Do you have a fascinating story about your car that you'd like to share with us? We are all ears! Don't hesitate to leave a comment and let us know all about it!
For all you that want to Turbo or Super Charge your ND1 just remember the new ND transmission was designed around the 1.5 iter 128 HP engine. The North American design engineer Dave Coleman had the Japanese Mazda design engineers meet with Miata enthusiasts & it was made clear to them that 1.5 L engine would not go over well in the US. So it was Dave Coleman who got approval from Mazda Japan to have the 2.0 Liter engine mated to that new transmission ( designed for the 1.5 Liter engine ). This is why anybody thinking of doing more HP should consider what is going to happen EVEN with an ND2 transmission with the upgrades Mazda made. Vitale did the upgrade right with that NC transmission & beefing up the cooling system all around. Turbo's run much hotter ! More stress on the engine oil / more wear on the parts & that is a fact of life. Love the naturally aspirated 2016 Club soft top I drive daily in 4 season weather.
Great info! All that you said about the ND transmission is true. It sucks that they did that because it makes aftermarket power increases very limited with the stock transmission. Then you run into connecting rod issues shortly after. Best to keep it N/A like you have or just go all in and get a better transmission.
Great summary. For anyone not interested in boosting, picking an ND2 is a good set-and-forget choice as not only do all ND2's have an updated v5 trans, but also shorter input shaft, dual-mass flywheel, and revised ECU tuning to better limit driveline oscillation (that's besides the obvious ECU tuning to bump up the HP/TQ performance). Unfortunately even stock ND1's had a lot of transmissions that ended up grenading at seemingly random times.
@@motopolak The older ND1 transmission build dates are more suspect. Mazda has been good about changing out those transmissions under warranty provided owners didn't add a Turbo or Super Charger to increase power. Even the owners who auto - Xed or tracked their cars got transmissions replaced under warranty. I remember a ND1 owner getting 2 transmissions replaced all under warranty ( no added power just tracking the car ) after the 2nd transmission he was told by Mazda that it would no longer replace under warranty. He sold his ND1 & got an ND2 ! I have an extended warranty on my ND1 but have no plans to add power. The transmission has been absolutely butter smooth after 5,000 miles. Buyers should drive the cars because ND1's have a slight torque advantage down low. ND2s develop their power gains above 6500 rpms.
It's a well known weak item - I blew mine stock. Mine blew the same way as you - getting onto an on ramp, I was actually able to limp my car home using some of the higher gears.
@@BrateTebra123 Yes, apparently Mazda fixed it for the ND2 so you should be able to daily/track it stock without issues. I think they have also said they will cover it if you somehow destroy the transmission, but that may only be for an ND1.
Thanks bud. Great video with alot of vital info. Iv been looking into this. Iv literally done almost every mod you can do too my nd1 except forced induction.
Glad the video was useful. A turbo is a great next step! Just keep in mind the transmission will need to be changed. Will drop a new video soon about ND1 Miata hp limits.
Interesting that the NC may be that sweet spot for people who want to take an MX5 and add power/turn it into a major track machine with mostly stock parts. Cheaper to buy as well. I still see the ND2 as being the best Miata to date if you want to keep it stock, but it will be interesting to see what happens to it over 10 or 20 years of mods.
More an aid to the synchros I would think. It used to be absolutely necessary on '60s and '70s Alfa Romeos. Those used 90wt oil and were very difficult to shift in really cold weather. But the pedal arrangement on those was very good for heel and toe work, better than Miatas.
You don't understand what double clutching does and doesn't do. It's not about the clutch, it MAY take some load off your synchros. But that's neither here nor there, as the transmission synchros aren't the problem.
@@opmike343 in my book less load on synchros means smoother shifts and less grinding, as opposed to going directly to next gear with single clutch engagement. Maybe I do not understand anything, but my ND’s manual shifter worked fine for 55k+ miles without need to change anything for what it is worth
@@opmike343 note that I only advocated on double clutching while transmission oil is cold. After the car warmed up, I reverted back to regular single clutch shifts
That’s what I was afraid of when I added the turbo. We went with a NC stage 2 built tranny from Walter Motorsports and the BBR ND/NC adapter. We definitely needed it for the BBR Stage 2 Turbo build and 300 whp/~345 flywheel HP. I haven’t had any cooking issues with mine in the SC heat yet. Great vid but 300 whp isn’t too much!😊
2017 RF turbo owner here , I know exactly what you’re talking about, running NC transmission with flyin Miata adapter ,NC clutch ,NC clutch slave cyl, 124 abarth rear end was told gearing are different, never tried with the Miata rear end did you? Following your built
Glad to hear others with a similar build! Gearing is different with the NC Miata transmission and 124 Abarth differential compared to stock but its not too huge of a difference. Still at around 3500 rpm at 80 MPH which is manageable.
Great video! Thank you for sharing all that information. I am considering buying a 2016 or newer MX-5 Miata (I prefer the RF version with a manual transmission). If I buy it, I will keep it stock. I don't know much about Mazdas and when you mentioned that the ND1 transmissions are a No-No and I look at the picture I cannot figure out what you mean. Help please. I am going to be test driving one this weekend. Again, thank you for the video and for any information you could share. Regards
thanks for this, could you made a step by step guide on how you did the nc gearbox swap and install? would love to know all the steps and the footfalls you ran into. as there hasnt been any other content creator to make this on the ND platform
Wait until NE generation with fully electric motors and miata's "underpowered" story will end. If anything it will be a scary car to drive :D Bought my 2018 Club with the thought to upgrade with turbo later. After a few months of driving I realized I loved her the way she was. Would I use more power? Yes, but immediate response of the naturally aspirated engine, reliability under high revs, tolerance to abuse and 30-33 mpg is a treasure to keep!
If fully electric, power to weight ratio and effects on agility are a concern. Also, spontaneous fires, longer winter charging times, reduced cold weather driving range and higher initial purchase price. But… you’re right. “….scary car….”. Especially 0 to 60 mph straight line times ! Done safely, much fun ! Zoom-Zoom…. 🫨🫨😳😃 !
@@ScottALaFollette This one was hillarious. 400HP even had very anime style cute turbo blow off valve sound :D th-cam.com/video/b79hTRFY90Y/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for sharing your MX-5/life experiences so the rest of us can “contemplate our life choices” financially and otherwise. 🤔💭💡 Eloquently spoken and to the point. 🎯💪👍 Realistic Zoom-Zoom with aplomb !
Four cylinder, conventual driveline is the right car for this day and age. Fuel, insurance, and everything costs makes V-8's (in most cases) are over the top.
Helpful video. Thanks Vitale. When you bought your Miata in 2016 was it a base Sport Package model or Club package? You indicated that you changed to a rear slip-differential. Did you purchase a Miata came with a standard differential?
I bought the GT version, and that spec comes with an open diff from the factory. I installed a Fiat 124 Abarth LSD in the rear which matches the gear ratio of the NC Miata transmission which I installed in the car. Only the Club spec comes with a LSD from the factory which is unfortunate.
Supercharger and fbo at 40k. Slight grind sometimes first to second. After act clutch. No grind. My transmission is good imo. My engine had 4th cylinder misfire 60 psi. Engine replaced 89600. Def need suspension. Tires. Swaybars. Brakes. Before boost.
fyi the fiat 124 had an NC transmission too for this exact reason! it i wonder if that flying miata plate is any different to the bell housing on that car
I'm turbo charging my 2016 MX-5 club. I have a ND2 transmission I'm putting in it. I know you tried that. Which flywheel did you have to use? I need a ND1 flywheel still, correct?
Amazing video 😄! Just a feedback - next time the soundtrack in background could be a little more turned down so we can hear and understand you better 😃
I couldn't imagine how awesome it is to have a turbo ND. lol My 2023 ND just has bolt on mods and it's already a fairly decent DD in terms of speed etc. I do like the 6 speed in these. lol
Interestingly not, as the ND transmission works fine until you start sending any additional torque though the transmission. Sucks for people who want to modify their Miata.
It's probably one of the newer transmissions that may be very slightly better. Forgot a lot of that technical information but I know it can be found online
Insightful video, but wouldnt you do your research before turbocharging your car? Considering that its no secret anymore that 1st gen transmissions like to blow up, especially when giving it more torque than stock.
I dont know where you are located but in Europe a company called BBR recommand to swap ND gearbox with NC gearbox. Basically there is a plate provide to fit the NC gearbox on the ND skyactiv engine. Also you need to use a reinforced NC clutch if you want to boost your Miata. Friend of mine with an ND 1.5 BBR 210 kit broke is transmission 3000km after installing the kit, so if you keep the OE component your gearbox will have reliability issues soon or later.
@@floriandugoli5923 i am italian and i live in Rome. I own an ND2 RF 2.0 184hp. On my opinion the car is already great stock. I just installed a sporty air filter, a decent exhaust from ulter sport ( the central double exit ) and spacers for the wheels. I know bbr. I am considering to buy their turbo kit but still with huge doubts. Tge use i do of my miata is street. I think maybe spending at least 10000€ for such a work could bring some unespected issue that can at the end only ruin the driving pleasure.
@@lucianolucidi8624 Hello Luciano ! Im from France so we are neighbors :) You already have a nice setup, ND2 184 is a really good car ! I have a ND 1.5 with only a Cobalt exhaust and Bilstein B12 kit and there is a huge gap in term of performance, i think a ND2 184 can be appreciated without being modified too much. It is really up to you but considering the fact that you cannot push to much on the gearbox and on the internals, that will be a huge bill to make the car faster but not better. 10k€ will be the minimum bill even if you do some of the work yourself
@@floriandugoli5923 yess we are cousins 😉. I must agree with you the ND2 184hp its pretty much perfect. Recaro seats, biltein suspensions and the game has done. I love mine in his superb red mazda color. I think I will leave it like it is. We have a f..g great car bro. 💪 greatings from Rome.
@@lucianolucidi8624 Miata is always the answers no matter if it is stock or turbocharged ! ;) Enjoy your ND184 and keep it, this is the last moment of ICE engine. May be see you on the road ! That was great to talk with you mate 👍🏻
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You don't a strut bar between suspensions towers? Why? Where in Europe all 2.0 have.
This is exactly why you leave it alone. I mean just how fast do you want to push these cars anyway 🤷♂️. Mine is stock and I’ve had more than my fair share of speeding tickets in it. Mazda has refined and designed these cars no for over thirty years. Plus you’ll void any warranty for mucking around with it. Not to mention lower resale value.
I recently blew up my 2nd transmission. Both where v1's -_- So im probably going the same route you did with the NC transmission. My Miata has the BBR super 200 pack and i love to take it to the nurburgring. unfortunately its starting to get an expensive hobby. What happens if you dont change the differential? Also good quality video, but the audio could use some work, maybe a lapel mic with windhood could help.
I would definitely recommend grabbing an NC Miata transmission if you can. It's been Super reliable for over 30k miles. The NC Miata transmission is geared differently compared to the ND, so if you do not change the diff, the gearing would be extremely impractical. I appreciate the advice.
I own a nd 2022 "miata" or MX5. Top reliable car. That is not a miata problem. If you have a car an want to be reliable, keep it stock or if you don’t, know what you’re doing. If you increase the power of the engine, you’ve got to do increase everything with the same proportion.
First gear is for getting going, second gear takes you to 20 mph tops. Third gear is much stronger than lower gears. The root of the issue is wanting too much from first two gears.
Literally anyone could have predicted your transmission failure. Vehicles are designed as a unit and each part is engineered to be compatible with all other parts. You can't just push 80 lb-ft more torque into a transmission that wasn't designed to handle it.This should be obvious, but common sense isn't very common, I guess.
My 2016 Sport model has almost 93,000 miles, the transmission is doing fine. Of course the engine is stock and I drive like an adult. The only modification on my car is the Big Little Wilwood brake kit from Flyin'Miata. The stock rear calipers didn't like the salted New Hampshire roads I drive on. The Wilwoods do better, I hose them down once in a while in winter.
Hmmm... I work for a GM company and they have quite a few factory transmissions that can be boosted with no issues. Of course, someone has to be the guinea pig too find out what is too much.
I have an nd2, 2nd gear blew at 17k just driving normally from a red light. These are just poorly made trannys, the gears are really not as durable as the NC. Had it replaced under warranty, but now I have no faith in putting a supercharger with the stock nd tranny.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Do you have a fascinating story about your car that you'd like to share with us? We are all ears! Don't hesitate to leave a comment and let us know all about it!
For all you that want to Turbo or Super Charge your ND1 just remember the new ND transmission was designed around the 1.5 iter 128 HP engine. The North American design engineer Dave Coleman had the Japanese Mazda design engineers meet with Miata enthusiasts & it was made clear to them that 1.5 L engine would not go over well in the US. So it was Dave Coleman who got approval from Mazda Japan to have the 2.0 Liter engine mated to that new transmission ( designed for the 1.5 Liter engine ). This is why anybody thinking of doing more HP should consider what is going to happen EVEN with an ND2 transmission with the upgrades Mazda made. Vitale did the upgrade right with that NC transmission & beefing up the cooling system all around. Turbo's run much hotter ! More stress on the engine oil / more wear on the parts & that is a fact of life. Love the naturally aspirated 2016 Club soft top I drive daily in 4 season weather.
Great info! All that you said about the ND transmission is true. It sucks that they did that because it makes aftermarket power increases very limited with the stock transmission. Then you run into connecting rod issues shortly after. Best to keep it N/A like you have or just go all in and get a better transmission.
This happens quite often to those who track their cars.
Great summary. For anyone not interested in boosting, picking an ND2 is a good set-and-forget choice as not only do all ND2's have an updated v5 trans, but also shorter input shaft, dual-mass flywheel, and revised ECU tuning to better limit driveline oscillation (that's besides the obvious ECU tuning to bump up the HP/TQ performance). Unfortunately even stock ND1's had a lot of transmissions that ended up grenading at seemingly random times.
@@motopolak The older ND1 transmission build dates are more suspect. Mazda has been good about changing out those transmissions under warranty provided owners didn't add a Turbo or Super Charger to increase power. Even the owners who auto - Xed or tracked their cars got transmissions replaced under warranty. I remember a ND1 owner getting 2 transmissions replaced all under warranty ( no added power just tracking the car ) after the 2nd transmission he was told by Mazda that it would no longer replace under warranty. He sold his ND1 & got an ND2 !
I have an extended warranty on my ND1 but have no plans to add power. The transmission has been absolutely butter smooth after 5,000 miles. Buyers should drive the cars because ND1's have a slight torque advantage down low. ND2s develop their power gains above 6500 rpms.
1.5 is actually a better car but everyone is focused on numbers these days not driving pleasure.
It's a well known weak item - I blew mine stock. Mine blew the same way as you - getting onto an on ramp, I was actually able to limp my car home using some of the higher gears.
Sorry to hear about that! Did you replace it with another stock transmission or something else?
@@Vitalewastaken covered under warranty and sold on.
Is that one of the first series od ND1?
@@BrateTebra123 Yes, apparently Mazda fixed it for the ND2 so you should be able to daily/track it stock without issues. I think they have also said they will cover it if you somehow destroy the transmission, but that may only be for an ND1.
@@Swarm509😂 I have an ND2 and blew up yesterday, stock with no more than 10,000km
Nice to hear sensible & informed commentary. Good job.
Thanks bud. Great video with alot of vital info. Iv been looking into this. Iv literally done almost every mod you can do too my nd1 except forced induction.
Glad the video was useful. A turbo is a great next step! Just keep in mind the transmission will need to be changed. Will drop a new video soon about ND1 Miata hp limits.
Interesting that the NC may be that sweet spot for people who want to take an MX5 and add power/turn it into a major track machine with mostly stock parts. Cheaper to buy as well. I still see the ND2 as being the best Miata to date if you want to keep it stock, but it will be interesting to see what happens to it over 10 or 20 years of mods.
Double clutching also helps to save the clutch after cold start while shifting from first to second gear.
More an aid to the synchros I would think. It used to be absolutely necessary on '60s and '70s Alfa Romeos. Those used 90wt oil and were very difficult to shift in really cold weather. But the pedal arrangement on those was very good for heel and toe work, better than Miatas.
You don't understand what double clutching does and doesn't do. It's not about the clutch, it MAY take some load off your synchros. But that's neither here nor there, as the transmission synchros aren't the problem.
@@opmike343 in my book less load on synchros means smoother shifts and less grinding, as opposed to going directly to next gear with single clutch engagement. Maybe I do not understand anything, but my ND’s manual shifter worked fine for 55k+ miles without need to change anything for what it is worth
@@opmike343 note that I only advocated on double clutching while transmission oil is cold. After the car warmed up, I reverted back to regular single clutch shifts
I want an ND as a second car to my 10th gen si so bad.
That’s what I was afraid of when I added the turbo. We went with a NC stage 2 built tranny from Walter Motorsports and the BBR ND/NC adapter. We definitely needed it for the BBR Stage 2 Turbo build and 300 whp/~345 flywheel HP. I haven’t had any cooking issues with mine in the SC heat yet. Great vid but 300 whp isn’t too much!😊
Thanks for your review and information ❤
2017 RF turbo owner here , I know exactly what you’re talking about, running NC transmission with flyin Miata adapter ,NC clutch ,NC clutch slave cyl, 124 abarth rear end was told gearing are different, never tried with the Miata rear end did you? Following your built
Glad to hear others with a similar build! Gearing is different with the NC Miata transmission and 124 Abarth differential compared to stock but its not too huge of a difference. Still at around 3500 rpm at 80 MPH which is manageable.
@@Vitalewastaken Yea its around 3000 with the stock ND1 transmission at 80 MPH .
Great video! Thank you for sharing all that information. I am considering buying a 2016 or newer MX-5 Miata (I prefer the RF version with a manual transmission). If I buy it, I will keep it stock. I don't know much about Mazdas and when you mentioned that the ND1 transmissions are a No-No and I look at the picture I cannot figure out what you mean. Help please. I am going to be test driving one this weekend. Again, thank you for the video and for any information you could share. Regards
ND1 transmissions are usually fine stock or with bolt on mods, if you go forced induction def need to swap it out for something stronger.
thanks for this, could you made a step by step guide on how you did the nc gearbox swap and install? would love to know all the steps and the footfalls you ran into.
as there hasnt been any other content creator to make this on the ND platform
Will do!
Look forward to this
You really want to go see the folks at Flyin Miata ..
Flying Miata has good knowledge & after market parts. Bought the axle back active exhaust ( Hush O Matic ) & really like it.
Wait until NE generation with fully electric motors and miata's "underpowered" story will end. If anything it will be a scary car to drive :D
Bought my 2018 Club with the thought to upgrade with turbo later. After a few months of driving I realized I loved her the way she was.
Would I use more power? Yes, but immediate response of the naturally aspirated engine, reliability under high revs, tolerance to abuse and 30-33 mpg is a treasure to keep!
If fully electric, power to weight ratio and effects on agility are a concern.
Also, spontaneous fires, longer winter charging times,
reduced cold weather driving range and
higher initial purchase price.
But… you’re right. “….scary car….”.
Especially 0 to 60 mph straight line times !
Done safely, much fun !
Zoom-Zoom…. 🫨🫨😳😃 !
@@ScottALaFollette This one was hillarious. 400HP even had very anime style cute turbo blow off valve sound :D th-cam.com/video/b79hTRFY90Y/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for sharing your MX-5/life experiences so the rest of us
can “contemplate our life choices” financially and otherwise. 🤔💭💡
Eloquently spoken and to the point.
🎯💪👍
Realistic Zoom-Zoom with aplomb !
BTW…. You have a new subscriber.
Four cylinder, conventual driveline is the right car for this day and age. Fuel, insurance, and everything costs makes V-8's (in most cases) are over the top.
they have made something like 5 different trans for this car. all iterations, they are still working on it
Helpful video. Thanks Vitale. When you bought your Miata in 2016 was it a base Sport Package model or Club package? You indicated that you changed to a rear slip-differential. Did you purchase a Miata came with a standard differential?
I bought the GT version, and that spec comes with an open diff from the factory. I installed a Fiat 124 Abarth LSD in the rear which matches the gear ratio of the NC Miata transmission which I installed in the car. Only the Club spec comes with a LSD from the factory which is unfortunate.
I'm glad I got the NC after watching this
Supercharger and fbo at 40k. Slight grind sometimes first to second. After act clutch. No grind. My transmission is good imo. My engine had 4th cylinder misfire 60 psi. Engine replaced 89600. Def need suspension. Tires. Swaybars. Brakes. Before boost.
Question for you - Where on your transmission sticker at 3:36 in your video does it state the version number?
Check out this Miata thread: forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=9094772&postcount=9326
fyi the fiat 124 had an NC transmission too for this exact reason! it i wonder if that flying miata plate is any different to the bell housing on that car
I'm turbo charging my 2016 MX-5 club. I have a ND2 transmission I'm putting in it. I know you tried that. Which flywheel did you have to use? I need a ND1 flywheel still, correct?
Amazing video 😄!
Just a feedback - next time the soundtrack in background could be a little more turned down so we can hear and understand you better 😃
Thanks for the feedback!
I couldn't imagine how awesome it is to have a turbo ND. lol My 2023 ND just has bolt on mods and it's already a fairly decent DD in terms of speed etc. I do like the 6 speed in these. lol
Hey, I noticed that you have gas struts for your hood. Was that mod a kit, or something you came up with. Can you share your source? Thanks so much.
Man I wish I could turbo my miata. I won’t even tune it because of the warranty 😢
The gearbox on my'23 1.5 failed at just 4000 miles. Gearboxes in NDs are very, very weak!
Oh, you modified the engine. I get it....
Thank you for convincing me to keep my ND Miata bone stock.
Can't wait to Renesis swap one of these. Should have one running by next spring.
Surely this was the subject of a factory recall .
Interestingly not, as the ND transmission works fine until you start sending any additional torque though the transmission. Sucks for people who want to modify their Miata.
I never knew Tim Pool was into Miatas.
Hi,regarging ND1 transmission...I have 2016 one and I found label M4 on the transmission...what does it mean?Thanks.Ales
It's probably one of the newer transmissions that may be very slightly better. Forgot a lot of that technical information but I know it can be found online
Insightful video, but wouldnt you do your research before turbocharging your car? Considering that its no secret anymore that 1st gen transmissions like to blow up, especially when giving it more torque than stock.
or get a Fiat 124 Spider. It comes from factory with a Turbo engine and the NC trans.
I am thinking to install a turbo in my RF ND2 2.0 181hp. Should i change the trasmission?
I dont know where you are located but in Europe a company called BBR recommand to swap ND gearbox with NC gearbox. Basically there is a plate provide to fit the NC gearbox on the ND skyactiv engine. Also you need to use a reinforced NC clutch if you want to boost your Miata. Friend of mine with an ND 1.5 BBR 210 kit broke is transmission 3000km after installing the kit, so if you keep the OE component your gearbox will have reliability issues soon or later.
@@floriandugoli5923 i am italian and i live in Rome. I own an ND2 RF 2.0 184hp. On my opinion the car is already great stock. I just installed a sporty air filter, a decent exhaust from ulter sport ( the central double exit ) and spacers for the wheels. I know bbr. I am considering to buy their turbo kit but still with huge doubts. Tge use i do of my miata is street. I think maybe spending at least 10000€ for such a work could bring some unespected issue that can at the end only ruin the driving pleasure.
@@lucianolucidi8624 Hello Luciano ! Im from France so we are neighbors :) You already have a nice setup, ND2 184 is a really good car ! I have a ND 1.5 with only a Cobalt exhaust and Bilstein B12 kit and there is a huge gap in term of performance, i think a ND2 184 can be appreciated without being modified too much. It is really up to you but considering the fact that you cannot push to much on the gearbox and on the internals, that will be a huge bill to make the car faster but not better. 10k€ will be the minimum bill even if you do some of the work yourself
@@floriandugoli5923 yess we are cousins 😉. I must agree with you the ND2 184hp its pretty much perfect. Recaro seats, biltein suspensions and the game has done. I love mine in his superb red mazda color. I think I will leave it like it is. We have a f..g great car bro. 💪 greatings from Rome.
@@lucianolucidi8624 Miata is always the answers no matter if it is stock or turbocharged ! ;) Enjoy your ND184 and keep it, this is the last moment of ICE engine. May be see you on the road ! That was great to talk with you mate 👍🏻
You don't a strut bar between suspensions towers? Why? Where in Europe all 2.0 have.
I believe the 2016 GT and Sport models did not come with strut bars from the factory. Only the club model received a strut bar.
Could you use a NC limited slip diff instead of the Fiat 124 one?
Since the Fiat 124 Abarth and NC Miata use the same manual transmission, I don't see why not!
This is exactly why you leave it alone. I mean just how fast do you want to push these cars anyway 🤷♂️. Mine is stock and I’ve had more than my fair share of speeding tickets in it. Mazda has refined and designed these cars no for over thirty years. Plus you’ll void any warranty for mucking around with it. Not to mention lower resale value.
It's not for everyone but it sure is worth it!
I recently blew up my 2nd transmission. Both where v1's -_- So im probably going the same route you did with the NC transmission. My Miata has the BBR super 200 pack and i love to take it to the nurburgring. unfortunately its starting to get an expensive hobby.
What happens if you dont change the differential?
Also good quality video, but the audio could use some work, maybe a lapel mic with windhood could help.
I would definitely recommend grabbing an NC Miata transmission if you can. It's been Super reliable for over 30k miles. The NC Miata transmission is geared differently compared to the ND, so if you do not change the diff, the gearing would be extremely impractical. I appreciate the advice.
@@Vitalewastaken Why not just got with the ND2 trans?
@@Vitalewastaken what final drive is your Abarth diff? And how is the driving characteristics now considering the new trans and diff combo?
I own a nd 2022 "miata" or MX5. Top reliable car. That is not a miata problem. If you have a car an want to be reliable, keep it stock or if you don’t, know what you’re doing. If you increase the power of the engine, you’ve got to do increase everything with the same proportion.
I agree its been a fantastically reliable car even with all of my modifications. Just wished they gave a bit more headroom on their ND transmissions.
First gear is for getting going, second gear takes you to 20 mph tops. Third gear is much stronger than lower gears. The root of the issue is wanting too much from first two gears.
The NC Miata transmission lets me go all the way in any gear I want! Been running strong for 30k miles.
I just got an issue only at the third gear it pops back out of the gear at the third
Hi so what about supercharger rather than turbo
More torque = hard on transmission.
Literally anyone could have predicted your transmission failure. Vehicles are designed as a unit and each part is engineered to be compatible with all other parts. You can't just push 80 lb-ft more torque into a transmission that wasn't designed to handle it.This should be obvious, but common sense isn't very common, I guess.
My 2016 Sport model has almost 93,000 miles, the transmission is doing fine. Of course the engine is stock and I drive like an adult. The only modification on my car is the Big Little Wilwood brake kit from Flyin'Miata. The stock rear calipers didn't like the salted New Hampshire roads I drive on. The Wilwoods do better, I hose them down once in a while in winter.
Hmmm... I work for a GM company and they have quite a few factory transmissions that can be boosted with no issues. Of course, someone has to be the guinea pig too find out what is too much.
@@drewdavenport3833 Of course there is 'some' extra capacity build in for reliability's sake, but trying to push it this far is just dumb.
I have an nd2, 2nd gear blew at 17k just driving normally from a red light. These are just poorly made trannys, the gears are really not as durable as the NC. Had it replaced under warranty, but now I have no faith in putting a supercharger with the stock nd tranny.
@@AntonioGomez-du3zi On the other hand, I have a 2016 with 93,000 miles on it and it is doing fine.
The way you hold the wheel tells a lot.
When you say “transmission”, I presume you mean “gear box”?
Mx5 nd are made for old guys that are cruising. Pushing this toy car will only get you to replace parts all the time
Them 10 and 12;000 HP top fuel dragsters are driven by old guys…..lol. Age doesn’t determine how you drive.