Finished mine today once the 8 pin connectors from Amazon showed up. Great guide and not too hard at all if you are comfortable with electronics. Now I don't have to run the inverter in my RV just to keep Starlink running. Thanks again for posting this!
That's a lot of work. I think I'm going to ditch the Starlink-supplied router altogether and go with a router that runs 12v natively. Then power the dish with PoE through the optional Starlink ethernet adapter.
Thanks Kevin, you video was very useful. My starlink suddenly lost it's Ethernet connection, although WiFi was still working. I figured it must be a problem in the little USB-C type connectors, although no amount of wriggling, or spraying contact cleaner made any difference. I have replacement parts coming, but will take a week or two to arrive, so I figured I had nothing to lose. I eventually managed to butcher off the front glass sheet, and pulled out all the internals as per your video. Then I re-plugged everything on the bench and magically it worked and has been working fine since. I figured that the bulky mounting hardware around the connectors was somehow preventing correct alignment of the tiny contacts. Next I'll remount it all in a metal box (with external WiFi antenna) and better heat-sinks. I did keep my 240AC Power supply however. One thing though, there are lethal voltages around the AC Power supply, be careful!
this is over my head. but im commenting so the algorithms might send it to someone smarter. I didn't know starlink rv was AC. That is stupid awsome job.
Great tute, a bit above my electronic skills but great to see the method and the fact the it is a legitimate work around for the RV version (which makes sense to everyone). Thank you for the work to share with everyone
there is a actual version special for rv on the starlink site that can be mounted on vehicles and sailboats and come with a special mount for the antena , only problem is that it costs 2500 us dollars
1:05 what you're referring to as a "terrible heatsink" is the EMI shield for the power supply. The heat spreader is the other piece left behind in the router with the heat transfer pads.
Would you share what exact P/N your starlink router is? There appears to be at least two hardware revisions of the gen2 router with different Ethernet SICs. The older version uses Marvell 88E1512, and the newer is EconNet EN8801. Your PCB in this video appears to be using the Marvell SIC.
Hello. Pin 6 of my j5 connector referring to the 48v input came out of the board. Can you tell me if it is possible to make a jumper at another point on the board?
For simplicity your could just use a 12V to 110V inverter to plug the Starlink's power adapter in. Course it's not as efficient as a direct 12V supply wired in, but it's quick and easy.
I appreciate the project someone's got to do it but I'm going to go with just ditching the router now that it's possible I thought the router had some proprietary functionality that it needed the starlink dish but apparently not you can just Huck it in the garbage
I have a question. I have a starlink and I need to make it for a 12V power supply in a truck. is it enough to open it and connect the 12V cables to the motherboard, bypassing the power supply?
You should have modified the dish to use 12VDC and run a short ethernet from the dish to your own router. The 50VDC is only used to get the power to the dish over a 75ft or 150ft small gauge wire length. (its basically only power over ethernet)
I felt the same way, keeping the router allows me to connect the StarLink app and use all of the features it provides. I actually have another router connected to it with it's own wifi access point. That router tunnels a VPN through the StarLink router. If, for whatever reason I want to bypass the VPN/LAN I can connect to the StarLink router's wifi instead.
@@KevinsWorkshop 1 amp at the 50 volts? even on DC only? that's not much of an improvement, is it? with Power Factor correction on my solar (at 1.0) my wattmeter reads .8 amps at 50v.
@@KevinsWorkshop thanks! That sound amazing :). So I shouldn't have problems running my compressor fridge ~30-60W and Starlink on the ecoflow river pro's build in automotive socket (Max 136W) with a split adapter. Really good news.
What is the 48Volt for? is it possible that its for the satellite dish? If yes you might find it being transformed down to 12DC inside the arial again. 😂
I was really surprised by the almost complete lack of cooling in there. I suspect these will start failing after a couple of years of use. I'm not sure if it's form over function or planned obsolescence.
@@KevinsWorkshop, probably planned obsolescence. Having something last 5 or 10 years is not profitable to them!!! Looks at Samsung washing machines!!!!!
I am a truck driver, I ordered starlink internet and I would like to connect it to the 12V cigarette lighter input is it possible? is it possible for you to modify my starlink for 12V power supply, of course, for a fee :)
@@KevinsWorkshop lol i love people like you so that public park that has a curb btw and looks just like a verge and tress on the other side park no grass section that the city maintains etc yes you being the jerk that you are parked there're i can see you do it alot because of the dead grass.. also your taxes lol what all of your .5 cents you paid into them ok so you get to destroy the grass and park illegally for the half a cent.. wow the entitlement....cant wait for a cop to come by and ticket your ass...park in a rv park or where its a parking spot. that is not a parking spot so im gunna go drive my big ass rv and park next to the park bench where people eat and play how bout you park on the play ground too since you pay taxes mr important
Finished mine today once the 8 pin connectors from Amazon showed up. Great guide and not too hard at all if you are comfortable with electronics. Now I don't have to run the inverter in my RV just to keep Starlink running. Thanks again for posting this!
That's awesome! I'm glad the video was useful!
If the only function of the Starlink PCB is Router; Why not replace it with an off the shelf router?
The parts list is very much appreciated. Plan to throw one of these together
That's a lot of work. I think I'm going to ditch the Starlink-supplied router altogether and go with a router that runs 12v natively. Then power the dish with PoE through the optional Starlink ethernet adapter.
That works too! I'm pretty sure there are videos out there that explain it.
Did you successfully manage this?
I have a plan to do the same.
Thanks Kevin, you video was very useful. My starlink suddenly lost it's Ethernet connection, although WiFi was still working.
I figured it must be a problem in the little USB-C type connectors, although no amount of wriggling, or spraying contact cleaner made any difference. I have replacement parts coming, but will take a week or two to arrive, so I figured I had nothing to lose.
I eventually managed to butcher off the front glass sheet, and pulled out all the internals as per your video. Then I re-plugged everything on the bench and magically it worked and has been working fine since. I figured that the bulky mounting hardware around the connectors was somehow preventing correct alignment of the tiny contacts.
Next I'll remount it all in a metal box (with external WiFi antenna) and better heat-sinks.
I did keep my 240AC Power supply however.
One thing though, there are lethal voltages around the AC Power supply, be careful!
this is over my head. but im commenting so the algorithms might send it to someone smarter.
I didn't know starlink rv was AC. That is stupid
awsome job.
Great tute, a bit above my electronic skills but great to see the method and the fact the it is a legitimate work around for the RV version (which makes sense to everyone). Thank you for the work to share with everyone
there is a actual version special for rv on the starlink site that can be mounted on vehicles and sailboats and come with a special mount for the antena , only problem is that it costs 2500 us dollars
1:05 what you're referring to as a "terrible heatsink" is the EMI shield for the power supply. The heat spreader is the other piece left behind in the router with the heat transfer pads.
Good to know! Thanks for the insight
I didn't even know this was possible, thanks!
Beautiful conception and presentation.
Thank you kindly!
Is this something you would consider doing for others if you were sent their original router? Seems like you have the tools, supplies, and knowledge!
Would you share what exact P/N your starlink router is? There appears to be at least two hardware revisions of the gen2 router with different Ethernet SICs. The older version uses Marvell 88E1512, and the newer is EconNet EN8801. Your PCB in this video appears to be using the Marvell SIC.
Your like an electronic wizard to me, cool stuff :)
Hello. Pin 6 of my j5 connector referring to the 48v input came out of the board. Can you tell me if it is possible to make a jumper at another point on the board?
Awesome workaround, so silly it doesn't come with DC power option from the factory.
For simplicity your could just use a 12V to 110V inverter to plug the Starlink's power adapter in. Course it's not as efficient as a direct 12V supply wired in, but it's quick and easy.
Indeed, that works fine for occasional use. I'm full timing so this is more ideal for me.
Pure Genius!
I appreciate the project someone's got to do it but I'm going to go with just ditching the router now that it's possible I thought the router had some proprietary functionality that it needed the starlink dish but apparently not you can just Huck it in the garbage
Peefect solution for rv
Do you have wiring diagram?
Hello, can anyone help me. I used a dc-dc inverter from 12v to 48V 3a 144w but it didn't work with another router
Nice Job!
Kevin, where (and which pins) did you get the connector pins to connect to the power connector on the router board?
I believe they are regular JST Pins. I had them laying around already but they're very common.
If the only function of the Starlink PCB is Router; Why not replace it with an off the shelf router?
Fantastic, you should sell a kit
I have a question. I have a starlink and I need to make it for a 12V power supply in a truck. is it enough to open it and connect the 12V cables to the motherboard, bypassing the power supply?
Sadly no, the router needs regulated 12 volts and the dish itself needs PoE at 50 volts.
where is the connection diagram does anyone have it there can share
Please do a video on your house on wheels
I hope to do more showing my DIY solutions. Hopefully before too long!
Très intéressant ! MERCI
You should have modified the dish to use 12VDC and run a short ethernet from the dish to your own router. The 50VDC is only used to get the power to the dish over a 75ft or 150ft small gauge wire length. (its basically only power over ethernet)
What you're saying is true and does work. This is an alternative method intended to keep the functionality of the router for those who want it.
I felt the same way, keeping the router allows me to connect the StarLink app and use all of the features it provides.
I actually have another router connected to it with it's own wifi access point. That router tunnels a VPN through the StarLink router. If, for whatever reason I want to bypass the VPN/LAN I can connect to the StarLink router's wifi instead.
Thanks man, good work! How much Watts/Ampere does it draw?
Around 1amp idle and 3amps when active. 4amps while the motors are in use. I couldn't get the heater to turn on due to the summer heat though.
@@KevinsWorkshop 1 amp at the 50 volts? even on DC only? that's not much of an improvement, is it? with Power Factor correction on my solar (at 1.0) my wattmeter reads .8 amps at 50v.
I'm measuring the total current being drawn from the battery. Roughly 12 to 36 watts.
@@KevinsWorkshop thanks! That sound amazing :). So I shouldn't have problems running my compressor fridge ~30-60W and Starlink on the ecoflow river pro's build in automotive socket (Max 136W) with a split adapter. Really good news.
Can you clarify what you mean by at idle and active? Also, does this impact the hesting function at all?
How can we order one from you ?
You could use 12 DC v to 220 AC simple car inverter?
110 or 220 depending on your model/region, yes that works. It's less efficient though.
Wouldnt it be easier, cheaper and easily replaced using aftermarket Wifi routers?
You would need a PoE injector but yes, that is a popular method.
Do you have a shopping list for this project?
The main components are in the video description.
What is the 48Volt for? is it possible that its for the satellite dish?
If yes you might find it being transformed down to 12DC inside the arial again. 😂
It's for the dish PoE. Some voltage will likely be lost over long runs but that is expected.
@@KevinsWorkshop Could any PoE router replace the one from Starlink?
Very cool build. I hate how most products are built to be "barely cooled"
I was really surprised by the almost complete lack of cooling in there. I suspect these will start failing after a couple of years of use. I'm not sure if it's form over function or planned obsolescence.
@@KevinsWorkshop, probably planned obsolescence. Having something last 5 or 10 years is not profitable to them!!! Looks at Samsung washing machines!!!!!
I am a truck driver, I ordered starlink internet and I would like to
connect it to the 12V cigarette lighter input is it possible? is it
possible for you to modify my starlink for 12V power supply, of
course, for a fee :)
Yes, as long as the cig adapter can supply at least 12V at 4 Amps, or a little higher when the antenna heater turns on.
The obvious statement to make is that starlink should release a 12 volt model themselves.
Absolutely! It's rediculous that they haven't by now and people have to figure out workarounds like this.
can you build one for me?
let me know how much and I’ll send you my router. Thank you.
You need to go into business converting them routers
I thought about it but that would be the day StarLink finally released a DC powered version of their own.
Heres another way I found of doing it th-cam.com/video/vrGCL9pNDDc/w-d-xo.html
why are you parkjed on that nice grass on the cities property thats not a parking spot
It's a public park on county property paid for by my taxes.
@@KevinsWorkshop lol i love people like you so that public park that has a curb btw and looks just like a verge and tress on the other side park no grass section that the city maintains etc yes you being the jerk that you are parked there're i can see you do it alot because of the dead grass.. also your taxes lol what all of your .5 cents you paid into them ok so you get to destroy the grass and park illegally for the half a cent.. wow the entitlement....cant wait for a cop to come by and ticket your ass...park in a rv park or where its a parking spot. that is not a parking spot so im gunna go drive my big ass rv and park next to the park bench where people eat and play how bout you park on the play ground too since you pay taxes mr important
Hacky AF. :D
How disastrous is the router.