Compared 6 products. Intros, demonstration, conclusions. Left nothing out. All within 6 mins and 34 seconds. You sir, are legend at not wasting a TH-camr's time with unnecessary fill. More content creators could greatly benefit from following your lead. Thank you for caring about our time.
From my point of view I consume a lot of TH-cam to learn things and or to be entertained. It kind of sucks when non entertaining people ramble on for 7 minutes about nothing😂 I try to avoid that the best I can! I do wish on this video I had some better camera sliders or something to get better shots of the test results… and had a bit more time to have worked out and compiled some of the details better.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter don't sweat it my brother. For those of us that have some experience using these products, what you provided was perfect. Anywhere else, this a 24 min video, and unfortunately we've grown use to it. I watch a lot of your videos, and this is your thing. And what that thing is, of course, is that you are a consumer of info - you know what we've come here for, and you deliver that. Please don't ever 'fix' that. 🧡
Been painting for 25+ years and the old school method is by far the best. Crawfords painters putty rolled into a ball ,then you roll it in plaster of Paris. it sets quick and easy to sand the next day. Just push it in with your finger some bigger holes may need a 2nd application.
Interesting video. I don't know any professional who fills holes with a finger. RockHard is hugely popular among NYC contractors, and I've been using it for decades. Yes, you have to mix, but I love that I get to control the consistency, depending on the hole's size. But mostly, I love the product's shelf life. It NEVER dries out. It can sit on the shelf for years and still be perfectly usable. I also LOVE how easy it is to sand once dry. It even sands beautifully with 600 grit paper around gentle edges. I also love how quick drying it is. And, you can add color to it for custom color work. I can't recommend RockHard enough.
I’ve been a landlord for over 35 years, and have had great success with Ready Patch. I do one coat, slightly overfilled, and sand with a damp sanding sponge. Slightly wetting the sponge makes the sanding much easier, and gives a smooth finish. I also put a sheet of plastic wrap over the top of the open can, then add the lid; make sure the lid is on tight, and the product will stay soft.
I fill a lot of nail holes on paint grade trim and my favorite method to date is the drydex but only in a tube. You don’t have to worry about the material drying out or the crappy lid and it goes a long way. The tube allows you to control the amount of material on your finger tip very well and you can easily smash in the amount the fill the hole, then wipe away the excess and I immediately follow up with a light feathered wipe over top of the filled hole to accommodate shrinkage. Even a small room will usually be ready to start sanding by the time I would my way around to my starting point. After that the key is a 1/4 sheet of 3M gold 180 grit. It removes the material in a couple of light swipes, it leaves a very smooth finish without the over sanding divot, and it doesn’t gum up at all. One 1/4 of a sheet goes a very long way. With 18 gauge nail holes or smaller I typically am good to go in one pass, a 15 gauge hole will still often require 2 coats.
@@95thousandroses the first time I used dry dex I was taught to carry a damp (just not soaking wet) rag and wipe the repair just before it dries or as the last of the pink is gone. Doesn't get any smoother but I don't know why I don't see more people doing this.
Kudos to anyone who actually applies two coats of anything as a finish nail filler and sands between coats. With all the things I have to do in my life, it gets one coat, sanded and painted. The difference in that second coat and second sanding is one of those things that I accept and move on with my life.
Love your videos ! Your fun to watch. As a trim carpenter….I find the best way is to minimize your holes by using a stud finder and nailing in the profile so you don’t see them. Then use a bit of Color matched caulk to fill the line where the nail is. I pre spray all my base before install. Flat stock trim I tend to pre spray and glue on with an instant bonding system so I have no nails to deal with at all. I use a 21 gauge Brad nailer for standard trim and an 18 gauge for premium trim 5/8” and up. 1-9/16” brads always to stay away from waterlines etc
@nailit1860 - planning to install flat stock trim in the garage - what brand bonding/glue you like to use for that? Also I was taught the same technique for nailing and pre-spraying - what brand of color-matched caulk you use and how you get it? I never heard of that aside from the typical DAP stuff in the store like White, Brown, Almond, etc.
I do house prepping and I love ready patch. so long as you keep it wet and not dried out, it's a winner, shapeable like a smooth drywall mud, can do small or large repairs on painted wood trim or door frames. One coat, dries quickly.
I'm a contractor and use mostly Dry-Dex. I use a single application with my finger leaving it overfilled and I don't sand it. I smooth it with a damp cleaning sponge.
Thanks! I understand that the Durham's Water Putty loses points for needing to be mixed, BUT, I do LOVE that it doesn't have me reaching for the filler and discover it has dried out and gone bad! Yes, if availabIe I grab other things first, but sooooo often the spackle/wood filler/putty is no longer good, and the water putty sits there for decades, always ready when I need it!
Perhaps the best, most comprehensive and helpful test/review ever published on TH-cam. I was having trouble getting flawless filled nail holes and this fixed it for me. Thanks so much!!!
Nice video thanks for info, I find all your videos very helpful. I am a long time painter and please realize it also matters what wood/substrate you apply your filler to. Ideally hard woods or metal you want a harder filler and soft woods a softer filler. A soft filler on a hardwood especially if hand sanding will dig out the filler during sanding. A hard filler on soft wood and the wood around the hole will sand away before the filler. At least that’s what I was taught long ago, I would love to see a test that accounted for this.
I've been using M&H for years. IMO it is the best on painted wood white trim. I put it on with a clean putty knife and then strike off any excess. II use my finger in tough spots. As I'm filling, I always have a wet(tightly wrung out) microfiber rag and give each spot a quick wipe. Never or rarely need any sanding or touch up. To each his own.
This video is incredibly helpful! I love the step-by-step instructions and the emphasis on choosing the right filler for a seamless finish. Your tip about sanding and painting for a professional look is a game-changer
i use one light coat of drydex with a finger... then instead of sanding, i use a slightly damp microfiber cloth (the smooth side, not the coarse)... the holes literally disappear. and it's the fastest, cleanest method i've ever seen.
As a professional painter in the northeast, I use the redipatch on window sills, and areas on trim and doors where a layer or two of paint is missing, I don’t use it on holes. It’s like a skim coat.
The Dyna patch pro isn't available in my area. It's only available online. I use the Elmer's and have been happy with it. I also like the fact that it's in a squeezable tube. Makes it easy to apply, and it doesn't dry out like canned patch compounds seem to do.
When doing trim work, i set the nailer at about a 1/32” depth from the surface, give baseboards one coat of finger applied drydex and two on door casings, rarely sanding. The results are always good. If you crawl around on your hands and knees, you might be able to spot a nail here and there from certain angles, but not when you’re standing or sitting. I’m not knocking anyone who wants a perfect job, but i fail to see the point of the extra work. As well, trying to find every white filled nail hole on a white baseboard and then finding them all again to sand is a major pain in the butt.
I started housepainting in 1977 and we always kept a ball of Dap 33 glazing compound in out shirt pocket to fill nail holes. Press it in with your thumb and run your putty knife under your thumb and the hole was filled. If the putty got a little dry you rolled it around in your palms and the oil from your skin and the heat would soften it. If it was too soft and oily some dust made it more workable. I think it's kind of silly that zero evidence of a fastener is what people expect today - most people never get down to look at the basebaord anyway.
As a finishing carpenter, Dynapatch Pro is the best. It sands at the same rate as wood, dries fast, and is quite hard. Gotta keep the lid on it as it will get crumbly fast. I make solid blocks for sanding by spray glue sandpaper on MDF.
Thank you for trying everything out. Always share your videos to my husband. One of his major peeves is nail holes especially because of all the molding we just did in our house.
There were many nail holes to fill after a contractor put up the primed trim. I painted the top coat. Thought of getting a reed from a wind instrument to spread the filler, but the high school band was off for the summer. Rather than use a putty knife or finger, as in past projects, to add the Zar Wood Patch, I grabbed a popsicle stick; cut the rounded end flat, then sanded both sides, about a 1/2 inch or so, to get a flexible, yet stiff tool. It worked well. Two light coats of the filler, then sanded. I tried sticks from cheery, orange and lemon flavored popsicles to see if one worked better than another-undecided. I think a child or grandchild could help with this part of a project.
Hey bro this video you made is excellent perfect really. You got right to the point you gave plenty of information tone of voice was appropriate. I've seen a bunch of your videos I haven't seen all of them but this one here is my favorite so far. Today you got a new subscriber I appreciate your work bro keep up the good work
Been using dry dex for years. I watched this last week and switched to Alex spackle for the crown i imstalled and I'm almost embarrassed I ever used dex. Thank you for this
Interesting results for the Drydex compared to your last test video where you said it did well on the nail holes. I think it depends on the sanding as it’s really easy to oversand. I found a good method for the Drydex with no sanding, but takes a light touch, is: using finger or knife, fill hole and wipe off all sparkle around the hole. It’s ok if the hole is slightly under filled. Second fill, do the same thing. With a light touch I have got perfect results from that. It’s either that, or use the Dynapatch, but it will take a little muscle sanding it.
Yes I was wrong about drydex. I think it’s just too soft to be great for nail holes. It’s probably fine with a lower gloss paint, but with the high gloss it even semi gloss…it kind of sucks.
That's exactly how you do it. Ask any painter. Fill and wipe with your finger. Once it's painted with semi-gloss trim paint nobody will ever notice if it's slightly underfilled.
I like the Durham Puddy because of the reason he counted as negative... the mixing! I hate opening those other products only to discover it has dried out and is now useless. The Durham can be stored for as little or long as you want. Plus, it is very inexpensive.
I really appreciate the tests and the result are clear. That being said, there is always a tradeoff with time. I've found it's just much faster to use drydex then come behind with a artist bush and touchup the holes. I use a little bit more than I have then after drying I come behind with damp paper towel again. I don't do any sanding and then use artist brush to paint just the holes.
Here’s the way I just finished repainting 10 units, converting from natural wood trim to white trim. First; take a surrated knife and neatly cut the face and two sides of of your sponge sanding block. Second; Use your finger and apply a good coat of drydex over the holes. Next; don’t let it dry. Wipe it with your wet sponge that you just made. The sponge used for sanding blocks is super dense and won’t “ dip “ into the hole and leave you a divot. Rinse and re-wet the sponge as needed. The units I was doing had about 600-700 holes each, both old school and brad nails. Had I waited for any product to dry and then sanded it, it would have cost my client a fortune, or me the job. Try it, it works. Cheers
Easy answer is Dap Bright White caulk. I like to paint my trim before installing it and this caulk easily covers small holes from a brad nailer and it perfectly matches Sherwin Williams bright white. No sanding needed. Quick and easy.
I just recently discovered your channel. I appreciate your sense of humour and honest perspective, not to mention the immensely useful tips that you are giving us. Keep up the great work.
I've got ill fitted crown moulding to clean up and a main floor of baseboards to reinstall, this video is going to pay a lot more than the 6 minute investment in watching it. BTW since I wasn't falling asleep in my chair waiting for the end, I enjoyed the bloopers at the end too. Good, solid vid. Thx!
I've filled thousands (30 years in new construction) of nail holes with the green label spackle from Sherwin Williams. It's all I'll use. It works better than all of those.
Very good video. Out of curiosity why not use drywall mud? I know that sounds different but I have always used a quick dry 45 or 90 on my nail holes and I’ve never had an issue with them bleeding through. They finish off completely flush. No shrinkage, it works perfect
Mud expands more like sheetrock, wood expands and contacts more than mineral based surfaces. 2nd reason is adhesive, drywall patch has less adhesive than spackle so it sands more easily and more evenly. So, spackle sticks better to wood and finished surfaces as most trim has at least a semi gloss finish, ie more adhesion needed and is more crack resistant. The negative to basic spackle is harder to sand. The higher end ones (MH DP and the one his paint store recommended) have finer aggregate and different adhesives so they get the better stick without being as much of a bitch to sand as wood filler (wood filler =elmur's glue + sawdust)
Best result I found is two applications of filler and priming the casing with an airless completely before applying paint. The primer seals the filler and makes it invisible. Good video, cheers.
I've been doing a lot of work with stained rather than painted trim and I noticed the best way to fill is (lightly) mixing sawdust from refinishing the piece and mixing that with epoxy. It's not the easiest to work with and takes a lot of skill, though. More so than the problem of learning the right ratio of sawdust to epoxy was the issue of accidentally using too much around the outside of the hole which causes some issues with staining.
Excellent work, thank you. For architrave, in the UK, I use a spackle ( feels like plaster with a pva added) on a putty knife and slightly over fill. I then come back 15 mins later and rub down, very lightly, with a damp cloth to remove the excess, no need for sanding.
That’s an interesting technique Michael. I’ve tried something similar with the Drydex and damp paper towel. It worked so so, I’m sure the spackle would be a better option.
Redcap Dap window glazing 33 one wipe to the nail hole, another wipe to flatten, paint right away, never shrinks or cracks, by far the best ive ever used. Painted for years using drydex and other stuff with a knife, my experience no knife needed just finger and glazing. Try it and let me know
Your videos are so great! I learn something new every time I watch! Can't wait until you get a million subs & some sponsors! You're on your way to greatness!!!
Try joint compound. Used it on all of mine and it worked great. No shrinkage and dries pretty solid. Little more messy and separates in the can but works great.
Thanks for taking the time to show us most of the common options. That helps a lot. HOWEVER. The "CLUE" reference was clever but we shouldn't have to wait for the outtakes for the funny stuff. Your grades. "A" on tech info. "C" on funniness. Overall grade, "B".
Nice thorough test. I was always taught by the carpenter I started with to do base coat with bondo and finish coat with Dyna patch. This is for doing joints in flat stock and mitres. The bondo gives a good resistance to cracking. Which on larger joints the dyna patch tends to do. But for nail holes, you can't beat it.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I believe Bondo is the brand. Whatever their regular body filler is. You can get it at Canadian Tire. Recommend the small container, as the large is quite a lot.
Crawfords spackle in green can is the best product, hands down. Does not shrink and extremely easy to sand. Quick spot prime then paint, and you sre done.
Thanks buddy, that would be great! Hopefully in the next few months I’ll get into a space where I can really test some things out in a home setting! It’s been a bit of struggle making the videos in my own family home.
As a pretty extensive DIYer, when filling nail holes on painted trim I usually paint the trim before installing, then fill Brad nail holes with a homemade compound of cornstarch and whatever paint I used on the trim (usually a semigloss melamine). Has worked very well for small Brad nail holes- I mix it into a pretty dry putty then just work a small amount in with a thumb and rub off excess.
I find glazing putty to be the most effective, yes, normally used by auto body shops. Fill with a putty knife and sand with 150 grit. One coat and done.only issue is it’s red so I have to hit with primer before top coat.
I've always used spackle, but my painters use UGL Glazol elastic glazing compound, no sanding. I was flipping a house and couldn't get the trim right (trying to guess where the floor leveling was going to be) and it looked like I shot it with a shotgun. When they got finished it was perfect. I've since used it, you have to roll it around in your hand to get it pliable and push into to hole with thumb twisting a little as you remove excess. And did i say no sanding.
Joint compound will get hairline cracks after the 2nd door slam. That’s been my experience, I prefer painters or Crawford putty knife smooth. But if that works for you great
A couple of things if two coats the first with Dyna and the second with Shur Also I cover my half used containers with clingwrap. I shove it into the center and spiral my way out to the edge. Tubs last a good long time since oxygen can’t get to the material. Works on cold brew coffee too Not as acidic.
Used DryDex for the last 15 years with zero problems. Yes it shrinks so allow extra above the surface to compensate then sand flat. My biggest issue is MDF. When nailing MDF it puffs up the nail hole like a mini volcano and is a pain to get flat as the surface then roughs up around the nail hole. Hate that stuff. Back in the UK we just used window putty and it was awesome.
I was really excited watching this video. One suggestion is to better show each product and where we can get it. I am in the Boston area and cannot locate either of your top two choices!
The pink drydex works great, works well on walls for holes & large areas that was torn down to the drywall paper, as for wood holes havent tried it yet but i wouldnt see any problem using it to fill in nail holes on wood or mdf boards, key factor is not to use much at all on boards very thin layer just to cover hole sand down lightly hour later with 220 grit that there is no over lapping around holes apply very light primer light sand primer then once painted wouldnt be able yo tell there was ever holes on board.
Soooooo, I was all set to buy the Shur Stik product but since it's made in Canada, I'm not going to pay $13.50 U.S. for shipping on a Ten Dollar product. Then, the Dyna Patch must also be made in Canada since I cannot find it in the States! I guess I need a U.S. based person for the review.
Mh ready patch is a patching compound better used on large gauges or projects needed to shape. It’s just like Bondo but takes longer to sand and no mixing
This was exactly what I needed. Perfect video packed with educational content and a little humor! Loved the clue reference, I was thinking the same thing as you were saying it. Definitely going out and getting that Dynapatch - thank ya, sir!
Oatey makes a fill stick. You can get it at lowes back with the plumbing stuff. It’s a long stick. You knead it until soft and it sets up rock hard. Very good for fixing chips on casing and jamb
If you are using actual spray paint on your trim it will be ultra thin when it dries. Water based paint will be much thicker and will hide the holes better.
@@blaster-zy7xx considering how many nail holes I've filled over the last 34 years as a painter, I'm just going to say that most of them will work just fine if you know how to apply them properly. The spray paint only proves that the guy doesn't know how to fill nail holes properly.
@blaster-zy7xx you put in enough spackle to fill the hole, plus a little more to allow for shrinkage, then you and it down. If you use putty instead of spackle, then you can just level it off and leave it. Not that hard. Like I said, using spray paint was useless and pointless. If it's raw wood, you will prime it after you sand it, then do two coats of finish. You're not going to see imperfections if you do it that way.
@@michaeldiffey3791 That's pretty much the way I have always done it. But I never nail raw wood trim if it will be painted. I always prime and paint all trim first, then cut and install the trim, then caulk edges and fill the nail holes, then one last touch up coat of paint. I have never done two coats of filler on trim, that seem excessive. but I will do it on cabinetry. Thanks for your input.
I installed my crown and base using a high tack construction adhesive called 'Soudal Fix All' just lay a bead around the perimeter and install i had none come loose in the 2 years since, it has a slight amount of flex in it so it can cope with the changing moisture levels in the material
Hello, really enjoy your videos. Where can you get the dyna patch pro? I looked on Amazon but it’s like $80 which is ridiculous. I could not find it at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Thank you
When I do this, I first lay down a little section of painter's tape where I'm going to nail the board and then I drive the nail through the tape. Applying the filler with the tape still in place makes a very clean fill and rarely requires any sanding at all.
As a painter we get nice results with dap glazing/ painters putty..but the trick is to ..what we call knifing the product into the holes. Takes practice to get it right but when you do it's a perfect! Hey..no sanding involved.
Been mixing joint compound with plaster and a little color tint, apply heavy on holes (so u can see it better when dried) usually good with one application then sand with 180 or 220 grit sandpaper.
The best thing that I have found is a one coat, push in with your thumb and sand as you fill the whole. To do that, you take some window glazing putty--- add some of that dry powder putty to it ( this is to harden after some time). Mix it to a ball, it will be kind of flaky almost, then push it in and sand flat----the glazing will not shrink and the powder takes some time to harden but you can paint it as you use it.
"The knife, the sheet sandpaper, *in the conservatory* ~" Hehe! Made me laugh XD Thank you for the fully tested rundown! Heading over to the home improvement center to pick some up as I'm planning a room makeover and there are so many holes!
My professional painter buddy swears by redi+patch. The black can with orange lettering. I've used it, like it ok. But not perfect in my eyes. I'll try your recommendation. You haven't let me down yet!
Thank you for the video. It is perfect except I can not find any store with the dyna patch pro. Same thing with the Shur. I found it on Amazon but the product including shipping is over $40 which to me is not cheap at all. Do you have any suggestions where to go? Online would be the best. Thank you very much.
Compared 6 products. Intros, demonstration, conclusions. Left nothing out. All within 6 mins and 34 seconds. You sir, are legend at not wasting a TH-camr's time with unnecessary fill. More content creators could greatly benefit from following your lead. Thank you for caring about our time.
From my point of view I consume a lot of TH-cam to learn things and or to be entertained. It kind of sucks when non entertaining people ramble on for 7 minutes about nothing😂 I try to avoid that the best I can! I do wish on this video I had some better camera sliders or something to get better shots of the test results… and had a bit more time to have worked out and compiled some of the details better.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter don't sweat it my brother. For those of us that have some experience using these products, what you provided was perfect. Anywhere else, this a 24 min video, and unfortunately we've grown use to it. I watch a lot of your videos, and this is your thing. And what that thing is, of course, is that you are a consumer of info - you know what we've come here for, and you deliver that. Please don't ever 'fix' that. 🧡
I also realized that I'm not subscribed. I 'fixed' that.
I agree right here. Great video you got another sub right here today. I'm excited to go do some patching 😆
I know; even had time for bloopers at the end!
Been painting for 25+ years and the old school method is by far the best. Crawfords painters putty rolled into a ball ,then you roll it in plaster of Paris. it sets quick and easy to sand the next day. Just push it in with your finger some bigger holes may need a 2nd application.
Perfect I knew there was a reason why I hadn’t filled those nail holes for the last 4 weeks. This video was what I was waiting for 😂
I’ll buy it.
Same here🤣🤣
Four weeks I’m going on a year 😂😮
😂😂
@@steviec67 2 years +...but that ends soon! Grateful for this video.
You did a very good job with this video. No fluff, no annoying music, just the facts. 👍🇺🇸
Interesting video. I don't know any professional who fills holes with a finger. RockHard is hugely popular among NYC contractors, and I've been using it for decades. Yes, you have to mix, but I love that I get to control the consistency, depending on the hole's size. But mostly, I love the product's shelf life. It NEVER dries out. It can sit on the shelf for years and still be perfectly usable. I also LOVE how easy it is to sand once dry. It even sands beautifully with 600 grit paper around gentle edges. I also love how quick drying it is. And, you can add color to it for custom color work. I can't recommend RockHard enough.
I’ve been a landlord for over 35 years, and have had great success with Ready Patch. I do one coat, slightly overfilled, and sand with a damp sanding sponge. Slightly wetting the sponge makes the sanding much easier, and gives a smooth finish. I also put a sheet of plastic wrap over the top of the open can, then add the lid; make sure the lid is on tight, and the product will stay soft.
Thank you so much for not making this a 15 minute video. You get right to the point! I love it.
Exactly.
Yeah, man do I appreciate the relevant information without trying to turn it into a documentary.
the outtakes at the ending are fun as well
Amen.
Agree with pops
I fill a lot of nail holes on paint grade trim and my favorite method to date is the drydex but only in a tube. You don’t have to worry about the material drying out or the crappy lid and it goes a long way. The tube allows you to control the amount of material on your finger tip very well and you can easily smash in the amount the fill the hole, then wipe away the excess and I immediately follow up with a light feathered wipe over top of the filled hole to accommodate shrinkage. Even a small room will usually be ready to start sanding by the time I would my way around to my starting point. After that the key is a 1/4 sheet of 3M gold 180 grit. It removes the material in a couple of light swipes, it leaves a very smooth finish without the over sanding divot, and it doesn’t gum up at all. One 1/4 of a sheet goes a very long way. With 18 gauge nail holes or smaller I typically am good to go in one pass, a 15 gauge hole will still often require 2 coats.
I'm pretty happy with drydex on the finger. One hard swipe to press it in and immediately another light dab over top for shrinkage.
@@95thousandroses the first time I used dry dex I was taught to carry a damp (just not soaking wet) rag and wipe the repair just before it dries or as the last of the pink is gone. Doesn't get any smoother but I don't know why I don't see more people doing this.
@bradoshaholmes2867 I'll have to try that. Seems like the rag would pull a little filler out of the hole though making it ever so slightly concave.
Kudos to anyone who actually applies two coats of anything as a finish nail filler and sands between coats. With all the things I have to do in my life, it gets one coat, sanded and painted. The difference in that second coat and second sanding is one of those things that I accept and move on with my life.
Love your videos ! Your fun to watch.
As a trim carpenter….I find the best way is to minimize your holes by using a stud finder and nailing in the profile so you don’t see them. Then use a bit of Color matched caulk to fill the line where the nail is. I pre spray all my base before install.
Flat stock trim I tend to pre spray and glue on with an instant bonding system so I have no nails to deal with at all.
I use a 21 gauge Brad nailer for standard trim and an 18 gauge for premium trim 5/8” and up. 1-9/16” brads always to stay away from waterlines etc
Thanks buddy! Sounds like you’re running a tight ship with your trim work- I like it!
@nailit1860 - planning to install flat stock trim in the garage - what brand bonding/glue you like to use for that? Also I was taught the same technique for nailing and pre-spraying - what brand of color-matched caulk you use and how you get it? I never heard of that aside from the typical DAP stuff in the store like White, Brown, Almond, etc.
I do house prepping and I love ready patch. so long as you keep it wet and not dried out, it's a winner, shapeable like a smooth drywall mud, can do small or large repairs on painted wood trim or door frames. One coat, dries quickly.
I don't often do home improvements, but when I do, I'm coming to this channel. Excellent, clear presentation.
Currently in a hardware store and gotta say, I love this video. Been working on my trim using your videos and has made my life much easier. Thank you!
Best wishes on your future projects! I'm really looking forward to making some more detailed vids in 2023.
I'm a contractor and use mostly Dry-Dex. I use a single application with my finger leaving it overfilled and I don't sand it. I smooth it with a damp cleaning sponge.
Thanks! I understand that the Durham's Water Putty loses points for needing to be mixed, BUT, I do LOVE that it doesn't have me reaching for the filler and discover it has dried out and gone bad! Yes, if availabIe I grab other things first, but sooooo often the spackle/wood filler/putty is no longer good, and the water putty sits there for decades, always ready when I need it!
@@keithmarlowe5569 You'll like having it around, and it is really fairly impressive stuff.
Totally agree with it's readiness longevity!
I love that stuff!
That's why I always have some. Mixed one is dry and you need it now. At least you can use that.
Love that you test different products out and show us the unbiased results. Thank you so much!
Thanks Sandy- this has always been a life long passion to test things out.
Perhaps the best, most comprehensive and helpful test/review ever published on TH-cam. I was having trouble getting flawless filled nail holes and this fixed it for me. Thanks so much!!!
Nice video thanks for info, I find all your videos very helpful. I am a long time painter and please realize it also matters what wood/substrate you apply your filler to. Ideally hard woods or metal you want a harder filler and soft woods a softer filler. A soft filler on a hardwood especially if hand sanding will dig out the filler during sanding.
A hard filler on soft wood and the wood around the hole will sand away before the filler.
At least that’s what I was taught long ago, I would love to see a test that accounted for this.
Excellent idea for a video Mario, thanks for checking this one out!
I've been using M&H for years. IMO it is the best on painted wood white trim. I put it on with a clean putty knife and then strike off any excess. II use my finger in tough spots. As I'm filling, I always have a wet(tightly wrung out) microfiber rag and give each spot a quick wipe. Never or rarely need any sanding or touch up.
To each his own.
This video is incredibly helpful! I love the step-by-step instructions and the emphasis on choosing the right filler for a seamless finish. Your tip about sanding and painting for a professional look is a game-changer
i use one light coat of drydex with a finger... then instead of sanding, i use a slightly damp microfiber cloth (the smooth side, not the coarse)... the holes literally disappear. and it's the fastest, cleanest method i've ever seen.
Cleaning tile grout with microfibers is a game changer. I haven't used a sponge since.
Microfiber to finish clean drywall dust after vacuuming changes the game as well
As a professional painter in the northeast, I use the redipatch on window sills, and areas on trim and doors where a layer or two of paint is missing, I don’t use it on holes. It’s like a skim coat.
The Dyna patch pro isn't available in my area. It's only available online. I use the Elmer's and have been happy with it. I also like the fact that it's in a squeezable tube. Makes it easy to apply, and it doesn't dry out like canned patch compounds seem to do.
When doing trim work, i set the nailer at about a 1/32” depth from the surface, give baseboards one coat of finger applied drydex and two on door casings, rarely sanding. The results are always good. If you crawl around on your hands and knees, you might be able to spot a nail here and there from certain angles, but not when you’re standing or sitting. I’m not knocking anyone who wants a perfect job, but i fail to see the point of the extra work. As well, trying to find every white filled nail hole on a white baseboard and then finding them all again to sand is a major pain in the butt.
bingo
Crawfords painters putty is a great product that didn’t get tested here. Been using it for decades.
I started housepainting in 1977 and we always kept a ball of Dap 33 glazing compound in out shirt pocket to fill nail holes. Press it in with your thumb and run your putty knife under your thumb and the hole was filled. If the putty got a little dry you rolled it around in your palms and the oil from your skin and the heat would soften it. If it was too soft and oily some dust made it more workable. I think it's kind of silly that zero evidence of a fastener is what people expect today - most people never get down to look at the basebaord anyway.
As a finishing carpenter, Dynapatch Pro is the best. It sands at the same rate as wood, dries fast, and is quite hard. Gotta keep the lid on it as it will get crumbly fast. I make solid blocks for sanding by spray glue sandpaper on MDF.
Thank you for trying everything out. Always share your videos to my husband. One of his major peeves is nail holes especially because of all the molding we just did in our house.
Thank you kindly!
There were many nail holes to fill after a contractor put up the primed trim. I painted the top coat. Thought of getting a reed from a wind instrument to spread the filler, but the high school band was off for the summer. Rather than use a putty knife or finger, as in past projects, to add the Zar Wood Patch, I grabbed a popsicle stick; cut the rounded end flat, then sanded both sides, about a 1/2 inch or so, to get a flexible, yet stiff tool. It worked well. Two light coats of the filler, then sanded. I tried sticks from cheery, orange and lemon flavored popsicles to see if one worked better than another-undecided. I think a child or grandchild could help with this part of a project.
Hey bro this video you made is excellent perfect really. You got right to the point you gave plenty of information tone of voice was appropriate. I've seen a bunch of your videos I haven't seen all of them but this one here is my favorite so far. Today you got a new subscriber I appreciate your work bro keep up the good work
I was told by a professional finish carpenter to use glazing compound. I have used it and it works well.
Been using dry dex for years. I watched this last week and switched to Alex spackle for the crown i imstalled and I'm almost embarrassed I ever used dex. Thank you for this
Interesting results for the Drydex compared to your last test video where you said it did well on the nail holes. I think it depends on the sanding as it’s really easy to oversand. I found a good method for the Drydex with no sanding, but takes a light touch, is: using finger or knife, fill hole and wipe off all sparkle around the hole. It’s ok if the hole is slightly under filled. Second fill, do the same thing. With a light touch I have got perfect results from that. It’s either that, or use the Dynapatch, but it will take a little muscle sanding it.
Yes I was wrong about drydex. I think it’s just too soft to be great for nail holes. It’s probably fine with a lower gloss paint, but with the high gloss it even semi gloss…it kind of sucks.
That's exactly how you do it. Ask any painter. Fill and wipe with your finger. Once it's painted with semi-gloss trim paint nobody will ever notice if it's slightly underfilled.
I like the Durham Puddy because of the reason he counted as negative... the mixing! I hate opening those other products only to discover it has dried out and is now useless. The Durham can be stored for as little or long as you want. Plus, it is very inexpensive.
I really appreciate the tests and the result are clear. That being said, there is always a tradeoff with time. I've found it's just much faster to use drydex then come behind with a artist bush and touchup the holes. I use a little bit more than I have then after drying I come behind with damp paper towel again. I don't do any sanding and then use artist brush to paint just the holes.
Here’s the way
I just finished repainting 10 units, converting from natural wood trim to white trim.
First; take a surrated knife and neatly cut the face and two sides of of your sponge sanding block.
Second; Use your finger and apply a good coat of drydex over the holes.
Next; don’t let it dry. Wipe it with your wet sponge that you just made.
The sponge used for sanding blocks is super dense and won’t “ dip “ into the hole and leave you a divot. Rinse and re-wet the sponge as needed.
The units I was doing had about 600-700 holes each, both old school and brad nails.
Had I waited for any product to dry and then sanded it, it would have cost my client a fortune, or me the job.
Try it, it works.
Cheers
Easy answer is Dap Bright White caulk. I like to paint my trim before installing it and this caulk easily covers small holes from a brad nailer and it perfectly matches Sherwin Williams bright white. No sanding needed. Quick and easy.
Great to hear you’ve got a great method working for you🍻
thants pretty cool
I just recently discovered your channel. I appreciate your sense of humour and honest perspective, not to mention the immensely useful tips that you are giving us. Keep up the great work.
thank you!
He is a funny guy and really nice. I live next door and the only thing weird is that he’s named all his hammers.
I've got ill fitted crown moulding to clean up and a main floor of baseboards to reinstall, this video is going to pay a lot more than the 6 minute investment in watching it. BTW since I wasn't falling asleep in my chair waiting for the end, I enjoyed the bloopers at the end too. Good, solid vid. Thx!
I've filled thousands (30 years in new construction) of nail holes with the green label spackle from Sherwin Williams. It's all I'll use. It works better than all of those.
I’ll have to check it out
Green label or Bondo thin is awesome. 100% agree
Because of your comment, I went down to Sherwin and bought some. It worked great! Thank you for taking the time to comment!
I've been using the Elmer's wood filler for years and has always given me great results and never had any issues with paint coverage
Excellent video! Very, very helpful, and I love your cute outtakes at the end. 😊 It was great! Thank you so much! 👍
Very good video. Out of curiosity why not use drywall mud? I know that sounds different but I have always used a quick dry 45 or 90 on my nail holes and I’ve never had an issue with them bleeding through. They finish off completely flush. No shrinkage, it works perfect
Mud expands more like sheetrock, wood expands and contacts more than mineral based surfaces.
2nd reason is adhesive, drywall patch has less adhesive than spackle so it sands more easily and more evenly. So, spackle sticks better to wood and finished surfaces as most trim has at least a semi gloss finish, ie more adhesion needed and is more crack resistant.
The negative to basic spackle is harder to sand. The higher end ones (MH DP and the one his paint store recommended) have finer aggregate and different adhesives so they get the better stick without being as much of a bitch to sand as wood filler (wood filler =elmur's glue + sawdust)
Best result I found is two applications of filler and priming the casing with an airless completely before applying paint. The primer seals the filler and makes it invisible. Good video, cheers.
Anybody else hits the like as soon as the video plays?.......cause you know you wont be disappointed in this guy.
High praise!🍻cheers
.... I absolutely love MH Ready patch. I don't know what to say, I've used almost all of those and like Ready Patch the best of those.
I've been doing a lot of work with stained rather than painted trim and I noticed the best way to fill is (lightly) mixing sawdust from refinishing the piece and mixing that with epoxy. It's not the easiest to work with and takes a lot of skill, though. More so than the problem of learning the right ratio of sawdust to epoxy was the issue of accidentally using too much around the outside of the hole which causes some issues with staining.
Excellent work, thank you. For architrave, in the UK, I use a spackle ( feels like plaster with a pva added) on a putty knife and slightly over fill. I then come back 15 mins later and rub down, very lightly, with a damp cloth to remove the excess, no need for sanding.
That’s an interesting technique Michael. I’ve tried something similar with the Drydex and damp paper towel. It worked so so, I’m sure the spackle would be a better option.
Dyna patch not available in the US? Suggestions? Thanks.
Thanks for delivering this comparison in a quick and to the point video. Lots of great information. Love your channel.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching
I love ready patch. Use it all the time on exterior projects.
It appears nobody sells the Dyna patch pro
Nice! Where are you picking up your Dyna Patch Pro? Local paint shop?
Hmmm it looks like Dynapatch pro is hard to find down South. In Canada you can get it at Home Depot and a lot of paint stores.
Redcap Dap window glazing 33 one wipe to the nail hole, another wipe to flatten, paint right away, never shrinks or cracks, by far the best ive ever used. Painted for years using drydex and other stuff with a knife, my experience no knife needed just finger and glazing. Try it and let me know
I concur, just finished a 6 week remodel and I’ve always used the pink lid and I was unhappy with how it turned out. I’ll give the dyna a whirl. Thx
Best wishes
You really are the best at this! Concise, clear, efficient.
Your videos are so great! I learn something new every time I watch! Can't wait until you get a million subs & some sponsors! You're on your way to greatness!!!
Well this comment is a real bonus to the day! Thank you🍻🙏🏼
Great video but.... I cant find Dyna Patch or Shur Spackle at either Amazon or Home Depot. What's up with that?
Try joint compound. Used it on all of mine and it worked great. No shrinkage and dries pretty solid. Little more messy and separates in the can but works great.
Thanks for taking the time to show us most of the common options. That helps a lot. HOWEVER. The "CLUE" reference was clever but we shouldn't have to wait for the outtakes for the funny stuff. Your grades. "A" on tech info. "C" on funniness. Overall grade, "B".
😂I hear you Joe! I haven’t had any energy for funny stuff lately, the summertime is pretty hectic with no school for my son.
Nah, A-,and I'm a tough grader.
Nice thorough test.
I was always taught by the carpenter I started with to do base coat with bondo and finish coat with Dyna patch. This is for doing joints in flat stock and mitres. The bondo gives a good resistance to cracking. Which on larger joints the dyna patch tends to do. But for nail holes, you can't beat it.
Good advice Kyle! What type of bondo do you recommend?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I believe Bondo is the brand. Whatever their regular body filler is. You can get it at Canadian Tire. Recommend the small container, as the large is quite a lot.
Found your channel tonight and just binge watched liked 10 videos. Love the info and the humor.
Crawfords spackle in green can is the best product, hands down. Does not shrink and extremely easy to sand. Quick spot prime then paint, and you sre done.
Keep this up and you’ll become the “Project farm” of trim carpentry. Lol
Good work.
Thanks buddy, that would be great! Hopefully in the next few months I’ll get into a space where I can really test some things out in a home setting! It’s been a bit of struggle making the videos in my own family home.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter looking forward to it.
At least you got paid to make a cpl nice little Reno’s to your own place.
And we'll name him Todd II ; )
As a pretty extensive DIYer, when filling nail holes on painted trim I usually paint the trim before installing, then fill Brad nail holes with a homemade compound of cornstarch and whatever paint I used on the trim (usually a semigloss melamine). Has worked very well for small Brad nail holes- I mix it into a pretty dry putty then just work a small amount in with a thumb and rub off excess.
Wow, you deserve an award for that contribution to science. Bravo.
I could not order the top two dry patch Shur stick or Dyno Patch Pro. The only option destination options were Canada
I find glazing putty to be the most effective, yes, normally used by auto body shops. Fill with a putty knife and sand with 150 grit. One coat and done.only issue is it’s red so I have to hit with primer before top coat.
NitroStan comes in a gray color
I've always used spackle, but my painters use UGL Glazol elastic glazing compound, no sanding. I was flipping a house and couldn't get the trim right (trying to guess where the floor leveling was going to be) and it looked like I shot it with a shotgun. When they got finished it was perfect. I've since used it, you have to roll it around in your hand to get it pliable and push into to hole with thumb twisting a little as you remove excess. And did i say no sanding.
I've been doing trim work for a long time and the best thing that works on nail holes is "joint compound" it has never failed me after 30 years
It shinks tho. Gonna take 2 coats. Time us money
Joint compound will get hairline cracks after the 2nd door slam. That’s been my experience, I prefer painters or Crawford putty knife smooth. But if that works for you great
Sir, you just nailed it. Definitely the best comparison out there!
A couple of things if two coats the first with Dyna and the second with Shur
Also I cover my half used containers with clingwrap.
I shove it into the center and spiral my way out to the edge. Tubs last a good long time since oxygen can’t get to the material.
Works on cold brew coffee too
Not as acidic.
Used DryDex for the last 15 years with zero problems. Yes it shrinks so allow extra above the surface to compensate then sand flat. My biggest issue is MDF. When nailing MDF it puffs up the nail hole like a mini volcano and is a pain to get flat as the surface then roughs up around the nail hole. Hate that stuff. Back in the UK we just used window putty and it was awesome.
I love it that you tried many fillers. I wish you had demo'ed more trim! Mine is glossy plastic (pvc?)..
Great video. Ty. Do you have to prime over the Dynamic Pro?
I was really excited watching this video. One suggestion is to better show each product and where we can get it. I am in the Boston area and cannot locate either of your top two choices!
The pink drydex works great, works well on walls for holes & large areas that was torn down to the drywall paper, as for wood holes havent tried it yet but i wouldnt see any problem using it to fill in nail holes on wood or mdf boards, key factor is not to use much at all on boards very thin layer just to cover hole sand down lightly hour later with 220 grit that there is no over lapping around holes apply very light primer light sand primer then once painted wouldnt be able yo tell there was ever holes on board.
Soooooo, I was all set to buy the Shur Stik product but since it's made in Canada, I'm not going to pay $13.50 U.S. for shipping on a Ten Dollar product. Then, the Dyna Patch must also be made in Canada since I cannot find it in the States! I guess I need a U.S. based person for the review.
Mh ready patch is a patching compound better used on large gauges or projects needed to shape. It’s just like Bondo but takes longer to sand and no mixing
My go to is 3M small hole patch & primer. Doesn’t shrink, sands okay, dries incredibly fast, and cheaper than the top 2 on the list.
This was exactly what I needed. Perfect video packed with educational content and a little humor! Loved the clue reference, I was thinking the same thing as you were saying it. Definitely going out and getting that Dynapatch - thank ya, sir!
Thanks for the video. which one of these products would do well with a natural wood baseboards that won't get painted by stained?
For natural wood I would look for a wood filler in a tub that is a bit thicker. Try and find one that is a similar colour. I would test it out!
Oatey makes a fill stick. You can get it at lowes back with the plumbing stuff. It’s a long stick. You knead it until soft and it sets up rock hard. Very good for fixing chips on casing and jamb
If you are using actual spray paint on your trim it will be ultra thin when it dries. Water based paint will be much thicker and will hide the holes better.
I suspect he was only using the pray paint to show off the imperfections of each process.
@@blaster-zy7xx considering how many nail holes I've filled over the last 34 years as a painter, I'm just going to say that most of them will work just fine if you know how to apply them properly. The spray paint only proves that the guy doesn't know how to fill nail holes properly.
@@michaeldiffey3791 OK, how do you fill nail holes properly?
@blaster-zy7xx you put in enough spackle to fill the hole, plus a little more to allow for shrinkage, then you and it down.
If you use putty instead of spackle, then you can just level it off and leave it.
Not that hard. Like I said, using spray paint was useless and pointless.
If it's raw wood, you will prime it after you sand it, then do two coats of finish. You're not going to see imperfections if you do it that way.
@@michaeldiffey3791 That's pretty much the way I have always done it. But I never nail raw wood trim if it will be painted. I always prime and paint all trim first, then cut and install the trim, then caulk edges and fill the nail holes, then one last touch up coat of paint. I have never done two coats of filler on trim, that seem excessive. but I will do it on cabinetry. Thanks for your input.
great video, objective testing, quick and to the point. THANK YOU
I installed my crown and base using a high tack construction adhesive called 'Soudal Fix All' just lay a bead around the perimeter and install i had none come loose in the 2 years since, it has a slight amount of flex in it so it can cope with the changing moisture levels in the material
Hello, really enjoy your videos. Where can you get the dyna patch pro? I looked on Amazon but it’s like $80 which is ridiculous. I could not find it at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Thank you
Judging by the comments it seems like it’s hard to find in the US. In Canada you can get it at Home Depot.
When I do this, I first lay down a little section of painter's tape where I'm going to nail the board and then I drive the nail through the tape. Applying the filler with the tape still in place makes a very clean fill and rarely requires any sanding at all.
Genius!
Sounds efficient. Get real.
Dyna Patch does not seem to be available in the US. Or, perhaps it is sold under a different name.
Great information. I used to use dry den all the time. Switching to Elmers. Thanks.
As a painter we get nice results with dap glazing/ painters putty..but the trick is to ..what we call knifing the product into the holes. Takes practice to get it right but when you do it's a perfect! Hey..no sanding involved.
Is there anything in the US i can buy thats compo to dyna patch pro or shur stick?
Been mixing joint compound with plaster and a little color tint, apply heavy on holes (so u can see it better when dried) usually good with one application then sand with 180 or 220 grit sandpaper.
Amazing content. I love how you test all the combinations instead of "from my 30 year experience"
The best thing that I have found is a one coat, push in with your thumb and sand as you fill the whole. To do that, you take some window glazing putty--- add some of that dry powder putty to it ( this is to harden after some time). Mix it to a ball, it will be kind of flaky almost, then push it in and sand flat----the glazing will not shrink and the powder takes some time to harden but you can paint it as you use it.
Thanks much for this video. But aren't your top two choices only available in Canada?
"The knife, the sheet sandpaper, *in the conservatory* ~" Hehe! Made me laugh XD Thank you for the fully tested rundown! Heading over to the home improvement center to pick some up as I'm planning a room makeover and there are so many holes!
My professional painter buddy swears by redi+patch. The black can with orange lettering. I've used it, like it ok. But not perfect in my eyes. I'll try your recommendation. You haven't let me down yet!
Got it from my pro painter as well. It's good for interior and exterior and large holes and gashes.
I use the standard USG joint compound for drywall (2 coats + correction). Get good result
Thank you for the video. It is perfect except I can not find any store with the dyna patch pro. Same thing with the Shur. I found it on Amazon but the product including shipping is over $40 which to me is not cheap at all. Do you have any suggestions where to go? Online would be the best. Thank you very much.
Thanks for an excellent review. I have a lot of nail holes still left to fill. I appreciate the thoroughness and the quick review.