CR10S PRO - BLTOUCH BED LEVELING. Auto bed leveling and z offset. Beginner's guide to bed leveling
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 เม.ย. 2020
- CR10S PRO - BLTOUCH BED LEVELING. Auto bed leveling the z offset. Beginner's guide to bed leveling. This video is in response to a question a viewer had on how to level the bed when using the bl touch 3.1 version.
Recommended viewing:
Creality CR10s Pro Z axis and Bed Leveling - Fix layer shifts - • Creality CR10s Pro Z a...
CR10S PRO UPGRADE - Cr10s pro version 1 and the bltouch smart version 3.1 Install guide. - • CR10S PRO UPGRADE - BL...
CR10S PRO BLTOUCH FIRMWARE UPDATE - Response to update comment - How to find firmware • CR10S PRO BLTOUCH FIRM...
CR10s Pro Fan Stl - www.thingiverse.com/thing:422...
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Creality 3D Printer CR-10S Pro V2 - amzn.to/2XsEZU3
ANTCLABS BLTouch : Auto Bed Leveling Sensor (with 2M Extension Cable Set) - amzn.to/38dCYwG
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Canon EOS 6D Mark II Wi-Fi DSLR Camera Body - amzn.to/39RY6Ki
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#cr10spro #3dprinting - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Please can I have a tutorial on how to get Tiny Machines on this printer. Thanks
I've already done a tutorial on this. Please watch the other videos in the description. Starting with this one CR10S PRO UPGRADE - BLTOUCH V 3.1. Bltouch installation guide for the cr10s pro V1. th-cam.com/video/iJjqOUlZHUw/w-d-xo.html Also watch CR10S PRO BLTOUCH FIRMWARE UPDATE - Response to update comment - How to find the firmware th-cam.com/video/Oy3suF0OYRo/w-d-xo.html
And close to 2 years later, when I once again, needed to level the bed but didn't remember how to, your video is the savior. Thank you so much 🙂
Glad it helped!
Probably the best video I've seen so far explaining this process... I'm still trying to dial this in but I'm making progress.... at least I'm not making bird's nests anymore. thanks for the help!
just wanted to write and say that this is a great video at explaining bedlevelling and some of the considerations for newbies like me at 3d printing. thank you!
Awesome, thank you! Hope you get some great printing results.!
@@DiyProJames I did! love cr10s pro v2 - my first printer and I have already made 3 pretty good prints so far! :)
Simplest and best one to follow, with excellent explanations of the why and how. Thank you man!
you're welcome, Thanks.
Thanks for this vid! Exactly what I needed.
You're welcome..
Great content, keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
So i’ve been having problems regarding the z-offset, ive tried lowering it like you did, but when it starts a print, the value is not stored and the offset is too big again.. when leveling-and the offset is correct, i pressed the home button to hopefully save it?? I noticed that you turned your printer off after adjusting, is that the missing piece that i have not done correct?
Thx James awesome video work like a charm on the first try!
Great to hear!
Nice. Thanks a lot for the time invested.
Hi James,
Thanks for your videos.
Happy owner of a CR-10S PRO (V1) I of course mounted a BLtouch v3.1 with the help of your video and flashed my card with the tinymachine firmware. May you be happy for 3 months ... until today.
The home seems to be working but my BLTouch is taking extra delusional measures during the "measuring" of the 25 points of the plateau. It is however well adjusted on the home and the 4 corners. But each measurement during leveling takes between 50 to 100 µ more at each point until its probing fails when the value exceeds 2 mm. That is to say that it starts for example at 0.239 (which seems to me already high compared to the values I had before rather situated between 0.004 and 0.150 ...), at the second point it measures 0.310, in the 3rd 0.407 etc ... until failing around the 15th point (sometimes before or after). Then he starts the probing all alone and the first gives 0.348 (!), Almost 100µ of difference with the first measurement of the previous leveling (???!). Then the same, it increases until completely planting "printer default" on the 2nd failed probing.
What do you think ? Is my BLTouch dead? Firmware problem? To be precise, I did a "reset" of the BL but it didn't change anything ... ditto for EPROM emptying.
There i stall :-/
Try this method...th-cam.com/video/VC6Tny5BNMY/w-d-xo.html Instead of using the hex file. Use the Arduino Ide to upload the firmware and see if it changes anything. If it doesn't it maybe a hardware issue. I have a config file on thingiverse. Try it out and see if there is any difference..
15:28 mark:
When I get to this stage, even if the AUX leveling prior is nice and tight, about halfway through the “measure” part the z-axis suddenly goes to about the middle of the entire printer’s height.
Then, if I go back to AUX leveling it stays in the middle of the air and travels to all of the x and y points like normal. Just….way up in the air.
The z-axis compensation is set to 0 (that was the first thing I checked).
I’m really stumped with this one! Im not an expert at 3D printing but I’ve put together, modified, and fixed the five that I do have. I know basic troubleshooting, which is why this kills me.
Thank you man ❤
Thanks a lot!! A life saivior! 👍👍👍
wow man you just saved me hours of trying, do you know where I can get a stl for the wood tool that came with it? i need one to make sure its level that way too.. thanks again
Did you preheat your bed/nozzle before aux levelling?
Great video James! I changed from one brand of PLA filament to another because of color, and the new brand doesn’t seem to be sticking together between layers and it is jacking-up my prints. Do you think it is temp, and that I need to increase it for the new filament? I printed my wife about 8 cookie cutters in the first color, no problems - not even leveling inbetween. Any suggestions? Also, using Ultimaker Cura, do you change any settings or do you keep them the same? Thanks!
Every filament is different, but usually pla filament temperature range is 185 to 205c. If you still have problem pay a little more for quality filament.
Hi James,
I recently added a BL Touch to my 10s Pro V1, flashed the screen and firmware from Tiny Machines. The Z offset shows the difference between where the probe thinks the bed is and where the nozzle would be on the bed. Therefore, when making adjustments to Z when a print starts, you are adjusting from that Z offset value instead of 0, or 0.2 mm where the nozzle would be. Is there a way to make the screen show the nozzle position instead of the nozzle relative to the probe?
The auto bed level values are the values of the nozzle relative to the bed. When you home. That homed value is the value of the nozzle in reference to the bed. Since there is a fixed difference between the nozzle and bl touch you are just offsetting that value. In a perfect world with a perfectly straight bed that value would be 0 , but since there are imperfections on the bed you get the plus and minus values.
like Ur videos, question I'm new to this 3d thing when I got machine it printed fine in center of bed but when i downloaded Cura it started to print in front left corner of plate. need help how do i get it to print in center again.ty
Leveling Question Between Two Printers
I have a Creality CR-10. When leveling the bed I use a sheet of paper that’s between .003”-.004”. I recently got a Creality CR-10S-Pro that came with a filler gauge that’s around .020” which is 5-7 times as thick as the piece of paper that I was using to level my regular Creality CR-10 printer. I installed a BL Touch on the Creality CR10S-Pro. When leveling the bed and setting the Z offset do you go with a sheet of paper that’s between .003”-.004” or a a filler gauge that’s .020”. I seem to be having some issues after setting the Z-offset with the .020”. If I don’t manually move the printer head (in the -Z) direction the filament won’t stick to the bed all the time.
Thank you for the time and help.
Go with the one that works. The feeler guage is a guide just to get even thickness in height across the 4 corners. You don't need to use the guage or paper with more and more experience and a good eye. The feeler guage is good if you're leveling when the nozzle is hot because sometimes the oozing plastic throws you off visually. With the guage you can feel the actual tension between the nozzle and bed by moving it around. I feel that the nozzle should be lower than to .02mm guage. This distance varies slightly by which type of bed surface your using. The best way to level is to offset the z in baby steps while in print. I think the guage is there for beginners because they don't want users to dig the nozzle into the bed.
Hi James and thank you for all your excellent videos, they are a great help. However, I am wondering if you might do another one on this same subject. To me this leveling is probably the most important aspect of 3D printing as it is the foundation stone of every print. I have followed your video and can do the leveling as per instructions. BUT! I don't fully understand the steps, being of an age where brain cells are rapidly diminishing I would like to understand what Z-Offset is, when to set it, what button to press to lock it in. Maybe you could also explain about the "Auto Leveling" on/off switch, when should it be on, when should it be off. Should the measuring be done at the final stage or can it be done anytime? Maybe it should be done before each job? If you could give us the basic general steps and then elaborate each individual step, that would be awesome. I am using the BL-Touch with the TinyMachines latest firmware. I have also installed the SwissMicro DD Extruder and hotend and used your guide to setup the e-steps etc.
Keep up the great work, Moike.
Ok, I might have to break down this into a series of videos into a playlist... It might be easier to understand if I break down a component to a video... I'm assuming your asking me these questions because your prints are not turning out well... One thing you may have overlooked. When using a direct drive extruder you need to turn off retraction in your slicer settings. This may help in your overall printing.
@@DiyProJames Thanks for reply, I am much obliged. No, prints are reasonable but I just would like to understand everything properly. I followed your excellent e-Step calibration video and reduced retraction as recommended by SwissMicro to 1.5/35. Specifically I would like to understand A. when and how to actually set Z-Offset. After pressing the up down arrows to achieve this do you need to actually press the home button in the middle to lock that offset in or does it just stay automatically after adjustment. Also, B. I would love an explanation of the "Auto Leveling" button, i.e. when, where and why it would be on or off. In various parts of your video I see it on and sometimes off but never see you turning it on or off. Thanks again for your time and response.
Hi James, I have a question about this, have seen a lot of youtubers where the homing of the head stops where you have it at about 9:00 mins into your video, my cr10s pro always stays put in the middle of the bed, not like yours and not like others
Why is this different for me?
I have exact same firmware and your bl touch mount and just made the z offset and all, and still this is different...you have any idea why?
It's because the you are not using the same firmware as others. Just because you're using the "same firmware" doesn't mean some of the authors have not changed the values in the code.... Meaning just like the offset values of the mount x,y,z. Someone has set the homing to be on the bottom left of the bed and not the center. If you want to change the values you need to install the arduino ide and change the homing on the configuration.h file. I actually mention it on one of the ender 3 videos I did. I don't remember exactly which one at the moment... However it doesn't make a difference in the values in offsets because it's all relative values. The only difference is the travel distance in the start of the print.
Another great video James, thank you.
I've just fitted a BLTouch to my CR10s Pro V1, with the help of your previous videos, using the Tiny Machines firmware from your link and I've noticed that, the home position is offset from the centre of the bed, the BLTouch pin is in what appears to be the centre meaning the nozzle is offset to the right.
Great to hear!
On note (at about 9:30)...if you intialize eeprom ... if you have altered your esteps for your extruder, those will go back to default. I have a Bondtech BMG on my CR-10S Pro V2 and forgot to checked that...until the start of my next print was massively under extruding!
Yes, whenever you initialize the eeprom you'll restore to "original default settings" Usually not something you want to do. You can just initialize auto bed leveling without resetting the eeprom, but I wanted those bed leveling values to be the default 0 values. I did not want to get off handed questions like does the value get calculated by adding and subtracting the previous values.
very cool video! my printer comes next week this will be very helpful!!!! will this work on the v2 aswell? CHEERS!
Yes, it will work with the v2. The procedure for leveling is similar for most FDM printers. You're going to have fun. Hope you bought extra filament.
Hi James, after level 5 point, nozzle E Heating and move to the position , everytime is too low, so i adjust z offset higher around 0.2mm , and then i turn off the machine , but after i turn on and choose leveling mode, the z offset seem like too high again, i have no idea which step i did wrong....
What type of sensor are you using? Reset the eeprom and retry. What happens when your print? Is it still high?
Hi
thanks for your great video!
I have CR 10s pro v2 but i can't see the tools option on screen !!! where is that do i need to update or somethings like that?
If you don't see it. Probably means you're running a different version of firmware than mine.
@@DiyProJames thanks for respond
Do you know how to update that
I’ve been having a horrible time with my CR10S Pro V2 and I’m a total newbie but to make sure I’m right you set the Z Offset first and then level the 4 corners? I had always thought it was the other way around?
No you are correct you level the four corners. Then set the z offset.. Then auto level... and some minor adjustments in between.... You probably missed some parts or skipped parts of the video...
This video is also part of a playlist.. so this video mainly deals with how to set the z-offset which many people have requested....
Many people have had problems adjusting the stock sensor..
DiyProJames I see in the video when you start leveling the first thing you do after it homes is hit -Z until it reaches your feeler gauge at Z-0.80 at the center before you started the corners. I had assumed I was just supposed to let it home and go straight to leveling corner 2. Skipping that step makes sense for why my edges were always high and my center low. It doesn’t mention this in the manual but makes a lot of sense when you think about the leveling process. Correct me if I’m wrong anywhere.
@@DiyProJames can you help me i have a cr 10 s pro that comes with bl 3.1 and when leveling it crashes into the heat bed
I noticed there was a little rocking of the printer on your table, can the feet of the printer be adjusted?
No you can't adjust the rubber feet... You can probably print out something to keep it even.. The rocking motion will affect the print a little bit..
You best of the best
thanks
I set my springs to half way between loose and fully tight
Hey, just installed the bl touch on to my CR10S pro and when I click leveling, the nozzle goes straight into the build plate and doesn't stop. The bl touch will not stop blinking blue and red. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Try triggering the bltouch with your finger. Check to see if probe deploys when going down... I think most likely the bltouch z min wires are switched.
@@DiyProJames I tried triggering it with my finger, the probe deploys and turns red upon contact. But the z axis won't react at all. Thanks for the quick response, will definitely subscribe!
This is not what many of the viewers wanted from you. Actually you explained the Aux Leveling and the Auto Leveling. But we want to know how to adjust the BL Touch. How to adjust the BL Touch, to make it lower the nozzle to the exact distance from bed? Like in the Proximity sensor, we were able to adjust its sensitivity by turning the screw on the top of it, using a screwdriver. Like wise, how does the BL Touch knows what we want? Or is it only about the bracket that we use to fix it exactly where it should be, and that height is considered perfect to adjust the distance between the brass nozzle and bed? If this is so, then what if a 3D printed bracket has got an extra layer on it, which will lower or withdraw a thread distance from where it is supposed to be?
I notice in some leveling videos they turn off the auto leveling? Is this necessary? Thanks.
It's recommended when you first physically level the bed. After that you can autolevel.
Is there a way to store the values ? I have to level mine every day or if I turn the machine on / off
Yes, use the m500 command after doing the auto leveling. Then use the m420 s1 command in the slicer.
Please watch this video if you need more help.. th-cam.com/video/qYhnfbGYe7Q/w-d-xo.html
@@DiyProJames it says the video is private.
@@myname2263 It's been made public.
Hi James, with the Cr10s Pro V2, if bltouch does not get all 25 measuring points does that means it needs to be replaced? I just got my printer yesterday and having a hard time understanding this whole leveling thing. Sometimes the x gantry goes the opposite direction of 0 and other times the 0 is 3 inches above the bed. I notice when it auto homes, the nozzle rest on the bed more like falls on it, I take it this is incorrect? Lots of questions but good video !
This is a question I get a lot and the answer will always be the same if it works there is no need to upgrade or change your printer. You want to make a change or upgrade if the printer is not performing to your needs... I have 25 measuring points because I'm using a slightly different firmware than the one that comes stock.. Learn and play around with your printer first before deciding to make any changes to your printer. The hotend will go up and down and probe the bed. You're bed will never be perfectly straight. Even if it looks straight to the naked eye there will always be a little tolerance deviation. This is why the probe or bltouch takes those measurement and it will compensate via software. So the z axis (up down axis) When homed will take a first point (home position) You can refer to that as 0. Then the bltouch will probe the other position in sequence relative to the first or homed position. When probed it may give a higher(+) position or lower position(-) (actual physical location in z axis) This is recorded via software. During the printing process this value is calculated and compensated for making the initial print more level.
The z offset is the offset between the nozzle to the probe... because if the probe deploys higher than the nozzle it will never touch the bed and the sensor will not be tripped. So the probe has to always deploy below the nozzle, but that will not be the location of the nozzle. The nozzle will sit higher than the deployed probe. This difference is the z offset you set manually.
Let me put it this way the sensor does not detect the nozzle in relation to the bed. This you set manually. The probe detects the bed. You set the value of offset from the probe to the nozzle. If done correctly your nozzle should almost touch the bed. You won't be able to see the small space between the nozzle and bed with the naked eye. It will be less than 1mm. However, after some experience you'll be able to tell by how the first layer sticks to the bed or how much squish there is on the first layer.
To get more precise printing the leveling mesh shoud show the lowest possible difference between the bed lowest location and the higherst one, because if you print something using the superfine quality you get less deviation of the layer height
In your video you got +0.050 (or +0.060, the right value cannot be read because of the insuffcient video resolution) at location 1 and -0.125 (- 0.126) at location 8. The differenc is at least 0.175 mm, furthermore between to locations at almost minimum distance each other.
If you print very high quality (let's say 0.16 layer thickness) this is too much difference.
To get the overall minimum difference you have to do the first coarse bed levelling, and all the subsequent operations (so the entire process) with the bed and the nozzle heated, more or less at 60/200 degrees. The exact values don't matter, they have to be close to the temperatures which will mainly be used in real printing.
Furthermore it is wrong to suggest different spring tensions for light and heavy models: once the bed has been levelled, for future adjustments (due to the very slight deformation of the bed plate in the time, which is not avoidable because any material submitted to many heating and coolling processes doesn't maintain forever the exact original shape) you need very very little strokes of the levelling wheels. So you can from the beginning put the springs in a relatively high tension, without of course bring them to full compression. By doing so you have anyway a very stable bed, and you can print any kind of model (light or heavy it makes no difference) without the bed changing its vertical position, being anyway able to slightly adjust the vertica position of the four corners if you need it in the future.
I own a Cr10s Pro V2 can't level the bed for no reason i am going to follow your instructions here hope i get it right. I am thinking ive just wasted 509$ for no reason. Ive literally watched all other TH-camrs videos and everything os wrong
Which sensor is on your v2? You may want to upgrade to a different sensor or if your bed is too deformed; you may have to correct the problem first.
@@DiyProJames I've used ur method i printed in a large area of the bed still in some areas the nozzle is up high I think its the bed that's deformed. How to check for sure so i can contact creality; 1st layer test in 90% of the build plate;
hello what software do you use on your printer please can you share
I use cura to slice and raspberry with octoprint
@@DiyProJames the menu of your device is very different from my cr-10 pro 2v.
@@niyazicakar9703 It maybe that it's a different version of the same firmware..
@@DiyProJames very good how can I find the version you used
@@niyazicakar9703 The The firmware I use can be obtained here. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4191875/files
Would be cool of the ender 3 max had similar software. Bltouch is harder to use
Agreed 😁
noooiiccce
thank you.
why is this still rocket science in 2021?....should'd it be able to do all this by it self? (its PRO and Auto bed leveling? Is that just sales tales?)
If you buy one with the bl touch installed you don't have to worry about the manual leveling. The capacitive and inductive sensors these printers come with are finicky. Pro just means dual z rods and internals are added to base with a different hotend. It's a pro version of the cr10.
Thanx James for this video, explained something I missed from another video on how to level the centre point on the bed. But before I did all that, I updated the firmware and touch screen with Tiny Machines 3D article - docs.google.com/document/d/1vWUVN9_2U3Rytkj5gCPo__fBQ_UFlK7YM-v_7dAWn7s/edit -it just works!! - Just take note when flashing the touch screen software only use the 8GB sdcard, as the 16Gb sdcard, I was using would not complete the update correctly. Doing my first test print now.
Great, thanks, hope you get some good looking prints.
my guess is this is a 1mm feeler gauge
This is the .02mm stock feeler guage that came with the printer.
Bro I will pay you to help me.
What is the problem?