The M has the original valve, The H has a Gresen valve. I'm glad you made this video. Although I'm a real IH man, I don't know much about the belly pumps. The W-4/6/9 series use live hydraulics. Thanks for the video.
Another great video to help those working on these tractors. I always get a chuckle watching your chickens walking around like they are listening to you. 🚀
My H is setup with a later pump and it puts out 750psi on a gauge I bought. 3 point conversion. 3" International cylinder with 8" stroke. I can pick up any reasonable implement for an H. No down pressure however. I'll never go back to a drag type brush hog. For the stuff I mow. The fact I can turn tight as I want with the 3 point and tricycle front end=love it.
the H dad gave me he bought the factory 2 way kit and had it installed the truth about the lyft-all pump they were an option in 1938 and 39s on the F series farmalls and as a after market kit for older F20s F30s. the original pump was a low pressure, low volume system 450psi and fudge a little with upping the pressure to 550psi.. when these wore out you bought the upgrade kit which had bigger gears and a matching center casting and a differnt relief valve spring... the original use the lyft-all was intended for was to be used with the small cylinders of the cultivator, the mounted corn picker the cycle bar mower etc.
I remember when they had the guard that ran over top the hoses! You explained this well! Good job! I priced a seat cover for that Super M I got last week and man have they gone sky high! Need to replace the seat shock absorber as well! I have you to thank for my renewed interest in Farmalls! I watch these videos and just wish I had one again! Now I got one! Let’s see how many more I get a hold of! Lol!!! Hy Tran is fine! Fleet works a collection is driven occasionally but seldom worked! You have. A fleet of Red Power and a nighty nice one
Good video! When i had h/m tractors, i found out the normal hyd pressure was 400 psi. Super h/m had 800 psi. the larger the cylinder on the older tractors, the more useful it was. I "dedicated" a large cyl and lines to the tractor. heavy oil will make it pick up more also.
Two of the ports where for the front cultivators. The other is a delayed lift for the rear gang. I Use 30 weight non detergent in my belly pumps. You can increase the pressure on early pumps by installing the later relief valve spring. or shimming the original spring with a washer. The live pump that is stacked beterrn the drive and ignition are a handy upgrade.
I bought my very first tractor a year ago its a 1962 B-414, got her up an running finally. Glad I ran a crossed this video I was debating on what fluid to run for the hydraulics. Thank you very much for the information much appreciated.
She's a stout little acreage tractor for my use at least. I have a 6' bush hog on it an works great. Also have a 8 row disc I use for my garden area. Picked it up for 1,400 bucks with the mower disc an 6' blade. Granted it didn't run do to missing plug wires, but I took a gamble an I think I won that gamble.
Thank you for your videos and info. I have inherited a Farmall Super A. . It does not have hydraulics on it, and the local yokels hereabouts say it's not worth doing. How else am I going to cut the grass? With scissors, lol?
I agree with you on that fluid we're the same way several pieces here that we run with the newer tractors and also the older ones and I just run high training the whole fleet and ours is a fleeting on the collection they're kind of pretty most of them and we try and keep up with the paint just like the rest of the maintenance but they are a working fleet enjoy that video I'm going to remember that I had a couple old ones like that here that are set up with just a one-way hydraulic and I wouldn't mind changing them over so we had two-way
Great info FF...always helping people enjoyed it...love seeing all that red lined up...you should make a red pwr calendar. Funny getting photo bombed by your rooster💪🏻
I have my M plumbed similar to your H but with the return going through the drain plug because whenever I lowered my cylinder it was pushing fluid out the breather hole on the fill cap. I was losing more fluid that way and I like my tractors to be Red not black.
If you had to guess. How much would you say a set up like that would cost? It's was the exact video I needed. I'm about to buy a H and need to set up hydraulics. And where would I get the fitting with the dipstick?
I added a 3 point hitch on my H, added a 2 spool valve and plumbed the return in the drain plug of the belly pump via a Tee. Replaced the fill cap with a dual hole breather so no pressure builds. Installed a pressure valve and get 850 psi out of the belly pump
@@FarmallFanatic it works really well. Also installed a shut off valve right before the 2 spool valve. I picked up a 3pt log splitter, throw the shut off valve to off position and I get hydraulic power from the rear port on the other side of the tractor for the splitter. Just have to adjust the height of the splitter where I want before throwing the lever on the shut off valve. They really made a solid machine back in the late 40's...
Hey Farmall Fanatic, thanks for this video and many others. I have a 56 Farmall 400 with a loader to push snow and I’ve watched several videos. I am looking to hook up a small cultivator or small disc. My question is, with that loader being hooked up would I not be able to use hydrolics for an attachment at the same time? My tractor has two ports coming out the back under the seat and a third lever, two of which are used to raise and tilt the bucket. Let me know your thoughts, thank you!
I use a H international 3 point i move hay 5x6 round bails how much weight ahoukd i out on front to keep from wheeling can back up with hay no problems but forwards it wants to popup
In Australia different ways of driving non genuine pumps off the front of the motor over the years which means you don't loose your hydraulics when you hit the clutch similar things have been done to grey fergies etc
@@FarmallFanatic thank you so much! This video was very helpful! I am putting a woods belly mower on my H for the first time and this video was perfect.
Question. When I pull that rod my engine wants to start bogging down as I release the clutch slowly so I push clutch back down. I think the pump is locked up/ And afraid it will break something in there.
Hi FF! Sometime or other could you explain the difference in the wide front on your H and other wide fronts like the one on your M. Your H has the first wide front axle I've seen on a Farmall that sticks out past the front end of the tractor. Also I'd say you have a fleet. LOVE the RED POWER line up by the way!
Question(s): I’m new to the Farmall H world. (Grew up with a Super C) Does the hydraulic pump fluid reservoir communicate with any other reservoirs of fluid? (Gear box, tranny, etc). OR, is the hydraulic reservoir dedicated to just the belly mount hydraulic pump?
@@FarmallFanatic Sir, sorry to keep at this. You stated to use 30W. But it IS ok to use 10W Hytran? Thanks for ur time…your video and the willingness to answer questions from a newbie.
Gonna have to go look, but I think our Super H w/TA has a cover where the hoses run across the platform. As far as the hydraulic system's go on this era of tractor's, the 2 cylinder John Deere's are ahead of the class.
I agree with that. However, IH on their standard tractors of that era did use live hydraulics. They came later in the late 40s. I don't understand why they kept the belly pump as long as they did when a better system was already offered on the W-4, W-6, and W-9 counterparts. Is your super H with the TA real or does it have a 300 or 350 rear end?
I was curious on mine it has the 2 ports on the left side plugged and on the right side it has 1 hydralic line coming back to the rear. What does that mean?
You mention throttle assembly needing deeper grooves. I can not see if your is the pointed or the square teeth. If you do have the pointed teeth, I would recommend the square teeth. In my book, they are a lot nicer and do not move by themselves.
@@FarmallFanatic H's have hard valve seats from the factory. the distillate did not have lead. Many where converted to LP. We never had a muffler or pipe of our tractors we used in the logging woods. it woul of caught a branch that swatted you when it went past the muffler or broke the cast iron manifold if it would not bend. Never harmed it a bit.
We actually put an old hand operated hydraulic pump on the side of our farmall c to do just that. It’s a little slow but works great with the single acting cylinders. It’s nice for when we need the big raking and tedding tractor for a different job.
I have a farmall 560 that my grandpa dropped a 454 big block Chevy engine in. The draw bar doesn’t go up and down and I can’t figure out how to fix it. Could anyone help me?
I don't know anything about these tractors but I've wanted one for the last 4 years. I found one for sale and wasn't going to get it with my wife's Blessings it was sold but I still located it which made me think she was my girl.
Hi-train does not have detergent in it, which causes air bubbles in the oil. All motor oil has detergent in it. Hydraulic oil does not. The air bubbles cause the lift cylinders to move when you don't want them to move. Most cylinders do travel from one end to the other, but not always. Sometime you will only want to move the hydraulic cylinder just 1 inch or so. With detergent in your oil, that become more difficult to do, and the cylinder can move a fraction of an inch or so when you don't want to.
I run SAE 30 and plumbed in a filter on the return side right before the drain of belly pump, beat practice to return the oil there in lieu of the top of the reservoir fill tube. That mixes air into the oil
Yeah I believe the super h and the wd45 dont have them. But in due time. I will say this, I see how close your fenders are, I like the spacers on mine the extra room is very nice
Speaking of hydraulics, today I cracked the housing on the Christmas tree valve on my super M TA while installing a hydraulic hose. I tighten the hose too much and split it on one end. It's cast iron and does anyone have any suggestions on how to repair it?
I'm one whe doesn't know much. You kept mentioning the rod but never gave any instructrions on how it works or it's purpose. If you will, try again on that part. Thanks
Hello I could be wrong but I dont think they had good quality hydraulic oil back then they ,,,,all tractors used 30 weight oil for hydraulics. Have a great night
The M has the original valve, The H has a Gresen valve. I'm glad you made this video. Although I'm a real IH man, I don't know much about the belly pumps. The W-4/6/9 series use live hydraulics. Thanks for the video.
Another great video to help those working on these tractors. I always get a chuckle watching your chickens walking around like they are listening to you. 🚀
If they are like small dogs they actually get under your feet
A 'B' or "BN' would round out that set pretty well. Great video.
BN
@@FarmallFanatic Single nose wheel? And a Cub because if you've gone this far may as well complete the set.
My H is setup with a later pump and it puts out 750psi on a gauge I bought.
3 point conversion. 3" International cylinder with 8" stroke. I can pick up any reasonable implement for an H.
No down pressure however.
I'll never go back to a drag type brush hog. For the stuff I mow. The fact I can turn tight as I want with the 3 point and tricycle front end=love it.
750 is good 👍
@@FarmallFanatic that's on 30w non detergent too
Thank you farmall fanatic for the great info about H hydraulics.
You're welcome
Lots of really great info ! You was missing the 400 in the line up . Thanks for sharing !
the H dad gave me he bought the factory 2 way kit and had it installed
the truth about the lyft-all pump they were an option in 1938 and 39s on the F series farmalls and as a after market kit for older F20s F30s.
the original pump was a low pressure, low volume system 450psi and fudge a little with upping the pressure to 550psi.. when these wore out you bought the upgrade kit which had bigger gears and a matching center casting and a differnt relief valve spring...
the original use the lyft-all was intended for was to be used with the small cylinders of the cultivator, the mounted corn picker the cycle bar mower etc.
Interesting history
I remember when they had the guard that ran over top the hoses! You explained this well! Good job! I priced a seat cover for that Super M I got last week and man have they gone sky high! Need to replace the seat shock absorber as well! I have you to thank for my renewed interest in Farmalls! I watch these videos and just wish I had one again! Now I got one! Let’s see how many more I get a hold of! Lol!!! Hy Tran is fine! Fleet works a collection is driven occasionally but seldom worked! You have. A fleet of Red Power and a nighty nice one
Super M is a great place to start that's for sure
@@FarmallFanatic couldn’t pass it up! Not often red power comes for sale here!
Good video! When i had h/m tractors, i found out the normal hyd pressure was 400 psi. Super h/m had 800 psi. the larger the cylinder on the older tractors, the more useful it was. I "dedicated" a large cyl and lines to the tractor. heavy oil will make it pick up more also.
True
Nice job explaining , thanks
Need my Super A industrial out there!
You know it 👍
I watched every ad too. Nice video. 👍Eaglegards...
Hopefully it wasn't the dreaded 50 minute ad
Two of the ports where for the front cultivators. The other is a delayed lift for the rear gang. I Use 30 weight non detergent in my belly pumps. You can increase the pressure on early pumps by installing the later relief valve spring. or shimming the original spring with a washer. The live pump that is stacked beterrn the drive and ignition are a handy upgrade.
I bought my very first tractor a year ago its a 1962 B-414, got her up an running finally. Glad I ran a crossed this video I was debating on what fluid to run for the hydraulics. Thank you very much for the information much appreciated.
I just saw a B-414 for sale at auction...it's the first one I ever saw in real life
She's a stout little acreage tractor for my use at least. I have a 6' bush hog on it an works great. Also have a 8 row disc I use for my garden area. Picked it up for 1,400 bucks with the mower disc an 6' blade. Granted it didn't run do to missing plug wires, but I took a gamble an I think I won that gamble.
@@FarmallFanatic it's a nice little tractor for me.
@@DaPittBull911 yes, you won 🏆
Great info! Nice to see most of the lineup there :)
All report for duty tomorrow 🙌
Thank you for your videos and info. I have inherited a Farmall Super A. . It does not have hydraulics on it, and the local yokels hereabouts say it's not worth doing.
How else am I going to cut the grass? With scissors, lol?
I agree with you on that fluid we're the same way several pieces here that we run with the newer tractors and also the older ones and I just run high training the whole fleet and ours is a fleeting on the collection they're kind of pretty most of them and we try and keep up with the paint just like the rest of the maintenance but they are a working fleet enjoy that video I'm going to remember that I had a couple old ones like that here that are set up with just a one-way hydraulic and I wouldn't mind changing them over so we had two-way
Great info FF...always helping people enjoyed it...love seeing all that red lined up...you should make a red pwr calendar. Funny getting photo bombed by your rooster💪🏻
I have my M plumbed similar to your H but with the return going through the drain plug because whenever I lowered my cylinder it was pushing fluid out the breather hole on the fill cap. I was losing more fluid that way and I like my tractors to be Red not black.
Ahahahahahahaha 🤣 oh man
If you had to guess. How much would you say a set up like that would cost? It's was the exact video I needed. I'm about to buy a H and need to set up hydraulics. And where would I get the fitting with the dipstick?
Check Steiners
I added a 3 point hitch on my H, added a 2 spool valve and plumbed the return in the drain plug of the belly pump via a Tee. Replaced the fill cap with a dual hole breather so no pressure builds. Installed a pressure valve and get 850 psi out of the belly pump
That's excellent
@@FarmallFanatic it works really well. Also installed a shut off valve right before the 2 spool valve. I picked up a 3pt log splitter, throw the shut off valve to off position and I get hydraulic power from the rear port on the other side of the tractor for the splitter. Just have to adjust the height of the splitter where I want before throwing the lever on the shut off valve. They really made a solid machine back in the late 40's...
@@FarmallFanatic plumbing the return line in to the drain of the belly pump prevents mixing a bunch of air into the hydraulic oil.
Great info and collection of red power! BOOM
Hey Farmall Fanatic, thanks for this video and many others. I have a 56 Farmall 400 with a loader to push snow and I’ve watched several videos. I am looking to hook up a small cultivator or small disc. My question is, with that loader being hooked up would I not be able to use hydrolics for an attachment at the same time? My tractor has two ports coming out the back under the seat and a third lever, two of which are used to raise and tilt the bucket. Let me know your thoughts, thank you!
What I do is I set the loader at a certain height and then unplug it... And in theory it should stay in place
@@FarmallFanatic okay thank you. So if it stays in place that means I’ll be able to hook up an implement and be able to lift that?
@@ericstaebler5255 yes
@@FarmallFanatic awesome, thank you!!
How much hydraulic oil does it take to fill the M series? How do you check it? Is there a fill line anywhere?
My M has a dipstick on it, but believe me, when the dipstick says full.. you're not full enough... Fill it till it works
What's the pipe called that extends the top of the dipstick so you can hook up a Christmas tree valve and where can I find it?
I'm not sure what it's called. But you should be able to find a complete Christmas tree assembly.
I use a H international 3 point i move hay 5x6 round bails how much weight ahoukd i out on front to keep from wheeling can back up with hay no problems but forwards it wants to popup
A couple hundred pounds up front would handle it
What do you think a fair price for a very nice restored Farmall 130 is with new tires ?
Very much appreciate any input
Does it have the one point fast hitch?
Yes
In Australia different ways of driving non genuine pumps off the front of the motor over the years which means you don't loose your hydraulics when you hit the clutch similar things have been done to grey fergies etc
They just run them off the distributor here
Does the belly pump share the same fluid as the rear end housing? Or is it separate
Separate I would recommend thirty weight oil
@@FarmallFanatic thank you so much! This video was very helpful! I am putting a woods belly mower on my H for the first time and this video was perfect.
@@ryanmcbride7547 right on 👍
I'm wondering if an M belly pump will run hydraulic feed on a chipper ?
It would b worth a try
@@FarmallFanatic I'm going to fab up a 3 point hitch and try it. L3200 kabota is only like 6.5 gpm and its way more oil than it needs.
Are you putting fenders on the super C
Definitely
I like the wide front on the H, you don’t see many. I have one I am restoring and have a wide for it. Nice looking H
I think it increases the value of the tractor
@@FarmallFanatic my farm is hilly and the wide gives it more stability also. I would definitely pay more for a wide front end H.
Thanks for the info. Great vedio !!
Question. When I pull that rod my engine wants to start bogging down as I release the clutch slowly so I push clutch back down. I think the pump is locked up/ And afraid it will break something in there.
You can switch the pumps out without too much problem they are fairly heavy
Hi FF! Sometime or other could you explain the difference in the wide front on your H and other wide fronts like the one on your M. Your H has the first wide front axle I've seen on a Farmall that sticks out past the front end of the tractor. Also I'd say you have a fleet. LOVE the RED POWER line up by the way!
There's a plate that allows you to put it under the tractor
@@FarmallFanatic Ok thanks I've wondered about that.
Those were originally part of a sugar beet picking attachment, never seen one but that extended front end gives it away. Nice video!
Nice set up for the Hydraulics on the H, did you start Harvest on your Beans yet?
Hope all is well Bud👍
no the stalks are still green here
Awesome video as usual, looks like you just need a Cub, a BN And of course a 1066 🤣🤣👍🇺🇸🚜
No argument
Question(s): I’m new to the Farmall H world. (Grew up with a Super C)
Does the hydraulic pump fluid reservoir communicate with any other reservoirs of fluid? (Gear box, tranny, etc). OR, is the hydraulic reservoir dedicated to just the belly mount hydraulic pump?
It's dedicated but I would still use thirty weight oil.
@@FarmallFanatic thanks. But using Hytran (as you mentioned) is ok? I’m unsure of the weight of the Hytran
@@7Michael.E HyTran is the best...it's 10 weight
@@FarmallFanatic Sir, sorry to keep at this. You stated to use 30W. But it IS ok to use 10W Hytran? Thanks for ur time…your video and the willingness to answer questions from a newbie.
@@7Michael.E 30 weight for a weaker pump...HyTran as long as it still lifts your cylinder
I need to get a remote valve on my Fordson. There is so much you can do with them.
It's a game changer
Gonna have to go look, but I think our Super H w/TA has a cover where the hoses run across the platform. As far as the hydraulic system's go on this era of tractor's, the 2 cylinder John Deere's are ahead of the class.
I don't know if I've ever seen a Johnny Popper with a remote
I agree with that. However, IH on their standard tractors of that era did use live hydraulics. They came later in the late 40s. I don't understand why they kept the belly pump as long as they did when a better system was already offered on the W-4, W-6, and W-9 counterparts. Is your super H with the TA real or does it have a 300 or 350 rear end?
If starting from scratch, where would you recommend getting the cylinder and other items from?
I can't really recommend one specific company to buy them off of, but I would go brand new if I planned on keeping the tractor.
I had one other question. When using the pto on the rear what fluid lubricates it? The thick gear oil or the hydralic oil?
Gear oil
Excellent videos lately! 👍
Another great video FF, many thanks!!
Looking forward to your explanation on difference between a fleet and a collection 🍻🍻🍻
💣 Beep Beep 💥
Ahahahahahahaha Beebeep 🤣
Great video 👍 lot o useful information on there 💪💥👍
I was curious on mine it has the 2 ports on the left side plugged and on the right side it has 1 hydralic line coming back to the rear. What does that mean?
That's originally how they were set up. I've seen some of the single line cylinders around
@@FarmallFanatic thank you I appreciate your videos! Love all the old farmalls
Thanks for the video!
You mention throttle assembly needing deeper grooves. I can not see if your is the pointed or the square teeth. If you do have the pointed teeth, I would recommend the square teeth. In my book, they are a lot nicer and do not move by themselves.
I have the pointed and the square ready to install
@@FarmallFanatic I forsee a "how to" video from you on that swap 👍💪💪
damn!! good looking FLEET!!
What yea is that H? Has way long rear axles like A Super H.
49
On your M the hoses are run under a factory available hose holder . They are worth something for the right guy
No doubt
Great video!
Would operating a Farmall H without the muffler wear the engine?
Unless you've put the hardened valves in it yes
@@FarmallFanatic H's have hard valve seats from the factory. the distillate did not have lead. Many where converted to LP. We never had a muffler or pipe of our tractors we used in the logging woods. it woul of caught a branch that swatted you when it went past the muffler or broke the cast iron manifold if it would not bend. Never harmed it a bit.
We should talk about how to get live pto or live hydraulic on a M
Well live p t o was the m and w hand clutch. Live hydraulics you're gonna have to have a separate pump
Love the Red Power!
Great info ff. Now tell me how to make the hydraulics on one of those older farmalls lift a rotary rake or fold a hydraulic fold Tedder. Take care.
A cylinder about the size of a house
We actually put an old hand operated hydraulic pump on the side of our farmall c to do just that. It’s a little slow but works great with the single acting cylinders. It’s nice for when we need the big raking and tedding tractor for a different job.
Random question what's the plug gap on a 45 h 6 volt still
I set mine at 24...works good
@@FarmallFanatic thank ya sir
I have a farmall 560 that my grandpa dropped a 454 big block Chevy engine in. The draw bar doesn’t go up and down and I can’t figure out how to fix it. Could anyone help me?
First things first check the fluid levels
I don't know anything about these tractors but I've wanted one for the last 4 years. I found one for sale and wasn't going to get it with my wife's
Blessings it was sold but I still located it which made me think she was my girl.
Tell your wife you got it for free 🤣
Spring inside oump would break and go thru the geas
Hi-train does not have detergent in it, which causes air bubbles in the oil. All motor oil has detergent in it. Hydraulic oil does not. The air bubbles cause the lift cylinders to move when you don't want them to move. Most cylinders do travel from one end to the other, but not always. Sometime you will only want to move the hydraulic cylinder just 1 inch or so. With detergent in your oil, that become more difficult to do, and the cylinder can move a fraction of an inch or so when you don't want to.
I run SAE 30 and plumbed in a filter on the return side right before the drain of belly pump, beat practice to return the oil there in lieu of the top of the reservoir fill tube. That mixes air into the oil
Caterpillar does use engine oil for hydraulics and it doesn't bother at all.
I'll have to plumb the super h for hydraulic lines
I'm not saying I wouldn't own a tractor without them because I do but they sure are handy
Yeah I believe the super h and the wd45 dont have them. But in due time. I will say this, I see how close your fenders are, I like the spacers on mine the extra room is very nice
The Super H with live hydraulics is more complicated, but I have mine just doing single acting for a blade right now.
@@lynnhavenfarm8514 definitely
Not only is hy-tran good for hydraulics, but also good for a motorcycles primary.
Yep
Speaking of hydraulics, today I cracked the housing on the Christmas tree valve on my super M TA while installing a hydraulic hose. I tighten the hose too much and split it on one end. It's cast iron and does anyone have any suggestions on how to repair it?
This is gonna sound crazy but there's something like JB weld, but stronger and I watched a guy put that over a similar break and it worked.
@@FarmallFanatic I googled jb weld and it is supposed to handle up to 3500 psi. I think I'm going to try that. Thanks for the reply!
I had a #5 jd sickle mower on a h farmall cutting hay back in the 80s beep beep
That would work
Thanks
Looks great
I'm one whe doesn't know much. You kept mentioning the rod but never gave any instructrions on how it works or it's purpose. If you will, try again on that part. Thanks
Oh it will be mentioned and shown a lot
Regulators mount up
If you want more pressure yet find a char - Lynn pump
No doubt
Red Power 💪❤️ Boom
Let's go Let's grow 😡 🤣
You need a belt operated implement for that belt pulley 😉
Well actually that buzz saw can run off a belt or PTO
@@FarmallFanatic Do iiiiiit! Buzz saws are terrifying but I love the sound they make!
Hello you have a contact number to discuss if I should purchase a Farmall Super H.
Farmall Fanatic on Facebook
Twice as nice as spice
😅
👍👍
Hytran is the way to go.
I'm that guy who needs to be talked to like I know nothing. I know some, but I'd rather have ALL the info.
I prefer that as well
Hello I could be wrong but I dont think they had good quality hydraulic oil back then they ,,,,all tractors used 30 weight oil for hydraulics. Have a great night
You are correct
More chickens
🐔🐓
Chicken
👋👋👋☕️☕️☕️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👀👀👀
U are neglecting the best tractor, sell the H cheap ASAP!
There aint enough money in the world