Atomic 4 Care
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- Well, you know I can't go sailing ALL the time! Every so often, there are boat chores that need to get done - and today it was the old Atomic-4 engine that needed a little attention. Yes, the Atomic -4 is old, dated, obsolete, whatever - but I have really come to appreciate it over the past several years, and I think it gets a bad rap in some circles. At 45 years old, my Atomic 4 doesn't produce too much more than half of if it's rated power, and it does guzzle fuel at nearly one gallon per hour, but it has proven itself to be a reliable engine that even I - a non-mechanic - can keep in running order. For my use, it has been a great engine. If I were cruising the eastern seaboard, or sailing across oceans, I'd really rather have a diesel. But, for day sailing, racing, and coastal cruising, the Atomic 4 is sweet. It won't push me upwind in 40 knots of breeze, and it won't run much more than 15 hours off my 14 smallish gallon fuel tank, but I use it as an "auxiliary" engine, not a get me anywhere engine. If the winds are greater than 35 knots, I can sail - and if I have to motor more than 15 hours between fuel stops, I might as well not be on a sailboat. It has been a good engine for Whimsy, and after 45 years it is still getting the job done. Thanks to Moyer marine for helping me keep this engine working!
0:00 - Intro and parts/tools
1:23 - Servicing Raw and fresh water pumps, impellar change process
7:40 - Fuel filter replacement process
10:55 - Oil change process
12:04 - Spark Plug replacement process
14:24 - Flamer arrestor/ carburetor
15:07 - Crank up, runnin’ her at speed
16:48 - Raw water strainer service
17:10 - Heat Exchanger Zinc replacement
18:05 - Recap
Great resource, many thanks Tom
Great video. We love our A4 too, so easy to trouble shoot. She never fails!
Almost a decade later I came across this great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge, hope you're doing well!
Sorry it took so long!
My channel is seemingly invisible to TH-cam algorithms.
Mostly, I use TH-cam to store my videos for free. 😁
i just became one of the 15,000 this Year. Thanks for your video. it's a 30' Northstar 1000 in Vancouver, BC
Wonderful video just bought a boat with an atomic floor. I’m gonna do everything you did.
Thank you for your post. It was very helpful to watch you go through all the points in caring for this old engine.
Great video! I just acquired a Irwin 28 Sailboat with an Atomic 4 in it and its a mess. This video helped me make sense of it. Thanks for making it!
Thank you for your kind words Marty!
The Atomic 4 was a great engine in its day, and it remains a viable choice for powering our sailboats even today. Much thanks goes to Moyer Marine (and others) who appreciate them and keep them running.
Congratulations to you and all the best with your Irwin 28! My old Morgan 30 is now 14 months into a total refit and I hope to have her back sailing soon.
My Atomic 4 was replaced with a Beta 20 diesel, but I really was >this< close to rebuilding and keeping the Atomic 4. (...I miss the smooth sound of the Atomic 4!)
I have great admiration for the Atomic 4's. They are wonderful and durable engines. If you can get yours back into good shape, it will treat you well! Good luck!
@@TomScottMorgan30 The Beta Marine engine are really nice. Maybe one day... Just not in the budget for me now. Thanks again for the vid.
Great video. Thanks
Good job young man
Thanks for getting back to me so soon Tom. Went down and had a look. Sure enough there was the plug. I'm assuming that having not changed for three years that is probably a cause of my mysteriously disappearing coolant. Hopefully a little stop leak in the reservoir will help rectify.
Bill C My guess is that when you pull the plug, there will be NO zinc left. After many years with no zinc, the heat exchanger may have been compromised by corroision. So,I suppose there is no harm in trying a little stop-leak or some such product. Worst case, a new heat exchanger may be needed. Sail On!
Thanks a lot for this video. I'm retired, 67yrs old, and just started sailing 3-months ago in the Gulf of Thailand on a Jenneau 43. When I buy a boat it will be something like a 26-31 foot vessel. I've noticed some freshwater boats for sale at great prices, in Canada, that have an Atomic 4 or Volvo Penta gas inboard and was afraid to consider them over a diesel --- but I'm more open-minded now that I've seen how happy you've been and how you properly take care of your engine...
donjvalley Glad to hear that! There are about 15,000 Atomic 4's still being used today. There is no good reason to fear them - you just need to respect gasoline. The only real downside for cruising with an Atomic 4 is the fuel economy - it burns nearly one gallon an hour. A diesel would be far more fuel efficient. But, I prefer to dance with the one that brought me, so I'm sticking with my Atomic 4 and simply learning and enjoying the good things about them. I wouldn't run away from a boat that had a well-cared for one aboard ...they really are fine engines for "auxiliary" power.
wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks so much! i didnt know what to do for my atomic 4, now i know how to keep it safe!
Thank you so much, Tom! Your video is immensely helpful. Just what I was looking for! This will make the engine tune-up much easier. Please keep posting!
Helene H Glad to help! But, for ALL the information you need, make sure to check out Moyer Marine's website - they are the real pros! (..I'm just some guy trying to keep my Atomic 4 happy!) Sail On! - Tom Scott ;-)
Thank you sir! Learned a lot.
Hey buddy just swapped my 2004 26M for a 1978 C&C 34 with atomic 4 thanks for the great video!
Thanks Tom...very informative.
The A-4s have outlasted most of the diesels that were offered as options back then. That's saying a lot because most all of the A-4s were raw water cooled. You can still get parts for the A-4s as well. Lot's of luck finding those for most of the diesels that were offered back then.
1/2 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil (though you can go a full can) in the fuel keeps the carbon deposits out of the cylinders and provides steady upper cylinder lubrication too. A-4s hate carbon and the higher compression that results. You lucked out getting one that was FW cooled. Most A-4s get through their overhaul with no boring of the cylinders. I would never replace an A-4 with a diesel. Better fuel economy yes, better dependability, no. An electronic ignition system with a ballasted coil is good common sense though. I would keep all the components so I could revert back to breaker points if the ignition system goes crunch though. A new fuel pump is always recommended because if the ones leak into the crank case, you could be very screwed.
Good points Mr. Marshall. I do have the electronic ignition. I installed it about ten years ago, and it has never hiccuped. My fuel pump is an externally and remotely mounted electric one. It has failed, but was readily available at my local auto parts store. I'm also a big fan of using MMO in these engines. Overall, I have been very happy with the old Atomic 4.
Great video!
Happy you found it helpful! Thank you. 😊
Nice job. I was only a little cornfused with the fresh and raw water pumps but then I actually thought about it and like duh, I realized it went through a heat exchanger. Just in time for you to say, "heat exchanger". Lol.
Time for me to buy a service manual on my tohatsu. Not sure where the impeller is but I'm sure it's over due for replacement. Winter projects to keep me going.
Sail safe,
Mike
Sailing BayBeeCakes Yeah, freshwater cooling was an "add-on" to these engines. Whimsy's first home was in Michigan, and she likely had just raw water cooling when new. But, at some point in her "later life" in the southeastern US (South Carolina, Miami, Jacksonville), some prior owner added freshwater cooling. Good thing, too! Fresh water cooling really extends the life of these engines. I would bet there aren't too many Atomic-4's alive in saltwater that are still taking saltwater through the engine.
I imagine they make a "kit" for your Tohatsu - you'll probably end up replacing the case the impeller rests in too, and maybe a couple of seals. If it looks too daunting, there's no shame in taking it to a professional marine mechanic. Some outboards are more difficult than others - but you'll almost certainly end up having to take off the lower unit - and that gets awkward fast with things shift mechanisms, water tubes, and the vertical shaft all needing to be juggled during re-installation.
You'll do fine - just be patient and deliberate.
Sail On! - Tom
Great video. Very informative. Subscribed!
Thanks, Tom. Recent Afourian here. As I’m sure you know, Moyer Marine and Indigo are great sources. MM dipstick extender is a real time and frustration saver. Really like pre filling fuel filter instead of having to hot wire electric fuel pump to refill carb. My duh.
👍😎👍
little tip older engines have flat tappet camshafts and modern oil has no zinc (modern engines are full roller no zinc needed). Without zinc any flat tappet cam has a good chance of going flat. You can find zinc additive at any parts store. Diesel and racing oil still has zinc but most oils do not. Hope this helps your engine live a lot longer.
This isn't an issue for the Atomic 4 - yet. It is not true that modern engine oils have NO zinc. Rather, modern oils have LESS zinc. The Atomic 4 is adequately protected by the lower levels of zinc. The phosphorus level (which indicates the relative amount of zinc anti-wear additive) is commonly limited to around 600 - 800 ppm in most oils recommended for the engine. Older "high performance" engines with after-market parts are apparently the most susceptible to wear from low zinc oil, and may need a zinc supplement (additive). Again, I am not a mechanic or engine expert, but this is the opinion shared with me from Moyer Marine - who I do consider to be experts on the engine.
That is fine I guess. I have work in a machine shop and see this problem quite often. What matters is that you are cozy with it.
Excellent video, thank you. You may want to try swapping the plugs a little while after running the mystery oil and SeaFoam as one or both may foul the plugs a bit as they do their thing.
I like that the work is done in hull so you get an idea how it really affects you when you're there
When it's done on a bench it's not really fair because you have no idea of how you're going to have to Scrooge bended reach.
great video. great content. great editing. thank you.
Thank you for the kind words, Nick.😊
Enjoyed...thanks for sharing:)
This video is so helpful, since I'm considering an A30 purchasel!!!When winterizing your Atomic 4, or annually, have you ever a Sea Flush kit w/Barnacle Buster chemicals to clean the heat exchanger??? I was trying to find the video where one guy does a 'fresh water' flush after each engine use and came across Sea Flush & Barnacle Buster for the first time...
Hi donjvalley - I never winterize my Atomic 4 as I live where the things don't freeze. ;-) Additionally, my location is in an estuary with brackish water (low salt), so I never have needed to clean the heat exchanger. I use the boat regularly year round, which is something all the mechanical systems and engine really seems to appreciate. From my perspective, the worst thing you can do to an Atomic 4 is seldom run it. It really likes to be run frequently and regularly - and I'm more than happy to oblige! ;-) So, I have no experience with any flushing or cleaning products for the heat exchanger. If I lived somewhere that the engine and systems sat idle for 6 months at a time, I would think some type of preservation and cleaning regimen would make sense. My best advice to you is contact the folks at Moyer Marine and see what they suggest. In my experience, they are the most knowledgeable and experienced people with these engines, and I have always found them helpful and willing to share their opinions.
fantastic vid tx!
I assume that you sail only on a 'fresh' water lake, but if you sail in salt water, or for "off-shore" sailing w/Atomic 4, do you suggest "monthly" flushing w/SeaFlush and Barnacle Buster. Also, do you have a 'part number' for the small zinc that you buy from Ace Hardware. I'm thinking about an A30...
donjvalley -- I sail on the west coast of Florida, in salt water. My Atomic 4 is fresh water cooled. A 50/50 mix of fresh water and coolant is circulated through the engine - not salt water. Instead, the salt water cools the 50/50 engine coolant via a heat exchanger - which is like a car radiator cooled by sea water rather than air. The heat exchanger has the pencil zinc that I buy at Ace Hardware. Mine is a 3/8":size - but that is probably of no help to anyone as the heat exchanger is an after market accessory that is not specific to the Atomic 4 - you need a zinc for whatever your boat has. Hope this clarifies!
Hi Tom, Great video. Thanks for creating it. I am having difficulty finding a pump with the correct diameter of hose to fit into the dip stick opening. I was wondering if you could provide the manufacture of the pump in your video, and the diameter of the hose?
Hi Mark,
That is a West Marine 2.9 quart oil extractor. It comes with two extractor tube sizes - the smaller one fits within the larger one and will also fit in the A4 dipstick tube. The model number is 11097714, and it cost around $50.
thanks
I always thought there should be a zinc on the heat exchanger on my boat but didn't know where the heck it was..... My HE is a little older than the on you have but I'm on my way down now to have a look. I'm in awe how clean your motor is for 45 years.... well done. I did a carb rebuild on mine a few years ago. floats were hard to find but I did find a guy in WA state that had them as well as on in Calif so now I have a spare....also dis the the elec ign upgrade with new coil and leads. I think my plugs are do as well. Doesn't quite crank up as quick as yours but she does run well.
What do you usually cruise at for rpm? I'm a Catalina 30 and find that 1700 usually is just fine. Motor doesn't work to hard for the 5 knots im going. I used to get 6&1/2 7 out of her at 2000/2100 but I found she would get warm. Any higher (towards full throttle) and it would be like she skips out of gear....is this something you have experienced? I'm thinking there must be something loosened off in the clutch or driveline.... Not sure wher to look. I've just been babying her along. Any input would be very helpful. Thanks for posting the video. Good stuff
Bill C Hi Bill,My typical cruising RPM is 1400 - and that gets me nearly 5 knots in calm water. I can't get much more than 2100 rpm out of it at WOT, and that will give me a hair over 6 knots - I'd never reach 7 knots under power. I have not experienced anyt kind of "slippage", but there is an adjustement that can be made to transmission to keep the "drive cone" from slipping. My understanding is that there is a simple cone that gets pushed against a mated part in the drive train to engage the engine in forward gear - and there is an adjustement that can be made, Moyer Marine has info on this - check them out! (..sounds like what you need!). My engine was rebuit by the prior owner about 10 yars ago - and it still does well with my frequent but relatively light duty use.
Here's a small suggestion about the order of these steps. If you're going to change the spark plugs, you might as well do it AFTER you've applied carb cleaner to the fuel or air intake.
As you mentioned, a lot of smoke may be produced when burning off the contamination that was dissolved into the fuel-air mixture. You may as well use the OLD plugs to accomplish that, right?
@starfishsystems Well, I am not a mechanic - I was simply showing what I do. Your mileage may vary!
My thought process was that it would be better to have new plugs installed before I used the cleaner simply because the cleaner would be trying to clean the dirty sparkplugs and loosening up the crud that accumulated on them. I would rather just remove the dirty plugs first so that none of the crud on them got dissolved and moved elsewhere if it did not burn. Is that the better choice? I don't know - but it IS what I did, and my Atomic 4 ran well for many more years before I swapped it out in 2020 for a Beta 20 diesel.
Thanks for the great video Tom. I bought a 1972 Grampian 30 that still has the Atomic 4 in it, but without the raw to fresh water exchange. Did you install it on the front of the engine? Thinking about getting one if I take it to the ocean. Also, I am not looking forward to changing the impeller, there is a sink over top of the engine and then the bottom of the companion way over top of the alternator/water pump at the back. Arg.
Hi Robert,
I did not install the fresh water cooling system on Whimsy, a previous owner did that job. I have simply had the blessed opportunity to replace it. If you do plan on heading to salt water, I think the fresh water cooling modification is probably the single most important addition you can make to your Atomic 4.
I think Moyer (..and some others) sells kits for doing the job. My system likely predates those, and uses off the shelf parts with multiple uses. For example, the raw water pump is a Jabsco agricultural pump. The heat exchanger is generic marine unit, not something designed specifically for the Atomic 4. The prior owner did a pretty good job figuring everything out, so I have simply replaced parts as necessary. There has never been a need to improve or change any of it. (...Yes, it does use a pulley wheel on the front of the engine to drive the raw water pump.) Sounds like they really "shoe-horned" your engine into a pretty tight space! Perhaps you can remove the sink for better access through the hole it sits in, or create some sort of easily removed "lift out lid" in the companionway area to improve access? Considering the age of your boat, you have to believe that everything was reached and replaced at some point in the past, so it might not be as impossible as it looks. I seem to spend a lot of time sitting and staring at mechanical things. Sometimes, that can lead to my figuring out a better way ...or sometimes it just leads to dry eyes, and headache. Good luck! ;-)
Great video! Thanks for taking the time.
Maybe a dumb questions, but why did you put her in gear to run her up to full throttle? Couldn't you do that in Neutral?
Also... no oil filter on this thing?! Wow! That's surprising as heck but I guess the Atomic4 has history on her side and has proven ya don't need one.
Thanks again!
I run the engine in forward gear to put it under load and make sure it can obtain and maintain at least 2,000 RPM. The operation manual also recommends that the engine be run under load rather than in neutral when practicable. Since the engine oil also lubricates the transmission, it may be beneficial as well to circulate the new clean oil around the transmission. Yup, no oil filter - but the oil gets changed every 90 days or 30 hours.
Where can you find the water pump impellers for the Atomic 4?
Moyer Marine. www.moyermarine.com
I'm in Toronto Ontario, where did you find the impeller kit?
It can be ordered on line from Moyer Marine. You need to look at your pump and note the make and model. Most common are Oberdorfer pumps - but there are others. Moyer can help you with the details. moyermarine.com/
Also, you can simply call them on the phone - even from Canada. The guy who answers has always been extremely knowledgeable and helpful. (... I think his name was Larry.) Hope this helps!
Hi Tom, I am happy to have found your video as I bought a 1974 Catalina 27 with an Atomic 4 last fall 2014. I am new to sailing so this is my first boat and therefore I am on a crash course to learn the labor of love aspects of sailing. Unfortunately, the boat went into storage without an oil change. Can you give me any suggestions to help minimize my neglect?
My best advice is to go to the Moyer Marine web site (Google it!) and read all the FAQ's, and related posts. Read everything you can - Moyer knows his stuff! Subscribe to their newsletter. Moyer is a great source of information as well as parts and supplies. I am NOT a marne mechanic - I'm just a guy who's sailboat has an Atomic-4 in it. I really do like the engine, and have found it reasonably easy to keep running. Regular oil changes, fuel filter changes, spark plugs, electronic ignition upgrade, fresh water cooling upgrade, coolant flushes, impeller changes, and zinc replacements - when combined with regular and frequent use - seem to keep the engine most happy. Once you get it running well, keep using it. The engine seems to develop issues if left unused for very long - like when I go into the yard for maintenance. But, when it gets used a couple of times a week for months on end, it is really a happy camper! Sail On!
Tom Scott
Hi Tom..a lil request..could I know which parts were ordered for this service..part #'s
Hi Alvin,
It would be best to get that from Moyer Marine. There were multiple water pumps used on the Atomic 4, so what you have and what I have may be different. Additionally, the raw water pump on my engine was from an agricultural pump so unless you just randomly have that same pump, that info will not help you. Likewise, the fuel filter was an aftermarket choice form NAPA Auto Parts, so there is no commonality there.
So, to get the correct parts, you need to get the numbers off your existing water pumps(s), fuel filters, etc., and use those numbers rather than anything I could tell you. Moyer Marine are the experts on Atomic 4's, and they can get you on the right course for finding the right parts for your installation.
Thanks @@TomScottMorgan30 ..will do..just wanted to keep spares just in case..safe sailing.
There's apparently a new prop from Indigo which helps with power.
~another of the 15,000
Would filling the whole filter with Seafoam give a real good clean to the carburetor?
I imagine it would! However, I am unsure about any unintended consequences of running the engine on 100% Seafoam for even a couple of minutes. Would the engine run well on pure seafoam? I imagine it might, but I don't know that. And if it did run on pure seafoam, could that cause a problem? I imagine it could, but I don't know that either. So, I've simply elected to run it only "mostly gas" with a much higher than normal concentration of seafoam added to the filter. All I can confirm is that this amount of added Seafoam (about 1/4 of the filter volume) did not have any unintended consequences, and it did a pretty good job of keeping the carb clean. While it seems logical that adding even more Seafoam would make the cleaning better - I never tried it. Let us know how it works for you if you try it!
@@TomScottMorgan30 Well it did great on 75% seafoam. Reinstalled the old fuel filter for now until my new one from Amazon arrives later this week. The Seafoam website says you can't add too much seafoam.
Wow, Thanks.
It does clarify; thanks again...
Can you pump the old oil out of the filler spout at the front of the engine? My dipstick is super hard to reach on my C&C27.
I would say "not effectively" - because your engine is almost certainly angled downward aft such that you really need to suck from the back of the engine in order to get most of the oil out. Even using the dipstick hole for the suction tube, I imagine there are still a few ounces of dirty oil that remain with every oil change. Of course, you can always try - no harm in that. Just measure how much oil you actually remove and compare that to the roughly three quarts of dirty oil you should be able to get out via the dipstick hole.
@@TomScottMorgan30 Thanks for that. It's on the hard in the cradle now. I'll let you know what I suck out of it from the front. When you say you add a bit of MMO, how much are we talking about? And how much in the cylinders when changing the plugs?
On the order of 4 to 6 oz in the crankcase. For each cylinder, only one little squirt out of the small pistol grip oiler - perhaps 1/2 - 2/3rds of a cap full of MMO. (Not much!)
@@TomScottMorgan30 Thanks for this. I changed the oil for the first time - used the dipstick and a crappy little hand transfer pump. Took about 20mins pumping to get 3liters out. Is there a drain plug?
You need a better pump. I use a West Marine 2.9 quart oil extractor. It comes with two extractor tube sizes - the smaller one fits within the larger one and will also fit nicely in the A4 dipstick tube. The model number is 11097714, and it cost around $50.00. You simply push the tube down the dipstick hole, pump the extractor about 15 times, and then sit back and watch it suck out all the oil in about 4 minutes. (...You may need to give a couple of additional strokes to the pump over the drain time, but that's it!)
There IS a drain plug on the oil pan toward the rear, but it is virtually unusable in most installations. If you miraculously can reach that plug, that would be the best absolute best way to get all the oil out. But, all this talk of "pumps, dipsticks, and hoses" is entirely because of the inaccessibility of that drain plug. So, if you can reach the drain plug somehow , problem solved! (...most installations don't allow useable access.)
Thanks for the info .
By the way , warming oil in hopes that the oil will come out faster and more complete is a myth
What is your source for that claim?
Warm oil flows faster than cold oil. That is NOT an opinion - it can be tested with 100% repeatable accuracy. Get a piece of glass, put a spoonful of cold oil and then a spoonful of warm oil on the glass (separated from each other) and turn the glass to (say) a 45 degree angle. The warm oil will beat the cold oil to the bottom EVERY TIME. Not sure about how you are using the term "complete", but the rationale for running the engine before draining the oil is that some (yes, not all) of the sediments and crud that tend to settle to the bottom while sitting will - with engine operation - become suspended in the oil long enough to be removed within the oil that is drained. Again, the efficacy of this has been tested and verified by oil sampling analysis - it's not an "opinion".
An additional comment the manufacturer says that you should put 2 tablespoons of oil in the cylinders at the beginning of the season
Wait. What are seasons??? 😁😁😁
@@TomScottMorgan30 Long Island, NY, winter then summer
Hi Tom,
What impeller kit do you use on your Universal Atomic 4 gasoline engine?
I use the Oberdorfer impeller from Moyer Marine for the engine coolant. The raw water impeller fits the Jabasco agricultural pump I have installed, and that is Model 1210-0001-P/ Profile K.
Is there an oil filter?
No. However Moyer Marine sells a kit that would allow you to install one if you needed extended range between oil changes. 😊
Nice video! as always. Strange to see a gasoline engine in a sailboat, ¿is it usual in the US? It sounds nice anyway. Mine is also claiming for some of this upholding, the impeller is so unreachable that I'm really delaying it too much...
astrobola There were about 40,000 Universal Atomic 4 gasoline engines installed in sailboats in the 1960's and 1970's. Of all of those installed, perhaps 15,000 or so are still in use today. Diesel engines are the norm nowadays, as gasoline engines have fallen almost entirely out of favor among sailors. However, many owners of older boats with gasoline engines have come to appreciate some of the good things about a gasoline engine - and these engines are enjoying a bit of resurgence in popularity among an admittedly small group of sailors. A company called Moyer Marine has been a big influence in not only keeping these engines going, but in helping to bring them back. www.moyermarine.com/
For the way I currently use my boat, the gasoline engine works well. If I was doing a lot of long distance motoring, a diesel would be a better choice. However, I use the motor as a true auxiliary. If it's blowing hard, I sail - and if it's calm, I wait for wind. I don't motor for hours on end. I run it for 15 minutes going out to sail, and another 15 minutes to get back home - usually at a fast idle and loafing along at an easy 4.2 knots. A diesel would NOT be happy with that routine, but the gas engine is fine with it. (...diesels prefer higher RPM's and longer run times.) So, gas isn't "right" for everybody, but it's a good fit for Whimsy and I on Charlotte Harbor. And, again, there are about 15,000 other gas powered sailboats here in the US that you seldom hear of because gasoline engines aren't what people are selling or buying - gas engines simply not "cool" in sailing circles. However, most power boats ARE gasoline powered. Go figure. ;-)
I have recently been working on an old a4 in a Saber 28. And to pump my oil out I pulled out a plug on the side of the engine and was able to get a 3/8 ID hose right in the oil pan and recovered 4 quarts of oil and replaced it wit 4 quarts of oil....moral of the story if you get as much of the oil out you can of the I believe 5 quart system you get that much more fresh oil back in it. You said about 3 quarts, I would hate for people to suck out 3quarts and call it good year after year that adds up to 1/2 measures......and 1/2 measures avail you nothing
Edit... just looked it up after an overhaul it will take 5 1/2 quarts of oil, and because of angle installed in a sailboat its 4 -4 1/2 quarts for a oil change....just sayin
Okay, so I continued watching this video and can not let it go...your plugs are like that partly because you put oil n such through the engine and nothing fouls a plug like burning oil....I'm not saying MMO is not good for the valves and cylinders and such it is actually really good for it, Moyer marine recommends running it in the gas ...but if you are going to dump it directly into the cylinder and burn it off...why not do that THEN replace plugs?!?!?! As not to FUCK UP NEW PLUGS
I see other issues with this video..so let me close in saying if you have an atomic 4 get Moyer marines manual on it...pure gold also the guys at Moyer know this thing like no one's business. *Mic drop*
Hi Dylan,
Unlike a car that sits on level ground, the proper oil level of an Atomic 4 installed in a boat depends upon the angle of the engine's installation. If your engine is close to level, it may indeed hold 5 quarts of oil or so. If it is near the maximum inclination angle allowed (15 degrees IIRC), it may only "hold" 2.5 quarts of oil. The important thing is that when you have added fresh oil, the level shows at (and not above) the "full" mark on the dipstick.The amount of oil it takes to achieve that level will vary from boat to boat and is NOT a physical characteristic of the engine. Rather, it is all about the angle the engine is installed at. In my boat, that translates to about 3 quarts. Sure, I COULD add 4 quarts to my engine like you do, but that would be too much according to the dipstick measure on MY engine. So, bottom line is: fill to the dipstick level of full on your engine - and no more.
Dylan, Please read the description on this video. I DO note Moyer Marine there, and I DO talk with them, and I have mentioned them in many other comments here - yes, they are invaluable. I do not "dump" MMO into the cylinders, I squirt a small bit of oil into them with a piston grip oiler - less than an ounce. This does not "FUCK UP" new plugs. Furthermore, this video simply shows what I DO on MY ENGINE. It is a 50 year old engine, and I have been running it for 13 of those 50 years now. It still runs. Again, there is NO "specified volume" of oil for an atomic 4 installed in a sailboat because it all depends on the angle of the engine - which varies from boat to boat. The amount of oil you can remove also depends greatly upon the angle of the engine. If you have issues with what I do to care for my engine, I am happy to discuss them with you. However, I will not tolerate the arrogant and condescending attitude you are projecting. Please try to learn how to disagree without being a prick.
Man, that is a clean Morgan! Still own her?
Thanks Zak! Whimsy is very well cared for and loved. Yes, I still own her, and I hope to keep her for as long as I can sail. (She is my "forever boat!") Sadly, her Atomic 4 (the subject of the video) is no longer with her. It was replaced by a Beta 20 diesel last year after 51 years of dependable service.
I hope to complete a major refit (supply chain willing) this coming year in preparation for a Bahamas cruise in 2023. Old Morgan's aren't everybody's cup of tea - but for me, this boat has been ideal! Shoal draft, good speed, sweet balance, easy single-handing, durable construction and pleasing looks are all timeless benefits for me. She will be 53 years old this summer - and going strong! Sail On! 😊
@@TomScottMorgan30 I bet that Beta will be fantastic! I have been looking at the Morgan Out Island 28's, but really like your 30. If they have 6'1 headroom, that might make my shortlist. I am coming down to Charlotte Harbor from Illinois in February to take some ASA sailing courses. Looks like a beautiful sailing area!
Zak, she actually has an honest 6'-2" of headroom. Sadly, there are few Morgan 30's in very good shape anymore. While you can buy them for "cheap", they all seem to need plenty of updating, refitting, and painting. Whimsy will be up at Snead Island Boatworks from January 'till July getting some more "love". If you come down here again after that, you'd be welcome to visit her and see what an old Morgan is all about. She's not perfect, but for what she is - she is excellent!
@@TomScottMorgan30 That sounds great. My parents bought a retirement place in Rotonda West so I should be down often. Can't wait to see her up close. Thanks!
hello this is not the proper place probably .could someone may be inform me on how to winterize this Atomic 4 please. thanks
Moyer Marine to the rescue!
www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=525