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Hi, would you know why my Z offset settings after saving are not being applied to the print jobs I attempt? It's almost as if the settings aren't being saved even if it says it saved in config. I'm really struggling here and have been trying to figure this out for a few weeks now.

What confuses me is the polarity of the Z offset. Also with an inductive probe there will always be a gap between the nozzle and the bed when the probe fires, but with a Voron TAP, or a load cell where the nozzle itself IS the probe, there will be NO gap between the bed and the nozzle when the probe fires, and in fact the nozzle may be "below the bed" when the probe fires as the nozzle will be applying a little force to the bed at that time. So if the nozzle is too low after probing (first layer squished) do I need a positive value of Z offset or negative? If the nozzle is too high after probing (inductive probe usually), which way do I move the z offset?

What's the answer in one sentence? I don't have 22 minutes to delve into a single parameter

The reason people use paper is a) it's a fairly predictable thickness; and b) everyone has it - not everyone has a feeler gauge.

Bravo!

Extraordinaria explicación y en un ingles tan claro que lo he podido seguir de punta a punta. gracias . Were are you from?

Great video. Helped alot. Thank you!

This is Just GOLD

Hey you! Yes YOU! Thank you! I installed mainsail to get the same ui you had and successfully managed to calibrate everything, your explanations where top notch nd very practical, and in 20 minutes i'l have my first PETG calibration cube done, Stringing and bed adhesion are a thing of a past when you printer is calibrated with right values! T H A N K Y O U!

Excellent resource! Thank you! I just went down the Klipper rabbit hole recently, but it's all finally coming together with my Anycubic Chiron and soon my Ender 3 V 2's and Ender 3!

How much friction is too much between the nozzle and the bed?

Did you wait at least 10 mins after starting heating? at least with my neptune 4 max i cant get consistent first layer prints, z is always off, i think because of preheating duration differences or lack of enclosure in an ambient temp that is cool 64f

Great video, you my friend are far from ignorant. This is one of the most straight foward z_offset videos I have watched. I could not for the life of me get z_offset figured out in Klipper. I have not problem in Marlin. Just some reason I struggled in Klipper, thank you so much.

Thanks for a very clearly explained system for setting z offset.

does this z offset get clear id you have a auto calibrate set up before each print?

Now i struggled with Z-offset on Klipper since i installed it (about a week, that is) and yesterday i stumbled on your video and everything just made sense! Tonight i made the adjustments and it is really that simple. And i realized that yeah, i can still do the probe_calibration with piece of paper, but it''s the offset part that is critical. Thanks!

Thank you for your video! I notice a difference with my printer: Neptune4Pro running klipper with a fluidd interface. When you saved your Z Offset on the interface, next time you booted up, the Z Offset displayed 0.000 again. However, When I do so, the value I set it to remains. Is that just a difference in how our dashboards / firmware versions handle the Z Offset? Or am I saving it wrong...?

can you share the stl of the center camera mount?

As a German engineer, I've never been able to wrap my head around the paper method. Your feeler gauge method is immediately intuitive for me. Thank you for this great video.

Very interesting and helpful 👍😍 Since i'm migrated my Wanhao D12 ro Klipper i was annoyed with my Z-Offset setup. I was using the Z-Offset of Klipper but now i found your trick so easy and simple. I will try it soon 🤪

This was great and you explained it very simply for a noob like myself. Worked like a champ.

Great thanks 👍

Thank you! ☺️

I was searching for a good in expensive feeler gauge, and then I started trying to think of common objects with standard thickness, so that I didn't have to wait. The ISO standard for a credit card is 0.76 mm. It may not be perfect, but it's way better than a sheet of paper, and could provide a head start on baby stepping.

It's weird to me that people would come here and argue that paper is better. It's not like you're forcing them to use your method.

Thanks, Heiko, I also prefer the feeler gage method because it's a finite measurement opposed to just "paper". I Kept looking for the right paper, or they would get damaged or lost, etc. Once I bought my long set of feeler gages and got a PAD7 things have been much easier. Just to be clear, so the first layer should be the arbitrary distance? Can you please explain why the first layer is .3?

How is doing things the right way being ignorant? No feeler gauges are the ONLY correct way to do this.

This is by the far the most accurate way of setting Z offset. I really found this video very helpful and thank you so much for sharing. A feeler gauge definitely outperforms paper for consistency and accuracy. 😍👍

forgive me if you already mentioned it in the video, how does this mod differ to other z-axis mod you did in another video?

Thank you for sharing, I will give this a try. Thanks again!!

I have one of the new QIDI Q1 Pro printers and was having issues with first layer. Followed the steps in this video, set it for 0.2 initial layer (default for Prusa, Orca, QIDI slicers) with a feeler gauge and now I get perfect first layer prints. I may try checking z offset at higher temps for like ABS and see if there's any temperature creeping. Thanks for the sound advice. One of the best videos I've seen on this crucial topic.

Thank you very much for sharing, your content is really valuable for me) I did this mod today, everything is fine so far. Cost me $36 in total, ordered everything from aliexpress. I think I am almost done with my SV06 upgrades for now. OrangePi Zero 2, Klipper, printed case for OrangePi, which uses PSU fan exhaust as the source of airflow, Z-axis upper brackets with bearings, z-axis stepper mounts, 5v led lighting on a gantry, Logi270 webcam+printed mount, Tasmota controlled smart power strip, BTT HDMI 5" touchscreen, printed side mounted touchscreen case with tilt and turn adjustment, this z-axis mod. Plus some minor printed things like v-slot covers, tool holder, heatbed strain relief e.t.c. Now waiting for accelerometer to arrive)

When you said you know only one other video where it is explained correct, i was betting you are going to say makers muse! Very good video and perfectly explained. Ich denke eine kleine grafik (schnell ins CAD geschmiert) haette noch sehr gut beim erklaeren unterstuetzt.

Hey there, i was wondering if you ever had any issues with the Y-Axis, for some reason in my Sovol SV06 the bed towards the back of the printer sits lower than the front side of the bed, i have the same issues from the Z-Axis that you mention in the video but what happens to me is different than that. I have been a little limited to what i can print or where in the printer because if i print something that uses the back side of the printer it just tends to lift from the bed or it never actually adheres to it.

What size belt for sv06?

Excelente trabajo, muy bien, voy aplicarlo a mi impresora, Felicidades!, saludos desde México

Great video thank you so much! but unfortunately for me when I save and retry the process it doesnt seem to actaully save, I've tried multiple times now and after homing the offset is as it always was again. I tried to also update the factory_printer.cfg itself with the new values but its not working either. I wonder if you are able to help shine a light on this for me? thanks again for the great video

I had to go up by 0.120 but when I save config it says “Option ‘z_offset’ in section ‘bltouch’ must have minimum of 0.0 how do I get it to save at that height?

I would like to know how you set up the fans

The Klipper documentation is clear on this. You set an arbitrary distance between the nozzle and bed while cold to account for nozzle expansion. This distance happens to be about the thickness of a sheet of paper, .100mm. When at temp (typically 200C or above) your nozzle will come very close to the bed but not perfectly 0. You don't want 0. You MUST allow for material to flow and not be sheared by the nozzle movement in order to attain proper squish. The first layer is never perfect accurate compared to successive layers, but must stick. Bed adhesion and squish is most important. Your cumulative error will fade out over a certain height.

question, did you have to switch any wires on the stepper motors? when I plug in the dual shaft motors i hear a click and klipper disconects, i plug in the stock stepper motors and it works, I also tried combination of stock and new motors in case 1 motor was bad but had the same problem anytime a new motor was plugged in.

Good tutorial, I didn't read to see if someone else asked this, but are you concerned about the metal feeler gauge scratching the PEI sheet? Also, do you have any recommendations regarding self-Z Offset printers such as the Ender 3 V3 KE? It's supposed to fully do it automatically. However, I've heard you cannot trust it and if you run a calibration again, you will lose the offset you performed via Klipper.

I’m rebuilding an old i3 clone, and was wondering how to do this. It used bent metal uprights which surround the lead screws, so putting a timing belt up top would be challenging. But putting it underneath would work, especially if I do the z brace mod to add a centimeter or so of clearance. Good timing!

I just started converting to a klipper printer and looking around youtube vid tutorials to where i am at, i thought this is a big channel already found out with sub 1k? This channel needs more than that. More power to your channel!

Absolutely great tutorial! I just installed/configured Klipper on a Big Tree Tech Klipper Pad 7 I just bought to use Klipper with my older printer, a Tevo Tornado. Your video gave me the best method and understanding on how to set my Z-offset. Keep the videos coming!

Great tutorial, exactly what I have been looking for! Thank you for taking the time and the work doing this for all of us!!!

I looked on Amazon USA for that stepper motor and the cost is crazy. Guess I'll have to buy direct from China.

I've been using a feeler gauge for years but for some reason it seems that 0.05mm gauge works best for me. Maybe it's just because of what I consider "feeling resistance" but also reminds me i need to get a new gauge