Great video, excellent communication and how you walked your audience through what this bike can do, challenges, etc. As for the bike, put a 3.0 or 4.0 Rekluse Auto Clutch on that baby and a nice tune and that bike is the absolute cats meeeoooowwww!!! I ride hard enduro with two guys riding that same bike, one has the auto clutch and it is amazing what that bike can do with that clutch, and of course a good rider. Hope I didn't "trigger" anyone by mentioning the auto clutch 🤣
The flameout issue is because the mapping has this thing running at 15-16:1 AFR according to a dyno here on TH-cam. That's another world of lean, and it's like that the ENTIRE RPM range. I'm willing to bet the reason these aren't melting top ends is either as a dual sport it's not ridden hard enough, or the oil jet under the piston is keeping it cool enough to not be an issue. Never have I seen an AFR so far in the lean scale in anything I've worked on.
The manufacturer's hands are tied. They have to map these motorcycle's lean to meet EPA standards. I don't feel a person has to change the exhaust or do anything with the airbox. The Toco Moto GET SX1 ECU with WiFi module would sort out your motorcycle for your riding style/needs
thank you for this video, Dustin. your “use case” and riding style is matched to mine. At 27:30 you start to address limited clutch use, but would be interesting to know if bike would stall (often) when blipping the throttle while riding with the clutch pulled IN, i.e. not stopped in neutral. thinking of cases where we could be lugging along and encounter a downhill section where we might be inclined to protect against a low speed stall, and do a little rev with the clutch pulled in - idea being to have positive feedback the power would be there if we needed it, but not wanting to accelerate - and that might actually result in a very much NOT wanted stall during a somewhat technical descend, maybe even when braking slightly on a downhill. I expect that sort of a throttle blip at idle (but not in neutral) with clutch pulled in might result in a stall with some potential consequence that we definitely DON’T want while in motion and not in neutral. any thoughts?
@coresurf22 I will have to verify the blip scenario with the clutch engaged while in a drive gear. Perhaps I will have to go out and do so. I have done some rugged and steep downhills on the bike, with combinations of braking while clutching in drive gear, braking in neutral, braking in conjunction with engine braking, and engine braking alone. My experience has been that if the bike is moving, it doesn't have an issue staying running. I'm not seeing much potential for a problem with the clutch engaged. In the event the bike stalls you can keep the clutch in and keep rolling, drop the clutch and bump start the bike, or electric start the bike with the clutch in. In those cases you keep rolling. The primary take away here is that the risk of crashing is more an issue when the bike stalls without the clutch engaged.
@@dustinhoover3157 thank you for your kind reply. agree 100% it’s a quick fix after a stall when rolling downhill to simply let the clutch back out and the bike starts right up again - effectively the old school “bump start.” but am I wrong to think a bike should never ever stall in gear if the clutch is pulled in fully, no matter the throttle action, idle or at any RPM or traveling speed?
Just bought one yesterday. The engine rattles some, heard it in someone else's video too so thinking it is just the engine. My 390adv does not have that rattle.
I haven't noticed any irregular engine sounds so far. Though the chain does get some slap and rattle. The chain needs to be a bit slack on this chassis.
@@dustinhoover3157 I can hear it more with the clutch off but heard it in other people’s videos. I think it may just be noisier because it is more dirt focused than road focused though. I may run it back to the dealer though to see what they say. It isn’t a cheap bike so hope it is not the case.
I think I know what you're talking about. There is a change with clutch in vs. out. I believe those are just moving part sounds on these bikes. I did notice that this bike had some unique sounds as soon as I ran it. It certainly wouldn't hurt you to check with the dealer and make it known. Maybe meet up with another owner in your area and compare the bikes.
Later in the video (25:08), I demonstrate the same issue after the bike was ridden for a few hours. I don't believe it is related to temperature on this bike.
@@twoguncorcoran4733 10-4 yea it matters right because depending on if you have CR high bars and bar risers because you are taller. I ended up running the longer round mirror version with the 2" because I have tall bars and a 1" riser plate that is heavenly standing and riding between the combo makes a real cockpit when jumping and wheelies and cruising is even better. Im at a point to where Im looking at the CDI ecu I really not wanting too but I dont like that reed deal in the airbox and could use more power but im not going to race or anything. Im torn at the thought of fallowing everybody and dumping another $1800 bucks on something everybody is doing. Half of these guys just do it because everybody else is and Im not a fallower. Im still working on the gas tank issue is more important to me. I have the 2024 exc-f
@@gregharris2928 Yeah I was not thrilled with the effects of running lean. With that said, I did want to get baseline experience with the machine stock.
@@jasonclark4949 I have the Tusk Traverse panniers, a Tusk 10L dry bag, and the Tusk handlebar bag. All of those items are universal fit. They seem to work well on the KTM.
I believe I did say the stock machine is more than capable. That is the main take away from this video. The 2024 500 EXC-F U.S. base models do not come with a map switch. The Six Day’s model does, but as of now the switch is not useable from the dealer. With all that said I am curious about the open up around the 1000km mark. What’s that all about?
I have been waiting for someone to do a video like this for a long time. Why did you buy the 500 over the 350? I think a 350 might be a more suitable bike. The 500 might be too much power for me that I would never use. TIA
That's great, I am glad you found value in the video! I briefly rode a Husqvarna 350 years ago so I dont have a back to back opinion on this, but from the research I have done the common theme is that the 350 likes to be ridden higher in the RPM range, whereas the 500 does well lugging in the lower RPM's. Also I hear that even though the physical weight is not much different, people say the 350 "Feels" lighter to ride. I chose the 500 over the 350 for several reason's. I felt the 500 would be a little better for on road riding. That may or may not be true. I also like the idea of having a few more CC's to compensate for the added weight of cargo. Being able to lugg around sounded appealing. Plus I was interested in the popularity of the 500's, they seem to be versatile machines and get so much praise from owners that it sounded like a good choice for my use case.
Just raise your idle a little bit and it’ll flameout less.
Great video, excellent communication and how you walked your audience through what this bike can do, challenges, etc. As for the bike, put a 3.0 or 4.0 Rekluse Auto Clutch on that baby and a nice tune and that bike is the absolute cats meeeoooowwww!!! I ride hard enduro with two guys riding that same bike, one has the auto clutch and it is amazing what that bike can do with that clutch, and of course a good rider. Hope I didn't "trigger" anyone by mentioning the auto clutch 🤣
Thank you for the feedback and for your thoughts on the Recluse!
The flameout issue is because the mapping has this thing running at 15-16:1 AFR according to a dyno here on TH-cam. That's another world of lean, and it's like that the ENTIRE RPM range. I'm willing to bet the reason these aren't melting top ends is either as a dual sport it's not ridden hard enough, or the oil jet under the piston is keeping it cool enough to not be an issue.
Never have I seen an AFR so far in the lean scale in anything I've worked on.
@AliasTekTV That has been the concensus among You-tuners. For me, the engine heat is the most compelling reason for having the bike tuned.
I agree with what you’re saying, it’s definitely rideable stock. I have nearly 300 miles in my ‘24 and haven’t killed it or had it flame out yet.
The manufacturer's hands are tied. They have to map these motorcycle's lean to meet EPA standards. I don't feel a person has to change the exhaust or do anything with the airbox.
The Toco Moto GET SX1 ECU with WiFi module would sort out your motorcycle for your riding style/needs
thank you for this video, Dustin. your “use case” and riding style is matched to mine. At 27:30 you start to address limited clutch use, but would be interesting to know if bike would stall (often) when blipping the throttle while riding with the clutch pulled IN, i.e. not stopped in neutral. thinking of cases where we could be lugging along and encounter a downhill section where we might be inclined to protect against a low speed stall, and do a little rev with the clutch pulled in - idea being to have positive feedback the power would be there if we needed it, but not wanting to accelerate - and that might actually result in a very much NOT wanted stall during a somewhat technical descend, maybe even when braking slightly on a downhill. I expect that sort of a throttle blip at idle (but not in neutral) with clutch pulled in might result in a stall with some potential consequence that we definitely DON’T want while in motion and not in neutral. any thoughts?
@coresurf22 I will have to verify the blip scenario with the clutch engaged while in a drive gear. Perhaps I will have to go out and do so. I have done some rugged and steep downhills on the bike, with combinations of braking while clutching in drive gear, braking in neutral, braking in conjunction with engine braking, and engine braking alone. My experience has been that if the bike is moving, it doesn't have an issue staying running. I'm not seeing much potential for a problem with the clutch engaged. In the event the bike stalls you can keep the clutch in and keep rolling, drop the clutch and bump start the bike, or electric start the bike with the clutch in. In those cases you keep rolling. The primary take away here is that the risk of crashing is more an issue when the bike stalls without the clutch engaged.
@@dustinhoover3157 thank you for your kind reply. agree 100% it’s a quick fix after a stall when rolling downhill to simply let the clutch back out and the bike starts right up again - effectively the old school “bump start.” but am I wrong to think a bike should never ever stall in gear if the clutch is pulled in fully, no matter the throttle action, idle or at any RPM or traveling speed?
@@coresurf22 No, and I understood your question. I will test the scenario and get back to you.
@coresurf22 I tested your scenario and yes, the bike can have "flameout" issue with the clutch in while in gear.
Just bought one yesterday. The engine rattles some, heard it in someone else's video too so thinking it is just the engine. My 390adv does not have that rattle.
I haven't noticed any irregular engine sounds so far. Though the chain does get some slap and rattle. The chain needs to be a bit slack on this chassis.
@@dustinhoover3157 I can hear it more with the clutch off but heard it in other people’s videos. I think it may just be noisier because it is more dirt focused than road focused though. I may run it back to the dealer though to see what they say. It isn’t a cheap bike so hope it is not the case.
I think I know what you're talking about. There is a change with clutch in vs. out. I believe those are just moving part sounds on these bikes. I did notice that this bike had some unique sounds as soon as I ran it. It certainly wouldn't hurt you to check with the dealer and make it known. Maybe meet up with another owner in your area and compare the bikes.
Every 4t I've ever ridden has stalled or bogged like that until the bike is warm. I've always warmed the bike up properly and then you can 'blip' it.
Later in the video (25:08), I demonstrate the same issue after the bike was ridden for a few hours. I don't believe it is related to temperature on this bike.
I have an off subject question though, what are your Ram mount lengths on the double take mirrors? They look about perfect on your bike.
The clamps are 3" length. I like the look of them as well.
Thank you twoguncorcoran4733 my exact question. I just see the reply.
@@crashedking1931 I ended up with the taller mounts, I think 5-6” ones.. they just worked better for me.
@@twoguncorcoran4733 10-4 yea it matters right because depending on if you have CR high bars and bar risers because you are taller. I ended up running the longer round mirror version with the 2" because I have tall bars and a 1" riser plate that is heavenly standing and riding between the combo makes a real cockpit when jumping and wheelies and cruising is even better. Im at a point to where Im looking at the CDI ecu I really not wanting too but I dont like that reed deal in the airbox and could use more power but im not going to race or anything. Im torn at the thought of fallowing everybody and dumping another $1800 bucks on something everybody is doing. Half of these guys just do it because everybody else is and Im not a fallower. Im still working on the gas tank issue is more important to me. I have the 2024 exc-f
Dustin, your bike Needs an ECU. It’ll run better and cooler.
@@gregharris2928 Yeah I was not thrilled with the effects of running lean. With that said, I did want to get baseline experience with the machine stock.
I have a 24 6 days and the first day i had it i had 115 soon as it went for a service it wouldnt go over 90
@@Coaltrain87. Hmm that's wild. There are many factors that will affect top speed though.
What are you running for luggage?
@@jasonclark4949 I have the Tusk Traverse panniers, a Tusk 10L dry bag, and the Tusk handlebar bag. All of those items are universal fit. They seem to work well on the KTM.
Bro... you've got be more aggressive with it. They are weapons, and you have maps switch also. They really open up at around the 1000km mark
I believe I did say the stock machine is more than capable. That is the main take away from this video. The 2024 500 EXC-F U.S. base models do not come with a map switch. The Six Day’s model does, but as of now the switch is not useable from the dealer. With all that said I am curious about the open up around the 1000km mark. What’s that all about?
I have been waiting for someone to do a video like this for a long time. Why did you buy the 500 over the 350? I think a 350 might be a more suitable bike. The 500 might be too much power for me that I would never use. TIA
That's great, I am glad you found value in the video! I briefly rode a Husqvarna 350 years ago so I dont have a back to back opinion on this, but from the research I have done the common theme is that the 350 likes to be ridden higher in the RPM range, whereas the 500 does well lugging in the lower RPM's. Also I hear that even though the physical weight is not much different, people say the 350 "Feels" lighter to ride.
I chose the 500 over the 350 for several reason's. I felt the 500 would be a little better for on road riding. That may or may not be true. I also like the idea of having a few more CC's to compensate for the added weight of cargo. Being able to lugg around sounded appealing. Plus I was interested in the popularity of the 500's, they seem to be versatile machines and get so much praise from owners that it sounded like a good choice for my use case.
That makes sense. Get a chin mount from Chin Mounts on your helmet. It will improve the imagery.
The chin mount is on its way. I should have it this week.
I took the reed valve out of my 2024, Six Days, and added an intake tube with an Akropavic slip on. It seemed to wake the bike up a bit.
It will be interesting to hear and see your performance differences.
are you gonna supermoto this bad boy? :D
I haven't gave much consideration to that just yet. I suppose I can't rule out having and extra set of wheels!