I have a similar design: long keel, prop aft of the rudder. Zero prop wash and prop walk kicks the stern to port when going astern. My solution in a cross wind that prevents me getting the bow pointing correctly is to go the wrong way in the marina, away from the exit. Then with momentum, I turn to starboard, pause in neutral then into reverse, the prop walk helps that starboard turn within its own boatlength, and off I go in the correct direction.
Have had a few nightmares in my Halmatic 30 going aft out of the berth.....lol. Best part is learning everytime, thanks for the tips will try this wee cheat.
good information. I have a Cape Dory 25D with full keel and cutaway forefoot. Reversing is ruled by the wind. The bow WILL blow off the wind, period.. In reverse prop walk is to port. In order to turn the stern either direction 100% of the time requires a spring line. In my case I'm sailing in/out of the same slip so my spring line remains attached to the end of the dock.I use the port side so the prop walk helps. As I back out I pay out the line. When the bow exits the slip I start applying drag using a wrap on the port genoa winch to start the bow turning starboard. The more friction I apply the faster she turns. when I'm satisfied I toss the spring line(with weighted end) over board, to be retrieved on return. The weight keeps it hanging start down. Using this method when traveling just requires looping the spring around something so that it can be retrieved.
There are various explanations for "prop-walk", but I don't think that the difference in water pressure at a different depth of 30 cm is large enough to explain this phenomenon. I think the following physical explanation describes the phenomenon more accurate. The prop pushes the water in a circular motion (clockwise or anticlockwise) and also pushes a water-stream forwards or backwards (depending on the direction of the propeller). The water-stream is equal to prop-wash and the prop-walk only corresponds to the circular movement. The circular water movement and the generated water pressure is more or less the same in all directions and decreases steadily depending on the distance from the propeller. The difference in water pressure at a depth of 30 cm is ridiculously small. But what makes a big difference - and this is a more accurate physical explanation for prop-walk - is that the circular water movement encounters resistance below the hull, which builds up a higher water pressure that pushes the hull either to port or starboard. This also means that every prop generates a prop-walk in both directions (starboard AND port) depending on whether the propeller is rotating forwards or backwards. The difference is, while moving forward we do not notice the prop-WALK because the prop-WASH on the rudder is many times greater. Maybe we both are right or wrong with our explanations and maybe in anear future somebody will make a study about this topic. Cheers a.h.
@@ushi120 Thanks for your comments. There are various models for describing effects in fluid dynamics, and they each have their own problems. The problem with the model you prefer is that it doesn’t account for prop-walk on twin rudder boats.
I have an Allied 36 which has full keel with cut away forefoot. The prop is in a aperture forward of the keel attached rudder. My boat prop walks to port when the engine is set to go astern. I am in a double slip like you show with the finger pier to port of my boat. I share the double slip with a quite beamy powerboat who ties up bow in. His maximum beam is at the transom and there is only about 3 feet (1 meter) between the boats. What I do to back out is to set the engine in gear with the rudder turned hard to starboard. With the engine idling in neutral, I walk the boat aft until my lifeline gate is at the end of the finger pier. I then push the stern out as I board the boat, go to the helm and put the engine in reverse at idle. The rudder does nothing initially, but starts to work as the boat picks up speed. Pushing the stern out as I board angles the boat so that the prop walk when the boat starts moving straightens the boat out. One thing I have to remember is not to rev the engine during backing out or the prop walk will turn the boat too much too soon swinging my bow toward my slip mate. I do not want to hit his 2 million dollar boat. Backing out is complicated by the fact that the prevailing wind blows me onto the finger pier, but when my neighbor is there my boat is in his wind shadow until I start to back out. In that case the wind hits my stern first and blows it to port which swings the bow toward my neighbor. I can generally get out single handed in light air, but when the wind is blowing 10 knots or so I forget about leaving single handed and get a dock hand from the marina to hold my bow in as I back out. Backing out is complicated by the fact that my boat goes pretty much where it wants in reverse until I get to about three knots. My boat is far too heavy to use your slingshot line method. Incidentally, putting a sail up is absolutely forbidden in the marina except for rigging the boat. If I tried to leave with a sail up I would get one warning from the marina, the second time I would be expelled from the marina.
Interesting solution - also interesting that you are banned from raising a sail in the marina. At my club quite a lot of boats sail into their berths (mostly XODs with no engines to reduce weight)
@@theboatcheat1204 The marina has too many very expensive boats. Sailing in could easily result in a collision that damages the paint on a multi-million dollar boat. Paint damage on an Awl-Grip painted boat generally requires a full repaint so say $30K minimum.
Hello, we would like to try this idea of getting out of slip with long keel and avoiding getting spun the wrong way by the wind, as our boat has a mind of its own in reverse. Our dock is the same orientation as your diagram. We have an Alberg 30 - right-hand prop. Do you need a block at the bow or can you run the line through the bow chock? We may also try rigging my old Wayfarer jib on the backstay to give the stern more windage to spin me the correct way, bow into the wind (it may be too large and can make something smaller out of an old sail). If you have any other comments on how to back up our Alberg, e.g. Back and Fill? I think we've heard, we are all ears.
Love the cheats! I'll have to try the slingshot line with my Cape Dory 27. I find that in spite of having a 3 blade prop in an aperture ahead of the keel mounted rudder, prop walk is a pretty small force. Departing with more than 15 kts of breeze, I back into the fairway quickly enough to clear the way for the bow to blow down, then use back and fill to spin the boat clockwise. It sometimes takes more than one try to get enough momentum to swing the bow into the wind while convincing the mighty 8 HP Yanmar that we could use a bit of steerage to hold it there, please! Fair winds
I have this problem with this same boat. Im in the spot of the boat on the right. How i do it in that slip. Its unreal how fast that front end gets turned around. Then when backing out in the fairway its a nightmare. Thank you
Hi, great cheats, big thumbs up! Maybe you can help me too. My situation is similar to the one described in this video, except that I need to turn the bow to starboard, when backing out of my slip. As in your video, there is a boat next to mine, that I do not want to scratch with my bow when turning, however, we have almost always a strong wind coming from port side, blowing the bow towards the other boat, and the propwalk also pushes the stern to port and hence the bow to starboard. Do you have a clever idea what I could do? I sail a Compromis 777, she has no midship cleat, and neither has the jetty. Thx and all the best from Portugal, Frank
It sounds as though the technique in this video might help you… it would remove the prop walk because you wouldn’t be using power to reverse, and the bow would be kept to windward by the pull on the line… for the cost of a block it would be worth a go…
I got fed up making a hash of this (we do not even have fingers at our marinas here in Spain), I bought a small electric trolling motor and only use it to push the aft in the right direction
This was my suggestion. I'd buy an aux. motor and rig it. My little catalina 25 I had years ago had an outboard and nothing else. You can swing that in the direction you want to go and that makes getting in/out of a slip a lot easier. The trolling motor up front is effectively a bow thruster. Now you just need a remote for it!
I have to admit that I find this approach somewhat convoluted. If you move the boat aft, so the mid-ship cleat is at the end of the pontoon, and then pull the bow hard into the dock, easing the mid-ship line then it moves the stern to starboard anyway. If you really want to you can run a starboard stern line to the end of the other pontoon and haul on that to pull the stern to starboard. If you reverse out of your berth the boat will also then naturally be pulled to starboard There are many ways to create the steering effect you want on a long keeled boats.
Using a block to help leave is a smashing idea. Keep these cheats coming ✅
I have a similar design: long keel, prop aft of the rudder. Zero prop wash and prop walk kicks the stern to port when going astern. My solution in a cross wind that prevents me getting the bow pointing correctly is to go the wrong way in the marina, away from the exit. Then with momentum, I turn to starboard, pause in neutral then into reverse, the prop walk helps that starboard turn within its own boatlength, and off I go in the correct direction.
Have had a few nightmares in my Halmatic 30 going aft out of the berth.....lol. Best part is learning everytime, thanks for the tips will try this wee cheat.
good information. I have a Cape Dory 25D with full keel and cutaway forefoot. Reversing is ruled by the wind. The bow WILL blow off the wind, period.. In reverse prop walk is to port. In order to turn the stern either direction 100% of the time requires a spring line. In my case I'm sailing in/out of the same slip so my spring line remains attached to the end of the dock.I use the port side so the prop walk helps. As I back out I pay out the line. When the bow exits the slip I start applying drag using a wrap on the port genoa winch to start the bow turning starboard. The more friction I apply the faster she turns. when I'm satisfied I toss the spring line(with weighted end) over board, to be retrieved on return. The weight keeps it hanging start down. Using this method when traveling just requires looping the spring around something so that it can be retrieved.
Sounds like an ingenious solution!
There are various explanations for "prop-walk", but I don't think that the difference in water pressure at a different depth of 30 cm is large enough to explain this phenomenon.
I think the following physical explanation describes the phenomenon more accurate.
The prop pushes the water in a circular motion (clockwise or anticlockwise) and also pushes a water-stream forwards or backwards (depending on the direction of the propeller). The water-stream is equal to prop-wash and the prop-walk only corresponds to the circular movement.
The circular water movement and the generated water pressure is more or less the same in all directions and decreases steadily depending on the distance from the propeller. The difference in water pressure at a depth of 30 cm is ridiculously small.
But what makes a big difference - and this is a more accurate physical explanation for prop-walk - is that the circular water movement encounters resistance below the hull, which builds up a higher water pressure that pushes the hull either to port or starboard.
This also means that every prop generates a prop-walk in both directions (starboard AND port) depending on whether the propeller is rotating forwards or backwards. The difference is, while moving forward we do not notice the prop-WALK because the prop-WASH on the rudder is many times greater.
Maybe we both are right or wrong with our explanations and maybe in anear future somebody will make a study about this topic.
Cheers
a.h.
@@ushi120 Thanks for your comments. There are various models for describing effects in fluid dynamics, and they each have their own problems. The problem with the model you prefer is that it doesn’t account for prop-walk on twin rudder boats.
I have an Allied 36 which has full keel with cut away forefoot. The prop is in a aperture forward of the keel attached rudder. My boat prop walks to port when the engine is set to go astern. I am in a double slip like you show with the finger pier to port of my boat. I share the double slip with a quite beamy powerboat who ties up bow in. His maximum beam is at the transom and there is only about 3 feet (1 meter) between the boats. What I do to back out is to set the engine in gear with the rudder turned hard to starboard. With the engine idling in neutral, I walk the boat aft until my lifeline gate is at the end of the finger pier. I then push the stern out as I board the boat, go to the helm and put the engine in reverse at idle. The rudder does nothing initially, but starts to work as the boat picks up speed. Pushing the stern out as I board angles the boat so that the prop walk when the boat starts moving straightens the boat out. One thing I have to remember is not to rev the engine during backing out or the prop walk will turn the boat too much too soon swinging my bow toward my slip mate. I do not want to hit his 2 million dollar boat. Backing out is complicated by the fact that the prevailing wind blows me onto the finger pier, but when my neighbor is there my boat is in his wind shadow until I start to back out. In that case the wind hits my stern first and blows it to port which swings the bow toward my neighbor. I can generally get out single handed in light air, but when the wind is blowing 10 knots or so I forget about leaving single handed and get a dock hand from the marina to hold my bow in as I back out. Backing out is complicated by the fact that my boat goes pretty much where it wants in reverse until I get to about three knots. My boat is far too heavy to use your slingshot line method.
Incidentally, putting a sail up is absolutely forbidden in the marina except for rigging the boat. If I tried to leave with a sail up I would get one warning from the marina, the second time I would be expelled from the marina.
Interesting solution - also interesting that you are banned from raising a sail in the marina. At my club quite a lot of boats sail into their berths (mostly XODs with no engines to reduce weight)
@@theboatcheat1204 The marina has too many very expensive boats. Sailing in could easily result in a collision that damages the paint on a multi-million dollar boat. Paint damage on an Awl-Grip painted boat generally requires a full repaint so say $30K minimum.
Hello, we would like to try this idea of getting out of slip with long keel and avoiding getting spun the wrong way by the wind, as our boat has a mind of its own in reverse. Our dock is the same orientation as your diagram. We have an Alberg 30 - right-hand prop. Do you need a block at the bow or can you run the line through the bow chock?
We may also try rigging my old Wayfarer jib on the backstay to give the stern more windage to spin me the correct way, bow into the wind (it may be too large and can make something smaller out of an old sail). If you have any other comments on how to back up our Alberg, e.g. Back and Fill? I think we've heard, we are all ears.
A cleat might work, but the block would have less friction so would give you more boat speed and so more steerage.
Love the cheats! I'll have to try the slingshot line with my Cape Dory 27. I find that in spite of having a 3 blade prop in an aperture ahead of the keel mounted rudder, prop walk is a pretty small force. Departing with more than 15 kts of breeze, I back into the fairway quickly enough to clear the way for the bow to blow down, then use back and fill to spin the boat clockwise. It sometimes takes more than one try to get enough momentum to swing the bow into the wind while convincing the mighty 8 HP Yanmar that we could use a bit of steerage to hold it there, please! Fair winds
I have this problem with this same boat. Im in the spot of the boat on the right. How i do it in that slip.
Its unreal how fast that front end gets turned around. Then when backing out in the fairway its a nightmare. Thank you
Our Albin Vega 27 has an outboard motor. And we just push the boat out with our hands in low reverse gear.
Awesome explanation
Thanks 👍😊 I’ll try it out and see how it works. Might take some days, but it seems like it could work 👍 Thanks again 😊
Hi, great cheats, big thumbs up! Maybe you can help me too. My situation is similar to the one described in this video, except that I need to turn the bow to starboard, when backing out of my slip. As in your video, there is a boat next to mine, that I do not want to scratch with my bow when turning, however, we have almost always a strong wind coming from port side, blowing the bow towards the other boat, and the propwalk also pushes the stern to port and hence the bow to starboard. Do you have a clever idea what I could do? I sail a Compromis 777, she has no midship cleat, and neither has the jetty. Thx and all the best from Portugal, Frank
It sounds as though the technique in this video might help you… it would remove the prop walk because you wouldn’t be using power to reverse, and the bow would be kept to windward by the pull on the line… for the cost of a block it would be worth a go…
@@theboatcheat1204 good point, I will give it a try and report. thx again!
I got fed up making a hash of this (we do not even have fingers at our marinas here in Spain), I bought a small electric trolling motor and only use it to push the aft in the right direction
Great solution!
This was my suggestion. I'd buy an aux. motor and rig it. My little catalina 25 I had years ago had an outboard and nothing else. You can swing that in the direction you want to go and that makes getting in/out of a slip a lot easier. The trolling motor up front is effectively a bow thruster. Now you just need a remote for it!
awesome
Wouldn't it make sense to start any of these cheats by moving the boat so midships was already next to the cleat at the end of the dock?
It would. However, that would reduce the range of travel for the ‘slingshot’, and so less speed would be achieved, so possibly less ability to turn.
I have to admit that I find this approach somewhat convoluted. If you move the boat aft, so the mid-ship cleat is at the end of the pontoon, and then pull the bow hard into the dock, easing the mid-ship line then it moves the stern to starboard anyway.
If you really want to you can run a starboard stern line to the end of the other pontoon and haul on that to pull the stern to starboard. If you reverse out of your berth the boat will also then naturally be pulled to starboard
There are many ways to create the steering effect you want on a long keeled boats.
Absolutely - what matters is what works for you… anything that works and is safe…
😃👍👏👏👏