When it sits proud of the door casing that means you need to redo the casing and might as well get new doors. Since you're taking the casing off, might as well redo the floors. If the floors are up, maybe you should add some floor heating. Since you added floor heating in the living areas you really ought to do it in the bathrooms which means it's a good time to redo the bathrooms. If youe doing all that plumbing you might as well put in new plumbing. Welcome to my life.
I am right here.....we repainted the house to a different color scheme, only to find that the toilets were not actually white, they were light almond, so new toilets.....and the tubs....and the tile.....and the kitchen countertops.....and half of our decor. We should've just knocked the house down and rebuilt it.....
Oh man. I'm going through this, not quite as bad. Got vinyl plank to replace carpet. Might as rip out the crappy trim....might as well paint the walls too....might as well paint the ceiling. One of these days I'll get to the part of actually putting the damn floor in.
Another great vid! I'm no pro but I have one quick additional tip that may be useful to newbies ( if watching, add in around 2:20); when prying base boards away from wall, work your way from one side to the other as he says, but try to APPLY PRESSURE WHERE THE NAILS ARE. That works for basically everything you're trying to pry apart. Otherwise you apply too much flex to the board and materials like mdf may snap.
@@keithmarlowe5569 The other day, I took up some solid wood trim that was installed ~30 years ago with hand-drive 6d finish nails. I kinda wanted to save the wood and see if it could be re-used on another project, so I went to pull the finish nails through the back of the trim, like I do all the time with 18 gauge pneumatic finish nails on MDF. Hoooolyyyyy crap. I think my arm was done after pulling just one through. The combination of solid wood being sturdier plus the bigger difference in diameter between the shank and the head on those 6d nails kicked my ass. Immediately switched to using my nail set to recess any heads sticking up and then flush cut the nails in the back.
Can't believe TH-cam only recently began suggesting your channel in my feed. So many times I've struggled and fretted over getting it right. So now I'm 62 and finally have an awesome teacher! Your content is really superb! Thank You!
42 yrs as a pro. I never mitre inside corners. Cope only. Once you get the hang of it nothing else comes close for speed and quality. I simply cut an inside mitre, then use a jigsaw with a narrow scroll blade and rest the bed of saw on flat of mitre and cut along the profile of baseboard. It automaticly back cuts the cope and gives knife edge to the cope. Also easy to adjust if necessary with a sanding block. Its easier than it sounds. Its super tight and fast. I run a room so fast it will make your head spin. Learned that trick from an old timer 30 years ago. Coping saw just takes too long. Of course im the old timer now. Love your tips. Great job.
That’s awesome Paul! Every good carpenter should know how to cope mouldings! The place it come in handy for my is installing cabinets and tying in new crown to old crowns. Thanks for supporting the channel!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I cannot yet understand how to make the cut as described above. Can this be referred to in a video, or photo, so we can see it? It says "never mitre inside corners" but then says to do just that, "cut an inside mitre". So this is cutting a mitre but only half of the corner, on one piece only? So the one "half" mitre is the cutting guide for the other inside piece?
4:04 if people want thicker baseboards they can just use a multi tool to cut off a bottom section of the door casing and install a thick plinth block. Looks nice.
hi nicely done , i use a wide putty knife , once i can get it in , between wall and pry bar to spread the pry force and avoid drywall damage on tough baseboard removals
About using thicker boards than the door casing (3:30): I have used several 'end pieces' inbetween the boards and the door casings. They are small rectangle vertical bars that match the thickness of the boards, which still delivers a clean finished look. The shop where I ordered my boards supplies them, but they are also easy to make yourself.
Thank you for #2! You helped me to convince my wife of the need to replace existing door casing since she wants to keep the current baseboard. I really enjoy your videos, very practical and helpful.
Your flat bar is actually a hive tool for beekeepers to pry hives apart. And yes I use mine all the time outside working the bees. Just thought I would say something maybe it will help someone find it easier. Thanks for your videos nice details!
Replaced my builders grade finger joint pine baseboards a couple of years ago with larger poplar bb. I didn't want to replace all the casing so I just added a back band molding to all the door casings. Looks fantastic and a lot less $$ than replacing all the casing.
Thank you! I just did wood flooring in a room for the first time and this was my first time doing trim. I was nervous about the corners so I used your angles. It worked perfectly!!
A few pointers I will add from my struggles or experience. The trim removal bars are worth the $30 if you are doing a whole house or frequent work. Coping the inside corners is my go-to after trying different ways but I use an angle grinder to cope; learned that from another TH-camr. You need a steady hand but it works on MDF or finger-jointed pine. For dealing with humps in the floor, my Bosch 12V mini planer is magical for shaving down the bottom edge of baseboard quickly. I was already in the Bosch 12V line so it was an easy purchase for me.
@@johnbrunko: The Richards flat bar being used in this video is pretty much the only thing I use to remove baseboards and casings of the past 40 or 50 years designs. I usually back it with a 4” putty knife until the trim is loose (to avoid damage to the wall) and then just pull the trim off mostly by hand. I own several of these bars because no one I hire ever has one and they’ll start removing trim with a 36” wrecking bar if I’m not looking. Those little bars cost between $6.00 and $11.00 and at one time, along with the Estwing 20oz straight claw steel-shanked ripping hammer, they were the most stolen item in my tool kits. Having said that I also own pretty much every other size and design of prybar including a cat’s paw, a ‘trim-puller’ type and traditional and non-traditional crowbars from 8” to 40” that cost anywhere from $1.00 to about $24.00. The cat’s paw is an older style Estwing and was FREE! After decades of ‘donating’ my tools to other trades someone finally left something behind for me. I have no idea who left it but after a week I took it with me and still have it if you’re looking for it, lol.
Wood and water are not good together so when I did my bathroom I changed the baseboard/skirting from Wood to upvc/ plastic look great and doesn't rot. Great video
baseboard to floor gaps traditionally hidden by quarter round, shoe mould or door stop in most parts of Ontario, would never consider installing baseboard without one of those options. going to try your inside and outside angles, have a lot to instal . I personally like the look of oak quarter round finished to match the hardwood floor.
This video went up 20 hours ago and you already have 62 comments. You are the Master! Where there is a dip in the floor, I simply push the baseboard down and tack it in. I has worked so far, but I'm not inviting you to my house just yet!
Thanks for getting straight to the point and keeping it simple. Way too many TH-cam instructors have no clue how important that is. Good luck with your channel.
Great tips. Another to mention is pros and cons of mdf vs wood mouldings. I've removed tons of swollen and buckled mdf baseboard in bathrooms and areas prone to repetitive moisture exposure. Budget and client permitting I use wood moulding in this areas.
When i bought my house, i had no knowledge about baseboards, so yeah, i ended up being creative. Regarding your #4, my solution was to add a baseboard shoe, I thought it was wacky/sketchy at first, but i got some compliments here and there about the look over the years. Not as bad as i thought initially.
I know some would give me grief over this, but we pulled up carpet in three bedrooms and closets and put down wide hardwood planking. Floor needs expansion gaps hidden under trim. Choice was to pull up all the baseboard and replace over the new floor or leave the baseboard, add a gap and cover with quarter round. I chose the second one. We saved tones of money and time. It looks great and I would do it that way again. It also solves about half of the problems shown here.
@blaster 0416: If the baseboards are 100 yr old 1x8 planks over plaster you definitely don’t want to remove them or you will also remove half the wall with them, lol.
I have been using cope joints on a house I am working on and it is amazing. Cause even if the floors run down hill or up hill the coped side can be filed for a tight fit. The hangulation of the inside corners almost becomes totaly irrelevant with cope joints. I can't belive that cope joints have become so uncommon in finish work.
As " Paint grade " trim has become far more common then natural/stained wood ... it is generally far easier , and certainly more time efficient , and a lot less expensive , most will just do what you can with an inside miter cut , and fill it with caulking etc. So Yes , the art/skill of cope cutting , is/has become lesser used . Won't be long before new young carpenters will look at a coping saw with the same confused look as when seeing a rotary dial phone . 🙂
I’m almost done a massive project in this case. Each item you talked about I completely agree. The house is old, walls are way out of wack, all I could do is fill gaps with compound 90 and wipe with a damp sponge.
Great tips man. I seem to always have 2 cents to add but this one was on point. Great tip on using a shim to scribe. I always bust out my scribing tool but that’s a lot easier.
I also dont scribe to floor unless gap is more than 1/8. Caulking is necessary no matter what to seal the bottom edge from moisture , washing floor etc. Let the painter do it. Use quality caulking also. If you choose baseboard thicker than casing just put backband around casing. Its just piece of maybe 1/2 " by 1" piece of trim . wrap that around edge of casing. Adds a nice detail an enables you to use thicker baseboard. Good luck to all. 😁
Very interesting. I bought an older home where the floor has sunk in a few places. Theres a massive 1/3''+ gap with the baseboard that I'd love to clean up. May have to try this in the future, but sounds like ill need to start with a pretty big board to compensate.
Nice vid mate, but as for internal mitres I'd be coping them with either a coping saw or as quickly with flap disc. Just my opinion as a Carpenter down under. Not trying to be a smart arse, but there's more than one way to skin a cat. Great video content by the way and it's always great to watch videos from other Carpenters from overseas, so sharing is learning in my book! I love your content as I've picked up some tricks from you. . Thanks for posting mate. Cheers from Australia.
Baseboard all the way to the floor no gap u done amazing job we recently had new baseboard install we still got the gap left over the contractor keep saying our floor is uneven guess he was unprofessional thanks the great video
Before installing baseboards or flooring have a professional come in and level the floor with leveling cement in required areas. They use lasers for this so it works well. I believe this would eliminate the need for shimming undersides of baseboards. Your thoughts? I had it done on my house and it worked good.
Just put down new vinyl plank flooring. Previous homeowner had thick wood laminate down. Now I have a half inch gap under all the baseboards which I’ve been able to use 3-4 quarter round and cover the gap, since I didn’t want to lower or replace all the baseboards. Problem now is I have big gaps under the door casings and jambs. Only way I can think of to fix all these doorways is to take my multi tool and cut like a foot of the lower area off and put new longer section in. I can’t see going around to every door and using body filler or something and laying on my side trying to sand all that mess. More than likely damage the new floor in the process too. Last resort I guess would be to still remove all the baseboards and invest money to put in taller baseboards. At least cutting a lower section out of the jambs and casing the repair would be minimal and a foot off the floor. Advice would be great. Love the channel. Thx
Another tip: before using the glazers bar to pry away the baseboards, slide a 3” putty (drywall) spatula (knife) behind the baseboard, against the wall and pry against that. Reason: Often, very long Brad nails were used to secure the baseboards and prying can collapse the drywall. The putty knife adds extra support to pry against.
Instead of the pry bar, I use a pair of 6" drywall spreaders to remove base. Push a flexible spreader down behind the base at a slight angle where you plan to start. That helps cut what the razor knife missed. Once it's been inserted, flex it toward you a few times. If that's enough to begin loosening the base board, insert a second, stiff spreader behind the first one and pull on them both. They act like a pry bar but over a wider area. From that point on, use the flexible spreader to begin loosening the base, then with the stiffer one right behind it, rock them both in tandem. The thin one is always inserted behind the base first, and shove it down at an angle each time, cutting whatever the knife missed. Even if you use a pry bar, use a thin, flexible 6-in drywall spreader ahead of the pry bar for the reason mentioned earlier.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter it doesn't always work depending on if it's real wood and was fastened on with finish nails but I've been doing it that way for quite a few years and they usually works pretty good especially if the flexible drywall knife is only used for pushing down to finish cutting the caulk and then using the pry bar behind it. I don't think one method works for everything. Mine certainly doesn't. 😁
#1- probably a whole lot easier to do when the bottom edge is not edged in by 2 layers of flooring butted against it and nailed in with 3" nails. Old house and everything was done with 3" nails. Sometimes multiples of nails. Will keep #'s 2-4 in mind. Thank you!
4:04 one way to do this without it being completely hideous is by creating a nice elliptical inward curve instead of a bevel, making it look as if the baseboard bends into the doorframe. Not as easy with profiled baseboards of course, but mdf is easy enough to shape and smooth out with filler.
Want a perfect outside miter every time, first cut? Put painters tape on floor along both walls under where the baseboard will get installed. One at a time, place the board to be cut against the wall and trace along bottom edge onto tape. You now should have criss crossing line of the the basedoards outside edges. Place the board back in place and mark the outside edge of the criss cross onto the baseboards outside edge, as well as the inside corner on the inside edge of the board.Put the board on your miter saw and adjust so that the blade just kisses both marks. Not only will the angle be perfect, but you won't make mistakes cutting the angle in the wrong direction. Not that any of us would ever make that mistake. Lol
@@TheFunnyCarpenter honestly, it's super easy and quick as well. I used this technique on crown molding too, since the ceiling was going to be repainted anyway, I just penciled right onto the ceiling. Fast, no cut mistakes, and it saves a lot of time caulking or filling sloppy joints later on.
@@rodbingaman6985 I remember what my grandfather said,"The elapsed time between making the same mistake in a given work period will greatly increase with a little bit of rigorous practice."
Love the video except the table saw clip at 6:16 ... I'm not usually a safety freak but I wouldn't show clips using a table saw rips without a fence to viewers might not know better.
Only base I would sand to make fit floor would be if stain grade ( could not caulk ) My 1 & 2 best are to shim the back if wowee in wall plane . Make up outside corners and secure 1st , The inside is slam ( caulk if gaps ) Best is to stretch measuring tape on floor ( locked) line up a mid stud mark with backing side of wall outlets . Never waste a minute looking for nail backing . Do these FAST and make $
Finish carpentry or trim or framing work or fitting a door, use a cordless Makita planer to dial in any line or bevel or edge. Fine tune any situation . Replacement blades come in 10 pc pack.
Excellent video. I'm really surprised how common you say the first two mistakes are. The only one I didn't know was #4... specifically using a shim to act as a guide to mark where to trim. And BTW... i have that same Bosch sander. Definitely the best cheap random orbital sander out there and hooked up to a shop-vac you've got pretty much dust free sanding. I'm looking at buying Bosch's beast of a sander, the GET75-n6 with the switch to turn on/off powered rotary mode. Its expensive but sometimes the little bosch isn't enough.
Quick tip ...if for whatever reason you're planning to reuse the base or case that you're removing ... always pull the nails/brads through the back . if you try to pound " finishing nails " from the back out the front ( would seem to be the logical thing ) you will most likely end up with " tear out " with natural wood . and kind of " blistering " with MDF . If " brad nails ( usually 18ga ) are used , they are damn near impossible to pound out ,( too thin and will simply bend ) so pulling through the back is pretty much a given. The other advantage of pulling through the back , is that it doesn't leave holes in the front to have to refill. I find that using " channel lock plyers ( with a rounded/cured side ) lets me get a good bit on the nail and then prying over on the curved side , gives a smooth pry to remove the nails .
I'm using composite pigmented baseboard in my current renovation, some of these tips will help out for sure because I don't want to use caulking and have to paint something that already has the colour I want!
You have your own set of issues. I would not use a pre primed and painted baseboard or any trim piece for that matter. There’s no way to make it seamless, unless the manufacturer provides a color coded caulk. In most cases caulking finishes off the baseboard, integrating it to the wall and other areas where it touches, not to mention helping fix the occasional infer or over cut miter.
In terms of placing baseboards flush with the floor, when installing a floating floor (vinyl), the baseboards were to be placed 1/16 - 1/8 above the flooring to prevent pinching and provide enough air flow on a basement cement floor.
Shoemolding or quarter round also hide floor gaps although it can make/add to casing transition problems due to increasing the effective baseboard depth. Previous owners added 3/4" quarter round to existing 3-1/4" baseboard and the results at my house are disappointing, but I have seen it work well with taller baseboards.
Yes, shoe moulding creates its own problems for sure. I've always been a fan of fitting the baseboards to the floor, and if a should moulding is necessary I will make them very thin and try to make it seem like part of the baseboard.
Thanks for this video!! So helpful! How do you build up under doorframes when you are putting in a thinner floor? We have 3 layers of floor that are being removed....
I don't butt or mitre internal corners on profile baseboard, I cross cut with a 45° angle and use a coping saw to cut along the line, it's a perfect match for the profile
This is a great video. I’m currently replacing all the door casings and baseboard in my home to a wider flat stock type molding. I’ve never done anything like this before so it’s a real learning experience for me. I started in the water closet in the master bath. It’s a small room where it’s just the toilet. I did 45s on the inside corners and didn’t get as tight of a fit as I’d have liked. Since you said it’s ok to butt ends on flat stock I’m going to try that going forward and see how it looks. I had originally thought about doing that just to make it easier for me but I was afraid that was wrong. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Great information. Thank you. I am ill and disabled, and it's been a long time since I have done any work on this house. Since COVID-19, you cannot find Handymen who know what they are doing; people cheat you and charge you a fortune. I should not be attempting any of this, but I am going to try. Wish me luck!
A simple inside outside corner trick for quick work is just go 47 degrees outsides and 43 insides (only adding the 1/2 degree might not be quite enough then you have a second cut anyways). You will have a tiny gap running toward your wall that gets solved with a quick dab of painters caulk. Most people will finish joints with a tiny bit of caulking anyway so It's really insignificant.
I carry a Starrett angel finder. If an outside corner reads 46° I cut it at 46 + a smidgen just to make sure the outside of the miter is closed. As a journeyman cutting them automatically at 47 doesn't work. Too gappy.
Apologies if I don’t understand your comment. It seems you are advocating for mitred inside corners. Why would that ever be better than coping profiled moulding or back cutting butt joints for square stock? Anything else is not professional grade.
I'm using flat stock MDF to make baseboards. One side is perfectly square, the other has a slightly eased (bull-nosed?) edge. Which side should go up? I like the look of the square edge but I'm afraid it might be more prone to dents. Maybe the eased edge looks more finished? We have eight foot ceilings, except in the living room. Should I go with baseboards that measure 4 1/2" or 5 1/2" thick. Decisions drive me crazy. Our door casing is RB03. Is it too fancy to go well with flat baseboard? TIA
One thing these guys should say but don't.. INVEST IN GOOD TOOLS!! I recently installed baseboards on my house and couldn't for the life of me figure out why every single cut was crooked and not lining up. I thought I must be an idiot or something. I called a buddy of mine that has a very expensive miter saw with a built in table and boom! Every single cut was dead on! Make the investment and don't use cheap tools. That old saying "a poor workman blames his tools" is a crock of shit.
New subscriber with a question, please: Removed old vinyl bathroom floor trim, but the wall still had some VERY sticky adhesive remaining, which laughs at acetone and Goo Gone. I'd like to replace the removed vinyl with PVC trim, "Veranda 7318" from Home Depot, and I've learned that the proper adhesive for that would be Loctite 3X PL. SO- what to do about the old, remaining yucky adhesive? Thank you!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Just finished loosening the adhesive with a hair dryer (could’ve used a heat gun), basically liquifying it a bit, and then scraping, wiping the glue off the scraper with Scott’s towel. Appears to be a solution. Thanks for the response 😊
Is it a new style just using the baseboard alone, because ive done plenty of trimming and ive alwats installed quarter round or shoe to give it a extra touch and it conceals all the floor issues. The scribing is awesome, it does work.
My table saw only goes to 45 degrees. I don't think I can stand this long board on end to do a 45.75 degree cut. Do you actually have a way to make that cut? I definitely need to do it as you were spot on with pointing out the problem.
@@johnlebzelter4208 If I find a way that’s easier and does a better looking job then I’m going to use it. At least I’m making coping joints, a lot of DIYers don’t even go to the trouble. I even add “returns” on all of my trim too. Not that I’m trying to brag or anything lol
Ever seen the internal corner technique where you cut the profile at 45 degrees and then cut the edge with a fret saw ? You never ever get a gap ! This is done in Scotland
Very nice job.I am not that good,but I do have a nice technique for inside corners that has worked well for me.I put furniture in the corners .
Lmao
Haha that confused me for a slit second and then I laughed very hard. Well played, sir! Haha
😂 legend
@@bobbybenjani1978 Thanks man.I have been giving folks like Bob Villa tips for years.Though he never used them or compensated me for them.
@@TheIdeasGuy lmao sadly I wasn't joking though.
When it sits proud of the door casing that means you need to redo the casing and might as well get new doors. Since you're taking the casing off, might as well redo the floors. If the floors are up, maybe you should add some floor heating. Since you added floor heating in the living areas you really ought to do it in the bathrooms which means it's a good time to redo the bathrooms. If youe doing all that plumbing you might as well put in new plumbing. Welcome to my life.
😂😂😂
I am right here.....we repainted the house to a different color scheme, only to find that the toilets were not actually white, they were light almond, so new toilets.....and the tubs....and the tile.....and the kitchen countertops.....and half of our decor. We should've just knocked the house down and rebuilt it.....
@@Calypso-rb9sf Time to eat something white to make it match. 😂
Oh man. I'm going through this, not quite as bad. Got vinyl plank to replace carpet. Might as rip out the crappy trim....might as well paint the walls too....might as well paint the ceiling. One of these days I'll get to the part of actually putting the damn floor in.
Hahaha
Thanks!
Cheers 🍻
Another great vid!
I'm no pro but I have one quick additional tip that may be useful to newbies ( if watching, add in around 2:20); when prying base boards away from wall, work your way from one side to the other as he says, but try to APPLY PRESSURE WHERE THE NAILS ARE. That works for basically everything you're trying to pry apart. Otherwise you apply too much flex to the board and materials like mdf may snap.
@@keithmarlowe5569 The other day, I took up some solid wood trim that was installed ~30 years ago with hand-drive 6d finish nails. I kinda wanted to save the wood and see if it could be re-used on another project, so I went to pull the finish nails through the back of the trim, like I do all the time with 18 gauge pneumatic finish nails on MDF.
Hoooolyyyyy crap. I think my arm was done after pulling just one through. The combination of solid wood being sturdier plus the bigger difference in diameter between the shank and the head on those 6d nails kicked my ass. Immediately switched to using my nail set to recess any heads sticking up and then flush cut the nails in the back.
Can't believe TH-cam only recently began suggesting your channel in my feed. So many times I've struggled and fretted over getting it right. So now I'm 62 and finally have an awesome teacher! Your content is really superb! Thank You!
Thanks buddy, I appreciate the comment
42 yrs as a pro. I never mitre inside corners. Cope only. Once you get the hang of it nothing else comes close for speed and quality. I simply cut an inside mitre, then use a jigsaw with a narrow scroll blade and rest the bed of saw on flat of mitre and cut along the profile of baseboard. It automaticly back cuts the cope and gives knife edge to the cope. Also easy to adjust if necessary with a sanding block. Its easier than it sounds. Its super tight and fast. I run a room so fast it will make your head spin. Learned that trick from an old timer 30 years ago. Coping saw just takes too long. Of course im the old timer now. Love your tips. Great job.
That’s awesome Paul! Every good carpenter should know how to cope mouldings! The place it come in handy for my is installing cabinets and tying in new crown to old crowns. Thanks for supporting the channel!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I cannot yet understand how to make the cut as described above. Can this be referred to in a video, or photo, so we can see it? It says "never mitre inside corners" but then says to do just that, "cut an inside mitre". So this is cutting a mitre but only half of the corner, on one piece only? So the one "half" mitre is the cutting guide for the other inside piece?
4:04 if people want thicker baseboards they can just use a multi tool to cut off a bottom section of the door casing and install a thick plinth block. Looks nice.
That's a sweet idea
hi nicely done , i use a wide putty knife , once i can get it in , between wall and pry bar to spread the pry force and avoid drywall damage on tough baseboard removals
Omg, where were you a year ago?! I inherited my fathers house and its...a bit of a fixer upper. Your tips have been life saving! Thank you so much!!
Happy to Help Angela! Best wishes on the fixes.
About using thicker boards than the door casing (3:30): I have used several 'end pieces' inbetween the boards and the door casings. They are small rectangle vertical bars that match the thickness of the boards, which still delivers a clean finished look.
The shop where I ordered my boards supplies them, but they are also easy to make yourself.
I think they're called plinth blocks!
Thank you for #2! You helped me to convince my wife of the need to replace existing door casing since she wants to keep the current baseboard. I really enjoy your videos, very practical and helpful.
Dont forget your returns. He didnt mention anything about them. And hes got none in the video. Hes still an amateur.
yeah these youtube carpenters always say some complete nonsense compared to guys who been doing this for 20+ years.@@TopRankedKilla
Your flat bar is actually a hive tool for beekeepers to pry hives apart. And yes I use mine all the time outside working the bees. Just thought I would say something maybe it will help someone find it easier. Thanks for your videos nice details!
Great to know thank you! The red bars made by Richards were made for Glaziers, They can be found in most tool stores in the paint department.
I'm ready for tomorrow. First time putting baseboard. Thank you for your time in producing this video. Highly appreciated.
Replaced my builders grade finger joint pine baseboards a couple of years ago with larger poplar bb. I didn't want to replace all the casing so I just added a back band molding to all the door casings. Looks fantastic and a lot less $$ than replacing all the casing.
That’s a great idea, I’ll remember that for the future.
What is a back band molding?
4:55 Timestamp for me to reference tomorrow when I do my own baseboards in the house I just bought.
Glazier' Bar. Common to glassworkers. Awesome advice on baseboards. Thank you
trying to do some little DIY reapairs. When you got to the bathroom one- I could have hugged you!! You answered my questions!!
Thank you! I just did wood flooring in a room for the first time and this was my first time doing trim. I was nervous about the corners so I used your angles. It worked perfectly!!
A few pointers I will add from my struggles or experience. The trim removal bars are worth the $30 if you are doing a whole house or frequent work. Coping the inside corners is my go-to after trying different ways but I use an angle grinder to cope; learned that from another TH-camr. You need a steady hand but it works on MDF or finger-jointed pine. For dealing with humps in the floor, my Bosch 12V mini planer is magical for shaving down the bottom edge of baseboard quickly. I was already in the Bosch 12V line so it was an easy purchase for me.
Whoa, somebody saw you coming, lol. That ‘Richards’ flat bar sells for about $10 everywhere and the no-name varieties are about $6.00.
Trim Puller brand name tool is 30 and worth every single penny. It’s one of two tools I own that is never lent to friends
@@johnbrunko: The Richards flat bar being used in this video is pretty much the only thing I use to remove baseboards and casings of the past 40 or 50 years designs. I usually back it with a 4” putty knife until the trim is loose (to avoid damage to the wall) and then just pull the trim off mostly by hand. I own several of these bars because no one I hire ever has one and they’ll start removing trim with a 36” wrecking bar if I’m not looking. Those little bars cost between $6.00 and $11.00 and at one time, along with the Estwing 20oz straight claw steel-shanked ripping hammer, they were the most stolen item in my tool kits.
Having said that I also own pretty much every other size and design of prybar including a cat’s paw, a ‘trim-puller’ type and traditional and non-traditional crowbars from 8” to 40” that cost anywhere from $1.00 to about $24.00. The cat’s paw is an older style Estwing and was FREE! After decades of ‘donating’ my tools to other trades someone finally left something behind for me. I have no idea who left it but after a week I took it with me and still have it if you’re looking for it, lol.
Wood and water are not good together so when I did my bathroom I changed the baseboard/skirting from Wood to upvc/ plastic look great and doesn't rot. Great video
baseboard to floor gaps traditionally hidden by quarter round, shoe mould or door stop in most parts of Ontario, would never consider installing baseboard without one of those options. going to try your inside and outside angles, have a lot to instal . I personally like the look of oak quarter round finished to match the hardwood floor.
This video went up 20 hours ago and you already have 62 comments. You are the Master! Where there is a dip in the floor, I simply push the baseboard down and tack it in. I has worked so far, but I'm not inviting you to my house just yet!
Thanks for getting straight to the point and keeping it simple. Way too many TH-cam instructors have no clue how important that is. Good luck with your channel.
No joke! Half instructional videos… people want to introduce their dog, where they went to high school, their hobbies… straight to the point
Great tips. Another to mention is pros and cons of mdf vs wood mouldings. I've removed tons of swollen and buckled mdf baseboard in bathrooms and areas prone to repetitive moisture exposure. Budget and client permitting I use wood moulding in this areas.
I won't install anything but PVC in bathrooms.
. I just renovated my main bathroom myself. PVC all the way for all the trims and baseboards.
When i bought my house, i had no knowledge about baseboards, so yeah, i ended up being creative. Regarding your #4, my solution was to add a baseboard shoe, I thought it was wacky/sketchy at first, but i got some compliments here and there about the look over the years. Not as bad as i thought initially.
I know some would give me grief over this, but we pulled up carpet in three bedrooms and closets and put down wide hardwood planking. Floor needs expansion gaps hidden under trim. Choice was to pull up all the baseboard and replace over the new floor or leave the baseboard, add a gap and cover with quarter round. I chose the second one. We saved tones of money and time. It looks great and I would do it that way again. It also solves about half of the problems shown here.
@blaster 0416: If the baseboards are 100 yr old 1x8 planks over plaster you definitely don’t want to remove them or you will also remove half the wall with them, lol.
I have been using cope joints on a house I am working on and it is amazing. Cause even if the floors run down hill or up hill the coped side can be filed for a tight fit. The hangulation of the inside corners almost becomes totaly irrelevant with cope joints. I can't belive that cope joints have become so uncommon in finish work.
As " Paint grade " trim has become far more common then natural/stained wood ... it is generally far easier , and certainly more time efficient , and a lot less expensive , most will just do what you can with an inside miter cut , and fill it with caulking etc.
So Yes , the art/skill of cope cutting , is/has become lesser used .
Won't be long before new young carpenters will look at a coping saw with the same confused look as when seeing a rotary dial phone . 🙂
Watching this after I have redone all the baseboards in the house!! Crap! Awesome content as always.
I’m almost done a massive project in this case. Each item you talked about I completely agree.
The house is old, walls are way out of wack, all I could do is fill gaps with compound 90 and wipe with a damp sponge.
Great tips man. I seem to always have 2 cents to add but this one was on point. Great tip on using a shim to scribe. I always bust out my scribing tool but that’s a lot easier.
Thanks buddy, I've always been a fan of using shims. It's simpler than fiddling around with the scribing tools in my opinion.
I also dont scribe to floor unless gap is more than 1/8. Caulking is necessary no matter what to seal the bottom edge from moisture , washing floor etc. Let the painter do it. Use quality caulking also. If you choose baseboard thicker than casing just put backband around casing. Its just piece of maybe 1/2 " by 1" piece of trim . wrap that around edge of casing. Adds a nice detail an enables you to use thicker baseboard. Good luck to all. 😁
Very interesting. I bought an older home where the floor has sunk in a few places. Theres a massive 1/3''+ gap with the baseboard that I'd love to clean up. May have to try this in the future, but sounds like ill need to start with a pretty big board to compensate.
Nice vid mate, but as for internal mitres I'd be coping them with either a coping saw or as quickly with flap disc. Just my opinion as a Carpenter down under. Not trying to be a smart arse, but there's more than one way to skin a cat. Great video content by the way and it's always great to watch videos from other Carpenters from overseas, so sharing is learning in my book! I love your content as I've picked up some tricks from you.
. Thanks for posting mate. Cheers from Australia.
Great vid for a up and comer wondering how to fix this problem on a double door! Thanks man
Baseboard all the way to the floor no gap u done amazing job we recently had new baseboard install we still got the gap left over the contractor keep saying our floor is uneven guess he was unprofessional thanks the great video
Not all finishing carpenters will take the time to scribe the baseboards if you don’t know what your doing it can take for ever.
Well done...learned some important tips that will help me out...Thanks.
Great video, putting baseboards is like doing abs or leg day at the gym ...... I hate doing them but they are necessary
😂😂😂this is so true!
Before installing baseboards or flooring have a professional come in and level the floor with leveling cement in required areas. They use lasers for this so it works well. I believe this would eliminate the need for shimming undersides of baseboards. Your thoughts? I had it done on my house and it worked good.
The beauty of lockdown…watching stuff I would never look at! 😁
😂
You’re still in lockdown? Where do you live?
Had a snap one in Western Australia a few weeks ago, all free now…Eastern States locked down now with key throw away 😳
Cordless electric planner is my go to if I need to scribe skirting/ baseboard.
Just put down new vinyl plank flooring. Previous homeowner had thick wood laminate down. Now I have a half inch gap under all the baseboards which I’ve been able to use 3-4 quarter round and cover the gap, since I didn’t want to lower or replace all the baseboards. Problem now is I have big gaps under the door casings and jambs. Only way I can think of to fix all these doorways is to take my multi tool and cut like a foot of the lower area off and put new longer section in. I can’t see going around to every door and using body filler or something and laying on my side trying to sand all that mess. More than likely damage the new floor in the process too. Last resort I guess would be to still remove all the baseboards and invest money to put in taller baseboards. At least cutting a lower section out of the jambs and casing the repair would be minimal and a foot off the floor. Advice would be great. Love the channel. Thx
Another tip: before using the glazers bar to pry away the baseboards, slide a 3” putty (drywall) spatula (knife) behind the baseboard, against the wall and pry against that. Reason: Often, very long Brad nails were used to secure the baseboards and prying can collapse the drywall. The putty knife adds extra support to pry against.
Instead of the pry bar, I use a pair of 6" drywall spreaders to remove base.
Push a flexible spreader down behind the base at a slight angle where you plan to start. That helps cut what the razor knife missed. Once it's been inserted, flex it toward you a few times. If that's enough to begin loosening the base board, insert a second, stiff spreader behind the first one and pull on them both. They act like a pry bar but over a wider area.
From that point on, use the flexible spreader to begin loosening the base, then with the stiffer one right behind it, rock them both in tandem. The thin one is always inserted behind the base first, and shove it down at an angle each time, cutting whatever the knife missed.
Even if you use a pry bar, use a thin, flexible 6-in drywall spreader ahead of the pry bar for the reason mentioned earlier.
Nice technique
@@TheFunnyCarpenter it doesn't always work depending on if it's real wood and was fastened on with finish nails but I've been doing it that way for quite a few years and they usually works pretty good especially if the flexible drywall knife is only used for pushing down to finish cutting the caulk and then using the pry bar behind it. I don't think one method works for everything. Mine certainly doesn't. 😁
Thanks for the tips again budd!!!! I hope you keep uploading these tips for ever!!!!!
Cheers buddy, enjoy your weekend 🍻!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter you to bud!!!!
#1- probably a whole lot easier to do when the bottom edge is not edged in by 2 layers of flooring butted against it and nailed in with 3" nails. Old house and everything was done with 3" nails. Sometimes multiples of nails. Will keep #'s 2-4 in mind. Thank you!
Great tips, and super well-explained, thank you!
4:04 one way to do this without it being completely hideous is by creating a nice elliptical inward curve instead of a bevel, making it look as if the baseboard bends into the doorframe. Not as easy with profiled baseboards of course, but mdf is easy enough to shape and smooth out with filler.
You could install plyth blocks at every door. They are super easy to install, and is major upgrade to your interior trim. Shalom
Want a perfect outside miter every time, first cut? Put painters tape on floor along both walls under where the baseboard will get installed. One at a time, place the board to be cut against the wall and trace along bottom edge onto tape. You now should have criss crossing line of the the basedoards outside edges. Place the board back in place and mark the outside edge of the criss cross onto the baseboards outside edge, as well as the inside corner on the inside edge of the board.Put the board on your miter saw and adjust so that the blade just kisses both marks. Not only will the angle be perfect, but you won't make mistakes cutting the angle in the wrong direction. Not that any of us would ever make that mistake. Lol
A bit elaborate but I appreciate the effort!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter honestly, it's super easy and quick as well. I used this technique on crown molding too, since the ceiling was going to be repainted anyway, I just penciled right onto the ceiling. Fast, no cut mistakes, and it saves a lot of time caulking or filling sloppy joints later on.
I never made that mistake TWICE today EVER!! Lol
Is there a video that shows this step by step??
@@rodbingaman6985 I remember what my grandfather said,"The elapsed time between making the same mistake in a given work period will greatly increase with a little bit of rigorous practice."
Love the video except the table saw clip at 6:16 ... I'm not usually a safety freak but I wouldn't show clips using a table saw rips without a fence to viewers might not know better.
Only base I would sand to make fit floor would be if stain grade ( could not caulk )
My 1 & 2 best are to shim the back if wowee in wall plane .
Make up outside corners and secure 1st ,
The inside is slam ( caulk if gaps )
Best is to stretch measuring tape on floor ( locked) line up a mid stud mark with backing side of wall outlets .
Never waste a minute looking for nail backing . Do these FAST and make $
Excellent baseboard miter tips!
Thanks for the degree correction on outside corners
Finish carpentry or trim or framing work or fitting a door, use a cordless Makita planer to dial in any line or bevel or edge. Fine tune any situation . Replacement blades come in 10 pc pack.
Cool guys work in their socks, especially white socks. Nice.
Dont bring dirt in on the new floor!
Excellent video. I'm really surprised how common you say the first two mistakes are. The only one I didn't know was #4... specifically using a shim to act as a guide to mark where to trim. And BTW... i have that same Bosch sander. Definitely the best cheap random orbital sander out there and hooked up to a shop-vac you've got pretty much dust free sanding. I'm looking at buying Bosch's beast of a sander, the GET75-n6 with the switch to turn on/off powered rotary mode. Its expensive but sometimes the little bosch isn't enough.
I completely forgot about doorjams! Thank god I watched this before ordering
Good stuff thanks for the angle numbers that is bound to help.
Quick tip ...if for whatever reason you're planning to reuse the base or case that you're removing ... always pull the nails/brads through the back .
if you try to pound " finishing nails " from the back out the front ( would seem to be the logical thing ) you will most likely end up with " tear out " with natural wood . and kind of " blistering " with MDF .
If " brad nails ( usually 18ga ) are used , they are damn near impossible to pound out ,( too thin and will simply bend ) so pulling through the back is pretty much a given.
The other advantage of pulling through the back , is that it doesn't leave holes in the front to have to refill.
I find that using " channel lock plyers ( with a rounded/cured side ) lets me get a good bit on the nail and then prying over on the curved side , gives a smooth pry to remove the nails .
Another fun to watch and extremely helpful video. Thanks !
I'm using composite pigmented baseboard in my current renovation, some of these tips will help out for sure because I don't want to use caulking and have to paint something that already has the colour I want!
You have your own set of issues. I would not use a pre primed and painted baseboard or any trim piece for that matter. There’s no way to make it seamless, unless the manufacturer provides a color coded caulk. In most cases caulking finishes off the baseboard, integrating it to the wall and other areas where it touches, not to mention helping fix the occasional infer or over cut miter.
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Liked the “Boom” at the end.
Thanks Ana, I appreciate you checking out the vid🔥
So you finish carpenters DO judge our spotty work when you visit, I always knew it.
😂yes! it’s all we see
It's not usually on purpose. I did roofing for years and just driving down the road a bad roof jumps out at you.
Literally the first thing we look at 😂
1:52 and 2:18 seem to contradict each other. Why the switch? At 4:50 is pure gold!
Masterful tips - Wow you make it look so simple... Cheers Mate
🍻
In terms of placing baseboards flush with the floor, when installing a floating floor (vinyl), the baseboards were to be placed 1/16 - 1/8 above the flooring to prevent pinching and provide enough air flow on a basement cement floor.
Love that intro. ❤
Worst thing is that I recognize myself in it. 😅
Shoemolding or quarter round also hide floor gaps although it can make/add to casing transition problems due to increasing the effective baseboard depth. Previous owners added 3/4" quarter round to existing 3-1/4" baseboard and the results at my house are disappointing, but I have seen it work well with taller baseboards.
Yes, shoe moulding creates its own problems for sure. I've always been a fan of fitting the baseboards to the floor, and if a should moulding is necessary I will make them very thin and try to make it seem like part of the baseboard.
@@ghostfive7119 Is it still a cover up when the reveal is in plain sight?
Thanks for this video!! So helpful! How do you build up under doorframes when you are putting in a thinner floor? We have 3 layers of floor that are being removed....
Anytime I pry against drywall, I back it with a board. You can dent the drywall. The board spreads the pressure out.
Or push down real hard on the dip part. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. But it has saved me time.
Trim Puller - brand name tool if you can find it. Add it to your box. The absolute best way to remove trim and casing without damage to the pieces.
I don't butt or mitre internal corners on profile baseboard, I cross cut with a 45° angle and use a coping saw to cut along the line, it's a perfect match for the profile
The angle 45 & 3/4. Very helpful!
THANK YOU. I might have to do this job in a bedroom of a house were selling. At least I now know what to look for..
This is a great video. I’m currently replacing all the door casings and baseboard in my home to a wider flat stock type molding. I’ve never done anything like this before so it’s a real learning experience for me. I started in the water closet in the master bath. It’s a small room where it’s just the toilet. I did 45s on the inside corners and didn’t get as tight of a fit as I’d have liked. Since you said it’s ok to butt ends on flat stock I’m going to try that going forward and see how it looks. I had originally thought about doing that just to make it easier for me but I was afraid that was wrong. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Can't believe you don't have more subscribers, such a good channel
Great information. Thank you. I am ill and disabled, and it's been a long time since I have done any work on this house. Since COVID-19, you cannot find Handymen who know what they are doing; people cheat you and charge you a fortune. I should not be attempting any of this, but I am going to try. Wish me luck!
A simple inside outside corner trick for quick work is just go 47 degrees outsides and 43 insides (only adding the 1/2 degree might not be quite enough then you have a second cut anyways). You will have a tiny gap running toward your wall that gets solved with a quick dab of painters caulk. Most people will finish joints with a tiny bit of caulking anyway so It's really insignificant.
I carry a Starrett angel finder. If an outside corner reads 46° I cut it at 46 + a smidgen just to make sure the outside of the miter is closed. As a journeyman cutting them automatically at 47 doesn't work. Too gappy.
47/43 might be too off esp for outside cuts
Apologies if I don’t understand your comment. It seems you are advocating for mitred inside corners. Why would that ever be better than coping profiled moulding or back cutting butt joints for square stock? Anything else is not professional grade.
I'm using flat stock MDF to make baseboards. One side is perfectly square, the other has a slightly eased (bull-nosed?) edge. Which side should go up? I like the look of the square edge but I'm afraid it might be more prone to dents. Maybe the eased edge looks more finished? We have eight foot ceilings, except in the living room. Should I go with baseboards that measure 4 1/2" or 5 1/2" thick. Decisions drive me crazy. Our door casing is RB03. Is it too fancy to go well with flat baseboard? TIA
Another great video, thank you! Still working on mine.
If there's a gap in the center grap some timber place on top of the skirting and stand on it then fix it to the wall
Can work for sure
One thing these guys should say but don't.. INVEST IN GOOD TOOLS!! I recently installed baseboards on my house and couldn't for the life of me figure out why every single cut was crooked and not lining up. I thought I must be an idiot or something. I called a buddy of mine that has a very expensive miter saw with a built in table and boom! Every single cut was dead on! Make the investment and don't use cheap tools. That old saying "a poor workman blames his tools" is a crock of shit.
Boom. Good tips. Those flat trim pry bars seem to grow legs. I need to buy a fourth.
problem is a lot of people have them and then every time they see one they assume it's theirs
Thank you Sir; I subscribed this morning.
New subscriber with a question, please: Removed old vinyl bathroom floor trim, but the wall still had some VERY sticky adhesive remaining, which laughs at acetone and Goo Gone. I'd like to replace the removed vinyl with PVC trim, "Veranda 7318" from Home Depot, and I've learned that the proper adhesive for that would be Loctite 3X PL. SO- what to do about the old, remaining yucky adhesive?
Thank you!
That's rough! I would try a razor scrapper, and or the scraper part of a Richards Red Bar. Best wishes!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter
Just finished loosening the adhesive with a hair dryer (could’ve used a heat gun), basically liquifying it a bit, and then scraping, wiping the glue off the scraper with Scott’s towel. Appears to be a solution.
Thanks for the response 😊
Is it a new style just using the baseboard alone, because ive done plenty of trimming and ive alwats installed quarter round or shoe to give it a extra touch and it conceals all the floor issues. The scribing is awesome, it does work.
I am really impressed keep it up this is super helpful to many people.
Great info brother. Thank you 🙏🏽
In Tip 3, what is the name of the tool you use to measure the angles of the inside corners? (At 4:42) Thanks, this has been helpful.
So can you tell me the name of the tool?
Suddenly my little room remodel is looking pretty trash.
But now I know!
And knowing is half the battle.
Small improvements over time brother!
My table saw only goes to 45 degrees. I don't think I can stand this long board on end to do a 45.75 degree cut. Do you actually have a way to make that cut? I definitely need to do it as you were spot on with pointing out the problem.
Thank you for the great tips! Really appreciate it!!!👍
I follow Finish Carpentry videos using the starrett angle finder or husky finder.
This was a really helpful video but the way you’re using the table saw at 6:17 is going to haunt my dreams forever.
you are awesome. I learned a lot and used the skills for my DIY renovation project!
Ha that exact flat bar is also used for beekeeping (I have a few for that purpose).
Really good information. Thank you for sharing !!
Use a grinder to "cut" grind your cope joints. I tried it instead of using a coping saw and it was awesome.
I’ve used the Festool Ras for coping it’s pretty nice once you get the hang of it. 🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thanks for the reply!
Oh yeah just do it the fastest way…shows your a true carpenter
@@johnlebzelter4208 If I find a way that’s easier and does a better looking job then I’m going to use it. At least I’m making coping joints, a lot of DIYers don’t even go to the trouble. I even add “returns” on all of my trim too. Not that I’m trying to brag or anything lol
Ever seen the internal corner technique where you cut the profile at 45 degrees and then cut the edge with a fret saw ?
You never ever get a gap !
This is done in Scotland
I love the animation on the numbers! =)