Wonderful mention of proper wood filler. More and more people are feeling comfortable trying their hands at labor and repairs and the majority of proper advice rests in verbal history between tradies. Thanks for making proper instruction for "the next guy."
Such great tips. In addition to your fancy hair - I appreciate how you demo using such great props/pieces in great light. So many DIY tips are in hallways, lit with a phone and it is so hard to see. Your instructions are so clear and especially when you note where "some mistakes" are made. Thank you so much!
My wife and I installed the baseboards and trim in our house 15 years ago, and it haunts me to this day. I'm a perfectionist, but had no idea what I was doing and it ain't pretty. Now I know how to fix it! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Drydex was your recommendation in your old video "The Easiest Way to Get Perfect Miters Every Time!!!" Glad to see even the pros like you are constantly learning and improving your craft.
Yes! The Bin shellac primer is amazing! I was just introduced to this and was super impressed. A bit pricey, but 1 coat on bare wood and dries in minutes... totally worth it! And definitely digging the fancy hair!
Needed this video after a few crown molding miter fails. (And no I didn't cope bc I sucked at that 😂). Thanks as always. Your tip on that Elmer's wood filler made my baseboards turn out the best last year. Appreciate your vids!
I'm watching from the UK. I'm looking for some tutorials for a long time to paint my old doors. Finally, I got the confidence to paint my door. Thanks a lot.
The Zinsser BIN primer is fantastic. Did a remodel on a home with a lot of stained oak cabinets, and some painted pine beams with knots bleeding through. The BIN sealed up everything beautifully.
I just found your channel recently and I wanted to let you know you earned a subscription. It was short and to the point, full of information, you didn't have a long introduction and the best part is you didn't have a 2 minute, in-video, ad.
I'm a newbie to all of this having just started learning this stuff during my transition from full time job to these sorts of projects. I can't wait to get corners like yours! Thanks for the info! You are helping more people than you realize.
I’ve paid £700 pounds for a “professional” to do my skirtings badly and se real mitre joints that don’t fit properly together, so I really appreciate people like you teaching how to fix expensive mistakes like this 🙌🏻👏🏻
I've been doing this type of restoration/refresh work for years. I use carpenters wood glue first. That's the key to making these joints solid and able to take a good door slamming.
Yes, the problem with wood filler is that they are just sand/glass powders. They don't expand or contract when temperature or humidity changes, while the wood swells and shrinks, that's how it would crack in dry seasons.
Perfect...as a painter,this is the Exact product and technique I use. As for the primer, advance works well. Advance is a hybrid paint (water based with oil properties). Never had a problem on raw wood with it on small areas. However, you don't want to use it too much because it's quite a bit more expensive than regular primer. I will say..Elmer's wood filler is an essential in my work bag!
This is my full time job on the new build plots go from house to house repairing all kinds of damage it’s unreal some of the rash harsh finishing we come across. Good job bud 👍
I have several ornate (Rocco...Baroque) picture frames which I purchased online. The seller cut them to order from sticks of molding. The miters are off a bit. My fix: Acrylic nail polish in a gold color. Dries hard but just enough flexibility for nanometer movements due to normal changes in humidity. Relatively inexpensive. The brush is tiny so it can flow the polish down deeply. Everything else you mentioned is spot on. I can still learn new or update my thinking after 55 years of hands-on "stuff".
That moment you watch a informative and well made DIY video and say to yourself I rather get pissed off at MY mistakes through a learning curve instead of being pissed off daily by seeing shoddy work from "reputable" builders. God bless friend and appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with us. It's going to be a "hairy" endeavour but I'm gonna give it a go. 🙏💪
Useful tips. You did choose a pretty simple profile for the demonstration. Most old profiles are much harder to fill and sand. But it's fair game I'd say. Thanks.
For real demanding trim/base wood filler situations I prime (either oil or alcohol based) then apply filler, this improves filler adhesion . Some filler manufacturers' instructions include this advise about priming first. And yes, then I prime again.
@matthewphilip1977 It could be water-based primer and that would be effective. On bare wood, imho and from what I've read, oil-based primer is best because it penetrates more on such a porous surface. This seals better and gives more adhesion to the next application. I know it's a pain because of the longer dry time, it's more expensive primer, it smells and brush/roller clean up is way more of a pita than water-based. For a small area I would only use some cheap throw a way brush. An alternative is the same primer in a spray can. A good, popular, in-a-hurry solution is Zinsser BIN primer (alcohol based), also available in a spray can. It is a very fast drying primer.
I've watched a half-dozen of your videos while working on the casing & baseboards on my hallway project and you giggle EVERY SINGLE TIME you say 'Crack'. And now you're laughing at 'blower'. Keep it up bud :) Nice fancy hair BTW.
Following up on this. My house moves too much to use wood filler in the 45° corners. They all cracked in under a week. I'll use wood filler for the nail holes, but everything else needs flexible caulk.
The Zinsser BIN primer is the best especially if you have to cover Smoke damage. It was incredible. I have not used spray cans of it but gallons and 5 gallon buckets. But also use a good respirator if using to cover large areas or whole rooms/ ceilings. Expensive but well worth it in the long run!
Nice hair! The wood filler is what to use to fill in baseboard joints that are starting to have small gaps? Also in my fairly new build ~ the baseboards and door trims are such a mess…😬 globs of caulking and terrible nail fills in spots. Just no care whatsoever and of course this wasn’t super noticeable at first. The sanding sponge looks like that will work great for smoothing that. Thank you
Why I always use caulk instead of wood filler (30 years as a painter): wood filler is not pliable while vinyl or hybrid caulking is. There is a reason why these corners look like that… they are still moving/settling. That wood filler will crack within a month while the caulk will flex and last longer.
@@hyperion112 Pro for 30 years. You are delusional. A DIYer is who would use wood filler on something that is actively moving. I have seen glued joints move all the time because when a 3,000 ton house moves down 1/4" the glue, surprisingly, doesn't hold. No amount of glue is going to stop the house from continuing to settle. You're obviously a hack that walks away without ever thinking about the harm you do to your work.
Walls do move, but never enough to open up a mitre. If a mitre is opening or moving, it's because it wasn't glued correctly. Wood filler is absolutely the go to for trim, not caulk, trim does not ever move enough if glued and pinned properly
Just a general comment about your excellent presentations. You quote the trade names of many products but here in the UK we don't know or don't have these products. They may be available under other names but we can't judge that from your videos. If you could be as helpful as possible with the type of product, that would be great. Keep up the good work!
I'm watching what you are doing and concentrating on what you are saying. Sorry, I don't give a hoot about your hair. Great video as always. I sure LOVE watching a real CRAFTSMAN ply his specialty. THANK YOU.
I like to use Zinsser Ready Patch myself it works with everything Wood ,Drywall,Metal, Masonry,etc.Outdoor or indoor.Its a little pricey for the small can, but if you got kids its a life saver, because its an all in one solution.The smell might put some people off just a heads up.
I say titebond glue on door casing!, unless its mdf then 2p10 is good, but 2p10 might be kind of weak with real wood casing. I would definitely use some kind of clamp when gluing miters together!
I really like the way you Americans craft wooden doors and frames! Here in Europe, the standard doors and frames are factory made, consist of MDF and are CPL coated - just like cheap IKEA furniture. You can't really fix misaligned miters or demages on those.
Why alcohol based primer? And if it’s oil based, will the paint peel if it’s water based? Thanks so much for this video. I always use the pink Drydex and I’m never happy with the result. Yours turned out incredible.
Loved this video thanks can the same steps be used on wooden stair parts it's the wood attached to the wall I don't know what they are called and your hair is very fancy 😊
Thanks for the tip using wood filler on mitres instead of caulk. I have a small front porch entrance needing repainting but some wood boards have weathered cracking. It's not an option to replace, so would you fill with this type of wood filler or use something like epoxy before painting? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Any suggestions about when spraying the primer? I am concerned that I will hit the wall. Does this technique also work with baseboards that don't met in the corner? You are is marvelous.
You can tape it off, or if you are repainting the walls just spray onto them and paint over it. This technique will work well for outside baseboard mitres, but on the inside it’s best to use caulking.
Great video! Yes, lightweight spackle is soft, but does that matter, particularly if you are dealing with the top corner? You also did not explain why caulk is not a good idea. Sandable caulk has worked for me in some contexts.
As a painter “carpenters”using caulk is the bane of my life. They get all giddy with it and want to use it for everything and I have to spend far longer than it would take to fill it properly removing the caulk before I can do anything else. Caulk is just for angle joins and can’t be sanded so put it on smooth or just don’t put it on
Thank you for putting quotes around carpenters. I can assure you that as a carpenter, I would never fill a flat surface with caulk. The guys that do that are hacks that are trying to hide their horrendous cuts from everyone.
Wonderful mention of proper wood filler. More and more people are feeling comfortable trying their hands at labor and repairs and the majority of proper advice rests in verbal history between tradies. Thanks for making proper instruction for "the next guy."
Cheers and thanks for checking out the vid 🍻
I always learn something new from your videos. You make things look so effortless. Have to admit, the out takes at the end are my favorite!😂
@weekendwarrior3420 You nailed it.
😮
Great video, you really help me out.
Such great tips. In addition to your fancy hair - I appreciate how you demo using such great props/pieces in great light. So many DIY tips are in hallways, lit with a phone and it is so hard to see. Your instructions are so clear and especially when you note where "some mistakes" are made. Thank you so much!
My wife and I installed the baseboards and trim in our house 15 years ago, and it haunts me to this day. I'm a perfectionist, but had no idea what I was doing and it ain't pretty. Now I know how to fix it! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
This is literally part of my summer project-correcting the imperfections I introduced replacing the baseboards in my living room two years ago.
Drydex was your recommendation in your old video "The Easiest Way to Get Perfect Miters Every Time!!!" Glad to see even the pros like you are constantly learning and improving your craft.
Yes! The Bin shellac primer is amazing! I was just introduced to this and was super impressed. A bit pricey, but 1 coat on bare wood and dries in minutes... totally worth it!
And definitely digging the fancy hair!
It is...its a must have for painters...
Man, that fancy hair is on point! Great tips for us DIYers as aways!
Needed this video after a few crown molding miter fails. (And no I didn't cope bc I sucked at that 😂). Thanks as always. Your tip on that Elmer's wood filler made my baseboards turn out the best last year. Appreciate your vids!
I'm watching from the UK. I'm looking for some tutorials for a long time to paint my old doors. Finally, I got the confidence to paint my door. Thanks a lot.
The Zinsser BIN primer is fantastic. Did a remodel on a home with a lot of stained oak cabinets, and some painted pine beams with knots bleeding through. The BIN sealed up everything beautifully.
I just found your channel recently and I wanted to let you know you earned a subscription. It was short and to the point, full of information, you didn't have a long introduction and the best part is you didn't have a 2 minute, in-video, ad.
Thanks buddy
I'm a newbie to all of this having just started learning this stuff during my transition from full time job to these sorts of projects. I can't wait to get corners like yours! Thanks for the info! You are helping more people than you realize.
Love seeing shop level quality on trim work, makes a home feel high end.
I agree!
shop level quality wouldn't have blown out miters and uneven planes...i think this is more for home owner mistake fixing
Appreciate how your videos are thorough, concise, and clear. I find them very, very, useful. Thank you!!
I’ve paid £700 pounds for a “professional” to do my skirtings badly and se real mitre joints that don’t fit properly together, so I really appreciate people like you teaching how to fix expensive mistakes like this 🙌🏻👏🏻
I've been doing this type of restoration/refresh work for years. I use carpenters wood glue first. That's the key to making these joints solid and able to take a good door slamming.
Exactly. A mitre that is NOT glued is NOT going to stay tight. Filling a mitre joint is only a temporary fix for it WILL open up with time.
Mine are over a hundred years old. They aren't glued. And there's no gaps. Although I think gluing them is a great idea.
@@msingerdesignsllc3667 Fair enough. My house is still settling and I've had to fix four of them so far.
I have also used wood glue.
Yes, the problem with wood filler is that they are just sand/glass powders. They don't expand or contract when temperature or humidity changes, while the wood swells and shrinks, that's how it would crack in dry seasons.
I use Bondo. It is structurally strong and will adhere the two pieces together plus fill the gap then finish as shown in the video.
I like using bondo too. Good stuff for projects like this.👍
Spot on. That's how I do it, and my customers are always very pleased with the results.
Have a great day.
Perfect...as a painter,this is the Exact product and technique I use. As for the primer, advance works well. Advance is a hybrid paint (water based with oil properties). Never had a problem on raw wood with it on small areas. However, you don't want to use it too much because it's quite a bit more expensive than regular primer. I will say..Elmer's wood filler is an essential in my work bag!
Thank you! Great info. I especially like the tip about using the corner of the putting knife to clean up that inside corner.
Excellent as always! I’ve been remodeling a house for the past couple of years and your tips and tricks have been a life saver!
Had to watch the video twice because the 1st time I was distracted by the fancy hair.. 🤣 Great video! Precise and concise!
🤣it’s my new watch time strategy 🤗
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Genius! 🤣
This is my full time job on the new build plots go from house to house repairing all kinds of damage it’s unreal some of the rash harsh finishing we come across. Good job bud 👍
I have several ornate (Rocco...Baroque) picture frames which I purchased online. The seller cut them to order from sticks of molding. The miters are off a bit. My fix: Acrylic nail polish in a gold color. Dries hard but just enough flexibility for nanometer movements due to normal changes in humidity. Relatively inexpensive. The brush is tiny so it can flow the polish down deeply. Everything else you mentioned is spot on. I can still learn new or update my thinking after 55 years of hands-on "stuff".
Great stuff, camera work was top notch 👊
Thanks Scott🍻
You often enough give us good food for thought and make us have better results. Thank you
Thanks for watching Randy🍻
Thanks for sharing! I didn't know it's best to use an oil based primer on bare wood. I'm adding that to my home depot list.
These videos are really cool. I’ve been watching a bunch of them. Thanks for making them.
That moment you watch a informative and well made DIY video and say to yourself I rather get pissed off at MY mistakes through a learning curve instead of being pissed off daily by seeing shoddy work from "reputable" builders. God bless friend and appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with us. It's going to be a "hairy" endeavour but I'm gonna give it a go. 🙏💪
Nice "fancy hair"...Thank you for this tip...Much needed for the average Do-It-Yourself home owner!
Thanks for checking out the vid🍻
Thankyou for your video, i am about to do all the trim on my house.. Dont listen to stupid comments, great video
Useful tips. You did choose a pretty simple profile for the demonstration. Most old profiles are much harder to fill and sand. But it's fair game I'd say. Thanks.
Dang that actually looks really good. Nice shop too
Wow dude, the cinematography of this video looks great. Well done. I’ve enjoyed your channel for a long time. Cheers from a fellow Canadian
Thank you for putting out such useful and well-crafted videos!
For real demanding trim/base wood filler situations I prime (either oil or alcohol based) then apply filler, this improves filler adhesion . Some filler manufacturers' instructions include this advise about priming first. And yes, then I prime again.
@matthewphilip1977 It could be water-based primer and that would be effective. On bare wood, imho and from what I've read, oil-based primer is best because it penetrates more on such a porous surface. This seals better and gives more adhesion to the next application.
I know it's a pain because of the longer dry time, it's more expensive primer, it smells and brush/roller clean up is way more of a pita than water-based. For a small area I would only use some cheap throw a way brush. An alternative is the same primer in a spray can.
A good, popular, in-a-hurry solution is Zinsser BIN primer (alcohol based), also available in a spray can. It is a very fast drying primer.
Your videos are so helpful, they’re addicting. I started one and have linked to 3 others.
Thanks for watching Jane! It's appreciated:)
Great video. The caulking video actually helped me out a bunch recently, keep on making these.
Cheers John, that’s great to hear
Love the haircut and the new setup too. Good work!
YOUR Hair is Definitely Fancy... I Love It !!! ♥
This tutorial was so helpful, however, I couldn't tear my eyes away from your fancy hair!!!
Great tips in a short cohesive video. I learned some of these steps the hard way. Definitely improved over time.
I've watched a half-dozen of your videos while working on the casing & baseboards on my hallway project and you giggle EVERY SINGLE TIME you say 'Crack'. And now you're laughing at 'blower'. Keep it up bud :) Nice fancy hair BTW.
It’s gotta be hard to have a channel about crack and caulk w/o laughing
Following up on this. My house moves too much to use wood filler in the 45° corners. They all cracked in under a week. I'll use wood filler for the nail holes, but everything else needs flexible caulk.
@@debs-101 So hard
The Zinsser BIN primer is the best especially if you have to cover Smoke damage. It was incredible. I have not used spray cans of it but gallons and 5 gallon buckets. But also use a good respirator if using to cover large areas or whole rooms/ ceilings. Expensive but well worth it in the long run!
Loved the fancy hair lol. Great tips, and the outcome looked perfect. Thanks!
Ready Patch® works really well too. With the bonus that it's good for interior & exterior stuff. It's a good filler for so much.
Thats my go to, impressively crack resistant. I even repair plaster cracks with it.
@@jamesjetson3812 It's really amazing stuff, isn't it?
Nice hair! The wood filler is what to use to fill in baseboard joints that are starting to have small gaps? Also in my fairly new build ~ the baseboards and door trims are such a mess…😬 globs of caulking and terrible nail fills in spots. Just no care whatsoever and of course this wasn’t super noticeable at first. The sanding sponge looks like that will work great for smoothing that. Thank you
I thought he had missed a bit but it was a spot on my screen 😆thank for the instruction as I frame a lot of my work and utilise old frames sometimes 😀
Great video. Super helpful.
Wish I had that much hair...
your hair is fancy
I’ve got to get back to the barber and get a little trim!
It was sanded and filled too, now you can see the results
Brylcreem sheen
When you go to the barber, get the beard shaved off too....😅
Fancier than 99% of all haircuts
Why I always use caulk instead of wood filler (30 years as a painter): wood filler is not pliable while vinyl or hybrid caulking is. There is a reason why these corners look like that… they are still moving/settling. That wood filler will crack within a month while the caulk will flex and last longer.
You need to glue the joint first, that will stop any relative movement between the trim pieces, then the wood filler should work perfectly.
@@hyperion112 That obviously didn't work the first time... the wall is still moving. Use caulking.
@@Fortylat obviously the joint wasn't glued, caulking miters is for flippers and DIYers not for professionals.
@@hyperion112 Pro for 30 years. You are delusional. A DIYer is who would use wood filler on something that is actively moving. I have seen glued joints move all the time because when a 3,000 ton house moves down 1/4" the glue, surprisingly, doesn't hold. No amount of glue is going to stop the house from continuing to settle. You're obviously a hack that walks away without ever thinking about the harm you do to your work.
Walls do move, but never enough to open up a mitre. If a mitre is opening or moving, it's because it wasn't glued correctly. Wood filler is absolutely the go to for trim, not caulk, trim does not ever move enough if glued and pinned properly
Just a general comment about your excellent presentations. You quote the trade names of many products but here in the UK we don't know or don't have these products. They may be available under other names but we can't judge that from your videos. If you could be as helpful as possible with the type of product, that would be great. Keep up the good work!
That's a great point, thanks for bringing it up.
These are the tips I have been looking for.
First video of yours I watched. I appreciate the info. and the fancy hair!
Great technique. Awesome recommendations on materials. Cool hair. Trifecta.
Outstanding. Gonna use all of this.
Now I have to come up with a project to try this out, looks great👍🏻
Always a fan of one more blow and a final wipe!!! 😂😂😂
I'm watching what you are doing and concentrating on what you are saying. Sorry, I don't give a hoot about your hair. Great video as always. I sure LOVE watching a real CRAFTSMAN ply his specialty. THANK YOU.
Nice hair :) hanks for the run through it will come in handy when I get to that stage in my project.
excellent work. Thanks for the tip
Fancy here for a modern day, bob vila
Thank you for making this video definitely very helpful. Appreciate you
Nice, Museum interior finish quality. Time for the white glove test 😂. Nice YT channel 👍👌
came here for fancy hair and was not disappointed. also the tip was useful.
This was a Fantastic information and a well done video THANK YOU for making it! Yes I’d watch more. 😊
That's some fancy hair you have bro. Great tips!
If you're not painting, save the sawdust from the project to mix with white glue for a color matched wood filler.
Even though ALL my miters look great 100% of the time, thanks for these tips.
I like to use Zinsser Ready Patch myself it works with everything Wood ,Drywall,Metal, Masonry,etc.Outdoor or indoor.Its a little pricey for the small can, but if you got kids its a life saver, because its an all in one solution.The smell might put some people off just a heads up.
Love the hair! Very fancy!!!
Wow I'm really glad I found your channel. This is incredibly helpful!! Thank you!
I say titebond glue on door casing!, unless its mdf then 2p10 is good, but 2p10 might be kind of weak with real wood casing. I would definitely use some kind of clamp when gluing miters together!
I am 63 and going bald.....totally dig your fancy hair bro! Cheers from Osoyoos, eh. :)
This will come in handy. Many thanks!
--won't mention the hair, just that you rock! Thanks for the video.
Enjoyed your video very much. How do you fix wood joints that aren’t painted?
Another great video! Could you do a video on fixing nail pops in drywall?
You should check out Vancouver Carpenter, he’s the drywall guru!
Love the fancy hair!
Great tip man. I'm embarrassed to say I was using caulk...
I really like the way you Americans craft wooden doors and frames! Here in Europe, the standard doors and frames are factory made, consist of MDF and are CPL coated - just like cheap IKEA furniture. You can't really fix misaligned miters or demages on those.
perfect timing! thanks for posting.😀
Best wishes!
You look fine, great tips and such carisma. Thank you for sharing.
Why alcohol based primer? And if it’s oil based, will the paint peel if it’s water based? Thanks so much for this video. I always use the pink Drydex and I’m never happy with the result. Yours turned out incredible.
Great information. Really enjoy your videos. Very professional. Thank you.
Loved this video thanks can the same steps be used on wooden stair parts it's the wood attached to the wall I don't know what they are called and your hair is very fancy 😊
Thanks for the tip using wood filler on mitres instead of caulk. I have a small front porch entrance needing repainting but some wood boards have weathered cracking. It's not an option to replace, so would you fill with this type of wood filler or use something like epoxy before painting? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Any suggestions about when spraying the primer? I am concerned that I will hit the wall. Does this technique also work with baseboards that don't met in the corner? You are is marvelous.
You can tape it off, or if you are repainting the walls just spray onto them and paint over it. This technique will work well for outside baseboard mitres, but on the inside it’s best to use caulking.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter recommended caulk?
OR.......bondo! Good for chips in trim that have that really thick coating. But that takes a bit more work to get right
I find you have to be pretty skilled to use Bondo with good success.
Nice presentation…really interested in oil based primer rather than water based
Great video! Yes, lightweight spackle is soft, but does that matter, particularly if you are dealing with the top corner? You also did not explain why caulk is not a good idea. Sandable caulk has worked for me in some contexts.
I noticed your fancy hair! Smashed the like for the great tips before I commented…great, concise tips as per usual!
after you put a bunch of time and effort into this, what prevents the miters from opening back up?
Love the fancy hair 😀
Great instructional video!
Great tips! The new camera is super pro! 🤘
Thanks buddy🍻
Fancy hair! And thank you very much for the video.
Excellent video. Thanks
As a painter “carpenters”using caulk is the bane of my life. They get all giddy with it and want to use it for everything and I have to spend far longer than it would take to fill it properly removing the caulk before I can do anything else. Caulk is just for angle joins and can’t be sanded so put it on smooth or just don’t put it on
Thank you for putting quotes around carpenters. I can assure you that as a carpenter, I would never fill a flat surface with caulk. The guys that do that are hacks that are trying to hide their horrendous cuts from everyone.
Dude your shop is beautiful
Great video, and sir, your hair is *very* fancy and I approve 👌
Fancy hair.... oh, that's too cute😊 nice video... thx