I just purchased the S1 plus. I got it on Cyber/Black November sale and saved a fair bit. Really looking forward to it arriving. It's my first 3d printer been wanting one for a while. I wanted something that had a large build volume and the capability to print various materials. The reviews all seemed positive so went ahead and pulled the trigger and ordered the completely wrong package. Thankfully the support at Creality is actually very good. They completely fixed my order in a couple hours via email and now the correct printer and nozzles are heading my way. I was really impressed the Mark 3 but wanted a larger build volume and also didn't want to spend that much. I'm perfectly willing to tinker with this one instead. Thanks for a great video.
Regarding the gate being locked in on the S1 Plus print and free on the MK3S, it's probably due to the MK3S having Linear Advance and the S1 Plus not. When I looked into enabling Linear Advance on my S1 Pro it seemed like it wasn't going to be possible unless the stars aligned and I had the right board and drivers and custom firmware to use them. So instead I switched to Klipper (which I LOVE) and setup Pressure Advance. Made a huge difference.
I have the MK3S+ and the S1 Pro and they are very similar in print quality. However - I think the Prusa will still kick butt if the jerk and acceleration were reduced into S1 territory. I think that's the difference - the Prusa is insanely aggressive while doing small details and the S1 is just casually going about life, taking its time on them.
Also worth mentioning I have some models of my own that fit perfectly together when printed on the Prusa but not quiteee so much when printed on the S1 Pro. Klipper with Pressure Advance helped a lot, but I still have to use the Prusa for that model, unless I modify the model to be more forgiving.
Thanks for the excellent review. I'm buying a printer soon. But what kind of amazes me is that $150 extra to go from 8.6X8.6X10.6in to 11.8*11.8*11.8in would even be a factor. I would very much like to have a printer that would let me print furniture.
Agreed. This is one of the first 'budget' printers I've seen that's actually worth using. The others are 'fine', but once you're spoiled with something nicer, they just seem like too much of a compromise.
I tossed the sprite extruder on one of my four ender's ..it has been fantastic. have the microswiss ng coming in a few days to go on another. (ordered another sprite, too) - we're gonna see the NG and how it stacks up. I wonder how the Bamboo Labs X1 Carbon does on your value scale. Have you had a chance to review it yet? -- you might want to note that you can make this one the 'pro' features if you just add a $20 all-metal heatbrake and a $10 harbor freight 12v light-bar w/a $5 buck converter. ...and honestly their sheet is fine- but I'm addicted to the PEI coated steel sheets.
I got the MicroSwiss NG extruder on my Ender 3 Max and it is excellent. I went and printed a fan shroud for it to house a 5015 size blower fan instead of the 4010. It's great and you will love it.
I have a regular ender 3 and can get one of these for about $200, I think I might, hate manual bed leveling but for the price it’s at currently I can’t complain about that or the larger build volume
The CR Touch is actually only a rip-off in terms of concept, but I find it much better than the BL-Touch. Reason being, that the CR has a metal tip, that always retracts even when power is off. Where the BL falls down when power is off. So on a error you risk having the probing tip collide on power-up, while the CR-Touch stays out of the way. I have retrofitted all my printers with the CR-Touch with nothing to complain about - other than its a wee bit more bulky
@@RobertCowanDIY Nope - unless I was sold a clone as an original, bought it as the real thing. But then when the CR came out, I started to only use the CR -Touch for said reasons. I am not the only one that had that problem - but interesting to hear that you dont have it.
My BLTouch remains retracted when powered down, which is the expected behavior. This is the Smart V3 with the plastic tip. They do need to be adjusted by the grub screw at the top for optimal performance.
I am not a big fan of the leveling knobs either, BUT I must say that they come in handy when you upgrade extruders or hotends. My Prusa had an issue with the bed being unlevel and it was really high on the right side and since there is no manual bed leveling, I had to do the Bed Level Correct and I had to run the first layer calibration a bunch of times to make sure it worked. With the knobs, you can get it pretty close yourself without ever having to use filament and run 1 or 2 mesh level runs to get it dialed in. The Prusa takes a while to get it dialed in.
That sounds like have an assembly issue? I've owned 3 Prusas and the only need very basic leveling. I wonder if you have another issue? Mine took a few minutes each and I haven't touched them in a year or so since.
Love your videos! I am eying your plier setup and I'd love a dedicated video on them. Which Knipex models you love and what they are for as well as some information on your little storage setup. Keep up the great work!
Excellent review, should have seen it before I bought my new printer. At 6:29 you mention a failing print and that you'll talk about it later. Did you mention it later on?
I sold my Ender 5 Pro and used the money to purchase the new Ender 3 S1 Plus. I’m waiting for it to arrive so this video was informative. The prusa mk3s is super nice, but the build plate size is just too small for the money.
Yeah, I wish the Plus had an all-metal hot end, that's the only real thing holding it back from being a great all-around printer. It's still pretty darn good, but it's such a small cost, why not add the bi-metal heat break?!
We just bought an Ender 3 S1 Plus, it has a faulty SD card slot. The UK vendor and Creality are dragging their heals with replacement. Absolutely terrible support. So we haven't managed to print a thing and nobody is willing to replace it or supply a new main board.
OK, life lesson. If you get something and it's faulty, it's always best to just return it as defective. By law, companies have to take the return. If you worry about getting it 'fixed' though, they can drag their feet. If something isn't 100% when you get it, return it, don't try and get it fixed. It's much easier to return and get a new one. Not saying Creality isn't at fault here, but just something worth knowing for next time.
Am i correct in understanding that if you add a metal throat tube to a s1 plus it becomes the same as the s1 pro as far as nozzle temp and print capability? I dont care about the lightbar. Seems like s1 plus is a larger bed that can be upgraded to the same quality as pro model for 15$ hot end. I could be wrong, any opinions appreciated
Huh, I feel like that's basically what I said? It IS really great and the fact I'm recommending it as a budget alternative to the Prusa says a lot for me. I absolutely agree with you, it is the best printer for the money, maybe I wasn't as direct in saying that.
I have the printer and like it very much. Very good print quality at low speed. are there special settings to speed it up while keeping the print quality?
You can pick speed or print quality. You can't necessarily speed it up and expect the exact same print quality. That's the tradeoff with more budget printers.
So many reviews on TH-cam have the major complaint that the "Pre-adjusted wheels" are either too tight, too loose, or a combination. The biggest problem is the flat spot on the wheels from being stored and shipped pre-tightened. I am hoping I get a 3D printer with loose wheels! The beginner might not think to adjust them, but they will eventually, and when they do, they won't have a flat spot causing other problems they can't figure out.
Interesting, I had another commenter say that. I haven't experienced that yet, they've been loose if anything. They do say to adjust them in the manual, I think.
Thanks for this review. You should try Mingda Magician X, I've done the same tert print, and it cleared it shockingly good. All details printed sharp and overhangs were perfect even at 80 degrees. All that while being infinitely quieter than the Ender 3 S1's. Only issue being is that it isn't very upgradable.
The software was on the SD card and there's a QR code in the manual. But you can find it on the S1 Pro page as well, the slicer is for all creality printers: www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-s1-pro?spm=..page_1934481.products_display_1.1&spm_prev=..index.header_1.1
I just used the standard slicer settings right out of the box. I didn't change anything. Just make sure you're using good filament that's properly dried.
I think your Prusa is slightly underextruding, which is why it started with earlier corner issues on the overhangs, and why the tolerance was a bit less restricted.
Interesting, I can look into that. It's always been a bit weak on overhangs and that's a known issue with it, since it has a somewhat weak layer cooling fan.
Its a nice printer. It's not as rinse and repeat print farm fast and slick as prusa stuff. Lots of nice features but the bed is slow to level. It's finicky as well. The prusa machines just bang it out over and over. I run a small farm and while this was a fun purchase there is no way it would replace the prusas. For a person just wanting one machine or two the price point is good. The touch screen is way less intuitive than the jog wheel but it is nice. The always on loud psu sucks... Things like this are why prusa is more. I'm no fanboy. If the ender was closer in terms of speed of operation I'd get more. You do get plenty for the money.
That pretty much sums up my thoughts. If you have the money, the Prusa is the right one to get. If you want a better value or don't mind fiddling from time to time, the Ender is hard to beat.
Did you watch the whole video? I go into all of these questions in great detail. In short, the touchscreen is pretty good. It could be a bit better, but it's one of the better ones out there. This is overall my recommendation in this price range (or the S1 Pro, if you don't need the extra size).
Your recommendation on this or the sidewinder x2? QC concerns have me hesitant on the Ender 3 s1 plus, but I think I’d be in the same price range after putting on a Fula bed, actual bltouch, and support rods on the x2.
I would absolutely without question recommend the Ender 3 S1 Plus. I kinda wish I hadn't even mentioned any QC concerns. It might have just gotten handled roughly during shipping. I wouldn't think there would be any QC issues, Creality has a lot of experience with printers, much more so than Artillery. I would go with the Ender without hesitation.
You mentioned it can't print nylon or ABS but on Ender's website it lists ABS as one of the materials its able to print. Do you just mean it won't print well with this printer's nozzle config?
I probably just mis-spoke. It can easily print ABS, but being that it's open, you won't get great results with ABS unless you enclose it or tightly control ambient temperatures.
I actually prefer the wheels not being tightened. If the box sits on the shelf for a while a tightened wheel setup will develop a dent and it will not move fully smoothly. I had to change all my wheels on my Ender 3 v2 on day one back in the day because they had deformed over time.
If it doesn't move smoothly and develops a dent, you OVER-tightened them. You only need to adjust the eccentric nut until the roller/wheel is just barely making contact with the rail. You don't need to preload any tension in the system, it just needs to make contact.
Would love to get your slicer settings, my MK3S+ with PrusaSlicer and Octoprint have been my go-to for a while, but getting my S1 Plus up and running has been less streamlined...
You have to watch it with "same settings" claims for Prusa's slicer and Cura. Cura....... eh, has a bunch of weird stuff going on in the background. Just today I realized that Cura has something called 'overlap', which doesn't sound like anything at first. Then you realize Cura *increases* flow on stuff like infill and top layers, aaand hides the option away from the user.
IF you can afford the Prusa, get it. I know there's a lot of people saying it's overpriced, etc. It's not. Yes, it does the same thing as the other printers, but it does it every single time without any adjustment. I've never known someone that's actually bought a Prusa that's regretted it.
Dear, first of all very interesting your channel and the explanation of this new model or variant of the Ender 3 S1. I have seen your opinion, I have the Ender 3 S1, and although it has the CR-Touch, you still have to resort to manual leveling of the bed, and that is where I do not understand and I cannot leave the bed in optimal leveling conditions . Although the first time when I assembled the machine I was able to make it look good, then it lost its balance and I couldn't leave it as it was before. I want to ask you if you have a method that you can explain to me to achieve leveling the bed and if you consider that the red metal wheels can help achieve better leveling than the plastic ones and if these are the same as the ones that I have put on my Ender 3 V2, where I have managed to level well, without CR-Touch and when hot, both the bed and the nozzle, (why is it leveled when cold?), when heating the bed and the nozzle, the metals dilate and change the height. If you can give me an idea I will thank you, if you can't no problem, anyway your channel is interesting and I follow it. Best regards. Richard. Buenos Aires, Argentina.
It really sounds like you need to spend more time actually leveling the bed. There should be no difference between the plastic or metal levelers, they achieve the same thing. There is a nut inside that serves the same purpose. Spend a good hour or two making sure it's not only level with the nozzle, but has consistent distance away. You can use a piece of paper like they suggest, or a slightly thicker object (and use the Z offset to set the proper distance later). Yes, the metal will change when it's hot, but I think you're confusing leveling with setting the Z offset. The bed still needs to very much be level, and consistently the same distance away from the nozzle, but the Z offset sets the distance from the bed to the nozzle. You need to do BOTH to ensure good prints. And you should only need to do it once, unless you're moving or otherwise disturbing the printer.
There are fans running at idle, I think just for the power supply. If you don't have the extruder heating, those fans shouldn't be on, just the ones for the power supply down below.
@@RobertCowanDIY yes fans for the power supply probably. But they are quite loud. I have not headed the bed or extruder yet so hopefully it does not take off to the moon. Haha. Would you ever swap out for noctuas?
@@Rjacket In all honesty, noise isn't really a big deal for me. I either have my printers inside a closet or in the shop. In a relative sense, they're ALL very quiet compared to most of my other tools and I don't like the idea of sharing a space with a printer (for fumes and noise in general), so it's never really been much of an issue for ME.
tbh the fans can be swapped for noctua ones, i've been looking forward to this printer and i'm likely to buy this one honestly, i might wait another month tho to let production mature a little.
I think Creality has their act together with making printers. If anything, the price might go up... But Creality has been around for awhile, us reviewers usually get the first batch, after that everything should be ironed out.
TBH, that's not really a "swap". Noctua doesn't make a blower style fan and all of their fans are 12 volts. You would need to print a new cooling solution and use a buck converter in line somewhere. Can it be done? Of course. Is it a swap? No.
I thought the S1 had CR-Touch Auto Leveling. Why does the bed still need to be adjusted. Does this have to be reset before each print? I'm just a bit confused.
There's mechanical adjustment and then height adjustment. You need to manually level it in relation to the frame, but probe compensates for small variances and also helps with distance from nozzle to bed. Ideally a fixed bed solves the first issue, but having some bit of adjustment allows for more flexibility. You only need to manually adjust the bed once.
There are a few ways to do it. While printing, you can touch the top 1/3rd of the screen and just go to z offset and change it there. Or you can go into setting > leveling (wait for it to home), and then adjust it there under the auto leveling tab. Check the manual for information about bed leveling as well. I find it easiest to just adjust during a print. Just start something with a big square base and adjust it while it prints.
Is there any manual for all the menus of the printers setting options out there? I'l didn't find anything about it. Does anyone have a source for this?
How’s the surface quality of the s1 plus compare to the mk3s+ ? I just got a mks3+ and hate the grain / noise you see in solid walls. Hoping / wondering if the s1 is better in that area
I haven't noticed any noise or grain on solid walls on the Prusa OR the S1. I would say they are overall equal, but fine details are a bit sharper on the S1 and overhangs are also better on the S1. If you are having issues with the outer walls, check your filament. Either dry it or get a fresh roll of something nice (like Prusament PLA or Matterhackers Pro PLA) and test that out. But you should have perfectly smooth walls.
@@RobertCowanDIY The surface detail may come down to the fact the Prusa uses an 8 bit board and the S1 uses a 32 bit board. The ability to process the gcode faster means there's less chance of the printer slowing down in areas of higher detail where lots of movements are needed on all motors.
Pretty much anything you can think of! Head over to printables.com and just browse through the models on there. OR, if you have specific products that you want to make accessories to, just search for the model or brand. People have designed attachments, upgrades or accessories for a LOT of different things.
I don't have personal experience with the CR-10 Smart Pro, but it seems like it adds just some extra fancy stuff that you don't really need and it seems to have some reliability issues? I'm not sure it's worth the extra couple hundred dollars for just a webcam and light bar? I'm not really seeing what else it really has other than that.
I'm about to buy a 3D printer and i wonder which is the best choice between the Ender S1 pro and the Prusa mk3S. My goal is printing flexible (even very flexible : shore 70A) TPU. Prusa is better on every features, except the extruder, while Ender holds one of the best extruders. Does your Prusa mk3 print soft TPU well enough ? I'd like to see a test, or maybe a battle , on this kind of filament.😉
The thing I have seen is most people eventually start upgrading bits and pieces to their printers over time. And with Rob saying how good the foundational features of the Prusa are, if the budget isn't a concern then maybe its the way to go? You can probably upgrade the extruder at some point. Though I am not too familiar with things like this.
They both have the same capabilities with TPU. The prusa does just fine. It depends on your budget and what you're looking for. If you get frustrated with tools not working exactly how they should and don't want to ever adjust or otherwise fuss with a printer/tool, get the Prusa. If that's a big stretch to your budget and you won't be printing a lot or don't mind messing with the printer from time to time, get the Ender. I have a lot of tools and if I'm working on a project and need to stop what I'm doing to troubleshoot something, it really frustrates me. I use many different tools for a single project (CNC, 3d printer, laser, etc) and if I have to stop and babysit a machine, it's annoying. With the Prusa, I literally just press print, wait, and remove the part. Most times I don't even look at the printer until I'm removing the part (they're in a closet). If this isn't a concern, maybe get the Ender instead and save some money. Or, get 2 Enders, having dual printers is really useful since prints take so long to complete.
@@RobertCowanDIY Thank you for your answer. You're right : i also have no time to spend on a neverending failing machine. And i can afford the Prusa. If you think there're on the same level on printing soft TPU, the right choice is the Prusa. I worried because there is no video showing this Mk3 printing this kind of thing.
Good day, can you please give me the dimensions of the Ender 3 S1 PLUS in the format length, depth, height? Length: 557cm depth: 535cm Height: 655cm Is it correct?
The width is 557, height is 535 and the depth is 655. Since the bed moves forward and backward, that's the total clearance or footprint the printer needs from front to back. But it's roughly as tall as it is wide.
I like my CR6SE, but it would be nice to have a little more build volume (I know a larger one has been available for a while) … the direct drive extruder would be nice too though.
Huh, interesting. My CR10 came adjusted. That's a good point, if they were adjusted tight during shipping, they would develop a flat spot. BUT, the manual never told you about them, so most users would just start printing and then post on reddit why they had sloppy prints.
In every hobby there's always diminishing return. Cars, houses, tools, audio, etc. To get a little bit better, it's always a LOT more (once you hit that high value point). I still really like my MK3s, but I'm thinking of replacing my Prusa Mini with an Ender Pro.
If you're not looking for the extra size, definitely go with the Ender S1 Pro. It has a few little upgrades and it's on sale right now: amzn.to/3XFrBZy
@@monsterstorm78 If you need a larger print volume, the S1 Plus is the one to go with. If you don't need the size and want an all-metal hot-end for printing nylon or hotter filaments, go with the S1 Pro. I think the S1 Pro is a slightly better printer, but the plus is just bigger.
@@monsterstorm78 Ha. Do you NEED to print bigger parts? If you don't need to, or haven't found that need already, just get the S1 Pro. It will printer MORE materials, and dealing with a smaller print bed is easier for leveling.
The prusa's are showing there age other then customer service I think the s1 is the way to go unless prusa updates the printer in some way to justify the 1k price tag its just not worth it anymore. Prusa will always have the hardcore fans and there is nothing wrong with that s1 gets my vote.
I'd tend to agree with that. But my only comment is (having owned one), it's just much much easier and more pleasant to use. I have a lot of tools and the Prusa is just like any other tool. I press print and I get a part, no hassle. I've had a LOT of other printers and none have been as user friendly and hands-off as the Prusa. If 3d printing is your ONLY hobby and you have time to fiddle, the Prusa doesn't make sense. I'm not a Prusa fan-boy, but it's a tool I don't have to think about or maintain, so I like it.
@@RobertCowanDIY I agree with ya I had both a mini and mk3s and it was not a bad experience but not anything exciting either. I really liked the mini and I think I would get a couple more if the lead times were not so long. Creality if definitely catching up these days and the prusa xl has a lot of hype to live up to.
I can't stand printers that use the delrin wheels and V slot rails. Almost 8 miles of 3d printed filament on my MK3s and I never have to worry about adjusting the belts or bearings. My MK3s still holds +-.0005" tolerance after nearly 8 miles of filament.
I'm not a big fan of them either, but they save a lot of cost and if you stay up on maintenance, they should work fine for most people. But I agree, I would prefer to keep my MK3s.
@@hayden9944 HAHA. Imagine 'hating' a system of measurement. A lot of people that use imperial also hate it, but I've explained this a million times. I can't go to the store and get a metric tape measure, metric drills/taps are nearly impossible to find (other than online), and metric tools just plain don't exist. I try using metric when I can, but if you live in the US, almost nothing is metric, so you need to use imperial.
@@RobertCowanDIY - I only hate it more then delrin wheels - which I don’t hate that much. I was being cheeky really but I guess I didn’t pull it off. I understand why it still exists. I’m from the U.K. and everything is metric (apart from miles and stone for some reason), but we can easily purchase any metric or imperial. Don’t US tape measures have both metric and imperial?
I wouldn't call the CR Touch a ripoff. Rather, it is a clone that is far better than the BL Touch. I've used both and find the CR to be better in all aspects.
Hi friend,do you know the brand of 3D printers Longer?You made a very interesting video. We appreciate it. Is there any possibility of our working together?
Truth. I was pretty impressed with what they did with the extruder. I would love to see them move past the eccentric nuts and rubber rollers and get rid of the springy bed though.
It would be really nice to see those prints with a filament that actually show imperfections and not hiding them, also a harsh direct light from above would show layer inconsitencies which we barely see with these softboxes used.
I actually specifically chose this filament because it shows imperfections. It's not speckled or textured so it doesn't hide anything and the medium color tends to show more issues. I also do not use softboxes, I have quite harsh garage light! These are just really good prints.
@@RobertCowanDIY the filament does seem speckled though I don't know, but both prints look like they have a very fine texture to them which I find odd if the filament is not like that. And as many shadows I see, this is a very diffused light (even if it's not with softboxes), not harsh at all (there are no deep shadows anywhere around the prints or under your hand)
I use octoprint on all my printers, so the touchscreen isn't really all that relevant, but it's still nice for heating it up or adjusting feedrate when you're actually in front of the printer. But you're right, octoprint kinda negates most all UI issues.
For the details accuracy, vs. tollerance, you most probably have a pre-used nozzle on the Prusa, vs. a brand new one on the Ender. A never and cleaner nozzles tends to print much crisper, where a slightly worn one changes extrusion flow and accuracy. Within 1 month the Ender will most likely degrade in details. On Enders I had to adjust the extrusion steps on every printer, so that print in place tolerances fall into place. Small adjustment that varies from environment and filament.
I'm moreso just looking for ease of use and longevity for business use (don't want to spend hours configuring or problem solving as hours=money) would it just be better to get the Prusa, or would the Ender be almost identical in those terms?
@@Stevieboy7 The prusa is probably a better choice in your case. Almost no matter what you get, you will probably end up getting upgrades for it as you go. And the prusa seems to have quite the community around it.
@@Stevieboy7 I have an Ender 3, Ender 6 and Cr10 since years, the maintenance and hours spent are absolutely minimal considering the base configuration. I add to all my printers OctoPrints for ease of use, that takes its time to setup - not in the weeks, but hours. I think when you configure your printer to your needs, they become much less troublesome and more efficient. I would say from several years of experience with Creality, they are pretty much much plug and play with little wear and tear. You can have a dead component on even the most expensive printers. I have never worked with a Prusa, I find them ugly and I never was curious about them.
@@wishusknight3009 My CR 10 is most likely about 5 years old, I had one broken PSU, which was easy to get from local supplier and thats all. All my printers are running nearly 24/7. Creality is not very good in firmware transparency nor updates, yet the community has some really good people that made kick-ass firmware updates for it, that extend functionality.
The nozzle isn't a factor, I use a diamond nozzle on my Prusa, and these simply do not wear out. There isn't a filament out there that can abrade it. You might have ended up printing a glow in the dark or wood-fill filament, which can erode the nozzle. Under most conditions, a brass nozzle should last quite awhile. But filaments now have more and more additives which can open up the aperture on a brass nozzle.
Maybe we are looking at these printers after 10.000h of printing! Oh….firmware…Creality is a joke! Clickbait video title! Prusa is the draft horse not Creality!
Ha. I pretty clearly say if you had the money for a Prusa, that's what I would recommend. But many many people will be in a different price range and this is a good alternative. A LOT of people have had Creality printers going for a long time and had good luck with them. I'll personally stick with my MK3S, but not everyone has the budget for that. Also, take your 'clickbait video title' bullshit elsewhere.
@@petermarkk1408They gave me a printer for free, but did not pay me for the video nor did they tell me what to say or review this video ahead of time either. I gave the printer to my father in law who's still happily using it.
I just purchased the S1 plus. I got it on Cyber/Black November sale and saved a fair bit. Really looking forward to it arriving. It's my first 3d printer been wanting one for a while. I wanted something that had a large build volume and the capability to print various materials. The reviews all seemed positive so went ahead and pulled the trigger and ordered the completely wrong package. Thankfully the support at Creality is actually very good. They completely fixed my order in a couple hours via email and now the correct printer and nozzles are heading my way. I was really impressed the Mark 3 but wanted a larger build volume and also didn't want to spend that much. I'm perfectly willing to tinker with this one instead. Thanks for a great video.
Nice! Creality is an entry level Chinese brand, but I think they do a good job, considering what it is.
Awesome! Where did you buy and what did you pay? I’m looking to buy one now so I need to know how bad to feel that I missed the Black Friday deals 😂
@@TypicalDad1980 It was around $425 for the Ender 3 S1 Plus.
As always, definitely appreciate the extra effort for chapter markers! 👍
No problem, I always like when other TH-camrs use the feature, it makes it much easier to find the information you're looking for.
Love your page. This video brought me to It a couple months ago and I've watched a lot of your videos. Thank you! Just ordered the Ender-3 S1 Plus.
The prusa had to be dethroned at some point. And the bigger build volume and near half price cannot be ignored
Yes and….the chinese worker will do it for 400$ a month!
@@petermarkk1408 Are they not both made in China?
@@HavocBlack, Prusa is made in Prague.
I really really like your reviews and how you are rather down to earth about what most people use 3D printers for. THANKS!
Thank YOU!
Loved the "welcome to the video" at the conclusion
Right? Whenever I watch a product review, I just skip straight to the end.
Regarding the gate being locked in on the S1 Plus print and free on the MK3S, it's probably due to the MK3S having Linear Advance and the S1 Plus not. When I looked into enabling Linear Advance on my S1 Pro it seemed like it wasn't going to be possible unless the stars aligned and I had the right board and drivers and custom firmware to use them. So instead I switched to Klipper (which I LOVE) and setup Pressure Advance. Made a huge difference.
Texturized bed can be acquired by around 28 bucks, so it does not a big deal to replace it, thanks for the video
For sure. I like to review printers as-is, since so many people end up spending the cost of the actual printer 'upgrading' it.
Great video, looking into getting a printer, and this was very informational and helpful. Loved the format as well, keep up the great work!
I have the MK3S+ and the S1 Pro and they are very similar in print quality. However - I think the Prusa will still kick butt if the jerk and acceleration were reduced into S1 territory. I think that's the difference - the Prusa is insanely aggressive while doing small details and the S1 is just casually going about life, taking its time on them.
Also worth mentioning I have some models of my own that fit perfectly together when printed on the Prusa but not quiteee so much when printed on the S1 Pro. Klipper with Pressure Advance helped a lot, but I still have to use the Prusa for that model, unless I modify the model to be more forgiving.
Thanks for the excellent review. I'm buying a printer soon. But what kind of amazes me is that $150 extra to go from 8.6X8.6X10.6in to 11.8*11.8*11.8in would even be a factor. I would very much like to have a printer that would let me print furniture.
Upgraded to this one from my e3v2. Will be here tomorrow
hi, so this is 7 month later, what is your opinion on the s1 plus? considering this as my first 3d printer
This is a printer I could recommend a first time buyer that doesn't want crap. Its cost is certainly worth it over most any $300 i have seen.
Agreed. This is one of the first 'budget' printers I've seen that's actually worth using. The others are 'fine', but once you're spoiled with something nicer, they just seem like too much of a compromise.
I tossed the sprite extruder on one of my four ender's ..it has been fantastic. have the microswiss ng coming in a few days to go on another. (ordered another sprite, too) - we're gonna see the NG and how it stacks up. I wonder how the Bamboo Labs X1 Carbon does on your value scale. Have you had a chance to review it yet? -- you might want to note that you can make this one the 'pro' features if you just add a $20 all-metal heatbrake and a $10 harbor freight 12v light-bar w/a $5 buck converter. ...and honestly their sheet is fine- but I'm addicted to the PEI coated steel sheets.
I got the MicroSwiss NG extruder on my Ender 3 Max and it is excellent. I went and printed a fan shroud for it to house a 5015 size blower fan instead of the 4010. It's great and you will love it.
I have a regular ender 3 and can get one of these for about $200, I think I might, hate manual bed leveling but for the price it’s at currently I can’t complain about that or the larger build volume
I purchased an S1 Plus for $330 at Microcenter. I took the advice of getting the silicone bed spacers to replace the springs.
Ah nice. Yeah, in 2023, printers shouldn't use springs for the bed.
Mine arrived all adjusted and tightened. Wheels maybe were even too tight so I loosened to avoid premature wear out.
Neat.
The CR Touch is actually only a rip-off in terms of concept, but I find it much better than the BL-Touch. Reason being, that the CR has a metal tip, that always retracts even when power is off. Where the BL falls down when power is off. So on a error you risk having the probing tip collide on power-up, while the CR-Touch stays out of the way.
I have retrofitted all my printers with the CR-Touch with nothing to complain about - other than its a wee bit more bulky
Huh, I've had a BL-Touch and it had a metal probe and didn't fall down with the power off. Did you maybe have a knock-off yourself?
@@RobertCowanDIY Nope - unless I was sold a clone as an original, bought it as the real thing. But then when the CR came out, I started to only use the CR -Touch for said reasons. I am not the only one that had that problem - but interesting to hear that you dont have it.
My BLTouch remains retracted when powered down, which is the expected behavior. This is the Smart V3 with the plastic tip. They do need to be adjusted by the grub screw at the top for optimal performance.
I am not a big fan of the leveling knobs either, BUT I must say that they come in handy when you upgrade extruders or hotends. My Prusa had an issue with the bed being unlevel and it was really high on the right side and since there is no manual bed leveling, I had to do the Bed Level Correct and I had to run the first layer calibration a bunch of times to make sure it worked.
With the knobs, you can get it pretty close yourself without ever having to use filament and run 1 or 2 mesh level runs to get it dialed in. The Prusa takes a while to get it dialed in.
That sounds like have an assembly issue? I've owned 3 Prusas and the only need very basic leveling. I wonder if you have another issue? Mine took a few minutes each and I haven't touched them in a year or so since.
Love your videos! I am eying your plier setup and I'd love a dedicated video on them. Which Knipex models you love and what they are for as well as some information on your little storage setup. Keep up the great work!
I love them all. But in seriousness, I like the cobras, the twin grip, and the pliers wrench. Those are the ones I use the most.
Excellent review, should have seen it before I bought my new printer. At 6:29 you mention a failing print and that you'll talk about it later. Did you mention it later on?
I sold my Ender 5 Pro and used the money to purchase the new Ender 3 S1 Plus. I’m waiting for it to arrive so this video was informative. The prusa mk3s is super nice, but the build plate size is just too small for the money.
Hope you enjoy it!
what would you say about the Ender 5 Plus? if you have looked into?
@@mrman7371 Sorry, just saw this! I don't have any personal experience with it, but I've heard other's haven't been too impressed.
I've got people recommending I get the 5 Plus instead of the S1 Plus .. have you had a good experience with the S1 plus?
Thank you so much for this. I at last can get some more info on this thing
You're welcome!
Thank you for that review
No problem 👍
I bought a standard ender 3 s1 about 2 weeks ago, and it’s fantastic. I like it yet I’m planning to get the small bit to make it a full metal hot end.
Yeah, I wish the Plus had an all-metal hot end, that's the only real thing holding it back from being a great all-around printer. It's still pretty darn good, but it's such a small cost, why not add the bi-metal heat break?!
We just bought an Ender 3 S1 Plus, it has a faulty SD card slot. The UK vendor and Creality are dragging their heals with replacement. Absolutely terrible support. So we haven't managed to print a thing and nobody is willing to replace it or supply a new main board.
OK, life lesson. If you get something and it's faulty, it's always best to just return it as defective. By law, companies have to take the return. If you worry about getting it 'fixed' though, they can drag their feet. If something isn't 100% when you get it, return it, don't try and get it fixed. It's much easier to return and get a new one. Not saying Creality isn't at fault here, but just something worth knowing for next time.
Am i correct in understanding that if you add a metal throat tube to a s1 plus it becomes the same as the s1 pro as far as nozzle temp and print capability? I dont care about the lightbar. Seems like s1 plus is a larger bed that can be upgraded to the same quality as pro model for 15$ hot end. I could be wrong, any opinions appreciated
Great video. I just think this is much better of a printer than you make it out to be. Best printer out there for the money. Next step up is a prusa.
Huh, I feel like that's basically what I said? It IS really great and the fact I'm recommending it as a budget alternative to the Prusa says a lot for me. I absolutely agree with you, it is the best printer for the money, maybe I wasn't as direct in saying that.
I have the printer and like it very much. Very good print quality at low speed. are there special settings to speed it up while keeping the print quality?
You can pick speed or print quality. You can't necessarily speed it up and expect the exact same print quality. That's the tradeoff with more budget printers.
So many reviews on TH-cam have the major complaint that the "Pre-adjusted wheels" are either too tight, too loose, or a combination. The biggest problem is the flat spot on the wheels from being stored and shipped pre-tightened. I am hoping I get a 3D printer with loose wheels! The beginner might not think to adjust them, but they will eventually, and when they do, they won't have a flat spot causing other problems they can't figure out.
Interesting, I had another commenter say that. I haven't experienced that yet, they've been loose if anything. They do say to adjust them in the manual, I think.
Thanks for this review. You should try Mingda Magician X, I've done the same tert print, and it cleared it shockingly good. All details printed sharp and overhangs were perfect even at 80 degrees. All that while being infinitely quieter than the Ender 3 S1's. Only issue being is that it isn't very upgradable.
I'll check it out!
thank you
Hello, I have a query. How tall is the Creality Ender 3 S1 PLUS printer with the filament roll attached? Thank you
I dont understand why they didnt just make the S-1 Plus have the Pro features with the all metal hot end... Are we gonna get and S-1 Plus Pro or what?
Right? I would like to see that as well.
Where did you find the instructions on the custom branded Cura slicer software? Awesome video! I just bought one
The software was on the SD card and there's a QR code in the manual. But you can find it on the S1 Pro page as well, the slicer is for all creality printers: www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-s1-pro?spm=..page_1934481.products_display_1.1&spm_prev=..index.header_1.1
@@RobertCowanDIY I love you, keep doing your thing man. Love the content!
Hi Robert, just bought the S1-Plus after seeing your video. Do you share your settings?
I just used the standard slicer settings right out of the box. I didn't change anything. Just make sure you're using good filament that's properly dried.
What about a comparison with the 3 big prints? This printer vs 5 plus and 6 max. What would be your value score for them?
I'd have to get all 3 and test them out. Without having them in my hands, I'm not sure. They are very different printers.
what do you think of the Ender 5 Plus? im stuck deciding between Ender 3 s1 Plus and the Ender 5 plus
I've not heard many good things about the 5. It seems like Creality is just better at making traditional bed-slingers.
I think your Prusa is slightly underextruding, which is why it started with earlier corner issues on the overhangs, and why the tolerance was a bit less restricted.
Interesting, I can look into that. It's always been a bit weak on overhangs and that's a known issue with it, since it has a somewhat weak layer cooling fan.
Its a nice printer. It's not as rinse and repeat print farm fast and slick as prusa stuff. Lots of nice features but the bed is slow to level. It's finicky as well. The prusa machines just bang it out over and over. I run a small farm and while this was a fun purchase there is no way it would replace the prusas. For a person just wanting one machine or two the price point is good. The touch screen is way less intuitive than the jog wheel but it is nice. The always on loud psu sucks... Things like this are why prusa is more. I'm no fanboy. If the ender was closer in terms of speed of operation I'd get more. You do get plenty for the money.
That pretty much sums up my thoughts. If you have the money, the Prusa is the right one to get. If you want a better value or don't mind fiddling from time to time, the Ender is hard to beat.
is the ender 3 s1 plus worth buying and any pros or cons wit this printer ?
Did you watch the whole video? I go into all of these questions in great detail. In short, the touchscreen is pretty good. It could be a bit better, but it's one of the better ones out there. This is overall my recommendation in this price range (or the S1 Pro, if you don't need the extra size).
Your recommendation on this or the sidewinder x2? QC concerns have me hesitant on the Ender 3 s1 plus, but I think I’d be in the same price range after putting on a Fula bed, actual bltouch, and support rods on the x2.
I would absolutely without question recommend the Ender 3 S1 Plus. I kinda wish I hadn't even mentioned any QC concerns. It might have just gotten handled roughly during shipping. I wouldn't think there would be any QC issues, Creality has a lot of experience with printers, much more so than Artillery. I would go with the Ender without hesitation.
Is it possible to upgrade the Plus to match the benefits of the Pro?
Sure. You'd just need to upgrade the hot-end to an all-metal and add the LED light. I THINK they offer parts for both of these.
@@RobertCowanDIY hey, thank you so much for answering!
You mentioned it can't print nylon or ABS but on Ender's website it lists ABS as one of the materials its able to print. Do you just mean it won't print well with this printer's nozzle config?
I probably just mis-spoke. It can easily print ABS, but being that it's open, you won't get great results with ABS unless you enclose it or tightly control ambient temperatures.
I actually prefer the wheels not being tightened. If the box sits on the shelf for a while a tightened wheel setup will develop a dent and it will not move fully smoothly. I had to change all my wheels on my Ender 3 v2 on day one back in the day because they had deformed over time.
If it doesn't move smoothly and develops a dent, you OVER-tightened them. You only need to adjust the eccentric nut until the roller/wheel is just barely making contact with the rail. You don't need to preload any tension in the system, it just needs to make contact.
@@RobertCowanDIY It came dented from factory due to overtightening.
Can this upgrade to full metal extruder?
Yes, they have an all-metal upgrade kit.
is the touchscreen easy to use or complicated
See my other comment, or just watch the video.
any advice to get pro or plus? I'm still deciding as they are on discount of 10% now in my area (store)
BIGGER. Can always add the "Pro" features, to the Plus, but can't add the BIGGER, to the Pro
@@3DRundown thanks for the great advice. ive ordered s1 plus now. hehe
@@jackjackjacky7297 Epic, I did too!! hahhaha Let's kick ass together! Shoot me a sub! Also check out @greggadventure Let me know how it works out!
I would be interested in how you feel with the Sonic Pad connected to this vs stock.
I've seen many other videos about it and it doesn't really seem like it adds any real benefit. It's cheap, but it doesn't seem to really do anything.
Would love to get your slicer settings, my MK3S+ with PrusaSlicer and Octoprint have been my go-to for a while, but getting my S1 Plus up and running has been less streamlined...
I just used the Creality slicer and standard settings, nothing more.
You have to watch it with "same settings" claims for Prusa's slicer and Cura. Cura....... eh, has a bunch of weird stuff going on in the background. Just today I realized that Cura has something called 'overlap', which doesn't sound like anything at first. Then you realize Cura *increases* flow on stuff like infill and top layers, aaand hides the option away from the user.
Trying to decide between this one and the prusa. Paying an extra $300 for the DIY prusa is... a reach for me. We'll see.
IF you can afford the Prusa, get it. I know there's a lot of people saying it's overpriced, etc. It's not. Yes, it does the same thing as the other printers, but it does it every single time without any adjustment. I've never known someone that's actually bought a Prusa that's regretted it.
Dear, first of all very interesting your channel and the explanation of this new model or variant of the Ender 3 S1. I have seen your opinion, I have the Ender 3 S1, and although it has the CR-Touch, you still have to resort to manual leveling of the bed, and that is where I do not understand and I cannot leave the bed in optimal leveling conditions . Although the first time when I assembled the machine I was able to make it look good, then it lost its balance and I couldn't leave it as it was before. I want to ask you if you have a method that you can explain to me to achieve leveling the bed and if you consider that the red metal wheels can help achieve better leveling than the plastic ones and if these are the same as the ones that I have put on my Ender 3 V2, where I have managed to level well, without CR-Touch and when hot, both the bed and the nozzle, (why is it leveled when cold?), when heating the bed and the nozzle, the metals dilate and change the height. If you can give me an idea I will thank you, if you can't no problem, anyway your channel is interesting and I follow it. Best regards. Richard. Buenos Aires, Argentina.
It really sounds like you need to spend more time actually leveling the bed. There should be no difference between the plastic or metal levelers, they achieve the same thing. There is a nut inside that serves the same purpose. Spend a good hour or two making sure it's not only level with the nozzle, but has consistent distance away. You can use a piece of paper like they suggest, or a slightly thicker object (and use the Z offset to set the proper distance later). Yes, the metal will change when it's hot, but I think you're confusing leveling with setting the Z offset. The bed still needs to very much be level, and consistently the same distance away from the nozzle, but the Z offset sets the distance from the bed to the nozzle. You need to do BOTH to ensure good prints. And you should only need to do it once, unless you're moving or otherwise disturbing the printer.
I passed the makers muse tolerance test v2 when I printed out of abs with Ender 3 s1 plus.
Nice!
Question, I just picked up a Plus, are the unit fans meant to be on when powering the unit. Just sitting idle its quite loud...?
There are fans running at idle, I think just for the power supply. If you don't have the extruder heating, those fans shouldn't be on, just the ones for the power supply down below.
@@RobertCowanDIY yes fans for the power supply probably. But they are quite loud. I have not headed the bed or extruder yet so hopefully it does not take off to the moon. Haha. Would you ever swap out for noctuas?
@@Rjacket In all honesty, noise isn't really a big deal for me. I either have my printers inside a closet or in the shop. In a relative sense, they're ALL very quiet compared to most of my other tools and I don't like the idea of sharing a space with a printer (for fumes and noise in general), so it's never really been much of an issue for ME.
tbh the fans can be swapped for noctua ones, i've been looking forward to this printer and i'm likely to buy this one honestly, i might wait another month tho to let production mature a little.
I think Creality has their act together with making printers. If anything, the price might go up... But Creality has been around for awhile, us reviewers usually get the first batch, after that everything should be ironed out.
TBH, that's not really a "swap". Noctua doesn't make a blower style fan and all of their fans are 12 volts. You would need to print a new cooling solution and use a buck converter in line somewhere. Can it be done? Of course. Is it a swap? No.
I thought the S1 had CR-Touch Auto Leveling. Why does the bed still need to be adjusted. Does this have to be reset before each print? I'm just a bit confused.
There's mechanical adjustment and then height adjustment. You need to manually level it in relation to the frame, but probe compensates for small variances and also helps with distance from nozzle to bed. Ideally a fixed bed solves the first issue, but having some bit of adjustment allows for more flexibility. You only need to manually adjust the bed once.
@@RobertCowanDIY Thank you for this information
How did you adjust the Z Offset? Mine is set to 0 and i cannot find an option to change it anywhere.
There are a few ways to do it. While printing, you can touch the top 1/3rd of the screen and just go to z offset and change it there. Or you can go into setting > leveling (wait for it to home), and then adjust it there under the auto leveling tab. Check the manual for information about bed leveling as well. I find it easiest to just adjust during a print. Just start something with a big square base and adjust it while it prints.
i want to buy a 3d printer for max 500 euro. which one would you recommend?
For a general purpose printer, I would go with the Ender-3 S1 Pro: amzn.to/3BECul3 It's the best all around printer under $500, I think.
excellent video
Thank you very much!
Is there any manual for all the menus of the printers setting options out there? I'l didn't find anything about it. Does anyone have a source for this?
Hum, I'm not sure. You didn't see anything in the manual? A quick search didn't yield anything unfortunately.
How’s the surface quality of the s1 plus compare to the mk3s+ ? I just got a mks3+ and hate the grain / noise you see in solid walls. Hoping / wondering if the s1 is better in that area
I haven't noticed any noise or grain on solid walls on the Prusa OR the S1. I would say they are overall equal, but fine details are a bit sharper on the S1 and overhangs are also better on the S1. If you are having issues with the outer walls, check your filament. Either dry it or get a fresh roll of something nice (like Prusament PLA or Matterhackers Pro PLA) and test that out. But you should have perfectly smooth walls.
@@RobertCowanDIY The surface detail may come down to the fact the Prusa uses an 8 bit board and the S1 uses a 32 bit board. The ability to process the gcode faster means there's less chance of the printer slowing down in areas of higher detail where lots of movements are needed on all motors.
im interested in 3d printing...i have no idea what i would create with a 3d printer.
Pretty much anything you can think of! Head over to printables.com and just browse through the models on there. OR, if you have specific products that you want to make accessories to, just search for the model or brand. People have designed attachments, upgrades or accessories for a LOT of different things.
An upgrade I’d like to see from Creality is multi color capability!
same!
Ender S1 Plus or CR-10 Smart Pro?
I don't have personal experience with the CR-10 Smart Pro, but it seems like it adds just some extra fancy stuff that you don't really need and it seems to have some reliability issues? I'm not sure it's worth the extra couple hundred dollars for just a webcam and light bar? I'm not really seeing what else it really has other than that.
I'm about to buy a 3D printer and i wonder which is the best choice between the Ender S1 pro and the Prusa mk3S.
My goal is printing flexible (even very flexible : shore 70A) TPU.
Prusa is better on every features, except the extruder, while Ender holds one of the best extruders.
Does your Prusa mk3 print soft TPU well enough ?
I'd like to see a test, or maybe a battle , on this kind of filament.😉
The thing I have seen is most people eventually start upgrading bits and pieces to their printers over time. And with Rob saying how good the foundational features of the Prusa are, if the budget isn't a concern then maybe its the way to go? You can probably upgrade the extruder at some point. Though I am not too familiar with things like this.
They both have the same capabilities with TPU. The prusa does just fine. It depends on your budget and what you're looking for. If you get frustrated with tools not working exactly how they should and don't want to ever adjust or otherwise fuss with a printer/tool, get the Prusa. If that's a big stretch to your budget and you won't be printing a lot or don't mind messing with the printer from time to time, get the Ender. I have a lot of tools and if I'm working on a project and need to stop what I'm doing to troubleshoot something, it really frustrates me. I use many different tools for a single project (CNC, 3d printer, laser, etc) and if I have to stop and babysit a machine, it's annoying. With the Prusa, I literally just press print, wait, and remove the part. Most times I don't even look at the printer until I'm removing the part (they're in a closet). If this isn't a concern, maybe get the Ender instead and save some money. Or, get 2 Enders, having dual printers is really useful since prints take so long to complete.
@@RobertCowanDIY Thank you for your answer. You're right : i also have no time to spend on a neverending failing machine. And i can afford the Prusa.
If you think there're on the same level on printing soft TPU, the right choice is the Prusa. I worried because there is no video showing this Mk3 printing this kind of thing.
Is it possible to change the extrusor from the ender 3 s1 pro to the s1 plus??
Because of the hotend, to print with more materials
They are nearly identical and there's an upgrade to an all-metal so they can be identical.
Good day,
can you please give me the dimensions of the Ender 3 S1 PLUS in the format length, depth, height?
Length: 557cm
depth: 535cm
Height: 655cm
Is it correct?
The width is 557, height is 535 and the depth is 655. Since the bed moves forward and backward, that's the total clearance or footprint the printer needs from front to back. But it's roughly as tall as it is wide.
@@RobertCowanDIY Thank you very much. Greetings from Germany.
I like my CR6SE, but it would be nice to have a little more build volume (I know a larger one has been available for a while) … the direct drive extruder would be nice too though.
My 6 came with loose eccentrics too … I have always assumed it was to stop the wheels flats spotting.
Huh, interesting. My CR10 came adjusted. That's a good point, if they were adjusted tight during shipping, they would develop a flat spot. BUT, the manual never told you about them, so most users would just start printing and then post on reddit why they had sloppy prints.
Everyone is still talking about the 1000 Euro Mark 3. In fact, the thing already costs 1159 Euro and that is almost 3 times as much as the Ender S1!
In every hobby there's always diminishing return. Cars, houses, tools, audio, etc. To get a little bit better, it's always a LOT more (once you hit that high value point). I still really like my MK3s, but I'm thinking of replacing my Prusa Mini with an Ender Pro.
would this be pointless for me to buy if i dont print anything massive prints or
If you're not looking for the extra size, definitely go with the Ender S1 Pro. It has a few little upgrades and it's on sale right now: amzn.to/3XFrBZy
@@RobertCowanDIY do u like the s1 pro or plus better
@@monsterstorm78 If you need a larger print volume, the S1 Plus is the one to go with. If you don't need the size and want an all-metal hot-end for printing nylon or hotter filaments, go with the S1 Pro. I think the S1 Pro is a slightly better printer, but the plus is just bigger.
@@RobertCowanDIY such an hard decision for me 😩
@@monsterstorm78 Ha. Do you NEED to print bigger parts? If you don't need to, or haven't found that need already, just get the S1 Pro. It will printer MORE materials, and dealing with a smaller print bed is easier for leveling.
The prusa's are showing there age other then customer service I think the s1 is the way to go unless prusa updates the printer in some way to justify the 1k price tag its just not worth it anymore. Prusa will always have the hardcore fans and there is nothing wrong with that s1 gets my vote.
I'd tend to agree with that. But my only comment is (having owned one), it's just much much easier and more pleasant to use. I have a lot of tools and the Prusa is just like any other tool. I press print and I get a part, no hassle. I've had a LOT of other printers and none have been as user friendly and hands-off as the Prusa. If 3d printing is your ONLY hobby and you have time to fiddle, the Prusa doesn't make sense. I'm not a Prusa fan-boy, but it's a tool I don't have to think about or maintain, so I like it.
@@RobertCowanDIY I agree with ya I had both a mini and mk3s and it was not a bad experience but not anything exciting either. I really liked the mini and I think I would get a couple more if the lead times were not so long. Creality if definitely catching up these days and the prusa xl has a lot of hype to live up to.
I can't stand printers that use the delrin wheels and V slot rails. Almost 8 miles of 3d printed filament on my MK3s and I never have to worry about adjusting the belts or bearings. My MK3s still holds +-.0005" tolerance after nearly 8 miles of filament.
I'm not a big fan of them either, but they save a lot of cost and if you stay up on maintenance, they should work fine for most people. But I agree, I would prefer to keep my MK3s.
I hate imperial measurement more.
@@hayden9944 HAHA. Imagine 'hating' a system of measurement. A lot of people that use imperial also hate it, but I've explained this a million times. I can't go to the store and get a metric tape measure, metric drills/taps are nearly impossible to find (other than online), and metric tools just plain don't exist. I try using metric when I can, but if you live in the US, almost nothing is metric, so you need to use imperial.
@@RobertCowanDIY - I only hate it more then delrin wheels - which I don’t hate that much. I was being cheeky really but I guess I didn’t pull it off.
I understand why it still exists. I’m from the U.K. and everything is metric (apart from miles and stone for some reason), but we can easily purchase any metric or imperial. Don’t US tape measures have both metric and imperial?
+/- 0.0005 lol
I wouldn't call the CR Touch a ripoff. Rather, it is a clone that is far better than the BL Touch. I've used both and find the CR to be better in all aspects.
How so? And I call it a ripoff because they exactly copied the form factor, size, etc.
Hi friend,do you know the brand of 3D printers Longer?You made a very interesting video. We appreciate it. Is there any possibility of our working together?
Ha. If you check my channel, you can see I've reviewed your LK5 printer.
@@RobertCowanDIY Yeah,I notice it.But I'm looking for cooperation on our laser engraving machine. Have you reviewed the RAY5 10W?
I will always simp for creality. They actually try to make something worth buying, instead of charging for iterations
Truth. I was pretty impressed with what they did with the extruder. I would love to see them move past the eccentric nuts and rubber rollers and get rid of the springy bed though.
It would be really nice to see those prints with a filament that actually show imperfections and not hiding them, also a harsh direct light from above would show layer inconsitencies which we barely see with these softboxes used.
I actually specifically chose this filament because it shows imperfections. It's not speckled or textured so it doesn't hide anything and the medium color tends to show more issues. I also do not use softboxes, I have quite harsh garage light! These are just really good prints.
@@RobertCowanDIY the filament does seem speckled though I don't know, but both prints look like they have a very fine texture to them which I find odd if the filament is not like that. And as many shadows I see, this is a very diffused light (even if it's not with softboxes), not harsh at all (there are no deep shadows anywhere around the prints or under your hand)
I could live without the touch screen, since I would add OctoPrint before I even place the order for the printer :).
I use octoprint on all my printers, so the touchscreen isn't really all that relevant, but it's still nice for heating it up or adjusting feedrate when you're actually in front of the printer. But you're right, octoprint kinda negates most all UI issues.
Spring terminals !!!!!!!
first time here, I kept seeing Ryan Reynolds reviewing lol
ha, I don't think so man, but thanks.
For the details accuracy, vs. tollerance, you most probably have a pre-used nozzle on the Prusa, vs. a brand new one on the Ender. A never and cleaner nozzles tends to print much crisper, where a slightly worn one changes extrusion flow and accuracy. Within 1 month the Ender will most likely degrade in details.
On Enders I had to adjust the extrusion steps on every printer, so that print in place tolerances fall into place. Small adjustment that varies from environment and filament.
I'm moreso just looking for ease of use and longevity for business use (don't want to spend hours configuring or problem solving as hours=money) would it just be better to get the Prusa, or would the Ender be almost identical in those terms?
@@Stevieboy7 The prusa is probably a better choice in your case. Almost no matter what you get, you will probably end up getting upgrades for it as you go. And the prusa seems to have quite the community around it.
@@Stevieboy7 I have an Ender 3, Ender 6 and Cr10 since years, the maintenance and hours spent are absolutely minimal considering the base configuration. I add to all my printers OctoPrints for ease of use, that takes its time to setup - not in the weeks, but hours. I think when you configure your printer to your needs, they become much less troublesome and more efficient.
I would say from several years of experience with Creality, they are pretty much much plug and play with little wear and tear. You can have a dead component on even the most expensive printers.
I have never worked with a Prusa, I find them ugly and I never was curious about them.
@@wishusknight3009 My CR 10 is most likely about 5 years old, I had one broken PSU, which was easy to get from local supplier and thats all. All my printers are running nearly 24/7.
Creality is not very good in firmware transparency nor updates, yet the community has some really good people that made kick-ass firmware updates for it, that extend functionality.
The nozzle isn't a factor, I use a diamond nozzle on my Prusa, and these simply do not wear out. There isn't a filament out there that can abrade it. You might have ended up printing a glow in the dark or wood-fill filament, which can erode the nozzle. Under most conditions, a brass nozzle should last quite awhile. But filaments now have more and more additives which can open up the aperture on a brass nozzle.
No other can alternative for prusa
You need to consider the price. If they were both the same price, you're right. But for twice as much money, there are things to consider.
Say it ain’t so. The lowly Ender 3 S1 was better in some areas than the holy Prusa!
So you would prefer a consumer grade printer! Prints right out of the box...and they will learn NOTHING
Too many Ender 3s.
Right? They don't need all those models.
Maybe we are looking at these printers after 10.000h of printing! Oh….firmware…Creality is a joke! Clickbait video title! Prusa is the draft horse not Creality!
Ha. I pretty clearly say if you had the money for a Prusa, that's what I would recommend. But many many people will be in a different price range and this is a good alternative. A LOT of people have had Creality printers going for a long time and had good luck with them. I'll personally stick with my MK3S, but not everyone has the budget for that. Also, take your 'clickbait video title' bullshit elsewhere.
@@RobertCowanDIY this is not what you are talking about in your video! Money….how much payed Creality?!
@@petermarkk1408They gave me a printer for free, but did not pay me for the video nor did they tell me what to say or review this video ahead of time either. I gave the printer to my father in law who's still happily using it.