This technique is already proving to be a game changer for me! I've never been one to hate sanding but it's definitely my least favorite process when making a display piece and this just knocks it down so much without being super expensive. As it was, I just had to buy acetone since I already had the airbrush and compressor, a large siphon jar, and bondo putty. I do a light sanding, a layer of rustoleum, this method for at most 3 layers so far, and finish it with another layer of rustoleum. Simple, cheap, and fast since I'm using only 2 coats of the rustoleum which I already get a good deal on. I've had a few prints collecting dust because I didn't want to go outside and get them ready for painting but this process makes me excited to go out and do it again because it's so easy. Thanks so much for sharing!!
I’m not a fan of rustoleum however this process allows the filler primer to do it job, which is fill in pin holes,hairline cracks & sanding marks. I will give rustoleum credit on its filling abilities I just hate how long you have to wait to sand it & how it sands. However, when you’re using it in the final leg i 100% agree & see how that combo would work! Thanks so much for sharing your experience and letting others know your technique!
I never used it in an airbrush because I can't hold one due to issues with my hands, but I have been using acetone-thinned glazing putty (brushed on) to fill seams and smooth out plastic models for decades. I was taught the method in the early 90s by a cranky old modeler named Dave Merriman, probably most famous for pushing the RC Sub envelope, doing several models for Crimson Tide, Hunt for Red October and The Abyss among others
It’s a great method too, I’ve highlighted it on several methods. I am dropping another video with a method you will like, be sure to check it out & let me know what you think!
Use a polyester putty, liquitex or anything other than wood filler. Wood filler shrinks, is waterbased, can create adhesion issues & not great for thermo plastics
DUDE!!!. You killed it with this method. My one and only go to from now on.Thank you for sharing this. New sub here for sure and look forward to more great and inspiring videos.
@@Darkwingdad I actually tried it today. I didn't use an airbrush because I didn't feel like dealing with cleaning plus I want to get a cheap one to use specifically for this. I used a brush on a Bruce Lee figure I'm doing and it worked flawlessly. I didn't even have to use filler primer and the figure came out perfect and I'm painting it tonight. Thanks again, your videos are very informative.
Check your local ace hardware if you have them. Luckily here in FL there is a 3m distributor 35 minutes from me. If you need help locating one drop me a line
@@Darkwingdad I will check it out, sadly we don't have all of the products in our Ace hardware rest ouelem seems to be the most used over here and I'm not living in the US.
This technique blew up my mind! I used to spend 14€ on Putty spray cans as the result is near perfect but honestly it comes at a huge cost as cans goes so fast... Than I discovered your video and in fairness this it a game changer!!! I have to confess that I haven't tried to spray it because I had that question for you: How do you clean the airbrush after? Thanks again for all your videos 👌
Master has an airbrush with a 0.5mm and 0.8mm needle that is their model G77 trigger model that is gravity fed with two needles and three different sized interchangeable cups. The 0.8mm needle has a spray tip for wide angled sprays.
Gee, after watching your primer filler spray can comparisons video and seaching for the Bondo brand in my area and online, this seems the way to go! But I'll need a spray paint setup The spray gun you recommended in the video description on Amazon is less than 20 bucks. I can do that, I was expecting something like 200 lol. Mr. DwD, I can tell you how grateful I am that you are sharing your knowledge and skills for me, foe all of us. Thank you, and God bless you and your awesome family.
I really am appreciative of viewers such as yourself & comments like these. I know my videos aren’t the shortest, I may not be doing tik Toks or whatever trendy thing is going on….that’s not the reason for my channel. It’s to help & educate, so thank you for the reassurance :)
@@Darkwingdad Your videos may be long, that would be an issue if there was dead space in the videos, repeating, or boring parts but every second is utilized with awesome information. BTW, is there any place online I can buy the Bondo filler? I can't find it locally. And how the hell do you answer all the replies to your videos and still make'em?
@@Darkwingdad North West Alabama. I believe I've been to every hardware,automotive, and body shop looking for the Bondo filler. I can't find it on Amazon either. I'm attempting to make some molding plugs for some small model airplanes I'm trying to reproduce using fiberglass. I've been using rustoleum filler primer and really disgusted with the dry times and sandpaper clogs. I bought some of that bondo glazing spot Putty you've mentioned and used in your videos that I've never used before to get a feel for it before buying my air brush kit to try your spot Putty and acetone filler trick. Watching you do it seems to be a game changer.
Hows the finish just with the Bondo filer ?? Can U just leave it with a few coats and Paint over it , or is the Bondo Filer to rough once it drys for you just to paint over with out Sanding?
The bondo putty method with acetone will always be faster, raptor is more convenient as far as set up & clean up goes & obviously spraying the bondo putty you’ll need a higher start up cost point. Both work great just depends on your set up & budget.
Just black sandable primer, if you get it on your skin just wash with soap, it’s not going to burn or kill you but definitely avoid your eyes, ingesting & cuts. Any of those happen it could definitely be a problem
That Bondo filler primer is killer! I need to run to my local Ace and finally get some. Not sure I'll try the airbrush method but I think that Bondo filler in conjunction of putting on the spot putty thinned out with a brush on the rough areas or by hand would be perfect for now. Thank you sir for the detailed video and your hard work in showing all the comparisons, it's very much appreciated!
100% if your not comfortable with spraying I get it. This video was to show a few things but show that both the spray putty & aerosols are the same with chemicals. I’ve used spot putty for years and personally love spraying it but the bondo filler primer is no joke!
@@Darkwingdad Oh I'm not afraid to spray it 😄 maybe just too lazy to do the set up haha but I could tell it works wonders man and I might give it a shot In the near future...you know how it is when you get set in your ways. I'm actually the worst with not wearing my PPE when using a lot of this stuff. When I forget to wear my gloves when painting I'll use a shop towel I doused with some lacquer thinner to clean my hands haha. I appreciate the PPE reminders haha because I need them! You go above and beyond in your videos. Thank you again.
@@ChrisBoshProps lol anyone who works in a shop has had there hands in thinner or spirits more than 30 dozen times to clean em lol I appreciate the feedback & support my friend thank you for the follow up let me know if you can’t get bondo primer I might be able to pull a few strings based on your location
Yeah I have mixed the Bondo Glazing putty and lacquer thinner and applied with a brush for over 10 years. Works great over the first thin layer of primer because its lacquer melts into and fuses with the paint. Not sure if I’d spray through a ]n airbrush. Seems like a lot of clean up. I brush on a layer, wait till it drys and add another layer, etc. I only sand once at the end.
@@Darkwingdad in using a filler sandable primer on a Omega red ranger helmet and I still see prints lines. So sanding that with a 220 or 330 grits will get rid of all that?
@@wilatheroicstudios2466 are you using putty? It’s going to take a lot of time, effort & materials if you’re only using filler primer. Definitely not the right approach, get some glazing putty I have videos on using it
@@wilatheroicstudios2466 might just need to sand it more depending on your layer height and defects. Get a good filler primer like duplicolor or bondo that will help a ton
0.8 mm nozzle would be more than enough for an airbrush with a compressor I prime with one every single day and as long as the air is up and the hammer is twisted far enough back it will release a lot of paint bud 👍
4 to 5 cans for a helmet?! There is no way anyone should be using that much filler primer on one helmet. The primer alone would be twice the weight of the helmet.
Well sadly there are people who use only filler primer and think it’s the right way to do it. Ive literally seen posts where people use 3-4 cans. Based on how much I used for half a face plate. Yea realistically it would have been atleast 3. If you have tight areas that you can’t get exactly in, yes your just doing layer after layer after layer. Beyond that though the wasted time with coats, waiting is far far more than using putty and filler. Of course this was a demo, 4/5 cans over exaggerating? Maybe a tad but I still stand behind my statement, the bondo filler primer gave good results but it was about 35% full when done, the krylon around the same. So based on that to do a whole helmet of course with better sanding prep between 3-4 cans. Maybe my next video? Doing a whole helmet comparison
@@vicman440 without the use of putty I can definitely see why people use so much or continue to load it on. That or they over sand & deplete the model or are too lazy to sand sand sand lol I am doing a comparison video soon to show this
I’m definitely new to this, so seeing wether primer or putty is either cheaper or better is definitely something up in the air for me, but I notice that filler lays out more flat and nicer when I do putty so benefits me I use duplicolor primer that Frankly Built suggest and imma be honest, 1 can can make 2 helmet or 1 1/2. Taking in consideration I sanded it good enough already on my base and improved it in between coats plus doing 3-4 layers to get it the way I want it, but I could’ve stopped at 2. It’s mainly time and effort you put into it really vs using the product to do the work for you is what I’m getting at. Either that or I’m tripping. This is why this hobby and many others are amazing, so many ways to tackle it Duplicolor is phenomenal and looks quite amazing as itself oddly. $20 per can too, but y’know 🤷♂️ There maybe other cheaper and better methods, but this method is good enough for me. And it ain’t bad to spice things up for a change, everything is different for something!
Do you wash the prints between each sanding and spray? Or even between each grit? I've seen recommendations to do this and it would add some time here as well
If anything you’d want to use a tac cloth to remove dust or simply wipe down with a micro fiber and isopropyl alcohol. You definitely should avoid using water on porous un cured primer. That will slow down gasing & cure times plus create adhesion issues when applying paint
I’m definitely going to do the Bondo putty/acetone through the airbrush method. Do you think it’s possible to make a whole batch of this stuff ahead of time? What I mean is empty a whole tube of the putty and mix it with the acetone into a container, mix it all together and put a cap on it for later use?
You can do it in smaller amounts. The fact is the acetone in liquid form will continue to eat away at the putty abs eventually dissolve it completely. So for a day or 2 project yes. Anything else long term no. This is where you can experiment & see how bad or how long it can last. Without exposure to 02 the acetone won’t evaporate and innevitably deplete the putty on a long term scale.
@@Darkwingdad That is not exactly accurate. It would be better to say *I suspect that* the acetone in liquid form will continue to eat away at the putty.... rather than us the word *fact* Because it won't. Acetone is one of the base solvents in spot putty. All you are doing is diluting the putty by adding more acetone to thin it to a sprayable form and, when that excess acetone evaporates along with the other solvents, the solids (mostly talc) will still be left behind. Very much like adding water to acrylic paints so they airbrush better - you can thin out a whole bottle if you want and store it that way; it does not matter.
@@BaddDukk perhaps in an open container? Allowing the acetone to aerate. I base this in the fact I’ve seen acetone completely deteriorate plastics they’ve been stored in. Only question I have is have you tried this to prove it? Yes there is acetone in the putty currently but when your adding more to it how unstable will it make the other component? We than get into chemistry & the stabilization of set molecules & polymers within the chain. I just wouldn’t think the putty would hood up that well long term in a vat of acetone. But hey maybe I’m wrong 🤔
LOL junkies been huffing paint before you & me were crawling & they are still kickin haha nice to see you drop by bro, looking forward to a build off. Plenty of love & PUTTY to go around haha
Great video. Unfortunately being in the UK we don't get bondo, I'll try our closest equivalent though. Were you still planning on doing a video showing the cleaning process of the airbrush after this?
I discovered the equivalent by accident in the parts for cars shop and it's amazing: 4CR Combi Stopper (2625) As I'm based in Ireland you won't find any difficulty finding this ;) @Darkwingdad, 4CR has a huge range of products that can be used for props like the 4CR 2500 Spray Filler. I didn't try it yet but this product looks promising, what do you think?
Love your vids! Question, in this video th-cam.com/video/XX66y7L6fXI/w-d-xo.html you demonstrate your sanding process with the spot putty + acetone mixture followed by filler primer and progressive sanding and recoating with filler primer. Since discovering the putty + acetone spray method, do you still use the filler primer after the putty spray? Or do you go straight from the putty spray to the final primer sealer? Thanks!!
Thanks for the love Steve! So honestly with this method you can do 1 coat & sanding of the putty & 1 coat of filler primer & you’ll be done! The key is don’t use too low of a grit of sand paper 220/320 is ideal. The other option is 1 coat putty-sand with 220. Recoat putty sand with 400 & than do your primer sealer. Either option is great it’s really just preference & prep!
Wood filler is terrible, you’ll have paint leaching & adhesion issues. FYI the same ingredients are in filler primer as the putty mix, so if you consider the putty mix not safe niether is 99% of all aerosols
@@Darkwingdad Interesting. The Bondo glazing putty is my next option as I don't want to buy the stuff to spray it. That has to be better than wood filler right?
@@Tony-nl6pf you don’t NEED to spray it, it’s faster yes & has good build ability but you can apply it by hand or thin it with acetone and brush it on which is safer
This technique is already proving to be a game changer for me! I've never been one to hate sanding but it's definitely my least favorite process when making a display piece and this just knocks it down so much without being super expensive. As it was, I just had to buy acetone since I already had the airbrush and compressor, a large siphon jar, and bondo putty. I do a light sanding, a layer of rustoleum, this method for at most 3 layers so far, and finish it with another layer of rustoleum. Simple, cheap, and fast since I'm using only 2 coats of the rustoleum which I already get a good deal on.
I've had a few prints collecting dust because I didn't want to go outside and get them ready for painting but this process makes me excited to go out and do it again because it's so easy. Thanks so much for sharing!!
I’m not a fan of rustoleum however this process allows the filler primer to do it job, which is fill in pin holes,hairline cracks & sanding marks. I will give rustoleum credit on its filling abilities I just hate how long you have to wait to sand it & how it sands. However, when you’re using it in the final leg i 100% agree & see how that combo would work! Thanks so much for sharing your experience and letting others know your technique!
Great video! You got me all revved up to go out and get a bottle.... only to find out that it's been discontinued :(
Yea it was a kick in the pants when I found out bondo primer was done :(
Are there any alternatives?
@@thebrokeskill upol filler primer is awesome. I have a video up on it
I never used it in an airbrush because I can't hold one due to issues with my hands, but I have been using acetone-thinned glazing putty (brushed on) to fill seams and smooth out plastic models for decades. I was taught the method in the early 90s by a cranky old modeler named Dave Merriman, probably most famous for pushing the RC Sub envelope, doing several models for Crimson Tide, Hunt for Red October and The Abyss among others
It’s a great method too, I’ve highlighted it on several methods. I am dropping another video with a method you will like, be sure to check it out & let me know what you think!
Bondo is pretty expensive here but i did use woodfiller and sprayman filler primer and it works pretty well too
Use a polyester putty, liquitex or anything other than wood filler. Wood filler shrinks, is waterbased, can create adhesion issues & not great for thermo plastics
Will be looking forward to the gear part of this. When you do that be sure to include clean up methods and nozzle maintenance in the video.
DUDE!!!. You killed it with this method. My one and only go to from now on.Thank you for sharing this. New sub here for sure and look forward to more great and inspiring videos.
Greatly appreciate the kind words & im glad the videos are helping, much more on the way!
@@Darkwingdad I actually tried it today. I didn't use an airbrush because I didn't feel like dealing with cleaning plus I want to get a cheap one to use specifically for this. I used a brush on a Bruce Lee figure I'm doing and it worked flawlessly. I didn't even have to use filler primer and the figure came out perfect and I'm painting it tonight. Thanks again, your videos are very informative.
I really need to find the bondo filler. great demonstration.
Check your local ace hardware if you have them. Luckily here in FL there is a 3m distributor 35 minutes from me. If you need help locating one drop me a line
@@Darkwingdad I will check it out, sadly we don't have all of the products in our Ace hardware rest ouelem seems to be the most used over here and I'm not living in the US.
This technique blew up my mind!
I used to spend 14€ on Putty spray cans as the result is near perfect but honestly it comes at a huge cost as cans goes so fast...
Than I discovered your video and in fairness this it a game changer!!!
I have to confess that I haven't tried to spray it because I had that question for you: How do you clean the airbrush after?
Thanks again for all your videos 👌
Master has an airbrush with a 0.5mm and 0.8mm needle that is their model G77 trigger model that is gravity fed with two needles and three different sized interchangeable cups. The 0.8mm needle has a spray tip for wide angled sprays.
Would love to see a video of cleaning the airbrush after you finish the job.
I’ll do one for ya
Gee, after watching your primer filler spray can comparisons video and seaching for the Bondo brand in my area and online, this seems the way to go!
But I'll need a spray paint setup The spray gun you recommended in the video description on Amazon is less than 20 bucks. I can do that, I was expecting something like 200 lol.
Mr. DwD, I can tell you how grateful I am that you are sharing your knowledge and skills for me, foe all of us.
Thank you, and God bless you and your awesome family.
I really am appreciative of viewers such as yourself & comments like these.
I know my videos aren’t the shortest, I may not be doing tik Toks or whatever trendy thing is going on….that’s not the reason for my channel. It’s to help & educate, so thank you for the reassurance :)
@@Darkwingdad Your videos may be long, that would be an issue if there was dead space in the videos, repeating, or boring parts but every second is utilized with awesome information. BTW, is there any place online I can buy the Bondo filler? I can't find it locally. And how the hell do you answer all the replies to your videos and still make'em?
@@RexR256 lol I am very vested in the channel, that’s a benefit of being a subscriber lol where are you located exactly? United States?
@@Darkwingdad North West Alabama. I believe I've been to every hardware,automotive, and body shop looking for the Bondo filler. I can't find it on Amazon either. I'm attempting to make some molding plugs for some small model airplanes I'm trying to reproduce using fiberglass. I've been using rustoleum filler primer and really disgusted with the dry times and sandpaper clogs. I bought some of that bondo glazing spot Putty you've mentioned and used in your videos that I've never used before to get a feel for it before buying my air brush kit to try your spot Putty and acetone filler trick. Watching you do it seems to be a game changer.
@@RexR256 I live in NWFL, I can ship you some if you’d like. Are you near Huntsville?
Thanks for the video, I know how valuable free time can be with kidos and pets.
They are only kids for so long :(
Hows the finish just with the Bondo filer ?? Can U just leave it with a few coats and Paint over it , or is the Bondo Filer to rough once it drys for you just to paint over with out Sanding?
Great product, it’s by far the best filler primer out there. You can use it solo but you’ll get much faster & better results with a putty used first
How would you compare the Bondo airbrush vs the Raptor 1k? Your Raptor 1k video saved my ass with rushing Halloween 3d Print orders!
The bondo putty method with acetone will always be faster, raptor is more convenient as far as set up & clean up goes & obviously spraying the bondo putty you’ll need a higher start up cost point. Both work great just depends on your set up & budget.
What is the black spray at 6:15, black primer?
And what do you do if you get the putty/acetone mixture on your skin? Just soap and water?
Just black sandable primer, if you get it on your skin just wash with soap, it’s not going to burn or kill you but definitely avoid your eyes, ingesting & cuts. Any of those happen it could definitely be a problem
@@Darkwingdad Thanks for the quick reply!
That Bondo filler primer is killer! I need to run to my local Ace and finally get some. Not sure I'll try the airbrush method but I think that Bondo filler in conjunction of putting on the spot putty thinned out with a brush on the rough areas or by hand would be perfect for now. Thank you sir for the detailed video and your hard work in showing all the comparisons, it's very much appreciated!
100% if your not comfortable with spraying I get it. This video was to show a few things but show that both the spray putty & aerosols are the same with chemicals. I’ve used spot putty for years and personally love spraying it but the bondo filler primer is no joke!
@@Darkwingdad Oh I'm not afraid to spray it 😄 maybe just too lazy to do the set up haha but I could tell it works wonders man and I might give it a shot In the near future...you know how it is when you get set in your ways. I'm actually the worst with not wearing my PPE when using a lot of this stuff. When I forget to wear my gloves when painting I'll use a shop towel I doused with some lacquer thinner to clean my hands haha. I appreciate the PPE reminders haha because I need them! You go above and beyond in your videos. Thank you again.
@@ChrisBoshProps lol anyone who works in a shop has had there hands in thinner or spirits more than 30 dozen times to clean em lol I appreciate the feedback & support my friend thank you for the follow up let me know if you can’t get bondo primer I might be able to pull a few strings based on your location
@@Darkwingdad No problem you keep up the great work your doing!
Yeah I have mixed the Bondo Glazing putty and lacquer thinner and applied with a brush for over 10 years. Works great over the first thin layer of primer because its lacquer melts into and fuses with the paint. Not sure if I’d spray through a ]n airbrush. Seems like a lot of clean up. I brush on a layer, wait till it drys and add another layer, etc. I only sand once at the end.
so with sandable primer it you can still knock down layer lines? I though that would just remove the primer and make the PLA lines show even more
Sandable primer just sands easier, it has no filling ability. What’s shown here is filler primer
@@Darkwingdad in using a filler sandable primer on a Omega red ranger helmet and I still see prints lines. So sanding that with a 220 or 330 grits will get rid of all that?
@@wilatheroicstudios2466 are you using putty? It’s going to take a lot of time, effort & materials if you’re only using filler primer. Definitely not the right approach, get some glazing putty I have videos on using it
@@Darkwingdad I'm using the glazing spot putty and some of the filler primer
@@wilatheroicstudios2466 might just need to sand it more depending on your layer height and defects. Get a good filler primer like duplicolor or bondo that will help a ton
water base paints does not have paint thinners btw that why the epa have made autobodys move to water base
Correct water is the thinner but they still contain acrylic & polyurethane additives & solidfying solvents that require ppe
How about durability? If you were finishing a BB-8 would you use this technique (putty) on something that rolls on the ground?
Honestly filler primers,puttys,they’ll all likely get gouged. You would want an epoxy or fiberglass resin to use for that.
Could I use this method but the brush on approach with the Bondo plastic metal?
You could, you’d have to mess with the dilution ratio but if you got it right you could 100% do it. Love plastic metal so that’s a great idea!
0.8 mm nozzle would be more than enough for an airbrush with a compressor I prime with one every single day and as long as the air is up and the hammer is twisted far enough back it will release a lot of paint bud 👍
Yes, in the first video I did mentioned I used a .8, 1.0mm also works awesome
4 to 5 cans for a helmet?! There is no way anyone should be using that much filler primer on one helmet. The primer alone would be twice the weight of the helmet.
Well sadly there are people who use only filler primer and think it’s the right way to do it. Ive literally seen posts where people use 3-4 cans. Based on how much I used for half a face plate. Yea realistically it would have been atleast 3. If you have tight areas that you can’t get exactly in, yes your just doing layer after layer after layer. Beyond that though the wasted time with coats, waiting is far far more than using putty and filler. Of course this was a demo, 4/5 cans over exaggerating? Maybe a tad but I still stand behind my statement, the bondo filler primer gave good results but it was about 35% full when done, the krylon around the same. So based on that to do a whole helmet of course with better sanding prep between 3-4 cans. Maybe my next video? Doing a whole helmet comparison
@@Darkwingdad 3 cans a helmet?? Jeeze that's way too many lol I only use 1 and can get an amazing result
@@vicman440 without the use of putty I can definitely see why people use so much or continue to load it on. That or they over sand & deplete the model or are too lazy to sand sand sand lol I am doing a comparison video soon to show this
I’m definitely new to this, so seeing wether primer or putty is either cheaper or better is definitely something up in the air for me, but I notice that filler lays out more flat and nicer when I do putty so benefits me
I use duplicolor primer that Frankly Built suggest and imma be honest, 1 can can make 2 helmet or 1 1/2. Taking in consideration I sanded it good enough already on my base and improved it in between coats plus doing 3-4 layers to get it the way I want it, but I could’ve stopped at 2. It’s mainly time and effort you put into it really vs using the product to do the work for you is what I’m getting at. Either that or I’m tripping. This is why this hobby and many others are amazing, so many ways to tackle it
Duplicolor is phenomenal and looks quite amazing as itself oddly. $20 per can too, but y’know 🤷♂️
There maybe other cheaper and better methods, but this method is good enough for me. And it ain’t bad to spice things up for a change, everything is different for something!
Do you wash the prints between each sanding and spray? Or even between each grit? I've seen recommendations to do this and it would add some time here as well
If anything you’d want to use a tac cloth to remove dust or simply wipe down with a micro fiber and isopropyl alcohol. You definitely should avoid using water on porous un cured primer. That will slow down gasing & cure times plus create adhesion issues when applying paint
@@Darkwingdad that makes a lot sense, thank you!
@@brandonborden945 anytime!
Does one need to prime before using bondo
No you prime after
Thanks again for this awesome video
I appreciate the feedback & view!
I’m definitely going to do the Bondo putty/acetone through the airbrush method. Do you think it’s possible to make a whole batch of this stuff ahead of time? What I mean is empty a whole tube of the putty and mix it with the acetone into a container, mix it all together and put a cap on it for later use?
You can do it in smaller amounts. The fact is the acetone in liquid form will continue to eat away at the putty abs eventually dissolve it completely. So for a day or 2 project yes. Anything else long term no. This is where you can experiment & see how bad or how long it can last. Without exposure to 02 the acetone won’t evaporate and innevitably deplete the putty on a long term scale.
@@Darkwingdad That is not exactly accurate. It would be better to say *I suspect that* the acetone in liquid form will continue to eat away at the putty.... rather than us the word *fact*
Because it won't.
Acetone is one of the base solvents in spot putty. All you are doing is diluting the putty by adding more acetone to thin it to a sprayable form and, when that excess acetone evaporates along with the other solvents, the solids (mostly talc) will still be left behind. Very much like adding water to acrylic paints so they airbrush better - you can thin out a whole bottle if you want and store it that way; it does not matter.
@@BaddDukk perhaps in an open container? Allowing the acetone to aerate. I base this in the fact I’ve seen acetone completely deteriorate plastics they’ve been stored in. Only question I have is have you tried this to prove it? Yes there is acetone in the putty currently but when your adding more to it how unstable will it make the other component? We than get into chemistry & the stabilization of set molecules & polymers within the chain. I just wouldn’t think the putty would hood up that well long term in a vat of acetone. But hey maybe I’m wrong 🤔
Awesome video!
I heard if you breath in acetone you'll meet god ;)
Great work bro!
LOL junkies been huffing paint before you & me were crawling & they are still kickin haha nice to see you drop by bro, looking forward to a build off. Plenty of love & PUTTY to go around haha
@@Darkwingdad yes indeed. I’ve got some putty ready!
@@offearth3d sure you don’t wanna share it for those in need? 😂
Great video. Unfortunately being in the UK we don't get bondo, I'll try our closest equivalent though. Were you still planning on doing a video showing the cleaning process of the airbrush after this?
Yes I can if you need one!
@@Darkwingdad please do
I discovered the equivalent by accident in the parts for cars shop and it's amazing: 4CR Combi Stopper (2625)
As I'm based in Ireland you won't find any difficulty finding this ;)
@Darkwingdad, 4CR has a huge range of products that can be used for props like the 4CR 2500 Spray Filler. I didn't try it yet but this product looks promising, what do you think?
@@damienmoreau3859 I’ll have to look into it & see if I can get my hands on it
What mixing cups you recommend for mixing with acetone? Link would be helpful
amzn.to/3Rg89OU this are great and will help you develop an exact measurement dilution of acetone to putty
@@Darkwingdad Awesome!!! Thanks....Last night I tested with regular "red" cups.....LOL acetone loved eating it.
@@virimpact lol solo cups won’t last long lol!!
Love the shirt
Love your vids! Question, in this video th-cam.com/video/XX66y7L6fXI/w-d-xo.html you demonstrate your sanding process with the spot putty + acetone mixture followed by filler primer and progressive sanding and recoating with filler primer. Since discovering the putty + acetone spray method, do you still use the filler primer after the putty spray? Or do you go straight from the putty spray to the final primer sealer? Thanks!!
Thanks for the love Steve!
So honestly with this method you can do 1 coat & sanding of the putty & 1 coat of filler primer & you’ll be done! The key is don’t use too low of a grit of sand paper 220/320 is ideal.
The other option is 1 coat putty-sand with 220. Recoat putty sand with 400 & than do your primer sealer. Either option is great it’s really just preference & prep!
@@Darkwingdad Awesome thank you so much! Truly, I don't think anybody goes into the level of detail you do on these topics. Very helpful!!
I'd rather use wood filler for defects then Bondo Filler Spray for the rest. No need to use that putty. Expensive, not as safe.
Wood filler is terrible, you’ll have paint leaching & adhesion issues. FYI the same ingredients are in filler primer as the putty mix, so if you consider the putty mix not safe niether is 99% of all aerosols
@@Darkwingdad Interesting. The Bondo glazing putty is my next option as I don't want to buy the stuff to spray it. That has to be better than wood filler right?
@@Tony-nl6pf you don’t NEED to spray it, it’s faster yes & has good build ability but you can apply it by hand or thin it with acetone and brush it on which is safer