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Yes! I hear so many cars, including Wrx's that sound terrible. I believe we have chosen one of the best setups possible. 👌

Yes sir. Bought the kartboy kit and it didn’t come with instructions. I did this upgrade on my 2007 Impreza but it’s a different chassis than my 2019 WRX. But thanks for the quick reply. How’s your car been running since?

That’s good to hear she running strong and I look forward to seeing more videos. I just purchased the delicious tuning flex fuel kit and stage 2+ tune and have high hopes for that flex fuel kit since Cobb appeared to never feel like releasing a new free speed flex fuel kit.

No problems at all! It's been a while since I installed the bushings, and everything is great. Only thing new is a Grimmspeed (race) Pitch Stop. Also, my coilovers are toast. Will be installing Fortune Auto soon. I have all new suspension components ready to go in too.

@@epicpeaker3155 I'm thinking I'll be installing some RCE SS-1 coilovers here soon. I got the idea for the Pinch mount from smeedia's channel. I haven't put any effort yet toward it. Still researching. Also, you mentioned that shifting was horrible w/ the stock pinch mount. Could you explain what made it bad?

@bivensrk Nice! Coilovers rule on these cars. I have some Fortune Auto coilovers and a lot of new suspension stuff I need to install. I liked the Perrin PS mount. But I upgraded to the Grimmspeed "race" PS and love it even more now. I did a lot of other stuff besides the PS to make my shifting awesome. It also has a brass shift bushing, boomba shift plate, Raceseng knob, etc. Thank you for the comment.

@@epicpeaker3155 you’re very welcome! Also, what made shifting horrible with the stock pinch mount?

@bivensrk The Pitch Stop mount is the upper transmission mount. The stock PS has hardly no support (plastic with hollow thin bushings), so the whole transmission moves a lot. This does help to give take NVH from the driving experience. However, it results in a loose and sloppy feel when shifting gears. Aftermarket PS mounts have a metal (usually billet) frame and higher (75-90) durometer bushings. This makes shifts way faster, with a much better feel. Your shifts feel connected to the transmission instead of trying to shift through all the movement in the transmission. An aftermarket PS mount and the lower transmission mounts like Group N with the positive shift kit bushings are a huge upgrade in response and feel.

It's not bad. I put in a Grimmspeed "race version" Pitch Stop mount. I gave the Perrin one away. There is slightly more whine from the transmission, when decelerating in gear. I really like the sound. I wish it was just a little louder though. I might get a stiffer transmission mount than the Group N that I currently have installed. Will probably never go solid mount. Most people get it and end up taking it back out. Usually, the people who keep the solid mount are those with straight pipe exhaust and their car is already super loud.

I've had no issues with the EBCS. It's been about 2 1/2 years since I did this. One thing to take into account is corrosion. When two different metals are in contact, corrosion can occur. It's time I inspected this setup. There will probably be a small bit of rust. Water can still get in that area from washing the car and bad weather. I may need to sand out some light surface rust and primer that area. I'll post back what I find.

@@epicpeaker3155 Thanks for the tips! Did you rotate the tap 360 degrees? if so how with the blockage. If not how do you do that?

@ShakUltra I didn't have to drill out the turbo, because I was able to get the stud out intact. But it screwed up the threads inside really bad. The tap & die set is a full metric set from Harbor Freight and it's decent. So i tapped threw cutting new threads. But as I was spinning it (multiple rotations), it would get to a point where it was impossible to turn, even with assisted leverage (I used a pipe wrench on the tap ). Then I would have to keep backing it off and working it back in farther. I probably could have ran a drill through it, but the right bit for the tap is always a non standard size. Also I didn't want to risk breaking a drill bit in the turbo. It might be a good idea to get a second tap as a new one will be sharper and cut better.

Hey dude thanks a ton I just removed the oil pan that is below the turbo an was able to tap and die with no issues!!! Earlier this week I ordered the correct metric tap, one did come with my kit but I broke it accidentally. Size . M10x1.25 Just look for a kit with this that comes with the drill bit as well. Just a note for people in the future.

And now the top left on is broken off, sadness. Well tomorrow will be a long day

I used the same ones that were there. The service manual says to replace them. I didn't because mine looked new.

Thanks. You'll need an adapter gasket, if you have a stock jpipe. I got the Grimmspeed one. If you have an aftermarket jpipe get a regular 3in Grimmspeed one. Even if Invidia has one for where the catback meets the jpipe, having the Grimmspeed one is way better. The Grimmspeed ones never wear out, but the Invidia ones do. I'm not sure but I think when I got the Cobb jpipe it came with the donut gasket. It doesn't fit very good though.

It wasn't readily available from stores and the last PUP I got from Amazon was expired. The last few changes have been Valvoline Advanced full synthetic.

Sorry, so many comments. Replacing a cv axel on a WRX should be pretty easy, because of the symmetrical AWD. Example (on a FWD car they are different sizes). The passenger side is way longer and hard to get to on a non Subaru car. It is still a pain in the ass to take off all the shit tho. But it's not hard mechanically. Subaru's seem easier to me. But I would get a wheel alignment after replacement.

Nice! TGV deletes and headers make it sound even better.

Good luck. I think it's easier than the video seems. Take your time and it'll be fun! I've been running mine over 2 years and had no problems at all. Make sure you get the old o-ring out in the video (the one I almost missed). Also Cobb isn't supporting tunes with the Flex Fuel kit anymore ☹️.

@@epicpeaker3155 Yeah I don't think I'm going to go Flex Fuel just yet. I'm OK with the pump, its the wiring I'm concernfroge about. I've just been worried about splicing it into the OEM wires. esp with all these people saying it melted the OEM wire I have a couple friends who have totaled their cars all because of bad wiring. So I'm installing the pump this weekend, and got the hardwire kit, I just haven't been able to find any good Videos or explanations of how to install them. Also my Pump doesn't appear to have come with new O-Rings so I'm assuming I just re use the originals.

@@epicpeaker3155 Awesome! yeah i just went with the 400 so i dont have to replace it later on. But this Harness is pissing me off lol

Did ur pump come with new o rings? Mine didn't have any in the box.

Everything was going awesome until last weekend. Having an issue with the Cobb Flex Fuel system. Raw ethanol monitor went to zero and got a CEL for low voltage. Going to do some troubleshooting this weekend. Worst case scenario, a new kit from IBR is around $550.

@@epicpeaker3155 glad to hear everything is holding up well, for the most part. Is it your daily driver?

I'm stoked for you too. You will love it!

Holds up great! Still works like new.

Did you fix the threads on the bolts or just leave it? I always screw the nuts on, as far as I can by hand. Then use a torque wrench. I will admit my torque numbers are on the tight end of the spectrum.

@@epicpeaker3155 I just put some threadlocker and snugged it down as tight as I can without it stripping again, the passenger side bolts torqued down just fine though

There's a lot of good catbacks out there. My R400 still looks new. Sound and noise level is subjective to each person. My car now has intake, non resonated J-pipe, headers, and full tgv deletes. It is NOT too loud for me (even on the highway and WOT) and I'm 48 years old. If you're completely stock I would go R400 for sure. It gets a bit louder with more mods. Not sure if you are planning more mods after the catback though. Maybe the Q300 if you plan on doing more mods and want a quieter sleeper car. The cold start will be significantly louder though, with either catback. So if you have jerk neighbors it might be better to get the Q300. Don't get the Tomei if you work early in the morning.

@@epicpeaker3155 thanks so much! One of my neighbors has a straight piped older model wrx which is very loud. Was hoping not to be that loud, probably won’t be adding a j pipe for whole so sounds like r400 is the winner

On the stock inlet, the boost controller screws right into it. The Perrin inlet does not have anywhere for it to screw into. I thought zip ties would be ghetto, and not very secure. My method is secure, and gives me peace of mind. Have no issues since install and Protune.

Haha. Makes even more great sounds with an intake. Cheers!

Headers would probably get you a bit more. Somewhere around 15-20 kw at the wheel with a protune. Sound is not much louder, if you have a catted downpipe and mufflers. Maybe 5-10 percent increase. Although, if you're running cattless straight piped, it would be very loud!

No problems. But, they are the stock 18" Subaru wheels. Also the bolts are counter sunk, so I can't see how that could happen. Perhaps if you had smaller than 20mm spacers, then the stock bolts may be too long and might need to be replaced. But the 20mm spacers are good to go.

I got the mounts from Rally Sport Direct. I think I might have used the bolts from the old mounts. Call Perrin they have good customer service. I had a lug bolt shear off on my Perrin spacers and they sent me new ones.

Thank you bro because every mod on this car need a tune. I bought the Cobb intake, the access port and the boomba BPV and I want to know what I can do before do every installation so that is a good new that don’t need tune this headers thank you for the info.

I think there were spacers. You might want to try repositioning it. Also if you have a clamp you might be able to clamp it over and then screw it in. They have cheap clamps at Home Depot with a grip. Each time you squeeze the grip on the clamp it gets closer together.

No problems whatsoever. The Diode Dynamics SL1 is a superb product. Unfortunately 1 of my Morimoto fog bulbs is starting to flicker. I checked the wiring and it's probably the bulb. My Diode Dynamics C-lights are also going very strong still. DD makes great products!

@@epicpeaker3155 thanks for the reply. Decided to get the r400 with the catted invidia j pipe. Its not resonated like the cobb so hopefully it's not to loud

I didn't get the brace. I think Subaru learned from costly failures and has strengthened the firewall where the pitch stop connects. I believe this was done around 2017. forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2904448

@@epicpeaker3155 Gotcha! Unfortunately my subie is a 17 mfd in 2016 so I'm gonna have to get the brace lol. Nice stuff, thank you for the link!

No. I'm running the modds on the first. I didn't want my car to be super loud. Also those on the second slide aren't emissions friendly. I run a catalytic converter and don't want to attract too much attention or piss off my neighbors. Loud car can get notes on car, eggs on car, keyed car and slashed tires. Maybe in the future I might get a fmic and brz intake. Maybe a carbon fiber driveshaft. But I would only run cattless on a dedicated race car, or if it was a old car that emissions were not applicable.