Yep. If they just watched the first 20 secs. he basically disclaims the entire video. As a Contractor, I think his methods are spot on. My favorite comment from below so far is, "Just learn to cut your corners....durr durr..." So, sir/madam, are you claiming that you, a human, are perfect? Thought not. Mistakes are made, it's how you fix them that defines you.
No, no, we just like goofing on Canadians, man. Besides, I dig how he likes living on the edge and not using any tape on the floor. I was kn the edge of my seat wigh that one. Whew!
By far the clearest most concise most visually interesting and easy to understand instructions - as well as being clearly present. I had done 15 years of carpentry and still learn something new every time I watch one of his instructional videos. Even just getting a refresher course on the basics makes me realize how much of the small subtle things I’d forgotten. Bravo Ben!
First time I've seen one of your videos. I'm a 66 year old woman but like to do some of my own home improvements. I will be watching more and thank you. Better late than never.
I love your stuff. I'm a union carpenter Foreman in Manhatten. But I mostly deal with hanging metal/ wood ceilings in high end spaces. So to say you've taught me a lot about taping, mud and spackle would be an understatement. Thank you very much for your informative videos.
Just want to send a thanks to you, Vancouver Carpenter. I did a small home reno project building a wall for my wife’s music room, and it went pretty well. I watched a few of your videos to help me learn what to do and not do with drywall and trim. Thanks for doing what you do!
The amount of effort to make a video and upload it is never worth the 413 thumbs downs. Thank you for sharing this tip, this is helpful and appreciated.
I've often seen gaps in base trim and figured people just have to live with bad carpentry. Your videos show how easily DIYers can fix these. Your attention to detail is much appreciated and demonstrating your technique is invaluable.
Not really "quality" if the miter is wide open. Should have been cut right the first time. I've seen lots of finishers do this and say "whatever its paint grade trim". So if you're a finisher that does this what are you going to do on the stain grade jobs? I've had finishers that had never worked with stain grade try and throw it up like this with open joints and gaps just to have to pull it off and replace it. Plus all that filler at the tip, hollow behind will dry and crack later and look bad down the road once the homeowner is moved in and comfortable. Doesn't give the homeowner a good feeling when they're new home starts showing flaws shortly after moving in
I've been watching "how to do baseboard, miters, trim videos all day. This guy is good. I have been a pro painter, sheet rocker, and carpenter and I've gotta say -- this guy is good.
I've never lived in a house in my life with perfectly mitred skirting boards, even when I had a house built from scratch. The only gap filling I've ever witnessed was with thick gloss paint. So I hope whoever buys this place drops something on the floor so they get down on their knees and appreciate the effort! Incidentally, here in the UK tiny gaps often occur because the timber stock wasn't seasoned in the house after occupation, i.e. the skirtings were put on during build and often before the central heating goes on. At the point of inspection the mitres are perfect. Then the family moves in, turns on the heating, and gaps sometimes (not always) start to appear. It's just part of the character of the house I suppose.
A Teleskier ...especially if you get the wood from Selco, it’s all wet one end and twists half an inch out of square, you can always go to wickes and get 100 knots with a bit of timber joining them up.
When the heat is turned on for the first time, don't turn the temperature up all at once. Raise the temperature over a couple of days, otherwise you can crack all of the caulk.
This is one guy who's videos I don't talk shit on. He's informative, respectable and gives solid opinionated info unlike most of youtube. Also nice to see somebody not constantly spamming shit products that asia makes.
Hahah...at first when I read you comment, I thought you said "this is the only guy I don't talk shit on"...and thought, this guy must be a real Douchebag...hahaha I agree, this guy is great.
Im a carpenter and was working with a friend of mine 2nd fixing houses for a building company... we were on price so we very busy...and the specs on the job was mitres were not allowed to be opened like in thumb nail...so i was cutting he was fitting and measuring and we got stuck in and he said all your mitres were perfectly done how was that cause we had to use mitre bond glue rapid set on all the the mitres on the skirting, its simple trick, instead of 45* used 47* he laughed at me and said for 20 years he never thought to do that once...works great with plastered walls. But your still giving out sound advice, lots of people turn to you tube now for advice, im sure you ll be inundated with comments, all the best.
As a construction working I really appreciate these videos man! Seriously thank you . While I’m Drywalling I watch all these videos and keep leaning things I don’t already know. I feel if we don’t want to learn ,we don’t wanna get better
I'm a carpenter maintenance for Hilton hotel I always watch your technique and execution and I like it work smart not harder always think out of the box there's always solution more mistake more you learn and improve and always share what the easy way to others sometimes its easy to do this for you but not to others always be open minded and respect what someone suggested
I learned a couple things by watching this video.....how to repair the trim joints in my house that were like this when I bought it AND how to prevent this if I am cutting my own trim in the future. And your moral character is leagues above all these “pros” who won’t even acknowledge that they’ve ever made a mistake like this before. Thank you for the great video!
I'm from the east coast U.S.A. and I busted out laughing on the spackle/joint compound because your comment was spot on! A ton of people confuse the different types of materials to work with on the eastern side!
I am a first time diyer for home repairs. The video is helping me a lot. I have read a few of the negative comments out of curiosity. If I buy the tools and materials he recommends--and it works--this is all that matters to me.
I gotta say, this video helped me way more than expected. I did the caulking for miters and it does shrink. You just saved my life with the wood glue thing
Turns out the best drywaller on YT (at least your tape & knife work) does trim work too. It would be great to see how you fill inside corners especially with contours! I appreciate your "short & to the point" videos! No long opening music that hurts our ears & not 15 minutes+ of video letting us know how much personality you think you have containing 5 min or less of the content we clicked to see. Many thanks for posting!
I always like seeing what others do. I have used putty, caulk, bondo, and even durabond. One has to be creative when working on old (75yrs plus) homes, nothing is close to consistent or square. Bows in the floor, wall not square to each other, etc. Makes it fun.
I consider Him a Professor. Damn, the thing I've learned from Him. Than U sincerely Vancouver Carpenter. I hope hope U & your family are safe & healthy amid this Pandemic Catastrophe.
One trick we used to use on miter folded beams was to burnish the corners with a screwdriver, or anything that's round, hard, and smooth. You rub the miter to bend those fibers together and close up your corner, it has it's limitations but it's saved me a lot of filling.
Dude- thank you. I figured this out 25yrs ago, when i was 25. Corner bead corners are ACUTE!😂 45° outside miters will never close. People also think that coping is some kind of fancy carpentry. It is an enormous cheat for inside sheatrock 90s, at the floor, being always completely mud blobbed, hollow, and anything but plumb and 90°😂 I have seen a million tradesman vids like this, that are mostly full of dukey. This one is right on time. 46ish degrees, and build the corners out of 2 or three pieces, where you can, before sticking to the wall.
WOW, I can not believe all the "holier than thou" attitude. I am a DIY'r and I appreciate videos like this to help out. I don't think this was aimed at the pros or the one who think they are pros. Besides why are all the "pros" watching this. :) Thanks for the video.
Yeah, most certainly, most pro carpenters, don't do their own painting. If a pro leave too many open joints, the painters may back charge the contractor, or at the very least mock the skills of the carpenter, and demand beers after work.
Because adding information to their database of tricks is what MAKES them PROS! The rest of you just stay mediocre, we don't care...unless you're working for us!
I use wood putty instead of calk for most gap filling. It gives a clean, sharp edge that (as you showed) can be sanded. Also, putty provides some structure making the gap less likely to reopen. Thank you for another great video.
About fifteen years ago I put put up some 4x4 posts on my screen porch, There was open grain in the knotholes and a few other divots that needed to be filled. I used Bondo (a polyester resin-based putty used for auto body filler). It's non-shrinking and extremely strong, and it sands very well too. To finish sealing the knots I used dewaxed shellac to seal them and prevent resin bleed-through, which will happen with Southern Yellow Pine, regardless of how many coats of paint you put on it. They look great today, so it worked well. I can't tell where any of the knots are--the paint is smooth and there's no bleed-through to leave a hint. Great video BTW. I've heard that if the gap is very minor you can take the smooth edge of a Phillips (or Robertson) screwdriver and press it against the edge of the miter to round over the edge and fill in the gap. Obviously that wouldn't work well for a gap as large as you were hiding--the corner would be too rounded and not look good.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot...another product you can get at the home centers (in the paint department) is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It's a powder that you mix with water to a putty consistency and it dries a beige-brown. Like Bondo, it dries without shrinking and is very strong and hard. It sands well and takes paint well too. A good alternative to Bondo, and easier to mix since you just add a little bit of water and stir. I use it a lot when I was a teenager building scenery for my HO railroad. It made great rocks and cliffs.
It's funny how it looks so simple but when I attempt it In realize I need to go watch how you do it;) Your videos are awesome and right to the point. Thank you
OK! As a DIY’er I’m hooked...subscribed. I just finished a room with shiplap and every board required 22 degree bevel cuts....wish I would have watched this first.
As I do my final vertical wipe upwards I slowly slide the blade sideways away from the vertical edge which helps prevent excess filler from piling up along that edge. A common reason for open joints at corners is simply out-of-square drywall due to imperfect framing. I cut tests out of short pieces when I'm installing Oak, etc., trim to be sure of my installation before I ruin long pieces of trim.
sometime, somehow, somewhere this video will help a lot of people who want to fix around their house. I like this work because I don't have enough money to hire a professional>+1
Thanks. This really helped me out. I have been trying to figure out how to make my baseboards look better and this video popped up on my feed. It answer a lot of my questions about why my joints look like crap. Thank you for making videos.
After asking a few carpenters that do this work for a living, i found out there are several factors for why the gaps could appear in the trim work after installation. One reason is the trim needs to be acclimated prior to installation, this is mostly never done during construction. The second reason is the corners or joints needs to glued and pinned, that can help quite a bit. Third reason is the temperature changes inside the house, its generally expansion and contraction. I'm in New Jersey and the trim in my house shows some gaps from time to time, more so after a really cold winter.
You are absolutely correct but the #1 reason in my opinion is the piece are cut incorrectly and that is usually because they are using and older saw that it no longer accurate. Plus if there is a huge gap to start you shouldn't nail it! I always double check my finish saws for straight, 90 and 45 angles. most saws have adjustment screws and stops to help zero everything. And like he said in the video, for outside corners going a little over 45 helps the outside corner touch which is the first part you'll notice.
I gave automotive body filler, "Bondo" a try for some really bad cracks. It was far better than any wood filler I've ever used, it doesn't crack or shrink, and it gives a more permanent fix. For outside corners that are subject to damage afterwards, Bondo is better.... Of course you need to paint afterwards.
Recently bought my first house, getting little bits done until I'm more confident handling the bigger stuff - I thought I was pretty good with plastering (as we call it here...) until I saw your videos. Thanks for the education! I had no idea that some people call it mud :D I love that name for it! I definitely had a 'told ya so' moment when some got on the floor :P
Fun, isn't it? :) I've been working on a remodel in a spare bedroom over a couple of months. Level 5 finish over knockdown texture wall and painted popcorn ceiling (1971 house, likely asbestos, already painted by previous owners). Putting my final skim coat on the ceiling tomorrow, then sand and primer before paint. Ben's videos have been kinda following along where I've been in my spare time. One wall had old baseboard electrical (flipped that 12ga wiring and box around for a dedicated outdoor 20A utility circuit, all wiring was run and breakers still in the box, wiring disconnected), cable TV inlet, phone jack, poor patching, curtain rod pullouts, nail pops from the original build, etc, so I practiced a bunch of different filling and taping techniques. My 10yo daughter is getting that bedroom when I'm done and she loves watching the videos and seeing the results when she gets home from school. :) We're just about to trim now and I'll be building a wide flower pot holding window sill. :) Informative videos and fun to watch.
Thank you I bought my first home and unfortunately was not able to pay contractors so it’s DIY. This was one of the hardest jobs so there were a few touch ups. Thank you!!!!!
Great video ... my hired guys used caulk instead of wood filler and with this help I will attempt to remedy the work...thanks for the help to remedy my stress.
I agree- these are the most instructive videos that I have found when trying to do a good job on my painting project. All the little details make all the difference. I have spent nearly 3 days TH-cam videos, and now I have my new Newborn dripless caulk gun and the right caulk to do my trim, with my tip cut and sanded to the correct angle. I just wish that I could spread joint compound like this guy- ugh!
Great video.... I’ve said it before.... you always seem to give tips right when I need them. Putting up baseboard and this tip is awesome! Thanks for the videos!!!!
Awesome. Now I know how to fix my baseboards. Yep, new build and this is how the “pros” left them. Actually the open corners are the least of the issue but I think sanding fixes most of the problems and then repainting
Glad to see you using wood filler instead of caulk. Only hacks use caulk when filling gaps. I usually end up doing 2, sometimes 3 quick coats. The putty dries pretty quickly, so does not take too much time.
I can say as a contractor that what he's showing will work in a pinch. We're all advancing our skills at carpentry (in this case trim), hopefully. This is something anyone can do when presented with this problem, whether they cut the trim or not. As a pro tip I will say this on topic: No need to carry any special fillers or spackling. Just mix latex glue in water, not much glue, just enough to make the water look milky (I use stone glue it's cheaper and Ialways l always have leftovers from concrete work, I suppose wood glue could work). Use the milky water to mix durabond or other hot mud. Fill with that. Won't shrink, very strong. In a pinch we've used this recipe to level low spots on floors before laying hardwood or click together. Cheers
"I don't need tape, I'm a pro!" Famous last words. :) Also, something I hear frequently from my father-in-law about his painting skills. Then the number of times I heard him say "oops" while helping us paint our new house, and repaint my wife's childhood bedroom after she moved out... :)
Alright lads we've all had coffee so let's just take in what's being said, appreciate the fact he's posted a video to help people,and when that's done give your fannies a wipe and stop complaining and ask yourself why you've just watched a video on dealing with bad corners 🤔
Before we answer your dipshit question Mr KnowsItAll why don't you explain your being here?.. OMG'sh could it be you snuck in to watch and learn from one of the best on how to fix an open miter cut because you jacked a miter cut ?... Everyone has a reason for being here bro so come with it.!!!.. FYI, mine for this one is just because he's a real cutie 😍 since I don't muck my miter cuts😜
I liked that comment on the difference between "Spackle" and "Drywall Compound". I live and work in that Eastern region you mentioned and you'd be surprised at how many times those two descriptions get mangled and twisted into each other. It drives me crazy!
I was a professional trim carpenter for a few years. I found the reason most people had bad miters was a result of laying the baseboard down and tilting the blade - bad method. Better to stand up baseboard and turn table. another tip - never 45 and inside corner - one piece square and cope the other piece to meet it, you will never have an open corner. If you want a line to cope hit the baseboard with a 45 and follow the inside edge of the cut.
Glad I was able to help. Make sure you try the coping saw for the inside miters. Back around 1980 we were doing a lot of upscale houses with Mahogany, a gap or filler was not an option. A trick if you are using finished wood like Mahogany and there and there is a tiny gap on an outside miter which can happen if the wall is not a perfect 90 degrees is just lightly tap the corner of the joint and it will close it up so it doesn't catch your eye. Back to my bathroom reno. Cheers
I watched Scottish finishing carpenter do a high end dental office with 1 1/4" X 6" oak. All the inside and rounded outside corners where perfect, no fillers used. It is possible to do a good job. We all can do it.
Very nicely and accessibly presented - and a HUGE problem with my DIY moldings! I *thought* that wood putty was the answer, but I really wasn't sure how to apply it! Thanks!
Another trick when you are filling those cracks and then painting, is to use an old putty knife to stick under the trim. It keeps the mess off the floor, just remember to keep wiping the knife off when you are using it while painting.
Taping/putty knife shield on a wood floor is asking for scratches, Tile only. If you have a floor/base gap(you suck) then just use a 3×5 note card(keep a pack in truck) as a shield.
We all have tar paper leftover from doing a roof. Cut some into 4" wide strips and use them to tuck under baseboard, etc. It is stiff, thin and does not scratch or mark. I have been doing it for years and keep a small wad of strips specially for the purpose, reusing them. 😊
Tip for using a sheet of sandpaper: fold in half one way, then fold it in half the other. Now there's a cross of folds dividing it in four. Tear down one of the folds to the center - just half way across. Now fold the sheet round on itself (fold left, fold up, fold right for instance) and you have a full quarter-sheet, four thicknesses, and none of the folds have brought abrasive into contact with abrasive. Just like your book-fold, but you get a whole quarter-sheet, not a skinny eighth!
Currently doing my own skirting and the mitres are horrific. I want to blame the walls but must take some of the blame for my mitre cuts. I knew what I have to do but seeing it being done helped. Thanks alot!
Or when u are cutting and installing skirting boards Save the sawdust and mix the sawdust with pva glue which dries clear Mix it up so its quite wet and use this to fill any gaps. A perfect match wood filler and can b painted or stained ☺
Let me tell you how I got a quarter inch gap in my mitered inner corner....on my back porch, in my very old house, where Plato’s world of ‘perfect solids, and perfect geometry’ did not visit.
As someone born and raised on the East Coast US who has heard people use "joint compound", "spackle", and "mud" all interchangeably my whole life? That last little zinger was perfect. :)
You know what’s funny is that this guy is showing people how to fix corners that have gaps that maybe someone else did or a less experienced home owner would do its not a reflection on HIS work. Come on haters get a grip. Thanks this was a good video
I love the line "Caulk and paint, make a Carpenter what he ain't!" (I refer to myself and no one else, LOL!) Great tips - I've been doing the caulk bit and always disappointed. Thank You!
I wish I had watched this before I bought the exact same "crappy" saw lol. It's working fine for me so far. Didn't know about the 46 degree cuts but I would have gotten a different saw if I had watched this. Great info sir!
I've done this before on a couple of corners I screwed up and was running low on trim. It was my house and it bothered me because, while you couldn't see it, I knew what I did. Staining all of my work in our current house so I'll have to get it all right.
I live in a very old home & trying to do repairs ourselves. Not sure how one of the baseboards got chipped on the edge but this will certainly help. Thanks for your tips!!💙😊
if it is in a high traffic area, you may want to go with bondo instead of a wood putty/filler...this will require a little sanding but will be a more permanent fix...
Love your videos!! I am trying to redo my house alone on a single teacher budget. I have very little knowledge on these things. Thank you for taking the time to post these how to videos!! They are so helpful!!
I have tried for 30 years DIY on my house and still make mistakes buying the right tools and materials. Making my own gate, that looked simple in a video, cost $500 in supplies and eventually had to hire someone for $700. (; It is really hard trying to find the right painters, plumbers, etc. I found Charlie DIYte from England that has some good ideas too. Good luck on redoing house. Try to have some fun and don't worry about the mistakes if they aren't too costly. Retired teacher-Woman
P.S. to my first reply-I think (only my opinion) women accept less from a workman, are more gullible, and don't want to complain. silly It has been foolishly my experience time and time again to be taken in by unconsciously thinking a workman/woman is a friend. I can't seem to get it that it is a business and not a friendship. I even tip and then realize what an inadequate job they did. My last painter, of which I had ten years ago, and again recently, had an 18 year old sick dog and so the week job went into 3 weeks and- I completed 1/2 the job myself and still paid him for the entire job. Hopefully, you will have more courage and wisdom to, "speak truth to power." ;)
Switch your miter saw to about 51°. It increases the lead of your "point" . You may wind up with a small gap on top of where your wall corner meets both planes but it's a small gap and very easy to caulk.
Excellent video. Been using caulk for years, will try this although might be harder to sand a complex form like crown. Virtually all corners are more or less than 90 deg. I did OS corner crowns by using an angle tool and setting saw with that and got perfect 46.5 miters on a 93 deg OS corner.
well uhh golly gee. Mr. Vancouver smoosier and yourself have really helped me out a great deal I reckon. Ya see I'm from them there east coast-ish sides of the U.S. and so I weren't edumacated to the word there uhhh spackle n mud. huhuh, You fellers sure is smart ones. BTW its "Drywall Joint Compound" if ya wanna get so fn technical like that, not mud, I coulda enjoyed the vid if it weren't for that comment, oh and his other lame attempts at jokes, and him in general. performing scripted simpleton repairs my 7yo girl can do. snowflakes making stereotypes!! "Drives me crazy!" >rolls eyes
@@petepistachio8229is that the thing to do? call a child ya never met a dope? and this is the highlighted reply?!? Good thing you're too fn undereducated to waste my time with. you have a pleasant day there pal.
This is usually caused by to much mud on the corner bead. You can fix this a couple of ways. One mark the top of the base board, and shave the mud off below the line, you corner closes right up! Second approach is to cut your trim a hair long and float the trim away from the wall, caulking the gap at the top. And yes, you can also cut a 46, or 47 degree miter. "Putty and paint make the carpenter what he aint"
Ignore the haters here, you did a fantastic job. I don't know why a "pro" would be watching this anyhow. I am a professional DIYer lol and watching these videos is a tremendous help, that's an understatement to be honest. So that being said your video gave me a ton of useful tips to salvage my baseboards and make them aesthetically looking as possible. Remember your doing this for people like me and it was a very resourceful video. I subscribed thanks!!!
I agree with you. First off, I don't have any of the stuff they recommend you use. 2nd of all, I don't understand most of what they're talking about. 3rd of all, this video is about how to FILK the gaps; not PREVENT them. The work has already been done - and likely by someone else. This is great. Nice, easy to understand, quick and to the point. Perhaps the pros should make their own videos.
When all the comments are complaining about angry comments that you can't see, because there are so many comments complaining about the angry comments.
John Martinez A lot of the complainers are people saying just be good and you won’t have corners like this. The real reason people should complain, is wood filler or drywall puddy are actually terrible for joints and open miters. If you can’t caulk it or draw it in with a trim screw in the MDF, it needs to be re cut.
The reason, is that caulk doesn’t shrink, when you paint caulk it dries and can’t fully stretch. These joints act as expansion points, when you fill the gaps with wood filler you eliminate all movable space. Usually it’s not an issue, BUT it can cause your trim to buckle and draw away from the wall.
@@TwoBitty Like no trim carpenter's are using wood or CA glues on their miter and copped joints, right? Besides, most paint grade moldings, baseboard, etc. are made of short sections of finger-jointed Pine or MDF with a factory applied primer. Those two factors blowup the whole joint needs to expand and contract argument, not to mention all the fasteners along its length, used to secure it to the wall (bottom plate and/or studs). Also, no one in their rightmind is buying premium stain-grade one piece clear lengths of Popular, Pine, etc. mouldings to painting them.
Perfectly said...my first thought when scrolling down to the comment section was about how many snotty carpenters would comment.. but now I'm actually getting used to the fact that the comments are more about how snotty the snotty comments are and I really never see the snotty comments and don't even know if they exist
I appreciate all of your videos, and during the COVID outbreak, I used some extra time to do some of this stuff myself...and it’s very cool do do something RIGHT that I would have either paid someone to do, or with small stuff, botched it myself, or just live with it. For the pros complaining...why are you clicking if you’re already so good?
I had a good technique when I did a lot of baseboard. Have short trial angles cut out and keep them in your tool belt pocket. You can see how off you are from 45 degrees, either inside or outside corners.
For the "pros" ragging this guy, he is helping the diy-ers, those of us that may only do this once in their lifetime.
Yep. If they just watched the first 20 secs. he basically disclaims the entire video. As a Contractor, I think his methods are spot on. My favorite comment from below so far is, "Just learn to cut your corners....durr durr..." So, sir/madam, are you claiming that you, a human, are perfect? Thought not. Mistakes are made, it's how you fix them that defines you.
@@TN_Travesty sir/madam????? How dare you assume my gender identity! I am an attack helicopter damnit!
J. Ray Redden , exactly!
J. Ray Redden everyone’s a professional tough guy on the internet.
No, no, we just like goofing on Canadians, man. Besides, I dig how he likes living on the edge and not using any tape on the floor. I was kn the edge of my seat wigh that one. Whew!
By far the clearest most concise most visually interesting and easy to understand instructions - as well as being clearly present. I had done 15 years of carpentry and still learn something new every time I watch one of his instructional videos. Even just getting a refresher course on the basics makes me realize how much of the small subtle things I’d forgotten. Bravo Ben!
Well said Sir !
these bot comments are getting out of control .
Note to self: Before committing a crime, ... repair some molding.
First time I've seen one of your videos. I'm a 66 year old woman but like to do some of my own home improvements. I will be watching more and thank you. Better late than never.
I love your stuff. I'm a union carpenter Foreman in Manhatten. But I mostly deal with hanging metal/ wood ceilings in high end spaces. So to say you've taught me a lot about taping, mud and spackle would be an understatement. Thank you very much for your informative videos.
I’m a master journeyman cabinetmaker and you doing a lot of people a great service!
Just want to send a thanks to you, Vancouver Carpenter. I did a small home reno project building a wall for my wife’s music room, and it went pretty well. I watched a few of your videos to help me learn what to do and not do with drywall and trim. Thanks for doing what you do!
The amount of effort to make a video and upload it is never worth the 413 thumbs downs. Thank you for sharing this tip, this is helpful and appreciated.
Maybe instead of telling people they blew it, and blaming his saw, maybe he should change his approach.
I've often seen gaps in base trim and figured people just have to live with bad carpentry. Your videos show how easily DIYers can fix these. Your attention to detail is much appreciated and demonstrating your technique is invaluable.
Always amazed to see contractors that care about the quality of their work. So hard to find.
Especially for women to find quality in contractors.
Not really "quality" if the miter is wide open. Should have been cut right the first time. I've seen lots of finishers do this and say "whatever its paint grade trim". So if you're a finisher that does this what are you going to do on the stain grade jobs? I've had finishers that had never worked with stain grade try and throw it up like this with open joints and gaps just to have to pull it off and replace it. Plus all that filler at the tip, hollow behind will dry and crack later and look bad down the road once the homeowner is moved in and comfortable. Doesn't give the homeowner a good feeling when they're new home starts showing flaws shortly after moving in
@@bolerdweller if you need to fill your joints, that makes you a filler, not a finisher
@@calebsaville8416 yup. It's faster to do it right than to put it up and have to make it "look" right
I’m 70- still an active carpenter. He’s good, practical and on point.
I'm with you Lewis....I'm 65, been doing this my whole working life. I've learned a thing or two from him.....
I am a first time homeowner and I just discovered this exact problem in my home....this video is a God send. Thank you soo much. Greatly appreciated!
I've been watching "how to do baseboard, miters, trim videos all day. This guy is good. I have been a pro painter, sheet rocker, and carpenter and I've gotta say -- this guy is good.
I've been doing Home Remodeling for a long time, but I find your videos very informative, I always seem to learn a little something
I've never lived in a house in my life with perfectly mitred skirting boards, even when I had a house built from scratch. The only gap filling I've ever witnessed was with thick gloss paint. So I hope whoever buys this place drops something on the floor so they get down on their knees and appreciate the effort!
Incidentally, here in the UK tiny gaps often occur because the timber stock wasn't seasoned in the house after occupation, i.e. the skirtings were put on during build and often before the central heating goes on. At the point of inspection the mitres are perfect. Then the family moves in, turns on the heating, and gaps sometimes (not always) start to appear. It's just part of the character of the house I suppose.
A Teleskier ...especially if you get the wood from Selco, it’s all wet one end and twists half an inch out of square, you can always go to wickes and get 100 knots with a bit of timber joining them up.
@@thpxs0554 :D spot on.
This comment made me laugh
When the heat is turned on for the first time, don't turn the temperature up all at once. Raise the temperature over a couple of days, otherwise you can crack all of the caulk.
This is one guy who's videos I don't talk shit on. He's informative, respectable and gives solid opinionated info unlike most of youtube. Also nice to see somebody not constantly spamming shit products that asia makes.
Hahah...at first when I read you comment, I thought you said "this is the only guy I don't talk shit on"...and thought, this guy must be a real Douchebag...hahaha
I agree, this guy is great.
Im a carpenter and was working with a friend of mine 2nd fixing houses for a building company... we were on price so we very busy...and the specs on the job was mitres were not allowed to be opened like in thumb nail...so i was cutting he was fitting and measuring and we got stuck in and he said all your mitres were perfectly done how was that cause we had to use mitre bond glue rapid set on all the the mitres on the skirting, its simple trick, instead of 45* used 47* he laughed at me and said for 20 years he never thought to do that once...works great with plastered walls. But your still giving out sound advice, lots of people turn to you tube now for advice, im sure you ll be inundated with comments, all the best.
As a construction working I really appreciate these videos man! Seriously thank you . While I’m
Drywalling I watch all these videos and keep leaning things I don’t already know. I feel if we don’t want to learn ,we don’t wanna get better
BIG FOOT you right... who doesn't want to get better
Always appreciate someone who seeks to continually improve their craft.
I'm a carpenter maintenance for Hilton hotel I always watch your technique and execution and I like it work smart not harder always think out of the box there's always solution more mistake more you learn and improve and always share what the easy way to others sometimes its easy to do this for you but not to others always be open minded and respect what someone suggested
I learned a couple things by watching this video.....how to repair the trim joints in my house that were like this when I bought it AND how to prevent this if I am cutting my own trim in the future. And your moral character is leagues above all these “pros” who won’t even acknowledge that they’ve ever made a mistake like this before. Thank you for the great video!
This guy is to the point and really articulate. Very enjoyable to watch and learn from. Cute sense of humor too.
I'm from the east coast U.S.A. and I busted out laughing on the spackle/joint compound because your comment was spot on! A ton of people confuse the different types of materials to work with on the eastern side!
I am a first time diyer for home repairs. The video is helping me a lot. I have read a few of the negative comments out of curiosity. If I buy the tools and materials he recommends--and it works--this is all that matters to me.
I gotta say, this video helped me way more than expected. I did the caulking for miters and it does shrink. You just saved my life with the wood glue thing
Turns out the best drywaller on YT (at least your tape & knife work) does trim work too. It would be great to see how you fill inside corners especially with contours!
I appreciate your "short & to the point" videos! No long opening music that hurts our ears & not 15 minutes+ of video letting us know how much personality you think you have containing 5 min or less of the content we clicked to see. Many thanks for posting!
I always like seeing what others do. I have used putty, caulk, bondo, and even durabond. One has to be creative when working on old (75yrs plus) homes, nothing is close to consistent or square. Bows in the floor, wall not square to each other, etc. Makes it fun.
I consider Him a Professor. Damn, the thing I've learned from Him. Than U sincerely Vancouver Carpenter. I hope hope U & your family are safe & healthy amid this Pandemic Catastrophe.
One trick we used to use on miter folded beams was to burnish the corners with a screwdriver, or anything that's round, hard, and smooth. You rub the miter to bend those fibers together and close up your corner, it has it's limitations but it's saved me a lot of filling.
Dude- thank you. I figured this out 25yrs ago, when i was 25. Corner bead corners are ACUTE!😂 45° outside miters will never close. People also think that coping is some kind of fancy carpentry. It is an enormous cheat for inside sheatrock 90s, at the floor, being always completely mud blobbed, hollow, and anything but plumb and 90°😂 I have seen a million tradesman vids like this, that are mostly full of dukey. This one is right on time. 46ish degrees, and build the corners out of 2 or three pieces, where you can, before sticking to the wall.
WOW, I can not believe all the "holier than thou" attitude. I am a DIY'r and I appreciate videos like this to help out. I don't think this was aimed at the pros or the one who think they are pros. Besides why are all the "pros" watching this. :) Thanks for the video.
Jerk Off All Trades should be your channel name
Yeah, most certainly, most pro carpenters, don't do their own painting. If a pro leave too many open joints, the painters may back charge the contractor, or at the very least mock the skills of the carpenter, and demand beers after work.
Jerk Of All Trades : Just Jerk !
Because adding information to their database of tricks is what MAKES them PROS! The rest of you just stay mediocre, we don't care...unless you're working for us!
I use wood putty instead of calk for most gap filling. It gives a clean, sharp edge that (as you showed) can be sanded. Also, putty provides some structure making the gap less likely to reopen. Thank you for another great video.
About fifteen years ago I put put up some 4x4 posts on my screen porch, There was open grain in the knotholes and a few other divots that needed to be filled. I used Bondo (a polyester resin-based putty used for auto body filler). It's non-shrinking and extremely strong, and it sands very well too. To finish sealing the knots I used dewaxed shellac to seal them and prevent resin bleed-through, which will happen with Southern Yellow Pine, regardless of how many coats of paint you put on it. They look great today, so it worked well. I can't tell where any of the knots are--the paint is smooth and there's no bleed-through to leave a hint. Great video BTW. I've heard that if the gap is very minor you can take the smooth edge of a Phillips (or Robertson) screwdriver and press it against the edge of the miter to round over the edge and fill in the gap. Obviously that wouldn't work well for a gap as large as you were hiding--the corner would be too rounded and not look good.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot...another product you can get at the home centers (in the paint department) is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It's a powder that you mix with water to a putty consistency and it dries a beige-brown. Like Bondo, it dries without shrinking and is very strong and hard. It sands well and takes paint well too. A good alternative to Bondo, and easier to mix since you just add a little bit of water and stir. I use it a lot when I was a teenager building scenery for my HO railroad. It made great rocks and cliffs.
Great tips.. I'm an East Coast carpenter & we use glue/sawdust or vinyl spackling.. Very good instructions..
It's funny how it looks so simple but when I attempt it In realize I need to go watch how you do it;) Your videos are awesome and right to the point. Thank you
OK! As a DIY’er I’m hooked...subscribed. I just finished a room with shiplap and every board required 22 degree bevel cuts....wish I would have watched this first.
for those wildly contoured profiles, try a guitar pick for getting filler up in them mitres!
Whoa! Nice one👍
Damn guitar players have all the hacks haha
Don't fret....
I prefer a dental syringe
pat ryan Now I have to play guitar to do finish carpentry!
Just what I needed! My hubby is doing baseboard. I now know how to make those corners look perfect. Thank you!
As I do my final vertical wipe upwards I slowly slide the blade sideways away from the vertical edge which helps prevent excess filler from piling up along that edge. A common reason for open joints at corners is simply out-of-square drywall due to imperfect framing. I cut tests out of short pieces when I'm installing Oak, etc., trim to be sure of my installation before I ruin long pieces of trim.
43 years in the trades as a carpenter and I am still learning. Thanks.
Huh?? You should known this by now. Slow learner ??
@@downeastermaineusa3794 yeah, still learning cuz I'm not from mayn.
sometime, somehow, somewhere this video will help a lot of people who want to fix around their house. I like this work because I don't have enough money to hire a professional>+1
My pro top level baseboard specialist left many quarter inch gaps like this. Thank you for the video, now I am more pro than the pro!
Thanks. This really helped me out. I have been trying to figure out how to make my baseboards look better and this video popped up on my feed. It answer a lot of my questions about why my joints look like crap. Thank you for making videos.
After asking a few carpenters that do this work for a living, i found out there are several factors for why the gaps could appear in the trim work after installation. One reason is the trim needs to be acclimated prior to installation, this is mostly never done during construction. The second reason is the corners or joints needs to glued and pinned, that can help quite a bit. Third reason is the temperature changes inside the house, its generally expansion and contraction. I'm in New Jersey and the trim in my house shows some gaps from time to time, more so after a really cold winter.
You are absolutely correct but the #1 reason in my opinion is the piece are cut incorrectly and that is usually because they are using and older saw that it no longer accurate. Plus if there is a huge gap to start you shouldn't nail it! I always double check my finish saws for straight, 90 and 45 angles. most saws have adjustment screws and stops to help zero everything. And like he said in the video, for outside corners going a little over 45 helps the outside corner touch which is the first part you'll notice.
I gave automotive body filler, "Bondo" a try for some really bad cracks. It was far better than any wood filler I've ever used, it doesn't crack or shrink, and it gives a more permanent fix. For outside corners that are subject to damage afterwards, Bondo is better.... Of course you need to paint afterwards.
Bondo is great but I hate using it. Too smelly.
Yea smelly and the powder from sanding can stain stuff. Great when needed but it has its issues
spelunkerd good tip. It's the only solid way to patch a hollow core door
@Moon Pie wood expands and contracts bondo is very hard and will always crack some. But hey what you gonna do. I use the same method
I just saw Bondo brand wood filler at Lowe's a few days ago.
Recently bought my first house, getting little bits done until I'm more confident handling the bigger stuff - I thought I was pretty good with plastering (as we call it here...) until I saw your videos. Thanks for the education!
I had no idea that some people call it mud :D I love that name for it!
I definitely had a 'told ya so' moment when some got on the floor :P
Thanks! After 4 months of remodeling my house, most of which I have left to do is the baseboard and I'm sure this will help.
Fun, isn't it? :) I've been working on a remodel in a spare bedroom over a couple of months. Level 5 finish over knockdown texture wall and painted popcorn ceiling (1971 house, likely asbestos, already painted by previous owners). Putting my final skim coat on the ceiling tomorrow, then sand and primer before paint. Ben's videos have been kinda following along where I've been in my spare time. One wall had old baseboard electrical (flipped that 12ga wiring and box around for a dedicated outdoor 20A utility circuit, all wiring was run and breakers still in the box, wiring disconnected), cable TV inlet, phone jack, poor patching, curtain rod pullouts, nail pops from the original build, etc, so I practiced a bunch of different filling and taping techniques. My 10yo daughter is getting that bedroom when I'm done and she loves watching the videos and seeing the results when she gets home from school. :) We're just about to trim now and I'll be building a wide flower pot holding window sill. :) Informative videos and fun to watch.
Thank you I bought my first home and unfortunately was not able to pay contractors so it’s DIY. This was one of the hardest jobs so there were a few touch ups. Thank you!!!!!
It's those extra handy tips, like the one about fingerprint removal at 5:40, that really set you apart. Thanks.
Great video ... my hired guys used caulk instead of wood filler and with this help I will attempt to remedy the work...thanks for the help to remedy my stress.
😂”I don’t know why you would have quarter inch gaps”
Well, shit.. I don’t know why I would either 😂😂😂😂
@@chairmanofthebored8684 🤣🤣🤣
😂
I agree- these are the most instructive videos that I have found when trying to do a good job on my painting project. All the little details make all the difference. I have spent nearly 3 days TH-cam videos, and now I have my new Newborn dripless caulk gun and the right caulk to do my trim, with my tip cut and sanded to the correct angle. I just wish that I could spread joint compound like this guy- ugh!
Great video.... I’ve said it before.... you always seem to give tips right when I need them. Putting up baseboard and this tip is awesome! Thanks for the videos!!!!
Buddy, these videos are simple, effective, and entertaining. Beauty job.
Awesome. Now I know how to fix my baseboards. Yep, new build and this is how the “pros” left them. Actually the open corners are the least of the issue but I think sanding fixes most of the problems and then repainting
Glad to see you using wood filler instead of caulk. Only hacks use caulk when filling gaps. I usually end up doing 2, sometimes 3 quick coats. The putty dries pretty quickly, so does not take too much time.
Really enjoy your meticulous nature. The "little" things do matter, separates pro's from all the rest. 👍👍
I bought an “buy as is house” and I have SO much trim to Caulk! Thank you for this!
I can say as a contractor that what he's showing will work in a pinch. We're all advancing our skills at carpentry (in this case trim), hopefully. This is something anyone can do when presented with this problem, whether they cut the trim or not.
As a pro tip I will say this on topic:
No need to carry any special fillers or spackling. Just mix latex glue in water, not much glue, just enough to make the water look milky (I use stone glue it's cheaper and Ialways l always have leftovers from concrete work, I suppose wood glue could work). Use the milky water to mix durabond or other hot mud. Fill with that. Won't shrink, very strong.
In a pinch we've used this recipe to level low spots on floors before laying hardwood or click together.
Cheers
Would Weldbond work in this mix?
Many youtubers just passing by, but You stand out! Thanks for tips and tricks!
I feel like Canada really has the home renovation and home improvement DIY’er market cornered. Well done.
"I don't need tape, I'm a pro!" Famous last words. :) Also, something I hear frequently from my father-in-law about his painting skills. Then the number of times I heard him say "oops" while helping us paint our new house, and repaint my wife's childhood bedroom after she moved out... :)
Alright lads we've all had coffee so let's just take in what's being said, appreciate the fact he's posted a video to help people,and when that's done give your fannies a wipe and stop complaining and ask yourself why you've just watched a video on dealing with bad corners 🤔
Right, its not like anyone was forced to watch this.
Wait, what am I doing here? Oops
I always try to fix...when it’s broke...🤦♂️
Hilarious
Like if you read this mans comment in an Irish accent
Before we answer your dipshit question Mr KnowsItAll why don't you explain your being here?.. OMG'sh could it be you snuck in to watch and learn from one of the best on how to fix an open miter cut because you jacked a miter cut ?... Everyone has a reason for being here bro so come with it.!!!.. FYI, mine for this one is just because he's a real cutie 😍 since I don't muck my miter cuts😜
I liked that comment on the difference between "Spackle" and "Drywall Compound". I live and work in that Eastern region you mentioned and you'd be surprised at how many times those two descriptions get mangled and twisted into each other. It drives me crazy!
I was a professional trim carpenter for a few years. I found the reason most people had bad miters was a result of laying the baseboard down and tilting the blade - bad method. Better to stand up baseboard and turn table. another tip - never 45 and inside corner - one piece square and cope the other piece to meet it, you will never have an open corner. If you want a line to cope hit the baseboard with a 45 and follow the inside edge of the cut.
Glad I was able to help. Make sure you try the coping saw for the inside miters. Back around 1980 we were doing a lot of upscale houses with Mahogany, a gap or filler was not an option. A trick if you are using finished wood like Mahogany and there and there is a tiny gap on an outside miter which can happen if the wall is not a perfect 90 degrees is just lightly tap the corner of the joint and it will close it up so it doesn't catch your eye. Back to my bathroom reno. Cheers
I watched Scottish finishing carpenter do a high end dental office with 1 1/4" X 6" oak. All the inside and rounded outside corners where perfect, no fillers used. It is possible to do a good job. We all can do it.
Ah a real finish carpenter.
@@gomalibusurf6098 there actually are plenty of videos coping inside Corners is a widely known practice it's definitely no secret tip
Where have you been all my life!!! Living these video tutorials
The shade for 1/4 inch gaps 😅😅😅 I feel called out
I'll try the 46degree miters in my diy corners Thanks for the tips 👍🏽
Very nicely and accessibly presented - and a HUGE problem with my DIY moldings! I *thought* that wood putty was the answer, but I really wasn't sure how to apply it! Thanks!
Another trick when you are filling those cracks and then painting, is to use an old putty knife to stick under the trim. It keeps the mess off the floor, just remember to keep wiping the knife off when you are using it while painting.
@ Yes. Or an old piece of siding or anything flat.
Taping/putty knife shield on a wood floor is asking for scratches, Tile only. If you have a floor/base gap(you suck) then just use a 3×5 note card(keep a pack in truck) as a shield.
We all have tar paper leftover from doing a roof. Cut some into 4" wide strips and use them to tuck under baseboard, etc. It is stiff, thin and does not scratch or mark. I have been doing it for years and keep a small wad of strips specially for the purpose, reusing them. 😊
I learn a lot watching you . Thanks. Helps with my house project I am trying to do myself. Am Ontario native living in New Mexico🙂
Tip for using a sheet of sandpaper: fold in half one way, then fold it in half the other. Now there's a cross of folds dividing it in four. Tear down one of the folds to the center - just half way across. Now fold the sheet round on itself (fold left, fold up, fold right for instance) and you have a full quarter-sheet, four thicknesses, and none of the folds have brought abrasive into contact with abrasive. Just like your book-fold, but you get a whole quarter-sheet, not a skinny eighth!
Nice!
Currently doing my own skirting and the mitres are horrific. I want to blame the walls but must take some of the blame for my mitre cuts. I knew what I have to do but seeing it being done helped. Thanks alot!
Or when u are cutting and installing skirting boards Save the sawdust and mix the sawdust with pva glue which dries clear Mix it up so its quite wet and use this to fill any gaps. A perfect match wood filler and can b painted or stained ☺
Apply the stain into the wet glue mix or you wont have good stain cover.
You're the best! You give me solid Mr. Rogers vibes just not old and for adults ❤
Let me tell you how I got a quarter inch gap in my mitered inner corner....on my back porch, in my very old house, where Plato’s world of ‘perfect solids, and perfect geometry’ did not visit.
As someone born and raised on the East Coast US who has heard people use "joint compound", "spackle", and "mud" all interchangeably my whole life? That last little zinger was perfect. :)
Appreciate u sharing practical tips with us DIY ’ers when u want them to look better!
You know what’s funny is that this guy is showing people how to fix corners that have gaps that maybe someone else did or a less experienced home owner would do its not a reflection on HIS work. Come on haters get a grip. Thanks this was a good video
I love the line "Caulk and paint, make a Carpenter what he ain't!" (I refer to myself and no one else, LOL!) Great tips - I've been doing the caulk bit and always disappointed. Thank You!
"Grinder and paint, for the welder I ain't!" I just weld things properly with a high level of skill, so I don't grind much.
spackle and paint and call it what it ain’t
I wish I had watched this before I bought the exact same "crappy" saw lol. It's working fine for me so far. Didn't know about the 46 degree cuts but I would have gotten a different saw if I had watched this. Great info sir!
I've done this before on a couple of corners I screwed up and was running low on trim. It was my house and it bothered me because, while you couldn't see it, I knew what I did. Staining all of my work in our current house so I'll have to get it all right.
I live in a very old home & trying to do repairs ourselves. Not sure how one of the baseboards got chipped on the edge but this will certainly help. Thanks for your tips!!💙😊
if it is in a high traffic area, you may want to go with bondo instead of a wood putty/filler...this will require a little sanding but will be a more permanent fix...
Man you have the best stuff, just amazing. I have learned so much from you to use on my house. Thank you so so much for your videos!
Love your videos!! I am trying to redo my house alone on a single teacher budget. I have very little knowledge on these things. Thank you for taking the time to post these how to videos!! They are so helpful!!
I have tried for 30 years DIY on my house and still make mistakes buying the right tools and materials. Making my own gate, that looked simple in a video, cost $500 in supplies and eventually had to hire someone for $700. (; It is really hard trying to find the right painters, plumbers, etc. I found Charlie DIYte from England that has some good ideas too. Good luck on redoing house. Try to have some fun and don't worry about the mistakes if they aren't too costly. Retired teacher-Woman
P.S. to my first reply-I think (only my opinion) women accept less from a workman, are more gullible, and don't want to complain. silly It has been foolishly my experience time and time again to be taken in by unconsciously thinking a workman/woman is a friend. I can't seem to get it that it is a business and not a friendship. I even tip and then realize what an inadequate job they did. My last painter, of which I had ten years ago, and again recently, had an 18 year old sick dog and so the week job went into 3 weeks and- I completed 1/2 the job myself and still paid him for the entire job. Hopefully, you will have more courage and wisdom to, "speak truth to power." ;)
Switch your miter saw to about 51°. It increases the lead of your "point" . You may wind up with a small gap on top of where your wall corner meets both planes but it's a small gap and very easy to caulk.
Excellent video. Been using caulk for years, will try this although might be harder to sand a complex form like crown. Virtually all corners are more or less than 90 deg. I did OS corner crowns by using an angle tool and setting saw with that and got perfect 46.5 miters on a 93 deg OS corner.
Thank you for the ending statement! Spackle is not drywall mud! Drives me crazy!
Tyler Wilson. triggered easy? lol
Lol nah just like proper terminology of materials 👌
well uhh golly gee. Mr. Vancouver smoosier and yourself have really helped me out a great deal I reckon. Ya see I'm from them there east coast-ish sides of the U.S. and so I weren't edumacated to the word there uhhh spackle n mud. huhuh, You fellers sure is smart ones. BTW its "Drywall Joint Compound" if ya wanna get so fn technical like that, not mud, I coulda enjoyed the vid if it weren't for that comment, oh and his other lame attempts at jokes, and him in general. performing scripted simpleton repairs my 7yo girl can do. snowflakes making stereotypes!! "Drives me crazy!" >rolls eyes
blackie607 great. You bred an offspring??? Now there is a dope in training on this earth.
@@petepistachio8229is that the thing to do? call a child ya never met a dope? and this is the highlighted reply?!? Good thing you're too fn undereducated to waste my time with. you have a pleasant day there pal.
Thank you fir this video tutorial! Just what I need a demo on! But, it's your humor that compelled me to subscribe!
Thanks bro! You just saved me a lot in recutting! Not the best at molding.
Again… Ben strikes again with some great tips. Big fan. Thank you
When Captain Spackle does outside corners he uses 42° and a whole tube of caulk. Good video.
I love this channel becuase he explains which material to choose and why. Just learned why I should not just use silicone chaulking.
This is usually caused by to much mud on the corner bead. You can fix this a couple of ways. One mark the top of the base board, and shave the mud off below the line, you corner closes right up! Second approach is to cut your trim a hair long and float the trim away from the wall, caulking the gap at the top. And yes, you can also cut a 46, or 47 degree miter.
"Putty and paint make the carpenter what he aint"
46° miter is the easiest and best way though
Ignore the haters here, you did a fantastic job. I don't know why a "pro" would be watching this anyhow. I am a professional DIYer lol and watching these videos is a tremendous help, that's an understatement to be honest. So that being said your video gave me a ton of useful tips to salvage my baseboards and make them aesthetically looking as possible. Remember your doing this for people like me and it was a very resourceful video. I subscribed thanks!!!
I agree with you. First off, I don't have any of the stuff they recommend you use. 2nd of all, I don't understand most of what they're talking about. 3rd of all, this video is about how to FILK the gaps; not PREVENT them. The work has already been done - and likely by someone else. This is great. Nice, easy to understand, quick and to the point. Perhaps the pros should make their own videos.
When all the comments are complaining about angry comments that you can't see, because there are so many comments complaining about the angry comments.
John Martinez A lot of the complainers are people saying just be good and you won’t have corners like this.
The real reason people should complain, is wood filler or drywall puddy are actually terrible for joints and open miters. If you can’t caulk it or draw it in with a trim screw in the MDF, it needs to be re cut.
The reason, is that caulk doesn’t shrink, when you paint caulk it dries and can’t fully stretch.
These joints act as expansion points, when you fill the gaps with wood filler you eliminate all movable space. Usually it’s not an issue, BUT it can cause your trim to buckle and draw away from the wall.
@@TwoBitty Like no trim carpenter's are using wood or CA glues on their miter and copped joints, right? Besides, most paint grade moldings, baseboard, etc. are made of short sections of finger-jointed Pine or MDF with a factory applied primer. Those two factors blowup the whole joint needs to expand and contract argument, not to mention all the fasteners along its length, used to secure it to the wall (bottom plate and/or studs). Also, no one in their rightmind is buying premium stain-grade one piece clear lengths of Popular, Pine, etc. mouldings to painting them.
@@TwoBitty caulk doesn't shrink huh? Not at all..not one bit huh? U sure about that? I'm talking about Alex Plus here...No shrinkage?
Perfectly said...my first thought when scrolling down to the comment section was about how many snotty carpenters would comment.. but now I'm actually getting used to the fact that the comments are more about how snotty the snotty comments are and I really never see the snotty comments and don't even know if they exist
From New York City .... I wold like to thank you.. you are a greate treacher easy to learn and well explained... 🙋🏽♂️
Super well explained and calm and detailed
Thank you so much
New subscriber
I don’t know why I was expecting something more than: “fill it and sand it”, but I was. Still a good video for homeowners.
I appreciate all of your videos, and during the COVID outbreak, I used some extra time to do some of this stuff myself...and it’s very cool do do something RIGHT that I would have either paid someone to do, or with small stuff, botched it myself, or just live with it. For the pros complaining...why are you clicking if you’re already so good?
A little caulk and a little paint make a carpenter what he ain’t. Cool man. Keep it up. Love your vids.
I had a good technique when I did a lot of baseboard. Have short trial angles cut out and keep them in your tool belt pocket. You can see how off you are from 45 degrees, either inside or outside corners.
Exactly!
I never realized how funny you are until this video man 😅