#10MinuteTalk
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2020
- Ian Klemm joins Jimmy and Mark for 10 minutes to blow some minds. Does barrel break-in even matter?? Conventional wisdom says “Yes” and perhaps there’s some truth to that, but Ian would argue it’s not nearly as important as the internet wants you to believe and that you don’t need to waste a ton of time/ammo to get your barrel ready to shoot extremely accurately - Even with hand-made custom barrels! Tune in to hear why and let us know your thoughts on barrel break-in, too. This one was in response to a ton of feedback on our full-length Barrels podcast with Ian, so keep those suggestions, questions and ideas coming! Best spot to throw them out is on Instagram by messaging @vortexnationpodcast
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In case your bosses care, I wasn't really looking at vortex optics at all, but after tuning in to these videos for a while I recently purchased a vortex. I have to say I'm thoroughly impressed, both with the optic and with your company for feeding our passion.
Try their range finders omg wow
I’ve been addicted to Vortex for several years now. The good folks there know how to take care of you. Awesome people. So much knowledge there. I’ll never purchase another brand of optics.
They have the absolute best customer service I have ever experienced. I own many rifle scopes, a spotting scope and binos from Vortex. Very happy with them all.
I put a small dent on one of my Vortex scopes. Totally my fault, Vortex replaced my scope free of charge. They had a quick turnaround time as well, not even two weeks. All my optic purchases are Vortex now.
Same just picked up a Strike Eagle.
He went from "I don't break in my barrels" to outlining exactly how he breaks in his barrels really quickly
It’s a Vortex Nation thing
I wouldn't call it " barrel break in ", but every new gun I get I " clean " the barrel before I shoot it the first time. I use Hoppe's # 9 and a patch, then a brush to get the oil and crud out of the barrel left over from manufacturing it before sending a bullet down it for the first time.
Love the 10 minute talk format. Good info with the fluff removed. 100% agree with the approach described with one exception that is not mentioned. I always brush clean the bore and swab/brush the chamber of a new barrel, as there is good chance that some machining residue/debris remains. At that point, I do a very low round count "break-in" similar to what is described. This process is done in 20 rounds or less with approximately 3 cleanings through those 20 shots. I suppose I do still loosely follow a prescribed process (5 ish then clean, 5 ish then clean, 10 ish then clean), but then I'm pretty much done. My experience also supports some round count until barrel speeds up 20-30 fps (about 50 - 80 shots down barrel). However, those 50-80 shots are not wasted. In most cases, I am re-barreling in a chamber I already have load data for, and I am validating the ballistics, seating depth and group performance of a known load in the new barrel. In any event, great video. Thank You Vortex Nation Podcast.
Ian is sharing master class level Barrel machining/internal ballistics Knowledge while the hosts are interrupting to ask basic barrel cleaning procedure questions so funny
Ian is a real good teacher! He’s knowledgeable and he explains very well! Thanks guys!
Yes really a good teacher. He starts off saying he doesn't break in his barrels then goes about saying how he breaks in his barrels. Wishy washy from the get go.
I thought his explanation of burnishing was good.
If an elaborate cleaning process were involved to make any rifle shoot MOA or better groups, then I think one should reconsider the manufacturer they have purchased their rifle from.
There's a bunch of different ways manufacturers of rifles and barrels achieve a bore with rifling, as well as different steels (not to mention plating). These methods achieve different kinds and finishes of bores. The break-in method wouldn't be the same for each bore type, potentially.
But in GENERAL, a rifle bore is like an engine cylinder wall and the bullet is like the piston rings. Better seal means more power exerted on said piston/bullet. Higher velocity, less blow-by, less muzzle affect before bullet leaves barrel, better accuracy.
My opinion is the most important thing to do with a new barrel is clean it before you shoot. Especially with a budget barrel. Inspect the barrel and make sure there are no metal shavings or remnants of the manufacturing process. Cheap barrels will require more care because there is less finish work done. That's part of what makes them cheaper.
Every rifle I have ever bought, they shoot at factory to test before they are sold to public. What amazes me is, they don't clean barrel before they are sold.
@@davidfornkahl8374unless you are buying custom or high end rifles not every rifle is shoot before it leaves the factory! Being a gun collector 60+ years and a reloader and hunter I have had a couple hundred rifles either the barrel was replaced to everything except the action was replaced and I have seen new barrels come with no shots fired and lots of grease or oil in them along metal shavings
@@edwardabrams4972ya i just got my 17 wsm havent shot it yet but i did run a brush and 3 or 4 patches through the barrel and i noticed the patches were coming out pretty dirty for brand new gun. Should i still break it in or just shoot 20 rounds out of and then give it another cleaning?
BEST video ever about barrel break-in. No bullshit or guessing. This guy gives you quick and easy to understand FACTS. BEST!
Excellent 10 minutes. Love Ian's explanation. Agree 100%.... Thanks Vortex
Thank God, someone is finally coming out and saying breaking in a barrel doesn't matter.
@Reel-Lentless john krieger said there is no need. Shilen said they only put a break-in procedure on their website because people kept asking about it; meaning they felt there is no need to do it.
My first build and want to take care of the barrel. You are the fourth I have listened to. WOW. Information overload was amazing. THANK YOU. I was lucky dumb with my first AR-10. Shot five and cleaned three times. Shot better than I thought a DPMS should shoot.
I agree.. Typically I've found if I clean the barrel for the first half dozen shots cleaning between each shot it has some benefit. I couldn't tell you about any accuracy increase(who could possible know) but I can tell you it will make cleaning in the future much easier. I've done this with several barrels of the same type make and model, that is the only reason I feel I can say this with any confidence, because in reality how could you truly know.. We can't go back in time and try the same barrel twice.
If you purchase a rifle that REQUIRES a break in to get MOA, what you purchased is an UNFINISHED rifle and you are doing the manufacturers work ....
That's about the most reasonable thing I've heard in a while.
What I do is just a process and I continue until I don't see any copper being stripped off indicated by the blue on the patch, most often 20 rounds. No barrel that I know of "requires" a break in, that being said over the last 50 years all my new firearms and rebarrels have been put through the "procedure". They clean easier, "seem" to group better and perform longer. The perfect example is one of my M1 Garands, it was a CMP rifle when I got it in the 70's and it shot great. I got a little over 2000 rounds through it before I put my first barrel on it while shooting National Match, should have done it sooner. I replaced it with a Danish GI replacement, broke it in as instructed by my fellow competitors and that barrel lasted over 4000 rounds before I saw accuracy fall off. The next barrel was a Criterion match barrel also broken in, it's approaching 3000 rounds and still going strong. I shoot in a lot of John C. Garand matches up and down the East Coast now that I'm retired and that rifle still holds 1 moa and cleans in no time, It will probably last me the rest of my life or at least my shooting career and as crazy as it seems I give the break in credit for the long life. I've seen barrels turned into crap in 1500-2000 rounds.
good point. it's like breaking in your new tires
Not at all. You, sir, do not understand design and manufacturing
Excellent information, thank you
I haven't been watching these 10 minute talks in order, but wanted to say I think they are great.
wait- theres an order?
A car is broken in after the first startup and heat cycle, like stated, rings do take a little bit longer to seat due to cylinders not being perfectly round, but that is done after only a few dyno pulls. All the information presented by you guys makes perfect sense
Not roundness. Rather microscopic bumps/ridges/peaks that shear, bringing the piston rings and cylinder walls into the closest marriage possible.
Generally, by the time you've finished shooting something like a 100 rounds or so doing load development, it'll already be "broken in" by then; assuming you're cleaning the barrel every time with a copper solvent, of course.
But lapped barrels typically don't need a "break in" period to smooth out machining/tooling, cutting burrs. But raw barrels with no lapping done will typically shoot like shit for the first few hundreds of rounds before the groups will tighten up. The short cut is to fire lap and polish the barrel with just 20 rounds from coarse to fine laboratory grade abrasives embedded on the bullet jackets.
I've been fire lapping problem barrels for the last two decades using the NECO fire lapping kit I've bought back in the 90's. And it has fix all my problem barrels except one, a K31, no matter what I do, it never shoots groups smaller than 2 MOA.
very well said! one of the best explanations of barrel break in I have every heard!
Glad you enjoyed, Scott :)
I recently had a new Shilen barrel put on a rifle. I asked them about barrel breakin. I was told it's a button rifled barrel and needs no break in. Krieger barrels also says the same thing. The only area which might possible need some type of smoothing is the chamber wherein the machine marks are across the direction of the bullet travel.
The fresh sharp rifling of a new barrel has microscopic jagged feathered-over edges.
As your first soft copper jacketed bullet travels down the bore, it acts to break off these tiny jagged edges and carry them down the barrel. Sorta hones the sharp edges.
Problem is, lots of these tiny hard steel particles have now become wedged in the rifling valleys. You want to brush and swab this hard steel “sandpaper” out before your next shot. Do this for your first dozen shots.
One might argue a cold hammer-forged bore doesn't have the same results, due to being hammered around a mandrel "negative" of the bore.
Thank you guys, this was exactly what I needed to know!
Great, my last request granted. Thank you guys...
🙂👍🇨🇦
Start out and clean good between 10 rounds, when the rifle cleans quickly with minimal effort she's good to go...they are all different...thats when it's "telling" you its done. Great podcast and explanation of what's happening in there👍🏻
I just went through a study on this and my findings were pretty much as follows. You do not need to break in a barrel that is cold hammer forged or button rifled. A barrel that has the rifling cut may need some time to remove some possible imperfections. In this case it is important to clean from breach to muzzle and never run a brush over the crown from muzzle to breach. The part of the barrel that might need some break in is the chamber wherein the machine marks are across the direction of bullet travel. This information comes from Kreiger barrel and Shilen barrel manufacturing.
That's brilliant information thank you 😊
Thank God. I hate the break-in process when I used to do it
Mr. Klemm dropping some knowledge bombs!
Ian...a very nice guest. He is spot on correct as well.
Great info!
Although breaking in a car engine is not really burnishing the pistons as the pistons don’t actually touch the cylinder walls. The piston rings do.
It’s to seat the rings to the cylinder walls so the surfaces have a good seal.
👍🏽
Right. These guys are idiots.
Yep. Takes adequate pressure to do that, pressure much higher than natural spring in the rings. Lower pressure (lower engine load, lower rpm) gradually followed by higher pressure (higher engine load, higher rpm). Heat cycles and oil changes early to aid in all the variance of metal expansion/changes/variations. Should about cover it.
I worked for Bill Wiseman for years. No need to break a barrel of that quality in. Chambering tool marks can come from chambering too fast and not keeping cutters clean. Feel free to come visit us at the next NRA Show. We will have barrels and cross section barrels there. I believe Krieger will tell you the same. Check his interview out that was done at NRA Show a few years ago.
Honestly idk if it matters but I did a break procedure on a new Mini14. The way i looked at it is u only get 1 chance and i don’t think it hurts anything.
Is this same process recommended for pistol barrels as well? Just kinda getting in to deep ballistics and best practices. I will be purchasing my first pistol, Glock 19, and have never purchased a new rifle so never even thought about a “break in”. Thanks for the info.
Im glad someone finally said a barrel doesnt need a break in procedure. Clean your gun when you get it, shoot it, clean it every so often and repeat. Not one study on earth exists that proves any benefit to any break in procedure
This guy's a freaking genius
“I don’t break in barrels”
Continues to describe his break in procedure
Long bearing surface bullets.
Fire one.
Copper solvent patch pushed slowly down bore from chamber to muzzle and out.
Wait 5 minutes.
Dry patch pushed through chamber to muzzle and out.
Repeat the above 5 times.
I would say, take along the handy dandy Garmin chronograph and monitor velocity. You might have to do the above process for 10 rounds to notice, maybe not.
Love this 10min talks. Very interesting, keep them coming!
Thanks for tuning in!
I have been doing this for a fair amount of time. I have built rifles with almost every brand barrel out there, for my own builds and ones that a customer ask for me to buy what I recommend I use either X-Caliber or Brux. Brux are the straightest, finest barrels in my opinion. I do a 15 shot break in procedure and the reason is to reduce copper failing. Shot one do a full cleaning with wet patching powder solvent, copper solvent (I use boretech brand everything) synthetic brushing' dry patching, oil a patch ending with dry patching. That first shot u will pull so much copper out it will amaze u. Next shoot 2 then full clean. Next shoot 3 then full clean. Next shoot 4 then full clean. By now u will notice less copper fouling indicated by blue patches being swabbed out. Next shoot 5 and full clean and u will notice very little blue patches if any. This is 15shots and rifles come in here constantly that foul after 5 or 6 shots loosing accuracy after unless u clean them because this was not done. This is only my opinion thru my experience and my procedure was directed to me from a barrel manufacture I use and everyone has heard of so I'm pretty sure they know what there talking about. One more peice of advice, never use sweets or any ammonia based solvent people this accomplished should kno better than that by now. There are good solvents that are non ammonia based that work 3xbetter and faster than sweets like boretech CU2, butches bore shine, or proshot copper solvent IV
Uhh. Butch’s contains ammonia. Theres nothing wrong with ammonia-based cleaners if you follow the directions
Uhh, im looking at a bottle of butches in my shop and nowhere under ingredients or on the bottle does it say amonnia or sny substitute for it. Couldnt see Butch Fisher promoting anything in his time that would either
@@user-un5my5bw4j per Lyman’s MSDS, “Contains: 1,4-Diethylbenzene, Ammonium Hydroxide, Cumene, Napthalene, Calcium Sulfonate”
@@user-un5my5bw4j www.lymanproducts.com/media/user/file/0/2/02937_02940_02941_02953_02983_02985_02987_butch_s_bore_shine_reach_sds_rev_1_1.pdf
Have have used sweets for over 30 years. I have never experienced any issues with it. Follow the instructions and you wont experience any issues.
“I don’t see the need to break in a barrel”
Then proceeds to talk for the next 9 1/2 minutes about how to break in a barrel
Yes but saying you dont need to go shoot 120 rounds at once or right away to "break in"
Exactly
That's good , Lol !
Qualifies the shock statement later. But with today's stupidly short attention span...... I bet your comment was typed out early in the video.
Yep totally agree
What about precision rifles such as Weatherby Mark V Deluxe chambered in .300 Mag?
I’ve owns close to 100 rifles throughout the years. I consider it a break in period NOT a break in procedure. Usually after three trips to the range I noticed an improvement in accuracy. 20 to 40 rounds go home clean the barrel like you discussed. Most barrels are damaged by improper cleaning or shooting without letting you barrel cool down. High heat causes steel to expand reducing barrel life.
I agree 100 percent. I bought a model seven Rem. 6 months before the bankrupt. I also have one from 2000, maybe 1999 I’m not sure, Both guns were grouping at 3 inches at best. After 2 years I saw tighter groups, but not what I wanted. After the 3rd season I was shooting half inch at 2 hundred yards. Now this was with a .260 Rem. The other gun is a .308. Model seven, exactly the same. It’s shooting about 1 inch . I think a few more rounds and it will be 1/2 too. Take your time, don’t rush it. My view anyway.
Interesting. So at 9.52 to 10.04 he says “don’t want to do 3 shots and clean or 5 shots and clean because it’ll only burnish well if it’s bare steel on bare copper” so he basically contradicts himself and agrees cleaning will infact improve the burnishing interface for those first few shots.
I agree it is an overstated process and clearly burnishing is going to happen whether you shoot and clean or just shoot. Both sides of coin have been bashed over the years so choose your retail consumerism and get to your smoothened and polished (better lapped, whatever the language should be) barrel.
As an engineer, this was funny to watch Ian K. steamroll them immediately with information. I often lose people from the shooting community n conversation when I go into this much detail. Someone had to say it!
❤
This is too much technical detail? Shit, I think all that lead is starting to get to us.
If everyone would delete their social media apps and turn off the TV for a month, read a couple books, they'd soon find out their attention span holding on to things much longer.
high-level conversations ... sub 👍
What if you shoot the first few rounds with Meguiars polishing mirror finish rub on them?
He says” I don’t break my barrels in”, then proceeds to explain the burnishing process and how he uses a long bearing surface bullet to break his barrel in, LOL! I’ve studied barrel behaviour for over 35 years, every barrel takes a certain amount of rounds down the pipe to obtain maximum velocity. I have seen a stainless Tikka T3 barrel take around 125 rounds till it settled at max velocity, almost 125 fps faster than brand new virgin barrel. I have also seen most Browning standard barrels go 75-100 rounds. Take it for what you want, but the chronograph don’t lie, and this is all with my standard handloads for 7mm Rem mag. 125fps makes a pretty good change on your P.O.I. at 500+ yards. Thanks for the discussion!
Is this still applicable to cold hammer forged barrels?
Do proofed barrels need breaking in since there were fired at the factory?
No, not on a standard production barrel. On a custom barrel, maybe.
I called Remington, Browning/Winchester, Ruger, Weatherby, Mossberg tech support a several months ago. They all told me barrel break in is a myth and a waste of time.
Called Remington, huh?
@@fluxcapacitor05 Fixed it.
Custom barrel makers will tell you it's a load of shit too.
Myth? No. Just not worth the manufacturer's time to waste hours, days, weeks telling customers heavy details about metallic surface and metallurgy science to achieve LITERALLY THOUSANDS of contradictory results, many of those results too small to measure with any certainty, and then have to explain that to everyone in the firearms community as well.
They have their time, money, and liability to think about. It's easier to tell people to just shoot their guns without thinking about such things.
Let’s say someone buys a new rifle, shots 20-30 rounds through it, what should that first clean include or look like? What solvents should be used?? How many passes?? Asking for a friend
Confused. Fire a round. Run a wet patch of copper solvent through the barrel. Wait 3 minutes. Then, run a clean dry patch and will see blue residue. Fire another round.
Repeat the cleaning/firing process until there is NO blue on a clean patch run?
That’s my understanding of what he said, and I saw another video from another guy that said he “doesn’t break in” his barrels, described a very similar process. As well as a midway USA video describing another slightly different, but still pretty similar, minimal (apparently) type of break in process.
I never break my battles in and I clean them often with solvent patches and brushes. Rifling is rifling . Got brush that copper out
First 30 seconds says don’t break in barrel...next 10 min explains how and why you need to break in barrel
He's referring to the meticulous fuddlore process of breaking in the barrel. What he's saying is you only need to do it for a couple shots, not this nonsense "first 100 shots, clean, and belly rub" bullshit boomers like to convey.
I thought the same thing. I don't break in a barrel but what I do is shoot a round then use a copper stripper.. Oh I guess I do break in barrels.
You weren’t paying attention. He”s saying that everyone breaks in a barrel inevitably as they shoot it. It’s something that just happens naturally as you shoot it. It’s really just a matter of how few shots you want to put down range before you reach break in. The idea of a particular “best break in method” is sorta silly when you think about it. Consider all the variations in barrel steel that have been used over the decades, the different manufacturing techniques, the different jacket alloys, not to mention different bore diameters, velocities and pressures among all the various calibers. But yet there was one “best” way to break in a barrel? It’s laughable, really. Yet everyone has seen their method work and swears by it. Of course it worked. They all do. Because they all involve shooting which just naturally smooths out the bore imperfections.
Ahhh lapping a barrel how to beat CSI ! Thanks !
To be clear, was Ian recommending cleaning after every shot until patches are clean? By the way, I like your program topics. Great job!
I’m wondering the same thing. I wish they didn’t interrupt him so much.
I have gone through a break in procedure on all the new rifles I've ever bought but it's relatively simple. First 3-4 rounds clean between between each shot with a good copper solvent then 3, 5 shot strings cleaning between each string. 20 rounds. I've done this on not only my rifles but many others for friends and family and all have shot fantastically. My son just bought a SIG Cross in 6.5 Creedmoor and there were very specific procedures for breaking or shooting in the barrel included, that rifle shoots to 1 moa - 3/4 moa. It might not be necessary but personally I'll play it safe.
So basically superstition 😉
@@redrock425 Not really. I get your point but with modern rifles and machining processes the average modern rifle will maintain great hunting accuracy without a break-in BUT that can be improved with one. Any of your competitive shooters break-in a new barrel and many custom barrel makers ship instruction's on how they do it with a new tube. I'll defer to the experts.
Nice video, nice tos ay hat some factories like Tikka/Sako or Bergara do it for you :) No need for barrel break.in coz they are in a way "use tested" before you buy them.
Read where you shoot five rounds and run a bore cleaner after each shot, then five more afterwhich you clean after the five, then ten, then twenty five and finally fifty.
My Russian AK says "nyet," barrel is fine, just shoot it....."I'm listening to my rifle."
Sounds like good information. I have some questions for though. Ian made a comment "bare steal on bare copper". I know a guy with an S&W M&P 10 6.5 and we cleaned it to get the factory stuff off the metal parts and then oiled everything with a good premium oil. My question is when you say bare metal ate you saying it would be better to not have any coat of oil in the barrel? Or is it still good to have a coat of good oil down the barrel?
The coat of oil definitely isn't necessary.
If you shoot all the time on weekends no need to oil. If you only sight in and shoot a deer then let rifle sit for 11 momths out of the year, then oil the barrel.
i have a IBI barrel and was never told to break in the barrel other than cleaning it, then shoot it
Funny how Ian flatly states that he does not break in barrels, but then at 6:45 begins going through the details of how he actually breaks in his barrels! LOL! I get that everyone has a different way of defining barrel break in is different but what he is describing can only be called 'barrel break in'. Then, at the 8:00 mark actually uses the phrase to state that the barrel will tell you when its done breaking in.
Kinda funny.
For a production barrel would I use 15-20 rounds and clean between each one?
Correct! As Ian mentions, you're only going to burnish the barrel if it's bare steel, so shoot a round, run a patch soaked in solvent down the barrel, wait 3 minutes to let it take effect, run a clean patch down and repeat the process until the clean patch comes out still clean (Or at least minus the blue color Ian mentions).
Thank you so much for a speedy reply. Yall do a lot for the firearms community and for that I say thank you. Keep up the fine work.
I broke in mine according to the manual. Who knows if it makes a difference but if anything were to go wrong for warranty if they ask me I did what it says. 10 single shots 5 minutes between them cleaning the bore each time then fire 2 shots 5 times so 10 total cleaning the bore each time 5 minutes in between
For some reason I believe this guy.
What's the solvent they use on the patches to clean the barrel after every shot?
A quality copper solvent.
Would be nice to make this Podcast again with Ryan to know his opinion about this Topic.
NOW you tell me, after I do the 50 round break-in on my CA556! It will shoot sub MOA though. Now I just need you guys to make some more Gen 3 Razor 1-10's so I can take my old Strike Eagle off it and give it the AWESOME glass it's begging for.
Just picked up one of them in the bronze colorway, amazing trigger on that rifle, I'm looking at the MPR in 6.5 creed next. Happy shootin!
Kruger? Barrels owner said about the same….. shoot clean shoot clean say 3-4 times then clean your barrel when your groups open up
New to guns. Got my first AR and shot 100 rounds before cleaning it. Took it again to zero in my iron sights and shot another 60 rounds. Diamondback DB15YB is what I bought. Hope it lasts
DB15s are good. Haven't seen any problems with them. American made too, so that's a plus
I just got a diamondback AR too, anything to report about it?
@@HAV0X_ Have shot 485 rounds (and counting) and have had no issues with the gun itself. I had my little brother shoot it the other weekend and he caused a double feed so user error on that “jam.” Other than that it’s been able to shoot cheap steal Tula ammo and typical brass.
I changed the stock cause the one it came with seem to rattle more than I liked it to. My mother in law got the exact one and hers came with a black buffer weight and mine was silver and came with some scuff marks on mine but not hers. Not sure if the color means they’re made of different materials but there’s something there to note I guess. Both guns were brand new, purchased through sportmans warehouse.
The end plate in the buffer tube for mine was ambidextrous and hers wasn’t. Other than the rattling stock and cheap plastic feel to both the stock and the grip, I like it. The scuff marks in the buffer weight concerned me at first cause it seemed to be caused by the BCG and it still concerns me a bit.
Paid around $630 OTD. Weighing at around 8.8 lb with the attachments it has. Been super fun to shoot and I want to take a class for carbine. Already taken a pistol class with field craft survival now just saving up money for their carbine class.
@@raftika1 wow, sounds great! i hope everything stays well on yours and mine. good work on getting some classes, you're doing better than i am!
@@HAV0X_ thank you 🙏 if you live in the USA make sure you write your representatives opposing HR 127. Subscribe to Firearm Policy Coalition to stay up to date
Doesnt the manufacturer shot rounds out of every gun before they sell it? If so then its probably already broken in. The only thing id do is give it a quick cleaning a couple of passes with a patch and some cleaning oil before i shoot it for the first time.
I do not break in barrel as such, it leans more toward making the barrel to be easier cleaned. Last rifle was my Remington 700 in 260 Remington. Took four rounds. After first shot, spent almost three hours using copper solvent, brass brush, and patches. After fourth round, less than five minutes.
Says he doesn’t break in the barrel, then proceeds to describe himself breaking in his barrel.
Short attention span much? He qualifies the statement later.
Can I be on your podcast
“I don’t break in my barrels!” What I do is get a long baring bullet, go to the range, maybe 10 rounds. I shoot 1 round clean that copper out….
That’s called a break-in procedure!
No, it doesn’t matter. I just shot a .3 moa group this afternoon with a brand new barrel after merely running a couple of patches through the night before.
I just shoot 100 rounds through it then clean it really well then 20-30 rounds and pull a snake through it and I'm done and that's bolt and ar15-10 rifles. And the first 100 I get it a little hot and zero it as well the 20-30 is just after I clean it to get some copper and such down it then I pulpy a snake through 1-2 times and store it or do whatever it works
I have never seen high quality hand lapped a barrel "break in" in 10 shots. Bartlien, Proof, Blake, Rock Creek, ect all speed up by up to 100+ fps ove the course of about 75-150 rounds before the velocity stabalizes. Whether you need to clean between every X or Y amount of rounds isnt that important IMO. I also try keeping the barreI from getting too hot or shooting high pressure loads to maintain its life and accuracy.
Reel-Lentless plenty of reasons... brass life, barrel life, load consistency, avoiding load development. The difference between a hot load and a mild load in my 6GT is about 100-150fps. If you think that is going to make you a better shooter, well then have at it. Top shooters in the country are shooting mild loads, they just can read the wind better. With primers being in such short supply, I prefer to not have to “chase” hot loads as the throat of my barrel erodes quickly. I also prefer not to have to buy a new barrel more frequently and have to deal with break in and load development, especially now with component shortages. If I have the choice of running X cartridge hot to get my desired velocity, or running Y cartridge in a milder load to get the same velocity, I’m going to take the more mild load which will probably also be more consistent. And that is why you down load it. My 6GT performs the same on a mild load as a 6BR on a hot load, and I’m well over 2K rounds on my GT with not much throat erosion, and getting 10+ firings on Hornady brass. Not to mention, take a hot load to a match when it is raining or really hot out. Blown primers and heavy bolt lift isn’t fun. Mild loads don’t have that problem, which matters when you are traveling to shoot.
@Reel-Lentless I am talking about target shooting. If you are shooting a rifle for terminal ballistics, then all of that goes out the window. I compete shooting steel mostly with high round count matches. It doesnt matter how much energy the bullet has. Consistency matters more. I also probably shoot exponentially more rounds than someone with a hunting rifle or ELR rifle. I would push the bullets harder in that case too, just because the round count isn't going to be that high or I would want to deliver as much energy as possible when hunting. I'm shooting a barrel out in 3-4 months.
This. Cleaning the copper out is just returning the barrel to a condition where it can more easily be burnished. It doesn’t really matter how often you clean it in terms of what eventually happens. It’s just a matter of how many rounds it takes to reach that stabilized/broken in condition. More frequent cleaning means it gets the barrel to stabilize that much sooner. But we’re talking about a difference in, say, a few dozen rounds. Considering the service life of the barrel, that’s nothing.
When I had my Suzuki gsx-r1100 engine built I had to break it in.Dont get it too hot,don't run it too hard,vary the rpms ect.When I got my car engine built same rules.Now days cars engines are broke in at the factory.I consider my AR barrels broke in when I purchase them.But they're Colt military barrels not boutique barrels.
I de-copper and clean my barrels once a year whether they need it or not.
Cars are usually 5-10k miles to brake in right?
Do NOT try hand lapping a barrel unless you are both knowledgeable and experienced in the process. It is very easy to do more harm than good.
Nightforce scopes in the background??
Uuuhh... Nope - A Razor 5-20 and a couple Viper's with display stickers on them.
Nowhere in the Tikka’s manual it is stated to break in the barrel.
Only to maintain your firearm regularly…..
#BarrelWhisperer = listen to the barrel 🇺🇲☠️
Never broke in any of my barrels. I shoot and clean my barrels well but as far as a break in procedure I don’t bother. I don’t shoot matches or anything like that but For hunting I don’t have the money or time to sit there and break in barrels
30 minutes and a few cleaning patches? That's not much time to sit around.
@@exothermal.sprocket I work 6 days a week 10hrs a day most days. I have 2 kids and a wife at home. I’m not going to the range to shoot 50 rounds and clean 5-10 times. I’ll clean my rifle for the first few shots then go from there. I hunt medium to large game. I’m not worried about shooting barrels out or anything like that. Plus the one rifle I did do a break in on was a 300 PRC and it was over a period of about 1 year the guns only had 100 or so rounds through it. Why waste 50 rounds when you can be hunting with those. Plus they are almost $60 a box
@@EasternMountainHunters It wasn't obvious by your comment that you've got that kind of home life. Also, the video detailed about a 5-shot process, that's it. Most of the time is just sitting 5 minutes waiting for copper solvent to soak.
@@exothermal.sprocket that’s why I don’t break barrels in. First off moneys not super tight but I can’t spend that much on ammo but yes for the first 5-10 shots I’ll clean my barrels. I don’t do the full break in process like most folks talk about doing. Just never had an issue of shooting my rifles and cleaning them well it’s always worked well but I’m not a high round count person. I shoot maybe 100-200 rounds a year. Between reloading tests and hunting.
@@EasternMountainHunters Wasn't suggesting to do the "full break in process". I thought the video was a rebuttal to that nonsense mostly.
I'm pretty sure that about barrel break in, it depends on the barrel. I have 2 match barrels (wont tell the brand) that had flyers before 500 rounds, these flyers disappeared after that. I didn't do any barrel break in on these, but maybe I should have. As he said if the barrel is hand lapped maybe that's unnecessary
What’s the point in sharing your experience if you don’t mention the brand? I never understood why people “won’t say the brand”. That’s the most important piece of information.
I've picked up every gun ive owned from the box and shot it..cleaned after everytime I shoot..no problems whatsoever
30 round mag dump for a Ar is perfect break in
I like disc brake cleaner.
Barrel manufacturers could solve this argument once and for all by selling pre-broke-in barrels. The only problem is, would that be used?
I just shoot 100 rounds through it then clean it really well then 20-30 rounds and pull a snake through it and I'm done and that's bolt and ar15-10 rifles
I built a gun once. Shoots .5 moa. It was expensive. Bought a savage once too. It shoots half moa. Now idk why I built one.
Soo factory barrels, after 10-20 rounds just take the rifle home and give the bore a cleaning to remove copper fouling? And call it good?
Breaking in a barrel.......unreal. Shoot the rifle..clean it occasionally and go hunting. It's crazy
Someone could make a lot of money if they designed burnishing bullets.
No thanks. No caustic solvents coming any where near my barrel, ever. No, no, no.
Iron and copper don't have the same reactivity. They don't have the same number of valence electrons. I think he knows what he's talking about.
You want to break in your barrel...buy some ammo load it shoot it done.take it home clean it. oil it. repeat.
Church
My bergara b14 hmr manual is stating no braking in barel need to be done those guys in Spain are shooting and testing barels then stamp before thay live country guess is mandated by gov.
Mine does.....just bought it. 11/21