I hope Toyota is watching, listening, and learning from this guy ... he's spot-on. It's wild that Toyota did this kit this way. Insane, actually. Peter is a Toyota TH-cam hero.... for real.
The aftermarket dorman has been variable in quality depending on which factory was chosen to do the product. However if it is the OE solutions line, that means an improvement was made to the design and is an actual upgraded part to prevent the same fate. Not all dorman is bad. Not all dorman is good. However some dorman is better sometimes than a defective old part. And some dorman are rebranded quality top of the line companies that were bought for the rebrand. Like some propeller shafts were rebrands of great companies. same item. but now under dorman ownership
I had similar noise in my Toyota Corolla blower motor, found out it had pieces of paper napkins in it from glove box I removed all that stuff and no more noise
Excellent job once again Peter!! Love how you show and explain everything you’re doing!! Wish I had a Toyota tech near me as thorough as you are!! I’m sure there’s a decent honest Toyota tech around me, but I haven’t found them yet!! Appreciate the content brother! God bless~
Butt splices.... Are quick though not very good, IMO. Solder and heat shrink tubing is a much better splice. Too bad they don't offer an option to supply just the terminals with the empty socket and eliminate the extra 8 connections all together, but thank you for the video and "In a while crocodile"
Very nice job on both the video and repair. Love how you go slow and deliberate with your camera and explanations. So many videos speed along like the viewer does this work every day. :)
Wire thickness reason is because the resistor cuts the current down when lowering the blower motor speeds and needs more of a thicker wire when increasing blower motor speed which draws more amperage ( hence the thick gauge of wire too compensate for the increase in amperage)
i did this on my tacoma a few years back. i jus got the new one from the dealership that had the same connecter type as the original. it came with a new connecter since the old one was burned but i didn't use it. after installing the new resistor i just packed the old connecter full of dielectric grease and it worked just fine. never had another problem out of it.
Another great video! It looked like you used the die position for uninsulated connectors on the crimp tool. I know some like to use that option because they feel it gives a stronger crimp but it can be problematic. It can damage the insulation as well as the wire inside the connector leading to a weaker crimp. It's generally best to use the proper crimp tool with the proper color coded die position. It's faster and with a good quality connector and the proper tool you'll get a perfect crimp every time.
It's good that Toyota redesigned the connector to prevent future problems. The made some wires thicker to handle more current and stay cooler so they don't burn up like the old one.
5.5 mm must be doggone close to some imperial socket size. Maybe 7/32 inch might work. I get about a 5.6 mm width inside the flat edges of a 7/32 inch socket. But I might be measuring the wrong thing. It wouldn't be the first time. Sounds like that motor bearing is worn, allowing it to rattle as it rotates. It might last another year or two. I had the same problem on my home HVAC air handler motor. The original squirrel cage blower, installed in 1979, was slightly warped, with the ends not being perfectly parallel. Millions of rotations wore the bearing such that it could move from side to side, yet had no play in the rotational direction. The thing would rattle on and off, just enough to be aggravating. So I bought a new 240 volt ball bearing motor, along with a new blower, from China. The motor only cost $100, so I bought 2 motors, since I have no HVAC if the motor burns up. You don't want to be without AC during the summer on the hot, humid Gulf coast. Having a pro do it would probably cost at least $400, if they would even work on this old unit, which I doubt, even though it is all electric, with no gas service here. When it dies I'll have to get a heat pump. That will cut my winter heating bill in half over electric resistance heat. Of course, we only need heat between mid November and mid April.
@@sc3ku That must be a rare size because I have 6 sets of metric sockets, including a 1/4 inch drive Craftsman 9 piece set, & none of them have a 5.5 mm in them. The small 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch drive ones all jump from 5 to 6 mm. You have to wonder why they wouldn't use a 5 or 6 mm on something so simple, with all the space around it. Maybe the ultimate attempt to save money because a 5mm would be too small, and a 6mm would cost a tiny fraction of a penny more to buy? Maybe 5.5 mm is a very common screw head size in Japan? Since a 7/32 inch socket measures about 5.55 mm, I wonder if they chose 5.5 mm so that US folks could use a 7/32 wrench or socket? It might also be an actual 7/32 screw for the US market, but I doubt it. A few other Imperial & metric sizes are so close that you can often use either Imperial or metric wrenches on them. Those old Craftsman sockets & tools were well made. I have some sets that were submerged in Hurricane Katrina floodwater for a week. I hosed them off and they are sitting in my garage, 50 feet from me right now in Slidell. Now they are 24 feet above sea level, instead of 4 feet below sea level in their previous New Orleans home.
I took my blower apart the brushes are totally worn out and stopped great video thanks I bought a Dorman high not working went and purchased OEM FROM DEALERSHIP $64.50 have yet to install
You don’t need to. Easily accessible under the glove box. This is a good time to also clean the air filter or replace it. Glove box removal is easy just squeeze the sides of the box to get past the stops and it drops down further exposing the cabin filter door. Press the two knobs down and the door opens up to reveal the filter. Hope this helps
I suspect the back up camera is the Alpine HCE-C1100 HDR camera. I don't own it but am currently researching for one to install and this was Crutchfield's best of 2023. It's not cheap at over $150 for just the camera, however...
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Hey Peter. A 7/32 inch standard socket also works if you don't have a 5.5mm.
The correct dorman part number for the square connector is 984693
Hugely interesting.
Peter I wish you keep doing these videos for a long time
I hope Toyota is watching, listening, and learning from this guy ... he's spot-on. It's wild that Toyota did this kit this way. Insane, actually. Peter is a Toyota TH-cam hero.... for real.
The aftermarket dorman has been variable in quality depending on which factory was chosen to do the product. However if it is the OE solutions line, that means an improvement was made to the design and is an actual upgraded part to prevent the same fate. Not all dorman is bad. Not all dorman is good. However some dorman is better sometimes than a defective old part. And some dorman are rebranded quality top of the line companies that were bought for the rebrand. Like some propeller shafts were rebrands of great companies. same item. but now under dorman ownership
I had similar noise in my Toyota Corolla blower motor, found out it had pieces of paper napkins in it from glove box I removed all that stuff and no more noise
Excellent job once again Peter!! Love how you show and explain everything you’re doing!! Wish I had a Toyota tech near me as thorough as you are!! I’m sure there’s a decent honest Toyota tech around me, but I haven’t found them yet!! Appreciate the content brother!
God bless~
Butt splices.... Are quick though not very good, IMO. Solder and heat shrink tubing is a much better splice. Too bad they don't offer an option to supply just the terminals with the empty socket and eliminate the extra 8 connections all together, but thank you for the video and "In a while crocodile"
Just changed mine out 10 minutes ago. Thanks so much for the helpful video.
Very nice job on both the video and repair. Love how you go slow and deliberate with your camera and explanations. So many videos speed along like the viewer does this work every day. :)
Wire thickness reason is because the resistor cuts the current down when lowering the blower motor speeds and needs more of a thicker wire when increasing blower motor speed which draws more amperage ( hence the thick gauge of wire too compensate for the increase in amperage)
i did this on my tacoma a few years back. i jus got the new one from the dealership that had the same connecter type as the original. it came with a new connecter since the old one was burned but i didn't use it. after installing the new resistor i just packed the old connecter full of dielectric grease and it worked just fine. never had another problem out of it.
I wish the best for you Peter. Please don't take offense to anything I say. I try my best to make consideration for your feelings
Haha Slovenia. Pretty models.
Another great video! It looked like you used the die position for uninsulated connectors on the crimp tool. I know some like to use that option because they feel it gives a stronger crimp but it can be problematic. It can damage the insulation as well as the wire inside the connector leading to a weaker crimp. It's generally best to use the proper crimp tool with the proper color coded die position. It's faster and with a good quality connector and the proper tool you'll get a perfect crimp every time.
That's the wrong connector. Looks like the one that goes in the blower motor
Very thorough explanation and camera work. Thank you.
It's good that Toyota redesigned the connector to prevent future problems. The made some wires thicker to handle more current and stay cooler so they don't burn up like the old one.
Great Effort to show the repair. Thanks so much. Health and Happiness to you
Nice that you showed how to get the difficult screw out. And you changed the plug and resister, good complete fix.
Thank you!
5.5 mm must be doggone close to some imperial socket size. Maybe 7/32 inch might work. I get about a 5.6 mm width inside the flat edges of a 7/32 inch socket. But I might be measuring the wrong thing. It wouldn't be the first time.
Sounds like that motor bearing is worn, allowing it to rattle as it rotates. It might last another year or two. I had the same problem on my home HVAC air handler motor. The original squirrel cage blower, installed in 1979, was slightly warped, with the ends not being perfectly parallel. Millions of rotations wore the bearing such that it could move from side to side, yet had no play in the rotational direction. The thing would rattle on and off, just enough to be aggravating. So I bought a new 240 volt ball bearing motor, along with a new blower, from China. The motor only cost $100, so I bought 2 motors, since I have no HVAC if the motor burns up. You don't want to be without AC during the summer on the hot, humid Gulf coast. Having a pro do it would probably cost at least $400, if they would even work on this old unit, which I doubt, even though it is all electric, with no gas service here. When it dies I'll have to get a heat pump. That will cut my winter heating bill in half over electric resistance heat. Of course, we only need heat between mid November and mid April.
This job was the first time I have ever used the 5.5 socket in my Craftsman set that I got over 15 years ago. Better late than never!
@@sc3ku That must be a rare size because I have 6 sets of metric sockets, including a 1/4 inch drive Craftsman 9 piece set, & none of them have a 5.5 mm in them. The small 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch drive ones all jump from 5 to 6 mm. You have to wonder why they wouldn't use a 5 or 6 mm on something so simple, with all the space around it. Maybe the ultimate attempt to save money because a 5mm would be too small, and a 6mm would cost a tiny fraction of a penny more to buy? Maybe 5.5 mm is a very common screw head size in Japan? Since a 7/32 inch socket measures about 5.55 mm, I wonder if they chose 5.5 mm so that US folks could use a 7/32 wrench or socket? It might also be an actual 7/32 screw for the US market, but I doubt it. A few other Imperial & metric sizes are so close that you can often use either Imperial or metric wrenches on them.
Those old Craftsman sockets & tools were well made. I have some sets that were submerged in Hurricane Katrina floodwater for a week. I hosed them off and they are sitting in my garage, 50 feet from me right now in Slidell. Now they are 24 feet above sea level, instead of 4 feet below sea level in their previous New Orleans home.
I took my blower apart the brushes are totally worn out and stopped great video thanks I bought a Dorman high not working went and purchased OEM FROM DEALERSHIP $64.50 have yet to install
Would be nice to show how to get the dash apart to get to it!
You don’t need to. Easily accessible under the glove box. This is a good time to also clean the air filter or replace it. Glove box removal is easy just squeeze the sides of the box to get past the stops and it drops down further exposing the cabin filter door. Press the two knobs down and the door opens up to reveal the filter.
Hope this helps
I suspect the back up camera is the Alpine HCE-C1100 HDR camera. I don't own it but am currently researching for one to install and this was Crutchfield's best of 2023. It's not cheap at over $150 for just the camera, however...
Great repair.
Does the 2012 tundra have a blower resistor ? Cant find one to buy. I replaced my blower motor and still the speed goes up and down by itself????
Thanks peter
Thanks.
Thx for the video. Just finished and everything worked.
can wire nuts be used????
Sure but they will get in the way of trying to conceal them away from sight.
I wish so many things in life! 😂. Peter, I love you
Justo el problema que tengo en mi Tacoma !!! Mañana ponemos manos a la obra !!!
Thank you!
Good job