Z-Offset Follow Up - SV06 With Z-Axis timing belt
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2024
- Today I have a follow up on my z-offset method and I am showing you my Z axis belt setup.
Here are the parts you will need to print for the z axis belt upgrade.
Belt tensioner: https:
//cults3d.com/:1231053
The top z bearings: https:
//www.printables.com/model/343400-sovol-sv06-top-z-bearings/comments/1245119
The Z motor mounts:
www.printables.com/model/4766...
Here is a longer filament sensor arm (in case you use a sensor attached to the Filament holder):
www.printables.com/model/4875...
Here are the items that you need to purchase (affiliate links):
The longer lead screw to put belt above top bearings:
amzn.to/3Sy19At
I added OldHam mounts to my lead screws just for good measure:
amzn.to/3tXuOtu
Here is the filament sensor that I added to my SV06:
amzn.to/3tZazeZ
Pulleys for the top of the Lead Screw:
amzn.to/3vJIpow
Pulley for the tensioner:
amzn.to/3UfEb23
Here is a belt in the perfect length for this z axis belt mod (SV06, not SV06Plus):
amzn.to/4bd9CQF
Additionally you will need some nuts and screw. That part is explained in the Tensioner Print files.
Thanks for watching
00:00 - Intro
01:02 - Z-Offset Method #1
10:28 - Z-Offset Method 2
17:57 - Z-Axis Timing Belt
31:30 - Conclusion
@ModBotArmy @TeachingTech @MakersMuse @gerGoPrint3D - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks for explaining the "but what about the paper thickness?" question.
Thank you for useful content and comprehensive explanations. Subscribed to your channel. I am new to 3d printing and also own SV06, I gradually modify and upgrade the device. Bought it to play and tinker on purpose, to get deeper understanding of this technology.
the SV06 has good bones, enjoy the jorney. Thanks for your sub.
ha, i believe you are using my 4020-adapter. nice!
Possibly. Thanks for designing it.
Great video, thank you!
Thank you
I would like to know how you set up the fans
I am running an aftermarket board that has another fan header. It is the SKR mini E3 v3.
hey I haven't been able to print a single thing with my SVO6 PLUS :(
I already bought the guide in french from cults 3d, but I don't have something clear yet, after I install the belt, how can I adjust the distance to the bed? I'm I going to be able to move the stepper motors while the belt its in place?
I do that in Klipper but you can set the z axis height (the print volume) in your slicer software.
Is there an alternate stl file for the z tensioner that is free?
I didn't find one. But I have completely redesigned the tensioner and made it way less complex. I will post a short video about it tomorrow.
Why did the flexible couplers not work?
The shaft from the stepper and the lead screw were not aligned. When I reprinted the stepper motor mounts, the shaft and the lead screw were perfectly aligned and the flex couplers were not necessary anymore. They were just not the proper fix for the problem.
How did you get a good leveled bed (if you do)? I cannot for the life of me even use a quarter of my bed since its so warped. What can I do to use my whole bed? Is the Prusa Pinda Probe better than the stock one? Also does klipper help with bed leveling?
The gantry needs to be parallel to the bed. If you have a stock Sv06 or Sv06 chances are that your gantry is not parallel to the bed, most likely sagging on the left side. The stock marlin firmware has a gantry level function which runs the gantry all the way up to the top and runs the gantry into a mechanical stop but that never really worked with my Sv06.
I ended up always using the sensor level method. If you don't know what that is, watch my videos. I have already explained that once.
@Heiko-Prints Alright got it. My gantry should be level since I use the probe method and have the lead screw belt mod. Yet I cannot use much of my bed.
How is your webcam feed so smooth? I'm using a btt pi 1.2 and it says it's going at 30fps but it's so choppy, yours is so smooth. Is it a config thing or my btt not strong enough?
The btt pi 1.2 is a pretty low power machine but for most guys it comes down to wifi bandwidth.
@@Heiko-Prints I'm using ethernet
Hey there, i was wondering if you ever had any issues with the Y-Axis, for some reason in my Sovol SV06 the bed towards the back of the printer sits lower than the front side of the bed, i have the same issues from the Z-Axis that you mention in the video but what happens to me is different than that.
I have been a little limited to what i can print or where in the printer because if i print something that uses the back side of the printer it just tends to lift from the bed or it never actually adheres to it.
Have you ever checked if your printer frame is plumb and square? If the x axis has one side lower than the other it usually has to do with the gantry not being parallel to the bed. If your y axis shows that symptom then your vertical frame isn't plumb to the bed. I hope that helps
@@Heiko-Prints i am not sure i checked that but i did something, i lifted the rods of the bed from the back by designing a similar piece of the one that comes pre-installed. I bought some parts to get the Z axis sync, after that i'll check in more detail what you are saying. Thanks for the reply!!!
What size belt for sv06?
The print surface is 235x235mm I think.
i dont know where u are getting all this shit from, u do not and i repeat do not need a pulley up top, and noooo its impossible for one side to sag. when not under power.. u cant lift one side or the other by force how would it sag. what really happens is when u power up the motors at a print one side gets the power first and moves a few thousanths then the other side. most likely the one on the left beccause its closer to the power to where it recieves the signal. motherboard. TO remedy this u put tape the couplers and make a hash alignment mark on each coupler and on each stepper motor. , so beforfee u do any print u bring the lines together and one side usually the left side moves slightly . u then align the mark the same as the other side and walla u never ever ever have to do another z align againl. i only did it one time when i first did my print, and a year later i still never lost alignment or even did a bed mesh .
there is no need to complicate things, u can print up a thing on thingverse that goes over the stepper motors, and has a pointer, that along with the hash marks on the couplers and u never have to do anything but once every few prints align the left stepper a tick or two and get the gantry lever again.
You seem to be the all out expert.
I have a Sv06 and I used the bed leveling sensor method to get my gantry parallel to the bed, I would print for the day. The next day after a night being powered off the gantry would be out of parallel again. Every single time I turn the printer off it would get out of level.
Now with a belt between the two lead screws it doesn't happen any more. There are many other bed slinger printers that use timing belt between z axis lead screws. And it works for me. I have modified the setup again, now the belt is at the bottom of the printer, completely out of the way. Btw nobody told you that you have to do this mod. If your printer is great and you have no problems with the gantry , then that is good for you. In my videos I am just showing what I am doing with my printer. Nothing more nothing less.