So I followed this guide this evening with my SV 06 Plus. Touch wood all is working again and I think it's definitely quieter. The fan is now by far the loudest thing. Thanks for putting this together! Overall it took me about 2h 30 mins, as I did it carefully, although I put the Z axis bars in upside down so the extruder would have been facing backwards, doh, I unscrewed and was able to put it the right way around, all good. So yeah, thanks again! Without this guide I would never have been able to do it.
Your video helped me to decide that the SV 06 will be my first 3D Printer. For me, it is essential to have a silent printer, and it looks like I can achieve that with only a bit of grease on the SV 06.
Glad you like it, I have second unit of sv06. Going to do a full assembly, bed level, calibration guide, and some other common found issues. It is really great machine in the end of day, but it needs a lot patience to play around, same for any budget 3d printers. Happy printing.
Wish the SV's were out, or I knew about them, when I bought my Artillery Genius. It's a good printer, don't get me wrong, but I'm not a fan of skateboard wheels being responsible for holding my hotend in. Or keeping linear torsion on the z.
For me, to remove the X axis carriage to get at the bearings, the easiest and least potentially harmful way, was once the z-axis rods and the tensioner have been removed, grab a rod in each hand and use your thumbs and forefingers to EVENLY apply force to the end block. Initially, there was a moderate amount of resistance, but once it started to slide, it came off readily. Obviously, it would be a good idea to remove any grease on the rods before using this method to get at the bearings. Great video overall.
Thanks for the video! I was able to easily get the X axis gantry apart by GENTLY tapping the right side injection molding component off with a small hammer. After that I was able to take the extruder mount apart and get the bearings out and pack them with grease.
@8:45 The rods will come out fairly easily if you twist each side of the gantry a little in opposite directions... just a few slight twists while pulling outward and one side will pop out easily. We really need to get the grease packed inside the bearing for it to be effective. The rest of the video helped me get my SV06 plus setup - I disassembled the printer enough to do this job right out the box from new.
Thank you for the video SavageLau! New owner of the same model and the stock bearings were noisy from the beginning. I tried to just do the easy way and wipe some grease onto the bars but it wasn't enough. Followed your steps and the stock bearings had no lube to begin with! I'm surprised they ship out like that. Instead of buying a new set of Mitsumi bearings which would've been around $100 with shipping, this helps keep the budget down and only requires a bit of work. At the same time I installed the printed heat bed cable support to prevent issues in the future. I'm hoping someone will do a filament sensor install video. Keep the SV06 videos coming!
Nice video ! Your channel could become a reference for SV06 owners. One nice future video could be about how to make the sv06 super quiet with new fans.
Thanks m8, your video helped me grease the SV06 very nicely. I had some problem with the Auto Z-Align, it went up two third, the right motor didnt spin witht the same speed as the left one, and started to give out the sound, as it would've when reaching the top. I had to reset it twice, and pull out/ insert the motor cables again, by the third time everything went well.
Wow, fantastic video. This was the how too video I was looking for. You made it look easy. I was able to repack the Y-Axis bearings but the balls fell out of one of the bearings. I replaced the Y-axis with Igus Drylin temporarily until a higher quality bearing can be sourced that isn't astronomically expensive. Thank you for a great video
Thanks! I totally agree with that, a lot people on FB group were mentioned go for Misumi LMU8, but it cost $13 each. A total of $130 before tax, which is a lot of money. It make this budget printer no longer "budget". How the IGUS bearing goes?( Noise, vibration, printer quality)
@@SvgLau The print quality is very good. The bearing noise is nonexistent. Vibration really hasn't been as issue that has affected my print quality. At $13 for 12 bearings I felt like it was a risk worth taking and I am pleasantly pleased with them. My main and only concern is the slight tolerance issue. When the hotbed hits the y-stop the bed will cant slightly. However this only occurs during some calibration operations. During print operations this has not been as issue. Linear movements are smooth. I did print three PLA+ linear bearings that seems to have a slightly tighter tolerance. I may try those. I too didn't want to spend the cash for the Misumi bearings. So, I also picked up 12 metal CNC lm8uu bearings on ebay. I tried a few of them and found their tolerances to be extremely loose fitting. I think for the moment the Igus bearings will stay and are the best bank for the buck. I want to replace the x-axis bearings as mine are quite crunchy sounding. I'll try your lubrication approach on the x-axis. Hopefully I can get enough grease in there to resolve the issue. I would really like to either pack them thoroughly or replace them with the Igus bearings. My next project will be the 608zz bearing for the z-axis screw to reduce that wobble. This is great printer and I feel that most of the issues I've had are the bearings.
@@benjaminhobbs3964 I think igus bearing will come losses after center among of printing assignments, but we are talking about hundreds of hours. I have tested the blue injection modeling part, it is very brittle. I think it may need a slide hammer to pull from back, the linear rod housing on x axis are really tight fit, any force apply it in a angle may cause damage. I am also planning to put a bearing on top, instead of print those blue block parts I would more prefer cnc one.
@@SvgLau The "normal" Igus bearings are intended to be placed in a holder applying pre-tension to them. For the Prusa mk3s and Prusa Mini are special holders to use them on the bed and properly tension them on printables. Maybe they can be adapted to the SV06, as this printer has some simularitys to the prusas... I do not have the SV06, but if the housing for x is stiff, acually a direct change might work (if you can do the change without breaking the injection molded part). Actually, as injection molding is more precise than 3d-printed parts, self-lubricating brass bushings might work also. Practicly no wear, not as quite as Igus but much less noisy than bearings. No pretension needed.
okay to compare, I don't have nearly the same amount of noise on my machine, I suspect that they've oiled them a bit. I'll try the easy way for a while and will do a full teardown and maitenance cycle next year
I just bought one of these printers to try making things myself and wondered what the grease tube was for. Of course I happened to wait until after I assembled it to look it up, but looks easy enough to take care of. First test print without greasing anything seemed fine, I'm not too worried about having a perfect print, just want to try and make it work as long as possible.
X axis can be taken apart just by pulling the sides and gently wiggling them. It took 10 seconds to me to remove the right side. if you still have loosened belt, you will notice it tightening - that means sides are moving.
Actually the reason ballbearings are used at all mainly is about toleraces. Brass bushings (with graphite embedded) and Polymer bushings (Igus) are self lubricating and much quiter. But they are also much more precise and have lower tolerances than ball bearings. For a long time I had problems swaping to theese type of bushings, bed or x-cariage having layer skips. The problem is a staticly over constrained system. For example the x-axis. The upper rod already restrict movement between the printhead and the rod in y and z-direction, also rotation around z and y. still it can move in x (which we want of course) but also tilt around the x-rod. To avoid tilting around the x-rod, the second x-rod is needed. But the bearing on the second rod has the same restrictions as on the first rod. Actually, the second rod need only restrict movement between the rod and printhead in y-direction, as restricting on two positions in y avoid the printhead rotating around the x-axis. All the other restrictions are over constrainment. Overconstraining means every slight disalignment, be it because of manufactoring tolerances or different thermal expansion or contraction on temperature changes, have to be compensated by tolerances of the bearings or by elasticity of parts. So simply change to more precise, silent and less service-intensitive bushings often fail. Personally I found my solution for this problem last week: I simply designed an Igus-style bushing with a modified inside hole. The hole is now two half-cylinders with a diameter of 8mm and a cube 8*1mm² between. so in one direction this design has a (very big) tolerance of 1mm. With this direction orientet verticaly, now missalinment in z do not matter anymore - only the upper rod hold the printhead in z (we are talking about micrometers the rods might be off). I tried it on my prusa mini. I replaced the upper bearing by a very precise self lubricating brass bushing and the lower bearing by my self designed bushing. While while restriction against rotaiting around y still is over constrained, this does not seem to be an issue. Just taking off the overcoonstrain against z-movement and y-tilting did the trick. The other point is the y-axis. On the Prusas (mini and mk3s) on the left are two bearins in line, on the right is only one bearing. On my mini I had problems with brass bushings, as I did not get alligned pefectly, so I got to much friction. But two Igus bushings (with a mount allowing pretesinon them adjustable) worked. Still, for the other y rod an Igus bushing leads to a blocking bed. I have not tried my modified bushing jet (with horizontal oriented longer inner hole), as using a Ruthex bushing (practicly an Igus bushing with elastic o-rings) worked fine. So if you realy want the printer to be much quiter and low mainanance, you should try bushings instead of bearings. But you might think a bit how to do the statics more constrained and less overconstrained. By the way - I think the reason most entry level printers use v-wheels is their elastisity, as this helps in case of overconstrained systems with not-perfect allignment. You can get away with a lot of wrong doings using some rubber... While my comment is about the test I did on prusas, it might be usefull for the SV06 too, as it is heavaly "mk3s-inspired"
Great info! I work on Mk3s a lot back in the day. I have encounter few time bearing related issue, like noise, dirt, and other. It is not much quieter than sv06 in my opinion. Due to the bearing that they use and the nature of ball bearing. But I actually have more problem with mk3s then sv06 from my user experiences. I am going to try some different grease on the bearing later on and see if they make any differences.
Has anyone figured out if the Z axis bearings can actually be removed? Also you can use two rods, one from each end to pack the bearings, this helps a tons with the Z bearings as there are two and it helps to lesson the amount of lube that gets in between.
Some people remove it by use a sidely bigger size socket then the rod. The rod od is 8mm, so it should be easy to find a right size socket. but i dont think it is necessary to remove the bearings to pack lube on it, as you mentioned it could done without remove it.
@@SvgLau ya it was mostly for doing a full igus drylin bearing swap. When I first packed my bearings I did apply some pressure on the z bearings to see if they came out for cleaning, but didn’t want to break anything.
I get my sv06 plus tomorrow from amazon. I will be performing this lubrication procedure as soon as I open printer box. Should I get Klipper for my sv06 plus? Is it a recommended upgrade? Thank You for sharing your time!
I've got two grindy x axis bearings to replace, shame that you couldn't figure out how to slide them off. Still a helpful video for checking the z bearings
hello, thanks for all your awesome videos about the sv06. I have one question, do you maybe know the stepper motor specifications since I cant find a data sheet on the internet for them. I need the resistance and inductance, because I want to tune the stepper motor drivers.
Sorry, I don't have any information regarding that. I think there are some people who post about this on github. Or, directly contact cs from fb group would be an easy way to figure it out.
You should check out the official sovol plus video for lubing the bearings. It looks easier just popping the top portion and not touching the lead screws. I just received my plus and the bearings are dry. So I need to do mine. It wouldn't allow me to post a link.
What a difference that made and super simple machine to work on. I thought it would be annoying to lube all of the bearings, but it was quick and simple. Definitely just screw them off the top and don't even mess with the lead screws. Thanks for the video it has made such a difference in the way the machine sounds.
As long it works, I was going to lube it with super sticky red grease that I use to grease my garage door wheel track...lol, good thing I didn't do it. Bit super lube works grease so far, currently just put sv06 printing with abs 24hours per day for the past week. Linear rod still looks free of scratch.
Yup this was a strange one. I don't think I've ever bought a machine that didn't come lubricated from factory before I got my SV06. I lubed up everything before I even turned it on. It was very dry to touch and I know that you should never run any machine like that.
@@SvgLau with inexperienced people this could be a huge problem in a very short time. The least they could do is include a little tube of grease with the packaging and add a lubrication step in their setup guide.
Is the Super Lube compatible with the grease that is (poorly) applied to the stock SV06? I would much rather continue to maintain lubrication the easy way, rather than complete disassembly. Well done and informative video!
Yes, You can apply super lube over the stock one, it won't hurt. The only thing is that the lube will not do much within the bearing, since there are rubber covers block dust and lube from getting inside.
@@wesleykelly4127 I don't think it is necessary to use that. But since you have the tool, you can try it, make sure you don't use water. The bearing will be rust, also becareful with the balls inside the bearing, I have seen people mentioned the balls fall out from bearing.
@@SvgLau That's the plan, I need to know this device way better if I want to take most of it apart, put it back together and not screw something up on the way. But you made a really nice guide for it. But you made a really nice guide for this entire process.
@@SvgLau well, some of my bearing just couldn't be saved, no matter how much lube I'd pump into them some still sound like someone put sand there instead. I replaced all of them with some polymer bearings. Night nad day difference.
Great and very useful video! Apart from the noise, do you think print quality has improved noticeably after this? (maybe with a calibration cube). I haven't received my printer yet but I'll save your video for the future.
I have not print anything big yet after lube. The test cubic come out with a sighly better layer(not big improvement, since printer quality before is good. I will let you know after I run some test today.
I have been run prototyping on this printer since it's lube. Now I can tell you there are some print quality improve after lube. But I really appreciate how quiet it is now, I stay same room with printer while it's printing.
I have a quick question. I recently got my sv06 and I am new to 3D printing. When my gantry is moving up and down there some creaking noises, I think its more noticeable when going down. I feel like the noises also there when its moving in x and y directions as well. Did you have that as well? Do you think the lube will fix it?
The creaking noises is from the motion of bearing. Lube should be able to help, in my case it reduce a lot after lube. I could barely hear it in a low speed printing, but still could hear a bit during high speed print. If the sound is not sounds like scratching mental sounds it should be fine.
@@raghavpottabathini9099 I think it is some early production QC problem. They all like this among 3d printer manufactuers. But, from my experience with sovol in the past, they are doing some continue improvments. (I have two sv01 bought at different time). But my question is, how much they(production engineers/QC team) consider this problem. In other word, if they think it big enough that would be a deal break for most people, they will adress this quickly. However, if it is cost lot to change bearing supplyer or they don't think it is big a deal, then, that's another story.
If you can put it back together with less parts than you started and it still works, it means that it was over engineered and now you are saving weight. right?
From engineer perspective all the parts should have it's purpose. Over engineering or deisgn mean create unnecessary cost for production. But , whatEVER I have disassemblyed and reassemblyed all left spared bolts at the end. (cars, electronics, etc..)😂
at this point why not change the beariong for dry one like the DryLin Igus? i head they do a way betert job than base one. and is nbot specialy more expensive taht buy oil and suply.
YES, it can just wreck your bearings and rails over time, every youtuber recommends it to get a percentage from referral links, in specialized forums and discord servers recommends Lithium soap based grease, no particulates (so no PTFE, no molly etc), NLGI grade 0 to 2, optimally with EP additives, It cost way less than superlube. If you are undecided, buy mobil grease mobilux EP 2 or similar.
Mine just arrived and i was told to lube them but i dont know if i feel comfortable pulling it all apart just to lube it. Is there any reason to do the hard way instead like is it better?
The "hard way" is actually properly way to do it, because bearing has built-in rubber seals on both side. If you apply it on the rod, most of the grease will be stop by the seal. But if you don't feel comfortable to take it apart, do the easy way is better than running it dry.
While I appreciate the in-depth tuturial, to give a fair comparaison, you must measure the sound difference at the exact same distance in the same room otherwise its useless. Sound interact with the room and the dB value will usually drop the further you are from the source unless you are in a very reverberant room. dB use logarithmic scale, a 3 to 6 dB difference can be perceived as much as two time quieter.
You are absolutely right but when I first recorded the video, the amount of lube that I used wasn't shown properly on the video. That's why when I disassembled it, there was already a lot of lube on it.
Additionally over greasing bearings can actually cause early failure. Lubrication shouldn’t really reduce noise unless the bearing is severely under lubricated e.g. rusty bike chain.
@@milesthompson6145 I think it might not be best for this application. You may like to clean the old grease out and use 99% Isopropyl alcohol to give a good wash. Then, make sure you fully dry it and apply some PTFT grease, or superlube as shown on video.
They are shared 90% of the parts. But plus have additional bearing to top of linear rod, there is additional one bearing under build plate. Other than that, they are similar. I won't be identical, but follow the video should give u right steps.
there a lot of competitor at this price range. namely best hardware value Elegoo neptune 3 pro(230) is one of the popular one, Sovol sv06 plus(320) is fresh released and many others. I have just received Neptune 3P, will do a review soon. But at this moment, I can't tell you if sv06 is the best choice or not, it still got some minors issues like any budget 3d printer does. It really depends on what you want.
You can spend a lot more and not have to do this. $239 you get a really good device and right away you do maintenance that you’ll have to do down the road too. Nothing wrong with that.
You don't have to, just spend $1100 on a pre assembled prusa i3 mk3s+. Or you can spend $300 on an sv06 and have basically the same printer after you've fixed all the defects yourself.
You put no effort into removing the x-carriage at all. Just remove the belt tensioner knob and pull the belt out of the housing the knob is on then just wiggle that side off, comes off with just a little effort. then take the belt off the stepper motor gear. Slide the carriage off the rods, open it up, remove the belt from the grips and put it away from you and any grease. Pull the bearings out of the housing (you can use a rod to kind of pry them out). Repack them with grease, clean them up, mark the side of the bearing with a dot with a sharpie noting it will be the side and aligns the two rows of inner bearings so the rod seats on both rows. Pop them back into place and reverse disassembly. You do not need to the do the Z axis it does not move fast enough to matter.
paper towel leaves traces, PTFE additive can lock the bearing and make it slide instead of roll, damaging it. this is a terrible maintenance procedure.
This was rough! Dude just not have a tongue? The most important parts I just couldn’t understand and got frustrated. Thanks for trying tho bro. Some of it helped
Extremely helpful, loved how you showed each individual step without cuts in between taking out screws and stuff
So I followed this guide this evening with my SV 06 Plus. Touch wood all is working again and I think it's definitely quieter. The fan is now by far the loudest thing. Thanks for putting this together! Overall it took me about 2h 30 mins, as I did it carefully, although I put the Z axis bars in upside down so the extruder would have been facing backwards, doh, I unscrewed and was able to put it the right way around, all good. So yeah, thanks again! Without this guide I would never have been able to do it.
glad it helps!
I just got an SV06 over the holidays. I appreciate the support you've given it over the past year.
Your video helped me to decide that the SV 06 will be my first 3D Printer.
For me, it is essential to have a silent printer, and it looks like I can achieve that with only a bit of grease on the SV 06.
Glad you like it, I have second unit of sv06. Going to do a full assembly, bed level, calibration guide, and some other common found issues. It is really great machine in the end of day, but it needs a lot patience to play around, same for any budget 3d printers. Happy printing.
Wish the SV's were out, or I knew about them, when I bought my Artillery Genius. It's a good printer, don't get me wrong, but I'm not a fan of skateboard wheels being responsible for holding my hotend in. Or keeping linear torsion on the z.
For me, to remove the X axis carriage to get at the bearings, the easiest and least potentially harmful way, was once the z-axis rods and the tensioner have been removed, grab a rod in each hand and use your thumbs and forefingers to EVENLY apply force to the end block. Initially, there was a moderate amount of resistance, but once it started to slide, it came off readily. Obviously, it would be a good idea to remove any grease on the rods before using this method to get at the bearings. Great video overall.
Thanks for the video! I was able to easily get the X axis gantry apart by GENTLY tapping the right side injection molding component off with a small hammer. After that I was able to take the extruder mount apart and get the bearings out and pack them with grease.
This^^^I used a gunsmith rubber hammer because its small and soft
@8:45 The rods will come out fairly easily if you twist each side of the gantry a little in opposite directions... just a few slight twists while pulling outward and one side will pop out easily. We really need to get the grease packed inside the bearing for it to be effective. The rest of the video helped me get my SV06 plus setup - I disassembled the printer enough to do this job right out the box from new.
I just ordered this printer and wanted to do this re-lube as soon as I get it. Thanks for the great video guide.
Glad that help, happy printing
Thank you for the video SavageLau! New owner of the same model and the stock bearings were noisy from the beginning. I tried to just do the easy way and wipe some grease onto the bars but it wasn't enough. Followed your steps and the stock bearings had no lube to begin with! I'm surprised they ship out like that. Instead of buying a new set of Mitsumi bearings which would've been around $100 with shipping, this helps keep the budget down and only requires a bit of work. At the same time I installed the printed heat bed cable support to prevent issues in the future. I'm hoping someone will do a filament sensor install video. Keep the SV06 videos coming!
Glad that help, I will do one general upgrade video later, filament snesor will be part of it.
Nice video ! Your channel could become a reference for SV06 owners. One nice future video could be about how to make the sv06 super quiet with new fans.
Thanks! More sv06 videos on the way.
Followed it step by step and huge improvement.
glad that help!
Thank-you for the great vids! I just got my SV 06 yesterday i am going to print a lifesize R2 D2
Thanks m8, your video helped me grease the SV06 very nicely. I had some problem with the Auto Z-Align, it went up two third, the right motor didnt spin witht the same speed as the left one, and started to give out the sound, as it would've when reaching the top. I had to reset it twice, and pull out/ insert the motor cables again, by the third time everything went well.
Wow, fantastic video. This was the how too video I was looking for. You made it look easy. I was able to repack the Y-Axis bearings but the balls fell out of one of the bearings. I replaced the Y-axis with Igus Drylin temporarily until a higher quality bearing can be sourced that isn't astronomically expensive. Thank you for a great video
Thanks! I totally agree with that, a lot people on FB group were mentioned go for Misumi LMU8, but it cost $13 each. A total of $130 before tax, which is a lot of money. It make this budget printer no longer "budget". How the IGUS bearing goes?( Noise, vibration, printer quality)
@@SvgLau The print quality is very good. The bearing noise is nonexistent. Vibration really hasn't been as issue that has affected my print quality. At $13 for 12 bearings I felt like it was a risk worth taking and I am pleasantly pleased with them. My main and only concern is the slight tolerance issue. When the hotbed hits the y-stop the bed will cant slightly. However this only occurs during some calibration operations. During print operations this has not been as issue. Linear movements are smooth. I did print three PLA+ linear bearings that seems to have a slightly tighter tolerance. I may try those. I too didn't want to spend the cash for the Misumi bearings. So, I also picked up 12 metal CNC lm8uu bearings on ebay. I tried a few of them and found their tolerances to be extremely loose fitting. I think for the moment the Igus bearings will stay and are the best bank for the buck. I want to replace the x-axis bearings as mine are quite crunchy sounding. I'll try your lubrication approach on the x-axis. Hopefully I can get enough grease in there to resolve the issue. I would really like to either pack them thoroughly or replace them with the Igus bearings. My next project will be the 608zz bearing for the z-axis screw to reduce that wobble. This is great printer and I feel that most of the issues I've had are the bearings.
@@benjaminhobbs3964 I think igus bearing will come losses after center among of printing assignments, but we are talking about hundreds of hours. I have tested the blue injection modeling part, it is very brittle. I think it may need a slide hammer to pull from back, the linear rod housing on x axis are really tight fit, any force apply it in a angle may cause damage. I am also planning to put a bearing on top, instead of print those blue block parts I would more prefer cnc one.
@@benjaminhobbs3964 I will keep you update with the blue top block, either way I will do a model base on sovol open-source cad files 😀
@@SvgLau The "normal" Igus bearings are intended to be placed in a holder applying pre-tension to them. For the Prusa mk3s and Prusa Mini are special holders to use them on the bed and properly tension them on printables. Maybe they can be adapted to the SV06, as this printer has some simularitys to the prusas...
I do not have the SV06, but if the housing for x is stiff, acually a direct change might work (if you can do the change without breaking the injection molded part).
Actually, as injection molding is more precise than 3d-printed parts, self-lubricating brass bushings might work also. Practicly no wear, not as quite as Igus but much less noisy than bearings. No pretension needed.
Exacly what i was looking for, thanks
Glad that could help you!
Thank you for this excellent demonstration.
okay to compare, I don't have nearly the same amount of noise on my machine, I suspect that they've oiled them a bit. I'll try the easy way for a while and will do a full teardown and maitenance cycle next year
my second unit is a lot less noise too.
I just bought one of these printers to try making things myself and wondered what the grease tube was for. Of course I happened to wait until after I assembled it to look it up, but looks easy enough to take care of. First test print without greasing anything seemed fine, I'm not too worried about having a perfect print, just want to try and make it work as long as possible.
Love the lethal company music in the back ground 😂
😄
X axis can be taken apart just by pulling the sides and gently wiggling them. It took 10 seconds to me to remove the right side. if you still have loosened belt, you will notice it tightening - that means sides are moving.
Great job. Love your videos
Thanks!
Actually the reason ballbearings are used at all mainly is about toleraces. Brass bushings (with graphite embedded) and Polymer bushings (Igus) are self lubricating and much quiter. But they are also much more precise and have lower tolerances than ball bearings. For a long time I had problems swaping to theese type of bushings, bed or x-cariage having layer skips.
The problem is a staticly over constrained system.
For example the x-axis. The upper rod already restrict movement between the printhead and the rod in y and z-direction, also rotation around z and y. still it can move in x (which we want of course) but also tilt around the x-rod. To avoid tilting around the x-rod, the second x-rod is needed. But the bearing on the second rod has the same restrictions as on the first rod. Actually, the second rod need only restrict movement between the rod and printhead in y-direction, as restricting on two positions in y avoid the printhead rotating around the x-axis. All the other restrictions are over constrainment.
Overconstraining means every slight disalignment, be it because of manufactoring tolerances or different thermal expansion or contraction on temperature changes, have to be compensated by tolerances of the bearings or by elasticity of parts. So simply change to more precise, silent and less service-intensitive bushings often fail.
Personally I found my solution for this problem last week: I simply designed an Igus-style bushing with a modified inside hole. The hole is now two half-cylinders with a diameter of 8mm and a cube 8*1mm² between. so in one direction this design has a (very big) tolerance of 1mm. With this direction orientet verticaly, now missalinment in z do not matter anymore - only the upper rod hold the printhead in z (we are talking about micrometers the rods might be off). I tried it on my prusa mini. I replaced the upper bearing by a very precise self lubricating brass bushing and the lower bearing by my self designed bushing. While while restriction against rotaiting around y still is over constrained, this does not seem to be an issue. Just taking off the overcoonstrain against z-movement and y-tilting did the trick.
The other point is the y-axis. On the Prusas (mini and mk3s) on the left are two bearins in line, on the right is only one bearing. On my mini I had problems with brass bushings, as I did not get alligned pefectly, so I got to much friction. But two Igus bushings (with a mount allowing pretesinon them adjustable) worked. Still, for the other y rod an Igus bushing leads to a blocking bed. I have not tried my modified bushing jet (with horizontal oriented longer inner hole), as using a Ruthex bushing (practicly an Igus bushing with elastic o-rings) worked fine.
So if you realy want the printer to be much quiter and low mainanance, you should try bushings instead of bearings. But you might think a bit how to do the statics more constrained and less overconstrained.
By the way - I think the reason most entry level printers use v-wheels is their elastisity, as this helps in case of overconstrained systems with not-perfect allignment. You can get away with a lot of wrong doings using some rubber...
While my comment is about the test I did on prusas, it might be usefull for the SV06 too, as it is heavaly "mk3s-inspired"
Great info! I work on Mk3s a lot back in the day. I have encounter few time bearing related issue, like noise, dirt, and other. It is not much quieter than sv06 in my opinion. Due to the bearing that they use and the nature of ball bearing. But I actually have more problem with mk3s then sv06 from my user experiences. I am going to try some different grease on the bearing later on and see if they make any differences.
Has anyone figured out if the Z axis bearings can actually be removed? Also you can use two rods, one from each end to pack the bearings, this helps a tons with the Z bearings as there are two and it helps to lesson the amount of lube that gets in between.
Some people remove it by use a sidely bigger size socket then the rod. The rod od is 8mm, so it should be easy to find a right size socket. but i dont think it is necessary to remove the bearings to pack lube on it, as you mentioned it could done without remove it.
@@SvgLau ya it was mostly for doing a full igus drylin bearing swap. When I first packed my bearings I did apply some pressure on the z bearings to see if they came out for cleaning, but didn’t want to break anything.
Most useful! You have a new subscriber.
I get my sv06 plus tomorrow from amazon. I will be performing this lubrication procedure as soon as I open printer box. Should I get Klipper for my sv06 plus? Is it a recommended upgrade? Thank You for sharing your time!
I've got two grindy x axis bearings to replace, shame that you couldn't figure out how to slide them off. Still a helpful video for checking the z bearings
lol, I don't want to break it, don't have the proper tool on hand. If I can figure out later, I will let you know.
@@SvgLau No worries, I'll be figuring it out myself in a few days
@@1fareast14 just twist it back and forth carefully. It will loosen up.
hello, thanks for all your awesome videos about the sv06. I have one question, do you maybe know the stepper motor specifications since I cant find a data sheet on the internet for them. I need the resistance and inductance, because I want to tune the stepper motor drivers.
Sorry, I don't have any information regarding that. I think there are some people who post about this on github. Or, directly contact cs from fb group would be an easy way to figure it out.
ok, thanks for your reaction!@@SvgLau
Great video. Thank you!
Thanks😁
You should check out the official sovol plus video for lubing the bearings. It looks easier just popping the top portion and not touching the lead screws. I just received my plus and the bearings are dry. So I need to do mine. It wouldn't allow me to post a link.
What a difference that made and super simple machine to work on. I thought it would be annoying to lube all of the bearings, but it was quick and simple. Definitely just screw them off the top and don't even mess with the lead screws. Thanks for the video it has made such a difference in the way the machine sounds.
sounding off again to say that the x-axis can be taken apart, I just twisted the right rod/belt piece back and forth while pulling
Nice!
How can I get or grow that extra hand to hold my bed too? Did you 3d print that too? Can you share the stl files :))
I got mine from Google, search ex-wife stl, you will find a bunch. :)
@@SvgLau Unfathomably based
I will be using Molybdenum axle grease on mine...it basically stops wear. Well, that and it's the only grease I have....sure does stink though.
As long it works, I was going to lube it with super sticky red grease that I use to grease my garage door wheel track...lol, good thing I didn't do it. Bit super lube works grease so far, currently just put sv06 printing with abs 24hours per day for the past week. Linear rod still looks free of scratch.
@@SvgLau That's awesome man, that is a ton of printing. I mostly print ABS so it's good to hear that it's doing well.
Yup this was a strange one. I don't think I've ever bought a machine that didn't come lubricated from factory before I got my SV06. I lubed up everything before I even turned it on. It was very dry to touch and I know that you should never run any machine like that.
That is same condition with mine when it first arrived.
@@SvgLau with inexperienced people this could be a huge problem in a very short time.
The least they could do is include a little tube of grease with the packaging and add a lubrication step in their setup guide.
@@TechnologistAtWork true, that would be something necessary for this printer.
Purusa printers even the assembled ones don’t come lubed either.
@@brianhilligoss that's not how my Anycubic i3 Mega came.
Is the Super Lube compatible with the grease that is (poorly) applied to the stock SV06? I would much rather continue to maintain lubrication the easy way, rather than complete disassembly. Well done and informative video!
Yes, You can apply super lube over the stock one, it won't hurt. The only thing is that the lube will not do much within the bearing, since there are rubber covers block dust and lube from getting inside.
@@SvgLau I do have a mini-ultrasonic jewelry cleaner, should I go the distance and repack all of the bearings while I am at it?
@@wesleykelly4127 I don't think it is necessary to use that. But since you have the tool, you can try it, make sure you don't use water. The bearing will be rust, also becareful with the balls inside the bearing, I have seen people mentioned the balls fall out from bearing.
This is an excellent Video, Thanks very much.
I'll probably stick with easy way at least for several first days with my SV06. I'm just not mentally ready for the hard way xD
Yes, better do it that way. Just get more familiar with the machine, do the complex way if necessary later on.
@@SvgLau That's the plan, I need to know this device way better if I want to take most of it apart, put it back together and not screw something up on the way. But you made a really nice guide for it. But you made a really nice guide for this entire process.
@@SvgLau well, some of my bearing just couldn't be saved, no matter how much lube I'd pump into them some still sound like someone put sand there instead. I replaced all of them with some polymer bearings. Night nad day difference.
Great and very useful video! Apart from the noise, do you think print quality has improved noticeably after this? (maybe with a calibration cube). I haven't received my printer yet but I'll save your video for the future.
I have not print anything big yet after lube. The test cubic come out with a sighly better layer(not big improvement, since printer quality before is good. I will let you know after I run some test today.
I have been run prototyping on this printer since it's lube. Now I can tell you there are some print quality improve after lube. But I really appreciate how quiet it is now, I stay same room with printer while it's printing.
I have a quick question. I recently got my sv06 and I am new to 3D printing. When my gantry is moving up and down there some creaking noises, I think its more noticeable when going down. I feel like the noises also there when its moving in x and y directions as well. Did you have that as well? Do you think the lube will fix it?
The creaking noises is from the motion of bearing. Lube should be able to help, in my case it reduce a lot after lube. I could barely hear it in a low speed printing, but still could hear a bit during high speed print. If the sound is not sounds like scratching mental sounds it should be fine.
@@SvgLau Do you know if all the printers are manufactured like this or do you think it was a minor defect?
@@raghavpottabathini9099 I think it is some early production QC problem. They all like this among 3d printer manufactuers. But, from my experience with sovol in the past, they are doing some continue improvments. (I have two sv01 bought at different time). But my question is, how much they(production engineers/QC team) consider this problem. In other word, if they think it big enough that would be a deal break for most people, they will adress this quickly. However, if it is cost lot to change bearing supplyer or they don't think it is big a deal, then, that's another story.
THANK YOU!!! Are there any other grease brands or types you can recommend?
I think TPFE grease should work the same, or if you would like to use TPFE oil that would do too.
If you can put it back together with less parts than you started and it still works, it means that it was over engineered and now you are saving weight. right?
From engineer perspective all the parts should have it's purpose. Over engineering or deisgn mean create unnecessary cost for production. But , whatEVER I have disassemblyed and reassemblyed all left spared bolts at the end. (cars, electronics, etc..)😂
You don’t need to lube the z lead screw because the nut used is made out of POM which is self lubricating.
You are absolutely right. I put a note on description to correct that mistake.
at this point why not change the beariong for dry one like the DryLin Igus? i head they do a way betert job than base one. and is nbot specialy more expensive taht buy oil and suply.
Buena impresora linda saludos desde Colombia
Great tutorial! Got a sub!
Just to be sure you are using the stock bearings right? Dope vid! My SV06 is loud. Gonna try this soon
Yes, I don't see any reason to replace bearing after lube at this moment.
Thanks, Lau!
isnt superlube bad since its ptfe
PTFE grease is totally fine for this application.
YES, it can just wreck your bearings and rails over time, every youtuber recommends it to get a percentage from referral links, in specialized forums and discord servers recommends Lithium soap based grease, no particulates (so no PTFE, no molly etc), NLGI grade 0 to 2, optimally with EP additives,
It cost way less than superlube.
If you are undecided, buy mobil grease mobilux EP 2 or similar.
Which bearings and how many of them should I buy for my Sovol SV06? LMU8 or LM8UU? Thanks!
I believe it is LM8UU
Mine just arrived and i was told to lube them but i dont know if i feel comfortable pulling it all apart just to lube it. Is there any reason to do the hard way instead like is it better?
The "hard way" is actually properly way to do it, because bearing has built-in rubber seals on both side. If you apply it on the rod, most of the grease will be stop by the seal. But if you don't feel comfortable to take it apart, do the easy way is better than running it dry.
@@SvgLau ok thankyou i guess ill make the decision when the lube gets here
@@eaglee247 How did it go? I'm thinking about ordering some but I'm a bit scared to take things apart
@@whowantsmypants8888 still watiing on lube took me forever to decide
@@whowantsmypants8888 but i probably need to as its kinda required as the bearings need to lubed
While I appreciate the in-depth tuturial, to give a fair comparaison, you must measure the sound difference at the exact same distance in the same room otherwise its useless. Sound interact with the room and the dB value will usually drop the further you are from the source unless you are in a very reverberant room. dB use logarithmic scale, a 3 to 6 dB difference can be perceived as much as two time quieter.
Helpful video but it feels like you use way too much lube for the bearings and rods.
You are absolutely right but when I first recorded the video, the amount of lube that I used wasn't shown properly on the video. That's why when I disassembled it, there was already a lot of lube on it.
Additionally over greasing bearings can actually cause early failure. Lubrication shouldn’t really reduce noise unless the bearing is severely under lubricated e.g. rusty bike chain.
Where did you get the model of the printer? I've been trying to find one online to make mods for it
github.com/Sovol3d/SV06-Fully-Open-Source?fbclid=IwAR1m_GsBFlq8hMyWcmprhn51EEyapEHiU1abGk-hNOH10AIx3jIm9q1bYtI
I did this with white lithium grease and it made the bearing substantially worse, any reason for that?
Is it PTFE grease?
@@SvgLau Not as far as I can tell. It's just called White Lithium grease.
@@milesthompson6145 I think it might not be best for this application. You may like to clean the old grease out and use 99% Isopropyl alcohol to give a good wash. Then, make sure you fully dry it and apply some PTFT grease, or superlube as shown on video.
@@SvgLauthank you!
Is it good for me to do it before the first assembly?
Yes, make sure u don't put grease on thread rod.
@@SvgLau thread rod?
@@zwelly9872 lead screws on both side
So I did this. Balls fell out of the bearings. Scraped like half the bearings. Any idea what I could of done wrong?
Did you try put the ball back in? I think it might be a faulty bearing. Ball should not easly fall out. .
@@SvgLau can’t they are part of a ball chain. I’m guessing the bearings are bad. Ordered new higher quality and all is good.
@@brianhilligoss did you try to contact the customer support?
@@SvgLau yes but they are on Chinese new year. So I just ordered the pets from Amazon. I probably put to much pressure lubing then.
hello do you know if I can buy equivalent fat in french because in Amazon fr I have 15€ of post tax!
you could search "ptfe grease" there should be cheaper one.
Can anyone confirm or deny if this video directly corresponds to lubing the sv06 Plus as well?
They are shared 90% of the parts. But plus have additional bearing to top of linear rod, there is additional one bearing under build plate. Other than that, they are similar. I won't be identical, but follow the video should give u right steps.
Wo hast du denn das CAD model vom Drucker her, bräuchte das :)
github.com/Sovol3d/SV06-Fully-Open-Source?fbclid=IwAR1m_GsBFlq8hMyWcmprhn51EEyapEHiU1abGk-hNOH10AIx3jIm9q1bYtI
Is this upgrade necessary
Yes, it is more like a maintenance.
Should i buy it? Or can i find something better at 300$?
there a lot of competitor at this price range. namely best hardware value Elegoo neptune 3 pro(230) is one of the popular one, Sovol sv06 plus(320) is fresh released and many others. I have just received Neptune 3P, will do a review soon. But at this moment, I can't tell you if sv06 is the best choice or not, it still got some minors issues like any budget 3d printer does. It really depends on what you want.
doraemon theme song at the end! 🤣
Ah yes because what I want to do when I get a new toy is to disassemble it to do what should have been done in factory.
oh yeah, it is a lots fun to open it and see what's inside.
That is the maker lifestyle ;-)
You can spend a lot more and not have to do this. $239 you get a really good device and right away you do maintenance that you’ll have to do down the road too. Nothing wrong with that.
You don't have to, just spend $1100 on a pre assembled prusa i3 mk3s+. Or you can spend $300 on an sv06 and have basically the same printer after you've fixed all the defects yourself.
Tool
!=Toy
+100% cost delivery to Europe? Nice.
Try other type of PTFE grease, should works the same.
@@SvgLau my ptfe lube is too much dry. I have from USA 🫣
@@rzboril how much you pay forthe shipping
@@SvgLau no 11,56 cost and 10,44 cost is import. I have maximum 4$
@@rzboril expensive.. But that grease should last very long time. You can use it to lube gears too, car door hinge.
You put no effort into removing the x-carriage at all. Just remove the belt tensioner knob and pull the belt out of the housing the knob is on then just wiggle that side off, comes off with just a little effort. then take the belt off the stepper motor gear. Slide the carriage off the rods, open it up, remove the belt from the grips and put it away from you and any grease. Pull the bearings out of the housing (you can use a rod to kind of pry them out). Repack them with grease, clean them up, mark the side of the bearing with a dot with a sharpie noting it will be the side and aligns the two rows of inner bearings so the rod seats on both rows. Pop them back into place and reverse disassembly. You do not need to the do the Z axis it does not move fast enough to matter.
Gibt es keine Kugellager mit Schmiernippel, so wie bei Industriemaschinen? Das ist ja ein Gefriemel. Dann lieber Linearführungen.
Deshalb ist es ein Budgetdrucker.
@@SvgLau
Stimmt. Gibt es aber nicht Kugellager mit Dichtung, sodas das Fett im Kugellager verbleibt. Wäre ja dann das Mittelding.
paper towel leaves traces, PTFE additive can lock the bearing and make it slide instead of roll, damaging it.
this is a terrible maintenance procedure.
This was rough! Dude just not have a tongue? The most important parts I just couldn’t understand and got frustrated. Thanks for trying tho bro. Some of it helped