Sprayable Body Filler
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Why spread it when you can spray it?
Here is a quick demo of Car System's "Spray", a sprayable polyester body filler. Spray is more user friendly, and cost effective, than the leading polyester primers on the market. This product will help you get that flawless finish you want on your vehicle.
We want to give Gary Van Horn a huge THANK YOU for giving us a chance to do this demo with him!
Learn more about us at:
autopaintplusp...
I love how these people have had a great time with some polyester filler
Sprayable filler aka feather fill is the way to go . Nailed it when he said it lays on evenly vs a spreader. Never ever going to get a spreader to lay a nice dry film on a panel evenly especially over the body lines. We use optex super build primer/sealer and it has a built in guide coat that sprays pink and sands to grey . Little more expensive for some but it's basically an all in one
Sounds mad
I build bucks for composite molding, so sprayable filler has always intrigued me. Looks like massive time saving potential, especially when the part will be discarded after the mold is created. Thanks!
I’m impressed I mean I’m no expert on painting cars but I’ve mixed a batch of filler once or twice and what you say makes sense but to hear people who do this kind of work every day and seeing how happy they are if a glowing endorsement to time savings less hassle and a great finish.
I used a similar product on a large roof. It was tough to sand. Take into consideration you have to work quick and clean out your gun thoroughly so it doesn't harden.
Most polyester fillers, like Feather Fill, are hard to sand. This product sands like a glazing putty so is very easy to work with. Very true about cleaning your gun! Clean it quick and well because if it hardens in the gun, buy a new gun 😅
Can’t believe this is being called out as a new concept. I’m in the UK and in my teens I was using a spray filler (brand name Lesonal I think) and I’m in my 50’s now. Very effective way of doing it.
I’m familiar with UPol spray filler
He SAID it is old school.... 1:11
Please Edit your comment, they are just introducing a new product.
This product has certain applications that are very useful.
@@David-uu1oj if it’s really that important I’m sure the poster would have asked me by now, you’re replying to a 4 month old comment father all!
The concept isn’t new. Products like this have been around for a long time, but like any product they have improved chemistry, quality, and usability. We just wanted to show that it’s still around and better than ever.
The key here is like he said, "you have got real close" (as a DIY'er) and you dont want to smear more filler on and start all over.......I'm off to buy some!!
We’ve been using thsi product for about the last 6-8 months and really love it.
Years ago my boss had a bad habit of not stirring paint etc enough. Sometimes 6-8 strokes. Sometimes paint did not adhere well. Sprayable filler on one car stayed gummy, had to be scraped off. STIR WELL.
It looks great guys 👍 I own and operate a body shop in the north east. Built a business on rust repair! Currently restoring a 64 Chevelle convertible. I may try this out!
That’s awesome! We love seeing the success of small businesses! Give us a call or shoot us an email if you have any more questions 👍🏻
Looks amazing! I have to try that on my next project!
That bodywork has so many highs and lows prior to the polyester coating
Definitely getting some of this for my build...awesome!
Upol high build primer is basically spray able filler that stuff is crazy thick
I live pretty close and would love to see your work from a fellow restoration geek to another
Come stop by the store or give us a call sometime, we would love to arrange something! All our info is on our website autopaintpluspf.com 👍🏻
Back at it again So many debates over this. Just got off the phone with Tamco they said no filler on bare metal creates heat then condensation on metal and to put over there DTM high build 5310. I do not need epoxy if car is inside all the time it will save you a lot of money just block and top coat your done and still have epoxy properties in the DTM.
Any catalyzed product is going to create heat and condensation, that’s part of the process of cross linking chemicals. That includes DTM high build primers, epoxy primers, and body filler. But the amount of condensation created is so minimal that the corrosion resistant properties in the primers and fillers are still able to adhere well to the metal and not fail over time.
@@autopaintplusid4197 So you would still go to metal with filler or epoxy 1st?
PART 2 ON THE WAY! In the next video we will be addressing a lot of your questions, including; when, and when NOT, to use it, how it sands, in depth technical data, and more.
Thank you so much for watching and interacting!
What state are you in?
We’re in north Idaho
Do yall have information on how to contact and get work done because I'm all the way in Georgia. An Whats and estimate on something like yall did in the video. Got a 1970 Chevy Impala Bubble. Need paint job like that.
Our website is in the description. You can find our phone number and email there. We would be happy to talk and give you whatever information you need!
We wouldn’t recommend putting a standard glazing putty through your gun. We recommend getting a product that is meant to be sprayed.
Definitely want to try this on my drop top in a few weeks
It’s a great product! Hop on our website and give us a call or email if you have any questions!
I used that voss chem stuff when I did my cutlass. It was amazing and my local supplier stopped carrying it. Sands like butter.
They have so many great products! CarWorx is the main line they sell through now. I’d go bug your supplier to get some of their products!
Ppg makes a two part filler primer use it all the time
Would be great for deep sanding scratches, and tiny imperfections. Would it be a good idea to spray that black paint on it that helps show any imperfections when sticking it out?
Exactly! Instead of smearing uneven amounts of glazing putty on, you can spray an even coat on the whole panel. Then you can guide coat it, like you said, block it one more time, and prime it.
In humid areas I will address bare metal with epoxy. The polyester resin that harden with a methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is the same chemistry for fiberglass. This is generally hard to sand and pot life is short. Since it has no protection from moisture and no mention of pot life, shrinkage or grit used to start after a day, to me maybe and over sight for the video, but I can’t do this everyday any more, so it bothers me.
I will remind the DIYers your base coat products is you paint job. I saw lot of orange peel in the video which that has to come down, leaving product on the floor. Now 2022, this video is 2 years out. Never heard of before or since but that depends on market share.
I will strip bare, hammer & dolly, clean, clean & clean but stick to epoxy and 2K high build, guide coat and stop when I see base colors change as I near metal. If good, epoxy w/10% nice and smooth, base and clear. But that’s me. DK ase master tech since 1978, retired.
Thanks for your comment, sir. I'm "old school" TOO 😏 Even at 49 y.o. and partially retired. Fortunately, I come from a collision/restoration family and again, luckily? I DID HAVE a Vo-Tech autobody instructor that DID teach me the correct hammer 🔨 and dolly/torches and shrinking methods even BACK in 91-92. As I HAVE and AM also constantly applying them to my restorations 😏👍 Thanks again Ken! R.I.P. And MOST of the students said ALL that old school shyt was just a WASTE A TIME for the FUTURE daze of body and paint.......😏
I’m looking at that quarter and puzzled by your comment that it’s pretty close. Looks like it could have used a lot more metal work before you started piling bondo on. And where’s the epoxy foundation? That is rule number one on a high end show car. You guys should know that.
What are you going to do for the customer when that paint job starts coming undone after a couple years? Seen it way to many times my friend.
We’re not building the car, its one of our customers vehicles and that’s how they decided to do the quarter. We were there to demo this product, not critique their body work. We don’t usually use body filler over top of an epoxy, it can soften your epoxy and cause adhesion issues and possible failures down the road.
@@autopaintplusid4197 On any restoration you want to last, the procedure is to start at bare metal. All bare metal is then locked down with epoxy primer to seal the metal. Then the metal work begins. Once to body work all bare metal again sealed down with epoxy primer. Any
areas that are to be bodyworked are then scuffed with eighty grit before applying filler. I have paint jobs I did 30 years ago that look like the day they were finished.
Collision/Production bodywork is a different story.
Fillers applied over bare metal will ALWAYS fail over time due to condensation that develops between the bare metal and the repair compound.
If you don’t know this you should be in a different field.
We agree with you that an epoxy is necessary to ensure the best durability and longevity. Going with epoxy before filler is one way to do it, but you can go body filler then epoxy without issues. Body fillers now have DTM and corrosion resistant properties to prevent failures.
The purpose of this video was to showcase a product, not a full restoration video. We are going to be doing a follow up video with a better explanation of the product and answer as many questions as possible.
Great channel my friend and great job!!!
Thank you! We have more videos coming soon, we hope you like them!
i saw pond bullseye at 5:37 on the door panel.i been doing it over 25 years.if you block sand it out all good.
I like Z-Chrome, same stuff only I think think it builds thicker and better
You should send some of that product to BAD CHAD.
if your bodywork is crappy you'll need about 3 gallons of this spray to cover up all your imperfectons and then some.
Good afternoon, really interesting product. Where is it available in the States? Thank you.
've done a lot of duratec 707-002, nice and thick. Binks 2001 with a 2.8 tip and 2 quart preasure pot.
Wow that is some great stuff👍
if a person isn't any good at body work this isn't a magic bullet.
Been using feather fill for years . Same diff.
It’s not the same as FeatherFill. FeatherFill was made for the marine industry, not the automotive industry. It sands poorly and doesn’t have as good of film build. This product sands like a glazing putty and has a better build.
Yes I have used feather fill a long time Won car shows for me and customers Have used on boats Works good cars bikes and boats Looks the same to me
This looks like the 2 k high build urethane primer sealer me and my son used on his 1955 Chevy truck, we where stund after done painting the truck ! That and blocking, when you think your done blocking, block some more !
Dont know the mils compared to a 2K primer but it seems like if you was a good bodyman and had it close a good primer would do the same thing.?
This product isn’t meant to replace primer, it’s meant to replace a glazing putty. When you spread glazing putty over your body filler, it goes on uneven. Then you have to re-sculpt that area. Spraying it through a gun makes sure it all goes on even.
@@autopaintplusid4197 Yes I get what your selling point is, but its goin the same thing primer does. Because be for this the bodyman didnt need to do all this if he knew how to do great bondo work. Guess Im just old school for sure. When you used bondo and primer if you needed puddy you used very little. The less you use better the job, And keeping cost down. Thanks you for your time reading my thoughs, Take care.
You need to get that in a spray can. I hope someone will make it available to us ameteur body guys.
That would be a helpful tool for those without spray equipment
Will this eventually crack over time? Looks like a better process than the other way.
Any product will fail if used improperly. So if you try and put it on 3 inches thick it will probably crack out. If you use it as a glaze, or skim coat, you won’t have any issues.
I have an old fj55 with a rusty roof. Still very solid but pitted. After removing the rust, would this be a good product to smooth it out? Great video. 👍
The best thing to do would be remove the rust, then use and epoxy with a high film build followed by a high build 2K primer. You’ll probably need to block sand and re-prime a couple times to make sure everything is flat.
When you have badly pitted steel you want to make sure those pits get filled with a product that has the best bare metal adhesion and corrosion resistance as possible, and that’s your epoxy.
Thank you for watching and the question!
@@autopaintplusid4197 thanks for the advice. Much appreciated. 👍
Shocked that the metal isn't first protected with epoxy. Sure, you can end up with a nice finish....but let's see how it has held up after 6 years.
How thick can you build it up. I mean can you fill dips with it? How is shrinkage? And any air bubbles?
You want to get as much major body work done as possible before using this product. 2 coats will give you about 10 mills of thickness, so it does have very good filling abilities to cover some imperfections. And because it’s being sprayed instead of spread, you don’t have the issue of air bubbles or pinholes.
Hello from puertorico I use the product is the best I use
Slick Sand is a good product I would’ve put an Apoxsee primer coat first let it flash so that it’s tacky but doesn’t stick to your finger than spray on your sprayable body filler come back the next day and block the sticks better and keeps water off of the metal
Clausen makes spray mud,works good ,last for years!!
Restoring my 70 SS Nova now. Did that Poly dry yellow? Also what grit paper do you stop with before 2k? 320? Lookin Good...
The yellow is actually a high build primer they put over the Spray. As for what grit to use, we would recommend finishing with 180-220 before your 2K. If it is a good high build primer it will easily fill those scratches while giving it a bit more to bite into.
good video and info- too bad the guys in the background interfered with your presentation; hard to focus with all the background chatter, thank,s pp
Looking to invest in this product in Trinidad and tobago
You can check the CarWorx website and see if they have any distributors near you.
I can just tell by looking at that quarter panel that it is not straight at all? It definitely needs a nice evenly spread coat of filler and blocked out nicely before spraying any of that on there. Doing the filler work really good is a much better way to go that loading this stuff on so it can crack down the road. Just speaking from experience after doing high quality restoration work for over 30 years.
I think you misunderstood what this product is. This is body filler. But instead of spreading a coat of filler by hand, which will be uneven no matter how hard you try, you are spraying it through your gun to ensure even coverage over the entire surface. This isn’t changing the body work process, just how you apply you products.
I just restored a Jaguar that was sprayed with a similar product, it FAILED miserably
All products that are misused will fail. Our customers have used this product on dozens of vehicles, including multiple high end builds, and never had an issue. User error is far more common than product failure, that goes for most products.
Would you recommend this spray filler with 1/4 inch dents, tiny holes, and welding imperfections? Car was in a wreck and I'm making a project to restore it (96 Camaro). Good with my hands but not a pro at this type of stuff and saving time is always a plus.
You want to do the main body work with a standard filler first and get everything reasonably straight then follow it with the spray filler. It’s like using a glazing putty, just more effective than trying to spread it evenly with a spreader.
@@autopaintplusid4197 Thank you! That makes more sense to me now. I'm working this thing slowly lol!
Hmm, why do you suppose a spray gun has a trigger? Do you have any idea how much material you waste by not using it. 🤔
isn't this like 2k high build
Not quite, it has a much higher build than a high build primer and sands nicer. It would be similar to doing a skim coat with glazing putty, but instead of spreading it your spraying it. That way you end up with an even amount on the panel.
Evercoats Slick sand product sprayed out of a 1.8 tip is just as good and it doesn’t need a special reducer you can use acetone or xylene one gallon on this product is under 100$
This product can be reduced with acetone as well. Slick Sand is comparable product but it doesn’t have nearly the film build this one does, that’s why you can spray it out of a 1.8.
That quarter was definitely not ready for primer and by the look of it at the end of the video they primed it a second time
That isnt primer that was the sprayable body filler. Its similar to using icing but its sprayable, the yellow coat you see at the end is the first coat of primer.
I've used 'Feather Fill' in the past. Is this product pretty much the same?
We’ve been waiting for this question! Feather Fill is similar but it was designed for fiberglass. The Spray filler was designed for the automotive industry so it is has much better film build, bare metal adhesion, and it is much easier to sand.
@@autopaintplusid4197 thanks for that answer.
i tried feather fill once...sanded horrible!..i spent more money on loaded up sandpaper
Feather Fill definitely has its purposes but body work is not one of them 😅
How you sand it ?
please show me
Fantastic thanks
Good product but its best to spray over an epoxy,it sucks on bare metal,future rust galore.
Looks great
How it works is this go before nice putty or after nice puty and before filer
How is this different than 2k Primer? Was the wheole car cover in this?
This is a sprayable glazing putty. It’s only meant to give you an even skim coat over your main body work areas to fill any small imperfections or pin holes in your body filler. You only apply it on areas with body work. It has a higher film build and better sandability than a standard 2K primer.
@@autopaintplusid4197 Sweet, I got a 68 Wildcat that I will be restoring.
Tremendo megusto👍
Hi mate thanks for the video. I have some upol reface which looks to be essentially the same kind of product. If I apply this over bare metal, will I need to etch primer over the top of the filled areas before hitting it with 2k primer to prevent rust? Thanks.
You would be better off using an epoxy primer, making sure you give it a full cure cycle, instead of an etch prime. Etch primer and polyester products are not compatible.
@@autopaintplusid4197 thanks for the reply mate, I greatly appreciate it. Would a 1k epoxy be fine or do I need to go with a 2k epoxy?
We always recommend 2K products over 1K, they have better durability and longevity. Your paint job is only as strong as the weakest part, so if that epoxy fails everything on top of it is coming off as well. Thank you for watching and for the great questions!
Thank you for the answer
Can you spray Acrylic primer and paint over it,
Yes you can 👍
@@autopaintplusid4197 Thank you very much, do you have any tips on spraying Acrylic metallic paint so it goes on even
@@autopaintplusid4197 what is the name of the product sir
@@jacgelacousticduo6132 It's called "Polyester Spray Filler" made by Carworx or Car System.
USC spray polyester is the best
what will they think of next.
Can u use this as a primer and paint over it
No, you can’t spray color directly over it, you will need a primer or sealer. It would be like spraying your color directly over body filler.
I hope this one don't Crack and split like most others
so it looks like the rear fender flares have been increased from stock flare by about 2 inches?
Good eye! They did weld flares on.
Where in SC can i buy this product ,,will it work on aluminum boats
This product does not adhere to aluminum 😕 The majority of body fillers or glazes don’t adhere well to aluminum.
I've heard about spray filler not working well with other filler, some chemical reaction that ends up cracking and flaking off the metal in a few months. It looks like they sprayed right over some bondo, will it still hold? I have a 1960 MGA I am restoring, and it has a lot of curves. I am removing a previous glazing over the entire body, that was hand done, and 1/8 - 3/16" or more at some places. When I get it down to bare metal, how can I treat the metal, and use this sort of product? Can I fill over it when imperfections show up after spraying this on?
It’s the same process as applying a glazing putty over your body filler (just using a gun instead of a spreader), there should be no adverse reactions. All product will fail if they are used incorrectly. So if you try and put it on 3 inches thick it will eventually crack out. If you use it as a glaze, or skim coat, you won’t have any issues.
As far as treating metal, as long as it’s clear of rust or any other contaminants you are good to use your filler directly over it. Do the majority of your bodywork with a body filler, then you would use this over top to fill any minor imperfections or pinholes, and block it out until it’s smooth. Finish with a DTM high build primer or an epoxy ( if there is bare metal ) or a standard 2K high build primer if there is no bare metal showing. From there you can sand and prime until you’re ready for paint.
If the viewer could have seen a guide coat sprayed on and some actual sanding being done would have made this more convincing.
We plan on doing that in the next video so stay tuned!
Where can I get some of this from?
You can visit Carworx website and see if there’s a vendor near you.
Good thing it sands easily, considering how much orange peel it left behind.
Most of that shrinks down when it drys. You can’t expect a product this thick to lay out like glass.
@@autopaintplusid4197 Like I said, good thing it sands easily.
So.. I'm "guessing" that THAT polyester primer you are plugging here in the vid IS completely designed to go over bare metal TOO? (Unlike lotta/most polyester primers).... NOT a lick of Epoxy Sealer on there 😬. BEST of luck with that, and mother nature/time/adhesion/hold up etc. NOT hatin, just statin. Happy Restoring! 😎🤘
How would this work with fiberglass? I have done paint work on aircraft parts and pinholes are always an issue to address. Thanks..
It does a great job filling pinholes!
If anyone is winning Good Guys shows with quarters like that, it's only because of 100 mils of sprayable bondo. Geesus, it looks like a bag full of walnuts.
Different customers have different budgets. Some can’t afford new panels and the cost to replace them so extra body work is their next option.
@@autopaintplusid4197 Cave and pave. Always ends up biting you in the ass. I stopped trying to save customers money 30 years ago. If you're trying to cut corners on a luxury item, just to get work, you'll always be an average body man. Cut the goddamn quarter off, repair the (100% rusted wheelhouse and repair it properly) and do it right. It's straightening agent, not a magic wand. I only have so many restorations in me, if someone doesn't want to pay to do the job correctly, find a hack who will. Leave that quarter in a dark color in the sun here in Florida. It will look like a topo map.
We totally understand what you’re saying and we at Auto Paint Plus always recommend doing everything the right way and to avoid cutting corners. But, in the end, we can’t stop them from doing it the way they want, we can only supply them with the products to do the best job possible.
@@autopaintplusid4197 I'm sure your products are top notch. I've used high build primers for decades and they've never been better, but if you can't see shadows of the substrate through most if the car, it needs more metal work.
@@jamescon55 Yeah. Just like I said. Cave and pave. And when it comes back because 1/4" of sprayable bondo fails, you're the first one to em eff the customer after they get done bad- mouthing your shit work, and want you to fix it for free. Every one has time for comebacks. You gotta love a craftsman. Showing how thick sprayable filler can be applied to hide abortion bodywork instead of actually repairing the panel, sounds about like how you write. And the customer gets fuked again.
Did yall water block ?
Because polyester primers and fillers are so porous we only dry block them. But we do wet sand our primer.
Pls I want to know the market name 4 the materials you people used
It’s called “Polyester Spray Filler” and the company is CarWorx
Please let me know what yellow primer product used on this project.
It was a 2K high build primer surfacer.
Yeah, ppg had a similar product in the eighties.
There were a lot of similar products in those days but they had a lot of issues. The chemistry has come a long way since then so the products are far more reliable and user friendly.
Will it shrink after time like the old spray on fillers
No, there is little to no shrinkage.
wHY the orange peel texture?
It’s a high build polyester primer, it’s not going to lay out like clear coat. It’s meant to give you a thick consistent layer for you to easily block out any imperfections, so you’ll be sanding that orange peel down anyway.
It looks like it is Orange Peeling like crazy !
Products this thick are bound to have a bit of orange peel, but most of that goes away when it dries.
When it's thinned down this much is it about as thick as a high build primer?
2 coats will give you about 10 mils, so it is thicker than a standard high build primer. But this product isn’t meant to replace your primer, it’s meant to replace your glazing putty.
How do you like feather fill?
We’re not big fans. It sands poorly and doesn’t have the greatest film build. But a lot of guys use it and we don’t judge. 😁
Looks like high build or father fill to me These two products work fine for me I dont see any difference
This isn’t meant to replace primer, it’s meant to replace glazing putty. Instead of doing a skim coat with a spreader you do it with a gun. It has a lot of the same properties as feather fill but this product has better film build and it sands far better than feather fill does.
LOL FeatherFill used it in the late 70's
This product is much better, and less $, than FeatherFill. FeatherFill was created for the marine industry, it sands like concrete and doesn’t have as good of film build.
Isnt this just called Hi-build primer?
This is a sprayable glazing putty. Instead of spreading it, you’re shooting out of a gun. It’s only meant to give you an even skim coat over your main body work areas to fill any small imperfections or pin holes in your body filler. You only apply it on areas with body work. It has a higher film build and better sandability than a standard 2K primer.
where can I order this?
www.carworx.net/about
You can contact them directly to find a supplier near you 👍🏻
How many mils per coat
Depending on your tip size and how heavy you spray, 5-7 dry mils.
So it's about the same as slick sand
Yes it is a similar product.
how does this compare to a standard or 2k high build primer?
I used slick sand polyester primer and Y2K , but the slick sand, set up in the gun !! Painting was over that night, go clean the gun....so far two coats Y2k on the vanagon and the second coat made a big difference. Paint next week!
Good question, the spray filler will give you 2-3x the film build of a regular 2K primer and it sands just as well. It has good bare metal adhesion but we would still recommend spraying over an epoxy for corrosion resistance and better adhesion. It’s a great product for your first round of blocking out panels and getting everything as straight as possible before applying a high build primer, to do more precise blocking and wet sanding.
Hope that helps! Let us know if you have any more questions.
@@autopaintplusid4197 you can spray base over this filler?
No we would not recommend putting base over it. It’s porous, like all body fillers, and you won’t get good adhesion. You need a good 2K primer over top before you put your color on.
@@DanTheManIOM " Evercoat's Slick Sand and Featherfill primer" are outdated polyester primers FTMP, and UNLESS you clean your gun after EVERY quart sprayed? (NO matter what temperature) ARE nightmares to work with. Nowadays, and thankfully, they offer 4 to 1 mix ratios (like Evercoat's SUPER BUILD) that are waaay more user and paint gun FRIENDLY. Plus, you can actually mix small amounts (for spot priming) unlike the old Featherfill etc taking ALL THE GUESS WORK COMPLETELY OUT of the mixing equation....(Having it cure right in your paint gun OR, having it sprayed on your product and it NEVER cures out! 🤬) Lol... Ohhh yeah. Waaay better products out there THESE daze for the restoration guy. 😏👍
I don't know if this is a joke but I can feel all those high and low spots from here. That body work is all wrong.
That’s exactly why we used the spray filler. Like a glazing putty, it’s made to help level your body work so you can block it out. Especially for someone who isn’t the greatest body man or has a bad panel to work out. But thanks for your incredible insight 👍🏻
I had a 72 Nova from 82 to this year I had to Sell it after all those years. It was from north Carolina and Rock Solid. I like this product but I Disliked the way they RUINED the Rear Quarters on that Nova!!!
Rector's body shop ?
So it's just like old-school clay primer
I've heard horror stories about spray-on body filler
It’s been around for a long time. In the past the materials and chemistry weren’t nearly as good as what they are today. So you’re right, it had a fair amount of issues in the past but the modern product is much better.
👍
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I dunno maybe I’m seeing something different then you but that looks like a grey orange.
This looks like Hi-build primer
Not quite. We’ve explained the difference in a couple other comments if you want to read them. We also have a second video coming soon that will explain the difference.
If you work at a bodyshop they won't let you get away with doing poor body work the preppers will send it right back to you it's not there job to fix poor bodywork.
So basicly its a filler primer.
I just use high build primer.
A good high build primer is always a great way to go! We’re just giving people more options to improve their body work. The Spray filler provides a lot better film build and an easier surface to sand.
Car Craft Garage 😐 Kewl..... THAT'S "WHAT THEY ARE USING" ....."HIGH BUILD PRIMER" as well....😏
Well.. I'd definitely only consider using this over 2k primer. I dont think spraying on bare metal is a good idea. Mainly because of the finer grade of sanding .If moisture gets under it you might have problems down the road a few years
This product isn’t meant to replace your primer. It is made to be used only on repair areas, just like when using glazing putty. In order to achieve the best corrosion resistance and bare metal adhesion, we would recommend using an epoxy primer first.
@@carcraftgarage5430 Well, when the WHOLE panel is skimmed over (as here) and there's only minimal spots of bare metal? A guy CAN- Shoot epoxy 1st on the panel THEN shoot the poly, OR? Shoot the poly, THEN shoot the epoxy OVER that. I'd recommend epoxy 1st OR- Epoxying the bare metal 1st BEFORE any filler is swiped on (AFTER the epoxy HAS cured and been 180 scuff sanded). But like in THIS NOVA deal? I highly "doubt" they are going for the World of Wheels car show 1st in show awards... 😏
That's some nice shit