Steve just put a socket on the ball joint nut and rattle it off, the "Castle" nut will shear the split pin off cleanly and easily. 42yrs swinging wrenches teaches you a few tricks.. Hi from AU.
Lots of folks talking about running the nut off the ball joint to sheer the cotter pin ... in my world, thats a 50/50 shot .. half the time the shaft breaks free and starts spinning with the nut, then the torches come out anyways. I've learned to start with torches whenever possible for that job.
Steve, I'm an old fart, but I remember when my late dad taught me how to pack wheel bearings. Definitely by hand. Alas, 50 years ago we didn't have the gloves. But we had "Lava" soap that actually got rid of the grease on our hands. Thanks again (I always look forward to your Saturday updates) and stay safe and well.
I remember using lava soap. I seem to remember it smelled like sassafras. If we didn’t have lava we’d use comet cleanser. Course that didn’t smell nearly as good as lava.
@@weldchip Lava Soap can form its own version of barrier cream. I suspect that's how the latter product arose. We'd make a very thick lather of Lava soap and just keep rubbing it in until dry.
I just lost my quaker parrot she was about the same size as your bird she brought joy to me every day I really miss her it's so amazing how a small creature of God can grow on you also I really enjoy all of your videos
On the one hand, these trucks were pretty much made to be disposable. On the other hand, I think the fact that it's so very difficult to get a basic, no frills truck these days has breathed new life into these old ones. I can certainly see the appeal of them. Personally, the only extra I want is a stereo. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think it's even possible to buy a new one without power windows and locks anymore.
Another great thought out video. Steve you are one talented man... Thank you for sharing with those of us that aren't as ambitious as you. NEVER stop being Steve the man with the knowhow.
Great job on the axle Steve. So many times I've changed ball joints, bearings and u-joints laying on my back in the back yard. I learned to pack bearings in my palm the same way you did. Perfect coverage. Talk soon my friend.
Dad had a really huge old vice he never did bolt down so he could move it to where it was needed. We put it down on the floor to do u-joints, worked great. It was big enough the hammering didn't hurt it. He had, what looks like the exact same BFH. Sure brought back memories.
U-joint cap pins: what I do is to use my finger to add more grease to the cap and ensuring the pins are lined up along the edge. Helps keep them in place. Factory uses minimal amount of grease.
It's funny at work I replace many U joints I only replace one at a time because my employer doesn't want to spend the money, more often then not I end up replacing the new joint again just because it's the one that is in a bad spot or something
Seems when I watch I pick up a neat trick! Bolts in drill cleaning on wire wheel! Will do this next time I clean my bolts. Just wanted to say I have gone back and watched every vid on the shop build. You do excellent work. Thanks for Sharing!
Happy Saturday Mornin Steve and Family! Enjoying my Grits watching you and learning something new always. Thanks for sharing and spreading the knowledge, God Bless!
I bought the same snap ring pliers after you showed yours, and they are great. When I was a young child in the '50s they told us the inch worms were measuring us for our casket. A very good rebuild demo video. I have a neighbor who could benefit from watching this. Stay safe and tell Ms Elizabeth we said Hi!
Good job Steve , you’re making a lot of progress on the truck.. great to see the young lad giving you a hand , sure to be something he’ll look back on as a cherished memory as he gets older.. You are a great role model, well done mate 👍👍
i remember the old song "Inchworm, inchworm, measuring the marigolds" from way back, - Bing Crosby? But I've never actually seen one. Until now! Thanks Steve, All The Best from Somerset UK.
I've always enjoyed working on metalworking machines... not so much with roadgoing machines, other than out of necessity and sometimes desperation. But these truck overhaul videos are making me want to find an old Ford highboy and tinker it into a decent grocery getter... great stuff, thanks!
As for packers I grew up with hand packing and the tub style hand packer. The K-D 2775 hand bearing packer looks a lot like it, but was blue and labeled as a different brand. If someone was going to do 1 or 2 bearings, then I wouldn't bother, but after a dozen it's pretty nice to have. Looks like Lisle also makes a nice one.
From the eyes of a drive line specialist you did a great job on on the rebuild .. a little bit different than what I would do but the job is done and it will give you service for many years to come
My favorite Chevy Truck commercial was an older non-model women talking to the camera, she said "Don't You Buy No Ugly Truck!". They need to make more of those "Salt Of the Earth" type commercials.
As always a great video. Good to see you using Kroil and in the proper amount. So many folks flood their parts thus wasting a valuable resource. Remember to give it time to soak in/work and you will be pleasantly surprised how well it works.
Most common mistake when using something is not understanding how it works and then saying it is not working as good as your other method...read instructions and learn...if your doing it correctly and your still not satisfied then at least you tried to use it ( properly ).... Hand packing grease works.... Those grease packers work too.... You can do it anyway you prefer but learn proper useage when trying new tools...
Unless your Hazard Fraught ball joint press is better than mine, don't count on that "C-clamp" press part to remove really stuck ball joints. Mine was not really forged or it was made out of pewter, because mine bent badly.
If the split pin is that rotted in I normally find that a good impact gun will make short work of it with much less mess than a torch, the pin is only there to stop the castle nut turning it is very strong even when new.
Brilliantly explained. Thanks for showing us. Regarding springen and sprungen lost parts, I now know that my desk doesn't have enough stuff on it. Will do better. Thanks for that and the family planning tip too. Only the tip tho'
If I'm replacing the ball joints, I just run the impact on the nut and leave the cotton pin in it's place. Just cut cotton pin flush with the nut, if it's so rusted that you wont get it out it wont to any harm.
You have to watch your ball joints go in straight and adjust your ball joint tool to straighten it as it goes... Like how you showed your wife on the seal install...
All you have to do to get that castle nut off is break the cotter pin off as much as you can and hit it with an impact gun. It’ll shear it right off. Using the torch seems like a ton of work/mess. Regarding melting that one down
Awesome job buddy!! I’ve really enjoyed watching your videos!! I am also very picky when I rebuild stuff on my trucks also!! About 10 years ago I rebuilt a Dana 60 front axle and a gm 14 bolt rear axle and I did absolutely everything in them!! New ring and pinion, new bearings, new seals, and new brakes and the same thing on the rear axel but changed from drum brakes to disc brakes and also was able to put the ARB air lockers in both axels also!! For the front axel I ended up making a axel housing spreader to make installing and set up a little easier!!! After I did the rebuild on it I took it to a shop just to have them double check to make sure that I had set up everything correctly so I didn’t end up toasting any bearings or anything and being out a bunch of money!!! I took the spreader that I made with me and they asked me what the heck is that for?? I told them it was to help spread the housing so that I was able to install the carrier easier!! They then ask if I would sell it to them because they didn’t have anything like it!! I kinda thought that was funny!! I asked them how they installed the carriers and they said they usually take the hole axels out of the vehicles and put the housing in a shop press and put just a little pressure on the housing enough to spread it open just a little!! I’d definitely be afraid of cracking a housing and then have to try and find another axel for the customer!! They said by using the one that I made would save them at least 4 hours of just disassembly and putting the axel back in plus any parts that might get ruined during disassembly!! They said that by using the tool that I had made would save them at least 300.00 to 400.00$ in time and possibly parts!!! It did take me about a day to make but it definitely makes it a breeze setting up Dana 60 front axels very easily and much faster also!! After they had checked it out they said I couldn’t have done any better!! I was happy with all the work I had done to it!!
10 bolt was the weak sister to the Dana 44. i hope the inner axle seals don't present a problem later. I like all your stuff Steve, just some observations from a long time Jeeper. Cheers!
I was going to say something similar. I've always used a bench vise and a couple sockets because I didn't have a hydraulic press or ball joint press, but any of those options seem a bit easier than hammering.
@@mattmanyam You cant bend the ears out of alignment when your supporting from the back side. There is no way in heck pounding on any form of a bearing, going in or out, with a hammer, is a better solution or you'd see driveline mechanics beating on u-joints with sledge hammers (I know many do). No pro driveline shop, auto manufacturer, etc, slams ujoints from a yugo on up to a CAT 797 with a hammer. Its just bad practice thought I wont disagree its done daily.
I always add a drain plug if you have clearance while the dif cover is off. Changing the oil is made much more convenient and convenience means it might get done. I like to change it every 25K at least. Hassling a suction pump is a pain. Nice job. I have always (more than fifty years) put lots of grease in the bearings and hub. I use a good quality and have never had a problem doing it that way in a wide variety of vehicles. I am careful to set the bearings by the book, crank them to X amount of torque and then back them of X turn. Take care.
That sleeve also sets camber and caster on your alignment, I leave the one that is in there be and slowly insert the knuckle assembly to the axle housing. The factory sleeve is a zero taper or offset and after market ones can come in different degrees to set caber and caster. Plus to break the hold the tapers have on the housing I just hit it with the biggest hammer I have, it slightly ovals the taper only enough to break the taper, doesn’t matter if you hit the top or bottom first, once the taper has been broken it won’t rehold till the nut is tightened. For u joints I open a vise just enough to support the ears of the joint and hammer the top joint down forcing the upper cup out of its housing, flip the joint over and remove the lower cup. Then I put the new joint in the stub axle, knock the other cups out the same way only you are using the vise to support the joint and not the housing.
Steve just put a socket on the ball joint nut and rattle it off, the "Castle" nut will shear the split pin off cleanly and easily. 42yrs swinging wrenches teaches you a few tricks.. Hi from AU.
That's exactly what I do. No muss, no fuss.
Totally agree. Way easier.
Yep just chisel/cut off the ends of the split pin so the socket goes on then buzz it off with the impact gun so much less work.
Couldn’t agree more. 27 years wrenching in Michigan. By far the best way.
When putting the split pin back we usually bend them to the sides instead of over the top
3:45 Air impacts make short work of cotter pins too. Just shear them off.
Packing a wheel bearing by hand is so satisfying. And messy. But you know it's done right.
It was hilarious to see Steve toss a little "know what I'm sayin'" in there...lol. 🤣
Lots of folks talking about running the nut off the ball joint to sheer the cotter pin ... in my world, thats a 50/50 shot .. half the time the shaft breaks free and starts spinning with the nut, then the torches come out anyways. I've learned to start with torches whenever possible for that job.
I did this job once, 40 years ago. A lot more fun to watch someone else do it. Almost forgot my own experience. Thanks for the reminder.
Glad to see your son out in the shop learning from the best.
The lighting is perfect now that the shop ceiling is all done - makes your videos crystal clear. Superb production quality!
Elizabeth: "Where did the crack come from in the window?"
Steve: "Well, let me tell you about c-clips and u-joints ..."
I’m sorry, but I could watch this stuff all night long. Did a lot of it with my dad in the sixties and seventies.
haha...had plenty of fun and adventures in my GM/Chev square bodies
Steve, I'm an old fart, but I remember when my late dad taught me how to pack wheel bearings. Definitely by hand. Alas, 50 years ago we didn't have the gloves. But we had "Lava" soap that actually got rid of the grease on our hands. Thanks again (I always look forward to your Saturday updates) and stay safe and well.
They still make lava soap. Back in the day you put barrier cream on your hands to make it easier to get your hands clean
We used lava soap after washing our hands in gasoline......
@@DasShaten Same here.
I remember using lava soap. I seem to remember it smelled like sassafras. If we didn’t have lava we’d use comet cleanser. Course that didn’t smell nearly as good as lava.
@@weldchip Lava Soap can form its own version of barrier cream. I suspect that's how the latter product arose. We'd make a very thick lather of Lava soap and just keep rubbing it in until dry.
I TOTALLY agree - grease wheel bearings by hand.
An impact will drive that nut right past that cotter key. No torch necessary.
8 minutes in and I see the way he pets that dog. Definitely subscribing to this channel.
One of my best tools in the shop is a 3 foot long stick with a large magnet on the end....LOL...LOL.......Found many small parts with it.....
I just lost my quaker parrot she was about the same size as your bird she brought joy to me every day I really miss her it's so amazing how a small creature of God can grow on you also I really enjoy all of your videos
Nothing like the smell of "Kroil" in the morning! "Sproying" goes the C-clip,off to the unused C-clip graveyard! Good stuff, nice rebuild.
I am glad to see a TH-cam that has someone that is not stupid
Hi guys! Elisabeth needs her shop apron ! Nice video ! Enjiy watching!
On the one hand, these trucks were pretty much made to be disposable. On the other hand, I think the fact that it's so very difficult to get a basic, no frills truck these days has breathed new life into these old ones. I can certainly see the appeal of them. Personally, the only extra I want is a stereo. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think it's even possible to buy a new one without power windows and locks anymore.
Another great thought out video. Steve you are one talented man... Thank you for sharing with those of us that aren't as ambitious as you. NEVER stop being Steve the man with the knowhow.
Saturday morning coffee with the Summers Family. Its all good!
Great job on the axle Steve. So many times I've changed ball joints, bearings and u-joints laying on my back in the back yard. I learned to pack bearings in my palm the same way you did. Perfect coverage. Talk soon my friend.
Dad had a really huge old vice he never did bolt down so he could move it to where it was needed. We put it down on the floor to do u-joints, worked great. It was big enough the hammering didn't hurt it. He had, what looks like the exact same BFH. Sure brought back memories.
You can use your ball joint tool to remove/install u-joints too....works great and also makes owning one more useful....
Put the ball joint press in a vice and it is perfect for changing u joints. Nice and smooth. No hammering.
Must be Saturday Morning. Have a blessed weekend everyone.
Just a tip, when punching holes in gaskets, if you punch into the end grain instead of th side , you will get much cleaner cut.
Great video
U-joint cap pins: what I do is to use my finger to add more grease to the cap and ensuring the pins are lined up along the edge. Helps keep them in place. Factory uses minimal amount of grease.
Nicely skirted around TH-cam's definition of "family friendly" there Steve 😁
Steve, you have undoubtedly got the best seal installer of anyone that I know. Enjoyed the video.
Evening from the land of Kiwi’s, single malt and Steve Summers can’t beat that for a Saturday evening.
Nice work as always. Take care Steve, Elizabeth and family.
It's funny at work I replace many U joints I only replace one at a time because my employer doesn't want to spend the money, more often then not I end up replacing the new joint again just because it's the one that is in a bad spot or something
Yes @ 32:06 was how I was taught to pack wheel bearings. Some things just can't be improved on. Great Videos.
“Not saying mine was, not saying mine wasn’t”. 🤣🤣
Fire Wrench! Most important tool in the shop!
I’ll second the impact cotter pin trick and add that press you used to do the ball joints works well for u-joints.
Put the small end of the bearing, facing up, when using that packing tool, will do a better job. Still prefer hand packing though.
Back in my wrenching days I had my packing cone mounted to a bench and had a can covering it. I would put two bearings in at a time, quick and easy.
Very Talented Man with many useful skills! Enjoyed the Axle Build!
Another great episode of the Summer’s show, Thanks so much !
Seems when I watch I pick up a neat trick! Bolts in drill cleaning on wire wheel! Will do this next time I clean my bolts. Just wanted to say I have gone back and watched every vid on the shop build. You do excellent work. Thanks for Sharing!
Happy Saturday Mornin Steve and Family! Enjoying my Grits watching you and learning something new always. Thanks for sharing and spreading the knowledge, God Bless!
I bought the same snap ring pliers after you showed yours, and they are great. When I was a young child in the '50s they told us the inch worms were measuring us for our casket. A very good rebuild demo video. I have a neighbor who could benefit from watching this. Stay safe and tell Ms Elizabeth we said Hi!
It took me a few days to get through the entire video ,no reflection you. I just got busy.
New lathe and everything.
Good to you and yours
kimberzelik
Even an old man can learn something. Great vid. Always look forward to Steve's Saturday video.
Good job Steve , you’re making a lot of progress on the truck.. great to see the young lad giving you a hand , sure to be something he’ll look back on as a cherished memory as he gets older.. You are a great role model, well done mate 👍👍
Thanks!
i remember the old song "Inchworm, inchworm, measuring the marigolds" from way back, - Bing Crosby? But I've never actually seen one. Until now! Thanks Steve, All The Best from Somerset UK.
That's exactly what popped into my head. I think the version I grew up with was Anne Murray.
I've always enjoyed working on metalworking machines... not so much with roadgoing machines, other than out of necessity and sometimes desperation. But these truck overhaul videos are making me want to find an old Ford highboy and tinker it into a decent grocery getter... great stuff, thanks!
As for packers I grew up with hand packing and the tub style hand packer. The K-D 2775 hand bearing packer looks a lot like it, but was blue and labeled as a different brand. If someone was going to do 1 or 2 bearings, then I wouldn't bother, but after a dozen it's pretty nice to have. Looks like Lisle also makes a nice one.
I did quite a bit of fast forwarding, but happened to stop right at the "starting a family" portion of the show. That was pretty funny.
Great job. If I ever need to do this in the future I will refer to it as 'The Summers method' 😉😉
Like your son like repairing cars, remember my early years (15 yrs) stripping my dad cly head to do a deco work using a book, no TH-cam then.
and new shoes !!!!
very smart
🇸🇪🤙🤙
Good job Steve! And the sound was best yet!!! Thanks!!!
From the eyes of a drive line specialist you did a great job on on the rebuild .. a little bit different than what I would do but the job is done and it will give you service for many years to come
Fastest way to remove a nut is to cut it in half vertically so that the two sides fall away ... but it's fun to play with the gas axe :D
makes you wonder if the boy is helping because he wants the truck lol
Always enjoy watching whatever it is you're working on. You are a man of many talents. Thank you for taking us along!
Everybody got their hands in on this one! Great job guys!
Thanks Steve I have never seen one off those axel's apart and wondered how they worked .
Kane's 1st truck is coming along nicely! 🤑
It's always nice to see elizabeth in these videos.
Great video. Consider a HF "Leather Punch Tool" #838, $6.99. Great for holes in gaskit instead of individual punches.
Morning Steve!
My favorite Chevy Truck commercial was an older non-model women talking to the camera, she said "Don't You Buy No Ugly Truck!". They need to make more of those "Salt Of the Earth" type commercials.
Thanks for the tips. I hope I never need to do that but happy to have the knowledge if I ever do.
As always a great video. Good to see you using Kroil and in the proper amount. So many folks flood their parts thus wasting a valuable resource. Remember to give it time to soak in/work and you will be pleasantly surprised how well it works.
Never used a hammer to beat in/out U-Joints when I had a press available. Same for seals.
You are like me , protecting our head with our safety glasses instead of our eyes when snap rings a flying all over the place!
Mornin Steve
Steve you make that look easy, great job BTW.
Flip the bearing 180° in the bearing Packer . Outside of bearing goes down
Yeah, I saw he had it in upside down too.
Most common mistake when using something is not understanding how it works and then saying it is not working as good as your other method...read instructions and learn...if your doing it correctly and your still not satisfied then at least you tried to use it ( properly )....
Hand packing grease works....
Those grease packers work too....
You can do it anyway you prefer but learn proper useage when trying new tools...
Gotta love Steve and his humor at 30:02 - 30:26 😊
Steve, next time try your ball joint press on those u joints. I use mine first every time. It's successful 9 times out of 10.
That's a good idea 👍
Unless your Hazard Fraught ball joint press is better than mine, don't count on that "C-clamp" press part to remove really stuck ball joints. Mine was not really forged or it was made out of pewter, because mine bent badly.
Loved this one. But beware, you sometimes have a Teen walking inside your whorkshop.....
If the split pin is that rotted in I normally find that a good impact gun will make short work of it with much less mess than a torch, the pin is only there to stop the castle nut turning it is very strong even when new.
Beautifully explained and demonstrated - but I’m still glad I will never have to do one! Love your attention to detail. Thanks, Steve.
So... You'll never know the fun of beating on an old-school 4x4...
so sad...
Glad to see you using gloves. Men don’t realize how much damage they can do to their bodies with exposure to the different chemicals used in industry.
Great job excellent video quality as well
Brilliantly explained. Thanks for showing us.
Regarding springen and sprungen lost parts, I now know that my desk doesn't have enough stuff on it. Will do better. Thanks for that and the family planning tip too. Only the tip tho'
Nice job Steve
Not that torch work isn’t fun, but if you can fit a socket over the nut it’ll shear the cotter pin off cleanly and unscrew normally
I learned that trick over 40 years ago. A real time saver.
If I'm replacing the ball joints, I just run the impact on the nut and leave the cotton pin in it's place. Just cut cotton pin flush with the nut, if it's so rusted that you wont get it out it wont to any harm.
u-joints , vice and deepwell socket
Ah yes, the lesser spotted circlip hunt. How many happy hours have I spent on that?
I've learnt to give up and expect to randomly find it weeks/months later, nowhere near where I expected it to be.
How come it didnt go under some bench ?
I call them Jesus clips, because most times I am heard saying “Jesus where did that go”
ah yes the ping of doom......heard it many times
You have to watch your ball joints go in straight and adjust your ball joint tool to straighten it as it goes...
Like how you showed your wife on the seal install...
Score with the C-clip... Ping! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
All you have to do to get that castle nut off is break the cotter pin off as much as you can and hit it with an impact gun. It’ll shear it right off. Using the torch seems like a ton of work/mess. Regarding melting that one down
Awesome job buddy!! I’ve really enjoyed watching your videos!! I am also very picky when I rebuild stuff on my trucks also!! About 10 years ago I rebuilt a Dana 60 front axle and a gm 14 bolt rear axle and I did absolutely everything in them!! New ring and pinion, new bearings, new seals, and new brakes and the same thing on the rear axel but changed from drum brakes to disc brakes and also was able to put the ARB air lockers in both axels also!! For the front axel I ended up making a axel housing spreader to make installing and set up a little easier!!! After I did the rebuild on it I took it to a shop just to have them double check to make sure that I had set up everything correctly so I didn’t end up toasting any bearings or anything and being out a bunch of money!!! I took the spreader that I made with me and they asked me what the heck is that for?? I told them it was to help spread the housing so that I was able to install the carrier easier!! They then ask if I would sell it to them because they didn’t have anything like it!! I kinda thought that was funny!! I asked them how they installed the carriers and they said they usually take the hole axels out of the vehicles and put the housing in a shop press and put just a little pressure on the housing enough to spread it open just a little!! I’d definitely be afraid of cracking a housing and then have to try and find another axel for the customer!! They said by using the one that I made would save them at least 4 hours of just disassembly and putting the axel back in plus any parts that might get ruined during disassembly!! They said that by using the tool that I had made would save them at least 300.00 to 400.00$ in time and possibly parts!!! It did take me about a day to make but it definitely makes it a breeze setting up Dana 60 front axels very easily and much faster also!! After they had checked it out they said I couldn’t have done any better!! I was happy with all the work I had done to it!!
10 bolt was the weak sister to the Dana 44. i hope the inner axle seals don't present a problem later. I like all your stuff Steve, just some observations from a long time Jeeper. Cheers!
I push all my ujoints in and out with the ball joint press too. Fast and saves all the beating
I was going to say something similar. I've always used a bench vise and a couple sockets because I didn't have a hydraulic press or ball joint press, but any of those options seem a bit easier than hammering.
Easy to vent the ears out of alignment with a press or vise... Should give them a few whacks after pressing, to "relax" the squeeze on the ears.
@@mattmanyam You cant bend the ears out of alignment when your supporting from the back side. There is no way in heck pounding on any form of a bearing, going in or out, with a hammer, is a better solution or you'd see driveline mechanics beating on u-joints with sledge hammers (I know many do). No pro driveline shop, auto manufacturer, etc, slams ujoints from a yugo on up to a CAT 797 with a hammer. Its just bad practice thought I wont disagree its done daily.
"You hold the hammer and I'll hold the part. When I nod my head you hit it."
The part .. not my head!
10:56 In Europe we call them twentyfivepointfour worm.😁
that one looked like it could be called a centimeterworm
Hey Steve!
@27:30 or so...Now ya know why they are called (no disrespect intended) Jesus rings! OH Geeez!! Where did it go??? LOL!
Ken
lol
I always add a drain plug if you have clearance while the dif cover is off. Changing the oil is made much more convenient and convenience means it might get done. I like to change it every 25K at least. Hassling a suction pump is a pain. Nice job. I have always (more than fifty years) put lots of grease in the bearings and hub. I use a good quality and have never had a problem doing it that way in a wide variety of vehicles. I am careful to set the bearings by the book, crank them to X amount of torque and then back them of X turn. Take care.
That sleeve also sets camber and caster on your alignment, I leave the one that is in there be and slowly insert the knuckle assembly to the axle housing. The factory sleeve is a zero taper or offset and after market ones can come in different degrees to set caber and caster. Plus to break the hold the tapers have on the housing I just hit it with the biggest hammer I have, it slightly ovals the taper only enough to break the taper, doesn’t matter if you hit the top or bottom first, once the taper has been broken it won’t rehold till the nut is tightened.
For u joints I open a vise just enough to support the ears of the joint and hammer the top joint down forcing the upper cup out of its housing, flip the joint over and remove the lower cup. Then I put the new joint in the stub axle, knock the other cups out the same way only you are using the vise to support the joint and not the housing.
You need to throw that phase converter in the trash and roll into a VFD. It handles single to three phase conversion much cleaner and efficient.