I've found that a simple "I'm a technician" gets about 90% of stuff through. (I actually am a technician and fly for work all the time, sometimes with tools)
Funny thing, the macbooks all used the "pro" headphone amp past the M2(and the M1 pro), I guess they figure it's cheaper to have one SKU of headphone amp in their macs, and it's a really good one. so apple can put a killer DAC AMP in their devices, they just don't want to.
I absolutely love this channel. I'm a 25 year old just getting in to radio, this channel reminds me of the old days of youtube when it wasn't about selling you something.
That low voltage icon has nothing to do with the current sourced from your supply; it's basically a brownout notice. Get a generic 5.1V supply and wire it up to 5V and GND on the 44-pin headers and you'll be good. 5V might work through the header too, so you could just try your power bank with a chopped up USB cable and see if that works.
I had the brownout warning running a RasPi-4 on the official power supply, but with an inline usb 3 power switch. Taking the switch out of circuit solved the problem. (Must have been a pretty shitty conductor)
I used to get brownout warnings especially after connecting a little 2.5in drive to it. I just chopped a barrel connector off a 5v 3a adapter i had and soldered it right to the gpio 5v and ground pins.
This is exactly what to do - I do similar stuff with all of my pi projects (some of which are commercial products) - basically just using a 3A+ generic 5V supply through the GPIO header. It works 100% of the time. For the commercial projects, a $15 Meanwell LRS-50-5 powers the pi and a lot of other stuff just fine.
I like to use the automotive jumper battery packs and tap the 12v high amperage side, forget the USB jacks. Then use a buck converter to get your 5v and run that to the GPIO 5v header on the Pi. That will give you adjustable foolproof power. It's also nice to have a DPDT switch that will allow you to use another external 5v power source and/or 12v source that you can run through the buck converter. If the switch has a neutral position to shut off all power all the better.
Just bought a RPi 5 and already regretting it. I did not need this much but whatever. Jumping along the lines of just powering directly to 5V and GND on the pins, can I do this straight from the power bank he's using? Just cut the USB cable and feed it from the power bank to the pins? I'm currently steering away from a 12V source and bucking it down. I'm trying to make this as simple as possible.
@@saveitforparts hey for your cyber deck of you if i was you use an voltage regulator an two drill battery,s an use it than the voltage regulator put it from 18volt to the correct voltage what the board van handle an you have enough to power the cyber deck for a few hours
this is basiacally the exact kind of cyberdeck ive wanted to make since learning about them. Weather/Radio/Space/on-the-go-coding seems like the best way to get the most out of them
It is hilarious to me that you dropped this video literally right after I went and bought a Datalux computer off eBay for my own astronomy computer setup. Lol That being said, I got a newer model than you did for your old cyberdeck, I am still super excited about the all-in-one computer, and your video was extremely helpful in dealing with the power supply issue, as mine was similarly missing. I have it up and running now and just am waiting on getting a hard drive set up on it to get things installed. But I have booted it off a USB recovery drive and so far everything seems to be working!
@@saveitforparts What he meand is the discord notification noise makes us all wonder who just messaged us, so we all go check our own discord apps. LOL
That’s pretty wicked. Your channel has really become one of my favourites on this platform. As a 11m radio guy I love all the antenna projects and you’ve really inspired me to try out some of my own radio astrology. Just got my directional yagi in today and I’m going to try pulling some images off of some weather satellites with it. Cheers from Ontario 🍻
I built a little cyberdeck into my toolbox 1510 that I toured with. Ended up using it almost daily for how to videos and quick searches while I was working on equipment. Really loving this design and it is making me want to revisit mine! Love the content!
Neat piece of work. It certainly puts Mk.1 to shame. That Pi will soon start throttling under load, without a heat sink. Go and have a look in your heat sink shed. 😁
Glad to see that the case passed inspection by the cat. (: Make sure to add a Mestastic module so you can inconveniently text other nerds at Open Sauce
THIS IS SICK, really i've seen people building decks and none of them look as good, and have MANY more qualities and functions than yours, you are a genius man, i always watch your satellite related videos and im very happy to have come across your channel, keep it up!
If there was a commercially version of this but then for the steamdeck, that would be awesome! Extra battery, strong robust case and a keyboard or maybe some other cool additional features.
I resisted clicking on videos from your channel for months because of the name. I don't have great storage and I have done a lot to resist my urge to hang on to parts over the past several years. Channel is great and I'm now resisting the urge to resist the urge to scavenge. Thanks for the endless fascination!
FYI the RPI5 actually addresses the issues with the power on the USB. You can override the need for the special power brick from them and tell the device to draw up to about 27 or so amps of power for usb stuff. When I first got my PI5 I was a miffed like you were about having to buy a power brick from them but then I found out about the override that you can set. I normally plug mine into a laptop charger that uses usbC so it provides more then enough power for any usb devices i may hook up to it. Its also much faster then the 4 so it makes it a bit more useful. I have always had issues with SDR hardware and the RPI becaue of the power issues. Im sure you used the 4 because you had it on hand and also the 5 is a bit more expensive so it kinda defeats the point of repurposing things :)
Last year I build a crossband repeater enclosed in a Magnavox 6LE CATV line extender aluminum casing. A TYT UV8000 With a small agm battery and solar controler inside. AGM to work in -40f/c winter conditions. I had fun to build it and make it fit. I used the belt clip screws to fix a copper plate on the radio, the copper plate being screwed in the aluminum case. Connector ports fits with the UHF SO239 threads and also the DIN connectors outside threads. On one side I Just put an PL259 antenna right on it or use a cable for a higher antenna in a tree.. The 4 pins DIN is for external battery and solar panel connection. Base Camp's Tx is UHF and mobiles TX is VHF. Really good coverage when I put the repeater on top of the highest mountain.
Turn your part cooling fan off for the first layer and let it ramp to 100% by layer 10. That'll help with your warping issue. You could also try bumping your z offset negative by one click which will make it squish a bit more and stick better.
I use a portable camping power bank to power raspberry pi 4b just fine. It'll run for days non-stop. I got it in the camping section of Walmart. It even has a solar panel on one side to charge by solar.
Those form factors of PC were in all the computer magazines when I was a kid, and I really wanted one! Great build, and looking forward to seeing the finished build.
I'm always astonished by how similar in thinking we are. Unnoticed about your project, yesterday I just finished mine, but it's for controlling UAVs instead of hacking satellites (which is something I find super nice, BTW). I did my fair share of sat hacking as well and could easily build one like this someday. Anyway, it's looking pretty nice, you owned this one, gz!
Just a note - this might help regarding the rPI situation. As a long time user, I thought I'd share. - Raspberry Pi does not use a proprietary power supply. Instead, it uses standard power connectors depending on the model. Here are the details for different models: --- Raspberry Pi 4 Model B: Uses a USB-C connector for power, requiring a 5V 3A power supply. --- Raspberry Pi 3 Model B and B+: Uses a micro-USB connector for power, requiring a 5V 2.5A power supply. --- Raspberry Pi Zero and Zero W: Also use a micro-USB connector for power, requiring a 5V 1.2A power supply. --- These connectors are widely available and not proprietary to the Raspberry Pi.
Awesome project! For your 3D printer woes, I'd suggest the following: To minimize/stop "3d printer cancer", make sure your filament is clean by using the little spongy filter, beware of any other potential contanimants like oil from your hands during the printing. This includes (especially) the bed itself - use isopropyl alchol. For the warping, don't try to lift the project too soon after the printing is complete. Guessing the bending took place while extracting the part from the bed.
Very nice work on the new cyber deck! Was thinking about something for when my newborn was a little older that incorporates snap circuits with a custom scratch programming module. Glad to see you are going to open sauce! Hope its a blast!
Hey bud, been 3D printing for quite a while. If you don't already have one, i'd buy a whambam thermal enclosure/tent for your particular 3D printer. Or at least one big enough to fit its dimensions. Some of your parts are bending up because theyre cooling faster in places and causing stress/tension to build up in the material. Close it up, or even just take a cardboard box and coat the inside of it with something like a reflective/thermal insulating material (like those grocery store 'cold' bags that are supposed to keep the icecream cold on the way home). Or... a box with at least a couple layers of tinfoil over it. That should at least be enough to keep the heat around your prints while theyre printing, and stop some of that heat loss. Once I did that, my 3D print warping almost completely dissapeared. The last printer I bought, I made sure it was one with an enclosure and everything. After I enclosed my prints, and also started a printing a lot of my parts in ABS-GF, warping is near-zero. I haven't had warping at all for a while, and If i do its so slight that I cant tell. That ABS with glass fiber fill is amazing. Plus its awesome at withstanding higher temps too (when I need a printed part to be exposed to like... the temps near and around an automobile engine lol..) Much love and AWEsome video/project.. i'll be checking your channel for any other projects I might be interested in doing myself!
a little tip that might help with your 3d printer bed adhesion: for large surfaces like that, it does happen that sometimes the bottom layers peel up. Try putting masking tape over the bed and then a layer of stick glue and that should help quite a bit
I built a PI4 cyberdeck into an armored box as well, I had power issues as well until I got my own cable ends and put larger 18 gauge wires in it that could carry the amps, Im using a 24,000ma power bank and it powers the pi, a 7" monitor, keyboard for about 10 hours with stellerairium running. It did get hot as well, some fans were added. Oh I can also run my SDRplay for about 8 hours with moderate volume.
If you print the first 5-10 layers at an extremely slow rate (i.e. ~10mm/sec), it will reduce/stop the print "lifting" off the bed. Other easy solutions are using a BuildTak surface with a heated bed, or the cheapest way is to just use a simple glue stick (like what you used in Elementary school) thought you will need to clean your print bed with rubbing alcohol between each print to get the best adhesion. Part of the issue in my experience (mainly with smaller prints) is that the previous layer has not finished cooling before the nozzle comes back around to do the next layer. I sometimes will go as slow as 10mm/sec for the first 5-10 layers (or 1mm of print height depending on how I am feeling) if my printer is fighting me and my print keeps peeling off. Most slicers have settings that allow you to define different print speeds for bottom/top layers, so you might see some benefit there. Love the project! It turned out looking very professional and amazing, I always love watching your videos. Great job!
if you add a brim in your print settings, that /can/ help reduce the issue with prints losing adhesion in a corner. When i'm printing something with a square edge I'll usually add a brim and put some glue stick on the bed. I've also found that 210c for the extruder and 60c for the bed can help keep PLA prints from warping like that.
The Osborne One was my first computer and the level of nostalgia I’m currently experiencing is off the charts! Now I’ve got a whole new project. Thanks 😂😂😂 And then I got to the end with Ku-band images and I have now fallen down a new rabbit hole. Thanks AGAIN 😂😂😂😂
You see, this is why I subscribed; An intelligent man making useful gadgets out of garbage, like MacGyver. Wish I could come to OpenSauce, but you bet I'll be watching coverage of it! Keep up the great work!
If you got a flatbed scanner large enough just put it on that together with a ruler for image-calibration. No need to close the scanner-lid. Works like a charm!
Completely understand your frustration with the Pi4 power issue. Last one I had did the same thing. Got so ticked off..it's in a landfill somewhere now. Highly doubt I'll ever buy any more Pi stuff. Mini computers and SBCs have come a long way and we don't need to put up with that nonsense anymore.
I really love the luggable form factor. we had a win95 box, Dad brought home a Compaq luggable for me to play with (not the OG one, was a low spec 286). It had a 720k floppy drive, so I had no way to get data into it other than the keyboard. Pre-internet, but I did have a big stack of manuals for various things. I got basic running on it, Printer output, even serial comms to our main pc. many weekends of useless nerdery infront of its plasma display. I think the NERD co-processor just comes pre-installed in some of us squishies. Later, in highschool, I found a 4" amber CRT, and built it into a tower Luggable. Hercules graphics, 386, dos 6.11 with network support, as pimped out as I could make it. I wish I knew where that screen was, Im pretty sure now I could make it do actual graphics, but it was Text only. I still managed to get it on the internet, have multiplayer deathmatch games, CAD software, play music. It was sick. I need another luggable. I have Ideas. (and those are dangerous). It involves a 4"CRT color tv (totally useless without analogue transmission) and a Pi. Have HEAPS of fun at OpenSauce, Wish I was there.
You can connect the USB hubs and everything else directly to the 5 volts. That's what I did with my Pi 4, works perfectly, stable 5 volts everywhere. I use a PicoPSU. And it is running from an SSD, much better than SD cards in my opinion.
I have watched a lot of your videos recently and I gotta say by far this is the coolest. You really went all out on making this thing super fancy and convenient for you... and it has a headphone jack!
For those 3d printed lids, I would make sure your bed is leveled, sometimes the level can get messed up between prints also I would print inside an enclosure. The hot air in the enclosure will help with layer adhesion.
Very cool project. Looks sealed pretty well. I might be tempted to have a small server fan in the face. I once made a pretty wooden cabinet for my router at home to hide it. I ended up modifying it for some ventilation after realizing how hot it got after a day of use.
3D printer advice: PLA is the easiest plastic to print and good enough for most use cases, and Elmer's glue stick is fantastic at preventing parts from lifting off the bed 3D Design advice: For the walls of printed boxes, 2 or 3 millimeters is all you really need for strength
The laser cut panel and storage boxes really gives it a clean appearance; nice execution! FWIW, when I design/print brackets like the right angle ones you made, whenever possible I model a hex into them to capture common nuts like you used and keep fairly tight tolerances in the model so the nuts have a slight press fit. If you need to get the nut back out, you can partially thread a bolt into the nut and use the bolt to push it back out. Otherwise if size constraints are too small, heat set threaded inserts from Amazon work good.
For the issue you are having with the 3D printing. My guess is that the hot-bed isn't hot enough, so it cools down and the piece lifts. Some tips: Make the bed a bit hotter. Spray just a bit of hair spray on the bed before printing (If it's too stuck at the end, just pour a bit of water+alcohol around the print once it's done, or let it cool down). On the slicer software, add a "skirt" at 0 distance from the piece.
Try USB 2.0 cable for Raspberry Pi 4B if didn't work when plugged it into a more modern USB host port. The cable should be rated at data transfer rate 480Mbps. Make sure it's from brands with reputation. I used Scosche Strikeline USB 2.0 cable, some USB power sources previously failed to power the Pi 4B now work properly, as it forces the port to follow 2.0 specs instead of 3.0 or PD. However, some people say later batches of Pi 4B do not have the issue, they can actually take advantage of PD.
This is way too well put-together and organized. This does not live down to the traditional SIFP standards. But it'll be interesting to see how it survives San Fran.
A very nice cyberdeck, and the supervisor checked everything, so it can only turn out well. Oh my God, the ducklings are so cute. Now all that's missing is a Cybertruck to round it all off.
Awsome project. Tip: Those "studs" in the lid are not from the manufacturing process but mounting points to attach stuff with self-tapping screws for example.
How to get unusual stuff through security: don't elaborate. TSA: What's that weird thing in that weird box? You: A computer. TSA: Go ahead.
Underrated comment. Bro's too smart for his own good, and says anything about hacking satellites- he's about to have every orifice microscoped 😂😂😂
I've found that a simple "I'm a technician" gets about 90% of stuff through. (I actually am a technician and fly for work all the time, sometimes with tools)
The fact that your cyber deck has a headphone jack makes it 10x better than all new mobile tech.
Funny thing, the macbooks all used the "pro" headphone amp past the M2(and the M1 pro), I guess they figure it's cheaper to have one SKU of headphone amp in their macs, and it's a really good one.
so apple can put a killer DAC AMP in their devices, they just don't want to.
Haha!!! This is not debatable...fact! Love it! ❤
And a user replaceable battery!
And it is not held together with glue and tape. Most consumer grade stuff (especially mobile devices) is just plain garbage.
My choice of phone is still dictated by those that have headphone jacks. Bluetooth can go and jump in a lake.
I absolutely love this channel. I'm a 25 year old just getting in to radio, this channel reminds me of the old days of youtube when it wasn't about selling you something.
look for AIED
yeah i agree 👍🏽
Only a matter of time 🤣😭
Love this channel, but the system kills all things.
Well said. Amazing content!
yeah except this is kind of just nonsense, im legally not allowed to elaborate
I think you built the perfect cyberdeck this time
Minus the wobbly keyboard, but that should be an easy fix.
1:15 "I have been collecting **parts** and pieces"
Abraham Lincoln of satellite hacking. hehe
FYI McMaster Carr has 2D and 3d models of just about everything they sell, all free for download on the product's page
I was going to comment this exact thing, it’s so handy!
do they sell metric stuff though?
Also there’s a plugin for fusion 360 that imports everything from McMaster Carr
@@olik136 Just about any size and type you need.
I expected to see a mention of how fast that website is.
I absolutely love that for so many cyberdeck videos, the ultimate test is TSA.
That low voltage icon has nothing to do with the current sourced from your supply; it's basically a brownout notice. Get a generic 5.1V supply and wire it up to 5V and GND on the 44-pin headers and you'll be good. 5V might work through the header too, so you could just try your power bank with a chopped up USB cable and see if that works.
I had the brownout warning running a RasPi-4 on the official power supply, but with an inline usb 3 power switch. Taking the switch out of circuit solved the problem. (Must have been a pretty shitty conductor)
I used to get brownout warnings especially after connecting a little 2.5in drive to it. I just chopped a barrel connector off a 5v 3a adapter i had and soldered it right to the gpio 5v and ground pins.
This is exactly what to do - I do similar stuff with all of my pi projects (some of which are commercial products) - basically just using a 3A+ generic 5V supply through the GPIO header. It works 100% of the time. For the commercial projects, a $15 Meanwell LRS-50-5 powers the pi and a lot of other stuff just fine.
I like to use the automotive jumper battery packs and tap the 12v high amperage side, forget the USB jacks. Then use a buck converter to get your 5v and run that to the GPIO 5v header on the Pi. That will give you adjustable foolproof power. It's also nice to have a DPDT switch that will allow you to use another external 5v power source and/or 12v source that you can run through the buck converter. If the switch has a neutral position to shut off all power all the better.
Just bought a RPi 5 and already regretting it. I did not need this much but whatever. Jumping along the lines of just powering directly to 5V and GND on the pins, can I do this straight from the power bank he's using? Just cut the USB cable and feed it from the power bank to the pins? I'm currently steering away from a 12V source and bucking it down. I'm trying to make this as simple as possible.
I like how these capture the feel of early 1980's 'luggable' computers. Looks very James Cameron.
Open Sauce should be a very active RF environment to scan and map in.
I know/understand very little that's showcased on this channel, but I love watching it. The design/ingenuity is amazing.
I'm stealing this idea for a future project. I knew about the old portable computers, but I had no idea that there was a perfect case to make my own.
I'm glad you showed the ducklings, I was going crazy trying to figure out why your 3D printer was sounding so strange 😂
Long live the Cyberduck 🦆 (also, before it goes live: the mentioned Github URL is missing from the description)
Ope! Thanks, I'll update that.
@@saveitforparts hey for your cyber deck of you if i was you use an voltage regulator an two drill battery,s an use it than the voltage regulator put it from 18volt to the correct voltage what the board van handle an you have enough to power the cyber deck for a few hours
Wow, from v1 to v2, this is impressive
this is basiacally the exact kind of cyberdeck ive wanted to make since learning about them. Weather/Radio/Space/on-the-go-coding seems like the best way to get the most out of them
Gabe is getting even more like aging wheels.
Noisy Birds, cool stuff etc
Love your videos gabe!
It is hilarious to me that you dropped this video literally right after I went and bought a Datalux computer off eBay for my own astronomy computer setup. Lol
That being said, I got a newer model than you did for your old cyberdeck, I am still super excited about the all-in-one computer, and your video was extremely helpful in dealing with the power supply issue, as mine was similarly missing. I have it up and running now and just am waiting on getting a hard drive set up on it to get things installed. But I have booted it off a USB recovery drive and so far everything seems to be working!
Makes me think of a C64 SX. I loved that thing.
7:11 that Discord Bloop had me checking all of the things 🤣
I just started using it for the convention, I'll start a channel or something when I have time :-D
@@saveitforpartsthat would be awesome!
Was just going to ask, is there an saveitforparts discord.
@@saveitforparts What he meand is the discord notification noise makes us all wonder who just messaged us, so we all go check our own discord apps. LOL
@@saveitforparts Let me know when, I can't wait to join!
That’s pretty wicked. Your channel has really become one of my favourites on this platform. As a 11m radio guy I love all the antenna projects and you’ve really inspired me to try out some of my own radio astrology. Just got my directional yagi in today and I’m going to try pulling some images off of some weather satellites with it. Cheers from Ontario 🍻
I built a little cyberdeck into my toolbox 1510 that I toured with. Ended up using it almost daily for how to videos and quick searches while I was working on equipment. Really loving this design and it is making me want to revisit mine! Love the content!
This is incredible, truly a masterpiece, love the red and black color scheme too. Looking forward to more videos with it!
Neat piece of work. It certainly puts Mk.1 to shame.
That Pi will soon start throttling under load, without a heat sink. Go and have a look in your heat sink shed. 😁
Glad to see that the case passed inspection by the cat. (:
Make sure to add a Mestastic module so you can inconveniently text other nerds at Open Sauce
THIS IS SICK, really i've seen people building decks and none of them look as good, and have MANY more qualities and functions than yours, you are a genius man, i always watch your satellite related videos and im very happy to have come across your channel, keep it up!
If there was a commercially version of this but then for the steamdeck, that would be awesome!
Extra battery, strong robust case and a keyboard or maybe some other cool additional features.
the duckling asmr in the background just completes the ambiance, should have more videos with it in the background. have fun at opensauce
I resisted clicking on videos from your channel for months because of the name. I don't have great storage and I have done a lot to resist my urge to hang on to parts over the past several years. Channel is great and I'm now resisting the urge to resist the urge to scavenge. Thanks for the endless fascination!
Pleased to see that the ducks made their way into the video. Looks bigger than I thought it would be
FYI the RPI5 actually addresses the issues with the power on the USB. You can override the need for the special power brick from them and tell the device to draw up to about 27 or so amps of power for usb stuff. When I first got my PI5 I was a miffed like you were about having to buy a power brick from them but then I found out about the override that you can set. I normally plug mine into a laptop charger that uses usbC so it provides more then enough power for any usb devices i may hook up to it. Its also much faster then the 4 so it makes it a bit more useful. I have always had issues with SDR hardware and the RPI becaue of the power issues. Im sure you used the 4 because you had it on hand and also the 5 is a bit more expensive so it kinda defeats the point of repurposing things :)
Last year I build a crossband repeater enclosed in a Magnavox 6LE CATV line extender aluminum casing.
A TYT UV8000 With a small agm battery and solar controler inside. AGM to work in -40f/c winter conditions.
I had fun to build it and make it fit. I used the belt clip screws to fix a copper plate on the radio, the copper plate being screwed in the aluminum case.
Connector ports fits with the UHF SO239 threads and also the DIN connectors outside threads.
On one side I Just put an PL259 antenna right on it or use a cable for a higher antenna in a tree..
The 4 pins DIN is for external battery and solar panel connection.
Base Camp's Tx is UHF and mobiles TX is VHF. Really good coverage when I put the repeater on top of the highest mountain.
Nice! I have some radio stuff around that I need to use more often, I have a technician license but never have time to get on the air.
You took CAD to a new level with the lazer cutter... I might have to steal your idea there when i get one.
Turn your part cooling fan off for the first layer and let it ramp to 100% by layer 10. That'll help with your warping issue. You could also try bumping your z offset negative by one click which will make it squish a bit more and stick better.
Thanks for the dissolved transition that put everthing together thanks ❤
This has to be one of the best uses of a Pelican case.
Continually impressed with your projects! Awesome video, love the new case!
I use a portable camping power bank to power raspberry pi 4b just fine. It'll run for days non-stop. I got it in the camping section of Walmart. It even has a solar panel on one side to charge by solar.
Wow, you could keep an actual pelican in that big case. I didn't even know they made 'em that big.
A very cool project.
There's enough space in there to use a mini itx mother board and have more flexibility with power supplies and more computing power.
Those form factors of PC were in all the computer magazines when I was a kid, and I really wanted one! Great build, and looking forward to seeing the finished build.
It has a classic 80s vibe. Nice work, looks better than your other one for sure.
I'm always astonished by how similar in thinking we are. Unnoticed about your project, yesterday I just finished mine, but it's for controlling UAVs instead of hacking satellites (which is something I find super nice, BTW). I did my fair share of sat hacking as well and could easily build one like this someday. Anyway, it's looking pretty nice, you owned this one, gz!
3d printer cancer is a crazy accurate description
Just a note - this might help regarding the rPI situation. As a long time user, I thought I'd share.
- Raspberry Pi does not use a proprietary power supply. Instead, it uses standard power connectors depending on the model. Here are the details for different models:
--- Raspberry Pi 4 Model B: Uses a USB-C connector for power, requiring a 5V 3A power supply.
--- Raspberry Pi 3 Model B and B+: Uses a micro-USB connector for power, requiring a 5V 2.5A power supply.
--- Raspberry Pi Zero and Zero W: Also use a micro-USB connector for power, requiring a 5V 1.2A power supply.
--- These connectors are widely available and not proprietary to the Raspberry Pi.
I love it! Didn't think it'd be so easy to make one of these.
I’ve never heard of this but this is one of the coolest videos I’ve seen in recent memory.
No clue what the hell any of what I just watched meant. But had me hooked all the way through.
thats my favorite video from this channel, good luck on opensauce!
cyberdecks are such a rad concept.
now you should put arch on it.
I've been wanting to make a cyber deck for a while and you started that journey thanks for your content
Awesome project! For your 3D printer woes, I'd suggest the following:
To minimize/stop "3d printer cancer", make sure your filament is clean by using the little spongy filter, beware of any other potential contanimants like oil from your hands during the printing. This includes (especially) the bed itself - use isopropyl alchol.
For the warping, don't try to lift the project too soon after the printing is complete. Guessing the bending took place while extracting the part from the bed.
The fact that it looks like a 90's oscilloscope and 2030's scifi hacking gear at the same time
Cool build! My brother in law used to have an old luggable 386 that he used to program radios. It was a neat little unit.
Very nice work on the new cyber deck! Was thinking about something for when my newborn was a little older that incorporates snap circuits with a custom scratch programming module. Glad to see you are going to open sauce! Hope its a blast!
Hey bud, been 3D printing for quite a while. If you don't already have one, i'd buy a whambam thermal enclosure/tent for your particular 3D printer. Or at least one big enough to fit its dimensions. Some of your parts are bending up because theyre cooling faster in places and causing stress/tension to build up in the material. Close it up, or even just take a cardboard box and coat the inside of it with something like a reflective/thermal insulating material (like those grocery store 'cold' bags that are supposed to keep the icecream cold on the way home). Or... a box with at least a couple layers of tinfoil over it. That should at least be enough to keep the heat around your prints while theyre printing, and stop some of that heat loss. Once I did that, my 3D print warping almost completely dissapeared. The last printer I bought, I made sure it was one with an enclosure and everything.
After I enclosed my prints, and also started a printing a lot of my parts in ABS-GF, warping is near-zero. I haven't had warping at all for a while, and If i do its so slight that I cant tell. That ABS with glass fiber fill is amazing. Plus its awesome at withstanding higher temps too (when I need a printed part to be exposed to like... the temps near and around an automobile engine lol..)
Much love and AWEsome video/project.. i'll be checking your channel for any other projects I might be interested in doing myself!
a little tip that might help with your 3d printer bed adhesion: for large surfaces like that, it does happen that sometimes the bottom layers peel up. Try putting masking tape over the bed and then a layer of stick glue and that should help quite a bit
I built a PI4 cyberdeck into an armored box as well, I had power issues as well until I got my own cable ends and put larger 18 gauge wires in it that could carry the amps, Im using a 24,000ma power bank and it powers the pi, a 7" monitor, keyboard for about 10 hours with stellerairium running. It did get hot as well, some fans were added. Oh I can also run my SDRplay for about 8 hours with moderate volume.
The best trick to get accurate outlines, especially for small parts is to put them on a flat bed document scanner with a ruler.
If you print the first 5-10 layers at an extremely slow rate (i.e. ~10mm/sec), it will reduce/stop the print "lifting" off the bed. Other easy solutions are using a BuildTak surface with a heated bed, or the cheapest way is to just use a simple glue stick (like what you used in Elementary school) thought you will need to clean your print bed with rubbing alcohol between each print to get the best adhesion.
Part of the issue in my experience (mainly with smaller prints) is that the previous layer has not finished cooling before the nozzle comes back around to do the next layer. I sometimes will go as slow as 10mm/sec for the first 5-10 layers (or 1mm of print height depending on how I am feeling) if my printer is fighting me and my print keeps peeling off. Most slicers have settings that allow you to define different print speeds for bottom/top layers, so you might see some benefit there.
Love the project! It turned out looking very professional and amazing, I always love watching your videos. Great job!
if you add a brim in your print settings, that /can/ help reduce the issue with prints losing adhesion in a corner. When i'm printing something with a square edge I'll usually add a brim and put some glue stick on the bed.
I've also found that 210c for the extruder and 60c for the bed can help keep PLA prints from warping like that.
Great throwback to the luggables. I want one of these!
The Osborne One was my first computer and the level of nostalgia I’m currently experiencing is off the charts!
Now I’ve got a whole new project. Thanks 😂😂😂
And then I got to the end with Ku-band images and I have now fallen down a new rabbit hole. Thanks AGAIN 😂😂😂😂
I actually have an Osborne video I'm working on soon, once I get the capacitors replaced!
I love you keep the FUN in DIY!! Keep doing what makes you happy - we like the authenticity of it!
You see, this is why I subscribed; An intelligent man making useful gadgets out of garbage, like MacGyver. Wish I could come to OpenSauce, but you bet I'll be watching coverage of it! Keep up the great work!
This one looks really cool! You did a great job on aesthetics, and the raspi has enough juice to actually be useful, too.
If you got a flatbed scanner large enough just put it on that together with a ruler for image-calibration. No need to close the scanner-lid. Works like a charm!
Man, you're one intelligent human being. I love your channel. Thanks man for sharing your hobby and brain power.
Completely understand your frustration with the Pi4 power issue. Last one I had did the same thing. Got so ticked off..it's in a landfill somewhere now. Highly doubt I'll ever buy any more Pi stuff. Mini computers and SBCs have come a long way and we don't need to put up with that nonsense anymore.
TH-cam needs a “Love” for this. Awesome project! Might want to also think of active cooling in the enclosure.
I really love the luggable form factor. we had a win95 box, Dad brought home a Compaq luggable for me to play with (not the OG one, was a low spec 286). It had a 720k floppy drive, so I had no way to get data into it other than the keyboard. Pre-internet, but I did have a big stack of manuals for various things. I got basic running on it, Printer output, even serial comms to our main pc. many weekends of useless nerdery infront of its plasma display. I think the NERD co-processor just comes pre-installed in some of us squishies.
Later, in highschool, I found a 4" amber CRT, and built it into a tower Luggable. Hercules graphics, 386, dos 6.11 with network support, as pimped out as I could make it. I wish I knew where that screen was, Im pretty sure now I could make it do actual graphics, but it was Text only. I still managed to get it on the internet, have multiplayer deathmatch games, CAD software, play music. It was sick.
I need another luggable. I have Ideas. (and those are dangerous). It involves a 4"CRT color tv (totally useless without analogue transmission) and a Pi.
Have HEAPS of fun at OpenSauce, Wish I was there.
You can connect the USB hubs and everything else directly to the 5 volts. That's what I did with my Pi 4, works perfectly, stable 5 volts everywhere. I use a PicoPSU. And it is running from an SSD, much better than SD cards in my opinion.
I have watched a lot of your videos recently and I gotta say by far this is the coolest. You really went all out on making this thing super fancy and convenient for you... and it has a headphone jack!
You built what i was daydreaming about building! But mine had a pull out flat screen that folded upward
I thought about a flatscreen like that, maybe for version 3.0!
For those 3d printed lids, I would make sure your bed is leveled, sometimes the level can get messed up between prints also I would print inside an enclosure. The hot air in the enclosure will help with layer adhesion.
Awesome Stuff Man, Great Job! Also it looks like your Microwave Scan is picking up A LOT of UAP Traffic! lol
Great project Jack Black 😎👍🏽
Very cool project. Looks sealed pretty well. I might be tempted to have a small server fan in the face. I once made a pretty wooden cabinet for my router at home to hide it. I ended up modifying it for some ventilation after realizing how hot it got after a day of use.
3D printer advice: PLA is the easiest plastic to print and good enough for most use cases, and Elmer's glue stick is fantastic at preventing parts from lifting off the bed
3D Design advice: For the walls of printed boxes, 2 or 3 millimeters is all you really need for strength
Who needs a work bench, when you can use the floor.
That's awesome, always a fan of your work . Hopefully will make something like this myself if possible 😅
The laser cut panel and storage boxes really gives it a clean appearance; nice execution! FWIW, when I design/print brackets like the right angle ones you made, whenever possible I model a hex into them to capture common nuts like you used and keep fairly tight tolerances in the model so the nuts have a slight press fit. If you need to get the nut back out, you can partially thread a bolt into the nut and use the bolt to push it back out. Otherwise if size constraints are too small, heat set threaded inserts from Amazon work good.
This deck is so freaking dope, looks great 👍🏼
For the issue you are having with the 3D printing. My guess is that the hot-bed isn't hot enough, so it cools down and the piece lifts. Some tips: Make the bed a bit hotter. Spray just a bit of hair spray on the bed before printing (If it's too stuck at the end, just pour a bit of water+alcohol around the print once it's done, or let it cool down). On the slicer software, add a "skirt" at 0 distance from the piece.
Talk about a thumbnail and a title you can't resist...
Got me 😅
my god man cad "computer aided design" and cad "cardboard aided design" in the same video Ground braking! jk jk great video as always!
Try USB 2.0 cable for Raspberry Pi 4B if didn't work when plugged it into a more modern USB host port. The cable should be rated at data transfer rate 480Mbps. Make sure it's from brands with reputation. I used Scosche Strikeline USB 2.0 cable, some USB power sources previously failed to power the Pi 4B now work properly, as it forces the port to follow 2.0 specs instead of 3.0 or PD. However, some people say later batches of Pi 4B do not have the issue, they can actually take advantage of PD.
I don’t know what this is but it’s badass.
Never heard of a cyberdeck till this video...I have to build one ASAP. Very cool project sir!!
That is so cool. It reminds me of those amateur radio "shack in a box" things. Also the ducks are really cute!
This is way too well put-together and organized. This does not live down to the traditional SIFP standards.
But it'll be interesting to see how it survives San Fran.
bro this gives me 2012 vibe bro!
You're projects are always super interesting and so well done, thank you for sharing.
This will be old-world tech found in a bunker somewhere.
A very nice cyberdeck, and the supervisor checked everything, so it can only turn out well. Oh my God, the ducklings are so cute.
Now all that's missing is a Cybertruck to round it all off.
Awsome project. Tip: Those "studs" in the lid are not from the manufacturing process but mounting points to attach stuff with self-tapping screws for example.
thank you for uploading, a pleasure to watch as always! :D
I hope Adam Savage sees this build. I'd imagine he'd appreciate it in an entirely more aesthetic avenue.
I'm always jaw dropped at the projects you scare up. Very cool stuff.
Super cool! You need an LTE antenna so you can have internet just about anywhere.