I have tried a lot of different things to print ABS. Again and again I had problems with warping. Inspired by this video, I now sealed the bottom of my print head with tape for a test - the warm air can only escape upwards through the ventilation slots that were already there by default. I have achieved in this way the best print result with ABS on my Anycubic. Thanks for the tip!
After around 20 fail prints, i test your duck tape tip, result? Almost perfect 3d print. THANK YOU! I really didn't even think that air flow would be causing problem, i'm really thankful.
I just wanted to say thank you so very much for your suggestion. I've been struggling to print ABS for a long while. So much so that I gave up on it. As soon as I implemented your idea, I was able to produce 4 prints, one after another, and varying in size. Cheers!
As crazy as this technique sounds it actually makes a HUGE difference! I am amazed because upping hotend temp alone was not alleviating my delamination issues. I now print ABS at 260 with bed at 110 with a similar foil deflector and it works like a dream in my E3 Pro.
@@probablyblue426 PTFE is typically heat resistant up to around 500 F. Plus that's a risk I'm willing to take if it improves print quality and consistency.
That was what I did before I made an enclosure for my Ender 3. Adding a draft shield in the slicer also helped. The enclosure was the best because it made the printer quieter and captured the odor. Thanks for the video.
A Very valuable Video, I have been trying to print ABS on my ender 3 pro for a while now because I want to print the Voron parts but was never able to because the prints would never stick to the bed. I followed your video and used single sided Aluminum sticker tape and sealed the nozzle from below and now I am able to print ABS finally! Thanks a ton for the tip.
This was useful to me, thank you. I printed a PLA cover that I add to act like the tape you had. When printing ABS I add the cover and I have success every time. I did crank up the temperature a bit and it works perfectly. Thank you
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar, and a judge of good horse flesh. One thousand thanks and well wishes for this incredibly helpful tip. One roll of aluminum tape later and I am no longer pulling my hair out while failing to print ABS.
This was really a game changer for me. Thank you very much ! The air currents blowing down from the hot end fan on the print part really do play a big role in making the ABS layers expand and contract, causing layer seperation eventually.
I tried your modification and it worked like a charm for ABS. I don't have to use glue or spray. Just clean and level the bed and the print comes out perfect. Thank you for sharing your idea.
I'm currently 80% trough a print on an unmodified mega zero with no heatbed and printing at 235c with a raft extending 15mm past the part with zero airway and it's PERFECT. Raft shows a little warping at the corners but the part is untouched.
I did not think about aluminium tape, thank you. I also put some small cardboard box next to the bed on the side to avoid the cool air hitting the print.
I accidentally buyed ABS+, it was mixed up with PLA boxes. Succesfully printed it with tips from this video. I would like to point out that might be a BIG ISSUE with ENDER 3. Cooling fan for motherboard enclosure is connected with part cooling fan that you turn off when printing ABS. That also turns off motherboard fan and a bet it get toasty in there. I cut off connector of motherboard fan and connect the wires directly with extruder fan that's always on. To my knowledge all Ender 3's have that issue, even V2.
I built an enclosure to print ABS, PC and was doing so successfully until the heat destroyed the drivers on my BTT mother board. Will definitely give this a try.
Thank you very much for uploading this tip. I'm currently trying this out on my Ender-3 in combination with the experimental setting [Draft shield] in Cura, although i'm using duct-tape(just what i had lying around) to block off the airflow instead which seems to be working so far(fingers Crossed). I Actually gave up on printing with ABS in the past as my success rate was very low. My prints would either split between the layers and/or warp to the point of falling off the build-plate. The successful prints i had with ABS were small in height and "fast" to print (1-3 hours). - Tip: Enable Draft-shield in Cura under advanced settings->Experimental. This Creates a thin wall around object and helps keeping the temp up a little bit better than without anything :)
I use a small USB FAN plugged into an old phone USB charger to speed the cooling process for the bed. You could also experiment with turning down the bed temp minutes prior to the print completing. I've asked Cura to add that to their software so that we can set something like -3 to -6 minutes before print completes, turn down bed temp... In an impossibly ideal world, just seconds after completing your print you would hear the POP of it breaking free!
Just found your channel and I also use my ender 3 to print parts for my S2K. What are the odds!?! Will definitely be using your methods. Best of luck to you and your S!!!
i always use a brim no matter the material. it only takes a minute or 2 to print and as long as you let the bed cool the part pops right off. Nothing worse than coming to check on a 2 day print and it broke adhesion 2 hrs before it finished the part is jammed in between the printer arm and the bed and the y and x axis motors are skipping on their belts.
thats awesome i have problems since 5years to print ABS with my ender i have rewrite the cura profile and use now the tape ! works perfekt now on the original glasbet thanks
I was wondering if I should block the hotend cooling fan from blowing air down. I thought it wouldn't of mattered to be honet as it was still warmish. I'll try it tomorrow!!
I hope you swapped to an allmetal hotend because the PTFE tubing will start to burn/melt inside your stock hotend at abs printing temperatures and release toxic gasses aswell...
Im very glad i came across your video i would never thought the fan would be the reason i always thought it was from the room air flow from hvac my set up is two ikea tables on top of one another with insulation foam boards to close it off and yet that was the reason that fixed it all.
Im going to try this this weekend and im really hoping this works, first time with abs and im getting horrible wrapping and hard as hell to get off the bed
Mine sticks at first then 20 mins into it the print separates off the bed and spaghetti everywhere. I’ve printed the same part in pla and it prints just fine. I had a trash bag over the printer itself.
If i print out some thing for this, shouldn't i just find a thing for the parts fan that moves the air outwards rather than suffocating the fan or should i just cover the whole ducking thing up with plastic? because suffocating the airflow instead of redirecting it doesn't sound like the best option.
My problem with ABS and ASA is not the first layer or bed adhesion, problem is it warps off of the bottom support 😢 tried everything even an enclosure will try this next
my printer just goes till 100 the bed heat, not goes over. what could be? And a sugestion, could you make for us some project where we can download like instead of the ribbon, a cover made in 3d? would be great
Do you print closer towards the pillar because you are assuming it will be more rigid than if the part was centrally located on the bed? if so thats a good idea I may carry on.
Is this using the stock hot end? I'm prepping my CR-10S to print ABS: enclosure, PEI bed, and I think I'll give this trick a try. I was starting to shop for an all-metal hot end, but maybe I don't need to.
That’s an awesome idea. Thank you. To prevent it from crunching when it auto homes, have you considered redoing it to where the airflow exits from the front instead?
He's got part cooling off but getting air from the hot end fan. I'm sure someone has modeled up a mount just for this that he could print. A hero me or satsana might be better, have never really checked for air flow on the nozzle with fans off on mine
I tried this, also made enclosure with 40-50°C inside, printing on glass with small dots, doing brim 8mm... Still warping. Big warping with 250°C nozzle and 100°C bed better with 235°C nozzle and 110°C bed but still slightly warping. Any ideas?
Hi, thanks for the tips. But i think i almost gave up with abs, i try to print (with your tips) 15x6cm with 4.5cm high it tooks almost 11 hours but still shrink at all corners of object. What do you experieced print abs with glue stick? Thank you, great video.
About this Thema, i agree with you. That improve a lot in regards to have warping with abs. I accidentally found another God way to avoid warping and it consists in have a very thin first layer. Almost transparent by reducing the extrusion flow and layer height for the first layer. But you will need a very good leveled bed. Once you can print this such as almost transparent first layer the warping will disappear forever! Maybe 0.05 first layer height. With 50% less extrusion material.
Why are you not easy plug the fan plug off and the fan wouldn't blow anything anymore 🤔 or you could make a switch cable plug between the fan so you could switch the fan on and off for the different filaments. 😊
@@NAUS2K Hehe. I'm like brand new to printing. So I'm just looking for stuff to print now, especially a printer upgrade XD But thinking practically, using tape is probably the most sensible, since I won't be switching from PLA or ABS. You'd be using ABS for a while before switching to PLA So in essence, tape solution is the best :D
What temperature did you set the nozzle at? I'm having issues with my ender 3 V3 KE..it keeps adjusting the nozzle and bed plate temperature by lowering both, after I set the nozzle at 240 and the bedplate at 90-100. Creality told me to use a different slicer to get both temperatures to stay fixed. I were using Creality print and Creality slicer.
I was printing something for 8 hours, it jammed in my sleep and I woke up to a spaghetti mess. Now the abs barely flows, I think my nozzle may be clogged.
I found that a mixture of wood glue and powder sugar makes a very good and sticky way of making ABS prints stick to my glass plates. 50-50 mixture with a bit of water, apply a thin layer and let it dry before you print.
you should ask the place where you bought the printer for a 4.2.7 it will be silent most of the time they will send you this one for free if you have issues printing
The problem is the down wash of cooler air from the hotend fan. I printed in enclosure and still got warping and separation until I isolated the hotend.
What are your print settings, I just got an ender 3 to print car parts and also use the glass bed that came with it but can’t get my prints right :( I’ve gone as far as building an enclosure for it to stay up to temp and sealed from the elements but no dice
You will be most successful running ABS at the higher side of the materials range. Personally I print ABS at 260. A lot of benefits and very little drawbacks to printing ABS hot and slow.
What software are you using to design your parts?… I’m used to using solid works… so the software that comes with this printer I really haven’t dug into much yet…
I have tried a lot of different things to print ABS. Again and again I had problems with warping. Inspired by this video, I now sealed the bottom of my print head with tape for a test - the warm air can only escape upwards through the ventilation slots that were already there by default. I have achieved in this way the best print result with ABS on my Anycubic. Thanks for the tip!
what anycubic you own? i’m planning to buy the mega s and i want to print abs on that
@@dmugas4989 I use the anycubic mega s. To avoid the airflow down i made this: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4873492
@@joerky9540 ow thankyouu thankyou much appreciated
exactly sir same problem....
i think i have to use kapton tape or glue or somthing.
Perfect results with an unmodified mega zero aswell.
After around 20 fail prints, i test your duck tape tip, result? Almost perfect 3d print. THANK YOU!
I really didn't even think that air flow would be causing problem, i'm really thankful.
Love it ! glad to hear man!!!
I just wanted to say thank you so very much for your suggestion. I've been struggling to print ABS for a long while. So much so that I gave up on it. As soon as I implemented your idea, I was able to produce 4 prints, one after another, and varying in size. Cheers!
This hack worked flawlessly. Made the same diverter as in the video. No warping of the print. Thank you!
As crazy as this technique sounds it actually makes a HUGE difference! I am amazed because upping hotend temp alone was not alleviating my delamination issues. I now print ABS at 260 with bed at 110 with a similar foil deflector and it works like a dream in my E3 Pro.
Do you mind sharing your profile settings? I am having the same problem
hey are you using an all metal hotend? 260 is bad for the ptfe lining if you have the stock one
@@mcfluffy28655 E SUN ABS profile with heat ramped up 20 degrees.
@@probablyblue426 PTFE is typically heat resistant up to around 500 F. Plus that's a risk I'm willing to take if it improves print quality and consistency.
@@garrettsmawley okay cool
Never thought about baffling the print head fan. Thanks
Used you settings and am now printing abs on my cr-10 perfectly! Thank you!
Crazy this simple change makes such a big difference.
I never even thought to check this. Just put my hand under the print and it's literally blowing cool air at it thanks man
That was what I did before I made an enclosure for my Ender 3. Adding a draft shield in the slicer also helped.
The enclosure was the best because it made the printer quieter and captured the odor. Thanks for the video.
and here i was getting ready to jerry rig an enclosure to try and keep it warm. this seems well worth a shot first
Finally something that worked for me! I tried numerous hacks and this one worked!
A Very valuable Video, I have been trying to print ABS on my ender 3 pro for a while now because I want to print the Voron parts but was never able to because the prints would never stick to the bed. I followed your video and used single sided Aluminum sticker tape and sealed the nozzle from below and now I am able to print ABS finally! Thanks a ton for the tip.
Ahh it's so refreshing seeing someone print functional items and not a spiderman model.
This was useful to me, thank you. I printed a PLA cover that I add to act like the tape you had. When printing ABS I add the cover and I have success every time. I did crank up the temperature a bit and it works perfectly. Thank you
can you please share the cover model
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar, and a judge of good horse flesh. One thousand thanks and well wishes for this incredibly helpful tip.
One roll of aluminum tape later and I am no longer pulling my hair out while failing to print ABS.
This was really a game changer for me. Thank you very much ! The air currents blowing down from the hot end fan on the print part really do play a big role in making the ABS layers expand and contract, causing layer seperation eventually.
I tried your modification and it worked like a charm for ABS. I don't have to use glue or spray. Just clean and level the bed and the print comes out perfect. Thank you for sharing your idea.
Wow I've searched for so long on how to print with abs and turns out tape is the solution (tape is always the solution)
MY MAN THANK YOU SO MUCH I HAVE BEEN TRYING EVERYTHING… BUT THIS !!! Thank you again!!! AFTER TRYING IT TOTALLY IMPRESSED WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!!
Totally worked thank you again!!!
Genius thank you sir! I'm going to break out the vernier callipers and design a scoop that snaps on instead of tape
I'm currently 80% trough a print on an unmodified mega zero with no heatbed and printing at 235c with a raft extending 15mm past the part with zero airway and it's PERFECT.
Raft shows a little warping at the corners but the part is untouched.
I did not think about aluminium tape, thank you. I also put some small cardboard box next to the bed on the side to avoid the cool air hitting the print.
Perfect fix, thank you! The ABS printing in Ender-3 is working perfectly now!
I accidentally buyed ABS+, it was mixed up with PLA boxes. Succesfully printed it with tips from this video. I would like to point out that might be a BIG ISSUE with ENDER 3. Cooling fan for motherboard enclosure is connected with part cooling fan that you turn off when printing ABS. That also turns off motherboard fan and a bet it get toasty in there. I cut off connector of motherboard fan and connect the wires directly with extruder fan that's always on. To my knowledge all Ender 3's have that issue, even V2.
Thank you for this tip. I am going to check this out for sure
thx for this video...I'll be trying your tips with ABS
My friend, this method has worked for me so much that I can't explain it. Thank you so much.❤❤❤❤👏👏👏👏👏
I built an enclosure to print ABS, PC and was doing so successfully until the heat destroyed the drivers on my BTT mother board. Will definitely give this a try.
A million thanks for the tip.
Bet you could print a pretty sweet wind deflector.
Thank you very much for uploading this tip. I'm currently trying this out on my Ender-3 in combination with the experimental setting [Draft shield] in Cura, although i'm using duct-tape(just what i had lying around) to block off the airflow instead which seems to be working so far(fingers Crossed).
I Actually gave up on printing with ABS in the past as my success rate was very low. My prints would either split between the layers and/or warp to the point of falling off the build-plate. The successful prints i had with ABS were small in height and "fast" to print (1-3 hours).
- Tip: Enable Draft-shield in Cura under advanced settings->Experimental. This Creates a thin wall around object and helps keeping the temp up a little bit better than without anything :)
I use a small USB FAN plugged into an old phone USB charger to speed the cooling process for the bed. You could also experiment with turning down the bed temp minutes prior to the print completing. I've asked Cura to add that to their software so that we can set something like -3 to -6 minutes before print completes, turn down bed temp... In an impossibly ideal world, just seconds after completing your print you would hear the POP of it breaking free!
Just found your channel and I also use my ender 3 to print parts for my S2K. What are the odds!?! Will definitely be using your methods. Best of luck to you and your S!!!
Thank you very much. I printed a cover for my E3 Max neo. The bed can only go to 100deg. I found ABS prints are very good at 100deg bed.
Thank you very much for the tip! Today i printed nice Hatchbox ABS parts with 0 wrapping.
Bro ..thank you very much ..its been 2yrs since, been strugling with abs fil.. i almost smush my printer of my frustration...
I'm gonna try this when I get home
i always use a brim no matter the material. it only takes a minute or 2 to print and as long as you let the bed cool the part pops right off. Nothing worse than coming to check on a 2 day print and it broke adhesion 2 hrs before it finished the part is jammed in between the printer arm and the bed and the y and x axis motors are skipping on their belts.
thats awesome
i have problems since 5years to print ABS with my ender i have rewrite the cura profile and use now the tape ! works perfekt now on the original glasbet
thanks
I was wondering if I should block the hotend cooling fan from blowing air down.
I thought it wouldn't of mattered to be honet as it was still warmish.
I'll try it tomorrow!!
Did it work?
I hope you swapped to an allmetal hotend because the PTFE tubing will start to burn/melt inside your stock hotend at abs printing temperatures and release toxic gasses aswell...
Thanks dude, I will design and print a part that allows us to block air going down just by simply mounting it.
Man You are a genius, tanks you, it work perfect, clean and smooth pieces in abs, fantastic, thank you again
I secure the skirt with adhesive tape because in my case the parts usually don’t stick well even with a skirt. I’ll try abs slurry
works, on an ender 3 no upgrades👌 first try, make sure no air is coming down the nozzle, bed 110 first layers
why not just flip the fan blowing the other direction? Im currently testing it out.
Update flipping the main fan backwards does help without the tape.
Im very glad i came across your video i would never thought the fan would be the reason i always thought it was from the room air flow from hvac my set up is two ikea tables on top of one another with insulation foam boards to close it off and yet that was the reason that fixed it all.
@@ToxicxSocietyx i will try your trick here..
Im going to try this this weekend and im really hoping this works, first time with abs and im getting horrible wrapping and hard as hell to get off the bed
do you have a profile for PETG?
Mine sticks at first then 20 mins into it the print separates off the bed and spaghetti everywhere. I’ve printed the same part in pla and it prints just fine. I had a trash bag over the printer itself.
Good video I will be trying your tricks
I want to try to print abs for a long time now i can give it a try thanks you... one question, what about the fume that the abs produce?
If i print out some thing for this, shouldn't i just find a thing for the parts fan that moves the air outwards rather than suffocating the fan or should i just cover the whole ducking thing up with plastic? because suffocating the airflow instead of redirecting it doesn't sound like the best option.
My problem with ABS and ASA is not the first layer or bed adhesion, problem is it warps off of the bottom support 😢 tried everything even an enclosure will try this next
Hi, thanks for sharing, did u ever tried ASA filament as well?
Makes total sense! thanks for the help
did I hear right @ 6:15 that this was printed .28 mm ?
Yes the max layer height cuts allows for the printer I believe
my printer just goes till 100 the bed heat, not goes over. what could be? And a sugestion, could you make for us some project where we can download like instead of the ribbon, a cover made in 3d? would be great
Do you print closer towards the pillar because you are assuming it will be more rigid than if the part was centrally located on the bed? if so thats a good idea I may carry on.
Is this using the stock hot end?
I'm prepping my CR-10S to print ABS: enclosure, PEI bed, and I think I'll give this trick a try. I was starting to shop for an all-metal hot end, but maybe I don't need to.
This is all stock
You can just shut the cooling fans off in Cura, prior to slicing, can't you?
Not the hotend fan and you dont want that either as without the fan you'll get heat creep and clog immediately
Thanks a lot, worked for me too!
That’s an awesome idea. Thank you. To prevent it from crunching when it auto homes, have you considered redoing it to where the airflow exits from the front instead?
I’ve revised it since to not have the scoop in the back and it seemed to work well still. I have since switched over to petg though due to the fumes
Thanks, i am to tested more ...
Man the motor noise is too high, glad i bought the V2
i was just thinking the same thing
Have you considered lowering or disabling the part cooling fan?
He's got part cooling off but getting air from the hot end fan.
I'm sure someone has modeled up a mount just for this that he could print.
A hero me or satsana might be better, have never really checked for air flow on the nozzle with fans off on mine
I tried this, also made enclosure with 40-50°C inside, printing on glass with small dots, doing brim 8mm... Still warping. Big warping with 250°C nozzle and 100°C bed better with 235°C nozzle and 110°C bed but still slightly warping. Any ideas?
That is the badest arsest "duct" I've ever seen! And it seems to work. My goodness
PETG is great, very heat resistant is strong, if ABS is being a bit fiddley or having more problems than its worth, go PETG :)
I have a roll of that to try next :)
@@NAUS2K so can you use petg on ender3 pro?
@@Chris-vc1dh yes
@@NAUS2K no enclosure needed or any other tricks?
@@Chris-vc1dh not sure i have not tried it yet. But Im sure an enclosure wont hurt
Hi, thanks for the tips. But i think i almost gave up with abs, i try to print (with your tips) 15x6cm with 4.5cm high it tooks almost 11 hours but still shrink at all corners of object.
What do you experieced print abs with glue stick?
Thank you, great video.
wow nice tips
This is amazing, now that u can print abs why don't u replace that hvac tape with a permanent abs part
No point really, the HVAC tape will seal Better than any part I could make
About this Thema, i agree with you. That improve a lot in regards to have warping with abs. I accidentally found another God way to avoid warping and it consists in have a very thin first layer. Almost transparent by reducing the extrusion flow and layer height for the first layer. But you will need a very good leveled bed. Once you can print this such as almost transparent first layer the warping will disappear forever! Maybe 0.05 first layer height. With 50% less extrusion material.
Would it work with tin foil?
i tried the foil tape mod and my machine alarms out and shuts down with a thermal alarm? Using octoprint on same machine as you. Any ideas?
grate video. but after some height the print will automatically get off from bed. please give me solution
Get a different bed plate or use bed adhesion, or baby step the Z axis down when laying the first layer.
deam that sound...why u dnt change the mothetboard for 4.22 silent
Do you have an all metal hot end?
Why are you not easy plug the fan plug off and the fan wouldn't blow anything anymore 🤔 or you could make a switch cable plug between the fan so you could switch the fan on and off for the different filaments. 😊
Is there perhaps a 3d model for the Ender 3s1 Pro for a bottom fan cover you can just equip?
Probably, this video was made ages ago
@@NAUS2K Hehe. I'm like brand new to printing. So I'm just looking for stuff to print now, especially a printer upgrade XD
But thinking practically, using tape is probably the most sensible, since I won't be switching from PLA or ABS. You'd be using ABS for a while before switching to PLA
So in essence, tape solution is the best :D
pla petg abs if infill 100% (thick 4mm up) can't print whitout enclosure
What temperature did you set the nozzle at?
I'm having issues with my ender 3 V3 KE..it keeps adjusting the nozzle and bed plate temperature by lowering both, after I set the nozzle at 240 and the bedplate at 90-100.
Creality told me to use a different slicer to get both temperatures to stay fixed.
I were using Creality print and Creality slicer.
learn how to use OrcaSlicer, make whole lot of difference with any prints.
I was printing something for 8 hours, it jammed in my sleep and I woke up to a spaghetti mess. Now the abs barely flows, I think my nozzle may be clogged.
Nice hack! I'll try it. Please tell me do we need abs slurry or anything for bed adhesion?
I found that a mixture of wood glue and powder sugar makes a very good and sticky way of making ABS prints stick to my glass plates. 50-50 mixture with a bit of water, apply a thin layer and let it dry before you print.
and with a std .4mm nozzle?
Yes standard nozzle and extruder
@@NAUS2K thanks for your prompt reply. And good luck with your channel. Trust me, I know how difficult it can be to establish one:)
Denis
you should ask the place where you bought the printer for a 4.2.7 it will be silent most of the time they will send you this one for free if you have issues printing
Can your share slicer profile for ender 3?
Why not just utilize the draft tunnel under experimental setting. The bed keeps it hot.
The problem is the down wash of cooler air from the hotend fan. I printed in enclosure and still got warping and separation until I isolated the hotend.
What is your bed level height
Do i still have to turn the fan ON sir ? at speed 1-255? thank you sir
They usually advise not using the part cooling fan when printing ABS. You do not want any air currents moving around your printed part.
What are your print settings, I just got an ender 3 to print car parts and also use the glass bed that came with it but can’t get my prints right :( I’ve gone as far as building an enclosure for it to stay up to temp and sealed from the elements but no dice
Ive upgraded the motherboard, upgraded to direct drive, upgraded bed springs still can’t figure it out
Sorry, i dont speak english.
What you settings, retract and speed use? :)
I think I might of missed it But At what Temperature do you put ABS at? I see a lot of places at different temperature but Not sure.
You will be most successful running ABS at the higher side of the materials range. Personally I print ABS at 260. A lot of benefits and very little drawbacks to printing ABS hot and slow.
It looks to me like your Z offset is set to zero. ie nozzle i too high.
Thank you for vid, ive designed custom headlights and trying to deside on an ender printer to buy
@Sheist MCE will be trying to print ASA on ender 5+
How bad is the smell?
Realy good tip this.👌. i just put aluminum foil there and it works .. ABS Sucks hahaha ..
I'm guessing it's pointless to try the regular magnetic bed with ABS.
It’s not recommended to heat the magnetic bed above 80C so I didn’t even try
PEI sheet is great for printing ABS but you need either clamps or permanent magnets as regular magnetic tape loses its properties at high temperature.
what nozzel yaur use ??
Stock
I added fevistick on the the bed....
What software are you using to design your parts?… I’m used to using solid works… so the software that comes with this printer I really haven’t dug into much yet…