Greasing bearings does generally help but must be done correctly. Linear bearings typically have a seal that wipes the rod before passing into the bearing, which wipes off grease applied to the rod. The best way to grease linear bearings is to remove them from the rod and pack the inside with grease, then reinstall on the rods.
@Lost In Tech mine were really noisy, so I took it apart and filled them with Superlube. I was tempted to spend the $$$ on Misumi bearings, but not sure if the problem would return again.
With my first printer I printed Ingus style bushings to replace the loud bearings (ABS). They stayed in there for 2 years and then I got a better printer. Great video. Keep up the good work.
I have the sv01 pro and love it. I have had zero issues with it. I would like to get this new sv06 plus, but I’m a bit nervous after seeing how many people have complained not only about their sv06 but also the lack of customer service. I’m not sure if I just lucked out with the printer I received. Very nervous to risk buying this one and then have issues with it.
As a reviewer I can't really help with that tbh as I obviously get different treatment, on the flip side the people who are having most problems will naturally talk about it. At least there is a reasonable sized community for the more popular models like there was (and still is) for the ender
I doubt that running the board via USB power only through the Pi will damage said Pi. The main board's 5v rail probably can't back feed (or feed enough even) back to the 24v side. I've had some issues with 5v power draw through the Pi and USB connectivity on my Klippered Ender 3 (with a SKR 1.4 turbo, Ender LCD and BL Touch). Having my printer and webcam (Logitech C270) on at the same time caused issues when I connected my Pico board for my ADXL sensor, just would not function and do the USB handshake right. Unplugged the cam and reconnecting the Pico worked. My 5v PSU is probably not delivering enough power to compensate, but it's something to watch.
Should i try return my sv06 for this? I am having terrible gantry leveling issues. I've tried everything but changing the stock firmware(voids warranty), gotten live help from people who have had the printer for months on the 3dprinting discord but no matter what one side wont stay level
So if you can just print a new fan shroud and move the probe can you use the Volcano nozzles without issue? I'm guessing you could also get a real volcano heatblock and swap it out
Seems great, but I can't understand why the still control the two Z motors from a single driver. I understand that are all Creality electronics and that using them is a way to cut cost. But the next iteration should bring independent Z and proper open source resources for everything.
independent z is not an advantage, in my experience belt synced single driver stays in sync longest. I don't get why people like independent Z, it needs constantly calibrating.
@@LostInTech3D Because it's much more precise. You cannot get a belt-driven, manually adjusted leadscrew down to 0.0025mm of variation consistently and repeatably. Most of the misalignments are due to the power-off, power-on cycles that energise the coils and shift the axial position. It's also quite common to have a bit of residual forces that act on the leadscrews and are opposed by the holding torque if the motor, and that move it ever so slightly when it's powered off. This is not something related to belts. Also, why constant? With a couple of (properly installed) anti-backlash nuts the position is kept quite reliably. Note: without mentioning the fact that it's a completely automated calibration process, given a Z probe.
The sv06 uses not a creality Mainboard, its a custom one, otherwise the printer wouldn't function, sensorless homing doesn't with standalone drivers like on the creality boards. But are the z stepper even synced on the sv06 plus? The regular sv06 did the prusa tram (ramming the gantry to z max at low stepper current), not sure how it does on the plus
@@LostInTech3D i would also say that synced z is better than dual z drivers with bed based tramming, i prefer endstop based alignment like the old anycubic mega series had. That ensures that the gantry is always perpendicular to the z axis once set up. With dual independent z and leveling screws its an absolute nightmare as both affect each other and create basically an undefined loop
@@kilianlindlbauer8277It's a v2.2.1 board, essentially a rebranded Creality 4.2.7 with TMC2209 instead of the 2208. Otherwise, it's pretty much pin compatible, it's evident even from the photos. Gantry tramming doesn't work very well unless you have the top of the frame fused in a single piece. An aluminium extrusion or rod with angular links aren't a guarantee of squareness - quite the opposite. That's why it sees so little use outside of the Prusa MK3.
Are you in the UK? I've seen them in a few places but this was in a "blue diamond" garden centre, which is a lot cheaper than other places, I think they were 3 for £9
Didn't catch the linear rail diameter on this, hope its 10 or 12mm. little disappointed with extruder weight and mount in consideration of CG on SV06 alot like tail wagging the dog.
It will fit a volcano nozzle with a bit of rejigging of the cooling fan, it might work as is, I ran out of time to try it...they give you a spare nozzle too. The bigger worry would be availability, but none of this can't be solved really I don't think. I would have preferred standard volcano myself though 🤷🏼♂️
I hate it. Not the printer but I ordered the normal sv06 and three weeks later they announced the plus version and I couldn‘t send mine back because it was already 3 weeks old.
Reviewers get machines with good qc. My sv06 is waiting on a second round of parts, as I got bad bearings, a cracking extruder mount, and some hard-to-troubleshoot extruder/flow issues. Not the friendliest intro to 3d printer, but I'll take it as a learning experience
@@LostInTech3D at least it seems strange that there seem to be not less people who received a sv06 with bad linear bearings or uneven heatbeds but none of the reviewers... it could be coincidence but as a reviewer you can also not be sure If you got sent a better qc-checked printer than the normal customer.( affects all manufacturers,not only sovol)
I have a bearing that needs replacing on this printer so I'll be doing a video on that. I usually document what I find, on other printers I've had to even drill holes 🤣
These reviews seldom list bed heat-up time nor nozzle heating times. It is aggravating to start up a cold printer and have to wait for everything to get up to temp. One reason I love my Artillery printers with a 115volt bed. VERY fast heat-up.
The Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus beats this in bed and height printer size and although has no 300 c volcano hot end, it could be fitted easy enough at a low cost. and price wise is lower than the SV06 even after changing the money into good old pounds from dollars! This be after the SV06 Price rises to the $299. And the New Elegoo 3 Max is $470 and is huge so Sovol be having problems to beat Elegoo whom are at the peak of 3d Printer Design in the Hobby level.
Huge laugh!, they can't even make them work properly most of the time. Between beds doing the Star Trek warping and firmware errors I mean common I'm not a coder. I am a fool at best. Thanks for bringing us this it's a great fireside chat or vent sorry going little nuts as of late though. I had to watch it again and it was VERY ZEN and funny again sorry for the rant.
Greasing bearings does generally help but must be done correctly. Linear bearings typically have a seal that wipes the rod before passing into the bearing, which wipes off grease applied to the rod. The best way to grease linear bearings is to remove them from the rod and pack the inside with grease, then reinstall on the rods.
yes - will cover this in future
I did that on the Y axis bearings.
Started to get noisy again after a few days.
Yeah you have to keep adding it until you have a certain amount, it's a pain which is why people prefer to pre load them.
@Lost In Tech mine were really noisy, so I took it apart and filled them with Superlube.
I was tempted to spend the $$$ on Misumi bearings, but not sure if the problem would return again.
Fun though it would be I think the law of diminishing returns is probably a good reason to stop after adding super lube 🤣
Just ordered one, can't wait for it to arrive. Going to be my second printer.
Do you have an ETA?
@@Kevin000 Not yet. Will share it with you if a get an ETA. It is the EU warehouse.
Updates ??
@@mindless9965 ETA is around 15-20 of april.
With my first printer I printed Ingus style bushings to replace the loud bearings (ABS). They stayed in there for 2 years and then I got a better printer.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
"Tube Grease." I need to get me some "Can Beer."
Tube Lube would have been a better name.
I have the sv01 pro and love it. I have had zero issues with it. I would like to get this new sv06 plus, but I’m a bit nervous after seeing how many people have complained not only about their sv06 but also the lack of customer service. I’m not sure if I just lucked out with the printer I received. Very nervous to risk buying this one and then have issues with it.
As a reviewer I can't really help with that tbh as I obviously get different treatment, on the flip side the people who are having most problems will naturally talk about it. At least there is a reasonable sized community for the more popular models like there was (and still is) for the ender
The customer service is pretty bad. I went with elegoo products couldn't be more happy
+1 for the lithop advice! We have a couple splitting right now and didn’t know that.
Great review. I would like to get my hands on one of these!
Wow its barely more expensive then the Sv06. Can't wait to get my hands on one of these.
I doubt that running the board via USB power only through the Pi will damage said Pi. The main board's 5v rail probably can't back feed (or feed enough even) back to the 24v side. I've had some issues with 5v power draw through the Pi and USB connectivity on my Klippered Ender 3 (with a SKR 1.4 turbo, Ender LCD and BL Touch). Having my printer and webcam (Logitech C270) on at the same time caused issues when I connected my Pico board for my ADXL sensor, just would not function and do the USB handshake right. Unplugged the cam and reconnecting the Pico worked. My 5v PSU is probably not delivering enough power to compensate, but it's something to watch.
yeah - I've done it enough times, but I'm covering my backside, its probably fine!
I ordered mine today, but don't expect to see it till mid April. With that said, my SV06 came about 10 days early.
Should i try return my sv06 for this? I am having terrible gantry leveling issues. I've tried everything but changing the stock firmware(voids warranty), gotten live help from people who have had the printer for months on the 3dprinting discord but no matter what one side wont stay level
changing stock firmware won't void your warranty I don't think, feel free to hop into our discord and I will help where I can
So if you can just print a new fan shroud and move the probe can you use the Volcano nozzles without issue? I'm guessing you could also get a real volcano heatblock and swap it out
I think so yes
How is it printing at high speeds? Normally people say that large bed slingers will make bad prints at high speed, but is it the same for this one?
Well, if you tune pressure advance, not so bad. It will be nice to see a build with input shaping, a community one will exist soon I believe
allignment pins on the bed for the flex plate? yesssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
Haha yes very useful those are for big beds!
I want to see this with marlin 2.1.2 and input shaping
I may actually build that when I get hold of the source code
The best part starts at 3:21 :)
Well, the printer is pretty too.
Hah
Gosh I've never been that lucky I was just going to buy the s6😅
Does the new one also have that bed leveling issue where right side of the bed is always lower than the left side?
Well...no. if you have technical issues then I'm sure someone on Facebook, our discord or their tech support can fix it.
Seems great, but I can't understand why the still control the two Z motors from a single driver. I understand that are all Creality electronics and that using them is a way to cut cost. But the next iteration should bring independent Z and proper open source resources for everything.
independent z is not an advantage, in my experience belt synced single driver stays in sync longest. I don't get why people like independent Z, it needs constantly calibrating.
@@LostInTech3D Because it's much more precise. You cannot get a belt-driven, manually adjusted leadscrew down to 0.0025mm of variation consistently and repeatably. Most of the misalignments are due to the power-off, power-on cycles that energise the coils and shift the axial position. It's also quite common to have a bit of residual forces that act on the leadscrews and are opposed by the holding torque if the motor, and that move it ever so slightly when it's powered off. This is not something related to belts. Also, why constant? With a couple of (properly installed) anti-backlash nuts the position is kept quite reliably.
Note: without mentioning the fact that it's a completely automated calibration process, given a Z probe.
The sv06 uses not a creality Mainboard, its a custom one, otherwise the printer wouldn't function, sensorless homing doesn't with standalone drivers like on the creality boards.
But are the z stepper even synced on the sv06 plus? The regular sv06 did the prusa tram (ramming the gantry to z max at low stepper current), not sure how it does on the plus
@@LostInTech3D i would also say that synced z is better than dual z drivers with bed based tramming, i prefer endstop based alignment like the old anycubic mega series had. That ensures that the gantry is always perpendicular to the z axis once set up. With dual independent z and leveling screws its an absolute nightmare as both affect each other and create basically an undefined loop
@@kilianlindlbauer8277It's a v2.2.1 board, essentially a rebranded Creality 4.2.7 with TMC2209 instead of the 2208. Otherwise, it's pretty much pin compatible, it's evident even from the photos. Gantry tramming doesn't work very well unless you have the top of the frame fused in a single piece. An aluminium extrusion or rod with angular links aren't a guarantee of squareness - quite the opposite. That's why it sees so little use outside of the Prusa MK3.
Where'd you get the lithops? I've been looking for one for a while without any luck
Are you in the UK? I've seen them in a few places but this was in a "blue diamond" garden centre, which is a lot cheaper than other places, I think they were 3 for £9
@@LostInTech3D I am, I forgot to mention that lol. I'll keep an eye out for that brand of garden centre, thanks!
Neptune 3 plus or sovol sv6 pro? What is better for beginner?
Haha isn't mister meeseeks supposed to know that?
I did a comparison of sv06 and Neptune. Same applies to the plus versions
@@LostInTech3D thanks😆
Didn't catch the linear rail diameter on this, hope its 10 or 12mm. little disappointed with extruder weight and mount in consideration of CG on SV06 alot like tail wagging the dog.
10mm
Guess there will be a sv06 Max later this year.
🤣
The nice low entry cost to it has me worried the nozzles are going to be where they actually make their profit by selling them at a premium
It will fit a volcano nozzle with a bit of rejigging of the cooling fan, it might work as is, I ran out of time to try it...they give you a spare nozzle too. The bigger worry would be availability, but none of this can't be solved really I don't think. I would have preferred standard volcano myself though 🤷🏼♂️
i want them to put these upgrades into a new 04 idex
Haha, yes more idex.
I hate it. Not the printer but I ordered the normal sv06 and three weeks later they announced the plus version and I couldn‘t send mine back because it was already 3 weeks old.
Reviewers get machines with good qc. My sv06 is waiting on a second round of parts, as I got bad bearings, a cracking extruder mount, and some hard-to-troubleshoot extruder/flow issues. Not the friendliest intro to 3d printer, but I'll take it as a learning experience
Haha, if only that were true :) Most of the time we just get them sent from the same fulfilment centers you do.
@@LostInTech3D at least it seems strange that there seem to be not less people who received a sv06 with bad linear bearings or uneven heatbeds but none of the reviewers... it could be coincidence but as a reviewer you can also not be sure If you got sent a better qc-checked printer than the normal customer.( affects all manufacturers,not only sovol)
I have a bearing that needs replacing on this printer so I'll be doing a video on that. I usually document what I find, on other printers I've had to even drill holes 🤣
@expedio74 Angus at maker's muse had some issues with the sv06, but yeah, the positive reviews seem more common when people get early access
These reviews seldom list bed heat-up time nor nozzle heating times. It is aggravating to start up a cold printer and have to wait for everything to get up to temp. One reason I love my Artillery printers with a 115volt bed. VERY fast heat-up.
Good idea actually - I will add that to my data collection, keep an eye out for that on the next review, I'll time the SV06 plus and include it.
This seems like an answer to the CR10 Smart Pro, very similar.
The only big creality I've used was the s1 plus which I think is somewhat better than the cr10 smart, at least from what I've heard
The Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus beats this in bed and height printer size and although has no 300 c volcano hot end,
it could be fitted easy enough at a low cost. and price wise is lower than the SV06 even after changing the money into good old pounds from dollars! This be after the SV06 Price rises to the $299.
And the New Elegoo 3 Max is $470 and is huge so Sovol be having problems to beat Elegoo whom are at the peak of 3d Printer Design in the Hobby level.
I have both of those, reviews coming ASAP
Huge laugh!, they can't even make them work properly most of the time. Between beds doing the Star Trek warping and firmware errors I mean common I'm not a coder. I am a fool at best. Thanks for bringing us this it's a great fireside chat or vent sorry going little nuts as of late though. I had to watch it again and it was VERY ZEN and funny again sorry for the rant.