Hacking the Starlink Router to run DC Power
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- How to bypass the AC power supply and Inject DC power straight into the Orignal Starlink Router.
In our two previous videos, I showed how to Flat Mount the Rectangular Starlink dish to the roof of your camper and then swapped the Starlink Router for the new Dishy DC Power over Ethernet adaptor.
DIY Flatmount Starlink - • DIY Starlink Flat Moun...
Starlink DC Power Supply - • Starlink DC Power Supply
But several commenters asked me to show how to convert the Orignal Starlink router to DC power if long-range Wi-Fi, wired ethernet, and advanced network configuration are unnecessary.
Links to the supplies I used in this video:
amzn.to/404HdFI 👈 I'd use these 3 Pin connectors for the DC connections.
amzn.to/411XTyZ 👈 This is the 12 to 48-volt Boost Converter that I used.
amzn.to/3UuMGV3 👈 This is a Bigger 288-watt Boost Converter for Snow Melt.
amzn.to/3zN9KVM 👈 This is the 12 Volt Regulator
amzn.to/3MAl135 👈 Here are the LM2956 I used
Other Tools I used:
amzn.to/3GDdLjw 👈 This is my beloved TS100 Soldering Iron.
amzn.to/3GDnDK0 👈 This is the Pinecel Soldering Iron - cheaper.
🛰️Get your Starlink Dishy DC and use the promo code "Everlanders" for 10% off:
boondocker.io/products/dishy-...
0:00 Welcome
0:55 How to Open the Starlink Router
3:05 First Method - Least Destructive
6:28 Test for Shorts
8:48 Choosing a Power Supply
13:28 First Powerup on DC Power Supply
14:45 Second Method - Solder to the Power Supply
22:58 Powering Starlink with Dishy DC & LM2596
26:11 Demonstrating Starlink on DC
27:34 Method 3 and 4 - FAIL
28:38 I'll be sticking with the Dishy DC Power Supply
#starlink #overlanding #colombia
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Ty!
As much as I enjoy watching the hackery in general, I suspect the two methods you showed, PoE injection and 12/48v injection to the original router, will be the most popular. Going further into custom PCBs or enclosures would be for a small audience that would actually implement. Though I and others would watch it for sure anyway. 🙂 Even if the hack does not apply to my situation I tend to learn something.
Jason, I followed your 2nd approach of soldering directly to the router Power Supply and added an external connector to connect to the 12v and 48v converter/regulators and it all worked like a charm.
The wire approach for removing the front was a saving grace even though it was still an absolute nightmare to remove. Once put back together it still looks factory.
Your breakdown alone gave me the confidence I needed to do this mod.
Thank You so much for doing this video!
Would love to see a wattage draw comparison. Inverter ac power vs straight from dc battery source while starlink is powered up to see how much energy savings you can get with a modification like this. Great videos. Thanks for sharing!
This was already done in previous videos...
I don't even need to do this (not yet at least)...
Yet here I am, learning and expanding my frame of reference as to what is possible. Love your videos!
Everything that you do is very clean, cant help but appreciate your handywork
I'm probably not gonna do it but appreciate seeing the process. Always learn something new from the videos.
You went through a whole lot of trouble to show these hacks on YT. Thank you for your effort!
Ask any questions about USB C here, all caps only!
Sure, we've been running our laptops from DC to DC converters for years... Even the 320w powerhouse machine is no problem...
Here you go: amzn.to/3GB4eJq
I'm having a hard time following what you're asking...
WHY OH WHY DID THEY MAKE MULTIPLE VOLTAGES IN THE SAME CONNECTOR??
Because the devices can handshake in software for the voltage it wants and can send the maximum power for the fastest charge.
Hey man I cannot believe I haven't seen this channel before. First of all I love Canada and Canadians - second I love your electronic projects. You are very good at explaining everything. Also the Camper and automations you have built are epic - so inspirational to me. I am building solar on my balcony in Tokyo and at the same time automating my family's home to save on the electricity bill. You have so many ideas and thank you for sharing. All the best sincerely from a Dane living in Tokyo.
I always enjoy your videos. They are always thorough, and yet concise and to the point.
About the subtexts: Though not a necessity for me, I still find it nice to have the text along with the voice.
I hope that the no-english speaking viewers might chime in as well, as I know that the auto-translations works better when the complete original language transcript is available to the translator robots.
I'm with Julio. Thanks for the excellent instruction.
Loving this series, thank you for sharing such great info :)
Great video. I loved the background thunder at appropriate moments.
Love the video. I have ordered a Dishy DC as I think it is certainly the most elegant solution and I am able to wait for it’s arrival. If I was to chose one of the hacks you showed in this video, it would certainly be the first one and I didn’t really think all the extra work of the second, and the risk of damaging the unit, is worth it. Had I not already ordered the Dishy DC, I certainly would be interested in an option where I was able to print a new back to the router and have an inclosed dc/dc converter. 😊
@ 16:30 "actually I just ripped the circuit off" dude, I lost it hahaha. I can't count how many times I've done something like that. Salute!
We neeed more videos, WELCOME BACK WE MISS YOU GUYS
Another great fun and instructive video. Thanks!
I found that to be a better option for DIY DC power than the other options previously provided. I also like that you can show up at a house with AC power and get online using your same equipment.
Yup
Thanks for an excellent tutorial, you did a great job thanks!
I'd also go Dishy DC and my own router as you have but it was still great to see how you'd achieve a DC conversion.
It probably seems obvious to you but every video has taught me something I didn't know or given me an approach I hadn't considered.
Thanks so much!
Another fantastic project for me to consider for my camper. Thanks 🤪
Good Job!!!! Love the videos. I would like to see the 3D-printed version. Thanks again for ALL the videos; I am in the process of making the 12-volt water heater now. Thanks again!!
We just found you today, the utoobs even suggested you to my husband in that sidebar suggestions column. So, we're subscribed and the all videos bell is selected.
I love the very nicely subtitled commentary to help us understand better; us boomers did something to our hearing back in the day.
So, thank you, I do appreciate them. Just wanted to let you know. And I'm going to share your channel to our sons in hope they don't think their old, fuddy-duddy parents are sharing another thing like we all did back in the day with LOL-Cats.
Thanks for being a brainiack, and for sharing your genius with all of us out here.
Great job,many thanks for great videos !!
Thank you!! Used this to modify mine for use on a boat in conjunction w the 48v power supply. Router booted right up.
Careful, if your supply goes much over 52 volts when charging, you could run into issues.
Who cut the cheese?
Brilliant!
Merry Christmas!
Another great video!!! Thank you very much.
Just helped me out a lot. Thanks for the great video.
Awesome and brilliant work !!
100% Enjoy the subtitles! Keep it up!
incredible job man!! congrats!!
Thank you. Excellent video.
thank you! i used jb waterweld to stick the corners of the high power 48v converter to the back of the router, while the tiny lm2596 was added to the 12v line hidden inside the router's case. everything's working great inlcuding the flat mounted gen2 dish! what would be nice is a custom casing that uses the existing router's glass so we wont need any vent holes (heat passes through glass), while being big enough to have all these customizations placed inside the box. again, thanks for the video guide, they help us a lot!
I love your projects !!!
Props on the subtitles. As a hearing impaired viewer its good to know you have us in mind too. Keep up the good work.
Much appreciated!
Thank you sir for this videos, clear explaination and very professional. I learned so much from you. God bless you always to your journey.
I rarely comment, but that's the first Starlink-related video I see where a person knows what they do and use proper (WAGO) connectors for cables. Also, thanks for showing up the insides. I had no idea these internal power connectors are so flimsy, you're actually providing thicker cables than pins themselves. I guess I'd rather go with replacing whole original cable and connector in the Dishy (quite destructive sadly), this will allow to use custom PoE injector and ditch that awful original cable connector. Thanks for the video!
Brilliant work and demonstration! (I enjoy your sense of humour.) I'm getting ready to convert my unit to DC using your original POE Hack method but it's good to see an alternative solution. As it turns out the 12V WiFi router I am going to use to replace the Starlink version has a better signal and better coverage to the other end of our boat. Turning off the inverter and the efficiencies of using the DC power source should be well worth the trouble. Thanks for your great work here.
Yes, the Starlink Router's wifi is terrible, happy to have the long range MoFi 5500 👍
After multiple attempts and still failing to get the POE injector + Linksys router to work properly, I followed your oh-so-excellent, more invasive hack instructions and converted the Starlink router to DC. I was pretty chuffed to have it working when I left the boat last evening. Thank you very much!
On a 40 foot boat and with no intention of accessing the WiFi signal beyond a limited distance (we won't be setting up lawn chairs in the dinghy); the Starlink router works well enough. I'm a happy camper.
(Sorry to read about the loss of your pup... My condolences. They leave a big hole when they go.)
Excelente, did you Solder to the pins, or the power supply board?
I tried soldering to one pin but it was too flimsy so went to your more robust, solder to the power supply board method.
I’m thinking I may add a 12 VDC LED to the case & then get to disabling the motors for a flat mount next. …
True contentment is elusive ;-)
Ya had me at "these are really hard to get off" (kerplunk), well done :) 1:27
I think we'll get on just fine...
Hi there, greetings from Brasil. I made something similar as the content from this video. But I installed a switch with three positions and two poles (12 and 48 VDC).
I also installed an external connector with three poles (GND, 12 and 48 V) that I can plug and unplug form the 12 to 48 VDC converter.
So if someone forget to disconnect the AC or the DC input, the router cannot be damaged.
We like your videos.
Would love to see a wiring diagram of how you did this with the switch.
You just cut the motor wires (one to each motor) and put a switch inline interrupting the power to the motor.
Thanks for the video! I converted my router to 12v using your video. Only change was I installed the 12v regulator inside the top of the router in the open space above the antenna. No It didn’t change wireless range best I can tell. And the only Issue I had is dishy intermittently has current spikes when booting up. You have to provide enough power to get thru these or it just reboots. I had to install the router near my battery bank in my motorhome, I tried several existing circuits but none could keep the voltage high enough to get thru the spikes but they are all small gauge wires and fairly long. Its great not having to run inverter for internet anymore.
This is awesome, thank you very much sir 🎉
Obrigada!! Continue com as legendas sim !! I'm from Brazil !!
Another Excellent video and hack. Thank you so very much, sir. We appreciate your efforts.
Many thanks!
Worked great!! Thanks man!!
love it and i will be taking on this mod!
Excelente demostración, y el subtitulado en español muy bueno 👍🏼👍🏼
Gracias ¡Parece que todo ese esfuerzo está dando sus frutos!
Very good video. Awesome to be able to run off 12v. Thanks 🛠️🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦
Maybe you know this already, but the Wago 221 have probe holes on the opposite side of where ether cables go. That way you can easily measure when all holes are occupied =)
Thanks a lot, really useful information. Should have my dish V2 in a week and will apply your hacks and disconnect the motors. Yeust both mods will reduce power consumption by maybe 25%.
No, our power consumption went from 56w to 28w, averaged over 24 hours.
Thanks a lot!!! Great content great quality🎉
🎉woot
Really, really nice, tks 4share.
Great video as always. Personally Dishy DC solution just seems easier and cleaner but always good to have other options like you showed. I'd watch another video if you decided to make custom case but I don't think it's needed. I would be most interested in combining SL wireless and Dishy DC into a single case if you do go ahead as I can see that being a cool project.
Emngeeew NN no she wo wao lmk k lo mb mom n😅
Plpll
🤣🤣🤣 So true...
😢
Nice work excellent idea !
Legend only 3 wires just got my dishy duali but in spain at the moment avoiding the storms in the UK so will be doing this mod also 😂
Hey thanks for the caption, helps a lot.
@Everlanders, thank you so much for the video, I'm building an off-grid setup and bought everything needed to complete the installation with only the Starlink kit itself adding the dishy DC adapter, my only doubt is if it is possible to do a Starlink router setup where I delete the aluminum shields on it, also I'm looking into building the setup using the starmount housing where the only wire to connect is the power cord and everything is enclosed in the housing.
Sure, it's very possible... But I don't do free customer service for Starmount... Ask them.
Great video and a really nice solution. Being very lazy I opted for a high efficiency AIMS sinewave inverter. It would be interesting to know the 12V (13.2V) current draw for your setup. The AIMS PWRIG200012120S is 95% efficient and has a very low standby current. By wiring an external transfer relay to be powered by shore power I keep the current draw on the battery to a minimum. Sadly most inverters power the internal transfer relay from the inverter, which just burns battery power for no reason.
Sadly, AIMS inverters are not as efficient as they claim, and they have a very narrow input voltage range that would not work for us in the countries we travel. I replaced 2 AIMS inverters while in Mexico because the guys couldn't charge from the 91vac grid, it would only error out. Dead in the water with no solar...
Dude, thank you!
Nice work
I would add that those variable output boards should be dialled in to their output voltage with a load connected. I've had them fly wildly if set without a load attached.
Thankfully mine is still at 12.0 with the (very small) load attached.
Nice video, thanks :)
Thanks for the information! Do you hav a video on your diy for the double decker solar panels?
Yes indeed, you should be able to find them all with the following search:
th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=everlanders+solar
Nice job
Yea, that sounds interesting to see how to 3d print a custom case.
Before opening the case I'd be looking at a means of plugging "mains" into the usual connector, likely from an inverter maybe assisted by solar and batteries.
You completely missed the assignment...
I wonder why SpaceX doesn't have a DC volt kit for the "roam" StarLink. Maybe it comes with the flat mount kit, which is a super duper version with higher speeds and better connections, hence the $2.5k. Good idea with adding the board connector. I wonder if you could have your friend make a small PCB that you would solder directly down to the power connections on the toaster with small lugs to attach wires to and tap power from that. If youi printed a case, make it a real toaster. Another great video!
No DC options from SpaceX yet, they are all AC mains powered.
Now we need to hack the GUI. Need to get into the wireless settings and change it from 80 MHz way to 20 if you can do that you’ll be my new hero.
Sorry, I won't be putting any effort into that. proper control of my network settings is why I'm sticking with Dishy DC and my MoFi 5500 shown here: th-cam.com/video/RlENmAikSQQ/w-d-xo.html
With the LED only coming on while using 230/110V in the first method, it could be used to disconnect the 12V supply via a relay to protect the installation. Another 12V supply LED could be added for clarity as well.
Yup 👍
This is a great idea as I live in my caravan, the 12v option seems great, I think I'll be using the LM2596 and the silver 12-48v converter, should work ok?
Cheers,
Paul
i would go with a 3d printed enclosure and keep the glass as well as set up resistors or a small step down transistor or something to let the led work to show you have power .
G'day mate, have you put together a 3d printer case for the dishy dc power supply yet? Anyways, thanks for the content. Really glad I came across your channel. Safe travels mate.
Sure did, 4 months ago... www.thingiverse.com/thing:5893999
Awesome video, Thank you. Do you have a video on using my mikro tik wifi switches instead of the SL mesh router?
Sure don't...
Hi, thanks
Was wondering if you can take the whole thing apart and install it in the same area as the dish and do away completely with the router case.Just make he case for the dish a little larger to take the space. I am currently making a mold to use fiberglass and gel coat for my dish as I need this on my catamaran I live on. I did find the video useful and will watch the others
I can... But I have no interest in such things as I needed several Gigabit RJ45's for high bandwidth appliances.
Gracias por los subtítulos en español.
Con mucho gusto! 🙏
great thank you
these vids are so good love it, just a question on the option 3 "most destructive" method, when you used your little patch cable to the SL.router, weas that an Xswapped lead? reason im asking is I have ordered the boondocker dishy dualie board and trying to figure how to wire the patch cable to the original SL router so i can use it for testing or troubleshooting bus as the dishy connection is standard and not Xswapped not sure which way the patch to the SL router will need to be wired, any insight please would be most apreciated.
If you're using Dishy DC, there are no swapped cables anywhere. Standard T568B everywhere, then you can plug back into the Toaster too...
Nice instruction and guidance. A question what is the total DC wattage consumed on average when Starlink is connected?
56 watts on an AC inverter with AC power Adapter, 28 watts when using a DC-DC converter (averaged over 24 hours)
Hallo, Ja. Es Lohn sich. Vielen Dank dafür. Lieben Gruß
Yes! Please do the 3D printed option you mentioned at the end! That would be the bees knees in the cats panjammamas (3
@everlanders thank you so much this great sharing. One question. Is it possible to not remove motor from the dishy but still connect it to 12v power suply and expect same good quality internet connection?
Sure
@@Everlanders great. thank you. I have very brand new German Caravan. It has off grid solar and battery. The caravan has its own 12v system. Do you think I still need that (converter 12v and 48v)
My plan is I will do the first approach you did. get those pins out of the router and then connect them to caravan 12V system. I myself like originality 🙂 thank you 🙏🏼
As I mentioned in the video, your 12 volt system will fluctuate between 10 5 and 14.4. Not stable enough.
as always amazing, Is it really that much more efficient? I don’t recall you saying anything about that.
Yes, it's power consumption is about half, from 58w down to 28w, averaged over 24 hours of normal use.
Hello sir, what is the reason why may converter 12v to 48v 3amp, not power may Starlink Desh? What do you recommend?
Would you share what exact P/N your Starlink router is? There appears to be at least two hardware revisions of the gen2 router with different Ethernet SICs. The older version uses Marvell 88E1512, and the newer is EconNet EN8801. Your PCB appears to be using the EcoNet SIC
Hello. Pin 6 of my j5 connector referring to the 48v input came out of the board. Can you tell me if it is possible to make a jumper at another point on the board?
6 and 8 are both connected together on the Board.
photos.app.goo.gl/RcUDxVdWvVvHKsyB6
Hey there.. Months ago when you created this video.. because I'm a subscriber and love the video content.. I ordered one of them Dishy Duallies. I just got mine in the mail last week. I thought I was never gonna see it.. haha.. So.. I'm proficient with a soldering iron\gun. So I'll order some WEGO 221's... but the LM2956.. There are several to choose from. I paused the video to view yours as close as I could.. tried to compare which one is the one you used and am hoping it's the #10Gtek# Buck Converter Step Down Module LM2596 DC to DC Voltage Regulator, 3.0~40V to 1.5~35V Power Supply Module, Pack of 2 version. Also.. Where can I obtain one of them fancy cases for it with YOUR logo on it..??? :)
I used your 2nd option (solder to the pcb) it works great, I used the LM2596 and a 6a 12-48v converter, would I be correct in saying if you connect the 12 pin to the led, the light should come on?
No, further investigation shows the LED is powered by the AC power supply and triggered through 2 optocouplers... Probably not worth going down that route.
@@Everlanders ok thank you
@everlanders I'm wondering if you have checked the power draw when running with this hack. Will the dish connect with 48V 2.6A since my ecoflow inverter only outputs 126W or 12.6V 10A.
I see in some of your earlier replies you mention 130W during the startup sequence. So close... I'm trying to avoid adding a battery with higher Amp rating into the sequence.
Yup, 130 to boot, 30 during operation.
Nice work! However you can do without the 12v adaptor if running in 12v batteries. Has been confirmed that the 12v is just running into a power adaptor with an input of 11 to 16v acceptable. Outputs are all below 5v
Please cite your sources.
@@Everlanders there was a post a month or two ago with comments from one of the guys who works with these. The 8892 power supply chip specs quote up to 16v input! Trying to find the post and if I can I will link it for you. He also showed testing up to 16v with no issues.
By the way thanks for showing this, I was wondering if it could be powered remotely with the mains power supply still in place for optional use.
@@Everlanders didn't find the post, but did find the person it came from, Oleg Kutkov, senior engineer at Ubiquity Ukraine and developer of a lot of add ons for Starlink.
Awesome video, thanks a lot!! Is it possible to add a cigarette lighter to the end of the 12v/48v way? And run starling of DC via cigarette lighter?! Thanks again
Yes, shouldn't be a problem.
@@Everlanders thank you. Also forgive my ignorance. Where do I buy the 12v 48v and ground cables? And what’s awg?
Could you gut the 110v gubbons out and stealth the dc equipment inside
Yes
What a bout the the heating part will that still work and how many amps will it take ?
Don't care.
дякую за саби!
Great video and much easier implementation than the other one I have seen on TH-cam. But, the one and only reason to do this is to save power and unfortunately you didn't compare power usage between running DC and AC. Yes, many variables due to different regulators and inverter efficiency but a baseline comparison would have been nice. Am I saving 20%, 50%? Is most of the loss due to inverter inefficiency or due to Starlink AC power supply?
As shown in previous videos, power consumption is 28 watts on DC, about half of what the AC power supply and Inverter used.
@@Everlanders But, unless I am misinterpreting in that video only the dish was powered off DC. Now both the dish and the router are DC powered.
28.6 watts averaged
Which method is more efficient for energy saving. the modification with poe injector or the modification of internal wiring?
Saludos amigo
Both use 28 watts
Subbed 🔔 In the Dubbley Do, 😅 Thanks for Sharing All That WORK! 👊 Bro!
ALL CAPS 4 READABILITY?
such readable, most winning!
Is there access to the header pins from the rear of the router? Perhaps it would be possible to drill a hole through the back of the router to avoid having to pry open the case.
I thought about that too, but the aluminum plate covers the back of the unit too. So you'd need to cut through the plastic AND the aluminum without getting too many metal partials inside...
Great video. Is there any issue if a firmware upgrade is needed on dishy?
Nope, mine updates just fine...