I guess but if u win that u better work ur ass off to buy a decent motheboard an PSU. Or just sell them n get some money .n make a build u can actually take advantage off
@@NeVErseeNMeLikEDis sell 3950X for 700$, sell RTX 2080 ti for 1000$ build a 3700X + 2080 Super + B450 Tomahawk + RM650X + 16GB 3600/CL16 + 1TB SSD + 1440p/144hz monitor with that money
I have several hundred hours in F1 2019. It crashes like that all the time. A few times in the middle of my league race. Trust me the PSU was not at fault
i just made a account for eve online online and the game runs bad with full screen mode and fast with windowed mode and its the only game i know that does that
The crash is just F1 2019 being F1 2019... Having played this game a lot it does just randomly crash now and then with no error message. Ask anyone who league races on this game, you’ll get the same response.
I appreciate videos like this because it's really shows where most people are at with their builds. I just ordered the parts for a Ryzen 5 3600X and a 5600XT build, and I went with a Corsair RM650X which I know is more than enough. Not overclocking. Funny how some people would try to tell me I need a 1000W PSU. I know they're out there and you've shown this. Respect!
Yeah but if you wanna upgrade future GPUs are gonna use more power. Especially if you wanna do Nvidia cards in the future the 4080 and 4090 use at least 500-666W at normal use. Not saying you want those GPUs but since the PSU is gonna last longer than a lot of your PC Parts you can save money over time paying more for a high wattage PSU. I was using my 750W PSU for 7 years before upgrading my monitor and GPU. I noticed that I was getting random restarts and crashes and just changed to my 1000W PSU and it’s a lot better than I thought. I will soon be grabbing a 1200W PSU for a separate server build
any electronic device isn't design to blow up once you overload them. That's why there is tolerance value, ranging from 1% to 20% depending on what component it is. For example, your laptop has power supply rated at usually around 19v. 20v will never blow anything, in fact it will draw a little bit less current because you're supplying more voltage ( power = voltage x current). But there's always limit of how much voltage and current a component will be able to take. (voltage is pushed, current is drawn) so i'm not surprised if you could drive that psu to years drawing 500 watt everyday. what you should consider is checking the efficiency of the power supply and also the cut off power of a psu. Some psu will cut off the power once you pass 5-10% + 100% of the rated power. Some just goes to 20% with no problem
2:11 I'll correct Brian a PSU rating is it's maximum continuous supply to the PC. My PSU is rated 450watts but the manual says it can handle peaks of 500 for a few seconds.
I wish that were always true, but it isnt. Quality PSUs are rated continuous, and can generally far exceed their rating, cheap PSUs are often just rated max
It's true they're usually rated to work up to 110% DC output wattage before OPP shut down. During all this, it would draw a lot more than 450W from the wall due to the way efficiency is calculated (450W DCout @ 90% Eff = 500W at the wall). But that's also only its maximum rated output within a very narrow temperature range. Once they exceed say 40°C (for my PSU at least) operating temperature, output capability starts to drop, making 500W peak a risky thing yet again. There's a lot of factors to consider if you're approaching the limits of your unit.
@@lejac4916 There's the reason I forgot for why you need a fair bit of headroom. You need to be certain for the entire range of temps and humidity it will be exposed to.
My HX1200i passed over 1350w on 12v output for over 24 hour test (fans barely had to spin at 400-600 rpm, silent, not even warm while running out of spec like this and running 90% efficient. Wall power was obviously higher at 1550w) My SuperNova 1300 can push a bit higher (never OCP yet even on estimated 1.5kw output), but it’s loud even at idle and blows realistically hot (not like some, but it’s pushing some heat at full and above rated spec loads). The good ones exceed specs, the cheap ones like Rosewill blow up your SSD and won’t replace it (1000w Hive blew up at 830w wall power, so like 700w output max ever). I’ve also popped OCP on their Glacier 1000 at 630w (so like 500w output), and the cables are thin and crappy aluminum (you can tell which cable is to what set by picking it up, same gauge but apparently the copper weighs twice as much on premium units). I’ve also blown another but it was near spec for a couple years and failed softly just dieing out gradually and safe (no $250 SSD fried on it, so no complaints). Also note the SuperNova 1300 (fully modular and exceeds spec) was like $25 more than the crappy Rosewill Hive (semi-modular, epic fail and parts blown below 70% spec). So I wouldn’t call the Rosewill cheap, they are right next to the high end super high power models, you don’t get what you pay for on that Rosewill brand!
@@LucasFerreira-gx9yh Efficiency comes first, wattage second. Efficiency signals that it's going to consistently deliver its true rating which means you don't have to overbuy...and because it's efficient it makes less heat which is good for longevity and means that your build can use a smaller cooling solution! My experience is that the OEM power supplies are built to just barely do the job and will give out in a few months if loaded continuously, even if the system is in factory configuration; I would always buy at least an 80+ rating PSU if you intend for the system to last. Every power supply does age, but that's just the nature of capacitors. Plan to replace it when you change motherboards and you should be fine.
@@BL-hj7hi yeah bitch now check how much performance you're losing because of your components undervolting themselves... probably can be seen on cinebench
I've been saying it for years. But good luck trying to convince people with cinder blocks for heads they don't need a 1000w PSU if they are not running multiple GPUs, a high end server or doing some sort of data mining.
1000w? No, but I'd say 850 watt is probably the sweet spot for a high-end single-GPU system that might see some overclocking. There are two areas you need to look at when sizing a GPU. First is your expected worst-case power draw (with some headroom to make sure you're not redlining it, which this video never did as the GPU and CPU were never stressed simultaneously), but the second is the noise and efficiency curves of a PSU. Power supplies are rarely at their most efficient when they're pushed to their limits, and a 600 watt load on an 850 watt power supply will probably be quite a lot quieter than a 600 watt load on a 650 watt power supply. Good power supply vendors will publish both the efficiency and noise curves for their power supplies, letting you see how loud your expected loud will be.
I know I didn't need a high wattage power supply, but I got a good deal on a SeaSonic X1250, and I was concerned ab noise and it had a passive mode. I got it for $140, and expect it to last a long long time, and generally don't hear the fan turn on.
@@maoteddy5879 Some people value silence. If you compare a 450W and 1250W PSU that both have passive modes (meaning the fan doesn't spin up until a certain power draw), I think you'll find the 1250W unit can push far more power before the fan is required.
Yeah once I turned on my PC and a cloud of black smoke came out of my trusty old Thermaltake generic PSU that came with the 40 dollar case. Still ran fine for months afterwards
I used to have a 550 B3 from EVGA in my main PC with an R5-2600 and a GTX 970(at the time, it has a Vega 56 now) I had it since 2017 and one day it turned off while I was playing a game, then it wouldn’t turn back on. It eventually turned back on and made a loud pop and started spewing smoke out the back. Thankfully nothing was damaged.
Always good to watch a video on PSU's. Buying the best PSU should never be overlooked, its practically the only part that doesn't need upgrading within 10 or more years. It's one of the reasons we are seeing manufactures offer 5, 7, and even 10 years' warranty.
i have the masterwatt , the one step high range model, the sleeving sucks, the glue that stick the heat shrink to the 24 pin came out easily, i also had another unit that had the 24 pin clip broken while new in box
@@thatsoomohit it could be just my bad unit,but i'm talking about 3 out of 4 unit here,i do build for people and i ordered 2 unit,both had workmanship defect,i exchange for another 2,one still had it and one ok,i even do unboxing video for fear that dealer might blame user error for it
Often there's no price increase between good brand 450W PSU similar 600W PSU. I selected parts for my friend's PC and it was taking like 300W so 350W recommended but 600W one was only $5 more so I got it for him.
But cons the more expensive 450w psu are fully or semi-modular, also bronze, golden, platinum ratings has bit diffrence at energy-wasting bronze is 85%~, gold 90%~, platinum 93%~. So expensive 450w might be gold, fully modular, premium materials. Same price 600w might was basic or bronze non-modular. Basic is 80%~
Only loading a PSU up to about 50% of it's rated power does have the benefit of running the system at it's highest power efficiency. On average a power supply's efficiency curve peaks at around 50% keeping the temps low, and thus the fan off.
This is true on older/cheaper electrical designs, but modern tech has flattened the efficiency curve considerably. Whether the fan is running or not depends more on the specific design of the unit rather than just its efficiency curve, e.g. if the designer has used smaller/cheaper heat dissipating components that require more air flow.
@@BruceLeedar Look at any power supply, even the highest end one's efficiency curves and you will see for yourself that this is still the case, it's physics. They for sure have wider efficiency bands than earlier designs though.
@@BruceLeedar There are efficiency curves on the PSU manufacturers website (if its a reputable brand like Seasonic), too bad he didn't mention the reason it is actually recommended to get about a 40% bigger PSU rating for your system unless you dont really care about power consumption and your components
I did the test myself with 450W cooler master power supply and used it with 2600 and 2060 the end result The power supply died a year after. The thing with power supply is they degrade over time and usage that means at start they will have good efficiency and as they become close to the end of warranty or after that they will degrade to 50-60% of there peak performance.
@Ghost-squad I had cooler master 450w power supply which I was using for 2 years I bought 2060 and used it with the same power supply and it died after the end of 3 year 1 day. Cooler master gives 3 years of warranty. Hence I posted my first comment
Reminds me of the time when I installed a 500watts PSU to my client's unit with a gt1030 and he said he replaced it with a better PSU which is a 700watts generic one. I like fhe way he said it was better because it was 700 watts compared to the 500 true rated I installed. 😂 I explain all the power thing but left things to his hands. He'll eventually bring it back to me when he get problem with it.
@@strohhuttv8848 already told him that. Even a 300watts on a OEM can run that card. You don't argue with customers though. I keep all record and contracts because there will always be that one customer that will either try to rip you off or don't listen but don't want to pay either because they made their research but have you repair it.
I'm glad you said that you don't recommand to do that. Once I had a d950 and hd4850 everything oc. And the no name supply just went into fire while playing far cry 2 at max. Since then, I buy overkill power supply to have room for oc and security. And also getting a more powerful power supply and not using the power make it last longer.
Something to keep in mind for anyone reading this, power supplies are most efficient when at about 50% of its maximum output. So for a PC sucking up 400W you'd want a PSU around 850W for maximum efficiency, but it will run just fine on something below that.
@DARKDAYZGAMESDDG It won't change the performance and it's not really something that matters since it's not pulling that much power anyway, but a higher efficiency would mean less power wasted and less heat output from the power supply. Not really something that matters at the low end where power draw is generally pretty low (excluding old parts that are power hungry but low end for today's standards), but something that does matter at the high end where power draw is much higher and where a few percentage will mean a bigger number!
I'm glad I found this video. Was worried to if my new GPU would run or not. Used the calculator. And I dont even hit 400w with my system on a full gaming load. So useful
I find a great many people buy less than they need in quality. A "450" watt peak power PSU probably puts out 350 or less maximum watts continuous power. Almost everyone thinks the cheapest power supply they can find is good. Thank you for another informative video.
Awesome stuff Brian, I see this all too often where people go out and either by a junk PSU that claims ridiculous ratings but is in essence a 250w - 300w junker PSU or they massively over spend on a super high power PSU then barely utilize it. Peak efficiency on any decent (80+ Bronze or better) PSU is at roughly 50% utilization, that is where the PSU is happiest and runs cool so throwing a 1000w PSU at a system that peaks at even 400w means you will be running well under peak efficiency (and yes, efficiency drops both under and over 50%), worse still, you will not be running at peak draw very often, so efficiency will drop even more the lower your draw gets. Conversely, the higher your utilization (on an inadequate PSU) the more heat is created and the lower efficiency drops. Higher heat means lower efficiency, higher ripple and poor stability. Realistically for power efficiency and reliability you want a PSU that peaks at about 75 - 80% utilization during maximum draw and runs close to 50% when gaming, video editing etc. The more you can keep your system in the sweet spot the longer all your components will last, power delivery in the efficiency sweet spot also tends to have less ripple and be more stable.
Modern PSUs don't have a curve like that. Corsair has moved towards near peak efficiency regardless of load for all but the lowest end of their lineup. JohnnyGuru references itnis his PC world psu myths video.
@@eila2088 The efficiency curve of (current) higher tier PSUs is almost flat these days but running at ~50% load most of the time still prolongs their lifespan and is still better for the system long term. I generalized to include even budget oriented (80+ rated) PSUs and it won't hurt higher tier PSUs either. It's sound advice no matter how much you are spending on your PSU. The only argument against it would be if you are planning to upgrade (your system not the PSU) down the line in which case tailor your purchase to that power envelope not your current one. Common sense really.
@@Xaltar_ I believe you reminding my own experiences. And another Aspekt ist that Many people Plan their expensive Upgrade arround a 500 Watt psu which they bought bevore. There can be used even 2 psu's in one system. I have Made very good experiences with Overlocking using a psu for mobo& CPu&RAM&storage and one for the Graphik Card!! And they can get weaker psu's can get weaker that ist true!!!!!
The thing to take into account with a PSU in the long run is it's efficency, PSU's have the best efficency at half load, also a psu is going to last longer at half load than at full load. (My first gaming computer I built had a psu that didn't even last 3 years because it was a evga 450W bronze on a computer that used 350W) And when you take into account an average power consumption of 350 watts for a gaming rig the differience in power use over a 5 year span is about $30 from a bronze to a gold PSU, so if you can get a gold psu for up to $30 more than that bronze psu it will make up for it. So for that rig the best psu to pair it with would probably be a gold 750W psu which you can get for about $110 rather than a bronze at about $95 as it will more than make up the cost differience in reduced power consumption. With the wall power draw being 430W at 80% efficiency that means the pc is actually using about 344W at full load, which means with a 90% efficient power supply it will only use 382W or roughly half of a 750W PSU en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus
lmao. My Dirt game crashes on PC almost like on the 3rd or 4th day ( no BSOD). Also suprisingly it also crashes ( F1 2017) on my ps4 quite often though its downloaded on an HDD and not read from the Bluray disk
Nothing exceeds like excess... I usually try to have 750 to 850 in my boxes for the extra headroom. I actually HAD to buy a 850 back when I was running a 4870x2 card. It pulled so much current when it booted into a 3d game the psu would shut down do to overcurrent on one of the 4 gpu dedicated rails. Each rail on my 750 Nspire was rated 18 amps max and video card buried it. I got a 850 that had a single rail that could output almost 70 amps and no more issues except feeding that monster for my power bill. My boxes both have 850s now and run quiet and happy but both have more efficient graphics cards now. My old setup would show 500 or more draw just as a game loaded up and it shut off. I think it maxes out at 350 now with a 4960x and a 1070 gtx and all the other goodies. Nspire used to make great value power supplies back in the day but 4 rails kinda limited what they could power with the high watt video cards some years ago. I remember being excited about getting a decent 300 watt Antec that probably put out 400 clean back in my 486 and early Pentium days, that was a big unit back then.
There are incompatibily Problems with newer psu's having Just one rail, Like the EVGA supernova G2 and older Boards Like the X79 Classified Lavender Mod. IT don't Works. I found the one rail psu mighty in its Performance after having a 1000 Watt ne quiet Dark Power Pro P7 with ist Many 12 Volt rails which one of IT reduces Power in the big 12 V rail To 11,81 Volt wich ist the Order to Shut down system or windows regulary.
One benefit of using an overpowered power supply is that it always runs in passive mode. The PSU fan never has to turn on, so the system is much quieter overall.
For those who wanna get the first gaming PC: (apply to brand new parts, mainstream desktop and the lower side of HEDT) - If your budget is under $1000, you won't need more than a decent 600W (even 400-500w is enough and decent mean 80+ sticker, usually a good brand name) - If your budget is under $2000, you probably won't need more than a decent 600W (+100W if you want a peace of mind, but probably just get the better stuff like 80+ Gold and/or modular PSU). - If your budget is still under $2000 and you know how to OC, then you already know you gonna use, and in this case, 90% possibility, you won't need more than 600W either. 600W is enough for almost everyone. Except the extreme overclockers. And you probably know the stuff when you are at this level. For used parts: 600W is also the sweetest spot. If the deal is good, get it. I won't mind getting a 750W for 500W price because they are clearance or missing modular cables or something like that, if it runs well, I take it. And on defense of the "high wattage rating" choice: PSU tended to run its best (efficiency, temperature) at 50-80% of its capable. Like 400-450W load on a 600W PSU (most of the time when you playing games or doing stuff like rendering video, you won't take your CPU and GPU full load at the same time)
Also to the defense of "high wattage", longevity... 12 years ago, I bought a 800W PSU with intention of a crossfire setup.. I never did. That PSU probably never saw 500W+ utilisation, and looked like a waste of money back then.... However, 12 years later, I still daily use that PSU after 4 GPU and 4 Motherboard upgrades... My 400 and 550W PSUs on my other PCs didn't last half as long. On the long run, it ended up far cheaper than a 550W I could have bought back then..
It doesn't matter what electronic device you are driving... you can never go wrong with a good stable and clean power supply. If your PSU is rated for a higher wattage, and it is a reputable brand, it probably means that it can better compensate for fluctuations, spikes and noise from your mains as well as back emf and noise generated by your usage device(s). A bigger power supply isn't necessarily going to use more power, the power consumption is driven by the components you install. It is just a good idea to spend a little bit extra, and you will never even know that you saved your device(s) when that power spike or dip hits. I've used UPS-es in multiple countries with live power monitoring switched on via serial and later usb ports (yeah I'm old). Please believe me when I tell you that the power from electrical outlets is not as stable as you think. I'm speaking from decades of personal experience. Think of it this way, when you go to the liquor store, rather than buying a "forty" or a six-pack, you would do better to buy a case of beer or even a good bottle of whisky. (If you can afford it) It doesn't mean that you will drink it all in one go, or that you have a substance abuse problem... what it means is that you are the kind of person who plans ahead, and you have something on hand for when your friends drop in unexpectedly. You don't plan for the unforeseen - you prepare for it.
I use a corsair sf450 psu for a 9900k @5ghz 1.25v and a 1080ti with max power limit. The system didnt have a single issue since I bought it around two years ago. The sf450 seems to be a decent power supply.
My laptop has that, 230w, lol! GTX1070 and 8750h Currently the 1070 is out-benching overclocked desktop 1070 since the mobile has more CUDA cores (more like 1070ti) and I spent a lot of time tweaking every MHz on the voltage graph for over a day to dial it in. But the CPU is kinda limited by its 45w constant limit so voltage tuning on it shot up Cinebench by 20+% so now it’s more efficient and powerful while also getting better battery life and better temps and less fan noise, so a major win! 11.8 amp power brick at 19.5v = 230w
lmfao not one of them make PSUs. Seasonic, CWT, Delta, Enermax, PC Power and Cooling - theres some quality PSU makers. FSP are ok these days too. Personally i generally use Seasonic, though most of them are Antec branded. Cheap Coolermaster PSUs tend to be utter crap.
it’s best to run Power Supply’s @ 50% Load to keep it Running at it’s Sufficiency + Less noise + less heat, etc .... 💥 My Evga 600w 80+ Gold is paired with a Ryzenn7 3700x + 32gb Ram + 6tb ssd’s + x570 + Rtx 2060 8gb Super, etc ... Plenty of head Room for future upgrades & Thanx for Posting 🇵🇹
The all important thing here is what quality PSU are you using. If a high end one then even if you push it to the max rated output constantly still generally fine. Cheaper PSU's totally different story - they almost never maintain their 'rated' output for more than like a few milliseconds. All that being said best to leave some headroom as PSU;'s do wear out over time and the electrolytic capacitors will usually be the culprit to slowly degrade leaving less headroom as they age. Best way to tell IMO is to measure the voltage at the GPU input socket (on the GPU not PSU) - if above like 11v then still ok (12v or over is good) as most wont cut out until like 10.5 volts or less.
You make some of the best videos and your PCs you build that you sell a very good great support and value I bought a PC with a rx fury thanks man for making great videos and sell good computers
@ev fn It might be the moral thing to do, but as a sales associate, it is not always in the company's best interest to be saving people money. It's definitely a shitty thing, but many walk-in stores are struggling to get sales in the first place due to this pandemic. Employees can even get in trouble for doing things like this too often. Running a business isn't particularly about being virtuous. Sales is sales. If the customer comes in asking specifically about power supplies, then yeah, you can inform them that you probably don't need a 1000w unit, but if they came in believing that's what they need and intend to buy without asking the associate questions about it, then you should probably let them buy what they want. They are there to sell products and answer questions. The customer might get ripped off, but if they didn't do research before-hand or ask questions, it's kinda their own fault.
Here's my hot take: If the customer wants a power supply that can safeguard their computer from damage or malfunction, then why would op try to argue that customers are wasting money on power supplies when clearly they are still receiving higher product utility than they would on the 450-watt supply?
"I would avoid that like...(oh crap that word will get me demonetized lmao)- something I know out there in the moment that's causing shipping delays" lol!
Most aim high because it's generally understood that your PSU is probably delivering somewhat less than it's rated voltage unless it's a branded PSU with a solid reputation, and "it's generally better to have too much and not need it than need it and have too little"
I mostly agree. But you also have to think about more than just being able to run the games and saving money. With a bigger wattage, you usually have a better build quality, meaning that it usually runs cooler, makes less noise, and can give more stable FPS and can run for many more years. Having a small PSU is a lot like having a Toyota Aygo, where you constantly go up and down in the gears in the city, putting stress on the transmission. Where as having a bigger PSU is more like having a middleclass car that you instead run on the country roads on a stable low to mid RPM. The end result, is a smoother ride and longer lasting ride (more years of use), and if you have to, a more clean acceleration meaning a more fun game experience. A good brand is usually enough to ensure quality, but not always. I suggest on top of that mentioning that you also pick their mid to top line of models. Some big brands with good reputation, have really bad lower models that you want to stay away from. They might work for most people. But they don't always represent the brand very well. I also have to mention that you have to take into consideration, the quality of your VRM's on your motherboard. So if your motherboard is known having power problems with higher model CPU's, then don't take the minimum amount or recommended watts. Go with a little more, and make sure it is a good brand with a semi high model. Just like the new x570 MSI boards that are the cheapest, there is a reason why they are so cheap (VRM), so in this type of case you don't want to save on the PSU. I remember back in the days when I bought a no brand cheap PSU even with a high wattage. They would usually only last 2-5 years, sometimes up to 8 years. My last 2 corsair PSU that are only highest low model and mid/mid model, lasted me 10 and 14 years. And I don't even think that Corsair are the very best, they are just one of the best brands of maybe 5 in total. So you also have to take that into consideration price wise. When you go with a bad PSU, it is like driving a small car with a worn down clutch, not fun at all.
The fact that he stressed the system with 3d applications for more than 7 hours and put "No 3D applications or rendering" in the PSU calculator really bothers me.
Had a cheap no-name and uncoated 450W PSU coupled with a 1080 and an i5, external soundcard, 7TB of HDD and SSD (4 in total). Lasted 4 years. Then all the electricity went out upon switching on the computer. Swapped the PSU. Suddenly my PC was running silent and my temps were 15°C lower. 😅
@@richardlenaghen7403 I can tell that you have not understood and/or probably disregarded my first comment entirely proving you to be as stupid or even dumber then him
This was very interesting. I used that calculate and it's telling me a 500w should be fine even for a 16 hours. So I guess my 750w is overkill, but it was a good price also I do plan on upgrading my gpu later this year.
I have run a Vega 56 + 7700K (both heavily overclocked) on an EVGA 550W unit and had no issues whatsoever. FPS was capped at 144. But I have always trusted EVGA units so it was no real surprise. Go for a quality, trusted brand and you don't need a super high power rating.
the evga psu´s are made by super flower. i´ve used 980TI SLI with an e5-2690 on X79 classified X Lavender mod, 750 Series 400Gb and about 5 Sata SSD´s with a super flower atlas 680Watt of ~2001-4
I find power related videos so interesting. I keep getting the idea new parts, like these new Ampere and RDNA2 cards, will need a bigger PSU but I think my Seasonic 650w will be enough.
Most quality power supplies have some design headroom, and so do the components. When my 800w PSU died I ran a spare 450w PSU past it's rating for months on end and it was fine, never got hot either. 500-520 watt power draw at wall for me. It is still a gamble, any weaknesses in your hardware and the magic smoke comes out.
id say "most quality gold rated +" have the headroom design, on cheaper psu its the other way around most of those trashy psu's cant even deliver what they are rated for. Also most workloads dont stress all components at the same time thats why you managed to run your system on 450w psu.
when you mentioned a certain virus I just had to stop and comment, its such BS ppl are getting demonitized for saying it yet I went through 3 different mid roll ads on separate videos yesterday talking all about said virus
the funny thing is you probably wouldn't have any problems using its actual name (COVID19) or even the new "crown" virus which was what the popular name meant. I mean terminology wise people may as well be talking about the common cold (many causes of which are corona(crown) viruses).
Ah yes but as long as nobody talks about it then it's not a problem, nothing to see here, keep calm and carry on, and remember to buy that new iphone! Spend! Work! Spend more! 8) It is indeed completely nuts. They never did this kind of nonsense for any previous outbreak. "sensitive subject", ha! Can you imagine that kind of mindset in 1939? Nah, sorry, you can't mention the advancing armies and falling bombs because some snowflakes might get upset. These days it seems like a bunch of wimps run the media world, or at least panders to them to the craziest degree. However, I don't think the virus cares about our feelings, and facts can be hard things to confront... th-cam.com/video/rbHxeOQA1Mc/w-d-xo.html "not allowed to talk about it" is one of the dumbest MOs of our time. The media tries to impose an Overton window so small it barely counts as a peep hole.
@@mapesdhs597 While I do agree with most of what you said, I don't think this is done to pander to snowflakes, it's done to pander to our dear chinese overlords because they can and would retaliate harder than any number of snowflakes ever could if they were upset. ;)
@@Yuzuki1337 It's a combination of both. The former do have significant influence in various political and media circles atm (doubly so educational institutions), though this year is likely to be when their meddling will at last begin to fade away.
mapesdhs . It's funny you talk about snowflakes having all this influence. They don't and never had. It's just a vocal minority that people attribute influence and power to. It's also kinda pathetic that people refer to others as snowflakes while they too are delicate.
I generally like to overbuy on a PSU. But not in false thinking that I need that additional power, but to have it more silent, because it is not as stressed out and therefore runs cooler. For instance, I bought two 550W PSU recently, although even the little brother with 450W would have done mighty fine (Optiplex 3020/9020 replacements). Concerning acoustics I have been damaged by my first PC all those years ago. That thing was loud as a jet engine (literally! And that is also the reason, why I avoid Cooler Master fans) and I want my rigs to be near silent now because of that.
Dude, I am SOOO grateful for that explanation at 8:05 ... I've never seen this before and now I will be lookin out for this every time I buy a new PSU, thank you so much :)
A lot of the branded power supplies are all made in the same factories in China these days. Coolermaster being one of the main ones. GPU Manufactures always spec high ratings on Power Supplies because of all the inferior models out there. One of my favorite system builds was Dual R9 280x crossfire, i7 950 OC @ 3.6GHZ, 8GB RAM, SSD . It ran crossfire games on Ultra pulling 350 watts from the wall. I had a 80+ gold 550 watts installed and it didn't miss a beat.
I recently built a new PC and I chose a Seasonic Focus GX850 watt power supply.I have a gigabyte aorus b550 pro ac with wifi motherboard,an amd ryzen 5 3600x,an xfx radeon rx 580 with 8GBs,two 2TB SSD drives,a dvd burner and 5 case fans (two at the top and 3 at the front.).While most people would consider 850 watts overkill I chose the Seasonic Focus GX850 because I have been using Seasonic power supplies for years now and I find them very dependable,plus I may use a custom water cooling loop for this recent PC build but I'm not sure yet.Very good video,in my opinion it's better to have more wattage than is necessary and from a reputable power supply manufaturer instead of buying a power supply then upgrading and finding out that the power supply that you have is not enough and having to buy a new power supply.A 1000 watt power supply is way too much for the PC build that you demonstrate in your video though unless of course the owner of a PC build is planning to add dual video cards,a water cooling loop with dual water pumps and extra case fans in a full tower PC case.Thank you for the video and God bless you and your family.
I was always told to get a power supply that lets you run your system at 50-60% of the rated wattage. That way the PSU isn't running like mad just to idle at the desktop. Also, the higher power output PSUs are usually more heat efficient.
*PSU FAN NOISE MATTERS TOO!!* Look for not just quality, but a PSU with a nice fan curve. A while back I bought a 750W PSU because I calculated my system would use just under 50% of that so I bought the model where the fan stays OFF until 50% load which I don't hit... however, newer PSU's have great options such as the Corsair CX550 which is reasonably priced and the fan stays at 10dB (can't hear that) until about 225W then slowly ramps up so it's still only 20dB at 440W load... an R5-3600 + RTX2070 Super system probably uses around 300W total for typical gaming so IMO this would be a great choice!
Strangely enough in past there were PSUs that could offer a lot more power than their name would suggest. Some manufacturers did this so they could use a higher "80+"-rating for the power supply. For example Super Flower's "Golden Green Pro 450W" was in reality 550W unit. It remained inside "80+ Gold" standard when power usage was below 450W. After that it's efficiency would drop slightly and it would be "80+ Silver" unit effectively. In past I tested Intel Core 2 Q6600 + 8800 GTS 640MB with 350W Fortron OEM PSU. It worked, but sounded like it would explode at any second.
I remember a young youtuber from Mexico that did something similar but worse, one or two years ago, he had a cheap psu of 450w or 400w 80+ bronze with a ryzen 7 3700x and a 2080ti that he borrowed, and amazingly that psu didn't broke down
itll run cooler and at around 50% use, most efficient as it peaks at around 40 to 60% and drops slightly at 90% and up. So having headroom is good but planning to have the psu run at 50% avg is best.
be careful with powerboards, i have had a power board trip out my whole circuit and damage a power supply in the past to the point where it is smoking now (unusable), that power board suffice to say is no longer in action.
I run a Ryzen 5 3600 X and Radeon RX 5700 XT with 1 M.2, 2 2.5" SSD and 4 HDD on a 500 watt power supply. 16 GB RAM and 5 RGB fans and RGB heatsinks too. Calculations said I would be close to max, but it's been good so far. At some point I'll upgrade to like a 650, but for now it's solid.
Great point to bring up. I often use that website to guide me to a suitable psu for my builds, I also want to point out that it also gives you a full list for 5V, 12V and 3.3V calculations so you can directly compare those specs to your psu. One thing I always take in to concideration is some headroom for the degradation of the psu over time and also future component upgrades. Going from 450W to say a 500W psu can be as low as 10 bucks more some times.
They were took out from old Dell workstation or tower server I guess. They are decent, most of them are made by Delta or Seasonic. Both of them are good name in PSU making scene.
I had a dell XPS 420 bought in 2008 had a 420w PSU. I put 6 different GPUs into it all with higher wattage ratings than the PSU and never had a problem. That pc lasted 10 years.
You can run inadequate PSUs on a larger draw system you just run the risk of system instability, wearing the PSU out faster or making the caps explode potentially. You can also run a laptop or monitor with a lower than recommended amperage but same thing might happen- hotter higher stresses stuff usually fails faster but it’s probably fine in a pinch.
@@rkan2 the moment he overclocks his cpu and changes the monitor to a 2 or 4K resolution is the moment this PSU will either smoke its fuses off, or will just refuse to run. People need to understand that people who buy enthusiast level hardware like the ones he shows mounting in his clip aren't actually buying them for casual use as he gives an impression, let alone the hardware he stressed on was built to take heavy workloads, and I would add that he actually misuses it in this clip unfortunately. Tell me one lad with a decent budget who would pick a 2080ti with a 1080p monitor, or a lad who got himself an r9 3950x just to use it for casual work load and not even overclock it?. Hell tell me what kind of people who buy this kind of hardware who aren't at least tech savvy enthusiasts and tinkerers in the first place.
All my builds only really need between 550 to 650 watts PSU max, But i always go for a 850 80+ Gold or Platinum PSU for the extra headroom & to keep noise & heat down. Plus most PSU are most efficient at around 50% usage & a little extra power for unforeseen upgrades never hurt.
I'm licensed by the U.S. FCC for radios. I can tell you that PSUs are a strange beast and don't like being run near full load all the time. If you need 500 watts, it's better to go at least 600 watts as an example. PSU ratings are for peak and based on duty cycle, not continuous.
I tried running a Tech YES Video on a potato!
Spoiler Alert: It works!
Yesterday's video wasn't working on some peoples high end phones :(
@@techyescity, yeah I didn't get sound on your ninja mouse video....
@@techyescity Bloody TH-cam! I say try a Xeon. It solves everything.
Yes... but can run crysis on your potato?
Tech YES City I can’t watch it on my ipad
This is what happens when you win a cpu and gpu in a giveaway
Lol
I guess but if u win that u better work ur ass off to buy a decent motheboard an PSU.
Or just sell them n get some money .n make a build u can actually take advantage off
Lmao
@@NeVErseeNMeLikEDis sell 3950X for 700$, sell RTX 2080 ti for 1000$
build a 3700X + 2080 Super + B450 Tomahawk + RM650X + 16GB 3600/CL16 + 1TB SSD + 1440p/144hz monitor with that money
i can relate lmao XD
I have several hundred hours in F1 2019. It crashes like that all the time. A few times in the middle of my league race. Trust me the PSU was not at fault
sadly its the truth, for some reason f1 games have this bad habit of crashing for no reason
When I play in fullscreen I have crashes, but when I play in window mode I don't have any problem.
if i put my 4gb evga 10150ti in nvidia controle panel on balance mode, wy csgo is crashing, if i change it, csgo works fine.
Codemasters are shit. I gave up with their games.
i just made a account for eve online online and the game runs bad with full screen mode and fast with windowed mode and its the only game i know that does that
The crash is just F1 2019 being F1 2019... Having played this game a lot it does just randomly crash now and then with no error message. Ask anyone who league races on this game, you’ll get the same response.
Even just in career or gp this happens, on a ryzen 7 3700x and rtx 2060 with 650w like low settings its stupid lmao
I second this.
PUBG: Hold My CTD
Yeah that's right i have f1 2015 and it has the same problem xd when i run 2019 its the same
Comanso he should retest with other game
I appreciate videos like this because it's really shows where most people are at with their builds. I just ordered the parts for a Ryzen 5 3600X and a 5600XT build, and I went with a Corsair RM650X which I know is more than enough. Not overclocking. Funny how some people would try to tell me I need a 1000W PSU. I know they're out there and you've shown this. Respect!
Yeah but if you wanna upgrade future GPUs are gonna use more power. Especially if you wanna do Nvidia cards in the future the 4080 and 4090 use at least 500-666W at normal use. Not saying you want those GPUs but since the PSU is gonna last longer than a lot of your PC Parts you can save money over time paying more for a high wattage PSU. I was using my 750W PSU for 7 years before upgrading my monitor and GPU. I noticed that I was getting random restarts and crashes and just changed to my 1000W PSU and it’s a lot better than I thought. I will soon be grabbing a 1200W PSU for a separate server build
any electronic device isn't design to blow up once you overload them. That's why there is tolerance value, ranging from 1% to 20% depending on what component it is. For example, your laptop has power supply rated at usually around 19v. 20v will never blow anything, in fact it will draw a little bit less current because you're supplying more voltage ( power = voltage x current). But there's always limit of how much voltage and current a component will be able to take. (voltage is pushed, current is drawn)
so i'm not surprised if you could drive that psu to years drawing 500 watt everyday.
what you should consider is checking the efficiency of the power supply and also the cut off power of a psu. Some psu will cut off the power once you pass 5-10% + 100% of the rated power. Some just goes to 20% with no problem
BREAKING: Australian man's power supply blows up
BREAKING
He attempted to make an impossible experiment and his Power supply just blew up.
She Blinded Me, ...WITH SCIENCE!! Thomas Dolby LIVES!
@@dropdead234 Thomas Dolby does live. He is currently 61.
@@Safetytrousers Went right over your head, didn't it?
2:11 I'll correct Brian a PSU rating is it's maximum continuous supply to the PC. My PSU is rated 450watts but the manual says it can handle peaks of 500 for a few seconds.
I wish that were always true, but it isnt. Quality PSUs are rated continuous, and can generally far exceed their rating, cheap PSUs are often just rated max
It's true they're usually rated to work up to 110% DC output wattage before OPP shut down. During all this, it would draw a lot more than 450W from the wall due to the way efficiency is calculated (450W DCout @ 90% Eff = 500W at the wall).
But that's also only its maximum rated output within a very narrow temperature range. Once they exceed say 40°C (for my PSU at least) operating temperature, output capability starts to drop, making 500W peak a risky thing yet again. There's a lot of factors to consider if you're approaching the limits of your unit.
@@lejac4916 There's the reason I forgot for why you need a fair bit of headroom. You need to be certain for the entire range of temps and humidity it will be exposed to.
My HX1200i passed over 1350w on 12v output for over 24 hour test (fans barely had to spin at 400-600 rpm, silent, not even warm while running out of spec like this and running 90% efficient. Wall power was obviously higher at 1550w) My SuperNova 1300 can push a bit higher (never OCP yet even on estimated 1.5kw output), but it’s loud even at idle and blows realistically hot (not like some, but it’s pushing some heat at full and above rated spec loads).
The good ones exceed specs, the cheap ones like Rosewill blow up your SSD and won’t replace it (1000w Hive blew up at 830w wall power, so like 700w output max ever). I’ve also popped OCP on their Glacier 1000 at 630w (so like 500w output), and the cables are thin and crappy aluminum (you can tell which cable is to what set by picking it up, same gauge but apparently the copper weighs twice as much on premium units). I’ve also blown another but it was near spec for a couple years and failed softly just dieing out gradually and safe (no $250 SSD fried on it, so no complaints).
Also note the SuperNova 1300 (fully modular and exceeds spec) was like $25 more than the crappy Rosewill Hive (semi-modular, epic fail and parts blown below 70% spec). So I wouldn’t call the Rosewill cheap, they are right next to the high end super high power models, you don’t get what you pay for on that Rosewill brand!
also dont forget they're only efficient up to a percentage of that number. IE. bronze-plat rating
try a cheap “a-brand-you-never-heard-of” or an oem psu lmao. some people will get triggered
I bought a hp elitedesk and the oem psu in it is 80+ platinum
Already tripped the aliexpress banger lol.
Tech YES City bruh good luck with that lmaoo
@@techyescity 450W, 80 minus wood certified
Make sure it doesn't come with the certain recent virus
The internet: You can't run a 3950x and 2080 ti on a 450 watt power supply.
450 watt power supply: Hold my beer.
huh
Hold my watts
Yes you can but should you?
@Nuno Filipe i am running a 2060 super+ 3600 on 450w.
That doesn't make any sense.
Try again...
Great video. I was told I was crazy when I decided to reuse a gold rated 550w psu for a 9900k 1080ti rig. During gaming I pull tops 400 from the wall.
@@LucasFerreira-gx9yh I'm using 400w from the wall, meaning about 360W of actual power use... you're drinking the over-buying PSU cool aid.
@@LucasFerreira-gx9yh Efficiency comes first, wattage second. Efficiency signals that it's going to consistently deliver its true rating which means you don't have to overbuy...and because it's efficient it makes less heat which is good for longevity and means that your build can use a smaller cooling solution! My experience is that the OEM power supplies are built to just barely do the job and will give out in a few months if loaded continuously, even if the system is in factory configuration; I would always buy at least an 80+ rating PSU if you intend for the system to last.
Every power supply does age, but that's just the nature of capacitors. Plan to replace it when you change motherboards and you should be fine.
you are crazy bro
@@narwin2477 it's doing totally fine... 360w is really not too hard for a 550w psu...
@@BL-hj7hi yeah bitch now check how much performance you're losing because of your components undervolting themselves... probably can be seen on cinebench
I've been saying it for years. But good luck trying to convince people with cinder blocks for heads they don't need a 1000w PSU if they are not running multiple GPUs, a high end server or doing some sort of data mining.
IT IS a sexual Thing for Sure.
1000w? No, but I'd say 850 watt is probably the sweet spot for a high-end single-GPU system that might see some overclocking. There are two areas you need to look at when sizing a GPU. First is your expected worst-case power draw (with some headroom to make sure you're not redlining it, which this video never did as the GPU and CPU were never stressed simultaneously), but the second is the noise and efficiency curves of a PSU. Power supplies are rarely at their most efficient when they're pushed to their limits, and a 600 watt load on an 850 watt power supply will probably be quite a lot quieter than a 600 watt load on a 650 watt power supply. Good power supply vendors will publish both the efficiency and noise curves for their power supplies, letting you see how loud your expected loud will be.
I know I didn't need a high wattage power supply, but I got a good deal on a SeaSonic X1250, and I was concerned ab noise and it had a passive mode. I got it for $140, and expect it to last a long long time, and generally don't hear the fan turn on.
cazablocki cinder block head confirmed 🤡
@@maoteddy5879 Some people value silence. If you compare a 450W and 1250W PSU that both have passive modes (meaning the fan doesn't spin up until a certain power draw), I think you'll find the 1250W unit can push far more power before the fan is required.
I remember a few years ago I upgraded my 750 ti to a r9 380 and my psu blew up the next day lol. Dont buy no name power supplies
Yeah once I turned on my PC and a cloud of black smoke came out of my trusty old Thermaltake generic PSU that came with the 40 dollar case. Still ran fine for months afterwards
Did it take your parts with it?
I used to have a 550 B3 from EVGA in my main PC with an R5-2600 and a GTX 970(at the time, it has a Vega 56 now) I had it since 2017 and one day it turned off while I was playing a game, then it wouldn’t turn back on. It eventually turned back on and made a loud pop and started spewing smoke out the back. Thankfully nothing was damaged.
@@rundown132 fortunately it did not take my parts
Yeah, PSU should be expensive, and you'll be fine. I learned this from a cheap one either. FSP is amazing.
Always good to watch a video on PSU's. Buying the best PSU should never be overlooked, its practically the only part that doesn't need upgrading within 10 or more years. It's one of the reasons we are seeing manufactures offer 5, 7, and even 10 years' warranty.
04:39 "1 Watt = FPS New Measuring Tool For POWAAAAR!" 😂
time for gigawatt PSU
I can’t believe this! I was searching for 2080ti on 450w psu yesterday and couldn’t find any good results. Thanks for this video!
That was good information about the amps on a single rail. A multi-rail psu may not be able to provide enough power to the gpu.
citizenguy thanks for the info!
But for a RTX 2080 TI with a CPU which can fuel IT wholeworthy i would Take a 850 80+ Platinum or Gold psu Minimum. The Card can get "Spulenfiepen".
@@8iosatlost209 what
Don't do it bro, obey the 80%
The whole MWE series is actually pretty decent for it's price.
i have the masterwatt , the one step high range model, the sleeving sucks, the glue that stick the heat shrink to the 24 pin came out easily, i also had another unit that had the 24 pin clip broken while new in box
@@lansiman It could be bad unit man?Idk, I never had a problem and the cables are decently sleeved even tho they're the "Ketchup and mustard" ones.
@@thatsoomohit it could be just my bad unit,but i'm talking about 3 out of 4 unit here,i do build for people and i ordered 2 unit,both had workmanship defect,i exchange for another 2,one still had it and one ok,i even do unboxing video for fear that dealer might blame user error for it
@@lansiman As far as I know Masterwatt is lower quality than MWE. Unless you mean Masterwatt Maker which is extremely rare.
Corsair V is better because of better topology
Often there's no price increase between good brand 450W PSU similar 600W PSU.
I selected parts for my friend's PC and it was taking like 300W so 350W recommended but 600W one was only $5 more so I got it for him.
Doesn't always hapoen,in my country 450 psu's are atleaat 4 times cheaper than 550 or 600.
But cons the more expensive 450w psu are fully or semi-modular, also bronze, golden, platinum ratings has bit diffrence at energy-wasting bronze is 85%~, gold 90%~, platinum 93%~. So expensive 450w might be gold, fully modular, premium materials. Same price 600w might was basic or bronze non-modular. Basic is 80%~
Only loading a PSU up to about 50% of it's rated power does have the benefit of running the system at it's highest power efficiency. On average a power supply's efficiency curve peaks at around 50% keeping the temps low, and thus the fan off.
This is true on older/cheaper electrical designs, but modern tech has flattened the efficiency curve considerably. Whether the fan is running or not depends more on the specific design of the unit rather than just its efficiency curve, e.g. if the designer has used smaller/cheaper heat dissipating components that require more air flow.
@@BruceLeedar Look at any power supply, even the highest end one's efficiency curves and you will see for yourself that this is still the case, it's physics. They for sure have wider efficiency bands than earlier designs though.
@@BruceLeedar There are efficiency curves on the PSU manufacturers website (if its a reputable brand like Seasonic), too bad he didn't mention the reason it is actually recommended to get about a 40% bigger PSU rating for your system unless you dont really care about power consumption and your components
I did the test myself with 450W cooler master power supply and used it with 2600 and 2060 the end result The power supply died a year after. The thing with power supply is they degrade over time and usage that means at start they will have good efficiency and as they become close to the end of warranty or after that they will degrade to 50-60% of there peak performance.
@Ghost-squad I changed my graphic card with 1 year of warranty left in that power supply it died the next day the warranty expired with 2060.
@Ghost-squad I had cooler master 450w power supply which I was using for 2 years I bought 2060 and used it with the same power supply and it died after the end of 3 year 1 day. Cooler master gives 3 years of warranty. Hence I posted my first comment
this is why i like your channel.. you make great and important content as always.
Reminds me of the time when I installed a 500watts PSU to my client's unit with a gt1030 and he said he replaced it with a better PSU which is a 700watts generic one. I like fhe way he said it was better because it was 700 watts compared to the 500 true rated I installed. 😂 I explain all the power thing but left things to his hands. He'll eventually bring it back to me when he get problem with it.
I suppose you have charged him for warranty service? Or nothing got damage permanently?
He's got a 1030 lmao, there are few PSUs I wouldn't trust with that
With a GT 1030 he no need more then 450w 80+ white and even this is OVERKILL.
@@strohhuttv8848 already told him that. Even a 300watts on a OEM can run that card. You don't argue with customers though. I keep all record and contracts because there will always be that one customer that will either try to rip you off or don't listen but don't want to pay either because they made their research but have you repair it.
@@jay22alco Indeed today most customers doesn't listen and do what they want.
I'm glad you said that you don't recommand to do that. Once I had a d950 and hd4850 everything oc. And the no name supply just went into fire while playing far cry 2 at max. Since then, I buy overkill power supply to have room for oc and security. And also getting a more powerful power supply and not using the power make it last longer.
Something to keep in mind for anyone reading this, power supplies are most efficient when at about 50% of its maximum output. So for a PC sucking up 400W you'd want a PSU around 850W for maximum efficiency, but it will run just fine on something below that.
@DARKDAYZGAMESDDG It won't change the performance and it's not really something that matters since it's not pulling that much power anyway, but a higher efficiency would mean less power wasted and less heat output from the power supply. Not really something that matters at the low end where power draw is generally pretty low (excluding old parts that are power hungry but low end for today's standards), but something that does matter at the high end where power draw is much higher and where a few percentage will mean a bigger number!
I'm glad I found this video. Was worried to if my new GPU would run or not.
Used the calculator. And I dont even hit 400w with my system on a full gaming load.
So useful
I find a great many people buy less than they need in quality. A "450" watt peak power PSU probably puts out 350 or less maximum watts continuous power. Almost everyone thinks the cheapest power supply they can find is good. Thank you for another informative video.
The fact that the psu has 2 8 pins on it's pcie cable is pretty impressive
Well something like a 1070 will need them
@@markomclane475 no
@@markomclane475 it might have them for some reason but it will never need them. GTX 1070 is a 150W card even one 8 pin is overkill actually.
Awesome stuff Brian, I see this all too often where people go out and either by a junk PSU that claims ridiculous ratings but is in essence a 250w - 300w junker PSU or they massively over spend on a super high power PSU then barely utilize it.
Peak efficiency on any decent (80+ Bronze or better) PSU is at roughly 50% utilization, that is where the PSU is happiest and runs cool so throwing a 1000w PSU at a system that peaks at even 400w means you will be running well under peak efficiency (and yes, efficiency drops both under and over 50%), worse still, you will not be running at peak draw very often, so efficiency will drop even more the lower your draw gets. Conversely, the higher your utilization (on an inadequate PSU) the more heat is created and the lower efficiency drops. Higher heat means lower efficiency, higher ripple and poor stability.
Realistically for power efficiency and reliability you want a PSU that peaks at about 75 - 80% utilization during maximum draw and runs close to 50% when gaming, video editing etc. The more you can keep your system in the sweet spot the longer all your components will last, power delivery in the efficiency sweet spot also tends to have less ripple and be more stable.
No
Yes
Modern PSUs don't have a curve like that. Corsair has moved towards near peak efficiency regardless of load for all but the lowest end of their lineup. JohnnyGuru references itnis his PC world psu myths video.
@@eila2088 The efficiency curve of (current) higher tier PSUs is almost flat these days but running at ~50% load most of the time still prolongs their lifespan and is still better for the system long term. I generalized to include even budget oriented (80+ rated) PSUs and it won't hurt higher tier PSUs either. It's sound advice no matter how much you are spending on your PSU.
The only argument against it would be if you are planning to upgrade (your system not the PSU) down the line in which case tailor your purchase to that power envelope not your current one. Common sense really.
@@Xaltar_ I believe you reminding my own experiences. And another Aspekt ist that Many people Plan their expensive Upgrade arround a 500 Watt psu which they bought bevore. There can be used even 2 psu's in one system. I have Made very good experiences with Overlocking using a psu for mobo& CPu&RAM&storage and one for the Graphik Card!! And they can get weaker psu's can get weaker that ist true!!!!!
The thing to take into account with a PSU in the long run is it's efficency, PSU's have the best efficency at half load, also a psu is going to last longer at half load than at full load. (My first gaming computer I built had a psu that didn't even last 3 years because it was a evga 450W bronze on a computer that used 350W) And when you take into account an average power consumption of 350 watts for a gaming rig the differience in power use over a 5 year span is about $30 from a bronze to a gold PSU, so if you can get a gold psu for up to $30 more than that bronze psu it will make up for it. So for that rig the best psu to pair it with would probably be a gold 750W psu which you can get for about $110 rather than a bronze at about $95 as it will more than make up the cost differience in reduced power consumption. With the wall power draw being 430W at 80% efficiency that means the pc is actually using about 344W at full load, which means with a 90% efficient power supply it will only use 382W or roughly half of a 750W PSU en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus
its a codemasters game. expect crashes at any given moment
Ironic the company name is Codemasters
@@remyb2154 yeah thats the running gag for me
lmao. My Dirt game crashes on PC almost like on the 3rd or 4th day ( no BSOD). Also suprisingly it also crashes ( F1 2017) on my ps4 quite often though its downloaded on an HDD and not read from the Bluray disk
@NICULL Same
yeah my psu exploded when i was playing a game i have a weak ass psu
Nothing exceeds like excess... I usually try to have 750 to 850 in my boxes for the extra headroom. I actually HAD to buy a 850 back when I was running a 4870x2 card. It pulled so much current when it booted into a 3d game the psu would shut down do to overcurrent on one of the 4 gpu dedicated rails. Each rail on my 750 Nspire was rated 18 amps max and video card buried it. I got a 850 that had a single rail that could output almost 70 amps and no more issues except feeding that monster for my power bill. My boxes both have 850s now and run quiet and happy but both have more efficient graphics cards now. My old setup would show 500 or more draw just as a game loaded up and it shut off. I think it maxes out at 350 now with a 4960x and a 1070 gtx and all the other goodies. Nspire used to make great value power supplies back in the day but 4 rails kinda limited what they could power with the high watt video cards some years ago. I remember being excited about getting a decent 300 watt Antec that probably put out 400 clean back in my 486 and early Pentium days, that was a big unit back then.
There are incompatibily Problems with newer psu's having Just one rail, Like the EVGA supernova G2 and older Boards Like the X79 Classified Lavender Mod. IT don't Works. I found the one rail psu mighty in its Performance after having a 1000 Watt ne quiet Dark Power Pro P7 with ist Many 12 Volt rails which one of IT reduces Power in the big 12 V rail To 11,81 Volt wich ist the Order to Shut down system or windows regulary.
One benefit of using an overpowered power supply is that it always runs in passive mode. The PSU fan never has to turn on, so the system is much quieter overall.
For those who wanna get the first gaming PC: (apply to brand new parts, mainstream desktop and the lower side of HEDT)
- If your budget is under $1000, you won't need more than a decent 600W (even 400-500w is enough and decent mean 80+ sticker, usually a good brand name)
- If your budget is under $2000, you probably won't need more than a decent 600W (+100W if you want a peace of mind, but probably just get the better stuff like 80+ Gold and/or modular PSU).
- If your budget is still under $2000 and you know how to OC, then you already know you gonna use, and in this case, 90% possibility, you won't need more than 600W either.
600W is enough for almost everyone. Except the extreme overclockers. And you probably know the stuff when you are at this level.
For used parts: 600W is also the sweetest spot. If the deal is good, get it. I won't mind getting a 750W for 500W price because they are clearance or missing modular cables or something like that, if it runs well, I take it.
And on defense of the "high wattage rating" choice: PSU tended to run its best (efficiency, temperature) at 50-80% of its capable. Like 400-450W load on a 600W PSU (most of the time when you playing games or doing stuff like rendering video, you won't take your CPU and GPU full load at the same time)
Archmage when?
Also to the defense of "high wattage", longevity... 12 years ago, I bought a 800W PSU with intention of a crossfire setup.. I never did. That PSU probably never saw 500W+ utilisation, and looked like a waste of money back then.... However, 12 years later, I still daily use that PSU after 4 GPU and 4 Motherboard upgrades... My 400 and 550W PSUs on my other PCs didn't last half as long. On the long run, it ended up far cheaper than a 550W I could have bought back then..
Thank you for this info!
It doesn't matter what electronic device you are driving... you can never go wrong with a good stable and clean power supply. If your PSU is rated for a higher wattage, and it is a reputable brand, it probably means that it can better compensate for fluctuations, spikes and noise from your mains as well as back emf and noise generated by your usage device(s). A bigger power supply isn't necessarily going to use more power, the power consumption is driven by the components you install. It is just a good idea to spend a little bit extra, and you will never even know that you saved your device(s) when that power spike or dip hits. I've used UPS-es in multiple countries with live power monitoring switched on via serial and later usb ports (yeah I'm old). Please believe me when I tell you that the power from electrical outlets is not as stable as you think. I'm speaking from decades of personal experience. Think of it this way, when you go to the liquor store, rather than buying a "forty" or a six-pack, you would do better to buy a case of beer or even a good bottle of whisky. (If you can afford it) It doesn't mean that you will drink it all in one go, or that you have a substance abuse problem... what it means is that you are the kind of person who plans ahead, and you have something on hand for when your friends drop in unexpectedly. You don't plan for the unforeseen - you prepare for it.
I use a corsair sf450 psu for a 9900k @5ghz 1.25v and a 1080ti with max power limit. The system didnt have a single issue since I bought it around two years ago. The sf450 seems to be a decent power supply.
nice does it still work good if you're still using it?
Last time I was this early, 225w was sufficient.
Nowadays PSU under 400W are usually found in SFF, that being said, true 350-400W is enough to run a lot of mid range rig already.
Damn that was a long time ago
@@Verpal I'm running I7-8700 with rtx2060 16gb ram 1 m.2 stick and 2TB HDD on 350w PSU lok
I have a Ryzen 5 3600 + a Zotac GTX 1650 low profile running on a 200w hdplex with a laptop charger
My laptop has that, 230w, lol! GTX1070 and 8750h
Currently the 1070 is out-benching overclocked desktop 1070 since the mobile has more CUDA cores (more like 1070ti) and I spent a lot of time tweaking every MHz on the voltage graph for over a day to dial it in. But the CPU is kinda limited by its 45w constant limit so voltage tuning on it shot up Cinebench by 20+% so now it’s more efficient and powerful while also getting better battery life and better temps and less fan noise, so a major win!
11.8 amp power brick at 19.5v = 230w
2:27 "High end components use more *compower"*
*Grate speach*
CoolerMaster & Antec & Silverstone -- really make the best value-for-money PSUs . Truly lovely . Plus , no coil whine BS at all .
Don't forget Seasonic :D
lmfao not one of them make PSUs.
Seasonic, CWT, Delta, Enermax, PC Power and Cooling - theres some quality PSU makers. FSP are ok these days too.
Personally i generally use Seasonic, though most of them are Antec branded.
Cheap Coolermaster PSUs tend to be utter crap.
@@lifelightv2 . Yes . Seasonic too , although used that for a very few builds -- about 15 tops .
Had my 1200w Silverstone powering my personal rig from 2013 and still going strong today on Mordern hardware 💓
Coolermaster and value for money don't come together.
1:02 Wow! It looks really interesting and fun too!
*"Generally considered high end parts"* Yep
Then runs it in 1080p T_T
@@Meklon It doesn't matter since it's pretty much uncapped fps
I hate these types of people, calling an RTX 2080 “decent” or some shit, irritates the hell out of me
Alper Duman why bother watching then?
@@alperduman9294 Yeah I consider my 1660 super decent and anything higher then that high end.
It is amazing how much less heat/power gets produced from a light undervolt on CPU and GPU.
it’s best to run Power Supply’s @ 50% Load to keep it Running at it’s Sufficiency + Less noise + less heat, etc .... 💥 My Evga 600w 80+ Gold is paired with a Ryzenn7 3700x + 32gb Ram + 6tb ssd’s + x570 + Rtx 2060 8gb Super, etc ... Plenty of head Room for future upgrades & Thanx for Posting 🇵🇹
I wish that I was a Madman.....Tech Yes City in the house.
Christopher Coonan true fan x2
@@venganzadechuky just a fan.
The all important thing here is what quality PSU are you using. If a high end one then even if you push it to the max rated output constantly still generally fine. Cheaper PSU's totally different story - they almost never maintain their 'rated' output for more than like a few milliseconds. All that being said best to leave some headroom as PSU;'s do wear out over time and the electrolytic capacitors will usually be the culprit to slowly degrade leaving less headroom as they age.
Best way to tell IMO is to measure the voltage at the GPU input socket (on the GPU not PSU) - if above like 11v then still ok (12v or over is good) as most wont cut out until like 10.5 volts or less.
This is the kind of content I enjoy watching 😂😂 Getting the most performance out of a bare minimum amount of power consumption!
You make some of the best videos and your PCs you build that you sell a very good great support and value I bought a PC with a rx fury thanks man for making great videos and sell good computers
Steve cool clip, I'm going to use your clip to tell so many that come into were I work, And tell them they don't need 1000W power unit.
Let them buy what they want
It's not really your business to tell them what they don't need.
@@MrCrazyjoe259 Sounds very close to ripping off some customers that may not return.
@ev fn It might be the moral thing to do, but as a sales associate, it is not always in the company's best interest to be saving people money. It's definitely a shitty thing, but many walk-in stores are struggling to get sales in the first place due to this pandemic. Employees can even get in trouble for doing things like this too often. Running a business isn't particularly about being virtuous. Sales is sales. If the customer comes in asking specifically about power supplies, then yeah, you can inform them that you probably don't need a 1000w unit, but if they came in believing that's what they need and intend to buy without asking the associate questions about it, then you should probably let them buy what they want. They are there to sell products and answer questions. The customer might get ripped off, but if they didn't do research before-hand or ask questions, it's kinda their own fault.
Here's my hot take:
If the customer wants a power supply that can safeguard their computer from damage or malfunction, then why would op try to argue that customers are wasting money on power supplies when clearly they are still receiving higher product utility than they would on the 450-watt supply?
"I would avoid that like...(oh crap that word will get me demonetized lmao)- something I know out there in the moment that's causing shipping delays" lol!
Most aim high because it's generally understood that your PSU is probably delivering somewhat less than it's rated voltage unless it's a branded PSU with a solid reputation, and "it's generally better to have too much and not need it than need it and have too little"
I mostly agree. But you also have to think about more than just being able to run the games and saving money.
With a bigger wattage, you usually have a better build quality, meaning that it usually runs cooler, makes less noise, and can give more stable FPS and can run for many more years. Having a small PSU is a lot like having a Toyota Aygo, where you constantly go up and down in the gears in the city, putting stress on the transmission. Where as having a bigger PSU is more like having a middleclass car that you instead run on the country roads on a stable low to mid RPM. The end result, is a smoother ride and longer lasting ride (more years of use), and if you have to, a more clean acceleration meaning a more fun game experience.
A good brand is usually enough to ensure quality, but not always. I suggest on top of that mentioning that you also pick their mid to top line of models. Some big brands with good reputation, have really bad lower models that you want to stay away from. They might work for most people. But they don't always represent the brand very well.
I also have to mention that you have to take into consideration, the quality of your VRM's on your motherboard. So if your motherboard is known having power problems with higher model CPU's, then don't take the minimum amount or recommended watts. Go with a little more, and make sure it is a good brand with a semi high model. Just like the new x570 MSI boards that are the cheapest, there is a reason why they are so cheap (VRM), so in this type of case you don't want to save on the PSU.
I remember back in the days when I bought a no brand cheap PSU even with a high wattage. They would usually only last 2-5 years, sometimes up to 8 years. My last 2 corsair PSU that are only highest low model and mid/mid model, lasted me 10 and 14 years. And I don't even think that Corsair are the very best, they are just one of the best brands of maybe 5 in total. So you also have to take that into consideration price wise. When you go with a bad PSU, it is like driving a small car with a worn down clutch, not fun at all.
my antec 650 watt is 10 years old. i'm amazed its still running on a i5 9400f and a gtx 1070. with no power hick ups...yet.
Dont say yet when you have had it for 10 years. It will last 10 more
Im' still using Crosair VX450 from 2008, only had to replace a fan after about 7 yeras.
I have a Be Quiet! 750w, Standart 80 plus, since 2011, and its totally working right now with an i7 8700k and a Gtx 1080
I have an old 13 year old Antec Truepower 500w, it works flawlessly. It even is made by Seasonic.
*yet
The fact that he stressed the system with 3d applications for more than 7 hours and put "No 3D applications or rendering" in the PSU calculator really bothers me.
Well, he is BASIC
Don't worry girl pants you're probably over it by now.
@@gavmedia5674 I'm so offended, boo hoo
that option is only meant to calculate your power consumption per year, and not the wattage demand, so it makes no difference
people who do this kind of stuff and review pc parts are the best people on youtube they are so underrated u earned my sub
Had a cheap no-name and uncoated 450W PSU coupled with a 1080 and an i5, external soundcard, 7TB of HDD and SSD (4 in total).
Lasted 4 years. Then all the electricity went out upon switching on the computer.
Swapped the PSU. Suddenly my PC was running silent and my temps were 15°C lower. 😅
@ Well, that's why you don't buy a cheap PSU I guess.
Been running 3950X + nh-d15 (with PBO), 64GB ram, 5700XT, 2 Nvme, 2 SSD, 2 HDD, 1 DVD, 7 case fans, 8 + USB all on a 750W PSU.
"Cheap power supply for a MiD rAnGe buILd"
I’m guessing that the psu itself is for a midrange build and the build he’s using it on isn’t midrange
@@threefourfivesix Is Marc truly that dumb?
@@richardlenaghen7403 misunderstanding but slight possibility you are correct
@@threefourfivesix maybe a mid to high range is 2 Titan X cards and a gift wrapped 2080 for a niece.
@@richardlenaghen7403 I can tell that you have not understood and/or probably disregarded my first comment entirely proving you to be as stupid or even dumber then him
That intro melody, perfect timing this time... "let's drop that down 21 watts, and see if it runs this setup"... "I wish that I was a madman"... :D
This was very interesting. I used that calculate and it's telling me a 500w should be fine even for a 16 hours. So I guess my 750w is overkill, but it was a good price also I do plan on upgrading my gpu later this year.
nah 850w psu is overkill 750w-650w best overall.
Mine says 540w is enough for an rtx 2080 super and i pick 8 hours/day. And i have a 600w psu.
This video game me chills. I felt that it would blow up any second
I have run a Vega 56 + 7700K (both heavily overclocked) on an EVGA 550W unit and had no issues whatsoever.
FPS was capped at 144.
But I have always trusted EVGA units so it was no real surprise.
Go for a quality, trusted brand and you don't need a super high power rating.
Im actualy use a r5 2600 and a rtx2060 with a 400w white Psu from evga and be fine for me, 6 hours a day of gameplay .
That’s also less than had the power draw, so yeah, you’re more than fine.
the evga psu´s are made by super flower. i´ve used 980TI SLI with an e5-2690 on X79 classified X Lavender mod, 750 Series 400Gb and about 5 Sata SSD´s with a super flower atlas 680Watt of ~2001-4
I have an coolermaster elite 500watts v.3, ill be fine with r5 2600 ans rtx 2060?
@@MatheusSilva-sl6bt yea !! Fine and eficient
@@ZeuXspec oh thanks
Pesonally, I would never buy anything less than a three phase 10KW PSU.
I find power related videos so interesting. I keep getting the idea new parts, like these new Ampere and RDNA2 cards, will need a bigger PSU but I think my Seasonic 650w will be enough.
Most quality power supplies have some design headroom, and so do the components. When my 800w PSU died I ran a spare 450w PSU past it's rating for months on end and it was fine, never got hot either. 500-520 watt power draw at wall for me. It is still a gamble, any weaknesses in your hardware and the magic smoke comes out.
id say "most quality gold rated +" have the headroom design, on cheaper psu its the other way around most of those trashy psu's cant even deliver what they are rated for. Also most workloads dont stress all components at the same time thats why you managed to run your system on 450w psu.
think 1000w 1200w PSU are a bit overkill
unless you build idk a overclocked duel 2080ti s
i think 600w is a sweet spot 750w probably max future proof
I love Tech YES -Borderline Hardware Abuse!- I mean Tech YES Experiments!
Good thing they put those safety killswitches. ;) Risk free experimenting!
when you mentioned a certain virus I just had to stop and comment, its such BS ppl are getting demonitized for saying it yet I went through 3 different mid roll ads on separate videos yesterday talking all about said virus
the funny thing is you probably wouldn't have any problems using its actual name (COVID19) or even the new "crown" virus which was what the popular name meant. I mean terminology wise people may as well be talking about the common cold (many causes of which are corona(crown) viruses).
Ah yes but as long as nobody talks about it then it's not a problem, nothing to see here, keep calm and carry on, and remember to buy that new iphone! Spend! Work! Spend more! 8)
It is indeed completely nuts. They never did this kind of nonsense for any previous outbreak. "sensitive subject", ha! Can you imagine that kind of mindset in 1939? Nah, sorry, you can't mention the advancing armies and falling bombs because some snowflakes might get upset. These days it seems like a bunch of wimps run the media world, or at least panders to them to the craziest degree. However, I don't think the virus cares about our feelings, and facts can be hard things to confront...
th-cam.com/video/rbHxeOQA1Mc/w-d-xo.html
"not allowed to talk about it" is one of the dumbest MOs of our time. The media tries to impose an Overton window so small it barely counts as a peep hole.
@@mapesdhs597 While I do agree with most of what you said, I don't think this is done to pander to snowflakes, it's done to pander to our dear chinese overlords because they can and would retaliate harder than any number of snowflakes ever could if they were upset. ;)
@@Yuzuki1337 It's a combination of both. The former do have significant influence in various political and media circles atm (doubly so educational institutions), though this year is likely to be when their meddling will at last begin to fade away.
mapesdhs . It's funny you talk about snowflakes having all this influence. They don't and never had. It's just a vocal minority that people attribute influence and power to.
It's also kinda pathetic that people refer to others as snowflakes while they too are delicate.
I'm not wearing my glasses, for a while i thought I was watching linus
You probably didnt have your hearing help too
I generally like to overbuy on a PSU.
But not in false thinking that I need that additional power, but to have it more silent, because it is not as stressed out and therefore runs cooler.
For instance, I bought two 550W PSU recently, although even the little brother with 450W would have done mighty fine (Optiplex 3020/9020 replacements).
Concerning acoustics I have been damaged by my first PC all those years ago. That thing was loud as a jet engine (literally! And that is also the reason, why I avoid Cooler Master fans) and I want my rigs to be near silent now because of that.
Dude, I am SOOO grateful for that explanation at 8:05 ... I've never seen this before and now I will be lookin out for this every time I buy a new PSU, thank you so much :)
The OEM PCs too come with lesser capacity PSU for what they cost
Looks at my EVGA 1200 80+ Platinum, it’s ok, I still love you.
I always add 20%, so looks like i need a new PSU "so thx"
A lot of the branded power supplies are all made in the same factories in China these days. Coolermaster being one of the main ones. GPU Manufactures always spec high ratings on Power Supplies because of all the inferior models out there. One of my favorite system builds was Dual R9 280x crossfire, i7 950 OC @ 3.6GHZ, 8GB RAM, SSD . It ran crossfire games on Ultra pulling 350 watts from the wall. I had a 80+ gold 550 watts installed and it didn't miss a beat.
I recently built a new PC and I chose a Seasonic Focus GX850 watt power supply.I have a gigabyte aorus b550 pro ac with wifi motherboard,an amd ryzen 5 3600x,an xfx radeon rx 580 with 8GBs,two 2TB SSD drives,a dvd burner and 5 case fans (two at the top and 3 at the front.).While most people would consider 850 watts overkill I chose the Seasonic Focus GX850 because I have been using Seasonic power supplies for years now and I find them very dependable,plus I may use a custom water cooling loop for this recent PC build but I'm not sure yet.Very good video,in my opinion it's better to have more wattage than is necessary and from a reputable power supply manufaturer instead of buying a power supply then upgrading and finding out that the power supply that you have is not enough and having to buy a new power supply.A 1000 watt power supply is way too much for the PC build that you demonstrate in your video though unless of course the owner of a PC build is planning to add dual video cards,a water cooling loop with dual water pumps and extra case fans in a full tower PC case.Thank you for the video and God bless you and your family.
"a little bit low in my standards" never thought id hear that on Tech yes :p
That shirt pattern reminds me of grandma's knitting...
this, plus a lot of people doing the opposite, cheaping out on the PSU... :D
The same bell curve, both extremes of the same misunderstanding
I was always told to get a power supply that lets you run your system at 50-60% of the rated wattage. That way the PSU isn't running like mad just to idle at the desktop. Also, the higher power output PSUs are usually more heat efficient.
*PSU FAN NOISE MATTERS TOO!!*
Look for not just quality, but a PSU with a nice fan curve. A while back I bought a 750W PSU because I calculated my system would use just under 50% of that so I bought the model where the fan stays OFF until 50% load which I don't hit... however, newer PSU's have great options such as the Corsair CX550 which is reasonably priced and the fan stays at 10dB (can't hear that) until about 225W then slowly ramps up so it's still only 20dB at 440W load... an R5-3600 + RTX2070 Super system probably uses around 300W total for typical gaming so IMO this would be a great choice!
Volts multiplied by amps equals watts.
Input (AC at wall) and output (DC) wattages are different.
@@williamlau7179 the same formula still applies for both AC and DC
Next : 3950 x+ rtx 2080 ti SLI with casing power supply
2:25 good thing friendly fire wasn’t on
Strangely enough in past there were PSUs that could offer a lot more power than their name would suggest. Some manufacturers did this so they could use a higher "80+"-rating for the power supply. For example Super Flower's "Golden Green Pro 450W" was in reality 550W unit. It remained inside "80+ Gold" standard when power usage was below 450W. After that it's efficiency would drop slightly and it would be "80+ Silver" unit effectively.
In past I tested Intel Core 2 Q6600 + 8800 GTS 640MB with 350W Fortron OEM PSU. It worked, but sounded like it would explode at any second.
I remember a young youtuber from Mexico that did something similar but worse, one or two years ago, he had a cheap psu of 450w or 400w 80+ bronze with a ryzen 7 3700x and a 2080ti that he borrowed, and amazingly that psu didn't broke down
Lmaooo!! The psu(su) wattage killed me!😭
After my 650W budget psu (corsair) died, i opted for a 850 model as i though my system needed more juice.
Waaay overkill for an i5 and 960 gpu.
bruh I use a rtx 2060super and a r5 3600 with a 550W lmaoooo
I use an 850 watt for my 2080ti and 3900x I think you need more for the i5 and 960 for sure
itll run cooler and at around 50% use, most efficient as it peaks at around 40 to 60% and drops slightly at 90% and up. So having headroom is good but planning to have the psu run at 50% avg is best.
be careful with powerboards, i have had a power board trip out my whole circuit and damage a power supply in the past to the point where it is smoking now (unusable), that power board suffice to say is no longer in action.
A 450W Corsair CX would have been the right option IMO (unless it was a k model, then 550W)
Total Watt ins't everything when it comes to PSU's
I run a Ryzen 5 3600 X and Radeon RX 5700 XT with 1 M.2, 2 2.5" SSD and 4 HDD on a 500 watt power supply. 16 GB RAM and 5 RGB fans and RGB heatsinks too. Calculations said I would be close to max, but it's been good so far. At some point I'll upgrade to like a 650, but for now it's solid.
Great point to bring up. I often use that website to guide me to a suitable psu for my builds, I also want to point out that it also gives you a full list for 5V, 12V and 3.3V calculations so you can directly compare those specs to your psu. One thing I always take in to concideration is some headroom for the degradation of the psu over time and also future component upgrades. Going from 450W to say a 500W psu can be as low as 10 bucks more some times.
Are dell’s 1060w 80+ gold any good ? I mean they are “cheap” and look decent
They were took out from old Dell workstation or tower server I guess. They are decent, most of them are made by Delta or Seasonic. Both of them are good name in PSU making scene.
@@Archmage1809 isn't dell power supply are made by great wall ?
2:21 it just hurts looking at him touching the pins
It's not going to brake if you just hold it in your hand. Smh
1:31 why u gotta slam that pc like dat on the desk bruh 😂
That a workstation not a PC my youngling
I was just about to post the same timestamp and question. That thing bounces of the table from impact lol
I had a dell XPS 420 bought in 2008 had a 420w PSU. I put 6 different GPUs into it all with higher wattage ratings than the PSU and never had a problem. That pc lasted 10 years.
You can run inadequate PSUs on a larger draw system you just run the risk of system instability, wearing the PSU out faster or making the caps explode potentially. You can also run a laptop or monitor with a lower than recommended amperage but same thing might happen- hotter higher stresses stuff usually fails faster but it’s probably fine in a pinch.
i went to school for this kind of stuff and this makes me extremely uncomfortable 💀
I sure hope "Sue Wattage" is a meme I've missed.
i was half expecting him to just plug it in, see it doesn't work and then end the video
Why? PSU has like 25% of headroom??
@@rkan2 the moment he overclocks his cpu and changes the monitor to a 2 or 4K resolution is the moment this PSU will either smoke its fuses off, or will just refuse to run.
People need to understand that people who buy enthusiast level hardware like the ones he shows mounting in his clip aren't actually buying them for casual use as he gives an impression, let alone the hardware he stressed on was built to take heavy workloads, and I would add that he actually misuses it in this clip unfortunately.
Tell me one lad with a decent budget who would pick a 2080ti with a 1080p monitor, or a lad who got himself an r9 3950x just to use it for casual work load and not even overclock it?. Hell tell me what kind of people who buy this kind of hardware who aren't at least tech savvy enthusiasts and tinkerers in the first place.
@@achu-7941 I mean... There is still plenty need for 2080ti when you have 144hz+ monitors at 1080p...
All my builds only really need between 550 to 650 watts PSU max, But i always go for a 850 80+ Gold or Platinum PSU for the extra headroom & to keep noise & heat down. Plus most PSU are most efficient at around 50% usage & a little extra power for unforeseen upgrades never hurt.
I'm licensed by the U.S. FCC for radios. I can tell you that PSUs are a strange beast and don't like being run near full load all the time. If you need 500 watts, it's better to go at least 600 watts as an example. PSU ratings are for peak and based on duty cycle, not continuous.