Thank you so much for this video!! Just finished an Audi Q5. 1st time i have done rear pads on a vehicle with electric parking brake. Wouldn't have known what I was up against. I really appreciate you taking the time to make/share this video.
Now it's old, 2003-07 E320 with SBC (sensotronic brake control) Mercedes , you had to use the factory X entry scantool to deactivate electronic brakes, front and rear, install new wear sensors, and reset with scantool ( and never open the car door or else calipers activates). It could be bypassed too, but I didn't think a EPB could. Learned a good lesson here. I was about to order the cheapest scantool for a EPB equipped vw jetta (Obdeleven) and came across this video, this southern mechanic is the man. It's not a full tutorial as was said, it's great though...you saved me big bucks. best regards southern mechanic!!
Thank you!!! Yes I agree especially when people top off the brake fluid as the brakes wear then when you push the caliper pistons back in then you have a mess at the master cylinder lol, thanks for watching 😊
Ranj Singh thanks for the kind comment and you are welcome, im not sure on the brake bleeding part, I have heard that some people bleed the brake system the best they can then somehow trigger the abs system then bleed it again to get the rest of the air out but I have never personally tried it so I can't say for sure
Best video ever! My god, you saved me hundreds of dollars, Southern Mechanic. After opening the pistons of my wife's 2014 Audi Q5, using my scan tool, somehow the EPB got engaged again. I didn't realize this until I removed the left rear caliper, then could not screw the piston the rest of the way in using my Schwaben brake caliper tool set which I've used for years. It was then that I noticed the blinking EPB light in the cabin. And with the brake system taken apart, I could not disengage the EPB. And the piston was out too far to put the old pads back in. Your video was my last hope, and it worked perfectly. I've had all the children that I'm going to have, sir, but I think I will adopt a baby and name him Southern Mechanic in gratitude to you!
@@SouthernMechanic I've made many DIY threads on Audizine where I've been a member for some ten years, but your video goes above and beyond because it helps people who are really stuck in a no-win situation. I just want to emphasize what a difference that you have made to my wrenching life today. If you're ever in Minnesota, let me know. I will take you out to dinner and drinks, my treat. :)
I'm doing a A6 right now and got stuck on this part .THANKS for this vid. I been doing brakes for years but this is the first time I've seen this electronic crap
Surprised no one mentioned disconnecting the connector on the motor and applying 12V to the pins while the caliper is still installed. It will either retract and release the parking brake or expand out locking the parking brake. If it retracts, you're good to go to the next step. If it locks, reverse the polarity of the 12V and it will retract. Takes less than 2 min. Once retracted, you can remove the caliper and replace pads & rotors as usual. When you're done with pad/rotor replacement, start the car and manually apply and release the parking brake a few times so it sets in correctly. No need to remove the motor from the caliper.
Saved my day mate. Just a 20 min ago happened to my passat, ive heard about these faults but never thought that it would happen to me. 15 min job. Thank you a lot.
Hey, you are a freakin genius! I drive an Audi and will try this on my car when time to replace the rear brakes. Appreciate your time for sharing the video. You just saved me at least $300 from buying the computer and taking to dealer.
Thank you. I own a 2009 VW CC 3.6L 4motion. I was able to do it without removing the caliper. Getting to the torx 30 screws was a pain in the rear, but it was worth it. I realized that the torx 40 screw to relieve the pressure doesn't have enough grip, so it is time to replace both calipers. For now, car is drivable and I will budget my calipers for the next 30 days instead of running a $500 emergency expense. Greetings from Minnesota!
Thankyou, was worried about doing rear discs and pads without VAG. This method 100% works. 2016 plate Audi A3 Sline. If doing the discs as well as pads. Make sure you have a small M14 spline bit. Only 1 I had was about 1.5 inch long out of my set I couldn't get my socket on it, kept fouling on the surroundings. Had to run to Machinemart for a small stubby one. Other than that was perfect. Once brakes pads in, connect all up again, turn electric handbrake off and on till calibrated. Check it's solid and cannot spin while handbrake on, and off ya go. Great video
OMG THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! I was dreading changing the brake pads on my S6 since I read everywhere you needed the VAG-COM. I can finally get rid of the brake squeals without going to the dealer. Dealer wanted $249 just for labor not including parts for the rear only!
VAG COM gives a commission to videos or people that state in their videos that you need to use their software in order to do the repair. It’s kinda shady but yeah
Thank you! On my Tiguan I was precisely at the step where you simply rotate the mechanism with the T in the electronic control... But I thought I had to take the whole servo apart... So I put everything back together, put the pads back in the box, and walked away. Then I found your video! Well, I'm glad I didn't take the e-brake mechanism apart but I'm even MORE glad I saw your video! Thank you, my man. I hated that electronic brake from the moment I saw it!
Awesome, Thanks! I work at an import dealer and none of our scanners would open the brake calipers. $3000 computer available and I had to watch youtube to figure out this repair.
Hey, man. Just want to come back and say that this method worked like a charm on my '11 Audi A4 (B8). I can honestly say that I can get a little chicken shit when it comes to circumventing diagnostic tools, but this was a piece if cake. Some others have noted, and I'll repeat...use a slight smearing of synthetic grease on the O-ring for the parking brake motor housing...it will slip right back on. When I say a smear, I mean the smallest amount just to allow the two assemblies to slide back together. Parking brake worked just fine after the pads were replaced. Thanks, man!
Many thanks for this video instruction. I used it on my Audi A6 avant 2012. It is so easy when someone explains very clearly how to do it. Great job!! I saved a lot of money with only 1 hour work. Once again THNX
your video is the answer, thank you very much. new cars now a days ussually using parking e-brakes which disc brakes are easier to work on but they seems ebrakes makes it complicated. i worked 1 on a friends car but i did not continue replacing the rotors and pads i just lubricate the slider pins and all stack up and no way to push back the piston. poor friend of mine uses and runs his car with stack up brake pads. God bless and more power.
I have been a tech for over 50 years and here is a little trick to make this job a little easier. unplug the connector on the e-brake motor. make 2 jumper wires with 1/4 female spade connectors. hook onto terminals of motor. connect jumper wires to 12 volt power source and motor will run. If it applies the e-brake, just reverse the wires and the motor will back-off on the e-brake. then you can push the pistons in and install the pads. when you are done just pump-up the brakes and then cycle the e-brake switch on and release 3 times and it will automatically adjusts the e-brake.. Done---quick and easy. Joe
No fault codes afterwards? Did it this way one time, car had a error code on brakes and had to send client to another shop to clear that code, because our guy was on vacation. From that time on we don't service brakes if our electrician is not on the spot.
@@johnkenny4017 no, I compressed it manually but that did create an issue with the system thinking the piston was in a different location. You need to be sure to physically return it to the same state. Lik many things there is more than one way to do something. Each can have pluses and minuses.
@@webberrify yeah these electronic parking brakes are totally insane no reason for him whatsoever just greed on the car manufacturers part thanks for response
@@johnkenny4017 I do prefer mechanical systems as the simplicity is my preference. I wonder if it is a result of not having a straight line to run cable based on unibody designs or other factors. Like drive by wire systems being used for years on throttle bodies. That appears to give engineers some flexibility, but trickles complexity down to techs and DIYers.
Make sure to lube the o-ring before reassembling the motor to the caliper. I didn't and in my attempt to reseat the seal, I snapped the plastic flange/wing off the motor housing that the bolts pass through. Not a huge deal but I could have avoided replacing another part by paying attention to the details. Other than that, this process worked perfectly! Thanks for posting Southern M.
"Vaseline or other petroleum products should never be used on rubber or neoprene objects. It can deteriorate the rubber or neoprene very rapidly. The correct lube to use is a silicone based lubricant, which comes with or without Teflon. This is available in spa or pool stores. You can also use the silicone spray for MagLights and other applications, especially if the weather is cold." Not sure what these o-rings are made from but maybe a different lubricant would be better? Maybe that stuff you use on headlights that comes in a little packet? I think that's made from silicon but not sure.
It all depend on what kind of material the seal is made of... Normaly in an application like this it´s Nitrile (NBR) and that stand petrolium based grease just fine. It might even be Viton...
Southern Mechanic, hats off to you and many thanks for this video. This worked perfectly and I did not have to do anything with the electronic EPB controller as some of the You Tube video's have cautioned about re-calibration. It's a DC gear motor with torque settings I am not sure what they think would have to be re-calibrated.
Robert Smith exactly!!!! it knows when to shut off when the motor stops when it pushes against the pad because the current draw rises and the computer senses this and shuts off power to the motor after it loads up against the brake pad, thanks for watching
Thanks a bunch, just done them on my grand scenic 3. Couldn't get the piston in far enough for 2 new meaty pads so used one new and one old with meat left on it. Will revisit in the summer! Great video
i can vouch, not a single error message. just be sure to be on flat ground the 1st time you engage the handbrake the first time after doing it to reset everything and ur good to go
thanks. this video saved my bacon last night. working on a 2016 Mazda CX5 and the piston would not go down no matter what even though it was in maintenance mode. Mazda (luckily for me) uses allen screws instead of torx. I didn't have any big torx available. I was able to get the brakes back on after i did this. otherwise my car would have still been up on a jack today.
THANKYOU!!! I was seriously panicking when the hand brake got stuck on while changing the pads (first time trying!) and thsi video must have saved me a fortune in rip-off repairs. You're a legend! BTW, this worked for a Renault Grand Scenic 3 perfectly.
You are SO the MAN! About to give it a try on '07 Audi A8. Another vid showed doing it with the VagCom, recommended just for seeing the other bits on an A8. But you are going to save me SOOOO much money, and I'm getting really nice slotted & drilled rotors at the same time.
I used this method on a 2014 Jaguar F Type....worked exactly the same as yours did.....thanks for posting it. I have two scanners that are suppose to work on the Jag to retract the EPB, but neither one worked...Both from Autel....EBS301 / MK 808
MRM thanks for the kind comment, there was another person who left a similar comment as yours saying that he had a very expensive computer and it wouldn't retract the epb either and he used my method, thanks for watching
good info bro! i was a dealer tech at BMW 86 to 2013 they had this on new models. I had to scan the whole car then put the brakes into a service mode to change the pads.
Perfect thanks to let us know how to release the electric piston breaks I have Acura TLX 2015, the dealership want replace the rear pads breaks just for labor $250!!! thank you
i bought the pads thinking " ive done vw/audis how hard can it be" never thought about silly electric handbrake till now. Great video taking mechanics back to mechanical rather than £3 grand diagnosic machine rip off nonsense.
I did the job last week following this procedure and had no problems whatsoever, I didnt stick the battery on charge as vw say you should. This is a great video.......
YOU DA MAN!!!! holy crap, thought I was losing my mind when I couldn't compress the piston. This is my first German car ... might be my last :) Thankfully I saw your vid. Worked perfect. Did have to fight one of the Torx screws, but car is 8 years old. BTW, I found a 6mm hex bit worked on the motor screw just fine on my '09 A4 Quattro.
gkwillmott haha glad I could help, I haven't had the screws stick yet but like you say after 8 years I'd say they will get a little seized, thanks for watching
How many of you owned a 20 to 25 year old car with ABS? If you have then you would know they light up and fixing them properly is very expensive. They can also cause the car to fail road worthy. Now that is just 1 electronic component, how about adding more electronics to the mix like lane keeping assist, brake assist etc? These cars will be in the Junk Yard earlier than the cars of the 90's and 00's (12-15 years tops, half the time it took the previous generation to be scrapped).
Awesome video - thanks heaps, done plenty of VW brakes, none with EPC :-) - about to do my B6 - R36. Joseph - love your 12v elec tip, but this vid is the best option if you arent that elec savvy and maybe worried about burning out the servo motor - NOTE - for those of you using the 12V method - make sure it's a 12V - DC powersupply :-) obvious to some i know. Very Very handy to know that pistons dont have that silly locking mechanism, that needs winding back - PHEW!!
3/4 actually stripped, but i managed to get 2 out using a chisel and rotating, and the last i just left in there. going to drill through next time but i didn't have a torch to heat it up first (saw someone do it that way before drilling.) Those screws are brutal! Got new Phillips ones in my kit from ECS. Thanks again.
Thank you S M. Wanting to try this on my wife's 2013 Audi Q5 Quattro but concerned. When I earlier tried to get my 30 yr+ mechanic to replace the rear brakes and rotors, he stated he did not have the "special tool" required after placing the rear brakes into "service mode." He stated after placing the rear brakes into the service mode, there was another Audi special tool needed to "hold back" something? Anyway, is the 2013 Audi Q5 Quattro a different set up then what you are describing here? Thank you for the help. I just found your TH-cam as I was searching for ways to DIY my wife's rear breaks Now a subscriber.
Thank you for subscribing!!! It should be the same on the audi's, I also think that some other people in this comment section have mentioned that they have done the same vehicle as yours and it is the same process as I have done in my video, hope this helps
I've just done this on my Golf 7.5 I didn't have the odb to plug in to put it in maintenance mode So turned off the rear brake Lifted car replaced discs n pads Wound caliper bk with a caliper winding kit Put it all bk together got in car Error rear brakes locked back on ? Without the odb diag tool car was stuck fast Disconnect battery for 30+ min reconnected & rear brake reset Job done
Great job, love it and so precise with your instructions and thanks for the Screen Print out at the end. I also read the post by Joseph Arpino sr to just flash the motor with a 12v supply and then use a Press Tool to push back the Piston, but both are real work arounds, thanks both. Mr Spence Eng
@@grumpygit447 Good news, but since doing a 12v flash on the Caliper Brake Motor, I have since found a simple method, I opened up the bleed nipple and used a compression tool to press back the Piston, it worked a treat. 3mths on and no hiccups. Mr Spence Eng
Will this work on a 2018 Buick Enclave? Problem I’m having is the caliper won’t slide off the pads since the plastic EPB housing is large and hits the bracket on the way out which is frustrating. Can’t find any information online on the procedure besides your video. I’m only trying to grease brake pad contacts since they squeal but will want to change my own rotors/pads in the future like I’ve always done. Thanks for the video!
Worked on my 2013 Audi S5 with electronic parking brake! I was really worried that the brakes had to be calibrated by VAGCOM or something elaborate afterwards so I was very hesitant to do this at first. Glad to report that no error codes or issues with the e-park brake. The e-park brake motor only has 2 wires, which means to me it was simply for motor power and direction. So i think there is no sensor/feedback in the electronic motor that would require calibration by the computer. [I recall watching a video on youtube where a british guy claimed calibration was necessary on an older A6. obviously this doesn't apply in this case] I believe I cranked the e-motor back clockwise to retract it. And yes later it took 3 times as long for the e-brake to engage finally. But afterwards it responded and engaged in the normal time for e-brakes. But i seem to have ripped the rubber cover for the bleeder valve inadvertently. Is this a major issue? Anyone know?
Joel Reodica yes it's a simple system, two wires positive and negative and the polarity is switched to retract and apply brake and when the pad presses against the rotor the motor will stall which makes the motor draw more amps and the computer senses the higher amp draw and knows that the pad has made contact with the rotor and turns power off to the motor, no sensor wire or anything to calibrate, the rubber cap is just a dust cover to keep the bleeder screw from getting plugged up with dirt, not a big deal if it's off you just may have to clean the bleeder screw out if you ever have to bleed the brakes
Will this work on my 2006 Audi A6. Rear pads and discs need changed and I’ve been quoted £150 to do the job. If this works on mine I will be saving £100. Thanks
Nice ! What was the model of your car ? I have a 2015 a3 sline . Wanna know if it show you some ight in the dash because you retract the actuator mechanicly and not with a scanner?
Just get the OBDELEVEN and avoid the possibility that this procedure will set a fault code or damage the actuator. You will find the cost of the OBDELEVEN a fantastic value if you own a VW or Audi. You can do full diagnostics at near Dealer level and coding of options in the control modules and more.
will this work on a vauxhall insignia 2016. i should think it would would work on any car with electric park brake motor. great video southern mechanic a true money saver
Alan Dean yes as long as it is electric park brake it should work as long as it's the 2 wire system, all of the electric park brakes I have done like this have been the same, thanks for watching
Sorry about the late reply, youtube changed their notification system and they don't show up like they use to, it should work of it is set up the same way, this method will work on most EPB systems, thanks for watching!!!
Thanks for a great video! Just replaced my pads and it works, BUT I get error on my handbrake now. I can feel how the left side locks the wheels, while the right side doesen't. Just one question, when I turned the torx clockwise to return the piston. On the right side, I turned it all the way back, but not on the left. I just pushed it back enought to fit back. I guess that's why they're not brake eaven. What shall I do? Turn both pistons all the way back and re-do all the job? Please help me out buddy. Thanks!
Aleks K I have never had that happen but I would try to turn them in the release position as far as they will go until they stop then reinstal the gear box onto the caliper and try it again, also make sure the gear box goes back on in the correct potision without binding up and also make sure a wire or connector didn't come loose while you were working on it, you may have pinched/cut a wire or pulled a connector loose without realising it
I actually did disconnect the connectors while working with the brakes :( So what will that cause? I will try to reinstall everything so that both pistons are all the way back (to have same base position) and then turn the brakes on.
I have to appologise for my comment. I was a real fool. As I wrote, I disconnected while I was working with the brakes. I'm embaressed to tell that I forgot to connect on one side :/ But I still did the both sides with max return of the piston and now everything works fine. Once agan, sorry for bothering, but most of all, thanks once again for sharing this video! Cheers!
Can i just use my caliper wind back tool to wind the piston back in place instead of taking of the electronic parking brake motor? Thanks for the video.
Sorry for the late reply but TH-cam for some reason just now notified me of your message but no you will have to take the motor assembly off and wind it that way because the thread system is in the opposite side with this setup, thanks for watching
@@SouthernMechanic no problem. I finally got the anchor plate bolts loose on one side without breaking them and then went to take off the motor and the torx head stripped on both bolts. So now i just got a scanner in today for the wife's car.
Once you unwind the motor back and push piston back, then replace the pads and disc, do you just function the electric handbrake and it will set itself?
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Thank you so much for this video!! Just finished an Audi Q5. 1st time i have done rear pads on a vehicle with electric parking brake. Wouldn't have known what I was up against. I really appreciate you taking the time to make/share this video.
Awesome!!! Sounds like it went well for you, glad I could help, thanks for watching
Now it's old, 2003-07 E320 with SBC (sensotronic brake control) Mercedes , you had to use the factory X entry scantool to deactivate electronic brakes, front and rear, install new wear sensors, and reset with scantool ( and never open the car door or else calipers activates). It could be bypassed too, but I didn't think a EPB could. Learned a good lesson here. I was about to order the cheapest scantool for a EPB equipped vw jetta (Obdeleven) and came across this video, this southern mechanic is the man. It's not a full tutorial as was said, it's great though...you saved me big bucks. best regards southern mechanic!!
Thank you!!! Yes I agree especially when people top off the brake fluid as the brakes wear then when you push the caliper pistons back in then you have a mess at the master cylinder lol, thanks for watching 😊
Have an Audi A8 and followed these instructions. Worked like a charm. Thank you and God bless.
Awesome to hear!!! Thanks for watching, glad I could help
God bless you dude, worked a treat. So glad there are helpful people out there. Who give their time for others. Stay blessed always.....
Any idea if I can bleed the abs brake system without a vag-com. 2011 audi a4 b8 3.0 tdi. Thanks in advance 😉
Ranj Singh thanks for the kind comment and you are welcome, im not sure on the brake bleeding part, I have heard that some people bleed the brake system the best they can then somehow trigger the abs system then bleed it again to get the rest of the air out but I have never personally tried it so I can't say for sure
Southern Mechanic
Top-man, Thank-you so very much for the information. May the good lord give you everything you deserve. Stay bright always...
Best video ever! My god, you saved me hundreds of dollars, Southern Mechanic. After opening the pistons of my wife's 2014 Audi Q5, using my scan tool, somehow the EPB got engaged again. I didn't realize this until I removed the left rear caliper, then could not screw the piston the rest of the way in using my Schwaben brake caliper tool set which I've used for years. It was then that I noticed the blinking EPB light in the cabin. And with the brake system taken apart, I could not disengage the EPB. And the piston was out too far to put the old pads back in. Your video was my last hope, and it worked perfectly. I've had all the children that I'm going to have, sir, but I think I will adopt a baby and name him Southern Mechanic in gratitude to you!
😊 I'm very glad I could help sir, and thank you for the kind comment, thanks for watching!!!!
@@SouthernMechanic I've made many DIY threads on Audizine where I've been a member for some ten years, but your video goes above and beyond because it helps people who are really stuck in a no-win situation. I just want to emphasize what a difference that you have made to my wrenching life today. If you're ever in Minnesota, let me know. I will take you out to dinner and drinks, my treat. :)
@@johndahlen4698 thanks my friend 😊 if your ever in east Tennessee I will do the same!!!
I'm doing a A6 right now and got stuck on this part .THANKS for this vid. I been doing brakes for years but this is the first time I've seen this electronic crap
Jedi Knight your welcome, glad my video helped you out ☺ thanks for watching
Jedi Knight did you have any problems?
Im doing as
Surprised no one mentioned disconnecting the connector on the motor and applying 12V to the pins while the caliper is still installed. It will either retract and release the parking brake or expand out locking the parking brake. If it retracts, you're good to go to the next step. If it locks, reverse the polarity of the 12V and it will retract. Takes less than 2 min.
Once retracted, you can remove the caliper and replace pads & rotors as usual. When you're done with pad/rotor replacement, start the car and manually apply and release the parking brake a few times so it sets in correctly.
No need to remove the motor from the caliper.
I was about to buy a $600 VCDS tool before watching this. Can't believe this. Thanks man 🤜
You are very welcome, thanks for watching!!!!
Saved my day mate. Just a 20 min ago happened to my passat, ive heard about these faults but never thought that it would happen to me. 15 min job. Thank you a lot.
Thanks for the kind comment,glad I could help
Hey, you are a freakin genius! I drive an Audi and will try this on my car when time to replace the rear brakes. Appreciate your time for sharing the video. You just saved me at least $300 from buying the computer and taking to dealer.
You, Sir, are a savior. You are a gift to mankind. Thank you for making this video and being awesome
Thank you very much, glad I could help, thanks for watching
Thank you. I own a 2009 VW CC 3.6L 4motion. I was able to do it without removing the caliper. Getting to the torx 30 screws was a pain in the rear, but it was worth it. I realized that the torx 40 screw to relieve the pressure doesn't have enough grip, so it is time to replace both calipers. For now, car is drivable and I will budget my calipers for the next 30 days instead of running a $500 emergency expense. Greetings from Minnesota!
You are very welcome, glad I could help, thanks for watching
Top video! The results are in and the judges have awarded you a “10”! You are the Man!
Thankyou, was worried about doing rear discs and pads without VAG. This method 100% works. 2016 plate Audi A3 Sline. If doing the discs as well as pads. Make sure you have a small M14 spline bit. Only 1 I had was about 1.5 inch long out of my set I couldn't get my socket on it, kept fouling on the surroundings. Had to run to Machinemart for a small stubby one. Other than that was perfect. Once brakes pads in, connect all up again, turn electric handbrake off and on till calibrated. Check it's solid and cannot spin while handbrake on, and off ya go. Great video
OMG THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! I was dreading changing the brake pads on my S6 since I read everywhere you needed the VAG-COM. I can finally get rid of the brake squeals without going to the dealer. Dealer wanted $249 just for labor not including parts for the rear only!
Prosthetic Hands wow that's crazy!!!!
your welcome, Glad I could help
VAG COM gives a commission to videos or people that state in their videos that you need to use their software in order to do the repair. It’s kinda shady but yeah
I’m a nationally known bus driver out San Diego, and I must say, “YOU DA MAN’” Worked like a charm!!
Thanks for the kind comment, thanks for watching
Doing this job tomorrow, panicked at the thought of the EPB. Actually really simple, thanks.
You're welcome, hope this will help you
Thanks for the video its still making lives easier years later
Thank you! On my Tiguan I was precisely at the step where you simply rotate the mechanism with the T in the electronic control... But I thought I had to take the whole servo apart... So I put everything back together, put the pads back in the box, and walked away. Then I found your video! Well, I'm glad I didn't take the e-brake mechanism apart but I'm even MORE glad I saw your video! Thank you, my man. I hated that electronic brake from the moment I saw it!
8 P. Glad to hear I could help, thanks for watching
Awesome, Thanks! I work at an import dealer and none of our scanners would open the brake calipers. $3000 computer available and I had to watch youtube to figure out this repair.
M D your welcome, glad I could help 😊
Hey, man. Just want to come back and say that this method worked like a charm on my '11 Audi A4 (B8). I can honestly say that I can get a little chicken shit when it comes to circumventing diagnostic tools, but this was a piece if cake. Some others have noted, and I'll repeat...use a slight smearing of synthetic grease on the O-ring for the parking brake motor housing...it will slip right back on. When I say a smear, I mean the smallest amount just to allow the two assemblies to slide back together. Parking brake worked just fine after the pads were replaced. Thanks, man!
You're welcome, glad I could help, yes it helps to apply some lube to any O-ring you're working with to make assembly easier
THANK YOU! Just changed brakes yesterday and your video saved us a lot of time and money. Super COOL thank you.
Your very welcome, glad I could make the job a little easier, thanks for watching
Many thanks for this video instruction. I used it on my Audi A6 avant 2012. It is so easy when someone explains very clearly how to do it. Great job!! I saved a lot of money with only 1 hour work. Once again THNX
Wiebe Agter no problem at all, glad I could help, thanks for watching ☺
your video is the answer, thank you very much.
new cars now a days ussually using parking e-brakes which disc brakes are easier to work on but they seems ebrakes makes it complicated. i worked 1 on a friends car but i did not continue replacing the rotors and pads i just lubricate the slider pins and all stack up and no way to push back the piston. poor friend of mine uses and runs his car with stack up brake pads. God bless and more power.
I am very glad I could help, thanks for watching 😊
I have been a tech for over 50 years and here is a little trick to make this job a little easier. unplug the connector on the e-brake motor. make 2 jumper wires with 1/4 female spade connectors. hook onto terminals of motor. connect jumper wires to 12 volt power source and motor will run. If it applies the e-brake, just reverse the wires and the motor will back-off on the e-brake. then you can push the pistons in and install the pads. when you are done just pump-up the brakes and then cycle the e-brake switch on and release 3 times and it will automatically adjusts the e-brake.. Done---quick and easy. Joe
I have done also the same, it works perfectly
Honestly not mechanical minded don't suppose you know of guide for your way do you? Make my life a bit easier if not this guys one will do
No fault codes afterwards? Did it this way one time, car had a error code on brakes and had to send client to another shop to clear that code, because our guy was on vacation. From that time on we don't service brakes if our electrician is not on the spot.
@@strauts66 I seem to have error, did one side with this method and now parking brake won't engage,just flashes
Any idea what to do now?
I didn't see this until after I finished my rear brakes, but can confirm this method worked for my 2010 VW Passat. Great video!
Thank you!!! And thanks for watching
You didn't need to use a9 or 12 volt battery with wires to depress the piston
@@johnkenny4017 no, I compressed it manually but that did create an issue with the system thinking the piston was in a different location. You need to be sure to physically return it to the same state. Lik many things there is more than one way to do something. Each can have pluses and minuses.
@@webberrify yeah these electronic parking brakes are totally insane no reason for him whatsoever just greed on the car manufacturers part thanks for response
@@johnkenny4017 I do prefer mechanical systems as the simplicity is my preference. I wonder if it is a result of not having a straight line to run cable based on unibody designs or other factors. Like drive by wire systems being used for years on throttle bodies. That appears to give engineers some flexibility, but trickles complexity down to techs and DIYers.
Most informative video yet. Thank you. I was born with a wrench in my hands moons ago. This helped me
Awesome!!! Glad I could help, me too, started when I was around 5 years old believe it or not lol, thanks for watching
Make sure to lube the o-ring before reassembling the motor to the caliper. I didn't and in my attempt to reseat the seal, I snapped the plastic flange/wing off the motor housing that the bolts pass through. Not a huge deal but I could have avoided replacing another part by paying attention to the details. Other than that, this process worked perfectly! Thanks for posting Southern M.
jbezhc for sure, I always use Vaseline (petroleum jelly) on orings, thanks for watching
"Vaseline or other petroleum products should never be used on rubber or neoprene objects. It can deteriorate the rubber or neoprene very rapidly.
The correct lube to use is a silicone based lubricant, which comes with or without Teflon. This is available in spa or pool stores. You can also use the silicone spray for MagLights and other applications, especially if the weather is cold."
Not sure what these o-rings are made from but maybe a different lubricant would be better? Maybe that stuff you use on headlights that comes in a little packet? I think that's made from silicon but not sure.
It all depend on what kind of material the seal is made of...
Normaly in an application like this it´s Nitrile (NBR) and that stand petrolium based grease just fine. It might even be Viton...
Southern Mechanic, hats off to you and many thanks for this video. This worked perfectly and I did not have to do anything with the electronic EPB controller as some of the You Tube video's have cautioned about re-calibration. It's a DC gear motor with torque settings I am not sure what they think would have to be re-calibrated.
Robert Smith exactly!!!! it knows when to shut off when the motor stops when it pushes against the pad because the current draw rises and the computer senses this and shuts off power to the motor after it loads up against the brake pad, thanks for watching
Thanks a bunch, just done them on my grand scenic 3. Couldn't get the piston in far enough for 2 new meaty pads so used one new and one old with meat left on it. Will revisit in the summer! Great video
Alexander Goldie your welcome, thanks for watching
craig bartley not really sure but if it has the 2 wire motor going to electric parking brake then it should work
yea exactly the same, mines a 2009.
i can vouch, not a single error message. just be sure to be on flat ground the 1st time you engage the handbrake the first time after doing it to reset everything and ur good to go
thanks. this video saved my bacon last night. working on a 2016 Mazda CX5 and the piston would not go down no matter what even though it was in maintenance mode. Mazda (luckily for me) uses allen screws instead of torx. I didn't have any big torx available. I was able to get the brakes back on after i did this. otherwise my car would have still been up on a jack today.
Glad to hear I could help, thanks for watching
THANKYOU!!! I was seriously panicking when the hand brake got stuck on while changing the pads (first time trying!) and thsi video must have saved me a fortune in rip-off repairs. You're a legend!
BTW, this worked for a Renault Grand Scenic 3 perfectly.
Iwan Lewis that's what I like to hear ☺ glad I could help, thanks for watching
This shortcut saved me tonight. Thank you!! FWIW it works on Range Rover Sport models with the electric parking brake.
You're welcome, glad I could help, thanks for watching
At last!!! A great tip from a no-nonsense professional.
Gerhard Petersen thanks for the kind comment
Thank you. I just followed your video and got the pads changed with no drama. You rock mate
TheOsitoOsito thanks for the kind comment, glad I could help
Dude thank you so much I have the Solus ultra snap-on binary scanner and couldn't f****** do the brakes electronically so glad I found your video
Your welcome, glad I could help, I have heard other people say they couldn't get the scanner to work either, thanks for watching!!!
Thanks! I'm changing the pads and discs on my Passat tonight and this definately helped!
Glad I could help!!! The thanks for watching
You are SO the MAN! About to give it a try on '07 Audi A8. Another vid showed doing it with the VagCom, recommended just for seeing the other bits on an A8. But you are going to save me SOOOO much money, and I'm getting really nice slotted & drilled rotors at the same time.
Eric Lyons glad I could help save ya some cash ☺ thanks for watching
I used this method on a 2014 Jaguar F Type....worked exactly the same as yours did.....thanks for posting it. I have two scanners that are suppose to work on the Jag to retract the EPB, but neither one worked...Both from Autel....EBS301 / MK 808
MRM thanks for the kind comment, there was another person who left a similar comment as yours saying that he had a very expensive computer and it wouldn't retract the epb either and he used my method, thanks for watching
Saved me a trip to the dealership, thanks so much! Went and bought the 2 torx bits (T30 & T40) & I was good to go!
Kyle Anderson awesome to hear!!! glad I could help
Saved my pockets and life 🙏🏽 you’re the Goat chief
So glad I could help!!! Thanks for watching
good info bro! i was a dealer tech at BMW 86 to 2013 they had this on new models. I had to scan the whole car then put the brakes into a service mode to change the pads.
Yeah it is crazy what you have to do anymore just to do what use to be a simple job, thanks for the kind comment and thanks for watching!!!!!
Hey, dude. I'd buy ya a beer if I could. Just did the rear brakes on my CC. Went smooth as silk. From one fellow mechanic to another: thanks.
Give you a tip breake loose those small torx bolts on the elec brake housing while caliper was still on easier nice set up though
Perfect thanks to let us know how to release the electric piston breaks I have Acura TLX 2015, the dealership want replace the rear pads breaks just for labor $250!!! thank you
You are very welcome, thanks for watching
Worked fine for my megane coupe 2012! 15 min job! Ty
Andrea Cattel glad to hear, thanks for watching
Thank you! You saved me tons of money. Just replaced rear brakes on my CC, and your video was very helpful.
Glad I could help, thanks for watching
Well done your a Gem ,did this job on my VW 2 yrs ago and needed a reminder! Many Thanks
Awesome to hear that I helped!!! Thanks for watching!!!
i bought the pads thinking " ive done vw/audis how hard can it be" never thought about silly electric handbrake till now. Great video taking mechanics back to mechanical rather than £3 grand diagnosic machine rip off nonsense.
I'm glad I could help, thanks for watching
I did the job last week following this procedure and had no problems whatsoever, I didnt stick the battery on charge as vw say you should. This is a great video.......
@@jaapseiye2246 thanks for the kind comment 😊 thanks for watching
I was sweating bullets when I saw computers and VAG tools on other tutorials. Im the family mechanic; those AUDIs I tell ya. Thanks for this!
lol it does get a little scary when they start talking about all the dealer tools, glad my video could help ya, thanks for watching
Thank you very much for this tutorial. It came at a perfect time. I was just about to undertake this very task.
Your very welcome, glad I could help!!!
thanks!! this was awesome just got back from a test drive perfect and parking brake still works almost to easy to do
Awesome to hear, thanks for watching
Nice one, going to give this a try, towing fees £40 then garage costs, its got to be worth a try, thanks for sharing, !!
STEVEHOLE1 your welcome, it should work just fine for you ☺ thanks for watching
YOU DA MAN!!!! holy crap, thought I was losing my mind when I couldn't compress the piston. This is my first German car ... might be my last :) Thankfully I saw your vid. Worked perfect. Did have to fight one of the Torx screws, but car is 8 years old. BTW, I found a 6mm hex bit worked on the motor screw just fine on my '09 A4 Quattro.
gkwillmott haha glad I could help, I haven't had the screws stick yet but like you say after 8 years I'd say they will get a little seized, thanks for watching
gkwillmott same man was trying to get it to collapse for hours though I'd have to buy a new caliper
How many of you owned a 20 to 25 year old car with ABS?
If you have then you would know they light up and fixing them properly is very expensive. They can also cause the car to fail road worthy.
Now that is just 1 electronic component, how about adding more electronics to the mix like lane keeping assist, brake assist etc?
These cars will be in the Junk Yard earlier than the cars of the 90's and 00's (12-15 years tops, half the time it took the previous generation to be scrapped).
I agree!!!!
Good video. Glad there are ways around expensive dealer tools.
As It Is me too!!!! Thanks for watching
Awesome information. Made the job easy for the home mechanic. Thanks for the vid.
Les Taylor your very welcome, thanks for watching
thank you very much! is a lot easier than it looks before you actually do the job!
Thanks for the kind comment, I'm glad I could help
thank you again for your response! you've just got another sub. I look forward to learning more from you!
Awesome video - thanks heaps, done plenty of VW brakes, none with EPC :-) - about to do my B6 - R36.
Joseph - love your 12v elec tip, but this vid is the best option if you arent that elec savvy and maybe worried about burning out the servo motor - NOTE - for those of you using the 12V method - make sure it's a 12V - DC powersupply :-) obvious to some i know.
Very Very handy to know that pistons dont have that silly locking mechanism, that needs winding back - PHEW!!
Took hours of trying to push that damn piston flush now I know why😂😂 helpful video thank you!!!!
Brett Ross lol, you're welcome, thanks for watching
Thanks so much for this video, saved my ass big time. You are the man! Greetings from Sweden🇸🇪
You are very welcome, glad I could help, thank you for watching
Thank you very much...made the job as easy as pie on my 2014 audi a4.
You save me dude !! I was ready to give up with the brakes. Big thanks !!
makakas99 glad to help 😁 thanks for watching
I’ve also seen you can hook a battery charger to the power leads of the motor and it will move in or out depending on polarity
Worked like a charm!!! Thanks man, much appreciated! Unfortunately my torx rotor screw stripped. Ah well.
vleipnik oh crap that sucks, I have a few tricks to get those out, thanks for watching, glad I could help
3/4 actually stripped, but i managed to get 2 out using a chisel and rotating, and the last i just left in there. going to drill through next time but i didn't have a torch to heat it up first (saw someone do it that way before drilling.) Those screws are brutal! Got new Phillips ones in my kit from ECS. Thanks again.
Thanks resolved my question on how to do the rear.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!!!
Very helpful. I wish I'd seen this sooner. Not your normal brake job.
Thanks for watching
It is very simple, turn on ignition and press the parking brake switch for some seconds and EPB is released.
This will release it enough to disengage the parking brake but this will not fully retract the park brake mechanism
Awesome trick ,thanks so much for the tip,worked great on the rear brakes of an Audi A4 estate..Happy Days..
Stephen Chaplin thanks for watching, glad I could help
Thanks a million Southern Mechanic. This worked perfectly on my 2007 Passat.
no problem, glad i could help :-)
Thank you S M. Wanting to try this on my wife's 2013 Audi Q5 Quattro but concerned. When I earlier tried to get my 30 yr+ mechanic to replace the rear brakes and rotors, he stated he did not have the "special tool" required after placing the rear brakes into "service mode." He stated after placing the rear brakes into the service mode, there was another Audi special tool needed to "hold back" something? Anyway, is the 2013 Audi Q5 Quattro a different set up then what you are describing here? Thank you for the help. I just found your TH-cam as I was searching for ways to DIY my wife's rear breaks Now a subscriber.
Thank you for subscribing!!! It should be the same on the audi's, I also think that some other people in this comment section have mentioned that they have done the same vehicle as yours and it is the same process as I have done in my video, hope this helps
I've just done this on my Golf 7.5 I didn't have the odb to plug in to put it in maintenance mode So turned off the rear brake Lifted car replaced discs n pads Wound caliper bk with a caliper winding kit Put it all bk together got in car Error rear brakes locked back on ? Without the odb diag tool car was stuck fast
Disconnect battery for 30+ min reconnected & rear brake reset
Job done
Dude! Awesome sauce! Had to replace the actuator. This vid was a life saver! Thanks!
Your very welcome!!! Glad I could help, thanks for watching
Best trick thanks a lot saved me $200.00 pretty slick setup though german engineer 🖒
Rob Schoufour your welcome, glad I could help, thanks for watching
Great job, love it and so precise with your instructions and thanks for the Screen Print out at the end. I also read the post by Joseph Arpino sr to just flash the motor with a 12v supply and then use a Press Tool to push back the Piston, but both are real work arounds, thanks both. Mr Spence Eng
Thanks for watching!!!
Did that on my Audi a4
@@grumpygit447 Good news, but since doing a 12v flash on the Caliper Brake Motor, I have since found a simple method, I opened up the bleed nipple and used a compression tool to press back the Piston, it worked a treat.
3mths on and no hiccups.
Mr Spence Eng
Thanks dude,I was stuck and you save the day
Awesome!!!! Glad I could help, thanks for watching
Will this work on a 2018 Buick Enclave? Problem I’m having is the caliper won’t slide off the pads since the plastic EPB housing is large and hits the bracket on the way out which is frustrating. Can’t find any information online on the procedure besides your video. I’m only trying to grease brake pad contacts since they squeal but will want to change my own rotors/pads in the future like I’ve always done. Thanks for the video!
I'm not sure because I havent had to change the brakes on one of those yet but I would think it would be the same
Thank you for taking the time to show this. My turn
You're very welcome, glad I could help, thanks for watching 😊
Worked on my 2013 Audi S5 with electronic parking brake! I was really worried that the brakes had to be calibrated by VAGCOM or something elaborate afterwards so I was very hesitant to do this at first. Glad to report that no error codes or issues with the e-park brake. The e-park brake motor only has 2 wires, which means to me it was simply for motor power and direction. So i think there is no sensor/feedback in the electronic motor that would require calibration by the computer. [I recall watching a video on youtube where a british guy claimed calibration was necessary on an older A6. obviously this doesn't apply in this case] I believe I cranked the e-motor back clockwise to retract it. And yes later it took 3 times as long for the e-brake to engage finally. But afterwards it responded and engaged in the normal time for e-brakes. But i seem to have ripped the rubber cover for the bleeder valve inadvertently. Is this a major issue? Anyone know?
Joel Reodica yes it's a simple system, two wires positive and negative and the polarity is switched to retract and apply brake and when the pad presses against the rotor the motor will stall which makes the motor draw more amps and the computer senses the higher amp draw and knows that the pad has made contact with the rotor and turns power off to the motor, no sensor wire or anything to calibrate, the rubber cap is just a dust cover to keep the bleeder screw from getting plugged up with dirt, not a big deal if it's off you just may have to clean the bleeder screw out if you ever have to bleed the brakes
Will this work on my 2006 Audi A6. Rear pads and discs need changed and I’ve been quoted £150 to do the job. If this works on mine I will be saving £100. Thanks
Thanks a million. My golf mk7 gtd will get new rear discs now. 👍
Your very welcome, thanks for watching!!!!
This was the most helpful video on this subject thank you.
Kassaundra Winters your welcome young lady, glad I could help
This works on a 2016 or newer Mazda 6 also. It’s got the same exact setup.
Awesome, great info to know, thanks for watching
I did on my Kia Optima hybrid and it worked
Awesome, glad I could help, thanks for watching
Nice ! What was the model of your car ? I have a 2015 a3 sline . Wanna know if it show you some ight in the dash because you retract the actuator mechanicly and not with a scanner?
It was a customer car, Volkswagen tt if I remember correctly, nope no lights
Just get the OBDELEVEN and avoid the possibility that this procedure will set a fault code or damage the actuator.
You will find the cost of the OBDELEVEN a fantastic value if you own a VW or Audi. You can do full diagnostics at near Dealer level and coding of options in the control modules and more.
will this work on a vauxhall insignia 2016. i should think it would would work on any car with electric park brake motor. great video southern mechanic a true money saver
Alan Dean yes as long as it is electric park brake it should work as long as it's the 2 wire system, all of the electric park brakes I have done like this have been the same, thanks for watching
thanks for this vid i had a Audi A6 Quattro 3.2L no more dealer for me i been searching around for a video like this for awhile..)))
mark19g your welcome, feels good to get away from those dealer fees for once doesn't it?
Can finally complete the work on my Audi A4...thanks. I'm powder coating that sucker now!
Sly LeBlanc your welcome, thanks for watching
Sly LeBlanc n nnnn
simple but genius. Thank you.
Diverscale your welcome, thanks for watching
Loved the video. I wonder if it would work on a 2018 Mitsubishi Outlander? It looks like the same setup.
Sorry about the late reply, youtube changed their notification system and they don't show up like they use to, it should work of it is set up the same way, this method will work on most EPB systems, thanks for watching!!!
It worked!!! It was SO easy. I can't believe I tried all sorts of other crazy things when your method was very simple and logical. Thank you!
@@preachermand5380 glad I could help!! Thanks for watching!!!
This couldn't be easier thank you
david perry your welcome, thanks for the kind comment
Thanks for posting . Easy to understand and follow .
Ady11000 thanks for the kind comment, glad it helped
Thanks for a great video! Just replaced my pads and it works, BUT I get error on my handbrake now. I can feel how the left side locks the wheels, while the right side doesen't.
Just one question, when I turned the torx clockwise to return the piston. On the right side, I turned it all the way back, but not on the left. I just pushed it back enought to fit back. I guess that's why they're not brake eaven.
What shall I do? Turn both pistons all the way back and re-do all the job? Please help me out buddy. Thanks!
Aleks K I have never had that happen but I would try to turn them in the release position as far as they will go until they stop then reinstal the gear box onto the caliper and try it again, also make sure the gear box goes back on in the correct potision without binding up and also make sure a wire or connector didn't come loose while you were working on it, you may have pinched/cut a wire or pulled a connector loose without realising it
I actually did disconnect the connectors while working with the brakes :( So what will that cause?
I will try to reinstall everything so that both pistons are all the way back (to have same base position) and then turn the brakes on.
I have to appologise for my comment. I was a real fool. As I wrote, I disconnected while I was working with the brakes. I'm embaressed to tell that I forgot to connect on one side :/ But I still did the both sides with max return of the piston and now everything works fine.
Once agan, sorry for bothering, but most of all, thanks once again for sharing this video! Cheers!
Aleks K no problem, it's the simple stuff that throws us for a loop most often, glad you figured it out, thanks for watching ☺
Can i just use my caliper wind back tool to wind the piston back in place instead of taking of the electronic parking brake motor?
Thanks for the video.
Sorry for the late reply but TH-cam for some reason just now notified me of your message but no you will have to take the motor assembly off and wind it that way because the thread system is in the opposite side with this setup, thanks for watching
@@SouthernMechanic no problem. I finally got the anchor plate bolts loose on one side without breaking them and then went to take off the motor and the torx head stripped on both bolts. So now i just got a scanner in today for the wife's car.
Once you unwind the motor back and push piston back, then replace the pads and disc, do you just function the electric handbrake and it will set itself?
Yes, just push the button like you normally would and it will take care of it
@@SouthernMechanic thanks very much, makes my life a lot easier now!!
@@leaskyd3101 awesome!!! Thanks for watching
Any idea if this will work on a newer style Honda? I have a 2017 CRV that supposedly has electric brakes but I haven't opened it up yet.
It should but I havent done a honda with EPB yet so idk for sure
Does doing this bring up any brake fault codes? I need to change the rear pads on a 2014 v6 tdi toureg
I have never had a code come up after doing this so you should be fine
I have never a code come up after doing this so you should be ok
Just another legend on youtube 👍
Worked great on the 2013 CC. Thanks man, this saved me!
Robert Echols your welcome, thanks for watching ☺
thank you my friend this video just saved me some money thank you
Kevin Wilson glad I could help ☺ thanks for watching
Thank you, thank you, thank you times a million.
You're very welcome, thanks for watching
Southern Mechanic Was doing rears today on our friends Tiguan. Got stuck pushing in the piston til I found your vid. God bless u.