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How do I handle floor molding transition from a tile to carpet surface? The tile is about 1/4 higher. Do I just line up the top of the molding and hope the carpet guys tuck the carpet under?
My wife bought me a laser guided power miter saw when we bought our first flipper/fixer-upper. It allowed me to miscut things with a lot greater accuracy.
I didn't have a belt sander, I just got in my car, and with my door open a bit, held the piece to the ground while I drove to the dispensary. Worked pretty good. Theres a rough edge, but you can't see it if you look from a certain angle.
Good tip. Also, I’ve found this is caused by the taper leaving extra mud at the bottom of the corner bead. Sometimes you can simply scrape the corner in either side with a flat bar and it’ll gain back that 1/16”, hopefully saving you a trip to the belt sander.
Or measure to the sheetrock corner and cut the miter at 46 degrees. That extends the Long point out to compensate for the out of square corner. Also put a return on that short piece on the left and you will a better looking end as you're coming up the stairs. Caulk the top of Base , fill the nail holes and paint it. All done. Finish Carpenter
@@soniaskolnick3868 You cut a 45% angle on the end that goes into the stair string, and another small 45% returned into the wall. 2 part superglue works well for sticking the little piece on.
I always cut at a 46 as well. I also cut both pieces about 1/32 long and put both piece in, nail the corner last so I can match it up perfect. Caulk the top, spackle the seams and nail holes, paint and it looks perfect
Lots of places sell nice miter equipment. None of them offers training on correct usage and calculations. You had me hooked in with the exasperation expressions! I have lived this......
Fantastic and you capture the circumstances perfectly. and that breath exhale haha. Its the last piece of baseboard :) or any task thats occurring at the end of a lo-o-o-ng day, a while between breaks, where you just drift concentration slightly. Then Mr Murphy strikes! he is always sitting on your shoulder. You recovered the situation and to give credit where its due thats where the mistakes provide sooo much learning. Keep up the good humour and good vids.
Thank you! For novice people like me, who would keep cutting ends at different angles in an attempt to match , this if very handy. I don't mind using a "bit" of wood filler, silicone, etc., but learning tricks of trade to make the best fit possible, even if it takes a little more time is a great life lesson. This is a very good method of taking "just a bit at at time" to make it a very good fit.
A miter gauge helps a lot and after installing 1000s of feet of this stuff over very crooked walls and floors it’s almost never straight forward, the scribe comes out to get your work to be as tight as possible. Being able to set your gear up as close as possible to your work area actually saves time and “sets you up” for really tight work. Using both a dust barrier be it zip pole or handy masker and film, and a vac on your tools allows you to work in lived in areas. Either way you are spending time and effort, I say, spend it efficiently setting up to work efficiently getting your best ever work, every time. Makes the time you spend doing this so much more enjoyable. This was funny as hell, keep up the great content homey!
Good point on the set-up. I always like to get into a nice space that isn't crowded and then set up all my stuff in the same orientation every time if possible. Thanks for checking out the channel, I appreciate it!
No fluff is the key word(s).. Too many videos are filled with 90% rambling about their skills or what others do wrong. This guy is a breath of fresh air
As someone who’s done carpentry for 16 years, (300+ pieces of baseboard just yesterday!) I can tell you that this “fix” takes 8 times longer than simply replacing the short piece. Even faster: remove the short piece and simply slide it 1/16” over and re-nail it. In this case the left side will now have a small gap but it will get caulked. Another tip: unless the baseboard is abnormally tall, or you have a fisher-price miter saw, you can usually stand it upright on the miter saw for cutting those angles; you don’t have to put the saw on a compound angle.
I'm not even a professional but yeah, I think you're right. You gonna tell me you don't have a piece of cutoff scrap in that length? Yeah, right. Just replace it, so much faster, or yes, move it over and caulk the straight gap.
Either way you’re walking back to the saw. So realistically maybe 1.2 times as long🙃. I like cutting on flat, especially with the Kapex. I made a video showing a handy tip that will work for crown, furniture kick, etc. You’d be wrong assuming I’d cut that piece short under regular circumstances. 🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenter All I can say is that for me, in the time that it takes to prepare the belt sander I could’ve made the one to three cuts needed to make the piece. But if I were cutting with compound angles I’d consider using a belt sander IF it were already plugged in and ready.
I 100% agree with you. Just finished doing 1000 sq foot of trim. I just bring the saw in the house and make the cut. Lets be honest if worse I cut at 46 degrees and use DAP. This is over dramatic.
The context you said was it’s your last piece and you don’t want to go to the store. At this point your video is actually a great way to think of an alternative.
Best part: You’re a carpentry guru! Then it doesn’t fit! With the music and sound effects. I’m still rolling! 😂 I thought dude was totally serious! He got me good!😎
Love the presentation and most of all-professionalism! I am a musician that also do most repairs at home myself due to lack of skills of many in the construction business... Sarcasm and music in addition to your skills are appreciated! :) You set an great example.
This is a good trick. Most of the comments below reflect paint grade work. Try doing it with stained material. Sanding the back, and back cutting the miter works best. Remember that when the mud goes on the corner, its always put on heavy for 6-10". Thats the only part that needs sanding... Great vid
Joint compound. Works beautifully. Overfill gaps (along top and bottom too). Let it stick out a little for shrinage. When dry, damp sponge to flush in seconds.
Brilliant! I been looking for various problem solving tips because I'm dealing with walls that are not flat, straight, or square. Back when they built my house, they finished the walls with 1/2 sheetrock and COPIOUS amounts of plaster. Patching or replacing drywall throughout the house has been the ultimate trial by fire since I'm self-taught and this is my first house.
I remember the first time I used a belt sander. I put the piece of wood on a work surface (not thinking about clamping it) . Put the belt to the board, and zing!! The board shot off the work table and into the wall, creating a nice hole in the drywall. Even more funny was my wife and I both watched the board as it flew into the wall . . just like you would see in a comedy show. We still laugh about this over 30 years later. One of the fun memories we have of building our house. That was a great tip.
Recently kicked out a 10-year tenant and had to repair /replace a lot of stuff. I literally had to do exactly this when installing new trim. Nice video!
My late Dad was a joiner, learnt his trade in the shipyards on the Tyne in the 30's cut mitres, mortice and tenons by hand as cabinet making was part of his apprenticeship. No power tools in those days just real craftsmen.
That’s awesome! I like checking out houses from that era, the carpenters didn’t specialize back then so they would built everything on-site with like you said their hand tools.
I'm 67. Never had power tools till turned 35 and by then just DIYing (in heavy duty way for self, friends, and family. Bosch green range was mostly excellent
For anyone afraid of their ability to rectify the problem with sanders etc, sawdust and carpenters white glue mixed together fills up the gap and can be sanded off to perfection later
Dude that intro was spot on!!!! I was getting frustrated jusr remembering. "I'm a woodworker with lots of expensive tools, of course it will fit!" Lmfao!!!!!! 👍🏼🤣
I like your style. +1 TH-cam how to fix your F*ckups, proceed to big box store and buy new tool that has 0 to do with original problem. Come home and stare at unfinished bathroom with discontent for $$ you just spent on stupid stuff you didn’t need.
I have been a carpenter since middle school, professionally since I was 21, I am 37 now, and I still try to put myself around the old timers whenever possible so I can pick up tricks from them. I've not seen this trick done before; very clever. I am still learning.
When I worked in the trade we just used the board stretcher...worked all the time. The real trick is not allowing this to happen and THATS where the art of carpentry truly is, and there is a few tricks to do that. Here is some hints...items in your toolbelt; pencil, knife, 2 small flathead screwdrivers, finishing hammer, small sandpaper block, a small piece of trim cut at a perfect 45(both ends or have 2 with each having different end cut at 45), glue bottle and for last resort...measuring tape(seldom used)...HAVE CHOP SAW IN THE SAME ROOM AS YOU ARE WORKING IN OR VERY NEAR BY. When cutting, think in terms of heel and toe and in hair thicknesses. In the trade we often worked in pairs, one doing the sizing(measuring) and the pinning and the other the cutting. OH...and do the corners 1st and trim to size on the straight ends if possible. Most professionals will bead the top of the trim with silicone, white or clear, if wall is finished with paint or wallpaper.
So...realistically, you should never nail in the trim at corners until you test fit the pieces since it appears you might have cut the shorter piece on the left too short and positioned it wrong. I always pinch the corner and do a test and then nail with all pieces in place.
I always take my measurements on the wall at the top of the base. It helps minimize gaps. If an outside miter is closed at the top but open at the bottom I scrape any mud at the corner, if that doesn't work I plane the backside of base until miter closes. We always use construction adhesive so if I plane too much off it's no prob cuz the adhesive will act like a shim when it dries.
Make you right. Fart arsing about not needed..but if your doing top notch work like hardwood panelling your gonna get your bevel out to get those little mitres spot on.
2:47 Nicely done, problem might be that such work in private homes is done only once. So people do not buy all the equipment and tools that usually only a professional cabinetmaker's workshop has?
So glad to see this. I feel safe in the knowledge that the way I fixed the same problem 2 weeks age with an angle grinder and a flap disc, wasn't as bad as SWMBO told me it was.
When I watched this video I was sure this guy was in my bathroom snooping around the woodwork. Your crack fitting was good, I use latex calking, and lots of it, if that doesn’t cover the cracks, all I do is put a small waste basket or vase of flowers in front of the corner, works every time. But I will try your method next time. E.J.
Hold skirt to Wall on both sides, small pencil line on floor, strike through the points, (wall corner to pencil line crossing point) Bevel it and take to the mitre saw, measure from pencil to end, mitre cut, glue, then pin. But a very nice fix for a easy mistake we all have made.
When installing moldings, always do the outside corners first and test-fit. If you're not positive about length cut a bit long then trim as needed. 45 degree angles are for casing moldings, baseboard is always 44 inside and 46 outside. Better to cut outside joints a hair long, fit both pieces of the base together with glue, then let the base float off the wall as needed. Top trick here: run a small vertical bead of caulk just back from the corner on both sides when assembling to prevent the floated corner from being pushed inward later on. Stain grade requires more precise fitting so I keep a pair of roughly 16" long pieces of scrap base on hand with 46 cuts on both ends and use them to test the outside corner before measuring or cutting, if the 46 doesn't work use the scrap to test an adjusted angle. Hold them in place properly fitted and draw a line on the floor on both sides. Measure to the outside of those lines then erase them while it's easy. This makes each part one pencil line width too long and ensures a tight corner every time. Outside crown corners are done the same way. If the ceiling has finish paint on it,instead of a pencil line mark, lightly score with a razor knife instead and allow a hair extra in measuring. Drywall corners are never finished straight and flat, they always curve some. Using the 16" test pieces ensures you are bridging that curve to where the finished piece will actually lay when installed. Using too-short test pieces will land you in that curve and cause errors. You can use a similar technique and 44 degree angles for inside corners. Just remember after finding the angle with your test pieces to re-cut them back to 46 or 44 before checking and fitting the next corner.
Cut angles first, then adjust the length of the pieces with straight cuts at the other end. Always cut a shade too long. You can always cut again. Also, test fit before securing permanently.
Interesting solution. A couple of other suggestions though. Measurements are always subject to error. Better to hold the piece on the wall, then hold another piece of molding on the other wall (on top) and with a very sharp pencil draw a line on top of the lower molding to mark the inside point of the miter. On the "short piece", you just cut the end by the stairs square. It ideally should have a return cut on the end and a return piece glued in, or depending on how you want it to look, If you don't have an angle gauge to show the exact angle of the corner, a bevel gauge and a plastic compass (from high school) can be used to get the exact angle needed.
Bang on about returning the butt end. All the other butt ends in my house are done the same way, so I didn't want to introduce a new look. Marking the piece they way you suggest is a good suggestion for a piece or two, but it's no way to trim out a house or an apartment building. I just cut the piece short for the purpose of the video and to share a cool trick. Lol in reality I would be measuring and cutting to the 64th all day(unhumble brag). Thanks for checking out the vid!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter You'd be surprised how fast it goes. Just finished helping a friend of mine finish his basement, and the only time we measured was when the piece was an "inside corner to inside corner", and even then the measurement didn't have to be exact as one end is coped, and the other end left square for the next piece to cope into, so leaving it 3/16 short was fine. Granted, we had the chop saw in the room where we were doing all the cuts (or in the next area) so no great time loss going back and forth.
Cut 46 degrees on next piece to be installed, also base should t ie directly into skirtboard, if ya know what your doing. 🤔 Usually 20 degree cuts give or take a couple degrees. If you'd like use 2 pieces of dummy wood and mock up your cuts ,before final install
Great video! Block planes, even the tiny guys, work pretty good for board stretching too. It may require a bit of elbow grease depending on harder material but softer stuff like mbf, hemlock, n pine should b easy.
That is awesome. I will keep this in mind. A lot easier than going back to hardware store twice before finally deciding the only option is to sell the house.
Thanks for the useful tip. Too bad I didn't learn it 20 years ago. The music could use dialing back a bit or eliminating. Near the end I could hardly hear you over the music. I don't think the readers will miss any of it.
Great idea! My fix was to change the miter saw angle until I found the degree that fits perfectly. The problem with my method is you waste alot baseboard with the hundreds of test cuts. If only dry wallers would learn to finish out corners better;)
It not the fault of the drywall. If you want corner bead it adds an 1/8 inch to the corner. That's where the differences comes from. Learn your product before you criticize the trades.
I hate mounting base boards. There are so many things that can be out of whack. Floors might not be level, walls might not be flat and completely vertical. It’s very easy to end up with a gap. But this was a good suggestion to take care of at least one issue.
Block of wood at the stair end and whack it with a hammer until it slides over that 1/16". You will likely want some mud and wall paint to fix the dents in the wall when you miss the block of wood you are trying to hit.
🤣 @the sound effects. 🤣😂 Loving these 'dark arts' videos, so useful even to those of us who've been doing this kinda work even for decades... there's always some really useful tips to learn. Thanks!!
Very funny, especially since this happened to me when I was trying to fit the corners. Wow, I wish I had seen this before. Thank you for the great tip and your funny presentation!!!
Great music, really matches the level of sarcasm in your delivery. All these people below in the comments think you are the cat's pizzaz, I guess they must see something in you.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter - I’m guessing he’s not after friendship; he’s more into a subtle tear-down of your character. I’m just glad to know that cats have pizzaz and are not just into pajamas.
I always use 12 inch pieces for my mitre or angle measuring scraps. Interior or exterior. Add a foot. EZ way. If the mitre is open on the floor I cut the corner bead out below base top and hammer the sheet rock. Not going to garage to belt sand. I'd get fired. Like your vids.
But, the floor is uneven to the baseboard. Now, we take all the flooring up, and level it off to the baseboard. Now, the whole floor is uneven, tune in next week when we even out the whole house to the baseboards
You can spot that from 10 feet..........Instead, fill the gap with Quick grab PL and use a small, scrap, straightedge to conform it as best you can to remove all excess.. When it dries, carve off what little is above plane and cover the joint with a coat of good filler. Maybe 2. Sand and it's perfect. No compromise at all.
The best way to avoid this is to cut and glue/pin a mitred corner with pieces exactly 50mm long (wastes 100mm of board, but worth it in the long run) then fit it over the corner and measure back. Add 50mm onto each measurement and bingo! If you're working with "right" angles that are too acute, a couple of extra dummies made to fit these works. You can usually find offcuts which fit the bill. It's not always the best way but it works for me.
Must have screwed something up seeing you cut the two pieces out of the same board at the beginning of the video but the profiles don’t match on the last shot.
Belt sander is too much effort. I would just try for a closer fit at first, then carefully trim some with a blade. It will be fine. Btw I love the hopeless tragic face he makes when it doesn't fit. People who never work with tools just don't know how hard it is to accomplish things.
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What’s w the crazy loud soundtrack? We just need woodworking advice
How do I handle floor molding transition from a tile to carpet surface? The tile is about 1/4 higher. Do I just line up the top of the molding and hope the carpet guys tuck the carpet under?
My wife bought me a laser guided power miter saw when we bought our first flipper/fixer-upper. It allowed me to miscut things with a lot greater accuracy.
😂🎉
Don't you love that! :D
What did you get her? Some cookware?
@@jomama3804 I got her a self-propelled lawn mower, like any respectable husband would do.
Haha! Then drink coffee - do stupid things faster with more energy!
I didn't have a belt sander, I just got in my car, and with my door open a bit, held the piece to the ground while I drove to the dispensary. Worked pretty good. Theres a rough edge, but you can't see it if you look from a certain angle.
Innovation can’t be stopped…😂
Best advice I've seen!
So what's the weather like in Florida? Lol
I used to sharpen knifes with a rock and a piece of glass.
I'd move
Good tip.
Also, I’ve found this is caused by the taper leaving extra mud at the bottom of the corner bead. Sometimes you can simply scrape the corner in either side with a flat bar and it’ll gain back that 1/16”, hopefully saving you a trip to the belt sander.
Excellent point
This is the way. We usually just smash the corners with a hammer to get rid of the mud buildup. Which is on 75% of the corners in a house.
Yes. I have been "a carpentry guru" so many times. I had mastered the art of measuring once then cursing myself many times. Great video. Thanks.
Or measure to the sheetrock corner and cut the miter at 46 degrees. That extends the Long point out to compensate for the out of square corner. Also put a return on that short piece on the left and you will a better looking end as you're coming up the stairs. Caulk the top of Base , fill the nail holes and paint it. All done. Finish Carpenter
Please explain what a return is.
@@soniaskolnick3868 You cut a 45% angle on the end that goes into the stair string, and another small 45% returned into the wall. 2 part superglue works well for sticking the little piece on.
I always cut at 46 👍
That's what I do. Lol. Tried and true
I always cut at a 46 as well. I also cut both pieces about 1/32 long and put both piece in, nail the corner last so I can match it up perfect. Caulk the top, spackle the seams and nail holes, paint and it looks perfect
Lots of places sell nice miter equipment. None of them offers training on correct usage and calculations. You had me hooked in with the exasperation expressions! I have lived this......
Love this guy, He literally acts like I do at work
So you artificially inseminate horses for a living?
Fantastic and you capture the circumstances perfectly. and that breath exhale haha.
Its the last piece of baseboard :) or any task thats occurring at the end of a lo-o-o-ng day, a while between breaks, where you just drift concentration slightly. Then Mr Murphy strikes! he is always sitting on your shoulder. You recovered the situation and to give credit where its due thats where the mistakes provide sooo much learning. Keep up the good humour and good vids.
Thank you! For novice people like me, who would keep cutting ends at different angles in an attempt to match , this if very handy. I don't mind using a "bit" of wood filler, silicone, etc., but learning tricks of trade to make the best fit possible, even if it takes a little more time is a great life lesson. This is a very good method of taking "just a bit at at time" to make it a very good fit.
A miter gauge helps a lot and after installing 1000s of feet of this stuff over very crooked walls and floors it’s almost never straight forward, the scribe comes out to get your work to be as tight as possible. Being able to set your gear up as close as possible to your work area actually saves time and “sets you up” for really tight work. Using both a dust barrier be it zip pole or handy masker and film, and a vac on your tools allows you to work in lived in areas. Either way you are spending time and effort, I say, spend it efficiently setting up to work efficiently getting your best ever work, every time. Makes the time you spend doing this so much more enjoyable. This was funny as hell, keep up the great content homey!
Good point on the set-up. I always like to get into a nice space that isn't crowded and then set up all my stuff in the same orientation every time if possible. Thanks for checking out the channel, I appreciate it!
No fluff no bs love these videos with the occasional joke from the funny guy
Thanks buddy
No fluff is the key word(s).. Too many videos are filled with 90% rambling about their skills or what others do wrong. This guy is a breath of fresh air
What's more effective than a good carpenter? A carpenter with good video skills. You are a hoot!
😁
As someone who’s done carpentry for 16 years, (300+ pieces of baseboard just yesterday!) I can tell you that this “fix” takes 8 times longer than simply replacing the short piece. Even faster: remove the short piece and simply slide it 1/16” over and re-nail it. In this case the left side will now have a small gap but it will get caulked. Another tip: unless the baseboard is abnormally tall, or you have a fisher-price miter saw, you can usually stand it upright on the miter saw for cutting those angles; you don’t have to put the saw on a compound angle.
I'm not even a professional but yeah, I think you're right. You gonna tell me you don't have a piece of cutoff scrap in that length? Yeah, right. Just replace it, so much faster, or yes, move it over and caulk the straight gap.
Either way you’re walking back to the saw. So realistically maybe 1.2 times as long🙃. I like cutting on flat, especially with the Kapex. I made a video showing a handy tip that will work for crown, furniture kick, etc. You’d be wrong assuming I’d cut that piece short under regular circumstances. 🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenter All I can say is that for me, in the time that it takes to prepare the belt sander I could’ve made the one to three cuts needed to make the piece. But if I were cutting with compound angles I’d consider using a belt sander IF it were already plugged in and ready.
I 100% agree with you. Just finished doing 1000 sq foot of trim. I just bring the saw in the house and make the cut. Lets be honest if worse I cut at 46 degrees and use DAP. This is over dramatic.
The context you said was it’s your last piece and you don’t want to go to the store. At this point your video is actually a great way to think of an alternative.
Best part: You’re a carpentry guru! Then it doesn’t fit! With the music and sound effects. I’m still rolling! 😂 I thought dude was totally serious! He got me good!😎
Thanks a lot Donald! Some fun was had making this video!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter
L🤫L Worthy of a Sub! 🤭
Hoping you were joking
@SEAL CYCLE lot quicker to cut a new piece
Just mark up the back of the skirting at the wall corner that’s your length and your 45 cut point, easy! Works every time.
Just watched 3 of your videos is a row, nodding to the things I learned, subscribed now, bring it on.
Cheers 🍻
Love the presentation and most of all-professionalism! I am a musician that also do most repairs at home myself due to lack of skills of many in the construction business... Sarcasm and music in addition to your skills are appreciated! :) You set an great example.
Thanks for the awesome comment😁
I played the recorder when as a kid, I'm a musician too!
This is a good trick. Most of the comments below reflect paint grade work. Try doing it with stained material. Sanding the back, and back cutting the miter works best. Remember that when the mud goes on the corner, its always put on heavy for 6-10". Thats the only part that needs sanding... Great vid
Joint compound. Works beautifully. Overfill gaps (along top and bottom too). Let it stick out a little for shrinage. When dry, damp sponge to flush in seconds.
Brilliant! I been looking for various problem solving tips because I'm dealing with walls that are not flat, straight, or square. Back when they built my house, they finished the walls with 1/2 sheetrock and COPIOUS amounts of plaster. Patching or replacing drywall throughout the house has been the ultimate trial by fire since I'm self-taught and this is my first house.
I remember the first time I used a belt sander. I put the piece of wood on a work surface (not thinking about clamping it) . Put the belt to the board, and zing!! The board shot off the work table and into the wall, creating a nice hole in the drywall. Even more funny was my wife and I both watched the board as it flew into the wall . . just like you would see in a comedy show. We still laugh about this over 30 years later. One of the fun memories we have of building our house. That was a great tip.
lol great story thanks for sharing
made me laugh
Recently kicked out a 10-year tenant and had to repair /replace a lot of stuff. I literally had to do exactly this when installing new trim. Nice video!
You kicked them out after ten years?
My late Dad was a joiner, learnt his trade in the shipyards on the Tyne in the 30's cut mitres, mortice and tenons by hand as cabinet making was part of his apprenticeship. No power tools in those days just real craftsmen.
That’s awesome! I like checking out houses from that era, the carpenters didn’t specialize back then so they would built everything on-site with like you said their hand tools.
I'm 67. Never had power tools till turned 35 and by then just DIYing (in heavy duty way for self, friends, and family. Bosch green range was mostly excellent
This one was very good. Informative, short AND funny.
For anyone afraid of their ability to rectify the problem with sanders etc, sawdust and carpenters white glue mixed together fills up the gap and can be sanded off to perfection later
Yes, did same with pressure treated lumber
I use drywall compound sand, for painted boards obviously
THIS IS GREAT! people should take lessons on how to make youtubes from this guy!
Dude that intro was spot on!!!! I was getting frustrated jusr remembering. "I'm a woodworker with lots of expensive tools, of course it will fit!" Lmfao!!!!!! 👍🏼🤣
Thanks Andres I had fun making that video
Best thing about that video was when it ended!!!
You are awesome! My rule is measure 4 times, cut twice and enjoy all the extra scrap pieces.
It's always nice to have scrap material for future projects:)
Absolutely. And also if your worried that your fire wood is too cheap you can increase your cost this way!
Buy three times more than I need, cut loads then rage quit and put something in front of it. That's the way I roll.
Hahaha yeahh
Lmfao
I like your style. +1 TH-cam how to fix your F*ckups, proceed to big box store and buy new tool that has 0 to do with original problem. Come home and stare at unfinished bathroom with discontent for $$ you just spent on stupid stuff you didn’t need.
Yup. Hit it with a bigger hammer is how I roll LOL,
I have been a carpenter since middle school, professionally since I was 21, I am 37 now, and I still try to put myself around the old timers whenever possible so I can pick up tricks from them. I've not seen this trick done before; very clever. I am still learning.
Thanks for showing us how to remedy these base board corner joints, PLEASE drop the sound track, it just clutters up this useful information.
Beautiful corner grafting techniques.
This performance touched my soul. Thank you.
OK..... I never would have thought that one through on my own. Thanks for the tip!
Handheld Power planar is a great tool to use as well. Start with a deep cut at the mitre and reduce to zero as you move along the base. Less dust too!
Thanks for the tips.... and the laughs during the video! Adding a little humor in made it even better!!! Thanks!
Thanks a lot Jason
When I worked in the trade we just used the board stretcher...worked all the time. The real trick is not allowing this to happen and THATS where the art of carpentry truly is, and there is a few tricks to do that.
Here is some hints...items in your toolbelt; pencil, knife, 2 small flathead screwdrivers, finishing hammer, small sandpaper block, a small piece of trim cut at a perfect 45(both ends or have 2 with each having different end cut at 45), glue bottle and for last resort...measuring tape(seldom used)...HAVE CHOP SAW IN THE SAME ROOM AS YOU ARE WORKING IN OR VERY NEAR BY. When cutting, think in terms of heel and toe and in hair thicknesses. In the trade we often worked in pairs, one doing the sizing(measuring) and the pinning and the other the cutting. OH...and do the corners 1st and trim to size on the straight ends if possible. Most professionals will bead the top of the trim with silicone, white or clear, if wall is finished with paint or wallpaper.
Some good tips, thanks for the post.
When the sad music started playing I literally laughed out loud. lol anyways awesome video! Appreciate the tip!
So...realistically, you should never nail in the trim at corners until you test fit the pieces since it appears you might have cut the shorter piece on the left too short and positioned it wrong. I always pinch the corner and do a test and then nail with all pieces in place.
I always take my measurements on the wall at the top of the base. It helps minimize gaps. If an outside miter is closed at the top but open at the bottom I scrape any mud at the corner, if that doesn't work I plane the backside of base until miter closes. We always use construction adhesive so if I plane too much off it's no prob cuz the adhesive will act like a shim when it dries.
Woosh
dramatic soundtrack at the bad fit was hilarious,enjoyed it thanks
for that little bit just pull the other off the wall a 1/16" and caulk it... done!
Cowboy 🤠
I.also do this occasionally. I always caulk trim to wall...cleaner edge for paint.
Make you right. Fart arsing about not needed..but if your doing top notch work like hardwood panelling your gonna get your bevel out to get those little mitres spot on.
@@douglas60040 so true, even post paint, no little grooves for dirt to collect. Also keeps bugs out and + insulation.
2:47 Nicely done, problem might be that such work in private homes is done only once. So people do not buy all the equipment and tools that usually only a professional cabinetmaker's workshop has?
Great video and nicely done. You slayed that crooked wall with this technique. Total mic drop move!
Thanks Tuan:)
i seriously cracked up at this video! You are my new hero!
So glad to see this. I feel safe in the knowledge that the way I fixed the same problem 2 weeks age with an angle grinder and a flap disc, wasn't as bad as SWMBO told me it was.
When I watched this video I was sure this guy was in my bathroom snooping around the woodwork. Your crack fitting was good, I use latex calking, and lots of it, if that doesn’t cover the cracks, all I do is put a small waste basket or vase of flowers in front of the corner, works every time. But I will try your method next time. E.J.
Know what yyyy;5
Bob Villa would be proud
Ha, Caulk n paint makes things what they ain't.
My new favorite channel. Informative and entertaining.
Glad you enjoy it!
Hold skirt to Wall on both sides, small pencil line on floor, strike through the points, (wall corner to pencil line crossing point) Bevel it and take to the mitre saw, measure from pencil to end, mitre cut, glue, then pin. But a very nice fix for a easy mistake we all have made.
When installing moldings, always do the outside corners first and test-fit. If you're not positive about length cut a bit long then trim as needed. 45 degree angles are for casing moldings, baseboard is always 44 inside and 46 outside. Better to cut outside joints a hair long, fit both pieces of the base together with glue, then let the base float off the wall as needed. Top trick here: run a small vertical bead of caulk just back from the corner on both sides when assembling to prevent the floated corner from being pushed inward later on.
Stain grade requires more precise fitting so I keep a pair of roughly 16" long pieces of scrap base on hand with 46 cuts on both ends and use them to test the outside corner before measuring or cutting, if the 46 doesn't work use the scrap to test an adjusted angle. Hold them in place properly fitted and draw a line on the floor on both sides. Measure to the outside of those lines then erase them while it's easy. This makes each part one pencil line width too long and ensures a tight corner every time. Outside crown corners are done the same way. If the ceiling has finish paint on it,instead of a pencil line mark, lightly score with a razor knife instead and allow a hair extra in measuring.
Drywall corners are never finished straight and flat, they always curve some. Using the 16" test pieces ensures you are bridging that curve to where the finished piece will actually lay when installed. Using too-short test pieces will land you in that curve and cause errors. You can use a similar technique and 44 degree angles for inside corners. Just remember after finding the angle with your test pieces to re-cut them back to 46 or 44 before checking and fitting the next corner.
I did my best and caulked the rest.
Cut angles first, then adjust the length of the pieces with straight cuts at the other end. Always cut a shade too long. You can always cut again.
Also, test fit before securing permanently.
@@kevinbedard27 thats what I did, it takes more cuts but it fits nice
Caulk and paint, makes a carpenter what he ain't.
Clever. I would not have thought of it. Thanks for sharing. Very funny too.
This is where that sliding bevel mitre angle finder located on the back of the Kapex comes into play. Measure twice, cut once.
If I was cooking, I could just eat it and try again
Doesnt stop you cutting something short though does it.
KAPEX?
@@danrook5757 10X comment!
Measure 8 times, cut twice, patch with putty, then hope the paint covers it...
Great tip! I especially enjoyed the "shouting into the oblivion" montage!! LMAO!
Thanks for checking out the vid William
Interesting solution. A couple of other suggestions though.
Measurements are always subject to error. Better to hold the piece on the wall, then hold another piece of molding on the other wall (on top) and with a very sharp pencil draw a line on top of the lower molding to mark the inside point of the miter.
On the "short piece", you just cut the end by the stairs square. It ideally should have a return cut on the end and a return piece glued in, or depending on how you want it to look,
If you don't have an angle gauge to show the exact angle of the corner, a bevel gauge and a plastic compass (from high school) can be used to get the exact angle needed.
Bang on about returning the butt end. All the other butt ends in my house are done the same way, so I didn't want to introduce a new look. Marking the piece they way you suggest is a good suggestion for a piece or two, but it's no way to trim out a house or an apartment building. I just cut the piece short for the purpose of the video and to share a cool trick. Lol in reality I would be measuring and cutting to the 64th all day(unhumble brag). Thanks for checking out the vid!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter You'd be surprised how fast it goes. Just finished helping a friend of mine finish his basement, and the only time we measured was when the piece was an "inside corner to inside corner", and even then the measurement didn't have to be exact as one end is coped, and the other end left square for the next piece to cope into, so leaving it 3/16 short was fine. Granted, we had the chop saw in the room where we were doing all the cuts (or in the next area) so no great time loss going back and forth.
Cut 46 degrees on next piece to be installed, also base should t ie directly into skirtboard, if ya know what your doing. 🤔 Usually 20 degree cuts give or take a couple degrees. If you'd like use 2 pieces of dummy wood and mock up your cuts ,before final install
Bro I'm like 32 secs into your video love I already the vibes just screaming subscription
😂🍺
tack the two pieces together before nailing to wall.
Thats pretty clever
hahaha... "the dark arts of carpentry" LOL. Very clever, great video!
Thanks a lot for watching!
Hmmm, now that I know this, leaving the tiny gap makes me lazy, instead of just unskilled.
This described my last two days. Hence why I’m searching for these videos. Maybe you can do one on reusing scrap baseboard. I have an abundance of it.
Great video - thanks. Wish I knew this when remodeling My Old House where there is no such thing as a straight wall or angle.
Love watching skilled workers and you certainly are one. You probably know that in the UK we call the base board, skirting board. Thanks. 👍🇬🇧
The name is logical, thanks for checking out the channel mate!
Great video! Block planes, even the tiny guys, work pretty good for board stretching too. It may require a bit of elbow grease depending on harder material but softer stuff like mbf, hemlock, n pine should b easy.
That is awesome. I will keep this in mind. A lot easier than going back to hardware store twice before finally deciding the only option is to sell the house.
Haha:)
Thanks for the useful tip. Too bad I didn't learn it 20 years ago. The music could use dialing back a bit or eliminating. Near the end I could hardly hear you over the music. I don't think the readers will miss any of it.
Thanks for checking out the video, good points on the music, the sound mixing was terrible. I’ve learned a few things since then!
The end was so epic fits perfect 🤩
Thanks buddy
That worked surprisingly well! I thought for sure you were going to pull out a protractor as they work surprisingly well as well ;)
Your moment of reaction when looking at the poor cut was EXACTLY SPOT ON! 😂🤣🤣
Great idea! My fix was to change the miter saw angle until I found the degree that fits perfectly. The problem with my method is you waste alot baseboard with the hundreds of test cuts. If only dry wallers would learn to finish out corners better;)
It not the fault of the drywall. If you want corner bead it adds an 1/8 inch to the corner. That's where the differences comes from. Learn your product before you criticize the trades.
This scene could be in a Hollywood movie..
Great job keeping it entertaining..
I don’t watch your videos for the tips-I watch for the hilarious acting😂. Just kidding. I watch for the tips as well👍
Lol, would you believe I spent 7 years at acting school?.................(not true)
Brilliant thanks. Doing some skirtings tomorrow, hoping I don’t need this but .....🙏🤔👌
First thing I do is scrap all the extra mud off the corner where the drywallers leave it built up making the corner out of whack.
bassfan41 the Richards little red bar is perfect for that task
I am so GLAD I dound your channel!! 😆
Thanks for the support!
But your profiles did not match up, top bead is opposite of other piece, looks like two separate mouldings
Ghost Five bad camera angle, with two types of light
I hate mounting base boards. There are so many things that can be out of whack. Floors might not be level, walls might not be flat and completely vertical. It’s very easy to end up with a gap. But this was a good suggestion to take care of at least one issue.
Plus you get the added bonus of working on your knees😢
Block of wood at the stair end and whack it with a hammer until it slides over that 1/16". You will likely want some mud and wall paint to fix the dents in the wall when you miss the block of wood you are trying to hit.
When you started on with the belt sander I was waiting for you to say "ok just kidding. Just stick a couple of popsicle sticks in there"
I’ve only been doing carpentry for 30 years but I have to say I’ve never seen anyone measure to the long point on a corner. Interesting.
Too funny
In Puerto Rico we said:
Que ooooosssstiiiaaaaaaaa puuuñeetaaa🔥🔥🔥
Great video Bro!!!
🤣 @the sound effects. 🤣😂 Loving these 'dark arts' videos, so useful even to those of us who've been doing this kinda work even for decades... there's always some really useful tips to learn. Thanks!!
Thanks a lot Cathy:)
Good tip, and bonus thumbs up for the view from Mt Thom. ;) 👍👍👍
Well, you fixed the end-matching problem, but now the top edge reveal is tapered. (This will be noticed if you stand close to the wall and look down.)
Once it is caulked to the wall it will never be noticed.
First video I have watched of your I have subscribed!!!
Thank you
The painters will take care of that....
Caulk n paint, makes you the carpenter you ain't !!
Hats off to you sir! Well done, well done 👏
Very funny, especially since this happened to me when I was trying to fit the corners. Wow, I wish I had seen this before. Thank you for the great tip and your funny presentation!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for checking out the vid
Crap! I just had the exact issue. Thx for the tip. I'm fixing it now which sure beats running back for more materials!
Great music, really matches the level of sarcasm in your delivery. All these people below in the comments think you are the cat's pizzaz, I guess they must see something in you.
wanna be friends?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter - I’m guessing he’s not after friendship; he’s more into a subtle tear-down of your character. I’m just glad to know that cats have pizzaz and are not just into pajamas.
I'll never find myself doing this, but at least I can enjoy it vicariously!
Thanks for watching!
I’ve prayed to God about this exact problem
I always use 12 inch pieces for my mitre or angle measuring scraps. Interior or exterior. Add a foot. EZ way. If the mitre is open on the floor I cut the corner bead out below base top and hammer the sheet rock. Not going to garage to belt sand. I'd get fired. Like your vids.
cracked me up!🤣. happened to me the other day.. of cos they'll fit perfectly...silence.😅
Yup been there and then casually look around for the wife 😂
DUDE..... I love the humor!!
Thanks buddy
But, the floor is uneven to the baseboard. Now, we take all the flooring up, and level it off to the baseboard. Now, the whole floor is uneven, tune in next week when we even out the whole house to the baseboards
Floors uneven so scribe the base, easy.
If somebody notices the tiny floor gap.....they need to find a new hobby.
You can spot that from 10 feet..........Instead, fill the gap with Quick grab PL and use a small, scrap, straightedge to conform it as best you can to remove all excess.. When it dries, carve off what little is above plane and cover the joint with a coat of good filler. Maybe 2. Sand and it's perfect. No compromise at all.
Not a bad idea.
The best way to avoid this is to cut and glue/pin a mitred corner with pieces exactly 50mm long (wastes 100mm of board, but worth it in the long run) then fit it over the corner and measure back. Add 50mm onto each measurement and bingo! If you're working with "right" angles that are too acute, a couple of extra dummies made to fit these works. You can usually find offcuts which fit the bill. It's not always the best way but it works for me.
Lol😅. This is so me!!! I am a guru …. Then boom. Failure. Love it buddy
Thanks buddy
Must have screwed something up seeing you cut the two pieces out of the same board at the beginning of the video but the profiles don’t match on the last shot.
Ya my bad, it was a bad camera angle.
Lots of subtle tips to make you better during this video
Belt sander is too much effort. I would just try for a closer fit at first, then carefully trim some with a blade. It will be fine. Btw I love the hopeless tragic face he makes when it doesn't fit. People who never work with tools just don't know how hard it is to accomplish things.