Absolutely fascinating. As a new rifle shooter, so much of your channel goes over my head, BUT I can appreciate the reason for your meticulous attention to detail. I'm learning a great deal from your channel that will, I hope, serve me well in the future. Seasons Greetings to You and Yours and Many Thanks from the UK.
I've seen several videos of barrel installation/swaps on TH-cam, and have changed two Savages, based on what I learned. Is the issue demonetization--or they just wont let you show it, because those videos that I used are still on TH-cam?
As an F-class shooter, what you are doing makes perfect sense to me. On an F-class barrel I could see myself going about this the same way you did. On any other rifle, I load, shoot, clean when I'm done.
You say that a given load in a fresh barrel will produce less pressure than in a worn barrel. Curious as to why that would be.. one would think a worn barrel would provide less friction, therefore less pressure.
Just wanted to say THANK YOU for all your videos. I’ve been watching for quite some time and understand the time it takes to make the videos you do. It is much appreciated in our community, keep up the great work and shooting!
Excellent video! Thank you. 2 questions... How do you get that JB paste out of the throat/chamber area? Also, with regards to damage and barrel wear, how hot can you get a barrel (how fast can you safely shoot)? I've heard not to heat the barrel hotter than you can touch, and that's about 5 back-to-back rounds for my rifle so 50+ rounds takes a lot longer than I'd like even with a barrel cooler.
Flush the bore paste out by a few wet patches, followed by a couple of patches of isopropyl alcohol which absorbs any residual moisture left in the barrel
I was trying to limit my sessions to about 20-30 rounds. I'm just an average joe who shoots decently, but no competition shooter by any means. I am curious about the pace you shoot as you mentioned. How fast are you shooting at a match, so I can mimic that for my own process. My 6ARC now has about 200 rounds through it, with no more than 40 in one session, with5 or 10 shot strings, in cooler (50's) weather. For me, this is a fine shooting rifle and an easy to shoot cartridge for longer shooting sessions.
Man is a lot to learn from you and thanks! From primers seating to good quality barrels, the primer seating deep change for me a hole game from a bad group to good group with a good reputable brass, know I understand why seating deep play a role in reloading at last for me in my tikka !👍🏼
Thanks for the excellent video! What I am wondering about is, how do you know when the barrel is ready for load development? Is this achieved, when the V0 doesn't change anymore?
There is no scientific evidence that breaking in a barrel makes any difference at all. Even the barrel OEMs will tell you they only provide break in procedures because customers expect it.
HI. I've just encountered this channel and I must say this is simply insane. The level of details is crazy. But I love it. May I ask you a question? I am looking at your bullet seating procedure: th-cam.com/video/tOUK_zHt4hQ/w-d-xo.html Do you verify the concentricity of the seated bulled in relation to the case? Thanks!
I’ve been watching your videos and enjoy them.. in this video I was impressed with your velocity.. your SD had to be ridiculously low.. have you done a video on SD?
As Always great video thanks for posting!!! TH-cam is not being honest with you. There are plenty of videos showing changing barrels and literally every aspect of assembly, disassembly and building a rifle.
You can ruin any barrel using an abrasive if you overuse it. You are decreasing the life of the barrel if you use it at all. Not much if you don't overdo it. But as you see what you can do if you overuse it like you previously did. I will bet you dollars to donuts that the paste you used is the same as using JB Bore Paste. They are just different manufacturers of a product that works the same and most likely the formula is so much the same it makes little difference as to which one you use. They are abrasives only with no chemical difference that could make a difference.
I find your videos very informative , thank you for sharing your knowledge , was wondering about the scrubbing of the barrel ? I always thought going from action to muzzle is the way to go ?
Back and forth after removing the carbon is what is done when scrubbing. Other than that, you are pushing a patch. The only way you don't scrub like that is with the Otis method of running either a brush or patch one way only with a coated cable that goes through the barrel and to the action putting a patch or brush on the end and pulling it from the action back out through the barrel in one direction only. Most all competition shooters use a rod from the breach or action.
well I drive 3 hours to a gunsmith(dropped off a savage 11 barrel thread need cut and re crowned ok) I was on vacation 50 miles away phone alert check trees fell in my home area oh great the phone rings at home it the gunsmith, you really want this iffy barrel back on it why it not right the chamber & stuff why it off i got a savage axis take off 6.5 creedmore let dig around i be down Tuesday put it finish rifle i bring it home check other barrel & i gave him old stuff i had for savage110 here i had 300wsm & threading answers! i need proper work and proper answers! I wanted to use stuff i have with injury & hunt!
Correct. Just be cognizant of the potential increase in pressure and velocity as you work your way through the first 200-300 rounds of the barrel's life.
Could you share the make and model of your front rest and rear support? Also, for your Labradar, are you using an external triggering device to be able to mount it like that? Thanks in advance!
Seb Mini-X. Seb Bigfoot or Edgewood Gator, depending on which stock. The new stock has a narrower keel, so I'm making due while I work on selecting he right bag for it.
You made a comment about velocity in a new barrel and chamber pressure going up as the barrel wears in. I think you have that backwards, the velocity is slow due to higher friction which in turn would mean the chamber is probably HIGHER in pressure trying to get that bullet down the tight chamber. At least that’s what the right side of my brain is telling me. PLEASE dont think this is a criticism, I am just as likely to be missing something trivial. I look at it this way, same powder charge and same expanding gasses but they are trapped for longer which means higher pressure. Oh and yes commenting on a 2 year old video, but I do like your stuff 😊
Barrel break in is a relatively new phenomenon. Buy new rifle, shoot it while sighting it in...20 shots or so and then clean as usual and scrub with a bronze bore brush. After 5 shooting sessions (or so) barrel is now broken in. No mystery, the same as you've always done. After all, you're going to be hunting and not trying to put 5 bullets in the same hole.
@@winninginthewind Watch the benchmark for speeding up after around 300 rounds, i had one speed up so much i thought the chrono went wonky and bought another that confirmed 300 fps more, i was astounded this was even possible
There's actually quite a few 284 shooters in Australia running the 284 on the slow side and achieving great accuracy at 2730-2740fps Keith - wouldn't discount that from your testing.
It really irritates me ,to say the least, that youtube sensors anyone however, as an American, How they get away with violating our rights, IS BEYOND ME!!! WE NEED ANOTHER PLATFORM THAT DOES NOT SENSOR NOR VIOLATE ANY OF OUR RIGHTS!!!
Marxists in this country with power have turned freedom OF speech into freedom FROM speech they dont approve of . I hope the day comes when they pay dearly for this violation of our rights . I prefer freedom over censorship.
TH-cam is a for profit company that provides a service to the public that are willing to abide by THEIR guidelines. TH-cam is not the press, it is not an election platform, it is not an area that one can say or do anything they want. It is a service provider. Think of it as a restaurant with a no shoes, no shirt, no service policy.
It's crazy that youtube wont let you show some of the processes. You can watch people die on youtube but how much powder you measure can somehow cause irreparable damage???
Could you share who is your gun smith? I also live in Wa and I would like to have my rifles built by a smith that’s talented enough for you to trust to build you match winning rifles. I live in Central Wa. and the smiths around here have mixed reviews.
Just discovered your channel today. Good information. Your trouble with TH-cam seems to be a common experience with shooting sports content. So why don't we migrate to more friendly venues such as Rumble? Just curious. I visited the Cascade training center on one occasion, but it is quite a drive for me. Do most of my shooting at Upper Nisqually Sportsmans Club.
No offence, but you seem very concerned about youtube rules and wanting to follow them, yet they can literally make rules on the fly. That can make a rule tomorrow saying you can't show, fire, handle, and even say the word "gun"...then what? This video would get you banned, you would get a strike. So glad you didn't show that barrel install lol.
I hear you, and understand your position. My strategy is intended to allow me to put out more good content instead of getting my channel deleted. There are things I'm not allowed to show here. I'll work around those restrictions to the extent I can, but I want to be able to keep making content for the community...
Depends. I would say for you it is true. For those who disagree and do it it's not. I used to break in all of my rifles and at the time it was worth the time. Now I don't go through a procedure because the rifle does get broken in after so many rounds anyway. But you will not be able to reload bullets that will shoot the same for a long time until that barrel has been broken in through a process or just shooting it a number of rounds. Of course, that has to do with decent groups. If one is happy enough with larger groups or will not shoot their rifle much and only zero it and use it for hunting, you are spot on.
Question, when you were cleaning your barrel, I noticed you were doing in and out or back and fort motions. Some said you suppose to scrub it outwards or towards the end of the barrel so any or all debri goes to the ground. So, which is the correct way to clean it? or does not make any difference?
I asked the same question. Technically if he is scrubbing in both directions it might not be that big a deal. I have to say when cleaning my barrels I can’t stand taking off the brush to pull out the rod. It adds so much time to the cleaning process and I feel like I’m not getting a good cleaning.
I noticed that when you were cleaning between shots you didn’t take the brush off. You just pulled it back and forth in your opinion is it really that big a deal to ONLY push the cleaning brush in 1 direction.
Sorry for the year-old comment, I just discovered this channel. The thing that I heard was that he’s using a worn brush for this scrubbing, so maybe direction doesn’t matter? The brush would be loose-ish in the bore, unlike a new one.
You where talking about resonance, a few videos back. O n a metal barrel. I would be curious if a large triple or four Grove pattern in the outside. Spirreling would stop this I get my idea from a bunker manufacturer. Who said very large culverts are good for quiet bunkers. They don't echo. And large culverts are made out of grooved then rolled steel. It's a strange idea .
Great video with a lot of good points. I think it is absolutely essential to borescope a barrel and have the comparison of good and bad (full of burr marks) barrels even with regular hunting barrels. I had to lead lap a barrel that was full of tool marks and got it to improve from 4 MOA to 1 MOA in the end. 1-2 MOA is good enough for most hunting settings but not for precision shooting and competitions. Barrels from renown top producers do not give you such a headache and one should not lap or fire-lap an excellent barrel but if, as in my case you have a terrible performer, there is certainly not much to loose. Again bore scoping before even buying a gun is the way to go.
I have a bore scope and when you have one and it's magnified even a good barrel can look bad. If you noticed his match barrel didn't look all that well with the burrs before he JB bore pasted it. Every rifle you buy is fire tested at the factory and they don't clean them. Just saying that is my experience. I was amazed at how bad a lot of my rifles looked in that borescope that shot great. Of course, that is just my experience.
I've never really noticed a difference between the group I shoot after sight in and a group after 30-60 rounds later... I've heard of some insane break in procedures from some people but honestly I'm all about keeping it simple and knowing I'm only doing it to smooth things out any imperfections or burrs. When I build or buy a new gun I always run a few patched with Hoppe's on it to get all the crap that might be left behind from when it was made then I run a few patches with 99% isopropyl alcohol to get all of the oils out of the barrel. Once I go to my shooting bench I clean to bare metal after 5 shots, I shoot a few more groups then I clean again down to bare metal, then if I don't shoot anymore I consider the barrel broken in or I'll shoot for a little while longer and clean down to bare metal when I quit for the day. Again I've never noticed a difference but that's what I was taught to do growing up and been doing it all my life and I also don't see a reason to not do it. Great video man I just subbed!!!
We all have a tendency to do what we have been taught especially if it seems to have worked for us. I myself hate cleaning rifles and used to do as you do because a friend of mine taught me that is a bench shooter. There have been testing and many shooters have finally come to the conclusions you heard in this video. The rifle will be broken in just shooting it. Many rifles shoot better fouled. Most competition shooters don't clean for a large number of rounds through their rifles and do not clean until it effects the accuracy. It is always a good idea to do what works best for you. It isn't necessary to clean to the bare metal, however. It certainly does not hurt for copper to be in pits in the barrel. If you need to use harsh chemicals to get all the copper out it could be in fact doing more harm than good like reducing barrel life. Just my opinion. As the man said do what you feel is best for you.
What you really meant to say is a break in procedure is not necessary. And he actually said that in his undertones. He gave everyone the procedure he uses and why. But all barrels are broken in as we shoot them and there is truth to the velocity changes after the barrel has been broken in with a procedure or just from shooting it without a procedure. The number of shots most people reference is somewhere around 150 rounds. If one is a precision shooter and they do break a barrel in, they are using their break in to get a feel for the rifle as well as fire form cases for that rifle only. I used to go through a procedure of break in to smooth the bore out and it did make for easier cleaning while fire forming brass. I don't do that anymore and just go about it a bit slower, but it still takes a number of bullets through the bore before the rifle will be stable enough to make a load that will be lasting. With some procedures you know that the rifle is broken in with about 100 rounds. 50 rounds less than no break in procedure. At least with the procedure that I used when breaking my rifles in.
Correct. I don't worry too much about it normally. In most cases, I can use that life for something valuable. Practice, local matches (practice), or to do some science experiments...
My barrels last easily over 4k rounds. But i dont need quarter inch or even half inch groups for my sport! 3/4 minute will do just fine! ( the sport is rifle silhouette)👍😃
Question. Wouldn't the pressures be higher in a new barrel, with the tighter tolerances, and the bore not being "polished" due to the projectile taking out any imperfections? Thx
Yeah right, but I guess you're also not winning many matches. I don't do break-ins either except to cite in the rifle. And when I do a group for accuracy, it's 20 rounds. My first Centerfire rifle, I owned it for 5 years and fired 320 round groups into a hole that was .049 of an inch Center to Center spread all three times
@@44hawk28 sorry you aren't very educated on the subject. Why do you shoot a fowling shot before you start? To replace what you removed!!. I will do what you do with your best rifle with my handcanon.
As a 1000yd benchrest shooter I break in every Brux and Kreiger I put on every rifle i build with 15 shots. 1 shot do full cleaning, 2 shots clean, 3 shots clean, 4 shots clean, 5 shots clean. This is to keep the barrel from copper fouling quickly. Alot of times after that first shot a lot of copper comes out like 50 shots were fired. By the time you get to the last 5 shots and clean no blue will come out or very little. After those 15 break in shots i go right in to tuning and my two 1000yd benchrifles and every rifle i build shoot lights out.
Absolutely fascinating. As a new rifle shooter, so much of your channel goes over my head, BUT I can appreciate the reason for your meticulous attention to detail. I'm learning a great deal from your channel that will, I hope, serve me well in the future. Seasons Greetings to You and Yours and Many Thanks from the UK.
Really enjoying the videos.
50-100 strokes on just the first few inches.
You and me both brother
If you hate rain, but LOVE wind.....come to Wyoming, lol
Ty
I've seen several videos of barrel installation/swaps on TH-cam, and have changed two Savages, based on what I learned. Is the issue demonetization--or they just wont let you show it, because those videos that I used are still on TH-cam?
I'm also in the PNW would love to get into the sport.
Does anyone know of a video on this for rimfire?
As an F-class shooter, what you are doing makes perfect sense to me. On an F-class barrel I could see myself going about this the same way you did. On any other rifle, I load, shoot, clean when I'm done.
My process isn't necessary, even for an F-Class barrel. Sometimes, we get wrapped around the axle, and forget it's just a rifle.
You say that a given load in a fresh barrel will produce less pressure than in a worn barrel. Curious as to why that would be.. one would think a worn barrel would provide less friction, therefore less pressure.
Just wanted to say THANK YOU for all your videos. I’ve been watching for quite some time and understand the time it takes to make the videos you do. It is much appreciated in our community, keep up the great work and shooting!
Excellent video! Thank you. 2 questions... How do you get that JB paste out of the throat/chamber area? Also, with regards to damage and barrel wear, how hot can you get a barrel (how fast can you safely shoot)? I've heard not to heat the barrel hotter than you can touch, and that's about 5 back-to-back rounds for my rifle so 50+ rounds takes a lot longer than I'd like even with a barrel cooler.
Flush the bore paste out by a few wet patches, followed by a couple of patches of isopropyl alcohol which absorbs any residual moisture left in the barrel
Get yourself a bore guide. Keeps most of the muck out of your chamber
I was trying to limit my sessions to about 20-30 rounds. I'm just an average joe who shoots decently, but no competition shooter by any means. I am curious about the pace you shoot as you mentioned. How fast are you shooting at a match, so I can mimic that for my own process. My 6ARC now has about 200 rounds through it, with no more than 40 in one session, with5 or 10 shot strings, in cooler (50's) weather. For me, this is a fine shooting rifle and an easy to shoot cartridge for longer shooting sessions.
Man is a lot to learn from you and thanks! From primers seating to good quality barrels, the primer seating deep change for me a hole game from a bad group to good group with a good reputable brass, know I understand why seating deep play a role in reloading at last for me in my tikka !👍🏼
Thanks for the excellent video! What I am wondering about is, how do you know when the barrel is ready for load development? Is this achieved, when the V0 doesn't change anymore?
There is no scientific evidence that breaking in a barrel makes any difference at all. Even the barrel OEMs will tell you they only provide break in procedures because customers expect it.
HI. I've just encountered this channel and I must say this is simply insane. The level of details is crazy. But I love it. May I ask you a question? I am looking at your bullet seating procedure: th-cam.com/video/tOUK_zHt4hQ/w-d-xo.html Do you verify the concentricity of the seated bulled in relation to the case? Thanks!
I bet that group had you smiling the whole way home! Thanks for sharing
I’ve been watching your videos and enjoy them.. in this video I was impressed with your velocity.. your SD had to be ridiculously low.. have you done a video on SD?
As Always great video thanks for posting!!!
TH-cam is not being honest with you. There are plenty of videos showing changing barrels and literally every aspect of assembly, disassembly and building a rifle.
Older videos, and unmonetized videos from before adpocalypse. They get flagged or removed now.
No need to break it in or remove the copper.
What is the make and model of the rear bag
I would like to see you use the Jb bore paste? I have ruined a barrel with Montana extreme bore paste
You can ruin any barrel using an abrasive if you overuse it. You are decreasing the life of the barrel if you use it at all. Not much if you don't overdo it. But as you see what you can do if you overuse it like you previously did. I will bet you dollars to donuts that the paste you used is the same as using JB Bore Paste. They are just different manufacturers of a product that works the same and most likely the formula is so much the same it makes little difference as to which one you use. They are abrasives only with no chemical difference that could make a difference.
I find your videos very informative , thank you for sharing your knowledge , was wondering about the scrubbing of the barrel ? I always thought going from action to muzzle is the way to go ?
Back and forth after removing the carbon is what is done when scrubbing. Other than that, you are pushing a patch. The only way you don't scrub like that is with the Otis method of running either a brush or patch one way only with a coated cable that goes through the barrel and to the action putting a patch or brush on the end and pulling it from the action back out through the barrel in one direction only. Most all competition shooters use a rod from the breach or action.
You break the barrel in every time you shoot it. All the people that eat these rituals up crack me up
I've always wondered about doing exactly this, just never given it a try. Thanks for the borescope video.
Very nice chamber job, kudos to the smith. Good Luck with the new bbl and season. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!!
TH-cam is so messed up.
Wow JB works wonder on a new barrel. I use it and it turned out great. Thanks for the tip on bore scope and the JB . Thanks again
well I drive 3 hours to a gunsmith(dropped off a savage 11 barrel thread need cut and re crowned ok) I was on vacation 50 miles away phone alert check trees fell in my home area oh great the phone rings at home it the gunsmith, you really want this iffy barrel back on it why it not right the chamber & stuff why it off i got a savage axis take off 6.5 creedmore let dig around i be down Tuesday put it finish rifle i bring it home check other barrel & i gave him old stuff i had for savage110 here i had 300wsm & threading answers! i need proper work and proper answers! I wanted to use stuff i have with injury & hunt!
So the 120-150 break in rounds isn't necessary unless you want to do that? Just wondering because I shoot a 7mag and I'm kinda poor 😂
Correct. Just be cognizant of the potential increase in pressure and velocity as you work your way through the first 200-300 rounds of the barrel's life.
@winninginthewind ok I appreciate the info sir.
Could you share the make and model of your front rest and rear support? Also, for your Labradar, are you using an external triggering device to be able to mount it like that? Thanks in advance!
Seb Mini-X. Seb Bigfoot or Edgewood Gator, depending on which stock. The new stock has a narrower keel, so I'm making due while I work on selecting he right bag for it.
You need rumble
You made a comment about velocity in a new barrel and chamber pressure going up as the barrel wears in. I think you have that backwards, the velocity is slow due to higher friction which in turn would mean the chamber is probably HIGHER in pressure trying to get that bullet down the tight chamber. At least that’s what the right side of my brain is telling me. PLEASE dont think this is a criticism, I am just as likely to be missing something trivial. I look at it this way, same powder charge and same expanding gasses but they are trapped for longer which means higher pressure. Oh and yes commenting on a 2 year old video, but I do like your stuff 😊
Is that a Kelblys Golden Bear action, I have the Panda
Yes.
Barrel break in is a relatively new phenomenon. Buy new rifle, shoot it while sighting it in...20 shots or so and then clean as usual and scrub with a bronze bore brush. After 5 shooting sessions (or so) barrel is now broken in. No mystery, the same as you've always done. After all, you're going to be hunting and not trying to put 5 bullets in the same hole.
Excellent! Whose barrel is that? Also, how far down from a final load would you recommend for break in? I'm in the market!
This one is a Brux. I’m not one to worry too much about brand. I’ve had awesome barrels from Hart, Krueger, Bartlein, and Brux.
And Benchmark
@@winninginthewind Watch the benchmark for speeding up after around 300 rounds, i had one speed up so much i thought the chrono went wonky and bought another that confirmed 300 fps more, i was astounded this was even possible
There's actually quite a few 284 shooters in Australia running the 284 on the slow side and achieving great accuracy at 2730-2740fps Keith - wouldn't discount that from your testing.
I know it can shoot well down at the 2720 area, but I prefer to run in my normal node. Call me nostalgic, I like the familiar.
It really irritates me ,to say the least, that youtube sensors anyone however, as an American, How they get away with violating our rights, IS BEYOND ME!!! WE NEED ANOTHER PLATFORM THAT DOES NOT SENSOR NOR VIOLATE ANY OF OUR RIGHTS!!!
Marxists in this country with power have turned freedom OF speech into freedom FROM speech they dont approve of . I hope the day comes when they pay dearly for this violation of our rights . I prefer freedom over censorship.
TH-cam is a for profit company that provides a service to the public that are willing to abide by THEIR guidelines. TH-cam is not the press, it is not an election platform, it is not an area that one can say or do anything they want. It is a service provider.
Think of it as a restaurant with a no shoes, no shirt, no service policy.
It's crazy that youtube wont let you show some of the processes. You can watch people die on youtube but how much powder you measure can somehow cause irreparable damage???
Could you share who is your gun smith? I also live in Wa and I would like to have my rifles built by a smith that’s talented enough for you to trust to build you match winning rifles. I live in Central Wa. and the smiths around here have mixed reviews.
Just discovered your channel today. Good information. Your trouble with TH-cam seems to be a common experience with shooting sports content. So why don't we migrate to more friendly venues such as Rumble? Just curious. I visited the Cascade training center on one occasion, but it is quite a drive for me. Do most of my shooting at Upper Nisqually Sportsmans Club.
Awesome video, can you PLEASE explain sectional density
how close to Belinham are ya?
Not terribly far. Takes about as long to get there as it does to get to Cascade.
How many shots can a barrel continue to speed up? What kind of tripod is on your labradar setup? Thanks
I see you use JB bore bright. I use Brasso. It has some pumis and ammonia. Both help remove built up copper and put a shine in the barrel.
I never break in barrels. Just clean to keep copper out
Is it really TH-cam rules or that you just don't want anyone to know what your loads are? 😆
What does the break in process do to the barrel? What do you see on your groups? When do you know that the barrel is broken in?
No offence, but you seem very concerned about youtube rules and wanting to follow them, yet they can literally make rules on the fly. That can make a rule tomorrow saying you can't show, fire, handle, and even say the word "gun"...then what? This video would get you banned, you would get a strike. So glad you didn't show that barrel install lol.
I hear you, and understand your position. My strategy is intended to allow me to put out more good content instead of getting my channel deleted. There are things I'm not allowed to show here. I'll work around those restrictions to the extent I can, but I want to be able to keep making content for the community...
Is that why you're hair goes from dark to grey
Thank you for putting the use of JB bore paste into perspective.
Barrel break-in is a waste of time
Depends. I would say for you it is true. For those who disagree and do it it's not. I used to break in all of my rifles and at the time it was worth the time. Now I don't go through a procedure because the rifle does get broken in after so many rounds anyway. But you will not be able to reload bullets that will shoot the same for a long time until that barrel has been broken in through a process or just shooting it a number of rounds. Of course, that has to do with decent groups. If one is happy enough with larger groups or will not shoot their rifle much and only zero it and use it for hunting, you are spot on.
Question, when you were cleaning your barrel, I noticed you were doing in and out or back and fort motions. Some said you suppose to scrub it outwards or towards the end of the barrel so any or all debri goes to the ground. So, which is the correct way to clean it? or does not make any difference?
I asked the same question. Technically if he is scrubbing in both directions it might not be that big a deal. I have to say when cleaning my barrels I can’t stand taking off the brush to pull out the rod. It adds so much time to the cleaning process and I feel like I’m not getting a good cleaning.
Cleaning a rifle only takes 3 minutes. My worry is that some say that the way he's cleaning you are getting all the debirs into his rifle action.
@@maxcoatlhunter4322 the use of a quality bore guide will eliminate any worry about gunk getting into the action.
@@maxcoatlhunter4322 I have never had a rifle I could clean in 3 minutes. Unless it doen's need cleaned.
Just bought a 6.5 creemore going to use 143 eld x Hornady h4350 can you tell me we're the most likely spot for the accuracy node be
No. I don't have any experience with that combination.
Great no nonsense usable knowledge
I noticed that when you were cleaning between shots you didn’t take the brush off. You just pulled it back and forth in your opinion is it really that big a deal to ONLY push the cleaning brush in 1 direction.
Sorry for the year-old comment, I just discovered this channel. The thing that I heard was that he’s using a worn brush for this scrubbing, so maybe direction doesn’t matter? The brush would be loose-ish in the bore, unlike a new one.
I used to be a member at cascade as well. They have a really well run club.
Reload learn same thing
You where talking about resonance, a few videos back.
O n a metal barrel. I would be curious if a large triple or four Grove pattern in the outside. Spirreling would stop this
I get my idea from a bunker manufacturer. Who said very large culverts are good for quiet bunkers.
They don't echo. And large culverts are made out of grooved then rolled steel.
It's a strange idea .
That sounds a lot like the structured barrels offered by one vendor. I've never tried one, so I'll leave the viability analysis to someone else.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Great Report .
Thank You .
Thanks for the reply Keith.
Great video with a lot of good points. I think it is absolutely essential to borescope a barrel and have the comparison of good and bad (full of burr marks) barrels even with regular hunting barrels. I had to lead lap a barrel that was full of tool marks and got it to improve from 4 MOA to 1 MOA in the end. 1-2 MOA is good enough for most hunting settings but not for precision shooting and competitions. Barrels from renown top producers do not give you such a headache and one should not lap or fire-lap an excellent barrel but if, as in my case you have a terrible performer, there is certainly not much to loose. Again bore scoping before even buying a gun is the way to go.
I have a bore scope and when you have one and it's magnified even a good barrel can look bad. If you noticed his match barrel didn't look all that well with the burrs before he JB bore pasted it. Every rifle you buy is fire tested at the factory and they don't clean them. Just saying that is my experience. I was amazed at how bad a lot of my rifles looked in that borescope that shot great. Of course, that is just my experience.
X ring stock also, double Christmas present!!
Which barrel brand did you go with?
Kent, Keith replied to me that it is a Brux barrel, but listed 4 others that he felt would do equally well.
Great video.
Very informative.
Cheers.
I've never really noticed a difference between the group I shoot after sight in and a group after 30-60 rounds later... I've heard of some insane break in procedures from some people but honestly I'm all about keeping it simple and knowing I'm only doing it to smooth things out any imperfections or burrs. When I build or buy a new gun I always run a few patched with Hoppe's on it to get all the crap that might be left behind from when it was made then I run a few patches with 99% isopropyl alcohol to get all of the oils out of the barrel. Once I go to my shooting bench I clean to bare metal after 5 shots, I shoot a few more groups then I clean again down to bare metal, then if I don't shoot anymore I consider the barrel broken in or I'll shoot for a little while longer and clean down to bare metal when I quit for the day. Again I've never noticed a difference but that's what I was taught to do growing up and been doing it all my life and I also don't see a reason to not do it. Great video man I just subbed!!!
We all have a tendency to do what we have been taught especially if it seems to have worked for us. I myself hate cleaning rifles and used to do as you do because a friend of mine taught me that is a bench shooter. There have been testing and many shooters have finally come to the conclusions you heard in this video. The rifle will be broken in just shooting it. Many rifles shoot better fouled. Most competition shooters don't clean for a large number of rounds through their rifles and do not clean until it effects the accuracy. It is always a good idea to do what works best for you. It isn't necessary to clean to the bare metal, however. It certainly does not hurt for copper to be in pits in the barrel. If you need to use harsh chemicals to get all the copper out it could be in fact doing more harm than good like reducing barrel life. Just my opinion. As the man said do what you feel is best for you.
Thanks for sharing
Nice. Thank u
Thanks!
What is KG-12
When you start with good, you don't need to break in a barrel
What you really meant to say is a break in procedure is not necessary. And he actually said that in his undertones. He gave everyone the procedure he uses and why. But all barrels are broken in as we shoot them and there is truth to the velocity changes after the barrel has been broken in with a procedure or just from shooting it without a procedure. The number of shots most people reference is somewhere around 150 rounds. If one is a precision shooter and they do break a barrel in, they are using their break in to get a feel for the rifle as well as fire form cases for that rifle only. I used to go through a procedure of break in to smooth the bore out and it did make for easier cleaning while fire forming brass. I don't do that anymore and just go about it a bit slower, but it still takes a number of bullets through the bore before the rifle will be stable enough to make a load that will be lasting. With some procedures you know that the rifle is broken in with about 100 rounds. 50 rounds less than no break in procedure. At least with the procedure that I used when breaking my rifles in.
you are the only person i have seen who sets their labradar over the rifle like this.
I love it.
KW does some great work. Love mine.
I can't say enough good things. IT is the best work I've ever seen in my 10 years+ of competition shooting.
When you get a new barrel do you have it chambered to existing fired and sized cases or start with new cases and barrel chambered to Saami standard
Most if not all F-open builds do not use Saami as a standard. They are cut with a custom die and long throats to handle high BC bullets.
I have it chambered with my reamer. It is a non standard reamer specifically made for the Lapua brass and throated for my choice of bullet.
Can I ask who made your reamer?
Thanks.
This one was made by Manson.
Isn’t 160 odd rounds about 10% of the barrel life?
Correct. I don't worry too much about it normally. In most cases, I can use that life for something valuable. Practice, local matches (practice), or to do some science experiments...
My barrels last easily over 4k rounds. But i dont need quarter inch or even half inch groups for my sport! 3/4 minute will do just fine! ( the sport is rifle silhouette)👍😃
Is there a Patreon video that goes into detail?
Not beyond the extent of this video. There is no magic to breaking in barrels, especially the ones we are going to abuse heavily shooting F-class.
What weight is your trigger pull lbs?
0.2 lbs
Do you shoot a mechanical extractor?
Yes, I use the TG mechanical extractor on the Golden Bear action.
Nice video. What press is that?
Which one?
Question. Wouldn't the pressures be higher in a new barrel, with the tighter tolerances, and the bore not being "polished" due to the projectile taking out any imperfections? Thx
No "breakin" is required! Can do more damage than good. I NEVER remove all the copper out, it's a mistake
Yeah right, but I guess you're also not winning many matches. I don't do break-ins either except to cite in the rifle. And when I do a group for accuracy, it's 20 rounds. My first Centerfire rifle, I owned it for 5 years and fired 320 round groups into a hole that was .049 of an inch Center to Center spread all three times
@@44hawk28 sorry you aren't very educated on the subject.
Why do you shoot a fowling shot before you start? To replace what you removed!!. I will do what you do with your best rifle with my handcanon.
Yeah, right. I’ll listen to the barrel makers…
@@simperous4308 where do you think I got it????? Barrel makers and Mr gunblue490. Y'all kill me
@@simperous4308ill listen to the guys winning PRS matches lol. Barrel break in is a joke.
Are you using a short or long action?
short action
As a 1000yd benchrest shooter I break in every Brux and Kreiger I put on every rifle i build with 15 shots. 1 shot do full cleaning, 2 shots clean, 3 shots clean, 4 shots clean, 5 shots clean. This is to keep the barrel from copper fouling quickly. Alot of times after that first shot a lot of copper comes out like 50 shots were fired. By the time you get to the last 5 shots and clean no blue will come out or very little. After those 15 break in shots i go right in to tuning and my two 1000yd benchrifles and every rifle i build shoot lights out.
My break in process for my AK-47, SKS and Mosin-Nagant is as follows:
Don't bother.