A nice and good review. I understand your senario. But for me personally, my bluetti 600 watt mini solar generator was only 198.00 vs the 150ish on the DC converter. For very little more and being very simple minded, and having a UPS ability, I would still stay with the simplicty of my mini solar generator. But, again, you did a great job in the review. I am sure it will help many people.
Recommend putting some furring strips of wood (1x1 or 1x2) screwed to the floor and then mounting the DishyNOAC on top of that to get it up off the floor. You have PEX water lines right there behind the DishyNOAC unit and if there's a leak, your device gets wet. Either that or pick another location all together. I did this for my 3rd party router my SL is running through as it sits on the floor in a space under my furnace where my shower drain line runs through. I get that your camper is tiny and maybe there isn't any other location that would work. That DishyNOAC is slick though.. I used separate DC-DC converter and a POE injector.
Since a DishyNoAC steps up DC voltage, that process is typically convert input DC to AC, boost voltage with a transformer, and rectify the now higher AC back to DC. IE, the same process as a common 12V inverter except at several times the cost.
The packaging for DC to DC converters is much smaller and the electronics are typically more efficient than your average AC to DC power adapter that comes with Starlink. Just look at the size of the Gen 3 power supply vs DishyNOAC. Sure there is the extra cost, but you also gain the feature of not needing an AC power source, and overall power savings because the device is more efficient than the Gen 3 power supply.
Great video. Thank you for posting. The DishyNOAC looks very similar to a few other units on the market (on Amazon). My suspicion is they are all the same manufacturer, board and enclosure with different brand labeling. How hot does the DishyNOAC enclosure get? I saw a report on the Starlink on Boats FB group where a very similar (if not the same) unit burned a hole in the encloser and almost started a fire on a sailboat.
Thank you for your observation. We have specified entirely different components in manufacturing and collaborated closely with the manufacturer to deliver a product far superior to others that may appear similar. Our case material is specifically selected for its heat-resistant properties, and the internal heat sink is sized to match the unit. The case itself has additional vents and built-in feet to facilitate air circulation. Each unit is thoroughly tested before dispatch and comes with a unique serial number, allowing it to be traced back to its original batch and bench testing.
I don't understand that if the router powers the dish through POE, why you need to hook up the router 2 dish through the DishyNOAC. Wouldn't it just work if you would power only the router with the DishyNOAC and let the router power the dish? If you keep on using the original router.
That's one method, yes. The DishyNOAC, however, is set up for being able to use any router, not the Starlink one. They also designed it to be compatible with Gen 2 as well, which doesn't have the same option of just supplying the router with 56V DC like you can with Gen 3. The DishyNOAC also doesn't have DC output terminals to power the router, it just has POE through the Ethernet cable that goes to the dish.
@@StarlinkHardware I am confused as well. If the NOAC will create POE and supply the dish, and so will the Starlink router, why use POE. It looks like you powered the Starlink router with 12vdc, if you can connect it to 12vdc, what is the purpose of the NOAC unless you are using a different router.
I just bought a 1500 watt Dc power converter off of Amazon that converts 10-60vdc to anything up to 90vdcI believe from another TH-camr that uses his in Africa. Also simple and I think only cost me $25. But this seems a bit easier.
But...most of us use our inverter for DC power, so the power usage is much higher when you use your inverter making the DishyNOAC much more energy efficient.
I did a video a couple of years ago for dishy two isn’t a 300 and it’s built in AC inverter. It may be more power efficient to run it on DC, but maybe by 10%
I had the dish sitting on top of my car for six months running back to my room, in the motel, I live in because the Wi-Fi was nonexistent indoors. The motel before that it was sitting out on a patio that was covered and there was metal railing around the patio and it still worked, but it would drop out because it could only see maybe a quarter of what a dish sitting out in the open would see.
Put the router in between the dish and the panel so that you have something the size of a computer shopper. Put the Wi-Fi antenna on the side so that it slides out a little bit and then you can flip it up.
You could put a tilt stand on it so that you could angle it through a window if that’s all you had and that would look like a horseshoe, but have the Wi-Fi antenna built in to the vertical portion of the stand
I just purchased the DishyNOAC connected everything (e.g. router power supply with barrel plug and 12 volt DC cigarrete lighter to use my Jackery 12V - same config as yours). I connected just like you had in the 1st part of your video. The Starlink dish works with no issues (mine is the same Gen 3 with the new router). Although, the router is not working. It appears to not be receiving enough power. It drops the wifi constantly and disappears. Not sure why yours has enough power (my assumption based on the disappearance and fading of the status light from full on, to blinking, to faded light) for the router and mine is not working. I have removed and reinstalled the wires, they have a solid connection. The voltmeter is showing about 12.7 volts on DishyNOAC. If you have any ideas I am open to them.
If you can borrow another router from somewhere. Any router and see if you can duplicate the same issues. If not then you have a Starlink router issue. If you can repeat the issues you either have a Dishy issue or power source issue. Then I would plug jackery into a AC wall outlet tp charge it and while charging see if you have router issues. If you don't then it's a Jackery issue. Yeah, it's really just a process of elimination. Not always the easiest or fastest. I hope this helps in some small way.
So my question, why do I need a DishyNOAC if I’m using the barrel connector for the router? Couldn’t I just buy the DC barrel adapter and plug the Starlink directly into the router like normal and it would inject the power thru Ethernet? You might even get a slim savings of wattage.
Yes you could supply 56V DC through the DC barrel plug on the router. That involves more modifications and supplying a compatible DC converter. That’s what I was originally doing, but couldn’t find a decent 56V converter that I could recommend.
If the router takes 12v input then can't you just wire that power cord (the one you run from the NOAC to the router) directly to your RV/vehicle battery?
Yep, I just found this easier than running another separate power run just for the router. If you're asking about just supplying 12V to the Starlink router instead of bothering with the DishyNOAC, 12V only powers on the router functionality, it won't power the dish. You need to supply 56V to the Starlink router to get enough power to run the Standard dish off the router.
My gen 3 uses 35-45W plugged into a solar generator with ice melt turned off. $100 to run DC would be tough to justify. I have solar panels to charge my generator.
The Gen 3 router is precisely what Colby is using in this video. If you go to 6:51 on this video he gives the details on how he has the starlink router connected to his DC set-up.
Gen 2: does my Gen 2 antenna cable connector plug into the DishyNOAC 'just like' your Gen 3 cable does? that I don't have to cut my Starlink cable and separate out the power from the data and add an ethernet connector to it? thanks!
I would have thought bigger difference. I run a Unique 12v fridge off the grid and much less draw overnight on goal zero, yet not need to run the investor. I'm not sure I love all the extra wires; Starlink should have that hardware simplified.
The Mini is the best option overall for power consumption and simplicity. It’s native DC powered. But since the Standard is more common and cheaper at the moment, lots of interest in converting it to DC.
@@StarlinkHardware@StarlinkHardware, thanks, leaning towards the strongest signal for cell service; I have plenty of batteries and a generator when needed.
Correct me if im wrong here.... the starlink router provides POE power to the dish so the use of DishyNOAC as a POE injector is added complexity of this setup and is completely unnecessary... if the starlink router has an input of 12-33v just connect to dc power.... kind of a misleading vid title, you should change it to "how to use starlink with 3rd party routers", and actually show using it with a 3rd party router....
The Gen 3 dish requires 56 volts to operate. The Gen 3 router accepts 12 volts only as a router. Supplying 12/24V to the Gen 3 router wouldn’t work to power the dish, it would only boot up as a router or mesh node. You could supply 56V DC to the Gen 3 router and that would work, but there aren’t many great options as far as step up converters to achieve 56V. That’s why I used the DishyNOAC.
You're dealing with a small business vs a large corporation, and it does ship from overseas if you are in the US. But I prefer to support these smaller operations with high quality products vs some of the cheap junk you can find out there. The DishyNOAC certainly isn't the only option out there, just the one I choose to use and review.
A nice and good review. I understand your senario. But for me personally, my bluetti 600 watt mini solar generator was only 198.00 vs the 150ish on the DC converter. For very little more and being very simple minded, and having a UPS ability, I would still stay with the simplicty of my mini solar generator. But, again, you did a great job in the review. I am sure it will help many people.
Recommend putting some furring strips of wood (1x1 or 1x2) screwed to the floor and then mounting the DishyNOAC on top of that to get it up off the floor. You have PEX water lines right there behind the DishyNOAC unit and if there's a leak, your device gets wet. Either that or pick another location all together. I did this for my 3rd party router my SL is running through as it sits on the floor in a space under my furnace where my shower drain line runs through. I get that your camper is tiny and maybe there isn't any other location that would work. That DishyNOAC is slick though.. I used separate DC-DC converter and a POE injector.
Just about to write that great observation 👍🏻
Great review! Thanks so much for posting this. Really enjoyed the tour of your Scamp trailer, those things are cool! 🙂
Since a DishyNoAC steps up DC voltage, that process is typically convert input DC to AC, boost voltage with a transformer, and rectify the now higher AC back to DC. IE, the same process as a common 12V inverter except at several times the cost.
The packaging for DC to DC converters is much smaller and the electronics are typically more efficient than your average AC to DC power adapter that comes with Starlink. Just look at the size of the Gen 3 power supply vs DishyNOAC. Sure there is the extra cost, but you also gain the feature of not needing an AC power source, and overall power savings because the device is more efficient than the Gen 3 power supply.
Great Explanation!
Great video. Thank you for posting. The DishyNOAC looks very similar to a few other units on the market (on Amazon). My suspicion is they are all the same manufacturer, board and enclosure with different brand labeling. How hot does the DishyNOAC enclosure get? I saw a report on the Starlink on Boats FB group where a very similar (if not the same) unit burned a hole in the encloser and almost started a fire on a sailboat.
Thank you for your observation. We have specified entirely different components in manufacturing and collaborated closely with the manufacturer to deliver a product far superior to others that may appear similar. Our case material is specifically selected for its heat-resistant properties, and the internal heat sink is sized to match the unit. The case itself has additional vents and built-in feet to facilitate air circulation. Each unit is thoroughly tested before dispatch and comes with a unique serial number, allowing it to be traced back to its original batch and bench testing.
You forgot to ad the Inverter Conversion loss.
I don't understand that if the router powers the dish through POE, why you need to hook up the router 2 dish through the DishyNOAC. Wouldn't it just work if you would power only the router with the DishyNOAC and let the router power the dish? If you keep on using the original router.
That's one method, yes. The DishyNOAC, however, is set up for being able to use any router, not the Starlink one. They also designed it to be compatible with Gen 2 as well, which doesn't have the same option of just supplying the router with 56V DC like you can with Gen 3. The DishyNOAC also doesn't have DC output terminals to power the router, it just has POE through the Ethernet cable that goes to the dish.
@@StarlinkHardware I am confused as well. If the NOAC will create POE and supply the dish, and so will the Starlink router, why use POE. It looks like you powered the Starlink router with 12vdc, if you can connect it to 12vdc, what is the purpose of the NOAC unless you are using a different router.
I just bought a 1500 watt Dc power converter off of Amazon that converts 10-60vdc to anything up to 90vdcI believe from another TH-camr that uses his in Africa. Also simple and I think only cost me $25. But this seems a bit easier.
But...most of us use our inverter for DC power, so the power usage is much higher when you use your inverter making the DishyNOAC much more energy efficient.
Correction, we use our inverter for AC power.
I did a video a couple of years ago for dishy two isn’t a 300 and it’s built in AC inverter. It may be more power efficient to run it on DC, but maybe by 10%
Dishy 2 & Jackery 300. It worked well enough it would get you out of a jam.
I had the dish sitting on top of my car for six months running back to my room, in the motel, I live in because the Wi-Fi was nonexistent indoors. The motel before that it was sitting out on a patio that was covered and there was metal railing around the patio and it still worked, but it would drop out because it could only see maybe a quarter of what a dish sitting out in the open would see.
They should probably add a solid-state battery that is the dimensions of the panel for Dishy 4 mobile
Put the router in between the dish and the panel so that you have something the size of a computer shopper. Put the Wi-Fi antenna on the side so that it slides out a little bit and then you can flip it up.
You could put a tilt stand on it so that you could angle it through a window if that’s all you had and that would look like a horseshoe, but have the Wi-Fi antenna built in to the vertical portion of the stand
I just purchased the DishyNOAC connected everything (e.g. router power supply with barrel plug and 12 volt DC cigarrete lighter to use my Jackery 12V - same config as yours). I connected just like you had in the 1st part of your video. The Starlink dish works with no issues (mine is the same Gen 3 with the new router). Although, the router is not working. It appears to not be receiving enough power. It drops the wifi constantly and disappears. Not sure why yours has enough power (my assumption based on the disappearance and fading of the status light from full on, to blinking, to faded light) for the router and mine is not working. I have removed and reinstalled the wires, they have a solid connection. The voltmeter is showing about 12.7 volts on DishyNOAC. If you have any ideas I am open to them.
If you can borrow another router from somewhere. Any router and see if you can duplicate the same issues. If not then you have a Starlink router issue. If you can repeat the issues you either have a Dishy issue or power source issue. Then I would plug jackery into a AC wall outlet tp charge it and while charging see if you have router issues. If you don't then it's a Jackery issue. Yeah, it's really just a process of elimination. Not always the easiest or fastest. I hope this helps in some small way.
It amazes me that Starlink doesn’t supply a piece of equipment to allow this easily now that they have options intended for mobile use.
So my question, why do I need a DishyNOAC if I’m using the barrel connector for the router? Couldn’t I just buy the DC barrel adapter and plug the Starlink directly into the router like normal and it would inject the power thru Ethernet? You might even get a slim savings of wattage.
Yes you could supply 56V DC through the DC barrel plug on the router. That involves more modifications and supplying a compatible DC converter. That’s what I was originally doing, but couldn’t find a decent 56V converter that I could recommend.
@@StarlinkHardware 56vdc at how many amps?
Thanks for starv tip
If the router takes 12v input then can't you just wire that power cord (the one you run from the NOAC to the router) directly to your RV/vehicle battery?
Yep, I just found this easier than running another separate power run just for the router. If you're asking about just supplying 12V to the Starlink router instead of bothering with the DishyNOAC, 12V only powers on the router functionality, it won't power the dish. You need to supply 56V to the Starlink router to get enough power to run the Standard dish off the router.
@@StarlinkHardware got it. That was my confusion. So the dish needs 57v which the router (powered by 12v) cannot supply. Thanks.
My gen 3 uses 35-45W plugged into a solar generator with ice melt turned off.
$100 to run DC would be tough to justify.
I have solar panels to charge my generator.
Are we able to still use the starlink router? Their website says that it replaces the router and we need a separate Wi-Fi access point.
The Gen 3 router is precisely what Colby is using in this video. If you go to 6:51 on this video he gives the details on how he has the starlink router connected to his DC set-up.
NOT SURE WHATS HAPPENING WITH THE COMMENTS. It Keeps Deleting...
Gen 2: does my Gen 2 antenna cable connector plug into the DishyNOAC 'just like' your Gen 3 cable does? that I don't have to cut my Starlink cable and separate out the power from the data and add an ethernet connector to it? thanks!
For Gen 2, you can use an adapter so you don’t have to cut the cable: amzn.to/4gJyHpa
Looks like Starvmount only ships to the UK? Is anyone else seeing that?
figured it out, look for the little flag in the top right... think I was too excited to get my order in :)
I do not see a "flag" to select. What is the price in USD?
What is discount code? Thamk you
SLHARDWARE
I would have thought bigger difference. I run a Unique 12v fridge off the grid and much less draw overnight on goal zero, yet not need to run the investor. I'm not sure I love all the extra wires; Starlink should have that hardware simplified.
The Mini is the best option overall for power consumption and simplicity. It’s native DC powered. But since the Standard is more common and cheaper at the moment, lots of interest in converting it to DC.
@@StarlinkHardware@StarlinkHardware, thanks, leaning towards the strongest signal for cell service; I have plenty of batteries and a generator when needed.
WOOOOOOW, 325 upload?????? But ONLY 10 MB download??????
Correct me if im wrong here.... the starlink router provides POE power to the dish so the use of DishyNOAC as a POE injector is added complexity of this setup and is completely unnecessary... if the starlink router has an input of 12-33v just connect to dc power.... kind of a misleading vid title, you should change it to "how to use starlink with 3rd party routers", and actually show using it with a 3rd party router....
The Gen 3 dish requires 56 volts to operate. The Gen 3 router accepts 12 volts only as a router. Supplying 12/24V to the Gen 3 router wouldn’t work to power the dish, it would only boot up as a router or mesh node. You could supply 56V DC to the Gen 3 router and that would work, but there aren’t many great options as far as step up converters to achieve 56V. That’s why I used the DishyNOAC.
up/down reversed
.. when i think of all the guys who hacked their Unit before this, virtually Destroying It for Anything Else .. 🙄⚡🔋
This product takes forever to ship, and basically has no customer service
You're dealing with a small business vs a large corporation, and it does ship from overseas if you are in the US. But I prefer to support these smaller operations with high quality products vs some of the cheap junk you can find out there. The DishyNOAC certainly isn't the only option out there, just the one I choose to use and review.