UPDATE: After 6 months are Starlink flat mount failed us. It got condensation inside and damaged the unit. Here’s a link to the video: th-cam.com/video/l4E2QKpdBl0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IBckg4K5pboVKcyj Original Comment: Thanks for watching the video!!! We really appreciate it! I will not make the “bits / bytes” mistake again haha Also here's some more info regarding how the Starlink is performing on our Instagram reel: instagram.com/reel/Cwh_qb-o4h6/ For those who think it’s stupid to mount it flat, here’s a link describing how a phased array antenna (this is a phased array dish) wifiranger.com/how-does-starlink-work/#:~:text=As%20a%20satellite%20moves%20across,uses%20a%20%E2%80%9Cphased%20array.%E2%80%9D
Only reason I can see to tilt the antenna, is to let rain fall off. The antenna will definitely lose signal strength with any water pooling on the top, but it is flat so there wont be much.
I had a strong suspicion this was a bad idea and then saw this as the first comment.. thanks for being honest and telling people it’s not a great idea.
@@baliwski A desiccant would have extended the life some, but the question is how did the moisture get in to the housing in the first place. If it was because it had been raining for the 3 days during the assembly, then a desiccant pack may have been enough. If it was related to the material the housing was made of, how permiable it is, and whether there is barometric pressure change air exchanges happening that allowed the moisture in after a good (and dry) seal up, you would need to have a way to periodically replace the desiccant or have a way to heat dry it, venting the released moisture out of the housing. The comment that the housing is 3d printed doesn't give me a good feel for the housing being water tight. The Plexiglass lid very well may be, and the rubber gasket, and the glue may all have been good, but having done 3d printing for the past decade, I have a healthy respect for water's ability to infiltrate prints.
It's not a "little magnet" it's a ferrite which can improve performance in certain EMI "noisy" environments and/or reduce electromagnetic emissions of the device to bring it in compliance with FCC rules.
Great, great, informative video without "over-gabbing" or becoming redundant. Hope a lot of vanlifers get this info. I'm in a cabin in eastern Arizona on the side of a mountain, off-off grid and only have "2 bar" cell service, about 3 or 4 hours a day. Having too many issues with 110 volt so this 12 volt solution is a win win. Thank you and travel safe.
You made me comfortable in performing my own project like this to put on my atv and snowmobile when I’m out there traveling between communities in the Arctic, thanks dude. You’re the man!
The little rubber thingy (ferrite bead) stops interference from magnetic fields in the cable if I am not mistaken. There is also a channel called everlanders on TH-cam who have also mounted their starlink on their vehicle.
Correct. Normally, ferrite coils “choke” common mode current from coming down the coaxial cable between the antenna and receiver. There are several YT videos on the subject covered by Amateur radio operators that are familiar with antenna theory.
Have a look at the Mikrotik Hex Poe router. Runs on DC, can output 48v via the built in POE at/af ports. So you can do away with the 12/24v converter and the injector and end up with a much better router to boot.
@@JasonParkers Damn your correct, for some reason I thought they had wireless in the hex series. I normally have a AP attached so didn't really think about it.
@@TheGamingForLife1 you miss the point. You do not have "megabytes per second" download. You have mega BITS per second download. That's 8 times slower than you stated. It's still somewhat fast but nowhere near as fast as you stated.
@@markphillips8019I’m working in IT and I’m not dotting the I‘s and slashing the T’s as you! The point is the comparison to his internet connection from home! It’s the same as the electricians get mad if u mix up kWh and kW as well kwh and kw…. Etc. In German it’s just called Klugscheisser….. Consider, he is not an electrician nor IT guy and be thankful he is doing the effort to show how he did it! 😊
The Mbps means Megabits Per Second, for Megabytes Per Second you need to take the value speed-test shows you and divide it by 8, for example, your 20Mbps is 2.5MB/s and the 170-ish is 21.25MB/s.
Working in IT people do this all the time. You know how many times I hear gigabytes or megabytes per second instead of megabits or gigabits per second. So maybe that is why it is not confusing to me but the fact he was consistent when talking should have easily clued you in to megabits and not megabytes. Kind of like when you are reading and see their, there, and they’re used wrong it’s easy to see which one they should have used. Not a big deal especially since you can clearly see megabits on the screen.
@@Braddeman I am quite aware of that, biggest issue here in my country ISPs call it Megabytes or Mega, without specifying the exact type abit misleading.
I'm curious how the metal roof rack there would impact the transmission pattern of dishy. also being off axis could be a slight issue but they use a phase array system anyway, with out the motors moving the dish it's going to be Tx'ing off to a sat at totally the wrong angle. Super cool project, Thanks for sharing bud
Mounting it on my roof would not be my choice, same as my solar... that decision means you must always park in open sky AKA direct sun. Keeping it portable and easily stowed means you can park in the shade where possible and set the dish remotely where it gets signal. Question... since you are not using the starlink router, does the starlink app no longer work as well? To see connection/obstruction and network throughput / latency tracking?
I’m running the same 12v setup and router and I can tell you I hate it. I’m constantly having issue getting connected. I’ve played with boot order and timing and it just sucks. When I’ need it to work I just plug in the original setup….having said that I power it off a 24v to 115v 600w inverter. One day hopefully I get it sorted….12v saves me about 3% of power overnight vs the 24v inverter. Thanks for the video.😊
@@41Atatsiakonly if you have a router with a chip in it to be able to bring in an 4.5 ghz line off of cat 6E guarantee that router is a 1ghz router with 100mbs max
My first thought would have been that if it acts like a satellite dish, then it would need to be angled just like the motorised stand that moves the dish to locate and lock on to the signal. The speed that it is giving is much slower as it's always horizontal and not directly connected to the starlink LEO
I would be more suspicious of the 48v booster being the cause of the lower speed. I believe the one you used creates a lot of "noise" and interferes with the Ethernet. At least that's what I'm thinking for my conversion so I'm switching to a cleaner 48v booster.
7 หลายเดือนก่อน
@@dkb4x4 hi, what booster did you get in the end? Are you happy with your setup?
An informative video. Since we normally park under a ton of trees I am interested in just converting my Gen 2 dishy to 12vdc. Thanks for listing the necessary components to do that conversion.
Having just tested my Starlink in an off-grid location in Nevada for 10 days with nights down to single digits, I will be doing the power conversion. I installed only a 3000wh battery out of 6000wh for the testing. I see a huge advantage in not having to use the inverters. The only thing I would have changed is your flat mount; I would have the option to tilt it. I see some do this with the solar panels as well. I will have to play with the snow melt settings
The Everlanders did this about 3 months ago, a bit more involved, I think they also got the power draw down a little. Let's hope Starlink are watching and consider making a version that's more appropriate for mobile use without costing a fortune...
The first person that pronounced WiFi correctly. wi-fee is the correct prononunciation as it comes from Wireless (wi sound) fidelity (fee sound). Nice.
Not actually the case. From Wikipedia below (the td;lr; version) (Encyclopedia Britannica & Oxford dictionary also have references. The Cambridge dictionary gets it wrong...) "The name Wi-Fi, commercially used was coined by the brand-consulting firm Interbrand. The Wi-Fi Alliance had hired Interbrand to create a name that was "a little catchier than 'IEEE 802.11b Direct Sequence'." According to Phil Belanger, a founding member of the Wi-Fi Alliance, the term Wi-Fi was chosen from a list of ten names that Interbrand proposed. Interbrand also created the Wi-Fi logo. The yin-yang Wi-Fi logo indicates the certification of a product for interoperability. The name Wi-Fi is not short-form for 'Wireless Fidelity',[34] although the Wi-Fi Alliance did use the advertising slogan "The Standard for Wireless Fidelity" for a short time after the brand name was created...
3 amps thats a lot for somethign that will be on 24/7 ish IMO. I would be tapping into that starlink router it will have a AC to DC board dropping it down to the voltages required it will save a huge mess of POE injectors and a router keeping the setup clean. I'm willing to bet someone has already modded the router for this application. Honestly at 3A a small 50W cheap inverter would have been similar. Also that ferrite core plays a big part in keeping noise / interference down I wouldn't have smashed that off the cable you can buy clip on ones to replace it I would. Nice install the cable glands look cool I will check them out and hopefully you look into alternative ways to get a more clean setup.
Converting AC to DC will always be more inefficient than converting 12Vdc to 48vdc for POE. The CAT6 cable to dish is shielded so interference is negligible. I didn't bother replacing the ferrite bead.
I wonder if the 12v to 48v converter is significantly more efficient than a good 12v to 120v inverter. Note the heat sink fins on your converter to dissipate wasted energy.
Didn't want to cut the cords so I never went to 12 to 48 volt conversion route. Your video was really good news for me and I've ordered all the components. Thank you. The poe injector however is going to take a month to get here, apparently they're on backorder (2/5/24)
Will be interested to see if with repeated heating and cooling and rain will reveal humidity making its way into the housing and condensing on the circuit board and rendering it non-functional! Please post an update after a year of use!
A super fast way to cut the back off of your dish is to use a table saw. Mount a piece of plywood (appx. 10" X 24") to the fence of a table saw. Then adjust the fence to match the Starmount. Adjust the blade height so it's just cutting through the plastic. The actual cutting part only takes a couple minutes and leaves a smooth flat surface. No sanding required. Also, are you sure it's 3D printed? Mine was machined out of a thick piece of plastic.
Damn that’s a solid way to go, I’d be scared it catches something and just completely destroys it! I think your right it’s solid plastic and cnc routed actually
Hi, Ladi here. Great idea to do this! What speeds were you able to get on regular basis? I'm curious how well it works when flat mounted. It's motorized and finds the best angle.
Great video man, planning to work while traveling with my bike through South America and pulling energy from a small battery is crazy so power consumption is a big deal, will test it and let you know how that works out.
The problem with putting it on the roof is you can’t park in the shade in the summer. Good thing to do would make it so you can still easily pull it from the roof and move it. Just a thought though.
Super nice install, looks great! Does the plexiglass cover not interfere with the signal from the dishy? Would love to see a follow up speedtest once you get it permanently installed and running!
@@WillBilly. If it is reducing the speed and increasing latency then it does interfere with the dishy, just would like to see a before/after speedtest to see how badly it gets reduced due to the cover.
I was thinking of getting that adapter. Good to know it works. What sort of upload speeds do you get? I need at least about 7mps for video conferences.
Hola buenas tardes amigo, me encantó tu video y necesito de tu ayuda, el mío lo quiero fijar en una base en el techo de mi casa, pero quiero poner un tornillo por debajo del botón para quitarlo de la base, la pregunta es si por debajo de ese botón que extrae la antena no hay algún chip o cable que pueda llegar a dañar
Great dishy modification. The mounting effort not so much. First video I have watched that explains a direct 12V dishy mod. I wish you had shown more detail but I suppose it's documented on Oleg's page.
Plexiglass is adding attenuation of the signal so the system become more sensitive to the weather conditions unfortunately. I assume it will be good to make a frame around the dish front and seal it around. Also the connection is under the question as soon as the mobile setup means vibration need to secure it additionaly. IMHO
Why modify to flat, the starlink ajust position to to connect to satalite, if you lay it flat it will just connect on satalite derectly above it. the satalite is not stationary so you lose alot signal.
Wasn't going to comment until 8/1... but that was before I knew you were planning a networking/engineering vlog! 🤣 Satellite Dish, wireless routers, WAN, LAN, ethernet cables, RJ45 connectors... all good stuff in the tech world...👍 Voiding the warranty was a nice touch... 👍👍 Enjoyed watching the process... 👀 Enough kudos... back to work 😅... July 🧨is almost upon us...
So now that the dish can't move and locate a satellite and it's just laying flat on the roof of your van that must give you a much weaker signal I didn't even think that this would work without it being able to follow the satellite?
This is awesome. I love how sleek the setup is. Can Starlink support a "smart home" setup in a van? Can you easily stay connected 24/7 if you have power?
I think permanent fixtures are a cool concept, but the reality is that it mean you ALWAYS have to park your RV, van, etc somewhere with an ubstructed view of the sky. In all practicality, it's much better to leave the dishy as a moveable fixture that you can place somewhere away from your rv/van if you're parked in an obstructed location.
Are you sure your saving power by switching it to DC. Your now power three devices to replace one ? I would love to know if anyone has really ran the numbers on this ? You also have to spend additional money to buy the components.
Dishy on a stand, tilts at varying degrees depending my van's geo-location. On the assumption that that angling is necessary for proper function, I fail to understand how a flat mount of the V2 version works.
That Starmount is awesome - Way cheaper than what Starlink is charging. An easier way of avoiding running your main inverter to power Starlink would be to add a second smaller inverter to your house battery. Amazon sells 150 to 200 watt flat inverters with 2 wall plugs and a few USB ports for $15 to $25 dollars. The power lost just to turn them on is tiny compared to a 3000 watt inverter yet they have enough power to run Starlink, laptop, fan, CPAP, Christmas lights or charge rechargeable batteries and devices of all kinds. Your way looks like it would save a bit more power running just Starlink but the combined power savings of every plugged in thing that only needs a small inverter has to be more.
That was my original plan until I found these components! I also didn't realize the size of the Starlink router... It is huge and not easily mountable.
@@rhiantaylor3446 I just recently learned there are USB plugs for charging laptops. If Starlink and routers could also be USB powered then this opens up the exciting possibility of not living with inverter losses while working and playing on the computer. I would still want a second small inverter (just cause) but I'm starting to warm up to the dc only possibilities.
But the purpose of the video is to avoid using an inverter which incurs losses when converting direct current to alternating. Yeah, you could go with a smaller high frequency inverter but you'll still have losses. I could only see USB C working if you found a POE injector that is powered by USB C. Otherwise the solution in the video is simple enough.
Have you worked out the Ah consumption difference between your modified setup and using the original router with something like a 150W Pure Sine inverter?
how is that a stationary dish can get the best reception when the app rotates the dish correctly? do you have keep moving the van according to the app before you finally park?
I am curious if all this is required for the gen 3? I seen some 3D printed flat mounts on ebay that appear to fit the gen 3 directly. I also think the dc Converter is simpler for the gen 3 as well, but don't know. This video is one year old and the way technology changes everything may have changed by now. Comments? I'm really amazed that Star Link does not make a DC Converter at this point considering how many van life dwellers there are.
Nice video, a few months ago I used a multi tool and it cut very clean…. I made my own mount on the roof in the same spot! I had a little mini inverter that plugs in a cigarette lighter power so I don’t have to turn on the main inverter…..problem was here in nj speeds were getting so slow and prices went up I paused the service and got the t-mobile home internet for $50 a month and getting so much faster speed…. I may have to turn Starlink back on when I travel in the fall…
Love it!! I’m planning on getting t-mobile after the summer! Heard great things about it but it won’t work in Canada. It’s definitely the move for domestic eastern states!
But the Stand has 3 holes you could of Mounted Direct to the top of the Van? unless that isn't a good idea? gives you the Flexibility of changing the angle and suchlike?
I give you credit for a sleek installation. But. Do you think Starlink would have wasted their time and money on the alignment motors, the feedback and control electronics for them, all that stuff if it didn't significantly help signal strength? Also have to wonder how the dish's little brain are going to deal with never getting an optimized alignment signal back from the motherboard.
That was a very informative Video. Awesome job. I need the Star Link for my Overlander DIY Camper i am building so i can work from anywhere as well as you guys. Has the Star Link been working to your expectations?? Tha k you for the video.
I live on solar power and would love to be able to have good internet. Yes, need 12 volts or a power inverter. What is the wattage the system needs to run? Would it be ok to shut down when not in use? I hear the customer service sucks, I could not find a phone number to talk to someone, not even an email help system for customer service? I barely get phone service, AT&T tower is 15 miles away, as the crow flies, through the woods, ( do you hear me know, was not done here.) I also hear the new system they have is not very good, how much is the monthly bill on this system, how does it do in bad weather, don't need download speeds, just to be able to internet.
Another easier install would be to just mount as is, with a mounting spot for the antenna and run the cable. No cutting it and loosing warranty, downside is that it dont look as good ;)
UPDATE: After 6 months are Starlink flat mount failed us. It got condensation inside and damaged the unit.
Here’s a link to the video: th-cam.com/video/l4E2QKpdBl0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IBckg4K5pboVKcyj
Original Comment:
Thanks for watching the video!!! We really appreciate it! I will not make the “bits / bytes” mistake again haha
Also here's some more info regarding how the Starlink is performing on our Instagram reel: instagram.com/reel/Cwh_qb-o4h6/
For those who think it’s stupid to mount it flat, here’s a link describing how a phased array antenna (this is a phased array dish) wifiranger.com/how-does-starlink-work/#:~:text=As%20a%20satellite%20moves%20across,uses%20a%20%E2%80%9Cphased%20array.%E2%80%9D
Only reason I can see to tilt the antenna, is to let rain fall off. The antenna will definitely lose signal strength with any water pooling on the top, but it is flat so there wont be much.
I had a strong suspicion this was a bad idea and then saw this as the first comment.. thanks for being honest and telling people it’s not a great idea.
Would a desiccant have helped? Also how did you convert the cable to ethernet? Is that the adapter that can be purchased from starlink?
@@baliwski A desiccant would have extended the life some, but the question is how did the moisture get in to the housing in the first place. If it was because it had been raining for the 3 days during the assembly, then a desiccant pack may have been enough. If it was related to the material the housing was made of, how permiable it is, and whether there is barometric pressure change air exchanges happening that allowed the moisture in after a good (and dry) seal up, you would need to have a way to periodically replace the desiccant or have a way to heat dry it, venting the released moisture out of the housing. The comment that the housing is 3d printed doesn't give me a good feel for the housing being water tight. The Plexiglass lid very well may be, and the rubber gasket, and the glue may all have been good, but having done 3d printing for the past decade, I have a healthy respect for water's ability to infiltrate prints.
Reason: your destruction of rubber and magnets = the cable is affected by external interference
It's not a "little magnet" it's a ferrite which can improve performance in certain EMI "noisy" environments and/or reduce electromagnetic emissions of the device to bring it in compliance with FCC rules.
Great, great, informative video without "over-gabbing" or becoming redundant. Hope a lot of vanlifers get this info. I'm in a cabin in eastern Arizona on the side of a mountain, off-off grid and only have "2 bar" cell service, about 3 or 4 hours a day. Having too many issues with 110 volt so this 12 volt solution is a win win.
Thank you and travel safe.
You made me comfortable in performing my own project like this to put on my atv and snowmobile when I’m out there traveling between communities in the Arctic, thanks dude. You’re the man!
you got it! Sounds like you live in a gnarly area!
DON'T DO THE MODIFICATION U WILL REGRET IT !!!!!!!
@@jameskim62how is that?
Really good assembly, you could say it's even better than the official option since it's 12 volts
The little rubber thingy (ferrite bead) stops interference from magnetic fields in the cable if I am not mistaken.
There is also a channel called everlanders on TH-cam who have also mounted their starlink on their vehicle.
Correct. Normally, ferrite coils “choke” common mode current from coming down the coaxial cable between the antenna and receiver.
There are several YT videos on the subject covered by Amateur radio operators that are familiar with antenna theory.
Have a look at the Mikrotik Hex Poe router. Runs on DC, can output 48v via the built in POE at/af ports. So you can do away with the 12/24v converter and the injector and end up with a much better router to boot.
But that's not wireless, right?
@@JasonParkers Damn your correct, for some reason I thought they had wireless in the hex series. I normally have a AP attached so didn't really think about it.
love how clean the install is
Thank you! We’re pumped how it turned out!
Not "Mega Bytes" but Mega Bits per second. Your speed is 8 actually times slower than you stated.
You think 200 Mbps is slow?
@@TheGamingForLife1 you miss the point. You do not have "megabytes per second" download. You have mega BITS per second download. That's 8 times slower than you stated. It's still somewhat fast but nowhere near as fast as you stated.
😂 I think of us nerds knew what he meant but GJ on the lesson
I was thinking the same
@@markphillips8019I’m working in IT and I’m not dotting the I‘s and slashing the T’s as you!
The point is the comparison to his internet connection from home!
It’s the same as the electricians get mad if u mix up kWh and kW as well kwh and kw…. Etc.
In German it’s just called Klugscheisser…..
Consider, he is not an electrician nor IT guy and be thankful he is doing the effort to show how he did it!
😊
The Mbps means Megabits Per Second, for Megabytes Per Second you need to take the value speed-test shows you and divide it by 8, for example, your 20Mbps is 2.5MB/s and the 170-ish is 21.25MB/s.
thank you for pointing that out. It was indeed confusing him talking about bytes and while his screen is showing the values in bits.
Working in IT people do this all the time. You know how many times I hear gigabytes or megabytes per second instead of megabits or gigabits per second. So maybe that is why it is not confusing to me but the fact he was consistent when talking should have easily clued you in to megabits and not megabytes. Kind of like when you are reading and see their, there, and they’re used wrong it’s easy to see which one they should have used. Not a big deal especially since you can clearly see megabits on the screen.
@@Braddeman I am quite aware of that, biggest issue here in my country ISPs call it Megabytes or Mega, without specifying the exact type abit misleading.
I'm curious how the metal roof rack there would impact the transmission pattern of dishy. also being off axis could be a slight issue but they use a phase array system anyway, with out the motors moving the dish it's going to be Tx'ing off to a sat at totally the wrong angle. Super cool project, Thanks for sharing bud
Mounting it on my roof would not be my choice, same as my solar... that decision means you must always park in open sky AKA direct sun. Keeping it portable and easily stowed means you can park in the shade where possible and set the dish remotely where it gets signal.
Question... since you are not using the starlink router, does the starlink app no longer work as well? To see connection/obstruction and network throughput / latency tracking?
I’m running the same 12v setup and router and I can tell you I hate it. I’m constantly having issue getting connected. I’ve played with boot order and timing and it just sucks. When I’ need it to work I just plug in the original setup….having said that I power it off a 24v to 115v 600w inverter. One day hopefully I get it sorted….12v saves me about 3% of power overnight vs the 24v inverter. Thanks for the video.😊
One word: Crushin’ It!
Great video 🤙🏼
Isn’t that 2 words? 😂
Have you noticed a reduction in performance by being horizontal all of the time?
I would be more worried about that travel access point, it looks very cheap and it might be only 2.4ghz wifi so that's why he got such a low speed.
@@25566 2.4ghz is more than enough for this. I don't think starlink would bother with a motorized stand unless it improved performance.
2.4 ghz can produce 450 mbps, relax.
@@41Atatsiakonly if you have a router with a chip in it to be able to bring in an 4.5 ghz line off of cat 6E guarantee that router is a 1ghz router with 100mbs max
My first thought would have been that if it acts like a satellite dish, then it would need to be angled just like the motorised stand that moves the dish to locate and lock on to the signal. The speed that it is giving is much slower as it's always horizontal and not directly connected to the starlink LEO
Your "magnet" is an EMI ferrite filter. Pickup a split snap on type if you get noise glitchy service from noisy power supplies.
I appreciate that tip
Excellent video.
Thanks Patrick!!!
You should run it with the Starlink router and then your travel router to see if that’s reducing speed.
This as a network specialist was my thought. The starling router is most likely optimized for the dish.
Couldn't agree more, a comparison between both, is the only way to know for sure!
I curious about this as well
I would be more suspicious of the 48v booster being the cause of the lower speed. I believe the one you used creates a lot of "noise" and interferes with the Ethernet. At least that's what I'm thinking for my conversion so I'm switching to a cleaner 48v booster.
@@dkb4x4 hi, what booster did you get in the end? Are you happy with your setup?
An informative video. Since we normally park under a ton of trees I am interested in just converting my Gen 2 dishy to 12vdc. Thanks for listing the necessary components to do that conversion.
Having just tested my Starlink in an off-grid location in Nevada for 10 days with nights down to single digits, I will be doing the power conversion. I installed only a 3000wh battery out of 6000wh for the testing. I see a huge advantage in not having to use the inverters. The only thing I would have changed is your flat mount; I would have the option to tilt it. I see some do this with the solar panels as well. I will have to play with the snow melt settings
The Everlanders did this about 3 months ago, a bit more involved, I think they also got the power draw down a little. Let's hope Starlink are watching and consider making a version that's more appropriate for mobile use without costing a fortune...
they already have a flat mount version, but it's $$$
They do have a mobile solution, but want to charge you a fortune. Dude has to go live on Mars, and that is not cheap.
The first person that pronounced WiFi correctly. wi-fee is the correct prononunciation as it comes from Wireless (wi sound) fidelity (fee sound). Nice.
el guifi
Not actually the case. From Wikipedia below (the td;lr; version) (Encyclopedia Britannica & Oxford dictionary also have references. The Cambridge dictionary gets it wrong...)
"The name Wi-Fi, commercially used was coined by the brand-consulting firm Interbrand. The Wi-Fi Alliance had hired Interbrand to create a name that was "a little catchier than 'IEEE 802.11b Direct Sequence'." According to Phil Belanger, a founding member of the Wi-Fi Alliance, the term Wi-Fi was chosen from a list of ten names that Interbrand proposed. Interbrand also created the Wi-Fi logo. The yin-yang Wi-Fi logo indicates the certification of a product for interoperability.
The name Wi-Fi is not short-form for 'Wireless Fidelity',[34] although the Wi-Fi Alliance did use the advertising slogan "The Standard for Wireless Fidelity" for a short time after the brand name was created...
WiFuh
3 amps thats a lot for somethign that will be on 24/7 ish IMO. I would be tapping into that starlink router it will have a AC to DC board dropping it down to the voltages required it will save a huge mess of POE injectors and a router keeping the setup clean. I'm willing to bet someone has already modded the router for this application. Honestly at 3A a small 50W cheap inverter would have been similar. Also that ferrite core plays a big part in keeping noise / interference down I wouldn't have smashed that off the cable you can buy clip on ones to replace it I would. Nice install the cable glands look cool I will check them out and hopefully you look into alternative ways to get a more clean setup.
Converting AC to DC will always be more inefficient than converting 12Vdc to 48vdc for POE.
The CAT6 cable to dish is shielded so interference is negligible. I didn't bother replacing the ferrite bead.
I wonder if the 12v to 48v converter is significantly more efficient than a good 12v to 120v inverter. Note the heat sink fins on your converter to dissipate wasted energy.
Nice build, looks great. Thanks for sharing.
Didn't want to cut the cords so I never went to 12 to 48 volt conversion route. Your video was really good news for me and I've ordered all the components. Thank you. The poe injector however is going to take a month to get here, apparently they're on backorder (2/5/24)
This was an awesome video with some components I had not seen yet, thank you.
You got it thanks for watching!!!
I love the visual details.
Great job & clean.
Thank you Jeff!
Really Cool Idea and Implementation of said Idea !
Will be interested to see if with repeated heating and cooling and rain will reveal humidity making its way into the housing and condensing on the circuit board and rendering it non-functional!
Please post an update after a year of use!
well done...best walk through i have watched
Hey dude... good on you. Pleased that you had courage to do that. Not many would. And you made it look easy
ngl, when you said Wifi satelite at like 0:50 you trigered my flight or fight responds, that could not have been more wrong xD
A super fast way to cut the back off of your dish is to use a table saw. Mount a piece of plywood (appx. 10" X 24") to the fence of a table saw. Then adjust the fence to match the Starmount. Adjust the blade height so it's just cutting through the plastic. The actual cutting part only takes a couple minutes and leaves a smooth flat surface. No sanding required.
Also, are you sure it's 3D printed? Mine was machined out of a thick piece of plastic.
Damn that’s a solid way to go, I’d be scared it catches something and just completely destroys it!
I think your right it’s solid plastic and cnc routed actually
Hi, Ladi here. Great idea to do this! What speeds were you able to get on regular basis? I'm curious how well it works when flat mounted. It's motorized and finds the best angle.
It worked find when we were in Canada! I saw like 40-70mbps
Thanks for the content. Cheers from OZ
Man you are a genius, thanks!
The dishes are not meant to articulate and change its dish position?
Flat mount worked as the same?
Great video man, planning to work while traveling with my bike through South America and pulling energy from a small battery is crazy so power consumption is a big deal, will test it and let you know how that works out.
The problem with putting it on the roof is you can’t park in the shade in the summer. Good thing to do would make it so you can still easily pull it from the roof and move it. Just a thought though.
Super nice install, looks great! Does the plexiglass cover not interfere with the signal from the dishy? Would love to see a follow up speedtest once you get it permanently installed and running!
dosnt interfere but greatly reduces speed and increases latency
@@WillBilly. If it is reducing the speed and increasing latency then it does interfere with the dishy, just would like to see a before/after speedtest to see how badly it gets reduced due to the cover.
@@ThaMonkeyClaw as in the plexiglass dosnt effect it but the stationary flat mounting does. I have one, if i have a slow week ill run some tests.
Really interesting!
Thank you 😊
I was thinking of getting that adapter. Good to know it works. What sort of upload speeds do you get? I need at least about 7mps for video conferences.
That’s is awesome wish we could have done it before our van was fully built lol
One benefit to being super delayed on the van haha
Now the dish can't follow the satellites 👍😅
It doesn't. Phased array handles all that. It only moves to view the most open spot in the sky.
Hola buenas tardes amigo, me encantó tu video y necesito de tu ayuda, el mío lo quiero fijar en una base en el techo de mi casa, pero quiero poner un tornillo por debajo del botón para quitarlo de la base, la pregunta es si por debajo de ese botón que extrae la antena no hay algún chip o cable que pueda llegar a dañar
Great dishy modification. The mounting effort not so much. First video I have watched that explains a direct 12V dishy mod. I wish you had shown more detail but I suppose it's documented on Oleg's page.
Internet police here.
Mbps = Mega BITS per second.
(Internet speed)
.
MBps = Mega BYTES per second
.
8 BITS = 1 BYTE
.
😉
Ooopsies!!! 😅
How does it rotate to find the satieties if it is fixed in one position?
It doesn’t. It’s permanently compromised now.
Megabits/sec, not Megabytes/sec. 200 Mbps (megabits/sec) is approximately 22 Mbps (megabytes/sec).
Mb is Megabit, MB is MegaByte (By eight). The capitals are crucial here :)
Thanks . I think Starlink should make a customized version of this dish for vans and motor homes.
They do. It's called Starlink In-motion. It's stupidly expensive, and still requires AC power.
You can get a 12vdc Input Poe injector from tycon power 12 to 48 poe
Yes, but then you need to cut and re-crimp the Starlink CAT6 cables. Read the video title again.
This answers my question over whether to get a Mini. Which dish version are you working on? Gen3?
Plexiglass is adding attenuation of the signal so the system become more sensitive to the weather conditions unfortunately. I assume it will be good to make a frame around the dish front and seal it around. Also the connection is under the question as soon as the mobile setup means vibration need to secure it additionaly. IMHO
Why modify to flat, the starlink ajust position to to connect to satalite, if you lay it flat it will just connect on satalite derectly above it. the satalite is not stationary so you lose alot signal.
The dish is phased
Can you advise make and model details on the RV flat unit u used to mount the cut down Starlink antenna....
Thanx
Wasn't going to comment until 8/1... but that was before I knew you were planning a networking/engineering vlog! 🤣
Satellite Dish, wireless routers, WAN, LAN, ethernet cables, RJ45 connectors... all good stuff in the tech world...👍
Voiding the warranty was a nice touch... 👍👍
Enjoyed watching the process... 👀
Enough kudos... back to work 😅... July 🧨is almost upon us...
This little project was really fun, I enjoyed it! Lot of work to do in July!!!! Can't wait to start traveling again
Great video
Great video. Do you have to configure the new router before using it, like putting in a password and such? Thanks.
So now that the dish can't move and locate a satellite and it's just laying flat on the roof of your van that must give you a much weaker signal I didn't even think that this would work without it being able to follow the satellite?
It will, check out “phased array satellites”
This is awesome. I love how sleek the setup is. Can Starlink support a "smart home" setup in a van? Can you easily stay connected 24/7 if you have power?
Have you solved the issue of Wi-Fi calling not working with that router and Starlink?
Do you have a link for the feed through you used on the roof? Thanks.
I think permanent fixtures are a cool concept, but the reality is that it mean you ALWAYS have to park your RV, van, etc somewhere with an ubstructed view of the sky. In all practicality, it's much better to leave the dishy as a moveable fixture that you can place somewhere away from your rv/van if you're parked in an obstructed location.
I think it’s 100% subjective what might work best for me may not be best for you. This thing now works while driving which is pretty sweet
@@MathersOnTheMap If in-motion is your primary objective, then yes, the permanent fixture is the way to go.
Unless you have 2 dishes!!!! one fixed and the other moveable and have a switch for the router input
@@sirculito15893 That's an expensive route to go, but sure.
@@sirculito15893 obviously, this is the only way to go
Nice job!
Acabei de comprar a minha Starlink e fico feliz em saber como ela é por dentro, kkkkkk, muito bom a legenda em português, obrigado.,ja me inscrevi
Hello, I live in the village and I use solar power, my Starlink modem gets very hot, what kind of inverter do you think I should use for Starlink?
Depends on the country is cheaper or expensive the service. I tested. In NY 150 dollars if i order for dominican republica is $50 crazy ah!?
do you notice any performance trade-off for flat mounted antenna versus the original motorized tilting antenna?
Are you sure your saving power by switching it to DC. Your now power three devices to replace one ? I would love to know if anyone has really ran the numbers on this ? You also have to spend additional money to buy the components.
could someone help me understand how being flat works when the dish from factory has to use a motor to position itself im confused
Hey mike it’s because it’s a phased array antenna, just like the flat mount Starlink. 👍🏻
Really good
Shouldn’t the dish have its motors so it can move along with the satellites?
Tracking is not really required. The dish is phased. Google "Starlink In-motion"
So you can only.camp in open spaces?? What if you camp in thick bush with no sky view, mounting it is great but it limits your campimg??
Dishy on a stand, tilts at varying degrees depending my van's geo-location. On the assumption that that angling is necessary for proper function, I fail to understand how a flat mount of the V2 version works.
wow that looks very goood
Starlink. For the people that hate society but also they love society
That Starmount is awesome - Way cheaper than what Starlink is charging. An easier way of avoiding running your main inverter to power Starlink would be to add a second smaller inverter to your house battery. Amazon sells 150 to 200 watt flat inverters with 2 wall plugs and a few USB ports for $15 to $25 dollars. The power lost just to turn them on is tiny compared to a 3000 watt inverter yet they have enough power to run Starlink, laptop, fan, CPAP, Christmas lights or charge rechargeable batteries and devices of all kinds. Your way looks like it would save a bit more power running just Starlink but the combined power savings of every plugged in thing that only needs a small inverter has to be more.
That was my original plan until I found these components! I also didn't realize the size of the Starlink router... It is huge and not easily mountable.
That's a good plan for any RV, and don't turn on the big inverter unless you're cooking or running A/C, on a separate circuits of course.
@@rhiantaylor3446 I just recently learned there are USB plugs for charging laptops. If Starlink and routers could also be USB powered then this opens up the exciting possibility of not living with inverter losses while working and playing on the computer. I would still want a second small inverter (just cause) but I'm starting to warm up to the dc only possibilities.
But the purpose of the video is to avoid using an inverter which incurs losses when converting direct current to alternating. Yeah, you could go with a smaller high frequency inverter but you'll still have losses.
I could only see USB C working if you found a POE injector that is powered by USB C. Otherwise the solution in the video is simple enough.
Have you had issues with condensation at all ?
Mine stopped working
Wish i could tell you then that we will have the mini now.
Have you worked out the Ah consumption difference between your modified setup and using the original router with something like a 150W Pure Sine inverter?
how is that a stationary dish can get the best reception when the app rotates the dish correctly? do you have keep moving the van according to the app before you finally park?
with this setup do you still have to pay for starlink membership while your not using the starlink router
I am curious if all this is required for the gen 3? I seen some 3D printed flat mounts on ebay that appear to fit the gen 3 directly. I also think the dc Converter is simpler for the gen 3 as well, but don't know. This video is one year old and the way technology changes everything may have changed by now. Comments? I'm really amazed that Star Link does not make a DC Converter at this point considering how many van life dwellers there are.
Gen 3 is what we use now 👌🏻… our first one got condensation/water damage. Gen 3 is the way to go and you won’t ruin warranty
Thanks! About to order the service, so wanted to check.
Nice video, a few months ago I used a multi tool and it cut very clean….
I made my own mount on the roof in the same spot! I had a little mini inverter that plugs in a cigarette lighter power so I don’t have to turn on the main inverter…..problem was here in nj speeds were getting so slow and prices went up I paused the service and got the t-mobile home internet for $50 a month and getting so much faster speed….
I may have to turn Starlink back on when I travel in the fall…
Love it!! I’m planning on getting t-mobile after the summer! Heard great things about it but it won’t work in Canada. It’s definitely the move for domestic eastern states!
@@MathersOnTheMap yes and when I go somewhere I can always turn Starlink back on …
That’s the move!
Friend one question, where i Can buy the kit for make it?
If I wanted to use 12v power, wouldn't buying a pure sine wave inverter have been better?
But the Stand has 3 holes you could of Mounted Direct to the top of the Van? unless that isn't a good idea? gives you the Flexibility of changing the angle and suchlike?
Great video as always 🙂 Just wish the mount wasn’t so expensive 😅
You could also use 12-volt powered routers and skip the USB Power Conversion thing
The gen3 will require no cutting since it''s flat?
This same installation configuration, can I install it on a motorcycle using its own battery?
I give you credit for a sleek installation. But. Do you think Starlink would have wasted their time and money on the alignment motors, the feedback and control electronics for them, all that stuff if it didn't significantly help signal strength?
Also have to wonder how the dish's little brain are going to deal with never getting an optimized alignment signal back from the motherboard.
Thanks! it’s been working great on the road!
The dish is phased. The flat mounting is not too dissimilar to the In-motion dish which doesn't have tracking motors.
What's the power draw on this. I remember the standard is meant to be 50-75W and the performance 110-150. Similar numbers running on 12v?
I thought it needed to orientate itself towards the satellites? Doesn't this method kill that off?
That was a very informative Video. Awesome job. I need the Star Link for my Overlander DIY Camper i am building so i can work from anywhere as well as you guys. Has the Star Link been working to your expectations?? Tha k you for the video.
Thank you! Yes we've been using it non stop in Newfoundland, haven't turned it off in over a week,. Works when driving too
the ethernet adapter by starlink original is at the moment much cheaper then the thrid party stuff, they charge up to 150€ here in germany
But doesn't let you use 12V DC
I live on solar power and would love to be able to have good internet. Yes, need 12 volts or a power inverter. What is the wattage the system needs to run? Would it be ok to shut down when not in use? I hear the customer service sucks, I could not find a phone number to talk to someone, not even an email help system for customer service? I barely get phone service, AT&T tower is 15 miles away, as the crow flies, through the woods, ( do you hear me know, was not done here.) I also hear the new system they have is not very good, how much is the monthly bill on this system, how does it do in bad weather, don't need download speeds, just to be able to internet.
Another easier install would be to just mount as is, with a mounting spot for the antenna and run the cable. No cutting it and loosing warranty, downside is that it dont look as good ;)
I can't believe they built it without screws to at least take off the tripod thing
When mounted flat on the roof, the dish cannot align itself. Isn't that necessary?