lounge chair? Great workmanship.
I recently watched someone use a sheet a plastic instead of spacers when laminating. It allowed him to precisely place the laminate right where he wanted it and then had someone slowly pull the plastic sheet out while he rolled it.
The chair turned out beautifully. If it isn't too impolite, I might suggest a cordless option where you inset a little hidden drawer into the wooden base where a USB cable can plug into a small 10,000mAh power bank that will keep those lights charged. You just pull open the hidden drawer on the side to remove/swap out/recharge the power bank for the lights. Then you can put the chair anywhere, indoor or outside on a covered patio and not have a trip hazard with the cord running out from the bottom.
That came out really cool, cool idea! One piece of advice I would have whenever a big corner is cut out like that is drill a small hole and use a small metal "staple" (rebar) or something so the new concrete has something to adhere to. The small patch on the corner is going to be really weak and likely break off without it.
Dr. Edmund Toth at the University of Illinois pioneered the design and construction of thin plate concrete design. It takes knowledge, skill and strict attention to detail to get the correct results. The lounge is impressive.
Cyprus is an island country in the Mediterranean, near Italy and Greece. Cypress is a naturally rot and insect resistant wood. It’s got one issue, and that is it splits if you look at it sideways. Pre-drill every single screw hole, folks. (Don’t ask me if cypress grows on Cyprus. Look it up for yourself.)
Great video: no bullshit, no annoying music, no repeating rambling and just explaining what has to be explained. Chapeau brother, a new subscriber. I really love the new look on concrete using the fiberglass, perfect, so many dumb mistakes with the regular concrete: steel too much on the edge and taking away the boards too soon. I was really pleased to see the drying of the concrete under a sheet of plastic. Keeping the moisture in to let the concrete finish. Thanks for sharing from Mexico.
I know that the chair would absolutely be comfortable because some of my best nights of sleep have been in hospital beds where I contort to that position to sleep
I used to work at a cement factory. For a challenge we built two concrete canoes, similar mix as you used but probably only 10mm thick. They were used in a 12 hour canoeing marathon and were totally successful.
Lots of people think water helps wood move and bend, it's really the heat. With heat you don't really need moisture, but it does help a lot. This comes from a former guitar builder.
I have always loved the Le Corbusier chaise, and have one. The neat feature of the chaise is the ability to easily adjust the recline. Adding some friction rollers to the base to allow for positioning the recline would be fantastic. (Love the magnet idea for pillow as well)
Since you are doing the cement layout upside down maybe add 2 buttons or something in the top backside so you can hang a pillow like in the original concept for the idea.
A change that could really make this design so much more impressive is creating tapered sides, like the last 3 inches go from 3/4 inch thick to 1/4 inch thick. It wouldn't really affect the overall strength of the chair but would fool the eye making it look like the whole chair only being 1/4 inch thick.
The overall look is great!! Here’s an idea for your LED light assembly. Two rings of copper tape on the bottom side. The LED leads solder to the the rings. The power wires can be soldered ti pieces of copper or aluminum that is bent into an arc and mounted to a thin block of wood. You will then be able to spin 360° and not worry about the wires ripping off
All of the additives in the concrete mix make it cure more slowly, but if it's .750" thick then that's not an issue, so this is the perfect use case. Smart!
You could use silicone inside the corners of the mold to avoid the sharp edges that tend to crack. And to be fair the furniture was designed by Charlotte Perriand who worked with Le Corbusier as an interior designer.
Mike is highly intelligent AND talented, that makes for successful projects, and I bet we'll see more of his work making it into design magazines and blogs. Great concept and a beautiful piece!
Thanks for sharing this video. It was my first time visiting your channel, and it paid off. I give you a thumbs-up. I have used the same technique to build fireplaces here in Finland. The first project was completed ten years ago, and the fireplace is used daily to heat the house. The concrete and other parts of the fireplace still look new, so with the technology you presented, it is possible to make solid parts. My fireplace parts are 10 mm (0.40 inch) thick. An interior design magazine wrote an article about my fireplace and called it "the mother of all fireplaces".
That looks great, some adjustable arm rests would be a nice addition, made from the same type of wood. They could be made adjustable from behind the lounge back!
I just watch you for fun and never really done any DIY or home renovation, but just enjoy watching you as a person :) thanks for all the hard work! I hope you're focusing on your health also.
I never knew that concrete could be sprayed, i knew that concrete can be really thin, but didnt realize it could be sprayed through a machine. Thats cool as hell!
add 38mm 1 1/2 inch radius to the corners and add 2 degree draft to the all mould sides. Then add 3 holes of 1/2 inch 12.7 mm dia where the head pillow will go for a toggle and strap. Maybe also consider the ankle area, you also need a hole in the "butt" area to stop water pooling. NOTE: these holes can also be used for "blow release" to demould without the use of mechanical aids and possible damage.
Check gypsum concrete (gypsum is the mould), it is extremely strong, and also cheap and fairly simple to create molds. In Hungary stairs are made of it, it is just 2,5 cm thick. It is reinforced by thin metal bars and poured liquid (cement to aggregate ratio 1:1).
American Society of Civil Engineers has a concrete canoe contest. The teams get really scientific with the concrete mixes that they use, as if normal concrete wasn't already very scientific, and I believe the concrete canoes are thinner than 3/4". I don't know what the final strength of your mix is but you could have fairly high tensile strength. If you had for instance 5000 compressive strength concrete the tensile strength would be about 500 psi. It's not linear though, doubling the compressive strength only increases the tensile strength by 40%. 500 psi is only 1/6 or less the strength of wood if you had curved wood pieces similarly. The mesh you put in it won't do anything to add strength until the concrete itself has already cracked, it would be the same even if you had put steel in it. I don't think the chair will have unlimited strength, I would suggest not trying to sit on the top of it. You should build another one and do some load tests with it. The router tearout is a problem when going the direction against the grain. You would have to start at the high point of that particular board and cut both directions from there, I think the cut going one direction would be called a climbing cut. For the spinning I was thinking you could put little caster wheels under it, rotated to align with the circumference of a circle. They would have to recess into the base as you built it. Your result is pretty awesome.
I did concrete canoe in college. Ours were between 3/4" to 1" thick. We would do multiple layers with the mesh in between. We would add admixture to lighten the canoe. We would make a 20' canoe under 100 lbs.
When you are cutting the reinforcement, make sure you don’t cut it too short of the corner or the corners will wear and chip over time. Special attention is needed in corners because they are always the weakest part. I would also put a layer of the sheet reinforcement on the sides and stuff the corners with extra glass to prevent that issue.
Free product idea, as a thank you for the awesome content: since you are casting the body of the chair... add some cooling channels! With some 1/4" stainless steel tubing bent to match the contour, formed into the concrete, you could use a small underwater pump to circulate cool pool water through the chair.
The crumbly corners are from sand bouncing out of your face coat and collecting in the corner, the getting sprayed over. Spray towards corners, then vacuum out last one prior to covering with face coat.
Before watching the video, I'll guess that the secret ingredient includes so much glass fiber reinforcement so this really could count as a "glass chair" as much as a "concrete chair".
From a design standpoint, your two supports under the hips should be wider and fully rounded - no squares. They should make the wood look like a skateboard pool. They won’t provide any more support, but they will look so much better with the design.
This is my first time on this channel & I’m already loving the content. The end product is very artistic & ergonomic in design. You my sir have earned yourself a subscriber. Cheers mate! ❤
Venom Steel are the ONLY gloves I buy. I never point out a sponsor but they are so legit. Also, one time I got a bad batch that were torn and they were so cool about it. Sent me replacements. Went above and beyond. Great company to support.
You are able to bend regular plywood with a wood steamer. A large surface area like that might be more difficult but you steam the angles as you bend them and works pretty well. I have used for building skateboard/ bike ramps on the cheap
I discovered the Adirondack chairs while visiting friends in Canada recently, and was amazed at how comfortable they are. Way more then you'd expect from a hard wooden chair. There are plenty of plans available online, so I will be making a couple for my garden later this year.
Interesting build. Great shop and tools. Regarding your cementatious shape, your 'strength in materials ' may benefit from either retarding the hydration of the Portland by covering the matrix with burlap and keeping it moist for an extended time (28 days for ultimate strength). Concrete block manufacturing uses slowly elevated temperature and high humidity to steam cure their products to ultimate strength over a period of just 24 hours. Regarding your 'glue-ups' and seal coats, a low moisture content in the substrate and epoxy saturation with a U V cover coating would add years of service to the product.
Great work! One thing to consider for outdoor furniture is rain water drain at the lowest spot. Couple drainage holes at the bottom through the wood base will solve that. All the best!
For a seat you have definitely chosen an interesting and challenging material to work with. The first material I would think of for such a product is polyester
Hi, I am an industrial designer. I will give you some critique. First of all the concrete part is nice, it is well proportioned, the finish is nice and the clever use of materials allows for a sleek and elegant shape. However adding an oversized base that spins and has LED lights is far too much, it looks clunky and heavy and there is no unity between the chair and its base. If you were to iterate on the design of the base I would suggest making it thinner and not elliptical. The chair has nice flowing curves whereas the base consisting purely of an extruded ellipse feels too geometric and static to harmonize well with the chair. In order to make it more dynamic to suit the chair better it could have a taper in the vertical axis or a more flowing shape from the top view. Another thing to explore is the transition between the base and the chair. What you have in the current design is an abrupt transition within a single plane, i would be more inclined to make the transition more convergant. I realize that I may seem very critical, but it is meant constructively. And the only reason I am taking the time to write such a long comment is that I believe this could become a very interesting product if you iterate further.
There is a technique using wires under tension which will keep a shape and spread the load evenly inside such creations, similar how rebar structures are made, but the wire structure is held by its self as standalone and it's covered with mortar. I have used this technique by experience but have no idea for extra context. For the fiberglass mesh since i'm using it with slabs of 6-8mm for miniature houses (usually 1:28 scale) i can tell you the only thing is useful for is to not let the slab break apart from like a center impact, but everything does crack and it doesn't add any strength like rebar, you can just patch it afterwards for no load bearing structures. For fiber reinforced mortar even with resins added the problem is it's strong as nothing else, but eventually it forms cracks on stress points as a result of fibers being pulled apart from the mix.
There are plenty of people, myself included, who would have trouble getting in and out of this chair because of the low height. You may want to consider making an alternate design that has a higher base for people like my myself?
This is so damn cool. As a guy who previously worked with concrete I never in my wildest dreams thought you could do this with it. Good job and the chair looks so cool 💪👍
Back in the 30s and up to WWII, my dad was in the linoleum laying business with his father. They used contact cement all the time with waxed paper to separate the cemented surfaces. They laid the waxed paper on top of the bottom surface and laid the linoleum on top of the waxed paper. Then they pulled the waxed paper out, slowly, and rolled down the two glued surfaces as they pulled the paper out.
I think it could stand to have some nice swoopy armrests. Use them instead of the blocks to stabilize the seat on its pad. Maybe include cup holders in the armrests, or build a couple neat little wells into the pad. Cool chair, I like it!
A recessed battery back with a USB c charger exposed for the LEDs would be a nice touch, especially if you're talking about using it by the pool etc. Could also incorporate a wireless charger in the base! You've got the realestate inside that base to make it happen!
You can also kerf either plywood or MDF to create wiggle wood for your jig. I do this when I’m creating jigs for custom headliners and sunroof sliders in vehicles, to match the OEM curves and dimensions. I then layup the final fiberglass parts over these jigs, finish and upholster.
@@TheNewJankyWorkshopYou know that fiber-reinforced cement boards (and planters, tiles, etc) have been widely used for over a century? They’re usually under 1/2” thick. (Search terms: “fibre cement”, “eternit”) (Luckily we no longer use asbestos as the fibers!)
@@tookitogo I cannot say that I did know the entire history of fiber reinforced cement boards. But I have seen fiber re-enforcement used in other project by @modustrial and other makers. But that is the beauty of TH-cam, is to stumble across new techniques, materials, and their usage and to add that to the knowledge reservoir. And I have definitely never seen a build like this.
I must say you have a dream shop there. In “architectural” construction there is a product called “glass fiber reinforced concrete” or GFRC that has been used on buildings for about 30 years now. It’s thickness varies from 1/4”-1/2”. Its use is perfect for repeated decorative panels interior or exterior where weight is an issue- see the examples such as The Broad museum in LA, the ceiling of the Sagrada Familia Cathedral (the new portion) in Barcelona Spain, to name a few. I too love the Corbusier chair and has made a tiny model of it. Good job and I truly enjoy your video. Another thought, your solid wood base looks awesome but I must ask why you didn’t also use wood dowels to connect each wood block together for strength and longer lasting.
Thanks! And Yup, GFRC is what I'm using... The basic GFRC mix is sand, cement, plasticizer, polymer and alkali resistant glass fibers... Lots of variants of it (like the one from Fishstone Im using) include other admixes for different purposes
Man! I believe you on word that this is going to hold. But seeing you trying it just after taking from form!? I was closing my eyes waiting for it to crack in half
This is so cool!!! I can easily see these painted different colors used around fancy hotel pools. The concrete parts look like they would stack neatly together for storage. I also really thought you were going to drill out a cup holder in that base too. 😄
if you have any small tool with a motor us it against the forms to make it smoother on the form side and a little water on your mag will help seal up holes. adding powdered color to the mix can make it look really cool but it also can weaken your concrete strength
Your such a funny guy! Your learning without someone teaching you. You are doing a great job! Fun to watch you learn! Respect to you for learning. Nothing but love from Utah.
I just laid down some contact cement on a couple surfaces, then clicked on your video while I’m waiting for it to set. What a trip. Although I’m gluing together shoes.
Replace the plug-in power for the LED with a small rechargeable 12v battery (eg. Motorcycle) and spin away! I would also suggest rounding off the corners on the concrete to prevent shin stabs. The lounger looks great! Awesome build.
The small pits and scaling is chirt pop from not having a high enough moisture content you want a smooth cream to rise when you're rubbing it out without pudding
Cool video. As a guitar making hobbyist, the first thing comes to mind is steam bending. The process is as simple as heating up the wood while it is wet...!
You should add a small metal bar or maybe 2 washers under the concrete where the head is located and sell some outdoor pillows with magnets in them
good idea!
My thought was just a couple of loops in the back that you can tie those lounger pillows to so they’re always attached.
I had a similar thought. Also a cup holder in the base, would be a great quality-of-life update!
That's smart 👍🏾!!!
@@IrinaGreenmanwith drainage of course
Bro, your 20 second caulk talk answered every single question I had about caulking concrete forms. Excellent job.
Ha, thanks!
Hahahaha caulk talk
He is the caulk master?
I was wondering when he started if it was going to be all caulk and no action.
Caulk in the park.
Venom steel doesn’t even need to pay to sponsor videos, they are easily the best gloves I’ve ever used, and I’m sure everyone else already feels the same way. But I’m glad they are throwing some money at you regardless.
they are amazing! love 'em
Do they do a cotton-lined glove? My problem with nitrile gloves has always been that without some sort of lining my hands get swampy almost immediately.
@@BrooksMoses that’s an interesting upgrade, never seen disposables that do that. The inner lining of these gloves have a coating that seems to be somewhat absorbent (not chalky, but almost the same feel). It takes much longer for my hands to sweat in them, but it’s inevitable. So, I always have a spare pair with me, and when I need to take a break (bathroom, phone, etc) I take off the first pair (let those dry out in the meantime) and slip on the other pair. In fact, these gloves are so quality that I’m able to use those 2 pairs of gloves for days or weeks (depending on what I’m doing).
I mean it's probably for persons like myself who've never heard of Venom Steel before, and only really use the generic work gloves you find at Lowes
@@thezackast2752 I buy my venom gloves at Lowe’s. Treat yourself and see what you think. Oh and I just recently watched Project Farm (an awesome review channel on TH-cam) do one in gloves (it’s not a new video, but I only now just saw it), and he picks venom steel as his top choice.
It's probably an angle of view problem, but I find the headrest part a little bit short. From my perspective, 2 inches more wouldn't be a bad thing, just to provide a better support for the cushion and ultimately, to the head. But it's a great tribute to Le Corbusier design, well done sir.
I thought the same but some design changes might be needed since it the additional weight would impact the balance. I would be real if the plans he made could scale based on a person's measurements. Although. from a business point of view it would suck having to make custom forms for each sale.
yeah, i would buy this, but im 6’5 so i dont think the headrest would even work lol
I learned that you need to be careful when you spray in your first layer, the corners fill up with dry over spray. Since they aren't thoroughly wet, they are brittle when you pull the mold.
I think that is exactly what happened. I used an air gun to blow out the corners, but I guess not enough
@@modustrial I used to work at a factory where we manufactured exactly this type of thin (15-20mm usually) and super strong concrete panels. First layer was always done by 2 people, one guy used air gun to blow away the dry stuff and second guy followed with nozzle that sprayed concrete mixed with fiberglass (we had fancier machinery that cut the fiberglass to desired size and kinda mixed it with concrete while shooting out), blowing out corners with air was particularly important and had to be done almost at the same time with second guy who sprayed concrete. If you suspect that there's some dry stuff left in corners you can blow it out even after corners are sprayed with concrete and just respray again and it will come out fine.
Very nice video overally.
Ok I will put in my two cents.
For the blocks underneath, if you make them larger to fill the space, you will give a different look which I think would look nice but also be adding strength to the seat .
Hook for a pillow would be nice but a pillow with elastic band would work just as well while making adjustable up and down easy. (Con. Elastic bands tend to stretch or break after time, just as any straps used on hooks)
Looks great for a prototype.
I’m by no way a designer nor do I have your skill, but a couple of tweaks I’d be tempted to make would be…
1. Cut a drainage channel in the curved recess of the base, preferably the full width and all the way through, this would allow your wood treatment to be used in the channel which didn’t seem to be the case with the drilled holes, and could also be less prone to blockage.
2. Maybe round the corners a bit, it could potentially prevent them breaking when releasing from the form, but would also have the advantage of taking some of the sting out of the accidental catching of a passing ankle or thigh (or child’s head).
As a first time viewer, I’ll be back for more.
Good ideas!
Rounding all the 4 corners of the concrete is a great idea. Well done sir.
Couple of questions;
What’s the weight of the concrete?
And can you use it without the wooden base?
If you can eliminate the wood base? Would it become a rocking lounge chair?
Great workmanship.
I recently watched someone use a sheet a plastic instead of spacers when laminating. It allowed him to precisely place the laminate right where he wanted it and then had someone slowly pull the plastic sheet out while he rolled it.
The LC4 chair was actually designed by Charlotte Perriand, as part of Le Corbusier team. She made some version out of Bamboo as well.
common misconception
The chair turned out beautifully. If it isn't too impolite, I might suggest a cordless option where you inset a little hidden drawer into the wooden base where a USB cable can plug into a small 10,000mAh power bank that will keep those lights charged. You just pull open the hidden drawer on the side to remove/swap out/recharge the power bank for the lights. Then you can put the chair anywhere, indoor or outside on a covered patio and not have a trip hazard with the cord running out from the bottom.
i feel like maybe, just perhaps maybe, you should wear a mask while spraying fiberglass concrete
Fiberglass breaks down in lungs
@@Heyimhere732does cement?
@Heyimhere732 that is simply incorrect lol
Only the face coat was sprayed and it didn’t have glass fibers - he didn’t want the fibers visible
That came out really cool, cool idea!
One piece of advice I would have whenever a big corner is cut out like that is drill a small hole and use a small metal "staple" (rebar) or something so the new concrete has something to adhere to. The small patch on the corner is going to be really weak and likely break off without it.
Dr. Edmund Toth at the University of Illinois pioneered the design and construction of thin plate concrete design. It takes knowledge, skill and strict attention to detail to get the correct results. The lounge is impressive.
Cyprus is a personal preference for outdoor projects. It's fine in the weather with little maintanance and has GORGEOUS grain
Unfortunately, we don't get a lot of Cypress here in the midwest... it does look amazing tho!
I used to be able to get cypress here in Florida, but it's being more and more difficult to find.
What is Cyprus/Cypress?
@@lamortexotique cypress tree, it's a tree that grows really tall and kinda thin.
Cyprus is an island country in the Mediterranean, near Italy and Greece. Cypress is a naturally rot and insect resistant wood. It’s got one issue, and that is it splits if you look at it sideways. Pre-drill every single screw hole, folks. (Don’t ask me if cypress grows on Cyprus. Look it up for yourself.)
To protect the corners I think a 1" or even 1/2" radius would still look sleek while protecting them for chipping off
After some time, use and memories broken corners won’t look bad either.
Great video: no bullshit, no annoying music, no repeating rambling and just explaining what has to be explained. Chapeau brother, a new subscriber. I really love the new look on concrete using the fiberglass, perfect, so many dumb mistakes with the regular concrete: steel too much on the edge and taking away the boards too soon. I was really pleased to see the drying of the concrete under a sheet of plastic. Keeping the moisture in to let the concrete finish. Thanks for sharing from Mexico.
Thank you!
I know that the chair would absolutely be comfortable because some of my best nights of sleep have been in hospital beds where I contort to that position to sleep
It is surprisingly ergonomic :)
Wild comparison. Concrete and a mattress have _slightly_ different materials and padding characteristics.
I've literally never heard of someone saying they sleptwell in a hospital, let alone the "best night of sleep."
@@pamelah6431
probably on morphine
@@pamelah6431 You have obviously not had morphine...
I used to work at a cement factory. For a challenge we built two concrete canoes, similar mix as you used but probably only 10mm thick. They were used in a 12 hour canoeing marathon and were totally successful.
Lots of people think water helps wood move and bend, it's really the heat. With heat you don't really need moisture, but it does help a lot. This comes from a former guitar builder.
Interesting, thanks!
@@modustrial Keep up the good work.
I have always loved the Le Corbusier chaise, and have one. The neat feature of the chaise is the ability to easily adjust the recline. Adding some friction rollers to the base to allow for positioning the recline would be fantastic. (Love the magnet idea for pillow as well)
Since you are doing the cement layout upside down maybe add 2 buttons or something in the top backside so you can hang a pillow like in the original concept for the idea.
That's a great idea!
A change that could really make this design so much more impressive is creating tapered sides, like the last 3 inches go from 3/4 inch thick to 1/4 inch thick. It wouldn't really affect the overall strength of the chair but would fool the eye making it look like the whole chair only being 1/4 inch thick.
The overall look is great!! Here’s an idea for your LED light assembly. Two rings of copper tape on the bottom side. The LED leads solder to the the rings. The power wires can be soldered ti pieces of copper or aluminum that is bent into an arc and mounted to a thin block of wood.
You will then be able to spin 360° and not worry about the wires ripping off
Been using those gloves for almost 2 years. They are the best!
Yes, they are seriously game changing!
I love how you save big money at Menards. One of the things I miss most about not living in the Midwest.
All of the additives in the concrete mix make it cure more slowly, but if it's .750" thick then that's not an issue, so this is the perfect use case. Smart!
You could use silicone inside the corners of the mold to avoid the sharp edges that tend to crack. And to be fair the furniture was designed by Charlotte Perriand who worked with Le Corbusier as an interior designer.
I watch a lot of conceptual furniture design and building on TH-cam. This is just a masterpiece!!!! You earned my subscribe!
Thank you!! 🙏🙏
Charger plug in the base would be nice add on. Especially since you have to plug it in for the light already.
Simple, elegant design.
Stunning outcome and fantastic process!
Great job! Can't wait to see the next!
Mike is highly intelligent AND talented, that makes for successful projects, and I bet we'll see more of his work making it into design magazines and blogs. Great concept and a beautiful piece!
Thank you for the kind words Jen!
Thanks for sharing this video. It was my first time visiting your channel, and it paid off. I give you a thumbs-up.
I have used the same technique to build fireplaces here in Finland. The first project was completed ten years ago, and the fireplace is used daily to heat the house. The concrete and other parts of the fireplace still look new, so with the technology you presented, it is possible to make solid parts.
My fireplace parts are 10 mm (0.40 inch) thick.
An interior design magazine wrote an article about my fireplace and called it "the mother of all fireplaces".
That looks great, some adjustable arm rests would be a nice addition, made from the same type of wood. They could be made adjustable from behind the lounge back!
Cool idea
@@modustrial could be integrated with my full width support block! And flip up like an airplane armrest.
2 cm thin concrete that withstands stretching forces on the top side with the actual mesh on the wrong side is impressive!
Lol, nice Blacktail studios sticker
someone noticed the irony its on a CNC :)
@@modustrialLol
Sincere congratulations! :) The result is supercool and the thickness so small it's almost unbelievable it's so rigid. :)
Brilliant work, dude! Really well done!!! 😃
It ended up looking far better than I imagined!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks brother!
I just watch you for fun and never really done any DIY or home renovation, but just enjoy watching you as a person :) thanks for all the hard work! I hope you're focusing on your health also.
thank you for the kind words!
consider using a piece of pvc pipe to screed the last layer of concrete. Could probably just use it like a roller
that is a great idea!
I never knew that concrete could be sprayed, i knew that concrete can be really thin, but didnt realize it could be sprayed through a machine. Thats cool as hell!
You're the best man!! Love your videos. Greetings from Ecuador!! 👊🏻
thank you!
add 38mm 1 1/2 inch radius to the corners and add 2 degree draft to the all mould sides. Then add 3 holes of 1/2 inch 12.7 mm dia where the head pillow will go for a toggle and strap. Maybe also consider the ankle area, you also need a hole in the "butt" area to stop water pooling. NOTE: these holes can also be used for "blow release" to demould without the use of mechanical aids and possible damage.
"I want to make a lounger. It needs to be flexible, thin, and comfortable. What material should we use?"
Modustrial Maker: "Concrete!"
exactly.
I'm always shocked at how beautiful people can make a chunk of concrete look! Very impressive!
I will say those gloves are amazing barely rip ever. I buy them from Menards all the time!
Agreed 💯
Check gypsum concrete (gypsum is the mould), it is extremely strong, and also cheap and fairly simple to create molds. In Hungary stairs are made of it, it is just 2,5 cm thick. It is reinforced by thin metal bars and poured liquid (cement to aggregate ratio 1:1).
American Society of Civil Engineers has a concrete canoe contest. The teams get really scientific with the concrete mixes that they use, as if normal concrete wasn't already very scientific, and I believe the concrete canoes are thinner than 3/4". I don't know what the final strength of your mix is but you could have fairly high tensile strength. If you had for instance 5000 compressive strength concrete the tensile strength would be about 500 psi. It's not linear though, doubling the compressive strength only increases the tensile strength by 40%. 500 psi is only 1/6 or less the strength of wood if you had curved wood pieces similarly. The mesh you put in it won't do anything to add strength until the concrete itself has already cracked, it would be the same even if you had put steel in it. I don't think the chair will have unlimited strength, I would suggest not trying to sit on the top of it. You should build another one and do some load tests with it.
The router tearout is a problem when going the direction against the grain. You would have to start at the high point of that particular board and cut both directions from there, I think the cut going one direction would be called a climbing cut.
For the spinning I was thinking you could put little caster wheels under it, rotated to align with the circumference of a circle. They would have to recess into the base as you built it.
Your result is pretty awesome.
I did concrete canoe in college. Ours were between 3/4" to 1" thick. We would do multiple layers with the mesh in between. We would add admixture to lighten the canoe. We would make a 20' canoe under 100 lbs.
When you are cutting the reinforcement, make sure you don’t cut it too short of the corner or the corners will wear and chip over time. Special attention is needed in corners because they are always the weakest part. I would also put a layer of the sheet reinforcement on the sides and stuff the corners with extra glass to prevent that issue.
Free product idea, as a thank you for the awesome content: since you are casting the body of the chair... add some cooling channels! With some 1/4" stainless steel tubing bent to match the contour, formed into the concrete, you could use a small underwater pump to circulate cool pool water through the chair.
that is a cool idea! (literally and figuratively 😂)
Fantastic idea, and.... Let's say you want to relax in the winter time.... Warm water could be used..... Just a thought.
The crumbly corners are from sand bouncing out of your face coat and collecting in the corner, the getting sprayed over. Spray towards corners, then vacuum out last one prior to covering with face coat.
This thing is cool as hell, but I can't help but think it will get super hot during the summer as an outdoor piece.
You definitely want some shade or a mister for using it on hot days
@@modustrialMaybe design it with some liquid cooling pipe channels if you want an extra hard challenge. 😉
Before watching the video, I'll guess that the secret ingredient includes so much glass fiber reinforcement so this really could count as a "glass chair" as much as a "concrete chair".
From a design standpoint, your two supports under the hips should be wider and fully rounded - no squares. They should make the wood look like a skateboard pool. They won’t provide any more support, but they will look so much better with the design.
Yes, echo the oval of the base
This is my first time on this channel & I’m already loving the content. The end product is very artistic & ergonomic in design. You my sir have earned yourself a subscriber. Cheers mate! ❤
Thanks! Glad ya found me
Venom Steel are the ONLY gloves I buy. I never point out a sponsor but they are so legit.
Also, one time I got a bad batch that were torn and they were so cool about it. Sent me replacements. Went above and beyond. Great company to support.
You are able to bend regular plywood with a wood steamer. A large surface area like that might be more difficult but you steam the angles as you bend them and works pretty well.
I have used for building skateboard/ bike ramps on the cheap
3:53 for it really bend without breaking you need to immerse the plywood in water and soak for like 12/ 24 hours
i get that ita ultra thin, but since the other layer is going on it anyway you could also try cutting bend lines
I discovered the Adirondack chairs while visiting friends in Canada recently, and was amazed at how comfortable they are. Way more then you'd expect from a hard wooden chair. There are plenty of plans available online, so I will be making a couple for my garden later this year.
That's awesome!
Interesting build. Great shop and tools.
Regarding your cementatious shape, your 'strength in materials ' may benefit from either retarding the hydration of the Portland by covering the matrix with burlap and keeping it moist for an extended time (28 days for ultimate strength). Concrete block manufacturing uses slowly elevated temperature and high humidity to steam cure their products to ultimate strength over a period of just 24 hours.
Regarding your 'glue-ups' and seal coats, a low moisture content in the substrate and epoxy saturation with a U V cover coating would add years of service to the product.
Good tips!
Great work! One thing to consider for outdoor furniture is rain water drain at the lowest spot. Couple drainage holes at the bottom through the wood base will solve that. All the best!
Thanks! And Yes they would! That's why I drilled them ... Showed it right before applying finish ;)
He did that at 20:53
For a seat you have definitely chosen an interesting and challenging material to work with. The first material I would think of for such a product is polyester
Hi, I am an industrial designer. I will give you some critique. First of all the concrete part is nice, it is well proportioned, the finish is nice and the clever use of materials allows for a sleek and elegant shape. However adding an oversized base that spins and has LED lights is far too much, it looks clunky and heavy and there is no unity between the chair and its base.
If you were to iterate on the design of the base I would suggest making it thinner and not elliptical. The chair has nice flowing curves whereas the base consisting purely of an extruded ellipse feels too geometric and static to harmonize well with the chair. In order to make it more dynamic to suit the chair better it could have a taper in the vertical axis or a more flowing shape from the top view.
Another thing to explore is the transition between the base and the chair. What you have in the current design is an abrupt transition within a single plane, i would be more inclined to make the transition more convergant.
I realize that I may seem very critical, but it is meant constructively. And the only reason I am taking the time to write such a long comment is that I believe this could become a very interesting product if you iterate further.
There is a technique using wires under tension which will keep a shape and spread the load evenly inside such creations, similar how rebar structures are made, but the wire structure is held by its self as standalone and it's covered with mortar. I have used this technique by experience but have no idea for extra context.
For the fiberglass mesh since i'm using it with slabs of 6-8mm for miniature houses (usually 1:28 scale) i can tell you the only thing is useful for is to not let the slab break apart from like a center impact, but everything does crack and it doesn't add any strength like rebar, you can just patch it afterwards for no load bearing structures.
For fiber reinforced mortar even with resins added the problem is it's strong as nothing else, but eventually it forms cracks on stress points as a result of fibers being pulled apart from the mix.
There are plenty of people, myself included, who would have trouble getting in and out of this chair because of the low height. You may want to consider making an alternate design that has a higher base for people like my myself?
This is so damn cool. As a guy who previously worked with concrete I never in my wildest dreams thought you could do this with it. Good job and the chair looks so cool 💪👍
😮 NO PPE when spraying❓️ Specially fiberglass. 👎🏾
BTW, everyone's lengths are different. [One size DOES NOT always fit]. 💡
Back in the 30s and up to WWII, my dad was in the linoleum laying business with his father. They used contact cement all the time with waxed paper to separate the cemented surfaces. They laid the waxed paper on top of the bottom surface and laid the linoleum on top of the waxed paper. Then they pulled the waxed paper out, slowly, and rolled down the two glued surfaces as they pulled the paper out.
man, there's a lot of 'we' and not really much 'me'. Seemed like you made it pretty much yourself, ya know
okay karen
Love the 10 Hun background mural. Been a Fan of his for a few years and happy to see the connections in Art TH-camrs
Peter (aka Ten Hun) is a great guy and a great artist!
I paid for premium not to see commercials. This was nothing but a big old informercial like product placement drone.
I think it could stand to have some nice swoopy armrests. Use them instead of the blocks to stabilize the seat on its pad. Maybe include cup holders in the armrests, or build a couple neat little wells into the pad. Cool chair, I like it!
A recessed battery back with a USB c charger exposed for the LEDs would be a nice touch, especially if you're talking about using it by the pool etc. Could also incorporate a wireless charger in the base! You've got the realestate inside that base to make it happen!
Ive been building something very similar for 4 years. It was great to see your method!
You can also kerf either plywood or MDF to create wiggle wood for your jig. I do this when I’m creating jigs for custom headliners and sunroof sliders in vehicles, to match the OEM curves and dimensions. I then layup the final fiberglass parts over these jigs, finish and upholster.
Wow, that is amazing how at only 3/4" thick, it actually holds its shape, and can take a person's weight. Excellent build man!
Thanks much! And I recognize that name from the end of every making it... Nice to see you here!
@modustrial thanks brother! Longtime lurker :)
@@TheNewJankyWorkshopYou know that fiber-reinforced cement boards (and planters, tiles, etc) have been widely used for over a century? They’re usually under 1/2” thick. (Search terms: “fibre cement”, “eternit”)
(Luckily we no longer use asbestos as the fibers!)
@@tookitogo I cannot say that I did know the entire history of fiber reinforced cement boards. But I have seen fiber re-enforcement used in other project by @modustrial and other makers. But that is the beauty of TH-cam, is to stumble across new techniques, materials, and their usage and to add that to the knowledge reservoir. And I have definitely never seen a build like this.
@@TheNewJankyWorkshop For sure!! 100% agree with your sentiment.
I must say you have a dream shop there. In “architectural” construction there is a product called “glass fiber reinforced concrete” or GFRC that has been used on buildings for about 30 years now. It’s thickness varies from 1/4”-1/2”. Its use is perfect for repeated decorative panels interior or exterior where weight is an issue- see the examples such as The Broad museum in LA, the ceiling of the Sagrada Familia Cathedral (the new portion) in Barcelona Spain, to name a few.
I too love the Corbusier chair and has made a tiny model of it. Good job and I truly enjoy your video.
Another thought, your solid wood base looks awesome but I must ask why you didn’t also use wood dowels to connect each wood block together for strength and longer lasting.
Thanks! And Yup, GFRC is what I'm using... The basic GFRC mix is sand, cement, plasticizer, polymer and alkali resistant glass fibers... Lots of variants of it (like the one from Fishstone Im using) include other admixes for different purposes
Btw you can achieve the same results for the curved in lay, by using a compass plane it does both concave and convex shapes.
What a cool design! Nice job!
So proud of you and i love how enthusiastic you are while working on a project!
Thanks!!
Now imagine some of these seamlessly popping out of the floor, side by side along a pool or on a viewpoint... That'd be sweet!
Man! I believe you on word that this is going to hold. But seeing you trying it just after taking from form!? I was closing my eyes waiting for it to crack in half
Glad to see you knew to make a dry, harsh mix for strength.
this will be cool to see how it holds up to the weather over a couple years
This is so cool!!! I can easily see these painted different colors used around fancy hotel pools. The concrete parts look like they would stack neatly together for storage. I also really thought you were going to drill out a cup holder in that base too. 😄
if you have any small tool with a motor us it against the forms to make it smoother on the form side and a little water on your mag will help seal up holes. adding powdered color to the mix can make it look really cool but it also can weaken your concrete strength
You can bend ply wood with boiling hot water, you need to drench it too, not just a light spray.
What a wonderful piece of furniture. Loved seeing this one come together.
I love it, thanks for the great video bro, much respect
Awesome. Surprised the lazy Susan was wide enough. 3/4 concrete art lounge chair makes me smile.
Your such a funny guy! Your learning without someone teaching you.
You are doing a great job!
Fun to watch you learn!
Respect to you for learning.
Nothing but love from Utah.
I just laid down some contact cement on a couple surfaces, then clicked on your video while I’m waiting for it to set. What a trip. Although I’m gluing together shoes.
Replace the plug-in power for the LED with a small rechargeable 12v battery (eg. Motorcycle) and spin away! I would also suggest rounding off the corners on the concrete to prevent shin stabs. The lounger looks great! Awesome build.
That chair is gorgeous, and a bespoke umbrella would look amazing. Then again, the whole rooftop is!✊🏾
Thank you!
i love the chair id definitely would buy one.
This is so cool! You really are a genius when it comes to concrete
The small pits and scaling is chirt pop from not having a high enough moisture content you want a smooth cream to rise when you're rubbing it out without pudding
6:49 My first time seeing Caulk Talk, thanks for the info!
One of the coolest projects I’ve seen
Cool video. As a guitar making hobbyist, the first thing comes to mind is steam bending. The process is as simple as heating up the wood while it is wet...!
You could cast some bolts or hardware in the concrete so you could fix the concrete to the base that way, without the blocks.