Identifying those brands is a big help. Now I watched a couple of videos about installing baseboards a couple years back... and I would almost promise you they suggested cutting your end cuts a couple degrees beyond 45 if you have a right angle corner. Didn't you do a video on putting down new baseboards?
Thank you for the informative video. I'd like to suggest one please on tackling the seams in crown molding that come apart after a a little bit. Thank you!
I also like to mix white glue with putty. The goal is to have a white glue that is like paste and not somewhat liquid so it won't drip. It's 50-75% putty otherwise it will still drip. You avoid opening caulk tube for such a small job. Also, you can cut the tip with two strokes to make it pointy. Great video BTW and thanks for the priduct recommendation. I'll give it a try probably no later than this week. Need to do a window (that isnt perfectly straigt) interior frame made by an amateur (me).
Could you do a video on your favorite tradesman work gear brands for pants, shoes, etc that are comfortable and durable? Thanks for all the good videos
I like grey Levi 541's. The have a bit of stretch and are pretty heavy duty. I was always a Finish Carpenter or Cabinet Installer, so for shoes I always wore sneakers. If you're looking for a great shoe for everyday life my favourite is the Saucony Peregrine.
The Dynaflex 230 is my go-to caulk.... You do have to wait 2 hours before painting, but I never get cracking with it on houses I go back to years later.
I can’t watch any of your caulking videos anymore without laughing. In fact as I was doing my caulk job yesterday I was coming up with my own innuendos. I literally couldn’t stop and kept myself laughing the whole day. Thanks for your tip and can’t wait for the next one (see I told you I can’t stop)!!!🤣🤣🤣
Hi! What would you suggest to use for board and batten gaps? Caulk was used for where the board meets the wall, but my problem is where board meets board. I can’t figure out what to use in those seams. Caulk is shrinking and cracking. It’s making me crazy! 😅 Thank you in advance!!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter You are probably better off not mentioning it. Because the industry is filled with cry babies that don't want to hear about how the way they do it is wrong. So they will shout, piss, bitch and moan about how their miters nEvEr oPeN, when in realty what they mean is they've never seen one of their miters 3 years later. And really, if everyone knew how to do it right, you wouldn't have a video to make telling them how to fix their work. #TrimWar2024
You wanna shove the caulk in the crack as far as you can. Just moisten your finger and use it to slide the caulk in to the crack. And of course as mentioned, when finished used a wet soapy rag and wipe the caulk until clean.
Like others, I liked the comparison on caulks. LOVED your vids on baseboards and caulking tips (sanding to pre-smooth a bevel in the tip OMG...). The DIYer in me stares at the 800 different type of white caulk and finds whatever looks cheap enough and would still work. Not much thought to the physical properties/etc... But seeing the stretch on the dynaflex was *chefs kiss* veddy nice! Any thoughts on doing an in-depth video on your caulk (yeah, go ahead and laugh)? There's enough options out there, might be worth knowing what sort of properties we should be looking for for special applications.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter tnx for the reply, that might be a good idea. I havent found dynaflex over here in the Netherlands. Permanent solution is scraping away some of the plaster and then reinforce it with mesh material. But I just painted that wall. Not really eager now, maybe in a decade or so.
@@sjoerdtollenaar4089 I highly recommend not using mesh tape, if you do then use FibaFuse instead (looks like actual fibreglass) it will still absorb and bond with most if not all filler compounds.
So the real question is how do you pronounce Alex Plus caulk? I’ve heard you’re actually supposed to say “a-lex” (aylex) instead of “Alex” because the product is an “acrylic latex” caulk. TomAto tomato :)
Those gaps are hideous and scream that the skirting/baseboard was fitted by a cowboy. Only cowboys use mitres. Pros always cope the inside corners which will minimise any gaps down the road. This is even more important when fitting to stud walls which will almost certainly shrink a bit when the house starts being heated. If you cope the boards then you can fit them perfectly even when the walls are really out of square and plumb due to errors in bricklaying and plastering on houses that are centuries old.
To all the internet pros saying those should be coped corners. Yeah we all get it. But the reality is 99% of houses that get constructed have mitered corners because it is faster and time is money to builders. So there are millions and millions of corners like this out there that need help to reduce the appearance. And let's not kid ourselves, even coped miters can show a crack along the cope line.
With your tips I've gone from being terrible with the caulk to being a monster of caulk, you da man
I learned how to install and caulk baseboards for my 2 floor home renovation project all from you. Thank you!
Identifying those brands is a big help. Now I watched a couple of videos about installing baseboards a couple years back... and I would almost promise you they suggested cutting your end cuts a couple degrees beyond 45 if you have a right angle corner. Didn't you do a video on putting down new baseboards?
I think so, I'm going to do another one that's more step by step in a few months
Not now babe, TFC just uploaded
That's funny:)
Pushin 400k Funny Man!!! How about a shop tour?
Stop admiring his caulk
Thank you for the informative video. I'd like to suggest one please on tackling the seams in crown molding that come apart after a a little bit. Thank you!
I also like to mix white glue with putty. The goal is to have a white glue that is like paste and not somewhat liquid so it won't drip. It's 50-75% putty otherwise it will still drip.
You avoid opening caulk tube for such a small job.
Also, you can cut the tip with two strokes to make it pointy.
Great video BTW and thanks for the priduct recommendation. I'll give it a try probably no later than this week. Need to do a window (that isnt perfectly straigt) interior frame made by an amateur (me).
Wet, moist, caulk in a crack. My favorite kind of TH-cam video.
Lots of sexual innuendo going on here!
No jobs done...without the caulk
without the caulk there can be no life....
Could you do a video on your favorite tradesman work gear brands for pants, shoes, etc that are comfortable and durable? Thanks for all the good videos
I like grey Levi 541's. The have a bit of stretch and are pretty heavy duty. I was always a Finish Carpenter or Cabinet Installer, so for shoes I always wore sneakers. If you're looking for a great shoe for everyday life my favourite is the Saucony Peregrine.
The Dynaflex 230 is my go-to caulk.... You do have to wait 2 hours before painting, but I never get cracking with it on houses I go back to years later.
I can’t watch any of your caulking videos anymore without laughing. In fact as I was doing my caulk job yesterday I was coming up with my own innuendos. I literally couldn’t stop and kept myself laughing the whole day. Thanks for your tip and can’t wait for the next one (see I told you I can’t stop)!!!🤣🤣🤣
Great advice as usual! Where do you source your caulking products, specifically the Dynafex 230?
I'ma new DIYer, these videos are very helpful!
Awesome! Thank you!
Loved the video! Exactly what I thought to fixed gaps in my 2 year old house and thanks for recommending the brand!
Hi! What would you suggest to use for board and batten gaps? Caulk was used for where the board meets the wall, but my problem is where board meets board. I can’t figure out what to use in those seams. Caulk is shrinking and cracking. It’s making me crazy! 😅 Thank you in advance!!
Sick !!! :)
... a little tip, once you've cut a small hole, use those curve wire picture hooks to poke hole in calking tube.
Any of the Latex based caulking that I've used doesn't have a seal. But that would be an excellent tip for silicone or adhesives!
Thank you for all your help. I just contributed as a small thank you. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the caulking mini-review!
Great video as always, you sidestep a few innuendos😂🤣
I try
Can you cover hanging shelves and 3:01 organizers for aluminum siding in garage.
I love your videos! Clear, to the point, great camera angles. What more could you ask for!?
Great tips, thanks!
That’s the best caulking for trim out there.
Have learned a lot from you, thanks for your vids!!!
"We're back talking caulk" 🤣
This is why inside corners should be coped. Just thought I would start a trim war in your comments . LMAO
100% agree, how did I not mention this:(
@@TheFunnyCarpenter You are probably better off not mentioning it. Because the industry is filled with cry babies that don't want to hear about how the way they do it is wrong. So they will shout, piss, bitch and moan about how their miters nEvEr oPeN, when in realty what they mean is they've never seen one of their miters 3 years later. And really, if everyone knew how to do it right, you wouldn't have a video to make telling them how to fix their work.
#TrimWar2024
I learned how to cope with an angle grinder and a flappy sanding disk. Works well and is fast.
70-80 hours worth of work for the first solution? Can you break that down?
Thought for mitre joints you use wood filler only
Great tip on that baseboard corner. You sound a little like Seth Rogan.
Crocodile wipes is a life saver. Use that instead of wet rags. Multiple uses.
What is the best type of paint for baseboard and moldings around the door jams? Please and thank you. 😊
Interior paint for walls semi gloss is what I use. Dirt cleans off easily.
You wanna shove the caulk in the crack as far as you can. Just moisten your finger and use it to slide the caulk in to the crack. And of course as mentioned, when finished used a wet soapy rag and wipe the caulk until clean.
Geez, why don‘t they make caulking in small super-glue sized bottles (not the tubes) so we can fine-tune these repairs? Thanks for the videos!
What do you think of Extreme Stretch? Is it rebranded Dynaflex 230?
I haven't tried it. I'll have a look next time I'm at a hardware store and see if they have it.
👍👍👍Great tip. Thank you
Thanks buddy
Like others, I liked the comparison on caulks. LOVED your vids on baseboards and caulking tips (sanding to pre-smooth a bevel in the tip OMG...). The DIYer in me stares at the 800 different type of white caulk and finds whatever looks cheap enough and would still work. Not much thought to the physical properties/etc... But seeing the stretch on the dynaflex was *chefs kiss* veddy nice!
Any thoughts on doing an in-depth video on your caulk (yeah, go ahead and laugh)? There's enough options out there, might be worth knowing what sort of properties we should be looking for for special applications.
Looks good, thanks.
Any tips on cracks in plaster work, that are reappering over and over again?
I'm not super familiar with plaster, but perhaps you try some dynaflex or big stretch in the cracks.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter tnx for the reply, that might be a good idea. I havent found dynaflex over here in the Netherlands.
Permanent solution is scraping away some of the plaster and then reinforce it with mesh material. But I just painted that wall. Not really eager now, maybe in a decade or so.
@@sjoerdtollenaar4089 I highly recommend not using mesh tape, if you do then use FibaFuse instead (looks like actual fibreglass) it will still absorb and bond with most if not all filler compounds.
Good to know! Thanks!
Thanks!
My baseboards are so sad. Gonna get my caulk on
Or you can do your trim correctly and use a coping saw.
Wer back talkin' caulk
🇦🇺 Gidday!
Cheers Maria, hope you're have a great day on the other side of the globe.
Caulk on!
So the real question is how do you pronounce Alex Plus caulk? I’ve heard you’re actually supposed to say “a-lex” (aylex) instead of “Alex” because the product is an “acrylic latex” caulk. TomAto tomato :)
If that internal joint was coped and not mitred this wouldn't have happened in the first place.
Yes, coping is the way to go and it is not difficult.
It took me less than 1 minute: I hate myself all the time
Those gaps are hideous and scream that the skirting/baseboard was fitted by a cowboy.
Only cowboys use mitres.
Pros always cope the inside corners which will minimise any gaps down the road.
This is even more important when fitting to stud walls which will almost certainly shrink a bit when the house starts being heated.
If you cope the boards then you can fit them perfectly even when the walls are really out of square and plumb due to errors in bricklaying and plastering on houses that are centuries old.
To all the internet pros saying those should be coped corners. Yeah we all get it. But the reality is 99% of houses that get constructed have mitered corners because it is faster and time is money to builders. So there are millions and millions of corners like this out there that need help to reduce the appearance. And let's not kid ourselves, even coped miters can show a crack along the cope line.
Cut the scribe properly in the first place!
He said "Moist"...HeHeHe...:)
Never use internal mitres in the first place!!! This is why!!!,
LOVE YOU
Old credit card works great for the corner.
👍
Ok..now do stain grade Oak
😎⚒️😎⚒️😎
Cheers Ted:)
Those old baseboards are awful. I have MDR and it's eternal.
Skirting board
Get out of my head man. How do you keep posting exactly what project the wife asks me for the day before I start working on it.
Same!! Lol
POW
Somebody get this guy a rag and 5 in 1 tool
5 in 1 are good for opening paint can and cleaning rollers.
"moist finger", "tip in the crack" ugh-ugh
*keep working it*
😂😂😂😂 aint nobody doing this shit.
"baseboard crack" = poor joinery. Have we forgotten how to cope?
I get called to really fix your house after this guy's gluing it together fails.
No you dont. Lol
@@LeadingPaws I most certainly do.