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WOW! this is an awesome guide. The other information I found wasn't nearly as good as this is. You got me up and running all in about 20 minutes. Thank you so much!
This is the only tutorial that worked for me after almost 15 hours trying to print something. Now my prints are sticking and the bed is leveled correctly. Thank you so much ❤
This video was a life saver for me. was having the hardest time trying to get z-offset to work properly Hopefully more people can find this video. was very helpful and straight to the point.
Watching your video has instantly made my 3D printing bed adjustment 10x easier. The part I was missing was to power it down and manually move the printer head around to level. Seriously, thank you, THANK YOU!! for making this video. I most definitely liked and subscribed.
Very-Very well done. Explained very clearly, gave time to digest instructions, covered everything needed to be successful. Will look forward to more of these videos.
Thank you very much for this. I really appreciate the easy to follow pace of your presentation. It was also well organized. Like many of the other comments, this is the best I’ve seen. Certainly better than anything provided by Creality. I’m anxious to see more of your work.
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What a lifesaver! Things went downhill after I changed the nozzle on my S1 Pro and I couldn't get things dialed in. I didn't realize until I watched this video that I had been doing things precisely backwards (setting the Z offset last...)😄
I was having issues with leveling my Ender 3 S1 Pro and failing to print correctly. Came across this video and figured what the heck not sure it will work but I'll look anyway. You are FANTASTIC! I followed along and did these steps and I'm using a Sonic Pad and was still able to generate a great print that sticks well. Hey this guy knows what he's talking about and fixed my issue. Thanks again.
Yes! This was such a game changer! I know you're probably saying the same things as the other ump-teen tutorials/troubleshoots I watched but you just made so much more sense. Thank you thank you thank you!
Thank you sooo much for this perfect video. Exactly what I needed to get my S3 plus printing. My head still hurts from beating it against the wall before watching this though. Awesome work!
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I have never seen someone level the bed this way. I'll be readjusting my other printer this way AND when I get my s1 plus I'll be doing it this way as well. Seems SO much more effective than any other way I've been shown!
My other printer is a ender 3 v2 Neo and I’m going to have to level it this way too. I tried a silky Pla in it and I’ve had nothing but problems so I’m going to start over with leveling and watch more videos about working with it. After I change the nozzle.
1 year ender user and this is a good starter video for anyone. Should add to make sure your x gantry ain’t sagging before doing this. Also righty raise , lefty lower . The bed.
Thanks much! Sagging Gantry is not a typical problem, but, it is a problem that certainly CAN exist. I cover that in another video, in the Troubleshooting play list. That said, it's the opposite. RIGHTY LOWER, LEFTY RAISE. Tighten the Knob, to lower the bed. Loosen the Knob, to RAISE the bed.
Since I'm seeing it like 10 times i noticed that after the bed leveling you had 3mm offset and when you start to print out the test file you had 1 mm . Why is that ? I have the same model and when i try to level the bed, im tighting the springs before the procedure with the wheels i cannot go any lower than 5mm and i have to go more lower to reach the paper.
It's possible that it's an editing thing, (such as reshooting something, because the sound sucked, Focus Sucked, etc) but I'm not sure. I'd have to watch it again. Keep in mind, it doesn't show the actual Z-OFFSET till it's printing. IF your having to bring the Z-OFFSET down super far, you can raise the bed instead, by loosening the knobs.
I'm a Newbie to 3 D Printing and just received My Ender 3 S1 Pro Saturday thought I did everything to level it and even watched several videos and each time I tried to print a sample print it was a mess squiggly wouldn't stick to the bed until I came across your video ! After your video the Print worked flawlessly. Now what is the best software to run, the Slicer that comes with it or is there something better available ?
I would use CURA. It's the most commonly used, AND.... I teach it. :) ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/ Check out the Pinned comment on that video, to see if maybe can help keep me going. :)
Very good video. Not new to 3d printing, coming from an original Ender 3 I bought 4 years ago which blew it's mainboard 2 years ago (life not letting me sort the new board)
Great directions, they got my bed trammed. One weird thing I noticed was my front left wheel was much looser than the other 3 when I was done. Is this normal? I'm worried that it's too loose and the normal vibrations of the printer will turn it and ruin the tramming.
If it's lose enough that you feel like it can move, it probably will. They should be firm enough to stay put. You could tighten that wheel till it feels better, then tram the rest to it.
Great video very helpful!!! But I have one question. After I do the auto bed leveling at the end it will lower the nozzle touching the build plate not to the same z offset I set it when actually leveling the bed. Is this normal?
Oh man, You should work for Creality! I must have visited a dozen sites to determine how to set the Z offset on my 2 day old Ender3-S1-Plus, you have been the very best at explaining exactly how to do it! Now, if we could just get someone like you to write the Creality users manual, in BLACK INK ON WHITE NON GLOSSY PAPER, (who in the H**L decided gray print font size 0.4 on glossy white paper was just dandy?) this 80 year old "Senior Citizen" would just be tickled pink.!!! Keep up the excellent work my friend! Now, if I could just find a new motherboard for my CR10-V3.......it has a non functioning micro USB jack, have to wiggle the USB cable and curse loudly to get it to work.
After you get into Aux leveling do you hit 1 then set your Z-offset? Then 2-5 are done with the knobs? or in your case the 4 corners while the machine is off?
I prefer to do it manually. Only takes a few min and you are done. Whatever way you do it, you will want to set your offset LAST. The slightest change in Z-Height, will affect your 1st layer. Gotta dial it in last.
At the 2:30 mark of the video I do what you are doing but the z-axis is so high that I can not get it to grab the paper. It will not let me go past -5.00. Any idea what is going on? @@3DRundown
-5 is too much. You may have skipped through, and not seen the part where I used the knobs/springs to bring the bed UP toward the Nozzle, while it's at 0. Then, while the springs are still tight enough to stay put, start the Z adjustment again.
Hi there, I recently purchased the S1 Plus printer and I'm encountering issues with bed leveling. It seems straightforward from the tutorial, but there's something that bothers me. When I manually adjust and then use the autolevel feature before starting the print, it seems like the printer doesn't quite follow the adjustments I've made. I have a feeling that the autoleveling feature might not be working properly because, during the initial layer printing, the Z-axis doesn't seem to move. That's the first concern. Additionally, I've faced instances where, even after completing all the steps, the nozzle got stuck to the bed. Furthermore, during the infill stage of the printing, there's a distinct noise as if the nozzle is colliding with the print. Do you have any tips considering these issues? Also, in the few prints I've done, the infill structure is very visible despite setting it with three perimeters.
@@3DRundown so it felt like the printer kept losing the leveling,even though i was sure i had leveled it properly the prints wouldn't stick to the bed.turns out i had run auto leveling first THEN manually leveled it.I was about to reassemble the whole thing over that lmao
First video about leveling that I understand. I’m still a newbie re Creality Ender machines. How do I remove filament (heating the nozzle), without starting to print I know it is stupid not knowing. TIA
Question.. i just upgraded from the Ender 3 V2. I have used the paper method without issue since day one. Whats the point of the auto leveling if you still have to use the paper method? Seems just like a extra step.
Hello! I followed your assembly video and this video have good prints and good adhesion. Thank you. I have been checking the bed with this method before my next print and the knobs have to be re adjusted. I tram again and the print/adhesion is good. I assume this isn't normal and I might be missing a step somewhere. Do I need to check with the paper after every print? Do you think my initial spring tension isn't right? Thank you again.
Hi, If you have good tramming, and a working Mesh (with ABL via CR-TOUCH, or BL-TOUCH), you should not need to adjust your knobs again for another print. You shouldn't need to touch them much at ALL. I would make sure you started from a snug enough position, that they aren't moving during the print. Also, if you have stock springs, I would upgrade to the Yellow Springs. They hold their tension much better
@@3DRundown Thank you. I trammed the bed earlier, this time tightening them more than my previous tram. After the ABL my print is still coming out good. I will not touch the adjustments and continue printing. I want to ask if it is a good idea to add ABL to the gcode in the slicer I am using for each print? I appreciate your time and help.
All the videos I’ve seen claim you have to preheat the bed before you do the level and do it with the printer powered on, I’ve done it numerous times and still can’t get my printer to consistently print. Going to try this hopefully it will work 🙏
Only thing I would say is that this “test” print only used a small central area of the bed - when you come to do a model that takes up a fairly large surface area, you may find the bed is warped more than the abl can compensate. My S1pro has exactly this issue and it’s driving me nuts. There’s also videos and advice around that you need to modify the start g code in the slicer in order for the printer to actually use the mesh that was created🤔
When printing from a PC there's an M420 s1 command you need to add to the start g code under preferences-printers in the supplied Cura software. Credit Ricky Impey This tells the machine to use the bed mesh in the current print when using a USB cable. Not necessary if printing the file from an sd card in the slot I guess.
@@keithhoughton4308 Ah well that makes a difference then - there was no mention of not needing to do this if printing of a card ( which I always do ) on Ricky Impeys video.
@@gcshawkey It must remember it has just completed a self levelling otherwise what would be the point? Another good tip when tramming is to get rid of the small blob of solidified filament left at the tip by heating, removing the filament supply and then wipe the tip with a cloth. If, like me, you are on the spectrum, you can heat up the bed to take expansion into account. Happy tramming!
You will want to add M420 S1, after G28. I teach this in my course (3DRundown.com), that this video is from. S1 beds are awful. I replaced my S1 and S1 Plus bed, with Glass
do these settings stay or do I have to do this every time I power on the printer? So far I've had to re-do them every time and I want to make sure that I'm not doing something wrong. BTW, I have the Pro not the Plus.
The PRO and PLUS, use the same screen and firmware. Your ABL & Z-OFFSET, save, you do not have to do it again. Make sure you have your G-CODE right. Check my video on GCODE
@@3DRundown ya, this was one that came with the printer I was trying to do... not sure why it wasn't saving, maybe I didn't wait long enough or something. it's printing fine for now but I have not shut it down yet.
Good video, but is there a way to reset the Z so that it doesn't have to be at -3.00 (I believe that where yours was) or -2.65 like mine is. when it is set correctly shouldn't the height be 0.00 or am I way overthinking it?
No. It will always be a Negative #, with 0 being the starting point. What you've really done, is moved your Bed, away from the Nozzle's 0, so, we are moving the hot end, toward the bed, down, from 0.
Hello, Thank you for this video, even there is a question I want to ask you. As I can see the coolin fan is in contact wit the bed ( and paper ) even before the nosle. Now what? ( the printer is brand new ). After done all as in the video at the moment I start the printer and start to print, the nosle ( extrudor ) goes like more than 5 mm up and start to print. Result mess. What can be wrong?
@@3DRundown Hello, Thank you the Z-offset was changed and now it is ok. About the fan, as the holes are round and only a very bit larger as the screw it is not possible to move the fan upwards a bit.
Thanks be g a total newbee (only received the printer today) Creality instuctions too vague and the video too fast. Yours was excellent, well presented and well instructed. My wee bunny is currently printing and so far looks very good. Keep up the good work. Regards from 🏴
So I hit an odd situation; my back wheels will tighten the paper just fine, but my front wheels are pracaly back to free spinning before i can get any feel between the nozzle and paper. Do I have a bent plate or something? Do I need to exchange for another printer?
@@3DRundown Thanks for replying. I finally did get all four corners even, but now the center point doesn't have any grip on the paper. I tried a test print anyway and got no layer adhesion. I really am thinking I got a defective print plate.
I've been trying to get my entire bed level or atleast trying to get the abl to work so that there aren't inconsistencies. Have you tried printing a test with all four corners as well? Finding that I consistently get three corners to work perfectly but the center and back right corner are too far from the bed.
ABL compensates for inconsistencies. Did you follow my Tramming Video? No FF, no skipping steps? I would do that. Also, why test all 4 corners? Does the model you are printing use the entire bed? All 4 corners? Print the model.... adjust for it. If have issues. Don't go nuts with crazy test patterns. I've never even used one myself.
That’s a great guide and thanks. For some reason if I take that mag plate off to remove a print my bed level seems to change and I need to fix it again. I will try this method and see if it changes anything. I just need to work out how to fix the terrible inconsistency with the vertical prints and layer lines I get
I never remove the plate. Let it cool and can usually work the model off easily. Even on adult masks. But, if have to pull or push on the model, it's can certainly ruin things, as even a 0.02mm changes can effect stuff. Check out my tuning video for your other stuff
Now I did exactly as you said in this video -unfortunately the nozzle happend to be to low and I had to ajust the z-level fast. Question - should I start over and ajust the bed just higher than before, i mean raise the z-axe and begin from there. Your videos is super good for us old non-neards
I try to find the right balance of Nerd. 😂😂 If you find your bed is just too low, you can raise it a bit, then re-tram it, Set your Z Offset, run an ABL. But, better yet: before you start a print, to finalize your Offset, manually bring it to Zero, with paper under it, then adjust your Z Offset to meet the paper. When you start a print, that's where the Nozzle will be, and you can baby step from there, Rather than panicking as it grinds into the glass.
@@3DRundown thank you - i can to same conclusion - bring it a little up and start again. but you can't store the z-offset it is properly done automatic, but you can lift the Z -offset manually when printing
Wow! It turns out it's that simple! And do you know why more and more people have problems with this? This is because more and more people ignore physics - i.e. if you lower one corner, the opposite one does not stand still, but rises! Hello - there is a tensioned spring there, which tends in what direction, sideways? Or maybe up?! TLDR You have to manually level the bed (as in the video, with the printer turned off) several or even a dozen times, not just once!!!
Yessir! Sadly, not everyone is blessed with a brain that comprehends these principles, and, even less, make an actual effort to learn. I try to help....
@@3DRundown Hi again! I leveled the hotbed using your method - without any comparison to the basic method or the advice of others on TH-cam. You rulezz! Additionally, I replaced the springs with orange ones from Creality and the knobs with aluminum ones (I also have silicone washers instead of springs - have you used them? Are they better than springs?). Very important: I additionally screwed clamping nuts onto the spring screws, because I discovered that these screws are not secured by anything at the factory and they start to twist very quickly, so from that moment on, leveling will never work again! After leveling, my hotbed is kind of concave in the middle and before auto-leveling, the nozzle distance in the center is greater than at the edges. Although I have the impression that after subsequent levels this disproportion decreases. And when I start printing, the nozzle literally moves against the hotbed and then during printing I have to increase the Z value in the settings. Then the prints come out very accurate. Do you have any advice for this?
I don't like the Silicon, or the locking nuts. I want the ability to adjust at any time. They shouldn't move. I almost never touch my knobs. You'll get better with experience. If the knobs are moving, you may have your bed too high. Start your tramming with them a little lower, which will have the knobs tighter against the spring pressure. they will stay put. Z-OFFSET is only for the very 1st layer. After that 1st layer, the machine will move up the correct layer height. If it's hitting the bed, your Z-OFFSET is too low. Z-OFFSET will always be the last thing you do, after any change, no matter how small. You can use a SKIRT or the 1st layer of a print, to dial it in. If your afraid it may hit the bed, just start with the Z-Offset higher, and then move it down to a working height diring Skirt or 1st layer
Because I want to reduce the amount I need to raise the bed, just to level it. If I don't bring the Nozzle to the bed, I need to bring the bed to the Nozzle. Moving the Nozzle is easier
@@3DRundown That makes sense. I've seen this a couple of times and was puzzled by what seemed counter-intuitive logic. Thanks for the response - much appreciated. (new to 'proper' 3d printing)
Just curious, you turn it off to tram the bed going from one corner to the other, I have been doing it just pressing the four locations on the touch screen in Aux level, so do you turn the printer off just to speed up the process. I don't mind the time it takes doing the movements on its own, or is there a reason to turn the printer off freeing up the motors. I can get the four corners spot on and the centre of the bed is still needing the nozzle considerably lower. I did have a warped bed and with a steel ruler could slide paper under it in the middle easily, now I have a new bed which is straight it seems to still be lower in the middle, any suggestions ??
I turn it off, as a shortcut to Disable the Steppers. Personally, I usually just disable the steppers. But, for a beginner. Turning it off is a sure way to know I get them to disable their steppers. Truth? Remove that bed, and replace it with Glass.
Do different but.. Wanted to see if you could help. I have the S1 and leveled it fine on the standard. I got going on the creality sonic pad and the cooling fan is hitting the bed before the nozzle in the corners... Any idea on what's going on? Thanks
Yea, loosen up the Sprite Hotend, and seat it better. It may be off it's mount, or tilted forward a touch. Loosen up the sprites mount screws, and see if can adjust it back a touch. Do the same for the fan.
New motherboard, when I do the first step, I have to travel over 5.00 of z offset. Is there some setting I'm supposed to set first? (New mobo, new screen kit) I tried to lower the Z axis first, but the printer ignores that when it homes.
I've got an Ender 3 S1 and every time I do this, I get the corners nice and right, but the middle always is lower than the corners. I don't understand what's happening. Is my printer defective or am I doing this wrong?
Your ABL mesh should handle that, but, some peeps have had issues with S1 beds. Consider swapping to glass. My S1 Bed sucked. I did glass and never looked back
thanks for the tutorial. followed it and printed my first piece. had to adjust the z-axis a couple times but seems good. how do i know if the z-axis good while its printing? like what should i be looking at to see if its too close or too far while its printing each layer?
When it comes to Z-Height, Once the 1st layer is good, the rest is typically good as well, (unless you have a physical issue, causing problems with movement). Focus on getting a clean 1st layer.
@@3DRundown i was at 87% and it popped off the bed. not sure what happened. but besides that, it looks decent. just a couple strings. printing a cube now. still using the cheap creality filament also. have a kg of sunlu pla that ill be using
Yep. My S1 Plus is running the latest firmware from creality, and my S1, is running the far superior Mriscoc firmware. You are putting the firmware folders in the root of the card, card in machine, turning machine on, and no update? Stays the older version?
So much easier and faster to do it manual. Can zip around and check many times quickly. I also don't trust the machine to move on it's own power, 100% accurately. I know if the steppers are off, and I just slide it over, it went without any micromovement up, down, crossways, whatever. But mainly, because... my method WORKS, so I stick to it. :)
I have heard the Stepper motors can build up a charge of static electricity in them and by pushing them too fast when switched off can damage them. I saw another Utube presenter reviewing a Laser engraver and pushed the laser along the axis and blew the motor during the review. I always push very slowly just in case. You should do some research just to be on the safe side. You don't want to be giving advise to people where they could damage there Stepper motors. Your review was quite good and thorough.
@@alanwright5437 Well, if being a top 6% Etsy shop, with 17 3D printers, that run around the clock 7 days a week, making HUNDREDS of items a week, being a "Top Rated" Udemy 3D Printing Instructor, and running 3D Printing Groups on FB, where 1000's of Printer Peeps, discuss this kind of thing (and turn to me for help), counts... I'll consider my research done. That said, yup, if you move a belt fast enough, your screen will turn on. We are making small, slow movements, one at a time. You do whatever you feel comfortable with.
Hi. Great video for initial setup but I'm not sure that the abl mesh is used when printing via USB. Isn't an M420 command required to tell it to use the mesh? Also, where is your 3mm z offset measured from?
@@keithhoughton4308 Yes. In CURA, in your GCODE, (or any other slicer), you will need M420 S1, after G28. I teach this is the CURA section, of my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM, which this video clip is from. Your Z Offset, is taken from ZERO. Watch my video again, where I Set the Z. HOME, MOVE TO 0, THEN move your Z down, till it's good. That is your #
Hey man, very late reply here. But I have a question. When i did the test print rabbit it didn't make a circle around mine like yours? Is this normal? How do I fix it?
Yup. It has no baring on the print. Can be helpful, if you are adjusting Z-OFFSET, and such, as it gives you a look at the 1st layer, and time to adjust, prior to the model starting
Hi, I can’t get my printer to lower in the Center not even with a -5 offset. After level the rest I tried to print and it dug into the magnetic strip. Finally got it to print and it messed up my magnetic screen, full of groofs, get it filially to print and first could not get the print off had to scrape it off. Second one comes loos halfway through the print. Please advice?
Hi. I feel like a step is missing orbthings are a bit differentbfor the s1. I dont have that screen with the 4 corners and center. Aftervyou home are you dropping the Z the 10 mm that it raises when it homes. Im a bit confused
I could use some help. My printer ran fine for over a year. Started having some printing issues so I decided to change the nozzle. Now it will not home properly..
I finished leveling and all that, and noticed it didn’t save my z axis so I had to stop and restart my print a few times and keep adjusting the z. Not sure what I did wrong but so far it’s printing well. I had a tiiiiiny bit of stringing just before I adjusted one more down but so far so good.
@@3DRundown I did. My cat print came out beautiful. I don’t want to have to adjust the z every time I print but at least I know what number to put it on 🤷🏻♂️
Hello, please help, I have an Ender 3 S1 pro printer. I changed the nozzle and when I try to level the bed, it lowers the extruder and the nozzle sticks against the bed and makes a very ugly noise, the cr touch works, I put a book on the bed and it did those 2 steps well. I raise the z axis. But when I tell him to level again he crashes into the bed. And raising the z-axis while making noise from being in contact with the bed makes me afraid to wait so long for the z-axis adjustment window to activate. I don't know if the limit switch needs to be adjusted. Thanks in advance 🤗
I ran through this process over 5 times, and every new print the Z Axis resets itself on too high of an offet about 1mm from the bed. this is after I have Leveled and tram the bed while heated. all my spring adjustments are proper. I am at a complete loss for what to do, other than trick the printer and hastily adjust the bed as it starts the print. This is my 3rd 3D printer so I am by no means an expert but this one is throwing me for a real loop.
Your Z Height (Z Offset) shouldn't be changing. During your first layer, baby step your Z-Offset down, till it looks and feels good. You should be able to rub the layer. *Save* and it should stay
@@3DRundown thanks for the reply mate. An update I checked the start G code default in cura for the Ender 3 pro, and there were 2 lines of G1 Z ( note says to avoid scraping the build plate.. which makes no sense if it's all leveled properly). Long story short, I deleted those completely. And now it seems my prints are okay
I would've skipped the "Pro" version for all the hustle. My Ender 3 stock has been chugging along perfectly. Besides the plastic nozzle cover I have. No complaints with it
after creating the mesh the distance between nozzle and bed is different than before. Is either to high or pushing the build plate down, it does not stay the same... I find it very hard to level this printer :/
Maybe you can offer some advise, I level my bed, and it prints perfectly, the print is practically flawless, MY issue is, even if I immediately try to print again leveling is WAY OFF, as in it was so bad it gouged the bed, and had to be replaced, this is EVERY time I go to print, I HAVE to relevel after every print, Ive gotten quite good at it, but its problematic when I am making something that has multiple print sessions, and has to be leveled every time... any assistance you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I have checked every nut, bolt, eccentric nut, belt, tightener, even broke the machine down to its core components, IE when I first got it to eliminate any mistakes. the issue persists...
Which machine we working with? This is a Z-Offset problem. You want to adjust the Z-Offset (aka Z-Height) to start at the proper height. If you do that, and it still happens, you may have a problem where your Z is "Drooping" do to eccentric being too loose. If you don't have a BL, or CR, Touch, Get one
If it's gouging the bed, the Z-OFFSET is wrong. Have you confirmed, when it happens, if it's keeping it's Z-OFFSET setting, or if it changed? When you have the Z-OFFSET where you want it, make sure it's saving. Make sure you are using your ABL Mesh, by having "M420 S1" in your GCODE after G28 Make sure when you level, you start with your knobs tight enough. If they are loose, and they loosen themselves the bed will raise.
@3D Rundown so, I used the Gcode, and it seems ro have resolved, got thru about 4-5 prints before I had to relevel. Thanks for your input! I appreciate it, and you've earned a sub.
Textured PEO Sucks. Use Glass, or Smooth PEI. Also, be sure the bed is clean. 99% of adhesion problems, is your BED NOT CLEAN, or Z-OFFSET too high. Did you set your Z-OFFSET along with me here on this video? Also: th-cam.com/video/pP36ozrfRQ0/w-d-xo.html
@@monsterstorm78 The PRO is very old, and small, and about $99, the plus, is very new, and LARGE, and $500. I love my Pro, especially for the price. Not sure the PLUS is worth $500, but, it's a much more modern, and larger machine
For some reason when i turn all of the wheels to the right and try to lower the z offset the gap is too big. I am new to this hobby and i dont know what to do
Could be many things, but it's "spaghetti" because the filament is just oozing out and being dragged around by the nozzle, not sticking to anything. If that happens due to the model separating from the bed, it can be a tramming thing, or a Z-Offset thing. Proper Z Offset is critical, even with a well "leveled" bed
Unless something has changes, the pro and plus don't have the wizard. But even still, I prefer to feel it out myself, but you can totally use it. It can be a little slow, especially to use it for an initial setup. It's faster to use it for an adjustment after. But, mainly, I try to teach methods anyone cam use.
@@3DRundown I'm using the pro firmware by mriscoc on my standard S1 Thanks for your videos. I think a glass bed is going to be needed to fix my issues. Still having problems after tramming, creating a 9x9 mesh and setting z-offset
MRISCOC makes great firmware. The S1 has some weird ABL issues. My S1+ doesn't have any problems at all, but my S1, is a pain to get a working mesh. Glass is def best, IMO.
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By far the most effective bed leveling tutorial on youtube. I couldn't recommend this video more 👍👍
WOW! this is an awesome guide. The other information I found wasn't nearly as good as this is. You got me up and running all in about 20 minutes. Thank you so much!
Thanks so much. This one was on my to-do list for a long time...
I have to agree, and thank you very much.
This is wonderful. Thank you very much for the very straight forward guide.
This is the only tutorial that worked for me after almost 15 hours trying to print something.
Now my prints are sticking and the bed is leveled correctly.
Thank you so much ❤
I love hearing this. Awesome. Very welcome!
Same!I already wanted to return it! Thank you @3DRundown
This video was a life saver for me. was having the hardest time trying to get z-offset to work properly
Hopefully more people can find this video. was very helpful and straight to the point.
Thanks so much! Means allot. Happy to help. Feel free to share it.
Consider my Udemy Course "3D Rundown"
3DRUNDOWN.COM
oh the irony
You the real MVP, @GreggAdventure - after two other videos things weren't panning out. This really did the trick!
Thanks so much! Makes my day.
Watching your video has instantly made my 3D printing bed adjustment 10x easier. The part I was missing was to power it down and manually move the printer head around to level.
Seriously, thank you, THANK YOU!! for making this video. I most definitely liked and subscribed.
Fantastic. Love it. Consider a Super Thanks, using my affiliate links. or becoming a Member, to help keep me going. ⭐️
Very-Very well done. Explained very clearly, gave time to digest instructions, covered everything needed to be successful. Will look forward to more of these videos.
Thank you very much for this. I really appreciate the easy to follow pace of your presentation. It was also well organized. Like many of the other comments, this is the best I’ve seen. Certainly better than anything provided by Creality. I’m anxious to see more of your work.
Thanks so much. There is ALLOT to see here! I teach as if I'm teaching myself.... I need to be talked to, as if I'm 5. 😂🤣 Welcome. :)
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What a lifesaver! Things went downhill after I changed the nozzle on my S1 Pro and I couldn't get things dialed in. I didn't realize until I watched this video that I had been doing things precisely backwards (setting the Z offset last...)😄
Epic. Happy to help. In my experience, most people go about this wrong. I do my best to help right the ship!
I was having issues with leveling my Ender 3 S1 Pro and failing to print correctly. Came across this video and figured what the heck not sure it will work but I'll look anyway. You are FANTASTIC! I followed along and did these steps and I'm using a Sonic Pad and was still able to generate a great print that sticks well. Hey this guy knows what he's talking about and fixed my issue. Thanks again.
Very welcome! Love to hear this. Consider a "Super Thanks" to help keep this channel going. :)
After so many videos, you absolutely win. Thank you!
Very welcome. Happy to get you rollin!
Helped me set this up perfectly in time for Christmas morning
Yes! This was such a game changer! I know you're probably saying the same things as the other ump-teen tutorials/troubleshoots I watched but you just made so much more sense. Thank you thank you thank you!
I think my methods are better than the other ump-teen nerds. 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Got one of these arriving within one week. Thanks for putting this up.
Thank you sooo much for this perfect video. Exactly what I needed to get my S3 plus printing. My head still hurts from beating it against the wall before watching this though. Awesome work!
Welcome! Great to get you going. Consider this one as well: th-cam.com/video/pP36ozrfRQ0/w-d-xo.html
Outstanding! You rock at this. I love the 3 part checklist! Common sense. Great
Thanks so much!
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Glad I found this video i was getting frustrated. great tutorial
Until I watch this video, I was prepared to give up, now by following the steps shown, my printer finally works as intended
Awesome. I love hearing that. Welcome to the channel. Consider a Super Thanks, or becomming a Member, to help me, continue to help others. :)
thank you!!!! sir u solved my problem!!!!!! so many videos out there that dont show ur steps!!!!!!!! ty ty ty ty ty👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I got you! Consider checking out the "Pinned Comment" on this video, to help keep this channel going. :)
Brilliant video… clear, well explained instructions….. thank you….
Very welcome. Thanks for being here
best video explaining how to level the bed of this printer, thank you, keep the good work
Thanks so much! I'm considering adding more. Learn with me on UDEMY: "3D RUNDOWN" 3DRUNDOWN.COM
I have never seen someone level the bed this way. I'll be readjusting my other printer this way AND when I get my s1 plus I'll be doing it this way as well. Seems SO much more effective than any other way I've been shown!
I promise, this is the way. Let me know how you do! S1+ is a great machine. Prints adult size masks in Silk Silver, cleaner than my P1P
My other printer is a ender 3 v2 Neo and I’m going to have to level it this way too. I tried a silky Pla in it and I’ve had nothing but problems so I’m going to start over with leveling and watch more videos about working with it. After I change the nozzle.
Almost everything I print is Silk PLA. You'll be OK, but yes... this is the way, friend. :) Good luck!
1 year ender user and this is a good starter video for anyone. Should add to make sure your x gantry ain’t sagging before doing this.
Also righty raise , lefty lower . The bed.
Thanks much!
Sagging Gantry is not a typical problem, but, it is a problem that certainly CAN exist. I cover that in another video, in the Troubleshooting play list.
That said, it's the opposite. RIGHTY LOWER, LEFTY RAISE. Tighten the Knob, to lower the bed. Loosen the Knob, to RAISE the bed.
Thank you for this video ! It helped me A LOT !
Very good video. Been printing on a bed with out springs so this was helpful on my new S1 Pro
THANK YOU !! Now this is starting guide !
Since I'm seeing it like 10 times i noticed that after the bed leveling you had 3mm offset and when you start to print out the test file you had 1 mm . Why is that ?
I have the same model and when i try to level the bed, im tighting the springs before the procedure with the wheels i cannot go any lower than 5mm and i have to go more lower to reach the paper.
It's possible that it's an editing thing, (such as reshooting something, because the sound sucked, Focus Sucked, etc) but I'm not sure. I'd have to watch it again. Keep in mind, it doesn't show the actual Z-OFFSET till it's printing. IF your having to bring the Z-OFFSET down super far, you can raise the bed instead, by loosening the knobs.
I'm a Newbie to 3 D Printing and just received My Ender 3 S1 Pro Saturday thought I did everything to level it and even watched several videos and each time I tried to print a sample print it was a mess squiggly wouldn't stick to the bed until I came across your video ! After your video the Print worked flawlessly. Now what is the best software to run, the Slicer that comes with it or is there something better available ?
I would use CURA. It's the most commonly used, AND.... I teach it. :) ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/
Check out the Pinned comment on that video, to see if maybe can help keep me going. :)
Subscribed. Thank you for this video!
Welcome. :)
Thank you. Excellent video, excellent explanation, easy to follow.
What G-Code would you recommend? G29, or M420 s1 Z10?
No G29
JUST "M420 S1" after G28
@@3DRundown Thanks!
Thank you! You were very helpful!
Very welcome!
Very good video. Not new to 3d printing, coming from an original Ender 3 I bought 4 years ago which blew it's mainboard 2 years ago (life not letting me sort the new board)
Great directions, they got my bed trammed. One weird thing I noticed was my front left wheel was much looser than the other 3 when I was done. Is this normal? I'm worried that it's too loose and the normal vibrations of the printer will turn it and ruin the tramming.
If it's lose enough that you feel like it can move, it probably will. They should be firm enough to stay put. You could tighten that wheel till it feels better, then tram the rest to it.
Very informative Thank You
Hey, great instructions, well done, just a question, would you not have to set you Z-offset again after leveling or after the mesh is done?
Yes. Z-Offset is always your final move
THANK YOU!
this video helped me so much but every time i do one side it undoos the other. do you know how to fix that?
much smaller movements on the wheels, Down on one side, will bring the other side up. make a few passes, making very small movements
@@3DRundown Ok, thank you for helping me!
Great video very helpful!!! But I have one question. After I do the auto bed leveling at the end it will lower the nozzle touching the build plate not to the same z offset I set it when actually leveling the bed. Is this normal?
It will only return to your Z-Offset when:
PRINTING
Manually moved to "0"
Oh man, You should work for Creality! I must have visited a dozen sites to determine how to set the Z offset on my 2 day old Ender3-S1-Plus, you have been the very best at explaining exactly how to do it! Now, if we could just get someone like you to write the Creality users manual, in BLACK INK ON WHITE NON GLOSSY PAPER, (who in the H**L decided gray print font size 0.4 on glossy white paper was just dandy?) this 80 year old "Senior Citizen" would just be tickled pink.!!! Keep up the excellent work my friend!
Now, if I could just find a new motherboard for my CR10-V3.......it has a non functioning micro USB jack, have to wiggle the USB cable and curse loudly to get it to work.
After you get into Aux leveling do you hit 1 then set your Z-offset? Then 2-5 are done with the knobs? or in your case the 4 corners while the machine is off?
I prefer to do it manually. Only takes a few min and you are done. Whatever way you do it, you will want to set your offset LAST. The slightest change in Z-Height, will affect your 1st layer. Gotta dial it in last.
At the 2:30 mark of the video I do what you are doing but the z-axis is so high that I can not get it to grab the paper. It will not let me go past -5.00. Any idea what is going on?
@@3DRundown
-5 is too much. You may have skipped through, and not seen the part where I used the knobs/springs to bring the bed UP toward the Nozzle, while it's at 0. Then, while the springs are still tight enough to stay put, start the Z adjustment again.
Nice Video! Thank You!
Hi there, I recently purchased the S1 Plus printer and I'm encountering issues with bed leveling. It seems straightforward from the tutorial, but there's something that bothers me. When I manually adjust and then use the autolevel feature before starting the print, it seems like the printer doesn't quite follow the adjustments I've made. I have a feeling that the autoleveling feature might not be working properly because, during the initial layer printing, the Z-axis doesn't seem to move. That's the first concern.
Additionally, I've faced instances where, even after completing all the steps, the nozzle got stuck to the bed. Furthermore, during the infill stage of the printing, there's a distinct noise as if the nozzle is colliding with the print. Do you have any tips considering these issues?
Also, in the few prints I've done, the infill structure is very visible despite setting it with three perimeters.
So, I don't have to have the filament pulled in beforehand.... Bought it for me and there are still a few questions 😀
Nope. Can do it with no Filament at all
The video's really did help me out, you deserve it lol
Epic, Thank you! Means allot, and super helpful. 🤜🏼🤛🏼
@@3DRundown so it felt like the printer kept losing the leveling,even though i was sure i had leveled it properly the prints wouldn't stick to the bed.turns out i had run auto leveling first THEN manually leveled it.I was about to reassemble the whole thing over that lmao
First video about leveling that I understand. I’m still a newbie re Creality Ender machines. How do I remove filament (heating the nozzle), without starting to print I know it is stupid not knowing. TIA
You can manually heat the hot end at the machines screen. Poke around and you will find it. th-cam.com/video/Oc-hf02POFg/w-d-xo.html
Question.. i just upgraded from the Ender 3 V2. I have used the paper method without issue since day one. Whats the point of the auto leveling if you still have to use the paper method? Seems just like a extra step.
Hey there. I got you: th-cam.com/video/yg2zVAakeGU/w-d-xo.html
Great video man!
Thanks so much!
Hello! I followed your assembly video and this video have good prints and good adhesion. Thank you.
I have been checking the bed with this method before my next print and the knobs have to be re adjusted. I tram again and the print/adhesion is good.
I assume this isn't normal and I might be missing a step somewhere. Do I need to check with the paper after every print? Do you think my initial spring tension isn't right? Thank you again.
Hi, If you have good tramming, and a working Mesh (with ABL via CR-TOUCH, or BL-TOUCH), you should not need to adjust your knobs again for another print. You shouldn't need to touch them much at ALL. I would make sure you started from a snug enough position, that they aren't moving during the print. Also, if you have stock springs, I would upgrade to the Yellow Springs. They hold their tension much better
@@3DRundown Thank you. I trammed the bed earlier, this time tightening them more than my previous tram. After the ABL my print is still coming out good.
I will not touch the adjustments and continue printing.
I want to ask if it is a good idea to add ABL to the gcode in the slicer I am using for each print? I appreciate your time and help.
@@mattyt531 In order for your machine to use the Mesh, you need "M420 S1" after G28. I wouldn't have it run a level. Only do that when needed
why didnt you save the new mesh? does it do it on its own on this one?
Thanks!
Welcome! Appreciate you. 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thank you worked great! How did you get the countdown timer on yours? 😅
Which countdown? Hope I'm not missing a joke...
@@3DRundown no sorry I'm not joking. On my s1 pro I don't have the estimated printed time remaining. I only have time elapsed.
All the videos I’ve seen claim you have to preheat the bed before you do the level and do it with the printer powered on, I’ve done it numerous times and still can’t get my printer to consistently print. Going to try this hopefully it will work 🙏
My way works. 👍🏼
I wish I saw this three months ago. Where did you get the red leveling wheels?
They come stock, on the S1 Plus. Here they are: amzn.to/3LPCDHz
Only thing I would say is that this “test” print only used a small central area of the bed - when you come to do a model that takes up a fairly large surface area, you may find the bed is warped more than the abl can compensate. My S1pro has exactly this issue and it’s driving me nuts. There’s also videos and advice around that you need to modify the start g code in the slicer in order for the printer to actually use the mesh that was created🤔
When printing from a PC there's an M420 s1 command you need to add to the start g code under preferences-printers in the supplied Cura software. Credit Ricky Impey This tells the machine to use the bed mesh in the current print when using a USB cable. Not necessary if printing the file from an sd card in the slot I guess.
@@keithhoughton4308 Ah well that makes a difference then - there was no mention of not needing to do this if printing of a card ( which I always do ) on Ricky Impeys video.
@@gcshawkey It must remember it has just completed a self levelling otherwise what would be the point?
Another good tip when tramming is to get rid of the small blob of solidified filament left at the tip by heating, removing the filament supply and then wipe the tip with a cloth. If, like me, you are on the spectrum, you can heat up the bed to take expansion into account.
Happy tramming!
You will want to add M420 S1, after G28. I teach this in my course (3DRundown.com), that this video is from.
S1 beds are awful. I replaced my S1 and S1 Plus bed, with Glass
do these settings stay or do I have to do this every time I power on the printer? So far I've had to re-do them every time and I want to make sure that I'm not doing something wrong. BTW, I have the Pro not the Plus.
The PRO and PLUS, use the same screen and firmware. Your ABL & Z-OFFSET, save, you do not have to do it again. Make sure you have your G-CODE right. Check my video on GCODE
@@3DRundown ya, this was one that came with the printer I was trying to do... not sure why it wasn't saving, maybe I didn't wait long enough or something. it's printing fine for now but I have not shut it down yet.
Good video, but is there a way to reset the Z so that it doesn't have to be at -3.00 (I believe that where yours was) or -2.65 like mine is. when it is set correctly shouldn't the height be 0.00 or am I way overthinking it?
No. It will always be a Negative #, with 0 being the starting point. What you've really done, is moved your Bed, away from the Nozzle's 0, so, we are moving the hot end, toward the bed, down, from 0.
When you set the z offset at the beginning do you have the hotend and bed heated up please?
I do z offset with only the bed hot.
Hello, Thank you for this video, even there is a question I want to ask you. As I can see the coolin fan is in contact wit the bed ( and paper ) even before the nosle. Now what? ( the printer is brand new ). After done all as in the video at the moment I start the printer and start to print, the nosle ( extrudor ) goes like more than 5 mm up and start to print. Result mess. What can be wrong?
just loosen the mount screws on the Sprite fan and adjust it upward. For the print being too high, set your Z-OFFSET. Follow me in this video on that
@@3DRundown Hello, Thank you the Z-offset was changed and now it is ok. About the fan, as the holes are round and only a very bit larger as the screw it is not possible to move the fan upwards a bit.
Loosen the entire sprite, and re-seat it.
Thanks be g a total newbee (only received the printer today) Creality instuctions too vague and the video too fast. Yours was excellent, well presented and well instructed. My wee bunny is currently printing and so far looks very good. Keep up the good work. Regards from 🏴
Welcome to the party. Stick around. This part will take you some time. Be patient. Move slowley. Learn how to feel it out... You'll get there. :)
So I hit an odd situation; my back wheels will tighten the paper just fine, but my front wheels are pracaly back to free spinning before i can get any feel between the nozzle and paper. Do I have a bent plate or something? Do I need to exchange for another printer?
Put your front side where you want it, bring the back side down to match. Bring your Z-Offset to match. Tram. Fine tune your Z Offset
@@3DRundown Thanks for replying. I finally did get all four corners even, but now the center point doesn't have any grip on the paper. I tried a test print anyway and got no layer adhesion. I really am thinking I got a defective print plate.
Did you run an ABL last? It will compensate for that.
Great video. My z was way off and there wasnt enough room to dial it in.
Hey just wanted to let ya know found your stuff great tips you have goin gonna use em for my 3d prints keep at it 👍like and subbed
Thanks so much! For more, hop onto my Udemy course, and private FB Group! 3DRUNDOWN.COM
I've been trying to get my entire bed level or atleast trying to get the abl to work so that there aren't inconsistencies. Have you tried printing a test with all four corners as well? Finding that I consistently get three corners to work perfectly but the center and back right corner are too far from the bed.
ABL compensates for inconsistencies. Did you follow my Tramming Video? No FF, no skipping steps? I would do that.
Also, why test all 4 corners? Does the model you are printing use the entire bed? All 4 corners? Print the model.... adjust for it. If have issues. Don't go nuts with crazy test patterns. I've never even used one myself.
Also, have a peak at my Z Offset Video
That’s a great guide and thanks. For some reason if I take that mag plate off to remove a print my bed level seems to change and I need to fix it again. I will try this method and see if it changes anything. I just need to work out how to fix the terrible inconsistency with the vertical prints and layer lines I get
I never remove the plate. Let it cool and can usually work the model off easily. Even on adult masks. But, if have to pull or push on the model, it's can certainly ruin things, as even a 0.02mm changes can effect stuff. Check out my tuning video for your other stuff
Now I did exactly as you said in this video -unfortunately the nozzle happend to be to low and I had to ajust the z-level fast. Question - should I start over and ajust the bed just higher than before, i mean raise the z-axe and begin from there. Your videos is super good for us old non-neards
I try to find the right balance of Nerd. 😂😂 If you find your bed is just too low, you can raise it a bit, then re-tram it, Set your Z Offset, run an ABL. But, better yet: before you start a print, to finalize your Offset, manually bring it to Zero, with paper under it, then adjust your Z Offset to meet the paper. When you start a print, that's where the Nozzle will be, and you can baby step from there, Rather than panicking as it grinds into the glass.
@@3DRundown thank you - i can to same conclusion - bring it a little up and start again. but you can't store the z-offset it is properly done automatic, but you can lift the Z -offset manually when printing
Wow! It turns out it's that simple! And do you know why more and more people have problems with this? This is because more and more people ignore physics - i.e. if you lower one corner, the opposite one does not stand still, but rises! Hello - there is a tensioned spring there, which tends in what direction, sideways? Or maybe up?!
TLDR
You have to manually level the bed (as in the video, with the printer turned off) several or even a dozen times, not just once!!!
Yessir! Sadly, not everyone is blessed with a brain that comprehends these principles, and, even less, make an actual effort to learn. I try to help....
@@3DRundown You're doing a great job! Keep doing it! There is a saying that „a person learns all his life and still dies stupid” 🤷🏼♂️
I feel stupid on a regular basis. Always learning
@@3DRundown Hi again! I leveled the hotbed using your method - without any comparison to the basic method or the advice of others on TH-cam. You rulezz! Additionally, I replaced the springs with orange ones from Creality and the knobs with aluminum ones (I also have silicone washers instead of springs - have you used them? Are they better than springs?). Very important: I additionally screwed clamping nuts onto the spring screws, because I discovered that these screws are not secured by anything at the factory and they start to twist very quickly, so from that moment on, leveling will never work again! After leveling, my hotbed is kind of concave in the middle and before auto-leveling, the nozzle distance in the center is greater than at the edges. Although I have the impression that after subsequent levels this disproportion decreases. And when I start printing, the nozzle literally moves against the hotbed and then during printing I have to increase the Z value in the settings. Then the prints come out very accurate. Do you have any advice for this?
I don't like the Silicon, or the locking nuts. I want the ability to adjust at any time. They shouldn't move. I almost never touch my knobs. You'll get better with experience. If the knobs are moving, you may have your bed too high. Start your tramming with them a little lower, which will have the knobs tighter against the spring pressure. they will stay put. Z-OFFSET is only for the very 1st layer. After that 1st layer, the machine will move up the correct layer height. If it's hitting the bed, your Z-OFFSET is too low. Z-OFFSET will always be the last thing you do, after any change, no matter how small. You can use a SKIRT or the 1st layer of a print, to dial it in. If your afraid it may hit the bed, just start with the Z-Offset higher, and then move it down to a working height diring Skirt or 1st layer
Good tips, but why not leave the Z offset until after levelling the bed?
Because I want to reduce the amount I need to raise the bed, just to level it. If I don't bring the Nozzle to the bed, I need to bring the bed to the Nozzle. Moving the Nozzle is easier
@@3DRundown That makes sense.
I've seen this a couple of times and was puzzled by what seemed counter-intuitive logic.
Thanks for the response - much appreciated.
(new to 'proper' 3d printing)
did you put a touch screen on your S1? is mine replaceable with the model unit that you have in this video @ 1:19?
No, touch screen kinda sucks. I left the knob screen on my S1. It has better firmware options. This S1+ comes with the touch screen, I still use it.
@@3DRundown thx for saving me from a useless touch screen rabbit hole ;)
Just curious, you turn it off to tram the bed going from one corner to the other, I have been doing it just pressing the four locations on the touch screen in Aux level, so do you turn the printer off just to speed up the process. I don't mind the time it takes doing the movements on its own, or is there a reason to turn the printer off freeing up the motors.
I can get the four corners spot on and the centre of the bed is still needing the nozzle considerably lower. I did have a warped bed and with a steel ruler could slide paper under it in the middle easily, now I have a new bed which is straight it seems to still be lower in the middle, any suggestions ??
I turn it off, as a shortcut to Disable the Steppers. Personally, I usually just disable the steppers. But, for a beginner. Turning it off is a sure way to know I get them to disable their steppers. Truth? Remove that bed, and replace it with Glass.
Do different but.. Wanted to see if you could help. I have the S1 and leveled it fine on the standard. I got going on the creality sonic pad and the cooling fan is hitting the bed before the nozzle in the corners... Any idea on what's going on? Thanks
Yea, loosen up the Sprite Hotend, and seat it better. It may be off it's mount, or tilted forward a touch. Loosen up the sprites mount screws, and see if can adjust it back a touch. Do the same for the fan.
New motherboard, when I do the first step, I have to travel over 5.00 of z offset.
Is there some setting I'm supposed to set first? (New mobo, new screen kit)
I tried to lower the Z axis first, but the printer ignores that when it homes.
The printer will home to 10mm. Z Offset is for Printing only. Loosen your knobs and raise the bed, if it's that low
I've got an Ender 3 S1 and every time I do this, I get the corners nice and right, but the middle always is lower than the corners. I don't understand what's happening. Is my printer defective or am I doing this wrong?
Your ABL mesh should handle that, but, some peeps have had issues with S1 beds. Consider swapping to glass. My S1 Bed sucked. I did glass and never looked back
Watching this hoping it'll help me once I get home. My nozzle has been scratching the bed recently 😭😭
It's your Z-Offset. Focus on that
thanks for the tutorial. followed it and printed my first piece. had to adjust the z-axis a couple times but seems good. how do i know if the z-axis good while its printing? like what should i be looking at to see if its too close or too far while its printing each layer?
When it comes to Z-Height, Once the 1st layer is good, the rest is typically good as well, (unless you have a physical issue, causing problems with movement). Focus on getting a clean 1st layer.
@@3DRundown thanks. finishing up a benchy right now. so far it looks good
@@essentiallites Super. I'm working on a lecture on "Supports" in Cura, to add to the course. Hopefully Tomorrow. Good luck with the Benchy!
@@3DRundown i was at 87% and it popped off the bed. not sure what happened. but besides that, it looks decent. just a couple strings. printing a cube now. still using the cheap creality filament also. have a kg of sunlu pla that ill be using
It happens. Could be a few reasons why. I would give the contact area a quick IPA wipe, and try again. ditch that Sample and use real PLA
A little off topic, but have you been able to update the firmware on this machine? I can’t get the machine to recognize the update on the SD card.
Yep. My S1 Plus is running the latest firmware from creality, and my S1, is running the far superior Mriscoc firmware.
You are putting the firmware folders in the root of the card, card in machine, turning machine on, and no update? Stays the older version?
Sadly, the S1 Pro and Plus firmware is crap. I hope to replace my screen so I can run Mriscoc on my Plus.
Is there any reason you didn't use the 5 touch buttons on the touch screen to move the bed during auxiliary levelling? That's what they are there for.
So much easier and faster to do it manual. Can zip around and check many times quickly. I also don't trust the machine to move on it's own power, 100% accurately. I know if the steppers are off, and I just slide it over, it went without any micromovement up, down, crossways, whatever. But mainly, because... my method WORKS, so I stick to it. :)
I have heard the Stepper motors can build up a charge of static electricity in them and by pushing them too fast when switched off can damage them. I saw another Utube presenter reviewing a Laser engraver and pushed the laser along the axis and blew the motor during the review. I always push very slowly just in case. You should do some research just to be on the safe side. You don't want to be giving advise to people where they could damage there Stepper motors. Your review was quite good and thorough.
@@alanwright5437 Well, if being a top 6% Etsy shop, with 17 3D printers, that run around the clock 7 days a week, making HUNDREDS of items a week, being a "Top Rated" Udemy 3D Printing Instructor, and running 3D Printing Groups on FB, where 1000's of Printer Peeps, discuss this kind of thing (and turn to me for help), counts... I'll consider my research done. That said, yup, if you move a belt fast enough, your screen will turn on. We are making small, slow movements, one at a time. You do whatever you feel comfortable with.
Hi. Great video for initial setup but I'm not sure that the abl mesh is used when printing via USB. Isn't an M420 command required to tell it to use the mesh? Also, where is your 3mm z offset measured from?
@@keithhoughton4308 Yes. In CURA, in your GCODE, (or any other slicer), you will need M420 S1, after G28. I teach this is the CURA section, of my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM, which this video clip is from. Your Z Offset, is taken from ZERO. Watch my video again, where I Set the Z. HOME, MOVE TO 0, THEN move your Z down, till it's good. That is your #
Hey man, very late reply here. But I have a question. When i did the test print rabbit it didn't make a circle around mine like yours? Is this normal? How do I fix it?
The Skirt? Total non issue. It's added (or not) during slicing
@@3DRundown Oh, ok thanks. Print came out fine anyways.
Yup. It has no baring on the print. Can be helpful, if you are adjusting Z-OFFSET, and such, as it gives you a look at the 1st layer, and time to adjust, prior to the model starting
Hi, I can’t get my printer to lower in the Center not even with a -5 offset. After level the rest I tried to print and it dug into the magnetic strip. Finally got it to print and it messed up my magnetic screen, full of groofs, get it filially to print and first could not get the print off had to scrape it off. Second one comes loos halfway through the print. Please advice?
Dug in cause Z-Offset too low. Your knobs are too tight, making the bed too low, and flexing your hot plate
Hi. I feel like a step is missing orbthings are a bit differentbfor the s1. I dont have that screen with the 4 corners and center. Aftervyou home are you dropping the Z the 10 mm that it raises when it homes. Im a bit confused
Hi, they are indeed very different firmware. Here is my S1: th-cam.com/video/raSW7cDGObg/w-d-xo.html
@@3DRundown thank you 😊
All good except!... My adjustments is stopping at 5.00 and I cannot get the nozzle closer.
Your springs are too tight. Loosen them to raise the bed. Re-Tram (SMALL adjustments on the knobs) , then Z-Offset.
hey i have a problem where the home z is too high on the thing and it wont let me go lower to the bed
nvm i had removed the wire going to the nozzle and did not put it back
👍🏼👍🏼
I could use some help. My printer ran fine for over a year. Started having some printing issues so I decided to change the nozzle. Now it will not home properly..
It's an ender 3v2 with bl touch upgraded bed springs .. its the 4.2.7 version.
What firmware? What happens when it homes.
@3D Rundown Jeres bug fixes firmware.. when it homes it sits about 2 inches of the borad drops the pin then raises about half inch then stops
👏👏👏
I finished leveling and all that, and noticed it didn’t save my z axis so I had to stop and restart my print a few times and keep adjusting the z. Not sure what I did wrong but so far it’s printing well. I had a tiiiiiny bit of stringing just before I adjusted one more down but so far so good.
Adjust your Z Offset WHILE it's printing. *Only on the 1st Layer*. After the 1st layer, Z Offset doesn't matter
@@3DRundown I did. My cat print came out beautiful. I don’t want to have to adjust the z every time I print but at least I know what number to put it on 🤷🏻♂️
You don't. Set it, and forget it. Just click SAVE on the screen in the firmware.
Hello, please help, I have an Ender 3 S1 pro printer.
I changed the nozzle and when I try to level the bed, it lowers the extruder and the nozzle sticks against the bed and makes a very ugly noise, the cr touch works, I put a book on the bed and it did those 2 steps well. I raise the z axis. But when I tell him to level again he crashes into the bed. And raising the z-axis while making noise from being in contact with the bed makes me afraid to wait so long for the z-axis adjustment window to activate. I don't know if the limit switch needs to be adjusted.
Thanks in advance 🤗
If you have a probe, you need to remove the Z Stop Switch.
did all this yet when the print started it was 1cm above the actual bed when printing....
That's your Z Offset. Lower during 1st layer it till it's good
I ran through this process over 5 times, and every new print the Z Axis resets itself on too high of an offet about 1mm from the bed. this is after I have Leveled and tram the bed while heated. all my spring adjustments are proper. I am at a complete loss for what to do, other than trick the printer and hastily adjust the bed as it starts the print. This is my 3rd 3D printer so I am by no means an expert but this one is throwing me for a real loop.
Your Z Height (Z Offset) shouldn't be changing. During your first layer, baby step your Z-Offset down, till it looks and feels good. You should be able to rub the layer. *Save* and it should stay
Also, just checking.... make sure you don't have a Z Stop switch installed
@@3DRundown thanks for the reply mate. An update I checked the start G code default in cura for the Ender 3 pro, and there were 2 lines of G1 Z ( note says to avoid scraping the build plate.. which makes no sense if it's all leveled properly). Long story short, I deleted those completely. And now it seems my prints are okay
I would've skipped the "Pro" version for all the hustle. My Ender 3 stock has been chugging along perfectly. Besides the plastic nozzle cover I have. No complaints with it
after creating the mesh the distance between nozzle and bed is different than before. Is either to high or pushing the build plate down, it does not stay the same... I find it very hard to level this printer :/
Not a leveling thing. It's a Z Height thing. Have to adjust your Z-Offset, during -st layer of a print, then save it
Can't you do the same thing in the menu with the alt level and the set locations 1 - 5?
Yessir
If I encounter error in z offset what I need to do put stop or move Z offset when is printing
Only adjust Z Offset during 1st layer
I have always done this with the bed preheated. Is this not necessary?
Warm is ideal, but more so with Glass, because of it's expansion and contraction.
Maybe you can offer some advise, I level my bed, and it prints perfectly, the print is practically flawless, MY issue is, even if I immediately try to print again leveling is WAY OFF, as in it was so bad it gouged the bed, and had to be replaced, this is EVERY time I go to print, I HAVE to relevel after every print, Ive gotten quite good at it, but its problematic when I am making something that has multiple print sessions, and has to be leveled every time... any assistance you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I have checked every nut, bolt, eccentric nut, belt, tightener, even broke the machine down to its core components, IE when I first got it to eliminate any mistakes. the issue persists...
Which machine we working with? This is a Z-Offset problem. You want to adjust the Z-Offset (aka Z-Height) to start at the proper height. If you do that, and it still happens, you may have a problem where your Z is "Drooping" do to eccentric being too loose. If you don't have a BL, or CR, Touch, Get one
@@3DRundown I have the creality Ender 3 S1 Pro.
Have you been through this video? th-cam.com/video/pP36ozrfRQ0/w-d-xo.html
If it's gouging the bed, the Z-OFFSET is wrong. Have you confirmed, when it happens, if it's keeping it's Z-OFFSET setting, or if it changed? When you have the Z-OFFSET where you want it, make sure it's saving.
Make sure you are using your ABL Mesh, by having "M420 S1" in your GCODE after G28
Make sure when you level, you start with your knobs tight enough. If they are loose, and they loosen themselves the bed will raise.
@3D Rundown so, I used the Gcode, and it seems ro have resolved, got thru about 4-5 prints before I had to relevel. Thanks for your input! I appreciate it, and you've earned a sub.
Help me! I have a ender 3 s1 pro and im pretty sure im tramed right at least i think, but like half way through any print i lose all adhesion
Textured PEO Sucks. Use Glass, or Smooth PEI. Also, be sure the bed is clean. 99% of adhesion problems, is your BED NOT CLEAN, or Z-OFFSET too high. Did you set your Z-OFFSET along with me here on this video?
Also: th-cam.com/video/pP36ozrfRQ0/w-d-xo.html
Is it complicated to adjust the Z offset on this printer
No
@@3DRundown do u like the pro or the s1 plus more or both
@@monsterstorm78 The PRO is very old, and small, and about $99, the plus, is very new, and LARGE, and $500. I love my Pro, especially for the price. Not sure the PLUS is worth $500, but, it's a much more modern, and larger machine
For some reason when i turn all of the wheels to the right and try to lower the z offset the gap is too big. I am new to this hobby and i dont know what to do
Lower the Z Offset till the gap is NOT too big.
The z offset doesn't go that far down but I think I fixed it anyway.
It will go as low as you need it too. Could also raise the bed a little.
@@3DRundown ok I have thanks for the help
@@3DRundown But I keep occasionally hearing loud whiring/squeezing when the bed is moving when it's printing
When I followed the same steps I found a Probing error. How to rectify this error? Please help
Is the crtouch functional? Does it self test, when turned on? Is it blinking red
is spaghetti the effect of bad leveling?
Could be many things, but it's "spaghetti" because the filament is just oozing out and being dragged around by the nozzle, not sticking to anything. If that happens due to the model separating from the bed, it can be a tramming thing, or a Z-Offset thing. Proper Z Offset is critical, even with a well "leveled" bed
@@3DRundown i managed to fix it somehow by leveling bed again but without auto leveling
Ssu
Should I not trust the tramming wizard on the professional firmware?
Unless something has changes, the pro and plus don't have the wizard. But even still, I prefer to feel it out myself, but you can totally use it. It can be a little slow, especially to use it for an initial setup. It's faster to use it for an adjustment after. But, mainly, I try to teach methods anyone cam use.
@@3DRundown I'm using the pro firmware by mriscoc on my standard S1 Thanks for your videos. I think a glass bed is going to be needed to fix my issues. Still having problems after tramming, creating a 9x9 mesh and setting z-offset
MRISCOC makes great firmware. The S1 has some weird ABL issues. My S1+ doesn't have any problems at all, but my S1, is a pain to get a working mesh. Glass is def best, IMO.
Does thid works for s1 pro or s1
Pro and Plus will be the same. S1 has different firmware. I have a video for the S1, but the process is super similar.