Get the latest in PC hardware news here: th-cam.com/video/gghsGetRV5E/w-d-xo.html GN Wireframe Mouse Mat in stock & shipping now: store.gamersnexus.net/products/gn-wireframe-mouse-mat
I'll just leave these here, because they illustrate how much power you're really gonna need. *th-cam.com/video/f-77xulkB_U/w-d-xo.html* _th-cam.com/video/iXaw70X7wb4/w-d-xo.html_
This is why we keep telling people that anything more than 24FPS can't be seen by the human eye, because every FPS takes 1 bronze W, or 0.5 gold watts.
@European Defenderman Nvidia recommendation doesn't matter at all because they count in all the garbage PSUs that can't even qualify the first 80+ rating, they just make sure that everyone will be able to run it with 750, a 650 with 80+ gold can even run 2 5700XTs, i tested it, these 1k PSUs are just market scam.
500w is not enough... just the normal cpu and gpu basically level alone would blast over 500w.. 600 to 700 would be better, but i think you shuld move to laptop or those backpack with battary as back up since it would help with the extra power draw...
Would be nice to see what happen if you ACTUALLY use a good PSU under high load, let's say use a 600W with in a real scenario for a high end system... will it shutdown? be ineficient or simply good enough? Asking because I got a 850W which may never be used unless I got a top high end CPU and GPU, which may not happen but I gave this extra headroom for future use as some of those have 10 years warranty so why not?
Your detailed comparisons like this are exactly what I need! This one especially because I was beating myself up about needing more than 650 watts or not for a 5700xt build, and now I know I dont
You don't but it´s useful. Considering the fact that PSUs last for years it's always a smart choice to buy a sightly oversized one as you will be still able to use it with your next build. In many cases the jump from 650w to 750w may cost you $20. And in the long run this will save you a bit of money, too. So, unless you are really on a tight budget, go for the next larger one.
They probably feel like they had to drop it now because less ethical sources (Linus) are ranting about how you'll need a new power supply for Ampere. Even though Nvidia has already said you won't. Gotta drive clicks.
@@ZackSNetwork Did you even watch the video? An RTX 2080 ti and a i5-10600K only pulled 404w at 1080p in Red Dead 2, I doubt you would need more than 750W for the 3090. I guess we will find out soon.
@@GarytheDean Enthusiasts tend to go over board with power supplies. My old PC had a 2080ti FE paired with a 1950x and I had a 1200w Corsair Platnium PSU. My new PC will have a 3090 FE paired with a 4960x with a 1200w Asus ROG Thor PSU. Yes I watched the video no need to be rude.
I have the same Antec psu since 2012 and it looks like i'll use it on my new build as well (until I can find an 850W Seasonic in stock anywhere in my country )
I bought a EVGA gold 750 watt PSU a little over a year ago on sale and everyone was laughing at me saying Pc's will never use that kind of wattage again. Who is laughing now?? LOL!!!
@@auntiepha8343 have you seen the video? PSU's that high were all in the most cases a overkill before.. so everyone who said it to you was right. Now, it maybe changed. Lucky nothing else.
@@zuga-3938 WTF are you talking about? Have you seen the video? A 750 watt PSU is recomended for the 3000 series card?? RIGHT?! Who said anything about luck? Thanks for making my point for me crystal clear.
@@auntiepha8343 750watt is recommended from nvidia but they even say it themselves, it depends on the whole build and can work with a lower wattage power supply. This 750 is just overkill from them. If you are able to do some math do it yourself and stop yelling kid. You can even use the 3080 if you want (320wattage) plus a low wattage cpu from a ryzen that is like 65watt + add 150w for the rest components you have and you will not even reach 550watt so you will be PERFECTLY fine even with a 600 psu. Especially for the 3070 which has like 100 less wattage use And everything before.. for example with the 2080ti.. didn't even needed 600watt, ever. So again, yes BEFORE your 750watt psu was overkill for a lot, just as everyone and always told you. No one could have seen it coming that 600-750w psu's with new cards like that could be the "optimal" range in the future so yes luck. 750 is maybe if you have a lot of extra shit and a huge water cooling system a good thing to be "safe" or if you are lazy to do the easy math about the wattage use.
@@zuga-3938 I am not a kid and you are an idiot. IF you use your PSU correctly. Then you want to overshoot your system wattage by 50% that way you actually get your GOLD rating in usage. My system now with a i7 9700k and a Strix 2070 uses over 350 watts. That's why I bought a 750 watt PSU to future prood my system. Now everyone wants a PSU like mine and they are impossible to find. You don't know how to use a a PSU PERFECTLY by your answer. You push systems to hard on the PSU but go ahead and preach dumbass. Do us both a favor and piss off.
over the last few months of binging all of gamer nexus reviews and videos i learned so much about computers and fast talkers. i now speak and hear at lightspeed!
I was planning on buying a 750W Seasonic PSU for my build - the cost difference for the 850W model was only $1, so I went with the bigger PSU which will allow for more running fanless due to the lower power draw
2017 my old Corsair 500watt ps died. So I splurged on a power supply due to peer pressur. Got the Seasonic ss-860XP 80plus platinum. In all my computer enthusiast history, (first pc was a Tandy1000, x386-20), I have never had such a stable system. And my power goes out least 2-3 times a quarter, more so in spring. It was such a good purchase, I am about to get whole new system, with the AMD5 platform. And I am going to buy a much cheaper 500watt ps new to leave with old system. The Seasonic is moving to the new rig, even though its 6 years old (12 yr warranty). Like my grand pappy used to say, you should never go cheap on your boots or your bed. Because if you're not in one, you're in the other. or something.....
@@ckmoore101 Do you mind sharing what your "stable system" is, cpu, gpu and all? I'm torn on whether I should get a new psu when i upgrade so it'd be helpful if you shared your system as a reference point (how much headroom in watts should I give for the PC to feel stable?). Much appreciated.
@@kagekun7689 you're a funny one. imagine being so full of people that you can't both give them praise and critique. well, it sounds like you don't have to imagine that.
The lack of low wattage PSUs is crazy when you do a non-gaming build. I recorded my dad's PC as maxing out under 30W from the wall. It has a 400W Bronze PSU because it was the cheapest quality ATX PSU I could find. I would have loved a power brick or otherwise small/non-ATX mount but it would have added at least 50% the price onto the build for something that was ok to be ugly & bulky.
my server only pulls 100W, using a seasonic 430watt psu for last 11 years or so. Anything that doesn't have a GPU is pretty much not going to use any power
The way ATX power supplies are made limits “quality” applications below 400W. I.e. the space, cost of components, supply chain, thermal/power efficiencies set the low limit. Also marketing wants to advertise the most they can get away with.
The fact consumer stuff starts at 400w, yet OEM's have access to supplies that range down into the low 200's for wattage (sometimes even less) really says it all in terms of what's actually required.
An internet friend of mine laughed in my face (over disc) when I told him my build and mentioned I had a 750W PSU. He told me I probably couldn't even use half my PC because it was "starved". I tried to explain to him that I test these things myself with a Kill-A-Watt outlet monitor and under load my PC barely hits 500W.
@@campkira I have a bequiet Dark Power 11 Pro Platinum PSU, it won't get much better. I'm also pretty sure this situation isn't even comparable to a laptop so I don't quite understand your point.
I was searching around the internet for hours about Power supplies and this is the most helpful one because you actually showed real usage scenarios and numbers! I'll be getting a 600 watt power supply for my build which will peak at around 200 to 300+watts
Man after I saw last GNs video on AIO positioning, my AIO was working just fine. I switched the rad upside down (front mounted) but something was already fucked up and the pump then just died and now I have to slap the rad for water to start running through the loop and the pump is whining like crazy and I can hear particles circulating in the loop. I have now decided to go for a custom loop lol.
Steve is a good power supply. I got a Steve too, very handy and fix itself. My Steve sleeps under my desk and only wakes up to drink mountain dew and eat Doritos when he isn't fixing my PC. 10/10 recommends
Something to note is that according to the official Cybernetics tests of the Seasonic PRIME Ultra 650 Titanium PSU 100% load is considered to be 650W at the output of the PSU, not at the wall, while Steve measured power consumption at the wall. The report considers 100% load to be 649.638W DC and 709.002W AC (dividing the two gives you the PSU efficiency rating of 91.627%).
came here to say that. If your System components need 500W a "500W" PSU will work 100% fine. It will draw more than 500W from your wall thought, that's where the efficiency rating comes into play. A PSU always delivers the advertised wattage to the components, it's the draw that is bigger, not the output that is smaller.
Well, most the time, not always. Some bad ones really won't do the rated number, and more importantly, a lot of PSUs can't do the rated number on one rail (eg 12V). It might say 500, but if it can only do 200 per 12V rail, you're kinda screwed with higher end GPUs. Further, we suggested a slight overbuy to keep the PSU in its peak efficiency range. You don't really want to run 500W at 500W for long, as it also becomes a noise issue.
@@GamersNexus If we take the efficiency correction, half of the configurations will be enough for an honest 450 watts. Like be quiet pure power 450. Even with oc.
Yes - I've actually been running a 3700x w/ 5700XT on a Corsair SF450 PSU (ITX build) flawlessly. Granted, the SF450 is not a budget option - paid around 95$
had a customer bring in his pc the other day, got a new psu pc wasnt turning on. as soon as i switched it on, it blew up in my face like a firecracker. toppled two shelves as i fell over.
Is it still going strong? I found that I needed at least an 850W for my 6900XT. My EVGA 850W gave out on me and so I ended up getting a 1000W Titanium from Seasonic and I am really appreciating the headroom and efficiency.
@@asplmn well, when I made this post, I didn't think there would be the crazy shortages we're having now. So I have no idea how much a 3080 will actually need it reality. The Corsair I've got is still running great though. Granted, i'm running a Asus 2070 it's definitely more than enough headroom.
I opted for a 850watt PSU when I buildt my first in 2014, I'm a happy camper with my present 3700X, AIO, 64Gb RAM four fans, 5 SSDs and a 3080 OC, seeing up to 550watts used while gaming. :)
I love how every time Steve and GN team test something, they more or less do a verbal research paper that you'd expect to find in a University Research lab
and in a world that lacks substance and talk is cheap, it is the verbal research papers which define Gamers Nexus and keep me selecting their videos before anything else.
@@frayedsanitySadly the term "tech nerd" is not without reason accompanied by things like "boring" "Stale" and "Creepy physics teacher". Its a pretty damn interesting topic, but not everyone is funny. And for these vids, nobody expects to be really hearing any jokes. They want data. xD
I've had the same 600w PSU for years over multiple CPU's. Works great, currently on a 8700k and 1080 both overclocked. no issues. My work crew all go out and buy crazy wattage PSU's for similar or even less requirements. Makes me lol.
@@andrewsmith6898 based on the rated power draw from the 3000 series cards I would say likely so. I expect the power draw would take you over the safe threshold for headroom. Looking at almost 500w with 8700k and 3000 series with a few accessories. Non oc. Overclocking would definitely be too much, AFAIK the power draws can really sky rocket with overclocking.
@@andrewsmith6898 You will likely be meeting the bear minimum for Outervision's recommendations, assuming you aren't planning to leave battlefield running 24/7. Your CPU's power draw is greater than mine. I'm planning to get a 3000 series, so I've ordered a 650W to replace my current 500W. I'm not gonna have huge amounts of headroom, but there are some weird price spikes in the 700+ range since 750W seems to be the sweet spot right now. Plus apparently I'm allowed to leave my machine running on full load 24/7 so that's cool. Of course if you really don't want to deal with setting up a power supply again, you could just settle for the 3070 and you'll be fine.
I've got a 500w now that I replaced my 1000w with... I had the 1000w PSU for many years from when I had SLI 260's (190w each if I recall). I'm hoping to get a 3070 when they arrive, so I think I'll need a better PSU at that stage.
@@GamersNexus my ax1200i, not as old, but still running since 2013 through 3 rebuilds. So that's about 7 years. Powering currently a 3950x and Titan X Pascal. and 9 SSDs internally (i've wondered what wattage they pull to begin with) although i know the Intel 750 1.2TB AIC one i have is 25 watts at full writing performance. once you get a solid psu, it is essentially eternal until forced to dump it if ATX standards changes drastically, which I don't see happening anytime soon.
I've had same PSU since Intel Core 2 Duo build , which is like 12-13 years too, but I replaced it this year because I got scared it might damage my components.
So glad gamers nexus cares about us night shifters. Giving us content to get through the long night. And something I've been wanting, to prove my point in my PSU purchase to some "smarter" friends.
Good to know my 650w psu would last me a few more upgrade generations before i need to start considering an upgrade. Thanks Steve, helpful as always :)
My 500 watt can power more Molex and Sata than my newer 650 watt. They have redesigned them since 2014 when I bought the 500 watt. Makes sense with M.2 becoming more prevalent on MBs and SATA SSDs becoming cheaper.
@@Jonny-y2k probably. Most of the other parts run off different rails. If the GPU pulls 400 you have 250 for a CPU and pretty much in a gaming load that is incredibly hard to even get close to. Watch this vid starting at 10:00 for more info: th-cam.com/video/5sIMpV7rCiw/w-d-xo.html
For my gaming rigs, I never go below 1000W Platinum. (3700X/2080Super) It's cold to the touch and the fan doesn't even come on. You reviewers never talk about the heat/noise generation as part of the complete package. Plus, due to less stress/heat, I've been able to carry them through builds. I have about 3 1000W Platinums now. Fractal Design, Seasonic, Rosewill
This is my thought about this also. With MIG welders it's called "duty cycle" how many amps can you draw and for how long before it over heats and trips off. Pushing a small psu hard is going to make it run hot, inefficiently and have a short life. I prefer at least 25 - 30% "head space" over the expected load on any electrical devices capacity such as emergency generators, inverters, solar panels and battery banks.
i had a SST-DA1000 from silver stone.. its gone thru 4 builds over 15 years... and two weeks ago just died... it had running dual 275s 680ti 980ti. single 1080ti . and allot of overclocking . few occasions dual cpu . xD max i reached was 890 watss . but with the headroom it was pretty much in its efficiency sweetspot but with modern gpus.. i whent with 850watt and a milder cpu/mobo combo
I always purchased overkill PSU's. Last week I had to purchase a smart plug to calculate the power consumption of various spots around my house. Got shocked to see that my PC (1080ti, 3600x, tons of drives, leds, etc) was consuming just 300W out of my 850W PSU. This video comes in a very appropiate time lol.
I had an 850w PSU back when it was relatively needed & still have it today. While Wattages have gotten significantly lower and people can build for ‘cheaper’ I would still recommend people get around 600w just based on the quality of components alone. Lower wattage PSUs tend to have lesser or not the highest quality components bc usually you get what you pay for. If you can find a quality >600w PSU then go for it. I’ll be keeping mine & it’ll hold me for a long time.
When it comes to efficiency, my rule of thumb is to tally up the total wattage of all components (HDD, SSD, GPU, CPU, MOBO, RAM, fans, other devices) and then multiply it by 2. Then find a PSU around that number. Usually, not always but give me a second) PSU's are more efficient at around 50% load. Higher efficiency means less heat and less wear. It also provides room for future expansions. For a more refined approach look up a suppliers PSU power efficiency curves. But, we are often talking about a 3%point difference in efficiency between 25%-50%-75% loads. 50% may be 93% efficiency, while 25% load is only 90% efficiency. That coupled with often marginal price increases also means you should take that into account. Maybe $40 more is too much. I tend to go higher as I want quiet systems, and higher wattage PSU's often have their fans turn on at higher loads. It is all just a balancing game.
@azivegu I wonder if you do the whole math... When do you break even the higher upfront cost against the yearly savings of the better efficiency? How many years to see the savings? I'm not teasing, just doing a genuine question
Having a PSU exceeding your real requirements may be a good idea if you're aiming to have a quiet system. There are good PSUs which don't run their fan until a certain threshold is reached, and, clearly, the higher the PSU's wattage (other things such as efficiency notwithstanding), the longer it works quietly.
@@EnglishPete Lol SFX market is really niche, SS does have up to 650W supplies. Seasonic engineers and makes their own PSUs. I'm just saying, Corsair might be good, but Seasonic is easily top 2 when it comes to any criterias that have any values in a PSU, and a brand you can trust. That was my point
I had to replace my psu a couple weeks ago and I actually thought about it. I hot a reasonable 500w case. Realized I never move cables anymore, so I didn't even bother with modular setup. I am happy with my purchase.
"You really don't need a 1000w..." Unless you pamper yourself silly with a PSU which doesn't bother spinning the fan. :D In all seriousness though, I agree. I'd been fine with a smaller PSU.
@@squatch545 actually it wouldnt make much of a difference if its a psu thats been made well ie the 1600xi psu in the beginning of the video that had 93% rating at 200w and the max being 96%.
@@squatch545 not necessarily. a titanium PSU at a 20% load has the same efficiency as a platinum PSU at a 50% load. and at a 10% load, a titanium PSU has the same efficiency as a gold PSU at a 50% load.
You say we are "criminally over purchasing a psu" but yet you have the AX1600i eye candy right in the video. You sir are an enabler! Now I must have it.
I ran an AX1200 on a moderate to semi-enthusiast level and it lasted for 12 years. Just replaced it with an HX1200(Platinum). Well worth the money considering all the power outages due to storms and whatever else over the years. Powered on/off usually multiple times daily over that time. The built-in protections and quality components are well worth it.
Got myself a 750w corsair rmx because the 850w variant was unreasonably more expensive. Felt a bit anxious that I had shot myself in the foot and not bought a big enough psu until I watched this. Thank you!
@Mike Edwards I agree. I rather have to much then barely enough. I've seen weird PC issues come up because the PSU was within range but still not enough.
One other thing, a higher rated power supply can ride out a power line glitch for longer. The Front End capacitors are larger. We have to put in at 1200W Supply for a 400W system to get 30mS , typical spec is 15mS , but some UPS and power transfer switches are slower than that.
Steve should have a video about how a lack of inventory of PSU's at retailers leads DIY'ers to get overkill units rather than wait 5 months to finish their builds and not a misunderstanding of the wattage needed to power their rigs.
For sure, I would rather be safe than sorry and get a 850 watt power supply with a 10 year warranty than save 50 bucks and get one that I *think* might work and won't have that warranty.
Interesting video. I'm using a 500W power supply and I already knew it was overkill, but I wanted a fully modular one and the 500W gold was cheaper than the 450W gold for some weird reason when I bought it.
I remember having a switch on the back of PSUs for 120v and 240v. That's how I fried my very first power supply... Like most charges these days most modern PSU's automatically detect the voltage now and can run on 100-240v.
In my early days, I killed my low quality, no name power supply by flicking that switch as my system was running. My heart stopped when it popped and immediately turned off.
@@samiraperi467 rtx 3080 eagle can boost pretty close to 330 from what I remember, and that's ignoring the random power spikes that still seem to occur. So I imagine the higher end 3080 models and of course 3090s will be even more ridiculous
@@Gatsu563 I've not looked much at the actual values mine hits during spikes but I can definitely believe it, since the Eagle doesn't even have a power limit slider
my EVGA G2 650w gold has certainly served me well and still will, i cant wait to get the 3080 in my system, since ive already got a 1080ti with a 2700x, im not worried in the slightest about upgrading my PSU.
@@Zell717 is it 80+ gold ? You should honestly be fine with 650watts. The 3800x is a 105w tdp chip, a few fans, harddrives, ssds will not use much wattage at all, then add a 250-300w tdp 3080, you'll have plenty of breathing room. The first thing I am doing is getting a plug in wattage reader, then running heaven benchmark over and over to get rough idea of usage. I would very much doubt it would even get close to 500watts.
I have two 1000W PSUs. One is an OCZ Z1000M and the other is an EVGA 1000 G2 Supernova, both are 80+Gold . I have them because I used to run twin R9 Furies on a 990FX motherboard with an FX-8350. I am one of the few that actually used the PSU as intended.
Steve, would be nice for this topic to be "revisited" especially after the fairly recent video about transient spikes on the latest GPUs (CPUs?) When I saw that some system shut down after an even brief 10ms spike, I'm concerned if the 1000W PSU for a 12700k and 12 GB 3080 will suffice. Thanks from this old man, long time viewer.
_I'm concerned if the 1000W PSU for a 12700k and 12 GB 3080 will suffice._ For what it is worth; I'm running a 10700k (OC'ed to 5.1 all core) and a 3080 strix on a 750 watt psu with zero issues.
Even the 4090 and 13900k beast with a ROG Maximus board a couple of HDD, 128GB DDR5 7200 RAM and a 380mm AIO and the requisite case fans combined draw 890w with both the CPU and GPU running 100% (stock Clocks) concurrently. 1000w for a 12700k and 3080 is plenty unless there is overclocking / custom loops and / or some other high draw components
@@TB-up4xi not being sarcastic but how do do calculate that? I've seen some videos saying I need to multiply my tdp by 1.5, which seems to be a lot. Just purchased an 850w Xpg PSU. Which I thought to be enough, According to PCPartPicker my build is around 778watts But with that weird 1.5 rule everything is out of wack going as far as to need a 100pw if I were to follow the guide line. My Build is I'm 13900k Rtx 3080 ti 64gb Ram DDR4 3600mhz (16x4) Xpg ssd 2tb HDD 2tb Do you think is enough? I'm kind of having second thoughts about the 850w but there is no returns
Rule of thumb: highest efficiency at ~50% load. That also means the power supply has enough thermal headroom at that stage to be in a happy place. The harder you run at the limit of your PSU, the hotter it's going to get which is not just lowering efficiency but increasing potential for damage. If you live in an area where it's already pretty hot, you have to deal with elevated ambient temperatures too. Respectable PSU manufacturers should provide the ambient temps during testing to come up with the graph. They also limit the temperature the components are allowed to run at to still provide this efficiency, usually 40°C which is easy to over-reach. Hotter temperatures also mean noise, as the fan kicks in. So just for noise reduction alone, you don't want to drive the PSU hard. There are more things to consider though; As far as the average joe and jane goes, slap in a GPU, two or three drives, and call it a day. However, the moment you're going to run a bit more of a sophisticated setup, the rail configuration and the individual power draw from the 12V and 5V Rails becomes interesting (3.3V is usually never an issue). If you run a ton of USB devices, and include USB expansion cards because Hubs are not an adequate solution, you will have look out for a stronger 5V Rail than usual, because all the USB Ports on your machine exclusively use 5V. Harddrives are on average split their watts two-thirds 12V and one third 5V for a 7200rpm drive (the 12V is for the motor, the 5V for the PCB). 5400 thus requires less 12V, which is why they can work with just a USB power adapter. regular Sata SSDs have a bit of a different load, just like NVME has a different load again. So for people who have an extensive Raid setup in their tower and not on a NAS, this needs to be compensated for. Many a mickle makes a muckle. Especially if you run many USB devices, and let's not talk about expansion cards. To remind everyone watching the video; the advertised Wattage in the name of a power supply is the TOTAL LOAD it can handle, and *NOT* the COMBINED RAIL POWER. Only cheap PSU manufacturers are combining all rail potentials and slap on the number, which is a recipe for damage and fire hazards. Respectable PSU brands are actually underpowering their PSU on paper. This total load means that if you have a ton of devices that draw 5V, close to the point where it chokes up your 5V Rail, the amount of 12V you can squeeze out is limited by the TOTAL LOAD the PSU is built to handle. Lastly, a good chunk of the 135mm fans on a PSU aren't up to spec. They are either too loud or their blades aren't pushing enough air. Their form factor makes it very difficult to replace with a better fan. Rather look for 140mm fans in a PSU so in the case of doubt you can swap it reliably. There are many great 140mm fans out there. As for semi-passive PSUs, where the fan only starts when you actually hit a certain thermal load; it basically means on idle and low loads, the PSU remains passively cooled. While this sounds great, you really want your PSU to be at the coolest possible at all times. If you have a fan that is dead quiet with low RPM, that's better than a semi-passive PSU. If you don't hear the difference, a fan spinning is better than a fan not spinning. Steve, I'm pretty sure you have plans for an even more indepth followup video as you improve and expand your testing methodologies :) It would be very curious to see the 12V, 5V and 3.3V load on a per-component basis in radically different setups.
rule of the thumb, 50% efficiency is a myth based off the 80+ certification, because out of the total of 4 loads they test the 50% load will be most efficient. but when looking at a 10% increase of load at a time, efficiency between 30 and 80% will stay almost linear. you can see this on reviews at for example Tomshardware and alike, who do this. A PSU doesn't significicantly drop efficiency and most are made to withstand 40-50c continued while still being able to provide a full load to the system (with the exception of cheaper units that are sometimes only rated at 25-30c). Load based fans are mostly a thing of the past, as most combine it with the internal temperature and base their fan curve off this, otherwise you'd have the fan spin up and down every second at certain loads, unless they put a cooldown into it, but this would only be properly doable with a fan curve based off temperature as well, as the load stays within the same margin in that case. something like NVME actually would run on the 3.3v, and most consumers won't use this many drives outside of a NAS, and if they do educate themselves on things first, even if you're rather unlikely to overload a 5v rail in a lot of cases the psu rating for wattage is actually less than it can handle, as most units can handle 20-40% above it, though not always clean on a continued load. otherwise your 2080 ti or vega would immediately trigger a PSU's OCP when brought under load because of it's transient peaks if a fan wasn't able to push enough air with 135mm, why would a psu not degrade heavily? if it actually wasn't able to, you'd get way too many RMA requests as most manufacturers will give 5+ years on their midrange units now, and most low end units will work with 120mm or a smaller back fan. and to be clear: FAN SWAPPING ON A PSU IS IDIOTIC UNLESS YOU KNOW EVERYTHING YOU'RE DOING. A PSU fan is specifically designed for the unit, has a chosen start-up voltage that a different fan doesn't have, most fan manufacturers don't include certain static pressure numbers to make their fans look better (Noctua is well known for this as an example) and in the end you'll get the same fancurve because of how the circuit is designed. if anything, it'll make no difference to look at the diameter of the fan, more it would to look at the fancurve. something like an RMx is semi-passive and can stay quiet for quite some time, before slowly kicking in the fan to keep it at a decent temperature. if you do this wrong, you get things like what happened with some EVGA PSUs they made with Superflower, where the fan kicked in late and has to compensate this by coming in at a higher RPM, making it more noticable. always spinning is a preffered thing, but a good semi-passive unit will do just as well, if not better and for what you're looking for, you'd need something like a Tinkerforge system. I see this doable for GN to set up in the long run, but don't expect this any time soon unless a company gives out an already existing system it's kind of you to inform people, just don't give them the wrong information
@@lukesavenije9647 While it is true that you get more or less the same efficiency from 30-80%, if you had the choice to run your PSU on 80% or 50%, you should always choose 50% because less load means less waste heat, means less material degredation, means longer lifespan and the fan doesn't need to ramp up as much. So it's not really a "myth" but more of a guideline that is taking other things into account than just power efficiency. Yes, the cheapo manufacturers who are also overselling their PSUs will use lower temperatures. However, I have also found more reputable brands to sometimes slip on the spec sheet and then you read something like 25°C ambient temperatures for the test curve and be like "what?" It is very easy to get past the 40°C , especially when you live in hotter climates, and based on the components and cooling solutions the effiency curve can vary suprisingly. In that case, you'd be again better off pooling for a 50% baseline than 80% :) Yes, that's why I prefaced what I said with the average joe and jane. There are special cases (like mine, for example, which is why I have decided to chime in) where you have to take a lot into consideration when going for a power supply. When I bought my machine I couldn't find a semi-passive PSU that did the trick for me, or they were so expensive that it wasn't feasible. Nowadays it would be much better. I sadly would need a semi-passive PSU. The fan noise was fixed because I had to replace it. After moving my computer twice by car over the course of a weekend, the fan got a bad case of rattling. Therefore I had to replace it. Wasting an entire PSU only for a broken fan is nothing short of stupid. If you have half a brain, you can replace a PSU fan with 0% risk. RMAing a PSU just because of a fan is not useful in my opinion. And willingly letting the power supply degrade through excessive heat is willfully damaging components. Considering the e-waste problems we're already having, every little bit helps. It's not like I'm telling people to replace blown capacitors on their PSU in a comment section :D Usually, the wattage rating is continuous power, not peak power. Reputable brands can handle peaks just fine. That doesn't mean that PSU is rated for continuous power of that size. I didn't think I need to make a distinction about that. Who is going to buy a power supply based on peak values? While the PSU fans perform okay in their own right, doesn't mean that there is room for improvement. This is true for other parts of the industry as well. Can you run your CPU with a stock fan? Sure you can. Expect high temperatures and loud noises and because of the temperatures you can expect shorter lifespan. The same reason why aftermarket GPU coolers exist(ed). To think that a PSU fan is always the best thing in it's own right, is a bit ... too hopeful for my tastes, and from the systems I've built and observed, there is still room for improvement. The reason why I specifically mentioned the diameter is due to the reason of replacement. Look up how many standalone 135mm fans there are. Then look at how many standalone 140mm fans there are. The other case and point is; you can easily find 120mm and 140mm fans that deal with the same or more m³ of air with less noise than many of the built-in PSU fans. Sure, the PSU fan is "sufficient". But as the entire paragraph entails; "sufficient" doesn't mean it's good enough for certian individuals, or if you are exposed to the difference once. Usually you can filter for something like the Cybenetics LAMBDA decibel measurements and get an idea of how the PSU will sound in similar environments. Granted, I still think that sone should be addedto all decibel measurements, but that's a conversation for another day :) Again, semipassive is a great thing, except you live in a hot environment. Then you're better off with a continuous but more quiet fan. As mentioned, my workhorse should have had a semipassive PSU, now I'm just as happy with a better fan. semi-passive is slated for the next full build :) The case (aside from the carpet it stands on) is the biggest contributor to choking your PSU. Some cases have criminally low stands. Nothing that can't be fixed with a bit of wood or tubes put over the rubber feet, but still. So I hope you can see now how I'm not exactly giving wrong information :) I'm just looking at a broader spectrum of possibilities and edge cases that are still viable in their own right.
@@Khunvyel then tell me first... what would degrade so much faster under 30% more load? this is so much within a small margin, and with how many mis-calculate their wattages with calculators or other misused methods, it's already something I wouldn't even recommend looking too much at. it's a guideline, but it's a terrible one without taking a lot of factors out of account, resulting for many into a much poorer efficiency because they just bought an 850w for their 2600+2060 system. of course most manufacturers won't show 40c temperature ratings as their graphs, that would make them look a lot louder and make them look bad against competitors... that doesn't mean it can't handle it, and many reviewers test this, even. the only units that come close to 30c, are generally mediocre group regulated units anyways, which have other problems on it's own as well with regulation and alike (with a few exceptions like EVGA BR and Corsair CV650). IF you replace the fan by it's original, yes. totally no risk outside of people being stupid with the PSU internals and breaking their warranty for opening it because their fan started to rattle, and instead of returning went on their own journey. but then one other thing comes in. many look at the CFM to RPM curve, and will buy something like a Noctua fan for it instead of the original fan from for example Hong Hua, where it has a totally different profile, a better PQ and a different startup voltage, resulting in that the fan controller has to compensate for it with a higher RPM, if it can even keep it cool at all. with how little manufacturers publish this data, good luck doing it yourself and not screwing up completely. but feel free to ask a reviewer what he thinks, there have been many examples of Jon Gerow, Corsair's head of R&D and former reviewer to have gotten very clear about how stupid of an idea it is to do for most people. I stand by that point it's not a question of edgecases here, it's giving part of the truth, but either miswording or too limited looking. you shouldn't get a PSU to have it at 50%, you should buy one based off voltage regulation, transient response, protection set, efficiency and many more things. for most people, it's as easy as comparing and coming out at 400-450w for low end systems, ~550w at a mainstream system and 650-750w as a high-end mainstream system. above that with HEDT and multi-gpu, you start to calculate things out a bit, and there you don't expect to be able to run it at 50% anyways, since a lot of these systems can do up to 750w on the CPU alone (yes, 3175x can do this on enough cooling) is this complicated? yes is it important? also yes, there aren't really simple baselines, and the ones there are, can be flawed in some ways
A lot of PSUs are most efficient around 50-70% load so oversizing them can actually save you money over time. Also, getting a good deal on a Platinum 80+ PSU is a good idea.
yeah but as the chart for the 1600i shows the difference in efficiency between 200 watts and 7-800 watts is like 2 percent. As long as its a good power supply with decent components the price savings is going to be so small it won't matter.
This is the only useful comment, never underwatt your PC as over time, the draw will become more noticable as you add hardware/overclock things. You may think 100w is alot of headroom but it's nothing, and if your running an AMD psu hungry rig paired with a mid-high range video card, good lucking not crashing in any recent titles.
i think this applies for people who just buy a pc and aren't going to upgrade their pc for many years or oc their system. in my case i got a 850w even though all i needed was a 750w psu, mainly did it for future gpu upgrade so i wouldn't have to also buy another psu.
I've been using the same Corsair VX 550 for at least 10 years now. It's seen three processors, five GPUs and is in its third case. I'll truly be sad on the day it finally dies.
My Corsair GS600 just packed up now after I purchased it in 2011 due to a surge in my neighborhood. Almost made it to 10 years, will definitely get another corsair. Brilliant PSUs!
I've never had a power supply die, surprisingly. I think my Zalman ZM-700SV is at 7 years. I've also got an Aywun A1 Megapower Pro 750W at 10 years and a Thermaltake RX550 at 13 years. I'm only just retiring the Zalman unit now from full-time service in favor of a be quiet! Straight Power 11 650W Platinum unit. Great to finally get my first modular power supply.
My Rosewell 630watt PSU was bought new in 2009 it, and the rosewell case, have been in use since then. going from a fx6100 to a ryzen 3600 and a HD6670 to a 5700xt.
honestly the only thing that matters about the psu is that it’s fully modular so I can pick and choose which of my rgb fans I would want to plug into it
TL;DW: choose a PSU with 80 Plus Gold or better, look at the efficiency curve, check your system's power draw, buy the PSU where the efficiency curve is as high as possible on your power draw. Example: PSU with 1000W with a efficiency curve of 80% at 100W, 90% at 500W and 85% at 1000W. If your system usually draws 400~500W, that's a good PSU for you, because it's going to be more efficient, save money over time and give you some room to upgrade if need ever be.
@jt thorsson What does regular upgrades mean? I had a 1080ti and a 3700x before. 650w 80+ gold is doing fine both before and after i upgraded my GPU to 3080. Still not using full power, still getting 90% efficiency. You are correct that don't cheap out on PSU. But if 3080 is the only GPU in your system, then doesn't matter if you have i9 or ryzen 9 a good brand 650w 80+ is more than enough for 3080 and a mainstream CPU. I check hardwareinfo and my wattage is not even hitting 550w. Still have the headroom.
@jt thorsson CPU OC to 4.2GHZ, GPU OC +50Clock/+400Memory. Only using 500w at 100% blender load. 1 nvme PCIE 4.0 one sata one usb 3.0ssd plus a usb 3.0 portable HDD. No pcie express card. Wattage measured using AIDA64. I know it sits at 90% eff because my PSU is rm650x from corsair and the corsair graph shows that at around 500w the eff will be 91%.
@jt thorsson You can put my specs into this newegg tool website. 3700x 32gb ddr4 3080 ATX mobo with 1TB+ SSD. The recommended PSU wattage is 498 Watts. www.newegg.com/tools/power-supply-calculator/
When I built my system in '14, the goal was to make the best AutoCAD system for $2k. I went with a 750W 80+ Gold PSU because that was the minimum "acceptable" overhead for me. The life cycle is something you did not talk about, but I feel like you should have. It is common knowledge that most PSUs are most efficient at 50% load, but modern quality PSUs are so efficient that has become almost negligible in many cases. What isn't considered as often is the link between max eff and wear. If you're regularly pushing your PSU at loads > 60% and are peaking closer to 80% every time you turbo, you are going to wear down your unit appreciably faster. It's not hard to warranty a 1000w+ PSU for 10+ years because, as your tests show, they will never be pushed beyond 50%. Given enough overhead, a good PSU will outlive at least one, if not two, average upgrade cycles.
4 ปีที่แล้ว +8
750W was in stock, heard they were hard to find sometimes so I bought it. At least now I know I won't have issues
Would love to see a repeat of this video for the 3080, especially with the 5900x and 5600x which are likely to be common combinations. This video makes the 750W recommendation for the 3080 seem suspect...
I posted pretty much the same thing. If my math+guess, based on other vids, is right a 5900X + 3080 [stock] the system will probably draw less than 500W while gaming. So a really solid 750W PS should be OK at stock. I'd rather err on the side of caution though and go 850W just in case you want to OC more ... YNMV
Nvidia seem to overegg their PSU requirements. They assume the rest of the system draws about 300W (they recommend a 300W PSU for a GT 1030 which draws 30W) which if you're using Intel CPUs maybe it does but not AMD, at least for the past few generations.
Worth remembering as well when looking at efficiency ratings etc that even a 10% efficiency bump (largest gap between 80+ Bronze and Titanium) you aren't saving any significant amount of money pulling 300 watts for a couple hours a day. May be worth it when shooting for a passive psu at low load but from a financial aspect it typically is not.
Well, I was looking at some PSU''s today. The difference in price between a 750W and 850W was just €10. Given that the 750W activates the fan at 30% load, and the 850W at 35%, for €10 I could live with that extra cost.
Let's calculate some quick estimate on the safe side: Bronze vs gold power supply, let's assume 5% less power consumption for the gold compared to the bronze. If you use your computer 4 hours per day at an average of 300W. How many years will it take to earn back the 30$ more for a gold vs bronze power supply? 300W x 5% x 4 x 360 = power saved per year = 21,6 kWh Now price per kWh can vary a lot depending on where you live, but let's take 15 cents per kWh => 9 years If price is at something like 25 cents per kWh => 5,5 year
Oh, come on, chastising people for overbuying while testing power consumption at the wall and adding generously to the thus collected readings while completely disregarding that the PSU ratings refer to the load on the output side of the PSU? If you have a reading of 500W at the wall, the PSU is outputting only ~475W given its internal efficiency. Why would you say you need a 650-700W PSU in this case? @4:15
what the dude before me said as well as max wattage provided by psu's dropping with age. He also mentioned in the video that those components were not overclocked so if you plan to overclock at some point during the life of the system, it's better to account for it in the beginning.
One thing I think contributes to this is PC power consumption calculators. I’ve noticed that any time a power consumption calculator provided by any website that sells power supplies they estimates much higher power requirements than free standing calculators. Looking at you, Newegg
I'm a fan of the 750-850 watt PSU's the beautiful things about having a high efficiency and not drawing more then 500 watts is the life span of the PSU keeps it through many builds. Long gone are the days of the quad GPUs that were drawing 250+ watts a card. The way they calculate wattage over each rail is probably more important then the actual max output of the PSU
So something I haven't really seen good data on is mechanical hard drives. I tend to run a few large capacity drives for working raw video/photo projects. And then a couple SSD's for games/boot. Is it safe to assume 10 watts per mechanical drive?
Hard drives definitely take some power. It's been a long time since I've tested HDD power consumption, so I'd just be googling it. Sorry that we don't have a recent answer for you!
Even assuming 20watts per HDD(it's less than that for sure) and 10watts per SSD a standard system is probably only adding 30-60watts. 5 drive array? Maybe 60-100 watts max. Not much when compared to basic system power.
According to the datasheets, the WD Red 10TB drives I have (WD100EFAX) use 3W at idle and 5.7W at load. There's a second version of this same drive (WD101EFAX) that uses 4.6W at idle and 8.4W at load. The highest WD Red is 8TB model which is 8.8W. I also have some older Toshiba 3TB which are 5W at idle and 6W at load. But I'm sure there's less efficient ones from years earlier which might be as high as 10W, especially if they are 7200RPM. I would agree that it's safe to assume that they shouldn't be anymore than 10 watts per drive. Unless it's a really old dodgy one. SSD's like Samsung EVO use less than 1W at idle and between 4W (SATA) and 6W (m.2) under load.
Wow, planning a 10 series intel and 2080 super update to my rig. 'Assumed' I would need to kick my 650 Carsair to the curb ... but no, I still got almost 200 watt headroom. Well ... I just saved a couple Hundred ... Thanks dude.
@@PitboyHarmony1 it's going to cost around a 2080 super and destroy it. I don't see how you could justify going 2080 super if you haven't upgraded yet. Basically like throwing half your money down the drain.
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We will see tomorrow let's see how bad the process are 🤯😩
Can you do a benchmark video on DAW's (Digital Audio Workstations)?
Why is there no amd apu version of the Xbox one series x surface laptops?
I'll just leave these here, because they illustrate how much power you're really gonna need. *th-cam.com/video/f-77xulkB_U/w-d-xo.html* _th-cam.com/video/iXaw70X7wb4/w-d-xo.html_
Will you run this test again with the new components this fall?
the human eye can only see 450 watts in bronze colors so anything more than that is overkill.
This is why we keep telling people that anything more than 24FPS can't be seen by the human eye, because every FPS takes 1 bronze W, or 0.5 gold watts.
Interestingly looks like many people have this configuration ;), I have a white 80+ corsair one
@@GamersNexus that thumbnail though 👌🏻😂
@@timno9804 LoL he's about to hit it with an electric charge 😂
Bruh this comment is gold. Gamers Nexus should do a wrap up of the best shade from the comments at the end of the year 😂😂😂
This is easy, you need 500W for the actual computer and addition 1300W for fans and RGB lighting. 2000W is overkill.
The super rare fully stocked PC-011 Dynamic has entered the chat
@European Defenderman Nvidia recommendation doesn't matter at all because they count in all the garbage PSUs that can't even qualify the first 80+ rating, they just make sure that everyone will be able to run it with 750, a 650 with 80+ gold can even run 2 5700XTs, i tested it, these 1k PSUs are just market scam.
They had us in the first half, not gonna lie.
500w is not enough... just the normal cpu and gpu basically level alone would blast over 500w.. 600 to 700 would be better, but i think you shuld move to laptop or those backpack with battary as back up since it would help with the extra power draw...
I'm not sure I understand. I've got my PC, I bought some fan and RGB upgrades and now you are telling me I need to install some overkill too?
Amount of watts doesn't matter, what really matters is if it has RGB
Lmao
It's actually really important to buy a 1600W PSU with 1400W feeding the RGB and 200W for the computer.
Indeed
Moar watts moar RGB
@@Lorten369 quite
Would be interesting to see an updated version of this next year (2023), once all/most of the new cpus and gpus have been released.
Yes, absolutely. New Components like DDR5 - albeit not very power intensive - have been added as well. So a newly painted picture would be great!
@@Leonardo-wn2fp DDR5 consumes less power than DDR4 actually, but the amount is very small to begin with.
@@AlexanderMichelson Thanks! Good to know :)
Would be nice to see what happen if you ACTUALLY use a good PSU under high load, let's say use a 600W with in a real scenario for a high end system... will it shutdown? be ineficient or simply good enough? Asking because I got a 850W which may never be used unless I got a top high end CPU and GPU, which may not happen but I gave this extra headroom for future use as some of those have 10 years warranty so why not?
Just subtract the power usage from this video.
No wonder power supplies are so expensive, Steve has them all.
hahaha
Bruv
no, its greedy companies that hiked up prices by making up stories.
@@BobRooney290 No, it's Steve!
Would you look at that, I was just shopping for a psu for my pc. Perfect timing as always
Same - I almost bought one this weekend but held off for no reason other than, "Eh... maybe I'll get one later." I am so glad I waited!
Same and I was waiting for the rtx 3090 release
Im going to get a 1000w I guess is okay for a i9 10900k and a Rtx 3090
@@xSUICIDExlll overkill bruh.
what you guys think the best watts for a power supply
This is why I love GN. Always answering questions I wanted to know but didn’t know how to ask
mike h If only everybody in the world were as cynical as you, it would be so much better huh?
@mike h uh?
How to ask how many watts you need: -How many watts do I need?
You're welcome.
Got a RM550X this, should be enough (I hope) for a Zen3 4600 + RTX 3600
Your detailed comparisons like this are exactly what I need! This one especially because I was beating myself up about needing more than 650 watts or not for a 5700xt build, and now I know I dont
You don't but it´s useful. Considering the fact that PSUs last for years it's always a smart choice to buy a sightly oversized one as you will be still able to use it with your next build. In many cases the jump from 650w to 750w may cost you $20. And in the long run this will save you a bit of money, too. So, unless you are really on a tight budget, go for the next larger one.
I have been running a 5700XT on 500w since it came out. People always think they need more for some reason.
@@farmeunit me too, everything is good
As long as you're not thinking about a 4090 with the 600 watt wire. 😆
@@farmeunit I’ve been running a 6600xt with a ryzen 5 5600x on a 550 w for months lol
Why would I need a power supply inside my computer? That's what the wall outlet is for
120V straight into the CPU! Talk about overclocking!
😂
Gamers Nexus 220v in China!
I think that's called a toaster
if you want a brownout to happen or make a pseudo-bomb, then I wont stop you lmao
This drops right before the ampere announcement... great timing!
what a coincidence :)
They probably feel like they had to drop it now because less ethical sources (Linus) are ranting about how you'll need a new power supply for Ampere. Even though Nvidia has already said you won't. Gotta drive clicks.
@@dcviper985 People are exaggerating lol either way a person buying a RTX 3090 should have more than a 750w PSU anyway.
@@ZackSNetwork Did you even watch the video? An RTX 2080 ti and a i5-10600K only pulled 404w at 1080p in Red Dead 2, I doubt you would need more than 750W for the 3090. I guess we will find out soon.
@@GarytheDean Enthusiasts tend to go over board with power supplies. My old PC had a 2080ti FE paired with a 1950x and I had a 1200w Corsair Platnium PSU. My new PC will have a 3090 FE paired with a 4960x with a 1200w Asus ROG Thor PSU. Yes I watched the video no need to be rude.
2025: "I think 2x 1600W seems like the sweet spot." RTX 5095Ti owner.
"waits 2 years to get the 5095Ti in stock"
@sneaky sneaky nah even longer
@@shadyroot4172 You mean 2 years camping in front of the store?
Inb4 RTX² 10060
Imagine lol
Thumbnail on this is on point. It's like the cover for an 80's metal album.
2020 W, thanks for putting it in the title!
I'm going to become rich selling anti-static cat collars to tech TH-camrs.
I know you're kidding but you give them to TH-camrs and sell them to viewers.
Steve will take 7, one for every day of the week for himself and one for his ceo ;p
Hi Verge
Furries will wear them for their build instead of the wrist straps.
@@MerpSquirrel building a pc in a furrie-suit sounds like a pretty cool challenge. Sounds like something Kyle should try xD
Snowflake recommends a PSU with at least 2 hamsters inside to generate enough power.
4 hamsters is too much and not efficient.
But the 4 hamster one would give Snowflake 2 snacks
3 hamsters is the bare minimum. If you forget to feed them then the 2 strongest will survive, if you catch my drift....
is that why my cat sleeps behind my PC next to the PSU vent?
@@liaminwales possibly. With cats you'll never know as they are always planning your death.
@@beerfish109 cat did pull first blood!
“Don't push it or I'll give you a war you won't believe.”
from Rambo or a cat
"Every 18 months, PSUs double in power. And size. And price."
moors lore
more law effect hit power supply unit now... amazing year
I have the same Antec psu since 2012 and it looks like i'll use it on my new build as well (until I can find an 850W Seasonic in stock anywhere in my country )
@@quasur57 The card says moops!
nope, just price.
Gamers: What are all these extra watts for?
Nvidia: It's a surprise tool that will help us later
I bought a EVGA gold 750 watt PSU a little over a year ago on sale and everyone was laughing at me saying Pc's will never use that kind of wattage again. Who is laughing now?? LOL!!!
@@auntiepha8343 have you seen the video? PSU's that high were all in the most cases a overkill before.. so everyone who said it to you was right. Now, it maybe changed. Lucky nothing else.
@@zuga-3938 WTF are you talking about? Have you seen the video? A 750 watt PSU is recomended for the 3000 series card?? RIGHT?! Who said anything about luck? Thanks for making my point for me crystal clear.
@@auntiepha8343 750watt is recommended from nvidia but they even say it themselves, it depends on the whole build and can work with a lower wattage power supply. This 750 is just overkill from them. If you are able to do some math do it yourself and stop yelling kid. You can even use the 3080 if you want (320wattage) plus a low wattage cpu from a ryzen that is like 65watt + add 150w for the rest components you have and you will not even reach 550watt so you will be PERFECTLY fine even with a 600 psu. Especially for the 3070 which has like 100 less wattage use
And everything before.. for example with the 2080ti.. didn't even needed 600watt, ever. So again, yes BEFORE your 750watt psu was overkill for a lot, just as everyone and always told you. No one could have seen it coming that 600-750w psu's with new cards like that could be the "optimal" range in the future so yes luck. 750 is maybe if you have a lot of extra shit and a huge water cooling system a good thing to be "safe" or if you are lazy to do the easy math about the wattage use.
@@zuga-3938 I am not a kid and you are an idiot. IF you use your PSU correctly. Then you want to overshoot your system wattage by 50% that way you actually get your GOLD rating in usage. My system now with a i7 9700k and a Strix 2070 uses over 350 watts. That's why I bought a 750 watt PSU to future prood my system. Now everyone wants a PSU like mine and they are impossible to find. You don't know how to use a a PSU PERFECTLY by your answer. You push systems to hard on the PSU but go ahead and preach dumbass. Do us both a favor and piss off.
Steve
-The Power Supply
You've finally revealed the name of your band.
Featuring classics such as "UNLIMITED POWER", "1.21 JIGGAWATTS", and "God of -Hammers- Thunder"
over the last few months of binging all of gamer nexus reviews and videos i learned so much about computers and fast talkers. i now speak and hear at lightspeed!
Fellow underrated comment, here's my recognition!
I was planning on buying a 750W Seasonic PSU for my build - the cost difference for the 850W model was only $1, so I went with the bigger PSU which will allow for more running fanless due to the lower power draw
2017 my old Corsair 500watt ps died. So I splurged on a power supply due to peer pressur. Got the Seasonic ss-860XP 80plus platinum. In all my computer enthusiast history, (first pc was a Tandy1000, x386-20), I have never had such a stable system. And my power goes out least 2-3 times a quarter, more so in spring. It was such a good purchase, I am about to get whole new system, with the AMD5 platform. And I am going to buy a much cheaper 500watt ps new to leave with old system. The Seasonic is moving to the new rig, even though its 6 years old (12 yr warranty).
Like my grand pappy used to say, you should never go cheap on your boots or your bed. Because if you're not in one, you're in the other.
or something.....
@@ckmoore101 Do you mind sharing what your "stable system" is, cpu, gpu and all? I'm torn on whether I should get a new psu when i upgrade so it'd be helpful if you shared your system as a reference point (how much headroom in watts should I give for the PC to feel stable?). Much appreciated.
@@shinHis3 200W-300W extra would be super stable, I would say since many PSUs have 200W OCP as well
That being said, you don't need to spend extra
@@teapouter Thanks!
GN: this video.
Rtx 3000 series: "please allow me to introduce myself, I'm a card of wealth and taste"
This is why I scroll through comments 😂😂😂
Many will not get that reference haha nice
lol word. I had to go 850 as all the 750's were out of stock or way too expensive for the price point.
@@rkocourek1977 you going 3080?
@@alecwilliamson3041 naaaa. Maybe 4k series.
I NEED TWO THOUSAND AND TWENTY WATTS!?
CAN'T EVEN FIND A 2020W PSU
@@GamersNexus 2020watt psu? Rip. 5km blast radius.
@WD Forty woosh
@WD Forty Laughs in 230 V.
@UCuUcRtm9BZ7X-Sb1o1m1aPA I got a 3000w kettle
5:25 "This power supply is a good one"
Steve makes a video about not wasting money on power supplies, pulls out "Steve" the BIG unit
Its the AX 1600i STEVE edition
Linus recommended you, he said how "thorough" you are.... that word is an understatement for you sir. Me likee...
Steve Burke is the most exceptional, industry leading standard on the definition of the word thorough
@@willblizard3610 He also liker to babble ;)
@@willblizard3610 couldn't have put it better myself Will.
But then just a couple days ago criticized him on his video. Linus is a shill and a sellout
@@kagekun7689 you're a funny one. imagine being so full of people that you can't both give them praise and critique. well, it sounds like you don't have to imagine that.
The lack of low wattage PSUs is crazy when you do a non-gaming build. I recorded my dad's PC as maxing out under 30W from the wall. It has a 400W Bronze PSU because it was the cheapest quality ATX PSU I could find.
I would have loved a power brick or otherwise small/non-ATX mount but it would have added at least 50% the price onto the build for something that was ok to be ugly & bulky.
There are some PSUs for under 120 watt usage in form of an notebook power supply, which you can use for compact builds
my server only pulls 100W, using a seasonic 430watt psu for last 11 years or so. Anything that doesn't have a GPU is pretty much not going to use any power
@@grakpan1233 You're right, I wanted to make it an ultra-compact powerbrick based ITX build but it would have added 50%+ to the build cost.
The way ATX power supplies are made limits “quality” applications below 400W. I.e. the space, cost of components, supply chain, thermal/power efficiencies set the low limit. Also marketing wants to advertise the most they can get away with.
The fact consumer stuff starts at 400w, yet OEM's have access to supplies that range down into the low 200's for wattage (sometimes even less) really says it all in terms of what's actually required.
An internet friend of mine laughed in my face (over disc) when I told him my build and mentioned I had a 750W PSU. He told me I probably couldn't even use half my PC because it was "starved". I tried to explain to him that I test these things myself with a Kill-A-Watt outlet monitor and under load my PC barely hits 500W.
You must have a bangin system, because none of the systems tested in the video even reached 500w.
Who’s your idiot friend
Power consumption has dropped over time. Your friend must be thinking about the past.
Explain to your friend what PSU efficiency curve is.
Jason H agree with Jason here. Your friend may be thinking about like 8 years ago when Sandy Bridge was released. Haha
Awww. You named your PSU after yourself. Steve Jr!
No. The cat named it after its employee
@@ThylineTheGay *slave
This channel is the best channel for information about everything related to pc.
Absolutely. Steve is like a super nerdy pc scientist.
Informative, transparent and well reasoned. Absolute best channel.
I like how you guys named the AX1600i "Steve" 5:25
Because its Overkill for the Job? 😉
Oh look, my 750w PSU is in an unefficient area of it's power curve so I'll go ahead and pump the 10600k up to 5,1GHz to get it to a more healthy area!
it depend on the power source also...this is why i moved to laptop..
@@campkira I have a bequiet Dark Power 11 Pro Platinum PSU, it won't get much better. I'm also pretty sure this situation isn't even comparable to a laptop so I don't quite understand your point.
@@campkira Yes because laptops are just as good as good as desktops..
@@ThunderPantz01 love the sarcasm in this
How the 10600k does? I'm looking for a new build and undecided between the 10600k and the i9-9900k.
Snowflake is clearly naming the AX1600i "Steve"
I bet the PSU doesn't generate as much heat as humans tho.
I was searching around the internet for hours about Power supplies and this is the most helpful one because you actually showed real usage scenarios and numbers!
I'll be getting a 600 watt power supply for my build which will peak at around 200 to 300+watts
Dude this was really useful and helpful. Thanks for doing this! Your channel is so underrated!
Except it's not underrated at all, 1M+ subs is pretty high and it's famous amongst enthusiasts
@@whip-8 I'm well aware of how many subs he had when I made the comment and I still feel he deserves more for this line of work.
Thanks for the video. This helps tremendously with my sons new build. I appreciate this video more than you know. 👍
Bubbles in my AIO. Aaaaaah. I can't get over the stress of my system catching fire and melting. :)
As long as the paint isn't melting you're fine ;)
Man after I saw last GNs video on AIO positioning, my AIO was working just fine. I switched the rad upside down (front mounted) but something was already fucked up and the pump then just died and now I have to slap the rad for water to start running through the loop and the pump is whining like crazy and I can hear particles circulating in the loop. I have now decided to go for a custom loop lol.
@@andrestaieb4289 I'll sell you a Corsair H100i RGB PRO XT 240mm that I'm not using. It was only $130, I'd only say like $90 or $100 maybe.
@@andrestaieb4289 do yourself a favor and air cool and eliminate everything you just mentioned
@@Mach141 no thank you... I don't think it will have the same performance.
Steve is a good power supply. I got a Steve too, very handy and fix itself. My Steve sleeps under my desk and only wakes up to drink mountain dew and eat Doritos when he isn't fixing my PC. 10/10 recommends
Steve commendment day
I can confirm this. Except for the drink. There are some that prefers coffee.
@@lordinquisitorstefanauster846 my Steve is old school and only drinks Bawls
Something to note is that according to the official Cybernetics tests of the Seasonic PRIME Ultra 650 Titanium PSU 100% load is considered to be 650W at the output of the PSU, not at the wall, while Steve measured power consumption at the wall. The report considers 100% load to be 649.638W DC and 709.002W AC (dividing the two gives you the PSU efficiency rating of 91.627%).
came here to say that. If your System components need 500W a "500W" PSU will work 100% fine. It will draw more than 500W from your wall thought, that's where the efficiency rating comes into play. A PSU always delivers the advertised wattage to the components, it's the draw that is bigger, not the output that is smaller.
Well, most the time, not always. Some bad ones really won't do the rated number, and more importantly, a lot of PSUs can't do the rated number on one rail (eg 12V). It might say 500, but if it can only do 200 per 12V rail, you're kinda screwed with higher end GPUs. Further, we suggested a slight overbuy to keep the PSU in its peak efficiency range. You don't really want to run 500W at 500W for long, as it also becomes a noise issue.
@@GamersNexus If we take the efficiency correction, half of the configurations will be enough for an honest 450 watts. Like be quiet pure power 450. Even with oc.
Yes - I've actually been running a 3700x w/ 5700XT on a Corsair SF450 PSU (ITX build) flawlessly. Granted, the SF450 is not a budget option - paid around 95$
@@GamersNexus this was also more as a "in a perfect world". I would also suggest anyone to have 100W to spare because if IO, Fans, possibly RGB etc.
Jesus lectures us on electricity, I never thought this would happen.
The thumbnail makes it so much better XD
"For the kingdom of God is not a matter of talk but of power [consumption graphs]"
- Corinthians 4:20
Thats not me. Im you is dead. your name is Waats
This made me laugh harder than i have all week.
@DJRICKYDEEUK d
At least this isn't the 1990's where cheap PSU's meant your system blowing up at some point.
Yes it happened to me once when I was a student.
That can still happen if you buy a $20 600w power supply from some unknown chinese brand, yes, those still exist
back in the day.. you can save money buy case that come with psu... pc back then used a lot less power... nowaday.. my 500 watt never had enough...
Happened to me three years ago, and my PSU was not a $20 PSU
had a customer bring in his pc the other day, got a new psu pc wasnt turning on. as soon as i switched it on, it blew up in my face like a firecracker. toppled two shelves as i fell over.
Happened to me as a kid as well
GN: don't overbuy on wattage
Jayztwocents: MORE POWER!
Random clip of cat sniffing a CPU that's laying on the floor....ARTISTIC GENIUS!
[looks at notification bell... looks at the time] Oh whatever, computers are one third of the reasons why I've never gone to bed on time...
It's the opposite for me, I just woke up
Looks like my 650w psu will be enough for a 3080 for now. Why were we all freaking out again? Awesome video.
Is it still going strong? I found that I needed at least an 850W for my 6900XT. My EVGA 850W gave out on me and so I ended up getting a 1000W Titanium from Seasonic and I am really appreciating the headroom and efficiency.
@@asplmn well, when I made this post, I didn't think there would be the crazy shortages we're having now. So I have no idea how much a 3080 will actually need it reality. The Corsair I've got is still running great though. Granted, i'm running a Asus 2070 it's definitely more than enough headroom.
I opted for a 850watt PSU when I buildt my first in 2014, I'm a happy camper with my present 3700X, AIO, 64Gb RAM four fans, 5 SSDs and a 3080 OC, seeing up to 550watts used while gaming. :)
I love how every time Steve and GN team test something, they more or less do a verbal research paper that you'd expect to find in a University Research lab
and in a world that lacks substance and talk is cheap, it is the verbal research papers which define Gamers Nexus and keep me selecting their videos before anything else.
Yeah but the delivery is boring.
That's what we want from tech Jesus!
@@frayedsanitySadly the term "tech nerd" is not without reason accompanied by things like "boring" "Stale" and "Creepy physics teacher". Its a pretty damn interesting topic, but not everyone is funny. And for these vids, nobody expects to be really hearing any jokes. They want data. xD
@@Bossfightmedia Yup agreed ! "For the science" 😁✌✌
I've had the same 600w PSU for years over multiple CPU's. Works great, currently on a 8700k and 1080 both overclocked. no issues. My work crew all go out and buy crazy wattage PSU's for similar or even less requirements. Makes me lol.
I'm running the same cpu gpu on a 650 watt pcu. I'm wondering if I need to upgrade for a 3080.
@@andrewsmith6898 based on the rated power draw from the 3000 series cards I would say likely so. I expect the power draw would take you over the safe threshold for headroom. Looking at almost 500w with 8700k and 3000 series with a few accessories. Non oc. Overclocking would definitely be too much, AFAIK the power draws can really sky rocket with overclocking.
@@andrewsmith6898 You will likely be meeting the bear minimum for Outervision's recommendations, assuming you aren't planning to leave battlefield running 24/7.
Your CPU's power draw is greater than mine.
I'm planning to get a 3000 series, so I've ordered a 650W to replace my current 500W. I'm not gonna have huge amounts of headroom, but there are some weird price spikes in the 700+ range since 750W seems to be the sweet spot right now. Plus apparently I'm allowed to leave my machine running on full load 24/7 so that's cool. Of course if you really don't want to deal with setting up a power supply again, you could just settle for the 3070 and you'll be fine.
I've got a 500w now that I replaced my 1000w with... I had the 1000w PSU for many years from when I had SLI 260's (190w each if I recall).
I'm hoping to get a 3070 when they arrive, so I think I'll need a better PSU at that stage.
@@tin2001 I honestly think the 3000 series gpu is now warranting a bit more as they are very power hungry from what I've seen
I've had the same 1000w Coolermaster PSU for over 12 years now
That is an extremely good lifespan on that PSU. Awesome to get repeat use out of it and carry it forward -- reduces e-waste, too!
@@GamersNexus my ax1200i, not as old, but still running since 2013 through 3 rebuilds. So that's about 7 years.
Powering currently a 3950x and Titan X Pascal.
and 9 SSDs internally (i've wondered what wattage they pull to begin with)
although i know the Intel 750 1.2TB AIC one i have is 25 watts at full writing performance.
once you get a solid psu, it is essentially eternal until forced to dump it if ATX standards changes drastically, which I don't see happening anytime soon.
That thing is gonna die any day now, buddy. Most PSUs last about 8-10 years in my experience.
I've had same PSU since Intel Core 2 Duo build , which is like 12-13 years too, but I replaced it this year because I got scared it might damage my components.
I had a Seasonic Gold die after 2 years, I was flabbergasted; so if your Coolermaster has lasted 12 years, you're doing good.
Seems pretty on time, knowing what's about to happen~
Kudos GN on being there for consumers with this timely info
This has helped me a lot, I was about to spend way more than needed on a new PSU for my new CPU/GPU combo. Thank you.
So glad gamers nexus cares about us night shifters. Giving us content to get through the long night.
And something I've been wanting, to prove my point in my PSU purchase to some "smarter" friends.
Good to know my 650w psu would last me a few more upgrade generations before i need to start considering an upgrade. Thanks Steve, helpful as always :)
My 500 watt can power more Molex and Sata than my newer 650 watt. They have redesigned them since 2014 when I bought the 500 watt. Makes sense with M.2 becoming more prevalent on MBs and SATA SSDs becoming cheaper.
I have a 650w psu as well. I just hope it’s enough for a 3090 :|
@@Jonny-y2k probably. Most of the other parts run off different rails. If the GPU pulls 400 you have 250 for a CPU and pretty much in a gaming load that is incredibly hard to even get close to.
Watch this vid starting at 10:00 for more info:
th-cam.com/video/5sIMpV7rCiw/w-d-xo.html
If you can afford a $1400 graphics card, you can afford a new power supply.
@@EmergencyChannel this
For my gaming rigs, I never go below 1000W Platinum. (3700X/2080Super)
It's cold to the touch and the fan doesn't even come on.
You reviewers never talk about the heat/noise generation as part of the complete package.
Plus, due to less stress/heat, I've been able to carry them through builds.
I have about 3 1000W Platinums now. Fractal Design, Seasonic, Rosewill
This is my thought about this also. With MIG welders it's called "duty cycle" how many amps can you draw and for how long before it over heats and trips off. Pushing a small psu hard is going to make it run hot, inefficiently and have a short life. I prefer at least 25 - 30% "head space" over the expected load on any electrical devices capacity such as emergency generators, inverters, solar panels and battery banks.
This is a good point. I'm looking at building something with the new releases of CPUs/GPUs coming out and will have to take this into consideration.
i had a SST-DA1000 from silver stone.. its gone thru 4 builds over 15 years... and two weeks ago just died... it had running dual 275s 680ti 980ti. single 1080ti . and allot of overclocking . few occasions dual cpu . xD max i reached was 890 watss . but with the headroom it was pretty much in its efficiency sweetspot but with modern gpus.. i whent with 850watt and a milder cpu/mobo combo
I just love how Steve said a 250w cpu wouldn't really be a thing and then youtube suggested the 13th Gen Intel video right after 😂
Yeah, cracked me up when he said “250w would be an unreasonable scenario.” Reminded me of the old 16kb of RAM meme.
Getting a threadripper, wish me luck
I just want you to know that you've gamed TH-cam's ad algorithm so that I'm getting a cat litter banner ad on the app. I, for one, salute you.
I always purchased overkill PSU's. Last week I had to purchase a smart plug to calculate the power consumption of various spots around my house. Got shocked to see that my PC (1080ti, 3600x, tons of drives, leds, etc) was consuming just 300W out of my 850W PSU.
This video comes in a very appropiate time lol.
I had an 850w PSU back when it was relatively needed & still have it today. While Wattages have gotten significantly lower and people can build for ‘cheaper’ I would still recommend people get around 600w just based on the quality of components alone.
Lower wattage PSUs tend to have lesser or not the highest quality components bc usually you get what you pay for.
If you can find a quality >600w PSU then go for it.
I’ll be keeping mine & it’ll hold me for a long time.
@@ZambonieDude When you say a quality 600w you mean a psu that has a bunch of built in protections?
Was this under load ?
Did you test under full load? Doubt it lmao
When it comes to efficiency, my rule of thumb is to tally up the total wattage of all components (HDD, SSD, GPU, CPU, MOBO, RAM, fans, other devices) and then multiply it by 2. Then find a PSU around that number. Usually, not always but give me a second) PSU's are more efficient at around 50% load. Higher efficiency means less heat and less wear. It also provides room for future expansions.
For a more refined approach look up a suppliers PSU power efficiency curves. But, we are often talking about a 3%point difference in efficiency between 25%-50%-75% loads. 50% may be 93% efficiency, while 25% load is only 90% efficiency. That coupled with often marginal price increases also means you should take that into account. Maybe $40 more is too much. I tend to go higher as I want quiet systems, and higher wattage PSU's often have their fans turn on at higher loads. It is all just a balancing game.
So, by your calculation, a typical 3070 build will need 850, a 3080 will need 100-1200 watts and a 3090 1600W power supply?
@azivegu I wonder if you do the whole math... When do you break even the higher upfront cost against the yearly savings of the better efficiency? How many years to see the savings? I'm not teasing, just doing a genuine question
Multiplying it by 2 is a bit much
@@god1284 possibly, but PSU's are the most efficient at around 50% load. But again, it is a balancing game.
Idk man, this seems really ignorant and stupid, maybe 1/3 of extra power has some sense with bronze
Having a PSU exceeding your real requirements may be a good idea if you're aiming to have a quiet system. There are good PSUs which don't run their fan until a certain threshold is reached, and, clearly, the higher the PSU's wattage (other things such as efficiency notwithstanding), the longer it works quietly.
I got a 750 watt seasonic for my 5600x/3070 build and I’m not sure the PSU fan has ever turned on yet
with an overclock on my GPU and CPU I can smell my PSU lol
for that you're better off with a higher rated PSU, rather than more watts. Like, get a platinum or a titanium instead of a bronze one or gold
@@EnglishPete nah, Seasonic makes the best PSUs, always score the highest in all tests, plus 10 year warranty, fanless mode, quality internals etc
@@EnglishPete Lol SFX market is really niche, SS does have up to 650W supplies. Seasonic engineers and makes their own PSUs. I'm just saying, Corsair might be good, but Seasonic is easily top 2 when it comes to any criterias that have any values in a PSU, and a brand you can trust. That was my point
I had to replace my psu a couple weeks ago and I actually thought about it. I hot a reasonable 500w case. Realized I never move cables anymore, so I didn't even bother with modular setup. I am happy with my purchase.
"You really don't need a 1000w..."
Unless you pamper yourself silly with a PSU which doesn't bother spinning the fan. :D
In all seriousness though, I agree. I'd been fine with a smaller PSU.
Buying extra does help with maintaining zero RPM -- you're absolutely right with that!
@@GamersNexus But at that high of wattage, it would also mean less efficiency at lower power draw.
@@GamersNexus Seasonic fanless?
@@squatch545 actually it wouldnt make much of a difference if its a psu thats been made well ie the 1600xi psu in the beginning of the video that had 93% rating at 200w and the max being 96%.
@@squatch545 not necessarily. a titanium PSU at a 20% load has the same efficiency as a platinum PSU at a 50% load. and at a 10% load, a titanium PSU has the same efficiency as a gold PSU at a 50% load.
Omg Rtx 3000 launch today.. gamersnexus bang 💥💥💥 we are lucky to have you Steve ... Thanks much 👍
You say we are "criminally over purchasing a psu" but yet you have the AX1600i eye candy right in the video. You sir are an enabler! Now I must have it.
Can we take a moment to appreciate that thumbnail 😂
I'm not a fanboy , sorry
I ran an AX1200 on a moderate to semi-enthusiast level and it lasted for 12 years. Just replaced it with an HX1200(Platinum). Well worth the money considering all the power outages due to storms and whatever else over the years. Powered on/off usually multiple times daily over that time. The built-in protections and quality components are well worth it.
Nothing makes me happier than knowing that my PSU's fan doesn't even have to spin with the amount of load it is under.
I have the XFX XTR 650W and I've never heard the fans spin in over 4 years
My PSU has a switch, I leave the fan on intentionally to help with case exhaust. It will never turn on otherwise. 750W
Yeah,, old school PSUs ran the fan all the time. Modern systems are amazing.
Got myself a 750w corsair rmx because the 850w variant was unreasonably more expensive. Felt a bit anxious that I had shot myself in the foot and not bought a big enough psu until I watched this. Thank you!
Seeing as I'm trying to heat my house with computers I'd say at least a few thousand watts 👌
I don't have to try and heat my room with one PC!
Pc heater club too?
Yeah I have electric heat anyway so I figure I might as well use BOINC to do it
I have placed HEPA 13 cloth over all the air intakes thereby converting my PC with 1K watt PSU into a combo Air Purifier, room heater, and PC.
3080: Hold my cooling solution.
Cooling power consumption
My Hx850i's fan doesn't even turn on. With a 3080 and 9700k but both undervolted
It's not about the amount of watts, it's the friends we make along the way.
This video hasn't aged well with the RTX 30 and now 40 series and other new parts after this video came out. :)
Steve : "...so if you are runnig a cpu that takes up to - this is kjind of an unreasonable amount-250 watts"
Core i9-12900k:
labeled "STEVE" as in: coworkers stop stealing my crap
That was so helpful, thank you. I have an 850w PSU and most likely of your numbers I could have gotten a 500-600w PSU.
@Mike Edwards I agree. I rather have to much then barely enough. I've seen weird PC issues come up because the PSU was within range but still not enough.
Well since I've apparently got extra overhead wattage I should just start adding more RGB
One other thing, a higher rated power supply can ride out a power line glitch for longer. The Front End capacitors are larger. We have to put in at 1200W Supply for a 400W system to get 30mS , typical spec is 15mS , but some UPS and power transfer switches are slower than that.
Steve should have a video about how a lack of inventory of PSU's at retailers leads DIY'ers to get overkill units rather than wait 5 months to finish their builds and not a misunderstanding of the wattage needed to power their rigs.
For sure, I would rather be safe than sorry and get a 850 watt power supply with a 10 year warranty than save 50 bucks and get one that I *think* might work and won't have that warranty.
Interesting video. I'm using a 500W power supply and I already knew it was overkill, but I wanted a fully modular one and the 500W gold was cheaper than the 450W gold for some weird reason when I bought it.
GN, please do an updated video to this, with considerations for 40/7000 series cards and their power characteristics.
I remember having a switch on the back of PSUs for 120v and 240v. That's how I fried my very first power supply... Like most charges these days most modern PSU's automatically detect the voltage now and can run on 100-240v.
In my early days, I killed my low quality, no name power supply by flicking that switch as my system was running.
My heart stopped when it popped and immediately turned off.
"Getting into an unreasonable scenario, have a part that takes up to 250w..." he says not knowing the RocketLake power draw.
And then there's GPUs. Red Devil 5700XT can go to +50% power target. That's 330W, give or take, and gives maybe 2% over, say, +10% on air.
@@samiraperi467 rtx 3080 eagle can boost pretty close to 330 from what I remember, and that's ignoring the random power spikes that still seem to occur. So I imagine the higher end 3080 models and of course 3090s will be even more ridiculous
@@Aracii RTX3080 spike to 375 watts. According to Afterburner Without touching the voltage I go as high as 432 watts when allowing max 116% power
@@Gatsu563 I've not looked much at the actual values mine hits during spikes but I can definitely believe it, since the Eagle doesn't even have a power limit slider
my EVGA G2 650w gold has certainly served me well and still will, i cant wait to get the 3080 in my system, since ive already got a 1080ti with a 2700x, im not worried in the slightest about upgrading my PSU.
i have evga 650 GQ....you think 3800x + 3080 custom is ok? was thinking to get 750w but maybe 650 is ok...🤔
@@Zell717 is it 80+ gold ? You should honestly be fine with 650watts. The 3800x is a 105w tdp chip, a few fans, harddrives, ssds will not use much wattage at all, then add a 250-300w tdp 3080, you'll have plenty of breathing room. The first thing I am doing is getting a plug in wattage reader, then running heaven benchmark over and over to get rough idea of usage. I would very much doubt it would even get close to 500watts.
@@16valveBravoSpoonz yes it's gold...thanks for the reply
I have two 1000W PSUs. One is an OCZ Z1000M and the other is an EVGA 1000 G2 Supernova, both are 80+Gold . I have them because I used to run twin R9 Furies on a 990FX motherboard with an FX-8350. I am one of the few that actually used the PSU as intended.
Steve, would be nice for this topic to be "revisited" especially after the fairly recent video about transient spikes on the latest GPUs (CPUs?)
When I saw that some system shut down after an even brief 10ms spike, I'm concerned if the 1000W PSU for a 12700k and 12 GB 3080 will suffice.
Thanks from this old man, long time viewer.
_I'm concerned if the 1000W PSU for a 12700k and 12 GB 3080 will suffice._
For what it is worth; I'm running a 10700k (OC'ed to 5.1 all core) and a 3080 strix on a 750 watt psu with zero issues.
@@Kaymen1980 your account is very helpful! thanks
Literally just happened to me and I'm wonder in how much higher I'll have to go. Mind you I have a 750w
Even the 4090 and 13900k beast with a ROG Maximus board a couple of HDD, 128GB DDR5 7200 RAM and a 380mm AIO and the requisite case fans combined draw 890w with both the CPU and GPU running 100% (stock Clocks) concurrently. 1000w for a 12700k and 3080 is plenty unless there is overclocking / custom loops and / or some other high draw components
@@TB-up4xi not being sarcastic but how do do calculate that?
I've seen some videos saying I need to multiply my tdp by 1.5, which seems to be a lot.
Just purchased an 850w Xpg PSU.
Which I thought to be enough,
According to PCPartPicker my build is around 778watts
But with that weird 1.5 rule everything is out of wack going as far as to need a 100pw if I were to follow the guide line.
My Build is
I'm 13900k
Rtx 3080 ti
64gb Ram DDR4 3600mhz (16x4)
Xpg ssd 2tb
HDD 2tb
Do you think is enough?
I'm kind of having second thoughts about the 850w but there is no returns
Rule of thumb: highest efficiency at ~50% load. That also means the power supply has enough thermal headroom at that stage to be in a happy place. The harder you run at the limit of your PSU, the hotter it's going to get which is not just lowering efficiency but increasing potential for damage. If you live in an area where it's already pretty hot, you have to deal with elevated ambient temperatures too. Respectable PSU manufacturers should provide the ambient temps during testing to come up with the graph. They also limit the temperature the components are allowed to run at to still provide this efficiency, usually 40°C which is easy to over-reach. Hotter temperatures also mean noise, as the fan kicks in. So just for noise reduction alone, you don't want to drive the PSU hard. There are more things to consider though;
As far as the average joe and jane goes, slap in a GPU, two or three drives, and call it a day.
However, the moment you're going to run a bit more of a sophisticated setup, the rail configuration and the individual power draw from the 12V and 5V Rails becomes interesting (3.3V is usually never an issue). If you run a ton of USB devices, and include USB expansion cards because Hubs are not an adequate solution, you will have look out for a stronger 5V Rail than usual, because all the USB Ports on your machine exclusively use 5V.
Harddrives are on average split their watts two-thirds 12V and one third 5V for a 7200rpm drive (the 12V is for the motor, the 5V for the PCB). 5400 thus requires less 12V, which is why they can work with just a USB power adapter. regular Sata SSDs have a bit of a different load, just like NVME has a different load again. So for people who have an extensive Raid setup in their tower and not on a NAS, this needs to be compensated for. Many a mickle makes a muckle. Especially if you run many USB devices, and let's not talk about expansion cards.
To remind everyone watching the video; the advertised Wattage in the name of a power supply is the TOTAL LOAD it can handle, and *NOT* the COMBINED RAIL POWER.
Only cheap PSU manufacturers are combining all rail potentials and slap on the number, which is a recipe for damage and fire hazards. Respectable PSU brands are actually underpowering their PSU on paper. This total load means that if you have a ton of devices that draw 5V, close to the point where it chokes up your 5V Rail, the amount of 12V you can squeeze out is limited by the TOTAL LOAD the PSU is built to handle.
Lastly, a good chunk of the 135mm fans on a PSU aren't up to spec. They are either too loud or their blades aren't pushing enough air. Their form factor makes it very difficult to replace with a better fan. Rather look for 140mm fans in a PSU so in the case of doubt you can swap it reliably. There are many great 140mm fans out there.
As for semi-passive PSUs, where the fan only starts when you actually hit a certain thermal load; it basically means on idle and low loads, the PSU remains passively cooled. While this sounds great, you really want your PSU to be at the coolest possible at all times. If you have a fan that is dead quiet with low RPM, that's better than a semi-passive PSU. If you don't hear the difference, a fan spinning is better than a fan not spinning.
Steve, I'm pretty sure you have plans for an even more indepth followup video as you improve and expand your testing methodologies :) It would be very curious to see the 12V, 5V and 3.3V load on a per-component basis in radically different setups.
This is great information, thanks.
rule of the thumb, 50% efficiency is a myth based off the 80+ certification, because out of the total of 4 loads they test the 50% load will be most efficient. but when looking at a 10% increase of load at a time, efficiency between 30 and 80% will stay almost linear. you can see this on reviews at for example Tomshardware and alike, who do this. A PSU doesn't significicantly drop efficiency and most are made to withstand 40-50c continued while still being able to provide a full load to the system (with the exception of cheaper units that are sometimes only rated at 25-30c). Load based fans are mostly a thing of the past, as most combine it with the internal temperature and base their fan curve off this, otherwise you'd have the fan spin up and down every second at certain loads, unless they put a cooldown into it, but this would only be properly doable with a fan curve based off temperature as well, as the load stays within the same margin in that case.
something like NVME actually would run on the 3.3v, and most consumers won't use this many drives outside of a NAS, and if they do educate themselves on things first, even if you're rather unlikely to overload a 5v rail in a lot of cases
the psu rating for wattage is actually less than it can handle, as most units can handle 20-40% above it, though not always clean on a continued load. otherwise your 2080 ti or vega would immediately trigger a PSU's OCP when brought under load because of it's transient peaks
if a fan wasn't able to push enough air with 135mm, why would a psu not degrade heavily? if it actually wasn't able to, you'd get way too many RMA requests as most manufacturers will give 5+ years on their midrange units now, and most low end units will work with 120mm or a smaller back fan. and to be clear: FAN SWAPPING ON A PSU IS IDIOTIC UNLESS YOU KNOW EVERYTHING YOU'RE DOING. A PSU fan is specifically designed for the unit, has a chosen start-up voltage that a different fan doesn't have, most fan manufacturers don't include certain static pressure numbers to make their fans look better (Noctua is well known for this as an example) and in the end you'll get the same fancurve because of how the circuit is designed. if anything, it'll make no difference to look at the diameter of the fan, more it would to look at the fancurve. something like an RMx is semi-passive and can stay quiet for quite some time, before slowly kicking in the fan to keep it at a decent temperature. if you do this wrong, you get things like what happened with some EVGA PSUs they made with Superflower, where the fan kicked in late and has to compensate this by coming in at a higher RPM, making it more noticable. always spinning is a preffered thing, but a good semi-passive unit will do just as well, if not better
and for what you're looking for, you'd need something like a Tinkerforge system. I see this doable for GN to set up in the long run, but don't expect this any time soon unless a company gives out an already existing system
it's kind of you to inform people, just don't give them the wrong information
@@lukesavenije9647 While it is true that you get more or less the same efficiency from 30-80%, if you had the choice to run your PSU on 80% or 50%, you should always choose 50% because less load means less waste heat, means less material degredation, means longer lifespan and the fan doesn't need to ramp up as much. So it's not really a "myth" but more of a guideline that is taking other things into account than just power efficiency.
Yes, the cheapo manufacturers who are also overselling their PSUs will use lower temperatures. However, I have also found more reputable brands to sometimes slip on the spec sheet and then you read something like 25°C ambient temperatures for the test curve and be like "what?" It is very easy to get past the 40°C , especially when you live in hotter climates, and based on the components and cooling solutions the effiency curve can vary suprisingly. In that case, you'd be again better off pooling for a 50% baseline than 80% :)
Yes, that's why I prefaced what I said with the average joe and jane. There are special cases (like mine, for example, which is why I have decided to chime in) where you have to take a lot into consideration when going for a power supply. When I bought my machine I couldn't find a semi-passive PSU that did the trick for me, or they were so expensive that it wasn't feasible. Nowadays it would be much better. I sadly would need a semi-passive PSU. The fan noise was fixed because I had to replace it. After moving my computer twice by car over the course of a weekend, the fan got a bad case of rattling. Therefore I had to replace it. Wasting an entire PSU only for a broken fan is nothing short of stupid. If you have half a brain, you can replace a PSU fan with 0% risk. RMAing a PSU just because of a fan is not useful in my opinion. And willingly letting the power supply degrade through excessive heat is willfully damaging components. Considering the e-waste problems we're already having, every little bit helps. It's not like I'm telling people to replace blown capacitors on their PSU in a comment section :D
Usually, the wattage rating is continuous power, not peak power. Reputable brands can handle peaks just fine. That doesn't mean that PSU is rated for continuous power of that size. I didn't think I need to make a distinction about that. Who is going to buy a power supply based on peak values?
While the PSU fans perform okay in their own right, doesn't mean that there is room for improvement. This is true for other parts of the industry as well. Can you run your CPU with a stock fan? Sure you can. Expect high temperatures and loud noises and because of the temperatures you can expect shorter lifespan. The same reason why aftermarket GPU coolers exist(ed). To think that a PSU fan is always the best thing in it's own right, is a bit ... too hopeful for my tastes, and from the systems I've built and observed, there is still room for improvement. The reason why I specifically mentioned the diameter is due to the reason of replacement. Look up how many standalone 135mm fans there are. Then look at how many standalone 140mm fans there are. The other case and point is; you can easily find 120mm and 140mm fans that deal with the same or more m³ of air with less noise than many of the built-in PSU fans. Sure, the PSU fan is "sufficient". But as the entire paragraph entails; "sufficient" doesn't mean it's good enough for certian individuals, or if you are exposed to the difference once.
Usually you can filter for something like the Cybenetics LAMBDA decibel measurements and get an idea of how the PSU will sound in similar environments. Granted, I still think that sone should be addedto all decibel measurements, but that's a conversation for another day :)
Again, semipassive is a great thing, except you live in a hot environment. Then you're better off with a continuous but more quiet fan. As mentioned, my workhorse should have had a semipassive PSU, now I'm just as happy with a better fan. semi-passive is slated for the next full build :)
The case (aside from the carpet it stands on) is the biggest contributor to choking your PSU. Some cases have criminally low stands. Nothing that can't be fixed with a bit of wood or tubes put over the rubber feet, but still.
So I hope you can see now how I'm not exactly giving wrong information :) I'm just looking at a broader spectrum of possibilities and edge cases that are still viable in their own right.
@@Khunvyel then tell me first... what would degrade so much faster under 30% more load? this is so much within a small margin, and with how many mis-calculate their wattages with calculators or other misused methods, it's already something I wouldn't even recommend looking too much at. it's a guideline, but it's a terrible one without taking a lot of factors out of account, resulting for many into a much poorer efficiency because they just bought an 850w for their 2600+2060 system.
of course most manufacturers won't show 40c temperature ratings as their graphs, that would make them look a lot louder and make them look bad against competitors... that doesn't mean it can't handle it, and many reviewers test this, even. the only units that come close to 30c, are generally mediocre group regulated units anyways, which have other problems on it's own as well with regulation and alike (with a few exceptions like EVGA BR and Corsair CV650).
IF you replace the fan by it's original, yes. totally no risk outside of people being stupid with the PSU internals and breaking their warranty for opening it because their fan started to rattle, and instead of returning went on their own journey. but then one other thing comes in. many look at the CFM to RPM curve, and will buy something like a Noctua fan for it instead of the original fan from for example Hong Hua, where it has a totally different profile, a better PQ and a different startup voltage, resulting in that the fan controller has to compensate for it with a higher RPM, if it can even keep it cool at all. with how little manufacturers publish this data, good luck doing it yourself and not screwing up completely. but feel free to ask a reviewer what he thinks, there have been many examples of Jon Gerow, Corsair's head of R&D and former reviewer to have gotten very clear about how stupid of an idea it is to do for most people. I stand by that point
it's not a question of edgecases here, it's giving part of the truth, but either miswording or too limited looking. you shouldn't get a PSU to have it at 50%, you should buy one based off voltage regulation, transient response, protection set, efficiency and many more things. for most people, it's as easy as comparing and coming out at 400-450w for low end systems, ~550w at a mainstream system and 650-750w as a high-end mainstream system. above that with HEDT and multi-gpu, you start to calculate things out a bit, and there you don't expect to be able to run it at 50% anyways, since a lot of these systems can do up to 750w on the CPU alone (yes, 3175x can do this on enough cooling)
is this complicated? yes
is it important? also yes, there aren't really simple baselines, and the ones there are, can be flawed in some ways
A lot of PSUs are most efficient around 50-70% load so oversizing them can actually save you money over time. Also, getting a good deal on a Platinum 80+ PSU is a good idea.
yeah but as the chart for the 1600i shows the difference in efficiency between 200 watts and 7-800 watts is like 2 percent. As long as its a good power supply with decent components the price savings is going to be so small it won't matter.
@@joshbell123 If you run the system 24/7 365 even 2% adds up. The components also last longer when not pushed to their margins.
This is the only useful comment, never underwatt your PC as over time, the draw will become more noticable as you add hardware/overclock things. You may think 100w is alot of headroom but it's nothing, and if your running an AMD psu hungry rig paired with a mid-high range video card, good lucking not crashing in any recent titles.
i think this applies for people who just buy a pc and aren't going to upgrade their pc for many years or oc their system. in my case i got a 850w even though all i needed was a 750w psu, mainly did it for future gpu upgrade so i wouldn't have to also buy another psu.
At this point, the next RTX 4090 will use a dedicated 600w PSU.
John Doe Hate the game, not the player.
@Zoran I just bought a 850w for the next gen and I am still kinda afraid of it not supporting at max overclock the 3080 that Im looking to buy lol.
I've been using the same Corsair VX 550 for at least 10 years now. It's seen three processors, five GPUs and is in its third case. I'll truly be sad on the day it finally dies.
My Corsair GS600 just packed up now after I purchased it in 2011 due to a surge in my neighborhood. Almost made it to 10 years, will definitely get another corsair. Brilliant PSUs!
@@True_Blood_89 my cooler Master 600 watt is still running fine after about 12 years :)
I've never had a power supply die, surprisingly. I think my Zalman ZM-700SV is at 7 years. I've also got an Aywun A1 Megapower Pro 750W at 10 years and a Thermaltake RX550 at 13 years. I'm only just retiring the Zalman unit now from full-time service in favor of a be quiet! Straight Power 11 650W Platinum unit. Great to finally get my first modular power supply.
My Rosewell 630watt PSU was bought new in 2009 it, and the rosewell case, have been in use since then. going from a fx6100 to a ryzen 3600 and a HD6670 to a 5700xt.
@@r.k862 my cooler master 650GX bronze is still doing good after 9 years, quality of cooler master PSU is really nice
honestly the only thing that matters about the psu is that it’s fully modular
so I can pick and choose which of my rgb fans I would want to plug into it
Now I just have to figure out how to plug my RGB RAM into my PSU
exactly but probably in a few more hours we will find out
if we need a psu with a new 12 pin connector
TL;DW: choose a PSU with 80 Plus Gold or better, look at the efficiency curve, check your system's power draw, buy the PSU where the efficiency curve is as high as possible on your power draw.
Example: PSU with 1000W with a efficiency curve of 80% at 100W, 90% at 500W and 85% at 1000W. If your system usually draws 400~500W, that's a good PSU for you, because it's going to be more efficient, save money over time and give you some room to upgrade if need ever be.
GN:"How many watts do you need?"
Nvidia release 3090: "Yes"
@jt thorsson What does regular upgrades mean? I had a 1080ti and a 3700x before. 650w 80+ gold is doing fine both before and after i upgraded my GPU to 3080. Still not using full power, still getting 90% efficiency. You are correct that don't cheap out on PSU. But if 3080 is the only GPU in your system, then doesn't matter if you have i9 or ryzen 9 a good brand 650w 80+ is more than enough for 3080 and a mainstream CPU. I check hardwareinfo and my wattage is not even hitting 550w. Still have the headroom.
@jt thorsson CPU OC to 4.2GHZ, GPU OC +50Clock/+400Memory. Only using 500w at 100% blender load. 1 nvme PCIE 4.0 one sata one usb 3.0ssd plus a usb 3.0 portable HDD. No pcie express card. Wattage measured using AIDA64. I know it sits at 90% eff because my PSU is rm650x from corsair and the corsair graph shows that at around 500w the eff will be 91%.
@jt thorsson You can put my specs into this newegg tool website. 3700x 32gb ddr4 3080 ATX mobo with 1TB+ SSD. The recommended PSU wattage is 498 Watts.
www.newegg.com/tools/power-supply-calculator/
@jt thorsson what CPU do you have? kid you not the 3700x is rated for 65w while the 3800x/xt rated for 105w. They perform the same in 1440p tho?
@jt thorsson ssd usually don't draw too much power. Add ram ssd hdd rgb strips and motherboard together you will see around 200w.
When I built my system in '14, the goal was to make the best AutoCAD system for $2k. I went with a 750W 80+ Gold PSU because that was the minimum "acceptable" overhead for me. The life cycle is something you did not talk about, but I feel like you should have. It is common knowledge that most PSUs are most efficient at 50% load, but modern quality PSUs are so efficient that has become almost negligible in many cases. What isn't considered as often is the link between max eff and wear. If you're regularly pushing your PSU at loads > 60% and are peaking closer to 80% every time you turbo, you are going to wear down your unit appreciably faster. It's not hard to warranty a 1000w+ PSU for 10+ years because, as your tests show, they will never be pushed beyond 50%. Given enough overhead, a good PSU will outlive at least one, if not two, average upgrade cycles.
750W was in stock, heard they were hard to find sometimes so I bought it. At least now I know I won't have issues
Same thing with my last PS purchase.
Would love to see a repeat of this video for the 3080, especially with the 5900x and 5600x which are likely to be common combinations. This video makes the 750W recommendation for the 3080 seem suspect...
I posted pretty much the same thing. If my math+guess, based on other vids, is right a 5900X + 3080 [stock] the system will probably draw less than 500W while gaming. So a really solid 750W PS should be OK at stock. I'd rather err on the side of caution though and go 850W just in case you want to OC more ... YNMV
Agreed. I plan on going with a 5600X & 3080, I’m reconsidering purchasing a 650W now… mostly because at the time of writing this, it’s on sale.
Nvidia seem to overegg their PSU requirements. They assume the rest of the system draws about 300W (they recommend a 300W PSU for a GT 1030 which draws 30W) which if you're using Intel CPUs maybe it does but not AMD, at least for the past few generations.
@@bryanc4054 the 3080 draws a lot of power. 450-550w spikes are common. The ryzen 5000 series draws same power as the 3000 series
@@jayhsyn This is just a flatout lie.
How does gamers nexus have time to do all of these videos, edits, excel charts, website hosting, etc... what the fuck. Props
Money and a whole lot of people ... PC Jesus is not the one doing these (anymore).
Worth remembering as well when looking at efficiency ratings etc that even a 10% efficiency bump (largest gap between 80+ Bronze and Titanium) you aren't saving any significant amount of money pulling 300 watts for a couple hours a day. May be worth it when shooting for a passive psu at low load but from a financial aspect it typically is not.
Well, I was looking at some PSU''s today. The difference in price between a 750W and 850W was just €10. Given that the 750W activates the fan at 30% load, and the 850W at 35%, for €10 I could live with that extra cost.
Let's calculate some quick estimate on the safe side:
Bronze vs gold power supply, let's assume 5% less power consumption for the gold compared to the bronze.
If you use your computer 4 hours per day at an average of 300W. How many years will it take to earn back the 30$ more for a gold vs bronze power supply?
300W x 5% x 4 x 360 = power saved per year = 21,6 kWh
Now price per kWh can vary a lot depending on where you live, but let's take 15 cents per kWh
=> 9 years
If price is at something like 25 cents per kWh
=> 5,5 year
@@Robbedem Cries in California with 45 cents at peak hours.
@@wackomojoGaming If power is that expensive, you definately want to get a 80+ gold rated power supply. ;)
Oh, come on, chastising people for overbuying while testing power consumption at the wall and adding generously to the thus collected readings while completely disregarding that the PSU ratings refer to the load on the output side of the PSU?
If you have a reading of 500W at the wall, the PSU is outputting only ~475W given its internal efficiency. Why would you say you need a 650-700W PSU in this case? @4:15
what the dude before me said as well as max wattage provided by psu's dropping with age. He also mentioned in the video that those components were not overclocked so if you plan to overclock at some point during the life of the system, it's better to account for it in the beginning.
One thing I think contributes to this is PC power consumption calculators. I’ve noticed that any time a power consumption calculator provided by any website that sells power supplies they estimates much higher power requirements than free standing calculators. Looking at you, Newegg
I'm a fan of the 750-850 watt PSU's the beautiful things about having a high efficiency and not drawing more then 500 watts is the life span of the PSU keeps it through many builds. Long gone are the days of the quad GPUs that were drawing 250+ watts a card. The way they calculate wattage over each rail is probably more important then the actual max output of the PSU
Quad GPU in general especially with the GX2 was absolutely hysterically bad.
So something I haven't really seen good data on is mechanical hard drives. I tend to run a few large capacity drives for working raw video/photo projects. And then a couple SSD's for games/boot. Is it safe to assume 10 watts per mechanical drive?
Hard drives definitely take some power. It's been a long time since I've tested HDD power consumption, so I'd just be googling it. Sorry that we don't have a recent answer for you!
Even assuming 20watts per HDD(it's less than that for sure) and 10watts per SSD a standard system is probably only adding 30-60watts. 5 drive array? Maybe 60-100 watts max. Not much when compared to basic system power.
Yea 10 W is safe to assume
www.buildcomputers.net/power-consumption-of-pc-components.html
Hard drives use around 10 - 15w depending on the RPM.
According to the datasheets, the WD Red 10TB drives I have (WD100EFAX) use 3W at idle and 5.7W at load. There's a second version of this same drive (WD101EFAX) that uses 4.6W at idle and 8.4W at load. The highest WD Red is 8TB model which is 8.8W. I also have some older Toshiba 3TB which are 5W at idle and 6W at load. But I'm sure there's less efficient ones from years earlier which might be as high as 10W, especially if they are 7200RPM. I would agree that it's safe to assume that they shouldn't be anymore than 10 watts per drive. Unless it's a really old dodgy one.
SSD's like Samsung EVO use less than 1W at idle and between 4W (SATA) and 6W (m.2) under load.
Wow, planning a 10 series intel and 2080 super update to my rig.
'Assumed' I would need to kick my 650 Carsair to the curb ... but no, I still got almost 200 watt headroom.
Well ... I just saved a couple Hundred ... Thanks dude.
If you haven't done the upgrade yet the 3080 is gonna be announced in less than a day so maybe wait on that.
@@termiguin1 - Ya ... I dont need that much GPU power, and wont for the life of this build, but it was considered.
@@PitboyHarmony1 it's going to cost around a 2080 super and destroy it. I don't see how you could justify going 2080 super if you haven't upgraded yet. Basically like throwing half your money down the drain.
@@MrDutch1e Same with going Comet Lake when Zen 3 might end up equal or better in gaming. No reason to buy Intel anymore after that.
@@termiguin1 How many days ago since they started announcing the 3080 coming in a few days?