Super Tune Your Creality CR10S Pro V2 / Ender 3 V2 Z-Offset To Get Prints with Next to No Stringing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2022
- How to fine-tune your 3D printer and Cura to get the cleanest prints using any hotend, stop stringing, and resolve under extrusion issues.
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Ender 3 V2 Jyers Custom Firmware - drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
• Ender 3 V2 Assembly, U...
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best video i've seen for z-adjustments, i'm looking forward to trying some of your test files and dialing things in tonight. NICE!
Hi friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your tweaks :)
This video just reaffirms my belief that bed leveling is probably the single most important part of getting a great print. Another great video.
Hello MLGInfidel1, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. All of my early struggles with bed adhesion, stringing, prints with tiny blobs in random places, and dirty nozzles all lead back to having the right build plate material, setting the correct e-steps, bed level & z-offset. Everything else can be sorted out with test prints and slicer tweaks.
This hobby can be super frustrating if these fundamentals aren't understood.
Best of luck with your mods!
I have been struggling to get a decent PETG print since I got my Ender 3V2, after following this advice, I have finally had my first clean PETG print. Thanks Victor for the easy to understand advice.
Hello Shawn, Thank you for commenting and kind words. PETG is an amazing material that produces functional parts that can handle the summertime heat of a car's interior.
Great job taking the time to learn how to print with it.
Best of luck with your mods!
Victor, thanks for another great video. As you know I have used many of the suggestions for upgrades and settings from your videos and my printer is now just set and forget. I send something to print and don't have to worry if it is going to finish.
I just printed a head of Indiana Jones with a base for my grandson, he is a big fan. I have very little post processing to do.
Thanks again, and keep making videos. They are really helpful!
Hi Steve, You're most welcome. Wonderful news on building a reliable machine that produces great prints. Feel free to reach out anytime you have a question but it sounds like at this point everything is sorted out. Keep having fun with this awesome hobby and enjoy your family.
Clean explanation, love the chillaxed breakdown and walkthrough in simple terms.
Hi Bradley, Thank you for your kind comment and valuable feedback. Enjoy the Holiday (:
I love my CR-10 Max (basically the same as the CR-10s Pro V2 but bigger) and these videos are a great resource. I've added the anti-backlash nuts and filament guide etc. I've flashed the Tiny Machines firmware (much better bed levelling). I just hit the button on a magnetic steel build plate from Wham Bam, a bit expensive but she deserves it...
Oh, yeah, the Max is a monster of a printer. Just wait until you swap out the 8 bit control board and load Klipper on it. Your prints will be on another level. I was looking for one a while back and recently came across the Comgrow T500, which is another monster of a printer but it's built like tank due to the custom aluminum frame, linear rails, direct drive extruder, and runs Klipper on a 7" touch display out of the box. It's probably the best large format printer value currently available. I regret not getting one when they launched it a year ago. They were practically giving them away at $549, going for $799 currently.
Thanks for the G code. Also works with CR10S Pro
Hello Chuchito, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your mods!
Awesome Victor, this really helps
Hi Glenncol, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your projects!
Thank you so much for the detailed description. I have a quick question, I ordered some anti-backlash springs for the threaded rods and I'm about to install them but isn't it important to have both rods at the same height? When I measure with my caliper it is about 2MM off. How do I adjust? I didn't see that in the video. Thx in advance! I love your videos.
Hello Reed, Thank you for commenting, kindness, and great question. Your CR10S Pro V2 should have come with a plexiglass rectangle. To level the z lead screws. Using it is easy. Make sure the printer is powered off and stand the plexiglass spacer under the left side of the gantry. Bring both sides of the gantry down by turning the collars at the same time until it touches the spacer. Move the spacer over to the right side to see if needs to go up or down but only turn the right side lead screw collar until it's even with the left side. I found it best to just create a spacer in cad using the original dimensions but print off two and placing one under each side. If you find that the gantry won't stay straight you might need to loosen the gantry bar from the wheel brackets to help with the adjustment.
Power on the printer, home it and remeasure each side to see if it's straight. Repeat the aforementioned if needed.
Best of luck with your mods!
Greetings Victor,
Another great tutorial thank you again. Great call on the tape and I love the bird's inputs.
A Z-Offset question. With the 0.15mm feeler gauge setting + the 0.12mm resulted in the nozzle at 0.27mm above the bed which gave your printer a final offset of -3.12. During the second square test after tuning the Cura settings did you need to change the -3.12 offset value at all?
A fan question. Were the blower fans off during this print?
I would like to tune my E3 V2 per this tutorial but I did not see the Single square test file or the Column String test file. Could it be my CRS or CFS disease again? Feeler gauges are on order.
Thank You again Victor my friend this was very well done.
Doug
Good morning Doug, I hope you and Benita are wonderful today. Thanks again for your encouraging words and for reminding me that I left off the links. Yeah, during the part of the video when I was measuring the part the bird flew to me and I made an awkward pause when she landed on my head, never a dull moment.
Here it is for you and I'll add them to the video description as well.
I had the fan going at 50%, which is how it's set normally to cut down on noise a bit, during the string test print.
The final Z-Offset ended up being -3.13 I brought it down .01 from what I ended the video with. So once I was dialed in using the .15 feeler gauge I just increased the distance from the feeler gauge by decreasing that negative number by .11. In my case, it was at -3.24 after dialing it in with the .15 feeler gauge and ended with -3.13 so I went up by .11.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=17AnxDh8eLXB9fEMQorYCGenrJgo3oC5m
Have a great day!
@@vbared Re-Hi Victor, Yes Benetta and I are doing well and the pieces are falling into place great. A great visual on the bird...too cool.
Thanks for the note on the Z-Offset tweak and the files. I'm stopping my final Right Squash Ball foot and do the fine tune and then run the file. The other 3 has a little bit of " Wisp " and I encouraged by your tuning efforts to see if I can have a Wisp Away print.
I did find a 0.15mm Feeler so I'm off to the races.
Top of the Day to you my Friend
Doug
@@doctrainsmodifications5201 Thank you for your wife's name spelling.
@@vbared A fair exchange for the tuning lesson. WOW here is an issue I found with the JyersUI display firmware.
I started a print and while the extruder was waiting for the 230 nozzle temperature to complete I paused the print, Bathroom call, when I returned I selected " Print " and the screen displayed a window that said to wait on it to finish. I was printing the 9 square calibration and I could not get to the " Tune " so I could adjust the Z-Offset value. I had no functional control from the display for anything. I had to power down the printer and restart to gain control of the printer. Be Careful of the Pause and or bathroom calls..... : (
Doug
@@doctrainsmodifications5201 I ran into something similar with my CR10S Pro V2 running the Tiny Machines firmware using the same pause feature. There is no way to resume without changing the filament. You could just trigger the filament sensor and it will pause the print.
I give up on my Cr-10s Pro v2. It's breaking every other day. Thank you for your videos, mine is not good.
Hello Prp1k1ng, Thank you for commenting. Call me I'm located in the US 478-227-3301 so you can give me details on the troubles you are having. I used to have issue with mine as well until I came across the right information to help me solve them.
Best of luck with your mods!
Thank you very much for the video, greetings from Bolivia, it is my first printer and every time I realize that I still have a lot to learn.
My question is the following, for the first layer to be perfect once you configure it, you always have to use the same height in the first layer, right? For example, if I did the tests with a height of 0.2 mm, if I then put 0.3mm it would no longer work. Or I'm wrong ?
P.D Sorry for my english
Hola Juan Pablo, Gracias por comentar y amabilidad. Me alegra que hayas encontrado valor en este video para tu tiempo de visualización. Si ha ajustado la impresora con una altura de capa de.2 mm pero luego ha cambiado la altura de capa en la ficha Calidad de CURA a.3 mm para una impresión más rápida, no afectará a la primera capa siempre y cuando no cambie la altura de capa inicial de.2 mm en CURA. ¡Mucha suerte con tus mods!
Muchas gracias por la respuesta , entonces en el caso de que por algún motivo necesite cambiar la altura de la primera capa , tendría que volver a ajustar con el compensador del z axis no ? Digamos si pongo una capa más alta tendría q subir el compensador .
Vic do you do any pay phone calls to help with getting a printer sticking? I'm about ready to throw it away and buy a new one. Let me know if you do. Thanks and that is a great video.
Hi Nick, Yes, call me +1 478-227-3301 so I can help you.
Victor,
I absolutely love your videos especially on the ender 3v2, I currently have a stock hot end with a slice engineering heat brake, factory cooling. Also I have the same 50w heater as you. I'm getting alot of oozing prior to the print once it reaches temperature at 245, I'm using Inland Petg+. When I print with the .1mm it still attaches to the square. Last but not least your cura profile is working great, I followed this tutorial to a tee and my nozzle was to far from the bed and had to adjust way down. Hope you can help me out, I know it is a little much for my first comment.
Hello Jeremy, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. It's no problem at all, I'm glad to help you. Are you familiar with how to find the temp tower in Cura, set up the temp script and, print it? 245 sounds high to me, the temp tower will help you figure out what the best printing temperature is for the filament you're using. What brand PETG+ is it?
@@vbared Thanks you for the reply, it is Inland Petg+ from microcenter on what I have read it is manufactured by esun. I really wish I would have watched you videos before buying the all the unnecessary stuff that I have lol.
Hi Jeremy, Please excuse my late reply. TH-cam doesn't always alert me when replies come in. I made the video below to help you and the rest of the community find the right settings for your particular filament type.
th-cam.com/video/0SZjN1BOS1Y/w-d-xo.html
Hit me up with any questions you may have.
Best of luck with your mods!
Cura don't adjust the temp under printing. not turning om part coolin ethe.
seems to me cura stick with the start sclice temp and settings ?@@vbared
Thanks very much victor for another great video, I wanted to ask as I'm looking to buy another 3d printer and have been looking at the cr10s pro v2, I do have an ender 3 v2 with the micro swiss ng direct drive so I'm wanting to know can I put the ng direct drive on the cr10s pro v2 and put my stock bowden back on the ender 3 v2 or the one from the cr10s pro v2 on the ender 3 v2 with the additional upgrades at some point thanks mark👍
Hello Mark, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Yes, you can install the Micro Swiss NG on the CR10S Pro V2 but its original hotend is too long to fit on the Ender 3 V2. My decision to purchase the Cr10S Pro V2 was based on what was available at the time. What I would do today is purchase the Ender 3 Max. It has just about the same build volume as the CR10S Pro V2 at half the price and has way more firmware support from the community. The Ender 3 Max comes with a monochrome display but you can swap it out for an Ender 3 V2 color display.
www.creality3dofficial.com/products/ender-3-max-3d-printer
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared thanks again victor for the insight and information on what I was going to buy but the ender 3 max that you recommended is that the ender 3 max neo or just the ender 3 max as I'm not sure which one is which and really appreciate it if you could link me to the right one thanks...
Victor quick question what upgrade fans do you recommend for the ender 3 v2 thanks again mark 👍
@@markcox1437 Hi Mark, The Ender 3 Max Neo has many of included upgrades for a not much more money so if you are planning to add a CR-Touch, dual z lead screws, color display, tool box, belt tensioners... then go with the Neo linked below.
store.creality.com/products/ender-3-max-neo-3d-printer?gclid=CjwKCAiAyfybBhBKEiwAgtB7floO7GyrRmVGYC0iadcMyS5ToOEyWYe3Je1DlQz3qWFk0zJN3GrCZhoC50MQAvD_BwE
Hello, the help videos are very good, you could have the STL of the X-axis belt tensioner, thank you very much
Hello Alejandro, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. Please excuse my delay in responding to you, I couldn't remember the name of the tensioner on Thingiverse. I had to search my hard drive for all the .STL files to find it. Linked below is the version I use on my CR10S Pro V2
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3319649
Best of luck!
So if you bump up your quality to say .16 layer your initial z offset should decrease correct? Great video by the way thank you.
Good morning Randy, Thank you for your kind comment. Great question, what I do is set the z-offset using .2 layer height. If you need to print at a different layer height, just make the change in CURA but leave the first layer at .2 It works out perfectly for me but double check by re-printing the calibration part. Please let me know if the print results differ.
Enjoy your day!
PLEASE update this video. Cura heats to 160 before running bed tram/mesh then heats to desired temp before printing... much like your video.... BTW, 0.15 plus 0.12 = 0.27 which is 0.07 taller than the 0.2 feeler you say is too large.
Hi Patrick, Thank you for commenting and correcting me about the feeler gauge. CURA behaviors prior to the actual print starting and post are in the start g-code and end g-code are under setting, printer, manage printers and machine settings. Give me a call 478-227-3301 if you are still having issues so I can help you trouble shoot the problem.
Hey Victor, ever had an issue with adhesion on specific spots on your bed? I bought a glass bed for my Cr-10s v2 pro but there are a few places on the bed where the nozzle doesn’t seem to get close enough. This is after changing the z offset live and leveling endlessly
Hi Josh, Thank you for commenting. I switched from glass to G10 Garolite and haven't looked back. It's amazing as a build surface. I run mine at 80c. PETG, PLA, ASA, Nylon, and TPU sticks to it when hot and releases easily when cool. No more glue, tape, or scrapping. The link below is to a 1/16" thick sheet 24" X 24". You can also buy a 12" x 24" but it will be a little short on the 12" side.
Best of luck with your mods!
G10 Garolite - www.mcmaster.com/85345K631
@@vbared thank you!
@@vbared Hey again Victor, so you use the Garolite instead of the Wham Bam plate now? Any other mods worth mentioning now?
@@lnt3ch Hi Josh, The Wham Bam is still installed on my CR10S Pro V2 but the PEI sheet has developed bubbles between the film and stainless steel plate in the center other things I don't like is that the magnetic sheet is permanently glued to the heated bed, and it's more expensive. I'm using the G10 Garolite on my two Ender 3 V2s and have no issues at all. If I would have known about G10 Garolite early on I wouldn't have purchased the Wham Bam kit.
I'm using a Micro Swiss direct drive but it's a complicated install that requires rerouting cables, relocation of the filament sensor and bed probe, new hotend, fan mounts, and loading a different firmware.
An easy upgrade that can be done is to swap out the loud fans for some Noctuas. There are plenty of videos on TH-cam that will walk you through the process.
If this is your first 3D printer I would hold off on the direct drive upgrade until you learn more about working with your machine.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared thanks! I’ve got a Prusa MK3S+, a QIDI X Max, and the Pro V2 like you do. I’m considering some of your mods - but after the TM3D install the machine is much better. I’ll probably start with the Garolite build surface you recommended to begin with
Hi, can you share the bl touch mount stl and the cable managament stl plz. i bought your pack but isnt include
Hello Nicolas, Thank you for commenting, supporting my work and patience waiting on my reply. My family and I are in the process of moving. Our internet service was just turned on at our new place today. Below are the files you are asking about. In addition there is an bed wire guide I designed that clips into the back left corner where the bed wires come through. I've had trouble with the rubbing on the back left bed leveling wheel while printing and the new guide moves it up so it can't rub on that wheel.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1BPPwGesLUaP4LGi1zpdLhNoiqJEA1bKK
Best of luck with your mods!
Victor Bared could you share your cura profiles ?
Hello Colly05, Thank you for commenting, my profile is linked below.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=17DHqQuTLc52jPC1eWXdf7U6SrydTifzt
Best of luck with your mods!
After completing the test print do you change the brim distance back to zero? Is it only set at .1 for this test purpose?
Hello Peebs, Thank you for commenting. I leave mine with the .1 gap. Once your z-offset is dialed in the brim should be easy to remove. If it's hard to remove you need to move up and if the brim stays on the bed when your part is removed then you are to high and need to come down slightly. The part with its brim should come off the bed together but the brim should be real easy to remove from the part. It's a balancing act.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared thanks for the reply. My z offset is quite large due to using the .2 shim the printer comes with to initially level.
-2.9 fuses the brim to the square
-2.6 left the brim loose and not fused together
-2.75 seems to be a nice sweet spot but I’ll continue testing with the tips you provided.
Would you recommend .01 changes or continue the route I’m going with .05 or .1.
Also do you have a recommended test nut+bolt to confirm the printer is dialed in?
@@vbared one more question :). I’m just starting out so I apologize in advance for all the questions.
I purchased my cr10s pro v2 used (1 year old). The previous only bottomed out the nozzle and left a small indent/hole. I’ve noticed when printing this square it has minor imperfections near this hole. I’m wondering if It will have ramifications for larger prints and if I should try filling the hole or replace the bed? Your thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Thanks again for your videos!!
So, do you use the 120% first layer for every print?
Hi Colby, It depends on the nozzle wall thickness. If you are running a Micro Swiss or stock CR10S Pro V2 nozzle I've found that 120% initial layer works best. Using a nozzle that has a sharper point angle I would suggest 110% initial layer flow. Make sure to tweak the z-offset accordingly. Once you determine the initial flow rate % then it would apply to every print.
using tinymachines software can you change the PLA auto heat temp?
Hello Damo180B, Thank you for commenting. The preset temperatures are set before the firmware is compiled. If you are familiar with the process you can download the source code (linked below), make the changes, and compile the firmware.
github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/CrealityDwin_2.0
I can not find the calibration screen like you have. Is it I need to update the cr10s pro v2 ?
Hi Sean, Yes, my options are different because I'm using the Tiny Machine's 3D firmware. The firmware and installation video can be found here.
th-cam.com/video/hXZ3UPy67gc/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your mods!
Will these numbers work with a .6mm nozzle? I got this test square dialed in for my .4 nozzle but seem to be struggling once I swapped to .6
Hi Peebs, Happy Holiday, I haven't tried using a bigger nozzle but would think that you will need to start with like a .20 feeler gauge and add .20 extra height and work from there with the test square. The way I came up with these numbers was to divide .15 by 4 = 0.0375, then multiply it by 6 = .225. Next let's take the extra gap of .12 we added and divide it by 4 = .03 then multiply that number by 6 = .18 Since there aren't any .225 feeler gauges you can use .20 and add the .025 to the .18 to get .205. So I would try .20 feeler gauge and then raise the z another .20 and then start with the squares.
Let me know if this worked for you so I can answer this question in the future.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared The numbers I was specifically referring to was the increase in 3 flow rates to 120% and brim gap to .1
Would these three still be applicable with .6?
I leveled my bed using the .2 feeler gauge then did an auto level. It auto set the z offset to -2.33
During these test squares I forgot to increase the flow rates and create that .1 brim gap. Which I will try next. But without the flow rate increase the brim was all loose. And once I lowered the Z offset to -2.5 it was squished sufficiently but the nozzle appeared to low for the actual square.
@@peebs2424 Hi Peebs, Put your nozzle back to -2.33 and just increase those three flow rates until you get enough squish. the brim will tighten up so there shouldn't be any need for changing the brim gap.
When I copy the g code to PrusaSlicer it gives me a error message. It says;
Parsing error at line 12: Not a variable name M140 s(material_bed_temperature_layer_0)
Can you let me know how to fix that.
Thank you for all the help so far.
Hello Sean, Thank you for commenting. I'm not sure why that's happening but maybe if you import the original STEP file linked below into your preferred CAD program and export it as an STL file. Hopefully that might clear those errors in PrusaSlicer for you.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1GgFO-IdH2lqknHr7I0o-hB7_Ru4j8_bL
I don't get it. Z offset gives you first layer. Temp and retraction affect stringing, but what the f does z offset have to do with stringing?
Hello OnmatoPrinting, Thank you for commenting. Determining the correct printing temperature, retraction distance and retraction speed need to be set first. The machines z-offset influences not just the first layer but every layer. Setting the z-offset too low will cause the molten filament to collect along the outside walls of nozzle opening. This collection of molten filament will become stringing and little blobs on your print. In my experience I've found that the best way to properly set the z-offset is by running test prints using a 20x20x.4mm square with brim turned on and setting the brim gap to .2mm. Adust the z-offset up or down after each print until the brim barely holds onto the square. If the brim is fused to the part then you are too low if it isn't attached to the part at all then you are too high. Once you determine the best z-offset run a normal print and admire the results.
How do you get to that fine tuning z offset screen? I clicked everything and can’t find it
Hello Andrew, Thank you for commenting. From the main menu select Settings, then Tools, and lastly Adjust Steps/mm. The Z-offset is on the top right corner. It should be a negative number.
Best of luck with your mods!
I need some help my bed temp won't hold steady and the temperature I set it at I just updated the firmware and I don't know if it is the settings for the bed temp that's bad or something else can you please give me some ideas on what mite be going on or some settings I can look into.
@drew dunlap Hi Drew, Have you already PID tuned the extruder and heated bed? Please provide me with more details about your setup like what hotend assembly (stock or direct drive), firmware you had previously and anything else you can think of that would impact the hotend assembly's position.
@@vbared I haven't pid tuned anything I Honestly don't now what that is. I had just got it like out of the box and the first thang I did was update the firmware using your video.
Do you have a tutorial on how to pid tune your bed and hot end
still get elephants foot is hotend too hot ?? 210 for pla ??
Hello LilSquid, Thank you for commenting. It sounds like your heated bed temperature might be too high, that's usually the cause of elephant foot. What is your bed temperature during a print?
I have the same printer but i do not have the z-offset settings that yours has.
Hi Riff, thank you for commenting. Yeah, I hear you, the stock CR10S Pro V2 firmware lacks it due to the 8 bit control board and limited memory. The Tiny Machines 3D folks were able to squeeze in some more advanced settings by getting rid of the pre-loaded Chinese language. Linked below is a video I made a while back.
th-cam.com/video/F1Lk7N5CMo4/w-d-xo.html
@vbared I watched that video earlier. I think I'm going to to do the firmware upgrade on my printer.
@@Riffs_Garage Excellent!
Z-offset is for the first layer only. It has absolutely nothing to do with stringing. Retraction settings, temperature are the main culprits.
Hi Mark, Thank you for commenting. I thought the same thing early on when just printing parts that didn't have to fit together. In my business I print a lot of threaded parts and the z-offset affects every layer not just the first one. You can test this yourself by printing a nut and bolt that thread together. If you have too much squish the nut will close in, the bolt will spread out, and they won't go together. Raising the z-offset will allow for the assembly gap provide by the designer to reveal itself.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Z offset and proper bed allignment are firs step to have perfect retraction and overall prints. It's the most basic knowledge
@@michawesoek3255 Hello Michal, Thank you for commenting. Yes, I agree. In my case I had to sift through a bunch of good and bad information, keep what was valuable and throw out the rest. The importance of the Z-offset isn't focused enough on, in my opinion. I've come across many videos that try to resolve inaccurate prints by adjusting the x,y, and z offsets instead of fine tuning with the z-offset first. Tweaking the X and Y steps using a small calibration cube will get perfect small prints but large prints will be way off.
Best of luck with your mods!
I used your custom g code for startup and after finishing the level sequence it moves the the center or the bed to heat up to Printing temp. Then moves back to the right corner to start purge line.
It doesn’t stay in the back right corner to heat up
Any idea why?
Hi Peebs, Is your auto bed level on? The start g-code should start to warm up the nozzle to print temperature at the last location of the auto probe sequence. So if the auto bed probe is switched off then it won't be at the right rear when it starts to bring the nozzle up to print temp. Let me know if the problem persists and I'll add a g-code line to move that moves the print nozzle to that right rear corner before heating up the nozzle to print temperature.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared yes auto leveling is on. After the 25 point sequence it moves to the center and heats up to print temp. Then moves back to rear right to perform prime line.
@@peebs2424 Hi Peebs, Please email me, vbared@gmail.com , your start G-Code so I can try to figure out what is going on.
Enjoy your day (:
@@vbared hello, have you received my email?
Hi Patrick, Thank you for following up. I'm wrapping up moving into my new location and it seems never-ending. My apologies for the slow response. Yes, I did receive your email and don't see what's making the print head move to the center of bed after it runs the bed level routine. My CR10S pro V2 starts the bed level probing at the left front and ends at the right rear where the nozzle temp should ramp up. I added "G1 X315 Y301 ; Park right side during nozzle warmup" after the G29 Auto Bed Level so it should park in the right rear after it finishes the the bed level probe routine. Just copy below and paste it in place of your current start g-code. Just our of curiosity what firmware and slicer are you running?
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
; CR10S PRO V2 Custom Start G-code
M117 Pre-heating the extruder!
M104 S160; start warming extruder to 160
M117 Getting the bed up to temp!
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
M117 Auto bed-level GO!
G29 ; Auto bed-level (BL-Touch)
G1 X315 Y301 ; Park right side during nozzle warmup
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M117 Getting the extruder up to temp!
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
G1 X300 Y200 Z0.28 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
M117 LET THE PURGE BEGIN!
G1 X300 Y20.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw 1st line
G1 X298 Y20.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X298 Y200 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw 2nd line
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z up little to prevent scratching of surface
M117 Autobots! Roll Out!
; End of custom start GCode
how could you move 0.12mm in z-axis? I only can move in 0.1mm steps
Hello Thewisi88, Thank you for commenting. I'm running a different firmware. Check out this video if you want to flash it on your CR10S Pro V2.
th-cam.com/video/F1Lk7N5CMo4/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Hey Victor. Yeah, I saw that 1 hour later ;) Thank you for answering! definitely woth upgrading to your firmware as I can see! But I just increased by 0,1mm and this also works great.
That was a really good help. But what I found out was, that also the wrong (or bad) material can has a big influence on stringing.
@@thewisi88The Tiny Machines 3D firmware is awesome. BL-Touch probing routine is way faster than the stock firmware. Check out my video on how I tune CURA for new filaments. I've only ever used Amazon Basics, Overture, and SUNLU PETGs but can imagine that improperly formulated filaments could contribute to messy prints.
th-cam.com/video/0SZjN1BOS1Y/w-d-xo.html
No offense but if you don't care about 1/4mm over-extrusion and which was eye-balled where you placed the tape to begin with, then you shouldn't use a high precision caliper to measure anything. Just use a ruler or measuring tape. Kind of of silly pseudo-engineering.
Hi Ruben, Thank you for commenting. I've since changed the way I do it. Currently I print out a 110mm long tube with a 1.9mm inside diameter that I slip the filament through and use it as a stop for the flat side of the blue nippers to create a slight depression in the filament that I can feel with my finger nail after removing the tube. My tape is placed there. The caliper is the best tool, for me, to find the measurement of the filament section between the tape and extruder entrance after the test. How would I have known it was over extruded by .25mm? That measurement is 1/4 the thickness of a standard sheet of paper.