the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I'm one of those DENSE people...I cannot tell you how much wood I wasted trying to get the angles right until I saw your video this morning. I went into my garage, took some 1x4 and 2x4 scraps I had and practiced what you did and HOLY COW it really works. Any my wife is always telling me "Men don't follow directions" well, I did (this time) and I don't think I will be wasting much wood on the next project with acute angles.....THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
I'm embarrassed to admit this, but despite the fact that I had worked for 15 years as a carpenter I'd never learned how to do that. Great video, and piece of info. Thanks!
Man, I've watched a lot of miter saw videos and I'm telling you, you're is by far the best. No fluff, no unnecessary chatter, just excellent information and communication. I wish all TH-cam how to videos where this good. Thanks.
I was a carpenter/cabinetmaker for 30 years. This is a great explanation. They were just coming out with power miter boxes, (No sliding combination), framing guns, and so on when I was an apprentice. Not many people can say they framed a house with hand saws and hammers these days. I had to learn all of this on a framing square, and in my 3rd year as an apprentice, the Swanson speed square came out. Wish I had had a digital t-bevel or angle finder
@@keithmarlowe5569 I didn't mention this, but I learned to draw elliptic arches to make brick cradles for arched widows like you see in churches on a framing square.
In my long past construction days I too used hammer (28 and 32oz) and nail. No air tools but we did use worm gear power saws to make our cuts. Framed. Roofed. Sheet rocked. Cabinetry. No plumbing, No electrical, No Insulation thank you. But I did move onto electronics as my second (and final) career. Retired now.I did emjoy this training video. Clear and concise. Well done.
Did roofing/siding in the early 70's to the mid 90, helped frame a few homes, still remember sore elbows from swinging the Estwing, no guns, worm drive saws. I still have my Swanson speed square, used it a few months ago replacing some rotted trim (NC weather is brutal on wood trim).
Ive been a finish carpenter for over 30 years and I found your explanation very clear. Fortunately I haven't encounter too many acute angles of 60 degrees on the job! Festool makes an angle finder that bisects any angle, I've found this to be an idiot proof solution for me🤣 Thanks for sharing this solution!
Trim carpenter here. Great explanation/tutorial. Don’t be afraid to add a degree to your cut on baseboard outside angles. this will ensure that the outside of the miter closes up. For example on new construction I typically cut my base with 46 degree angles for standard 90 degree corners.
I was so proud of myself for learning how to use the saw and nail gun and cutting all my 90’s inside and outside corners. Now I’m ready for anything!!!!! Thank you!!!!
Dude, this has cleared up so much for me. I feel so much more confident in cutting base boards for my wife's kitchen island, now. I am going to redo them because what i did initially is decent but i hate the small caulk filled gaps where i was toying around trying to get them as close as possible to complementing angles. This lesson in cutting angles: GAME CHANGER! THANKS
The author does like to from scratch, th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
Thank you for the nice explanation. There is actually an easier way to determine mitered angles with an angle finder. First, take the angle of the corner, then subtract it from 180 degrees (for example 120 degrees becomes 60, 90 degrees becomes 90, 60 degrees becomes 120, etc.) Then, divide the number in half because there’s two pieces making the angle. That’s it. You’re welcome.
@@woopar305 Your one of those guys! Passive-aggressive internet snach - try to look witty by your reply, yet not intelligent enough to figure out SIMPLE math. It is a good look for you.
This man gets my Vote! Thank You for letting the blade come to a stop, before raising the head @ 02:39. I’ve gotten a lot of pushback, from others, including a family member that is a contractor, over this. It may take a little extra time, but what cost for safety? Thanks for illustrating the safe use of a saw, as well as prowess on the cuts! Being a former trim carpenter in another season of Life, I can appreciate this. Viewers I hope You took notes! BTW, not raising the carriage on coast down is especially critical on trim pieces. On a framing job, or thicker dimensional lumber, one can get by raising the carriage, but DO NOT let off the trigger until saw is out of the cut. Please stay safe everybody! 👍✌
This was truly helpful. Just been getting into woodworking and it's people like you and your videos that help people like me learn without making so many mistakes with wood trying to figure things out.
ive found working for a few different construction companies some guys will intentionally tell you wrong so they still have a advantage..id play dumb like i didnt know better but once i got a guy fired cutting tapes measures. I stayed late and caught this asshole with my phone going through a co workers tools so i started recording him cut 1 inch off of 3 tape measures and re-rivet the holder back on all 3 oh this young carpenter tapes ,he was young but very good for his age..The young dude husted his nose the next morning, And made me die laughing when he took 50$ out of his wallet and said that's too replace my measuring tapes you sabotaged. cant lie I was proud of the young kid seeing him do that after showing him the video. Because id of done the Same thing, i told him ill be right behind ya the hole time go confront him...He didn't confront him just walked up said hey asshole, And bunched him right in the nose.. Good hit too. lol anyway Great video huh
I'm sure there are lots of pros that know all of this, everything you showed makes total sense as you're explaining it. It's just not easy for beginners so videos like yours are absolutely brilliant. Thanks for making it and for explaining it so well. I'll be sure to hit the 👍 button
25 years in and most guys can't even explain the work they do this is well explained very clean and simplifies it for people that haven't been in the trade well done sir
@@ryandiedrich6317 I was actually picking up on that myself. Thanks for the verification bc it wasn’t mentioned that way…so basically just divide each angle in 1/2 again ? Where does the 180 come from though ?
@@prgelectric5104 180 degrees is straight line. Half of a circle which is 360 degrees. This guy did everything correct, i just simplified the math part.
Great video. One thing I'd mention to all home-shop types - you can spend $1k on the best, biggest sliding miter you can find, but if you don't get the $25 mag. angle finder to use to set the blade and the same $15 angle finder he had to figure the miter - none of it matters. Setting up the saw is the most important step that's skipped by 95% of the people out there.
I can't tell you how many hours I've been trying to figure this out! I've watched tons of videos and after watching this one, I couldn't believe how easy it was. THANK YOU!!!!
I do not see what is hard about it....this explanation he give makes it seem harder than it even is! all common cuts will be 0 (90) 45 or 22.5 rarely do you ever need to cut a differant angle than those.
Sir, this is a game-changer - my grandfather, a woodworker, passed before I got this knowledge passed down to me. It's the things like this handed down that makes a difference, I'm sure it says it somewhere in the little yellow booklet I threw away while unboxing my miter saw. You filled in a huge blank spot, and I'll be putting this to use today when I get off work!
I know that most of this should be figured on our own with a little deductive logic, but your demonstration makes it work out much easier in our little brains. Thank you
This video just eased a lot of my anxiety. I've literally been putting off baseboards in my basement because of the angles. I've saved this video in my "How To" playlist for the future. Thanks.
My current project involves cutting multiple 60-degree angles, which I had never attempted before. I decided to leave it for later as I lacked experience with acute cuts. Today, while browsing my TH-cam account, I stumbled upon your informative video. I am grateful for the easy-to-understand instructions that have given me the confidence to carry out the necessary acute cuts and finish my project. Thanks a lot! 😊
You are awesome man! Anyone who does long division, by hand, on a scrap of wood is definitely a mentor who can teach in a way that I can understand! Thanks.
30 years of carpentry and I did not know this method of cutting acute angles on a mitre saw, thank you very much, no more block planing that rock hard piece of oak down to fit 👍
Excellent tutorial. I struggled to make the cuts you described - now I know the tricks. Most important: have a digital angle gauge. Once you know the exact angle, you do some math and get perfect miters. Well done.
If you don't have a digital angle finder, it can be done manually with a t-bevel, compass and straight edge. Set the t-bevel angle against the wall, then transfer to a piece of scrap. Bisect the angle using the compass and straight edge. Set the t-bevel to the bisected angle and use that to set the saw.
I love this. So many questions answered in one video. I’m going out to my garage right now to give it a go. This has to be better than my “nibbling” method. Many thanks.
When doing a mitre for acute angled walls, I recommend an infill at the junction point, so (with a 60 degree angle) you would first cut two x 60 degree pieces for the skirting and place each piece in position lining the internal edge with the corner of the wall, you will be left with a gap across the outside edge (because the angles obviously don't match) you then cut a 60 degree wedge piece to fit between them. The wedge essentially has a point on the internal side which meets at the corner point of the wall, the outside of the wedge bridges the gap between the first two skirting pieces. This method divides the acute skirting angle into two-halves and results in a two-step transition of the skirting around the acute wall angle. It alleviates what would otherwise be a sharp angle/point (bit difficult to explain). For example try doing an extremely acute skirting without this technique and you will have a sharp and elongated protruding skirting edge (if it can be cut at all!).
Nice, some clear info. Though for trim, you’re rarely ever going to find an acute angle like this in a house. But for a wood worker building boxes or something, the jig and math is a great tip. With baseboards, keep in mind that there is a 1/4” build up on drywall outside corners that will throw things off. The angle finder will only measure the built up part, but the full length board will either need to curve in past that if it’s flexible, or there will be a gap if it’s solid.
Oh, you find them alright. I do staircases, and sometimes doing skirt board moldings where they connect at level runs we have to make what we like to call, suicide cuts, since they’re like 70 degree cuts usually and with small 3/8 x 3/4 “ mouldings.
That's what caulking is for, at least in a paint grade situation. Stain grade? Well, that's when I would bust out a rasp or sandpaper, and nibble that bulge down a bit... Find the happy medium as it were, then move on... If the drywaller is worth his weight in salt, he would ensure a nice gradual taper when floating, eliminating the problem. Even "inflexible" trim will usually give a little.
Yup. The drywaller, often me, will only taper out a foot or so, and this is all the angle finder will measure. So, it’ll give you a rough starting point, but you’ll need to adjust, whether that’s with caulking or a rasp, or in my case, just adjusting the cut angle a point or two.
@@markoshun yeah, depending on the circumstances. A degree or two will usually compensate when it's not sloppy mudding. Since I do my own drywall floating as well, it's usually spot on, but sometimes, we have to follow someone else's work... Great video btw...
There is an easier way to deal with outside angles. Start with your angle finder straight. Adjust the angle to fit the corner. You measured 120 degrees. So you take 180 and subtract 120 and you get 60. So you need to remove 60 degrees total. You want to remove half from each side or 30 degrees. The way to think of inside angles is just to install one straight cut, miter and back cope the second cut. However, this only works when you are square or more open than 90. A tighter angle will require the first cut to be angled enough that the point fits into the corner. Then miter the 2nd and back cope it to fit.
Man, you're a genius! Zero on the saw = 90 degrees. Of course! Those numbers have been staring me in the face for all the years I've had my mitre saw. I only really ever use 0 and 45 degrees, but now it all makes sense! I need to go and find a weird angle in my house, just so I can cut something to fit it! Thank you so much for this great video!
A very clear explanation. Suggest that a useful extra tip is, cut the mitre half a degree larger (eg 45.5° for outside miter) or half a degree smaller (eg 44.5° for inside miter) to ensure that the visible outside join is tight.
Came across this by accident and am an avid DIY'er - have struggled with these types of trim cuts before and wondered how the pros do it, this man is a genius as far as I'm concerned 😂😂
Thank you. As a novice woodworker i was wondering how to get acute angles on my Miter , but as a qualified Boilermaker( Steel fabricator) i fully understood how you did that.
I was told to make outside miters 1/2 degree over on each side because walls are never square and it's more important to make sure the outside touches than the inside. I replaced all my baseboard and I had 3 outside miters. worked on all of them. Something about that tiny extra that made them work well. BTW, my house is 50+ years old.
@@johnklein6040 I always cope if I can but if you're mitering then I'll do 44 or 46 even if it comes out 45° with a gauge. It just makes those areas of contact a little bit tighter 🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
If you double or triple stack and securely clamp your jig block so there is a taller backer for pieces with compound miters when you use a jig it's much easier to keep the piece you are cutting firmly against the block to ensure your cut is straignt from top to bottom.
Was just about to say this. For doing miters "veritically", either because of the specific board or because you only have a single bevel, use a block to space the workpiece a few inches from the fence
Great video. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I'm a homeowner that's been replacing the builder grade trim in my home (door casings and baseboard) to wider flat-flat front trim. I bought myself a miter saw but it was an entry level saw. I can't stand the 6" base on its end so I have to cut it laying flat. The saw I bought will only miter to the left (sorry if I'm not making any sense). If I need to cut a miter the opposite way I get myself confused every time because I have to flip the baseboard around or upside down or something otherwise I am having to cut using my left hand which doesn't feel safe at all. I'm not sure what the answer is short of buying another much more expensive miter saw which I really can't afford right now. On a side note...all of the wall corners in my house are bullnose so I am going to have to learn how and where to stop the measurement leading up to the bullnose and what kind of angle I need to cut and how to cut those quite narrow pieces that sit right on the bullnose. Ugh!
Thanks a lot! I’m newly retired and starting to get into woodworking so am having to watch a lot of videos. Yours was one of the more helpful I’ve come across!
@@SawdustandWood Yea, like Crown Moulding.............now THAT would be some GOOD STUFF and I would tune right in. I can't begin to tell you what was previously said and Expensive Dentil Crown is not something you want to learn on.
Awesome video! Very informative, clear & to the point without annoying music. My dad taught me this years ago & this is the first video I’ve seen that explains it the way he taught me, thank you for sharing this!
I am a very experienced trim carpenter. This is an excellent explanation for finding and cutting angles. There are other ways that work for this as well. But, this is a great tutorial for this method. Well done.
I’ve never seen this method before, as a mechanical engineer I still love watching other trades to get tips. Every day is a school day, and I’m glad I clicked on this 👏👏👏 As a side note I can’t believe how quiet your saw is, my old Ryobi is approx same size as yours, but as 15 years old, weighs a ton and sounds like a rocket launch in use………………😳 Sorry to preach but please encourage watchers to use gloves, 2 years ago I was cutting scrap wood to burn, I had long lengths in my saw supported by my rollers, as I quickly slid and cut them into 10” pieces. I wasn’t concentrating because I was rushing, and the long end of the wood on my left came off the roller as I slid it towards me. I had my hand on the wood and as the wood tipped up it pushed my hand into the blade which was going at almost full speed. I was wearing gloves and as I looked down there was a cut approx 4” in the top of the glove. I took it off and there was a cut on my middle finger along the whole length above the knuckle and I could see the bone. If I had bare hands it would have been a serious accident, the whole area had no skin to stitch so I did what any other mechanical engineer would do, put toilet roll over the top and taped it in place with electrical tape and went back to work 💪💪💪
mate, this is the best i have seen with the angles, saw another vid, lost me after 45seconds, went all technical, quickly came back to yours. and it sure is the easiest .Many thanks
I met my girlfriend in the 7th grade. We had 8th grade geometry together. Needless to say I didn't pay attention. Been working with wood since I was 12, but never thought to make a jig for that angle. Great video, thanks!
This is by far have been the best instructions and steps I've came across!! Thank You so much... I recently just purchased my first home and the floors are in, now it's time for new baseboards. That angle finder is a huge help, along with knowing how to make the adjustments to the saw.
Thanx so much for this video I'm a joiner cabinet maker from south africa a client asked me to do his skirting for him which I dnt really do but didn't want to disappoint just finished up his kitchen I needed this
Thank you so much for posting this. I had difficulties making angles cuts under a stair, it was strange and difficult cuts, but you made this so simple to understand, I was able to successfully cut my angles. THANK YOU again!
Very instructional and easy to understand. The only piece of information I would add is depending on your material, you may want to be mindful of blade tear-out. The mitre saw creates tear-out at the back of the piece ( against the fence. ) Again, depending on the material you are cutting, or the type of blade in your saw, you may have to be mindful to keep the exposed or finished side towards you. Great video for general knowledge !
Very many thanks from across the pond! I had to watch this video 3 times and on the third run everything just fell into place. Grabbed some scrap timber and it worked so well that I tried again with some UPVC cladding and perfect! It's great to watch a straightforward video without all the hype. Now all I need is for you to hop over to England and help me finish my project😎
It’s amazing how many of these videos explain this the same way. I’ve seen people put tape on there miter writing in the new angles or taking sharpies and changing the angles on the saw. There is a simple formula that lets you use your existing degrees on your saw, actually 2 formulas, both get the same result. 180 minus your angle then divide by 2, or take your angle divide it by 2 and subtract that from 90. Stop changing the degrees on a miter saw. Ex. Your angle is 120. 180-120=60, divide by 2 = 30, set your saw to 30 and cut. No modifications needed.
This is a brilliant summary. Thank you. 1.7M views is impressive, though 50k are probably just me repeating it. Determined to commit this to long-term memory.
Dang! I’ve done baseboards in an apartment, first timer 👍 went ok. A house? Yeah, different story. I’m Canadian so the accent threw me for a loop, but your a genius, I thought this guy is probably efficient at angling gators? You’re angle knowledge is inspiring sir👍
![[UNCUT] รัฐสั่งหยุดปล่อยคลื่น! แต่หยุดพลังปะทุ “น้องหญิง” ไม่ได้ I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RmQh47eIiV0/mqdefault.jpg)
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I'm one of those DENSE people...I cannot tell you how much wood I wasted trying to get the angles right until I saw your video this morning. I went into my garage, took some 1x4 and 2x4 scraps I had and practiced what you did and HOLY COW it really works. Any my wife is always telling me "Men don't follow directions" well, I did (this time) and I don't think I will be wasting much wood on the next project with acute angles.....THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
You’re welcome!
Also thank you!!
Haha you are NOT alone..
@@lunchymunchy2984 came to say the same but you beat me to it 😃 we’re not alone brother 🤙🏻
Sadly, I’m in the same slow boat! This was helpful.
I love that you've decreased the volume when you're using the saw. Makes it so much nicer to watch without the sudden roar of machinery!
I'm embarrassed to admit this, but despite the fact that I had worked for 15 years as a carpenter I'd never learned how to do that. Great video, and piece of info. Thanks!
Which gives me 0 chance of building anything!!! 😫😤😫
@@boridebrooklyn8300 unless u watch this 5 min video = winning
Man, I've watched a lot of miter saw videos and I'm telling you, you're is by far the best. No fluff, no unnecessary chatter, just excellent information and communication. I wish all TH-cam how to videos where this good. Thanks.
Great instruction
I agree with you @Windell like this was the most straight to the point tutorial I’ve ever watch so far.
Facts! Excellent content
And silenced the loud saw.
I was a carpenter/cabinetmaker for 30 years. This is a great explanation. They were just coming out with power miter boxes, (No sliding combination), framing guns, and so on when I was an apprentice. Not many people can say they framed a house with hand saws and hammers these days.
I had to learn all of this on a framing square, and in my 3rd year as an apprentice, the Swanson speed square came out.
Wish I had had a digital t-bevel or angle finder
@@keithmarlowe5569 I didn't mention this, but I learned to draw elliptic arches to make brick cradles for arched widows like you see in churches on a framing square.
Hi
In my long past construction days I too used hammer (28 and 32oz) and nail. No air tools but we did use worm gear power saws to make our cuts. Framed. Roofed. Sheet rocked. Cabinetry. No plumbing, No electrical, No Insulation thank you. But I did move onto electronics as my second (and final) career. Retired now.I did emjoy this training video. Clear and concise.
Well done.
@@FreddysHamster th-cam.com/video/bqnr1g7-ixs/w-d-xo.html
Did roofing/siding in the early 70's to the mid 90, helped frame a few homes, still remember sore elbows from swinging the Estwing, no guns, worm drive saws. I still have my Swanson speed square, used it a few months ago replacing some rotted trim (NC weather is brutal on wood trim).
Bravo!! I am less ignorant than I was before after watching this.
Thank you!
Ive been a finish carpenter for over 30 years and I found your explanation very clear. Fortunately I haven't encounter too many acute angles of 60 degrees on the job! Festool makes an angle finder that bisects any angle, I've found this to be an idiot proof solution for me🤣 Thanks for sharing this solution!
your not much of a finish carpenter then are ya lol
I wish people would build each other up in the trades.
@@glenmchargue5461 Couldn't agree more🤣 It's important work that our society needs but there are unhappy people everywhere unfortunately!
Usually 22.5 or 45
Sorry about the A-Hole trolling...
Trim carpenter here. Great explanation/tutorial. Don’t be afraid to add a degree to your cut on baseboard outside angles. this will ensure that the outside of the miter closes up. For example on new construction I typically cut my base with 46 degree angles for standard 90 degree corners.
I was so proud of myself for learning how to use the saw and nail gun and cutting all my 90’s inside and outside corners. Now I’m ready for anything!!!!! Thank you!!!!
I've been doing this for 40 years ,what you just watched was old school carpentry schooling ...very well done brother.
Dude, this has cleared up so much for me. I feel so much more confident in cutting base boards for my wife's kitchen island, now. I am going to redo them because what i did initially is decent but i hate the small caulk filled gaps where i was toying around trying to get them as close as possible to complementing angles. This lesson in cutting angles: GAME CHANGER! THANKS
cutting base boards is about the easiest thing to do in carpentry if you were struggling with that you are pretty fuckin dumb.
The author does like to from scratch, th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
YES INDEED
Thank you for the nice explanation.
There is actually an easier way to determine mitered angles with an angle finder.
First, take the angle of the corner, then subtract it from 180 degrees (for example 120 degrees becomes 60, 90 degrees becomes 90, 60 degrees becomes 120, etc.)
Then, divide the number in half because there’s two pieces making the angle. That’s it.
You’re welcome.
Wait why doesn’t this work with the 60 degree example 120/2 60 but he’s cutting 30
I can work with that! Thanks 👍
@@woopar305 Because he is cutting TWO 30 degree angles - 1 on each board = 60! Duhh, is that really hard for you to understand?
@@scotty362100 take it easy scotty
@@woopar305 Your one of those guys! Passive-aggressive internet snach - try to look witty by your reply, yet not intelligent enough to figure out SIMPLE math. It is a good look for you.
This man gets my Vote! Thank You for letting the blade come to a stop, before raising the head @ 02:39. I’ve gotten a lot of pushback, from others, including a family member that is a contractor, over this. It may take a little extra time, but what cost for safety? Thanks for illustrating the safe use of a saw, as well as prowess on the cuts! Being a former trim carpenter in another season of Life, I can appreciate this. Viewers I hope You took notes! BTW, not raising the carriage on coast down is especially critical on trim pieces. On a framing job, or thicker dimensional lumber, one can get by raising the carriage, but DO NOT let off the trigger until saw is out of the cut. Please stay safe everybody! 👍✌
Thank you very much
This was truly helpful. Just been getting into woodworking and it's people like you and your videos that help people like me learn without making so many mistakes with wood trying to figure things out.
ive found working for a few different construction companies some guys will intentionally tell you wrong so they still have a advantage..id play dumb like i didnt know better but once i got a guy fired cutting tapes measures. I stayed late and caught this asshole with my phone going through a co workers tools so i started recording him cut 1 inch off of 3 tape measures and re-rivet the holder back on all 3 oh this young carpenter tapes ,he was young but very good for his age..The young dude husted his nose the next morning, And made me die laughing when he took 50$ out of his wallet and said that's too replace my measuring tapes you sabotaged. cant lie I was proud of the young kid seeing him do that after showing him the video. Because id of done the Same thing, i told him ill be right behind ya the hole time go confront him...He didn't confront him just walked up said hey asshole, And bunched him right in the nose.. Good hit too. lol anyway Great video huh
How about tuning the angle finder to align with the closest 90-degree measurement? Once that's done, just divide the given degree in half.
I'm sure there are lots of pros that know all of this, everything you showed makes total sense as you're explaining it. It's just not easy for beginners so videos like yours are absolutely brilliant. Thanks for making it and for explaining it so well. I'll be sure to hit the 👍 button
Ive been a carpenter for a long time and this man is demonstrating some very good tips. Great job sir and thank you
25 years in and most guys can't even explain the work they do this is well explained very clean and simplifies it for people that haven't been in the trade well done sir
I've been a carpenter for over a decade and I am always learning!
This will blow your mind then. 180-120= 60. Divide by 2 and you have 30 degrees. Set your saw to 30 degrees
@@ryandiedrich6317 I was actually picking up on that myself. Thanks for the verification bc it wasn’t mentioned that way…so basically just divide each angle in 1/2 again ? Where does the 180 come from though ?
@@prgelectric5104 180 degrees is straight line. Half of a circle which is 360 degrees. This guy did everything correct, i just simplified the math part.
Great video.
One thing I'd mention to all home-shop types - you can spend $1k on the best, biggest sliding miter you can find, but if you don't get the $25 mag. angle finder to use to set the blade and the same $15 angle finder he had to figure the miter - none of it matters. Setting up the saw is the most important step that's skipped by 95% of the people out there.
test blocks and eyeball are better. most saws are off 1/2 degree anyway.
I can't tell you how many hours I've been trying to figure this out! I've watched tons of videos and after watching this one, I couldn't believe how easy it was. THANK YOU!!!!
I do not see what is hard about it....this explanation he give makes it seem harder than it even is! all common cuts will be 0 (90) 45 or 22.5 rarely do you ever need to cut a differant angle than those.
Sir, this is a game-changer - my grandfather, a woodworker, passed before I got this knowledge passed down to me. It's the things like this handed down that makes a difference, I'm sure it says it somewhere in the little yellow booklet I threw away while unboxing my miter saw. You filled in a huge blank spot, and I'll be putting this to use today when I get off work!
I know that most of this should be figured on our own with a little deductive logic, but your demonstration makes it work out much easier in our little brains. Thank you
This video just eased a lot of my anxiety. I've literally been putting off baseboards in my basement because of the angles. I've saved this video in my "How To" playlist for the future. Thanks.
My current project involves cutting multiple 60-degree angles, which I had never attempted before. I decided to leave it for later as I lacked experience with acute cuts. Today, while browsing my TH-cam account, I stumbled upon your informative video. I am grateful for the easy-to-understand instructions that have given me the confidence to carry out the necessary acute cuts and finish my project. Thanks a lot! 😊
You are awesome man! Anyone who does long division, by hand, on a scrap of wood is definitely a mentor who can teach in a way that I can understand! Thanks.
OMG.....I'd been missing trim angles all last summer on my garden boxes. This video helps so much. Thanks
Welcome
30 years of carpentry and I did not know this method of cutting acute angles on a mitre saw, thank you very much, no more block planing that rock hard piece of oak down to fit 👍
Excellent tutorial. I struggled to make the cuts you described - now I know the tricks. Most important: have a digital angle gauge. Once you know the exact angle, you do some math and get perfect miters. Well done.
If you don't have a digital angle finder, it can be done manually with a t-bevel, compass and straight edge. Set the t-bevel angle against the wall, then transfer to a piece of scrap. Bisect the angle using the compass and straight edge. Set the t-bevel to the bisected angle and use that to set the saw.
I love this. So many questions answered in one video. I’m going out to my garage right now to give it a go. This has to be better than my “nibbling” method. Many thanks.
When doing a mitre for acute angled walls, I recommend an infill at the junction point, so (with a 60 degree angle) you would first cut two x 60 degree pieces for the skirting and place each piece in position lining the internal edge with the corner of the wall, you will be left with a gap across the outside edge (because the angles obviously don't match) you then cut a 60 degree wedge piece to fit between them. The wedge essentially has a point on the internal side which meets at the corner point of the wall, the outside of the wedge bridges the gap between the first two skirting pieces. This method divides the acute skirting angle into two-halves and results in a two-step transition of the skirting around the acute wall angle. It alleviates what would otherwise be a sharp angle/point (bit difficult to explain). For example try doing an extremely acute skirting without this technique and you will have a sharp and elongated protruding skirting edge (if it can be cut at all!).
be quiet
Good advice! Thank you :)
Nice one once again. You explain miter angles better than anyone else on TH-cam. 🇮🇪
I been using a miter saw for years,and just learned some new really helpful things.Thank u sir Great job
Nice, some clear info. Though for trim, you’re rarely ever going to find an acute angle like this in a house. But for a wood worker building boxes or something, the jig and math is a great tip.
With baseboards, keep in mind that there is a 1/4” build up on drywall outside corners that will throw things off. The angle finder will only measure the built up part, but the full length board will either need to curve in past that if it’s flexible, or there will be a gap if it’s solid.
Oh, you find them alright. I do staircases, and sometimes doing skirt board moldings where they connect at level runs we have to make what we like to call, suicide cuts, since they’re like 70 degree cuts usually and with small 3/8 x 3/4 “ mouldings.
they're all over my basement, the former home owners built in weird pattern's, it looks cool but was a PITA on adding trim when I redid the floor.
That's what caulking is for, at least in a paint grade situation. Stain grade? Well, that's when I would bust out a rasp or sandpaper, and nibble that bulge down a bit... Find the happy medium as it were, then move on... If the drywaller is worth his weight in salt, he would ensure a nice gradual taper when floating, eliminating the problem. Even "inflexible" trim will usually give a little.
Yup. The drywaller, often me, will only taper out a foot or so, and this is all the angle finder will measure. So, it’ll give you a rough starting point, but you’ll need to adjust, whether that’s with caulking or a rasp, or in my case, just adjusting the cut angle a point or two.
@@markoshun yeah, depending on the circumstances. A degree or two will usually compensate when it's not sloppy mudding. Since I do my own drywall floating as well, it's usually spot on, but sometimes, we have to follow someone else's work... Great video btw...
A simply brilliant demonstration! I will watch this a few more times to be sure I've got this! Thank You!
I'm not a carpenter but love doing repairs around my house. Very well done on the explanation. Can't wait to try it out. Thank you Sir!
There is an easier way to deal with outside angles. Start with your angle finder straight. Adjust the angle to fit the corner. You measured 120 degrees. So you take 180 and subtract 120 and you get 60. So you need to remove 60 degrees total. You want to remove half from each side or 30 degrees.
The way to think of inside angles is just to install one straight cut, miter and back cope the second cut. However, this only works when you are square or more open than 90. A tighter angle will require the first cut to be angled enough that the point fits into the corner. Then miter the 2nd and back cope it to fit.
Zero your angle finder at 90degrees. :)
Man, you're a genius! Zero on the saw = 90 degrees. Of course! Those numbers have been staring me in the face for all the years I've had my mitre saw. I only really ever use 0 and 45 degrees, but now it all makes sense! I need to go and find a weird angle in my house, just so I can cut something to fit it! Thank you so much for this great video!
(180-angle)/2 ... don't mess it up ... complicated math there.
That assessment of 99% is pretty bold statement. Anyone that uses a miter saw regularly should know this.
A very clear explanation. Suggest that a useful extra tip is, cut the mitre half a degree larger (eg 45.5° for outside miter) or half a degree smaller (eg 44.5° for inside miter) to ensure that the visible outside join is tight.
100%
Brilliant. Respect for taking the time to explain. Don’t even have a miter saw yet, but learned something anyway. Greetings from the Netherlands 🇳🇱
My family and I went to the Netherlands on vacation and we loved it!!!
Very helpful and concise. I wish I had found a breakdown of the process like this years ago. Thank you
Came across this by accident and am an avid DIY'er - have struggled with these types of trim cuts before and wondered how the pros do it, this man is a genius as far as I'm concerned 😂😂
Thank you. As a novice woodworker i was wondering how to get acute angles on my Miter , but as a qualified Boilermaker( Steel fabricator) i fully understood how you did that.
I was told to make outside miters 1/2 degree over on each side because walls are never square and it's more important to make sure the outside touches than the inside. I replaced all my baseboard and I had 3 outside miters. worked on all of them. Something about that tiny extra that made them work well. BTW, my house is 50+ years old.
I cut inside corners at 44 and outside at 46 always
@@c_mac7773 46 is a good idea on an outside corner but don't you cope the inside corner?
@@johnklein6040 I always cope if I can but if you're mitering then I'll do 44 or 46 even if it comes out 45° with a gauge. It just makes those areas of contact a little bit tighter
🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
@@c_mac7773 I agree, face has to hit, no gaps to caulk. Has to do with the fat spackle corners. Lol.
@@johnklein6040 yep! Even drywaller's that do a pretty good job always leave the very bottom sloppy of the corner be there inside corners lol
If you double or triple stack and securely clamp your jig block so there is a taller backer for pieces with compound miters when you use a jig it's much easier to keep the piece you are cutting firmly against the block to ensure your cut is straignt from top to bottom.
Was just about to say this. For doing miters "veritically", either because of the specific board or because you only have a single bevel, use a block to space the workpiece a few inches from the fence
You explained that better than anyone has ever been able to explain it to me ever! You sir, are an educator. Thank you
Watched this 4 times and made a world of difference with my cuts! Thank you Champ!!!💯🙏💯
Great video. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I'm a homeowner that's been replacing the builder grade trim in my home (door casings and baseboard) to wider flat-flat front trim. I bought myself a miter saw but it was an entry level saw. I can't stand the 6" base on its end so I have to cut it laying flat. The saw I bought will only miter to the left (sorry if I'm not making any sense). If I need to cut a miter the opposite way I get myself confused every time because I have to flip the baseboard around or upside down or something otherwise I am having to cut using my left hand which doesn't feel safe at all. I'm not sure what the answer is short of buying another much more expensive miter saw which I really can't afford right now. On a side note...all of the wall corners in my house are bullnose so I am going to have to learn how and where to stop the measurement leading up to the bullnose and what kind of angle I need to cut and how to cut those quite narrow pieces that sit right on the bullnose. Ugh!
I know exactly what you are talking about! Having the same issue
Subtract the angle measurement from 180 then divide by 2
A bit more straightforward. 👍🏾
I've been using a miter saw for 42 yrs and never once thought of the scale like that, I never cut one wrong but now I don't know how I haven't!
Thanks a lot! I’m newly retired and starting to get into woodworking so am having to watch a lot of videos. Yours was one of the more helpful I’ve come across!
Everything explained excellent, now I can finish my base boards, I was doing it wrong, thank you very much for this video
Great video. Question: Are you deliberately avoiding the use of the bevel adjustment on your saw?
Thanks, no I’m not. I know lots of people don’t have the bevel adjustment so I kind of stay away from it. Maybe I should make one using it? Thanks
@@SawdustandWood Yea, like Crown Moulding.............now THAT would be some GOOD STUFF and I would tune right in. I can't begin to tell you what was previously said and Expensive Dentil Crown is not something you want to learn on.
Awesome video! Very informative, clear & to the point without annoying music. My dad taught me this years ago & this is the first video I’ve seen that explains it the way he taught me, thank you for sharing this!
Thanks for watching and being part of this channel!!!
You killed it! Complicated but you killed it.
Very informative. Try the Starrett protractor, it’ll make cutting angels much simpler..
I am a very experienced trim carpenter. This is an excellent explanation for finding and cutting angles. There are other ways that work for this as well. But, this is a great tutorial for this method. Well done.
I'm a 30 drywall vet...Great job explaining...MUCH LUV FROM N.AUGUSTA S.C
I’ve never seen this method before, as a mechanical engineer I still love watching other trades to get tips. Every day is a school day, and I’m glad I clicked on this 👏👏👏 As a side note I can’t believe how quiet your saw is, my old Ryobi is approx same size as yours, but as 15 years old, weighs a ton and sounds like a rocket launch in use………………😳
Sorry to preach but please encourage watchers to use gloves, 2 years ago I was cutting scrap wood to burn, I had long lengths in my saw supported by my rollers, as I quickly slid and cut them into 10” pieces. I wasn’t concentrating because I was rushing, and the long end of the wood on my left came off the roller as I slid it towards me. I had my hand on the wood and as the wood tipped up it pushed my hand into the blade which was going at almost full speed. I was wearing gloves and as I looked down there was a cut approx 4” in the top of the glove. I took it off and there was a cut on my middle finger along the whole length above the knuckle and I could see the bone. If I had bare hands it would have been a serious accident, the whole area had no skin to stitch so I did what any other mechanical engineer would do, put toilet roll over the top and taped it in place with electrical tape and went back to work 💪💪💪
Very well explained, angles baffle most of us probably due to not taking geometry at school seriously 🙄
Trigonometry.
Example: total angle 133 degrees…
133/2= 66.5…
90-66.5= 23.5 Degrees is your mitre…
I can’t thank you enough, this calculation has worked flawlessly all week for me. My DIY mitres now look professional 😂😂😂 best tip ever.
mate, this is the best i have seen with the angles, saw another vid, lost me after 45seconds, went all technical, quickly came back to yours. and it sure is the easiest .Many thanks
Outstanding explanation. My brother is a contractor and he tried to explain this once. He was in a hurry and I didn't catch it all. Great tutorial.
99% of people don’t know 7th grade geometry?
Yes…
Geometry!? You'd be shocked. I've had my guys bring back a tip from a job because they didn't know how to split it between themselves.
I already commented once but then I saw the 45 degree jig and I’m so blown away with how simple and effective that was.
I have made numerous jigs to cut crazy angles on wood, flex and pvc trim. Thank you, I learned today
Glad it helped!
I met my girlfriend in the 7th grade. We had 8th grade geometry together. Needless to say I didn't pay attention. Been working with wood since I was 12, but never thought to make a jig for that angle. Great video, thanks!
Im a GC, i do commercial/residential buildouts!!!BUT THIS IS THE 1ST TIME I LEARNED THIS!!!! JUST WOW!!! THANKS FOR THE TIP!!
Finally youtube actually recommends a really good and useful video .incredible cutting skills
OMG, I don’t think I’d have believed this had I not seen it with my own eyes… that was really impressive!
This is great I've been cutting angles for a long time and never even thought about doing this. What a time and material savor.
Awesome demo Chris. Learned a lot. Putting in base board was looking for something like this. Thank you!!!
This is by far have been the best instructions and steps I've came across!! Thank You so much... I recently just purchased my first home and the floors are in, now it's time for new baseboards. That angle finder is a huge help, along with knowing how to make the adjustments to the saw.
Very cool! Excellent explanation for those of us who don't do this type of cutting often. Great to refresh the basic math too ;-)
THANK YOU!!! I would not have figured that out on my own. ❤
Thanx so much for this video I'm a joiner cabinet maker from south africa a client asked me to do his skirting for him which I dnt really do but didn't want to disappoint just finished up his kitchen I needed this
Awesome glad it helped
Always glad to support a fellow cajun
Thank you so much for posting this. I had difficulties making angles cuts under a stair, it was strange and difficult cuts, but you made this so simple to understand, I was able to successfully cut my angles. THANK YOU again!
Very instructional and easy to understand. The only piece of information I would add is depending on your material, you may want to be mindful of blade tear-out. The mitre saw creates tear-out at the back of the piece ( against the fence. ) Again, depending on the material you are cutting, or the type of blade in your saw, you may have to be mindful to keep the exposed or finished side towards you. Great video for general knowledge !
You need to get one of those buttons that say, “That was easy!” when you push it. Thanks for sharing and that was super easy to follow
Thank you for posting, I feel confident enough to make a stool for my dog Lolas water and food bowls. Have a blessed day! :)
Thank you and you’re so right of course about houses angles being extremely varied. That was a huge deal for me when I learned it
yes been there cutting mitres then the wrong direction angle ,you have saved the rain forest with this explanation.
Those acute angles made my brain explode.
Awesome video!! You're right about most houses not being "square, plumb, and level". Your explanations are very clear and concise. Thanks.
Very good ! ! !
Thanks for the lesson ! ! !
I don't have any miter saw yet, but I on the process to get one, that's why I learn first.
Very many thanks from across the pond! I had to watch this video 3 times and on the third run everything just fell into place. Grabbed some scrap timber and it worked so well that I tried again with some UPVC cladding and perfect! It's great to watch a straightforward video without all the hype.
Now all I need is for you to hop over to England and help me finish my project😎
After over 30 years in construction I just learned something about a tool I have used multiple times a day for all those years.
It’s amazing how many of these videos explain this the same way. I’ve seen people put tape on there miter writing in the new angles or taking sharpies and changing the angles on the saw. There is a simple formula that lets you use your existing degrees on your saw, actually 2 formulas, both get the same result. 180 minus your angle then divide by 2, or take your angle divide it by 2 and subtract that from 90. Stop changing the degrees on a miter saw. Ex. Your angle is 120. 180-120=60, divide by 2 = 30, set your saw to 30 and cut. No modifications needed.
This is a brilliant summary. Thank you. 1.7M views is impressive, though 50k are probably just me repeating it. Determined to commit this to long-term memory.
Thank you so much!
I've used this same concept running crown molding with acute angles back in the day in foyers. Thanks for sharing this excellent idea. ⚔️🗿
The best video using a miter saw I’ve ever seen. You could teach a shop class.. if the schools still had them.
Where have you been all this time man? Thanks a thousand
Thank you so much for this GREAT video. My years of butchering trim may be in the past thanks to your demonstration.
props for turning down the volume when you make the cuts. Who needs to hear the saw anyways?
Strange angles always mess me up, I usually guesstimate and work with it. Thanks for showing the math. AND the jig!
Dang! I’ve done baseboards in an apartment, first timer 👍 went ok. A house? Yeah, different story. I’m Canadian so the accent threw me for a loop, but your a genius, I thought this guy is probably efficient at angling gators? You’re angle knowledge is inspiring sir👍
This is a dyslexic’s nightmare, but your explanation makes it tolerable. 👍
The details and examples are 10 out of 10 great job thanks for the stepping stone with this video
You're welcome