Cant tell you how helpful this vid is. There are a ton of good tips here. I need to get a 1/2 in breaker, torch, studs and gasket. Great content and well shot. Thanks
I recently had to do this again and ran into problems since it wasn't difficult the last time. I didn't use anti seize. A pipe wrench works great if the studs are stuck in. I think I was wrong in the video on the actual Torque specs of the studs. I meant the nuts. I'm looking at the service manual now, but it takes time to find stuff, it's over 7000 pages. But I think the studs are something ridiculously low Torque. Like 13 ft lbs.
Studs are barely torqued at 10.8 lbs. It's on page 1955/7330. Nuts are torqued 31.3 lbs. This is from Subaru factory service manual of 2018 Wrx and Sti. I think the exhaust stuff is the same 2015-2021.
@@epicpeaker3155 Hecksnaw that's wild how low the toque is! My bottom left one broke off and I tried to left hand drill it out and it didnt work then I got a tap and die set and drilled through it only to find out the t-handle was bumping into that belt above so I couldnt do that unless I removed the whole turbo. Now I had a combination drill and tap drill bit that will drill through it and make the threads for the hole, I do that sometime this weekend. I had applied heat to the bottome right one with a torch and it cam out easily but the top left one even with heat is giving me problems, been using a locking adjustable wrench with no success even tho the bottom right came out using it.
@ShakUltra That sucks. I had a stud break off too. Fortunately, I was able to get it out with a pipe wrench. There was enough thread left to get the pipe wrench on it. But in the process, it messed up where it went into the turbo. PITA. It took a couple of hours working a tap back and fourth through it. It was so hard, at times I thought the tap would break. I'm very sorry for your trouble. MORE TIPS - Cobb shows an order of taking off the bolts and the order for putting the bolts back on. Also it helps if once you have the first nut loose, retighten it. And do that with all the nuts in order so when you get to the last nut all the pressure isn't on the last nut. Also Grimmspeed makes a slotted top bracket I highly recommend. I drilled mine out bigger, and it was still difficult to line up. I saw that bracket online and bought it. It makes that top bracket super easy to fit on.
I'm going to stage 2 + in about a week and installing Fortune 500 coilovers, with whiteline front /rear swaybars with Cusons control arms. Can't wait to hit some turns . By the way great video.
Very nice! All extremely great choices. I've heard with the sway bars it's good to upgrade the end links also. Some people aren't fans of the Whiteline end links, but their swaybars are excellent. I'll probably get the Whiteline rear one first.
@@DanielMartinez-vw6bs No. It needs a Cobb accessport. You put the Stage 2 Cobb tune with the accessport. Or go to a protuner. The protuner uses the accessport to dyno tune your car. Also you must remove the little brass restrictor pill. There is a free OTS Stage 2 tune for the J Pipe on the accessport. If you install a catless J Pipe you MUST have your car protuned.
When I took the Jpipe off to do the headers it came off like butter. But they were new Grimmspeed studs and hadn't been exposed to even one season of winter. If you install it and leave it forever, might run into trouble and the anti seize it definitely a must. I live where there are emissions so I'll probably be taking mine off again, so I can 100% pass.
@AbelOrtega-sf8pq You can flash with the Cobb Accessport. It has the stage 2 tune preloaded in the Accessport. If you have a catless J pipe, you would need a protune or etune from a reputable tuner.
Mostly the turbo is supported by the headers. It is also connected to the inlet, charge pipe, and j-pipe. I would still use that bracket on the top of j-pipe.
There is a jack stand holding the drivers side way up in the air. I use the wood because my car is lowered on coilovers and even a low profile jack is hard to fit under it. I drive up on wood so I can fit the jack under it.
I personally wouldn't. But it would probably work. If you do, I would try it on the easy to get to nuts first. The ones that need extensions would need the perfect length extensions and I wouldn't use a swivel. Also make sure impact is in reverse and that the 6 point socket is perfectly on the nut.
That's pretty hot, but a torch is more focused. You can put the flame right on it. Use the 6 point socket and breaker bar. Spray it the day before, right up to, when you are taking them off, and while; with Liquid Wrench/PB blaster. Sometimes working it back and forth helps. Also don't take them fully out. If you can break the seal leave them in tight until you have them all broken loose.
I used the Grimmspeed turbo to J-pipe gasket. The Cobb J-pipe came with gasket to catback. Since it's a full 3inch Turboback exhaust, there are only the flat gaskets. Donuts are only used when pipe size changes.
No drone on highway. I drove from Utah to, near Mexico and back and noise was NEVER annoying. Just sounds great with the R400 and Cobb J-pipe. I once had a straight piped Civic. I did a long road trip and the drone drove me crazy. I was able to bolt the stock exhaust back to midpipe (I had a custom built exhaust). So, I know what drone is. The setup I have on the WRX is very good!
@@epicpeaker3155 thanks for the reply. Decided to get the r400 with the catted invidia j pipe. Its not resonated like the cobb so hopefully it's not to loud
Epic Peaker haha I wouldn’t have minded ;) I started this tonight and it’s impossible to get those bolts off. I PB’d it and all. I haven’t torched them tho because i started to work on it when the car was already hot from driving
@@Eagleye11700 Wait until the next day and PB them again. They'll come right out if you use - Breaker bar, 6 pt sockets, the right extensions, swivel, and the TORCH! Be careful not to burn any hoses. Torque nuts to 31.5 ft lbs or you'll get smelly leak.
Epic Peaker after much frustration, i finally got the stock pipe removed. Unfortunately i rounded 2/4 turbo nuts but replaced them with some ones they had at Lowes and just used crush washers. Did you wrap your pipe? None of the heat shield go back on according to cobbs instructions
@@Eagleye11700 No. Wrapping makes the pipe rust. You can put the heat shield back on top of the J-pipe. None of the others go back on. I've had no issues with just the one heatshield.
J-pipe or downpipe is the exhaust pipe after the turbo. The stock one is skinnier (more restrictive). So when you put a wider pipe with smoother bends and higher flowing catalytic converter on, you make more power. The motor isn't working as hard to push out the exhaust gas. Just like if you tried to suck a milk shake through one of those tiny coffee straws. If you have a bigger straw you wouldn't have to suck as hard.
Cant tell you how helpful this vid is. There are a ton of good tips here. I need to get a 1/2 in breaker, torch, studs and gasket. Great content and well shot. Thanks
I did the same R400 but with a GS v2 j pipe. You can feel it in your chest off a cold start. Sounds good!
Yes! I hear so many cars, including Wrx's that sound terrible. I believe we have chosen one of the best setups possible. 👌
Keep the content coming man .Im booked in to install the invidia j pipe and egr tgv deletes cant wait
Very Nice! I can't wait for tgv deletes, but I'm doing headers first.
About to install my Cobb DP🔥👌🏻 we running the same setup. I do have also an ETS air Intake🔥 Car sounds pretty good. Keep the good work bro
Nice! I love the ETS stuff and their products are some of the best for making power.
They are pretty much the best on the market. Keep posting more videos!!
I wish you kept in the clips of you taking the studs out. Besides that awesome video!
I recently had to do this again and ran into problems since it wasn't difficult the last time. I didn't use anti seize. A pipe wrench works great if the studs are stuck in. I think I was wrong in the video on the actual Torque specs of the studs. I meant the nuts. I'm looking at the service manual now, but it takes time to find stuff, it's over 7000 pages. But I think the studs are something ridiculously low Torque. Like 13 ft lbs.
Studs are barely torqued at 10.8 lbs. It's on page 1955/7330. Nuts are torqued 31.3 lbs. This is from Subaru factory service manual of 2018 Wrx and Sti. I think the exhaust stuff is the same 2015-2021.
@@epicpeaker3155 Hecksnaw that's wild how low the toque is! My bottom left one broke off and I tried to left hand drill it out and it didnt work then I got a tap and die set and drilled through it only to find out the t-handle was bumping into that belt above so I couldnt do that unless I removed the whole turbo. Now I had a combination drill and tap drill bit that will drill through it and make the threads for the hole, I do that sometime this weekend. I had applied heat to the bottome right one with a torch and it cam out easily but the top left one even with heat is giving me problems, been using a locking adjustable wrench with no success even tho the bottom right came out using it.
@ShakUltra That sucks. I had a stud break off too. Fortunately, I was able to get it out with a pipe wrench. There was enough thread left to get the pipe wrench on it. But in the process, it messed up where it went into the turbo. PITA. It took a couple of hours working a tap back and fourth through it. It was so hard, at times I thought the tap would break. I'm very sorry for your trouble. MORE TIPS - Cobb shows an order of taking off the bolts and the order for putting the bolts back on. Also it helps if once you have the first nut loose, retighten it. And do that with all the nuts in order so when you get to the last nut all the pressure isn't on the last nut. Also Grimmspeed makes a slotted top bracket I highly recommend. I drilled mine out bigger, and it was still difficult to line up. I saw that bracket online and bought it. It makes that top bracket super easy to fit on.
@@epicpeaker3155 Thanks for the tips! Did you rotate the tap 360 degrees? if so how with the blockage. If not how do you do that?
I'm going to stage 2 + in about a week and installing Fortune 500 coilovers, with whiteline front /rear swaybars with Cusons control arms. Can't wait to hit some turns . By the way great video.
Very nice! All extremely great choices. I've heard with the sway bars it's good to upgrade the end links also. Some people aren't fans of the Whiteline end links, but their swaybars are excellent. I'll probably get the Whiteline rear one first.
Clean job! I'm happy for you! Thanks for the video!
Thanks! Helping people makes me happy the most. And I like making videos and working on my car.
@@epicpeaker3155 I can install the j pipe in stage 1 buddy??
@@DanielMartinez-vw6bs No. It needs a Cobb accessport. You put the Stage 2 Cobb tune with the accessport. Or go to a protuner. The protuner uses the accessport to dyno tune your car. Also you must remove the little brass restrictor pill. There is a free OTS Stage 2 tune for the J Pipe on the accessport. If you install a catless J Pipe you MUST have your car protuned.
@@epicpeaker3155 thank you men I don’t want to install the Catless j pipe I want the catted one because I think is more reliable.
I would put anti-seize on the threads to protect the bolts from rusting.
When I took the Jpipe off to do the headers it came off like butter. But they were new Grimmspeed studs and hadn't been exposed to even one season of winter. If you install it and leave it forever, might run into trouble and the anti seize it definitely a must. I live where there are emissions so I'll probably be taking mine off again, so I can 100% pass.
Looking forward to when I get mine.... good job. Question, did you get it tuned at a shop for jpipe?
Not yet. I'm going to put on full tgv deletes, ebcs, headers and Cobb flex fuel. Then I'll get pro tuned!
@@epicpeaker3155 looking foward to that.. good luck
@@epicpeaker3155 Same here
What year is your wrx? Mines a 2017 wrx my question is: if I get an after market j pipe can I flash a Cobb tune ?
@AbelOrtega-sf8pq You can flash with the Cobb Accessport. It has the stage 2 tune preloaded in the Accessport. If you have a catless J pipe, you would need a protune or etune from a reputable tuner.
I just sprayed them all down and instead of full force unscrewing them i tapped them continuously til it got loose none of em broke
Good job! Sometimes they don't come out easy.
Hope u removed the restrictor pill
Check video at 7:40. It shows the restrictor pill out.
Does the turbo support bracket really do anything? The turbo is mounted on other things besides headers and jpipe right?
Mostly the turbo is supported by the headers. It is also connected to the inlet, charge pipe, and j-pipe. I would still use that bracket on the top of j-pipe.
Isn’t she lovelyyyyyy😂
Is that wood all you used to get under the car? Or is the car on an upward angle from the drive way as well?
There is a jack stand holding the drivers side way up in the air. I use the wood because my car is lowered on coilovers and even a low profile jack is hard to fit under it. I drive up on wood so I can fit the jack under it.
@@epicpeaker3155 ah! So you can get away with just lifting the drivers side?
I am also in Utah! Any shops you’d recommend for a pro tune?
Yes! Here's my protune video.
th-cam.com/video/ulG8NVasfEM/w-d-xo.html
I see everyone using hand tools. Would you suggest an impact driver if it’s accessible ?
I personally wouldn't. But it would probably work. If you do, I would try it on the easy to get to nuts first. The ones that need extensions would need the perfect length extensions and I wouldn't use a swivel. Also make sure impact is in reverse and that the 6 point socket is perfectly on the nut.
I have a heat gun that can get up to 1300 degrees will this work or should i get a torch?
That's pretty hot, but a torch is more focused. You can put the flame right on it. Use the 6 point socket and breaker bar. Spray it the day before, right up to, when you are taking them off, and while; with Liquid Wrench/PB blaster. Sometimes working it back and forth helps. Also don't take them fully out. If you can break the seal leave them in tight until you have them all broken loose.
Epic Peaker appreciate it, I seen so many videos of people breaking studs. Only mod that I am actually nervous about
Did you have to use the stock donut gasket?
I used the Grimmspeed turbo to J-pipe gasket. The Cobb J-pipe came with gasket to catback. Since it's a full 3inch Turboback exhaust, there are only the flat gaskets. Donuts are only used when pipe size changes.
Epic Peaker alright thanks
How is the drone like driving at highway speed?
No drone on highway. I drove from Utah to, near Mexico and back and noise was NEVER annoying. Just sounds great with the R400 and Cobb J-pipe. I once had a straight piped Civic. I did a long road trip and the drone drove me crazy. I was able to bolt the stock exhaust back to midpipe (I had a custom built exhaust). So, I know what drone is. The setup I have on the WRX is very good!
@@epicpeaker3155 thanks for the reply. Decided to get the r400 with the catted invidia j pipe. Its not resonated like the cobb so hopefully it's not to loud
@@Luis-ml3uz It will be good. I'm sure you will be very happy with that setup.
Any link to buy the studs?
This is the kit I got.
www.rallysportdirect.com/part/exhaust-gaskets-and-hardware/grm-007008-grimmspeed-j-pipe-hardware-kit
Get some scissors bro! That was painful to watch! Great video tho
Lol. Ya, I should have just put up a picture of a sexy babe, while I was talking.
Epic Peaker haha I wouldn’t have minded ;) I started this tonight and it’s impossible to get those bolts off. I PB’d it and all. I haven’t torched them tho because i started to work on it when the car was already hot from driving
@@Eagleye11700 Wait until the next day and PB them again. They'll come right out if you use - Breaker bar, 6 pt sockets, the right extensions, swivel, and the TORCH! Be careful not to burn any hoses. Torque nuts to 31.5 ft lbs or you'll get smelly leak.
Epic Peaker after much frustration, i finally got the stock pipe removed. Unfortunately i rounded 2/4 turbo nuts but replaced them with some ones they had at Lowes and just used crush washers. Did you wrap your pipe? None of the heat shield go back on according to cobbs instructions
@@Eagleye11700 No. Wrapping makes the pipe rust. You can put the heat shield back on top of the J-pipe. None of the others go back on. I've had no issues with just the one heatshield.
I'm looking to get a WRX and like to know what is the J-pipe and purpose? , Thanks.
J-pipe or downpipe is the exhaust pipe after the turbo. The stock one is skinnier (more restrictive). So when you put a wider pipe with smoother bends and higher flowing catalytic converter on, you make more power. The motor isn't working as hard to push out the exhaust gas. Just like if you tried to suck a milk shake through one of those tiny coffee straws. If you have a bigger straw you wouldn't have to suck as hard.
@@epicpeaker3155 Ty. Greatly appreciated.
@@epicpeaker3155 or if you go cattless you've got a bit more power with more air flow but risk getting boost creep