Well, Chris, my name is Chris and I’m brand new to 3-D printing. In fact, my printer has not even arrived yet, but I’ve been watching many TH-cam videos to try to help me be prepared for my first run. I wanted to tell you that of all the videos that I have watched and I have watched quite a few that your videos are very informative Very well laid out and I think I have learned the most from your videos than any others so I wanted to say thank you very much for the job that you do and the information you provide. I look forward to seeing many of your newer videos, and hopefully one day we can actually correspondand I can show you the things that I have learned through your teachings. Thank you again and may God bless you every day.
I don't understand how you only have 25k subs! Your videos are SO easy to understand, I'm a total newbie and the way you explain everything so clearly is just amazing. I've learned so much!
Totally agree. This should be everyone's go to for Cura 3d printing and 3d printing in general. Solid advice, well edited videos, I'll be sharing his TH-cam info!
Great videos Chris. Much needed learning indeed for beginners and those that have been printing for a while. Getting to my age you tend to forget things over time, so these are great to re-watch as well.
One of the big mysteries for me has been going from 0.4mm nozzles to 0.8mm and 1.0mm. It's a lot different with temperatures, flow and in my case, finding out what gives me a nice layer resolution to reduce post processing. Almost all the calibration guides I have seen are for the basic, 0.4mm nozzles. Jumping to 0.8mm allows me to print some beautiful 0.25 layers and that 0.8mm bead means less time for perimeters. However, doing a temp tower with a 0.8mm can be a little exhausting and you'd be surprise how hot you have to go to eliminate stringing! I look forward to your thoughts
Once again, another clear and above all, demonstrable tutorial that takes so much pain out of approaching Cura. I have seen a few excellent educators of 3D printing here on TH-cam. But yours are the best. You take the time to print the objects to demonstrate the settings, and that is a huge help. Thanks for increasing my knowledge in the best way possible. As soon as I can, I'm joining your top-level Patreon. I am currently printing to the very limit of FDM and still need to squeeze out a bit mote detail on some of my designs. In fact, I sometimes hsve to fisl back the designs for my FDM printer...even with a Mosquito hotend, Bondtech Direct Drive Extruder and a belt driven z axis on my Ender 3 v2. Looks like some advanced knowledge of Cura might be enough to get me over the line. Also, and I'm amazed at my own ignorance here, I had no idea nozzles came in sizes less than 0.4 mm. Like, big duh! Anyways, thanks again. Hugely appreciated.
I’m new with 3D printing in the beginning I struggled with getting successful prints, found a video for “perfect print” settings which was a .2mm layer height setting lmfao so I am that person who managed to get settings that’s worked and 1 year later I am now diving deeper to learn more about the settings for better prints
HI, my answer to your question ....I don't often look to the settings off my 3D printer . Thank you for your understandable video Greatings from Belgium
Chris I'm very new to 3d printing, and you do an amazing job on your videos/info. Thank you for your Dedication and willingness to share. New sub. Than you.
I am gonna go out on a limb here and assume the paint holders on your pegboard in the background are 3d printed. I love them and am hoping you can tell me where to get the file?
I subscribed to your page from your first tutorial I watched. Thank you for Indepth details. I may have missed it at some point, but I watch you zoom in wherever you like. I am locked into one point of zoom. Have I missed something in basics?
Hi, it is possible to program a variable layer height for to have the best definition on top of the models. For example starting with 0.2 and ending with 0.02 ?
When the layer is changed do you have to be careful not to have the temperature to hot as the layers are thinner? Also do you have an up to date video on cura adaptive layer settings
What I got: ABS doesn't do good at lower layer height Lower layer height is prone to clogs High layer height has less clogs, more durability as it draws more extruding. Outer wall line width, if decreased it could show more details, but the print might suffer under extrusion in some parts
I have question. On prints that I have 90 degree walls. How do I print it so it is not weak at the point where the part goes 90 degrees . My parts keep braking
Would love to see a video with presets for easy, intermediate and advanced prints in CURA 5. It may vary some based on the printer but it would be a very nice referrence source. I mean obviously your channel is library of information with great break down. Just having a simple video with a ton of links to your other videos after breaking each section presets down briefly would be killer. Like touch on 3 recommended setting based on how complex the print per section then a link to your full breakdown video. Maybe an end of the year project?
Hey! I’ve actually already done a video like that at the beginning of the series you can see it here. 3D Printing Perfection: Things You Must Check Before Every Cura 5 Print th-cam.com/video/HV5XA0oR9c4/w-d-xo.html
my flsun v400 is not doing what i want. i hit home, then temp, than when that is right i set the project i want and hit print, and instead of going to the left and leaving a bead of filament it drops down and starts to print, help please
Great detailed video! I was actually trying to figure out how to tune my printer for each quality setting. Do I need to drastically reduce flow if I reduce my layer height, or does Cura figure that out for me? My only gripe is that I'm trying to learn about 3D printing, but your 'stache is a bit distracting! 😆 Ladies with dangly earrings have the same problem in video format. I'll probably get used to it, but just sayin'.
hello Chris, love your vids. I wonder if you can help me. I am using Cura 5.6.0. Trying to upsize bed to 400x400mm, the settings only have a rectangular or oval option narrowing bed to rectangular shape. please can you help me reach the full potential of 400x400 square build plane. Thankyou Curtis
Hey Chris, Loved your cura series. I learned alot. God bless you for the lessons. I am having 1 major issue and it's driving me crazy. The hotend keeps getting clogged after a print job. I would do the temp tower to get my setting just right and then reprint. It would start off ok till after the skirt is done and then would clog up... cancel job, cool off, unclog, cut filament, reload and then reprint. Again would do the job, great and start printing string test but clog - it's like a never ending story no matter what i print. Can I use a g-code to retract the filament at end of each & every job? if so, what should I use?
I’m sorry your having issues. Do you have the same issue with a different spool? From what your saying it sounds like a filament issue. I’d be curious if it keeps happening with a different spool. Potentially different brand I’ve seen this happen with the super cheap filaments that are the $8-$12 spools. They have a lot of impurities and fillers in them that cause the filaments to clog easy. Second idea it could be a bad nozzle you may want to replace it. You can get packs on Amazon that are affordable. No matter the issue your explaining doesn’t sound like a software issue. Hope that helps.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I totally replace the hotend, nozzles and the 2 extruders along with the magnetic sheet and now use the metal pei plate (wow what a difference) It's a Geeetech A20M. I also put the auto touch level on it. The plate is now really flat. This was my son's printer which I borrowed to play with. I started with what he gave me - lots of Overture rolls of PETG. I though it was the filament as well. I just bought the SunLu PLA and still gives same problem. The PLA really flows nice. Still working on the stringing. It also printed the temp towers all the way up with no problem (yes stringing there, but less with cooler temp). I also loved your lesson on how to adjust the steppers since i did change the extruder parts to the Creality all metal.
@@stephenf98 that’s awesome pla is definitely easier to print. I prefer it especially for I use it for. The best thing is to do a temp tower first then stringing cause temp does effect stringing as you saw. Then it’s a good idea to work on a flow test to really get dialed in.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I agree whole heartedly as you have stated in your vids... But what can I do with the clogging??? What I would like to try in this case is to retract the filament at the end of print about 20mm. This should keep the it cleared out. How do I write in the g-code for this? OR, Maybe try another hotend instead of the OEM. The nozzles are hardened since they all said they are great.
hi can anyone help me when i draw a box in freecad then export it to cura its the right size but if i draw a circle it is 50% bigger any ideas . if i draw a box with a circle inside its comes out the right size , what am i doing wrong ?
It’s a tricky thing. Because sometimes when you pause your printer and then change out the filament, it won’t return to the exact same spot and you’ll have layer shifting on your print. What I typically do if I see it about to run out I snip off the filament change out the spool while it’s running. Then start pushing the new filament right up against the filament that was running out until the extruder motor has grabbed it fully and it’s in the Bowden tube just a bit.
@@emertonfrost3292 I use Cura cause I’ve used it a long time and I’m use to it. I just recently started use prusa slicer more since their latest update it’s gotten a lot better. Simplified 3D is a bit cumbersome and not a lot of people use it so I don’t.
I have a unique problem, my print only does 4-6 layers and thinks it’s finished, missing 99% of the model. Same result on multiple printers and SD cards. Please help
he, had a similar problem today, printed 4 benchys in petg, changed petg from gray to a black one, and printed 2 benchys, both stopped at the same layer (mid print) but the printer said it was finished. Both bed and nozzle temp were kept high. And the head didnt home itself...
Its so much more. Then a few settings. Before i used a lot of Support. And thanks to Chris a almost use only a skirt ore a brim.y always look at the model how to place it infill setting printing speed fan speed flow of the nozzle. before you can print the ijfeltower you are one year feather mine is super.whitout support 🎉thanks for your tips cris. At my ender 3 se
is there any way if i become a patron or pay u a fee help me tune my Neptune 3 plus with cura not having a good time at it me and my son are going nuts ,thank you love your videos new to 3d printing hans thanks again
You can join my free patreon and chat with me there the link in the description You can also contact me with your issues through my website and we can email that way. Itsmeadmade.com
IS THERE A WAY: I use an Ultra Fast "CHEP" profile, but I would like to change my profile to a detailed profile for the last say 10 layers where I have extruded text. Is there a way to change the profile at layer? I know there are at layer plugins but they do not address all settings. Thanks.
I set my initial layer height at 0.2 always, found the perfect settings from lower flow rate lower z height and squish. From there I prototype in 0.6mm, most finished models in 0.4mm Fine detail in 0.2mm (0.6mm nozzle)
well that's why I'm watching this to figure out if there is a one size fits all setting or if different items require different settings to include separate build files
Really strange Have entered Chris's setting so far from last 3 videos tried to slice the 4 part Eiffel tower from Thingverse would only do about 80% So tried the bottom one gain same result Middle Top and Other seem OK So something is stopping it - will report back Normalslicing works ok
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I usually like a good balance. I print pencil holders and smaller things like sunflower keychains. Many times I print 2 colors so I have to time the print so I can be there to affect the color change.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe OOPS! I goofed. not 1.5 eeks! I meant 0.15 - 0.3 (fastest print) Also extrusion width normally .48 but I have tried .65. Glad I found you again. I was getting tired of Cura for a few reasons and went back to S3D. I got to watch all your vids.
Man 0.65 is a huge layer that’s gotta be pushing out a ton of filament. Glad you like the videos. You found me just in time. I just started to release my new Cura 5 tutorial series this one is the first of many that I’ll be putting out over the next few weeks.
Curious what settings your using I don’t give any profiles I teach how to make a profile for your printer. There is no perfect profile that will work for every printer. My website it www.itsmeadmade.com you can submit an email through my contact form.
5.4 does not have the hamburger menu for all settings. SO i can not see any advanced settings at all. Cura 5 has really jacked up the UI from previous versions. I am begining to not really like it.
Well, Chris, my name is Chris and I’m brand new to 3-D printing. In fact, my printer has not even arrived yet, but I’ve been watching many TH-cam videos to try to help me be prepared for my first run. I wanted to tell you that of all the videos that I have watched and I have watched quite a few that your videos are very informative Very well laid out and I think I have learned the most from your videos than any others so I wanted to say thank you very much for the job that you do and the information you provide. I look forward to seeing many of your newer videos, and hopefully one day we can actually correspondand I can show you the things that I have learned through your teachings. Thank you again and may God bless you every day.
your in for a wold of hurt :P
@@ronnyspanneveld8110 why so ???
I don't understand how you only have 25k subs! Your videos are SO easy to understand, I'm a total newbie and the way you explain everything so clearly is just amazing. I've learned so much!
Totally agree. This should be everyone's go to for Cura 3d printing and 3d printing in general. Solid advice, well edited videos, I'll be sharing his TH-cam info!
took a shot every time he said layer height. I'm super hydrated right now
Great videos Chris. Much needed learning indeed for beginners and those that have been printing for a while. Getting to my age you tend to forget things over time, so these are great to re-watch as well.
One of the big mysteries for me has been going from 0.4mm nozzles to 0.8mm and 1.0mm. It's a lot different with temperatures, flow and in my case, finding out what gives me a nice layer resolution to reduce post processing. Almost all the calibration guides I have seen are for the basic, 0.4mm nozzles. Jumping to 0.8mm allows me to print some beautiful 0.25 layers and that 0.8mm bead means less time for perimeters. However, doing a temp tower with a 0.8mm can be a little exhausting and you'd be surprise how hot you have to go to eliminate stringing! I look forward to your thoughts
Once again, another clear and above all, demonstrable tutorial that takes so much pain out of approaching Cura. I have seen a few excellent educators of 3D printing here on TH-cam. But yours are the best. You take the time to print the objects to demonstrate the settings, and that is a huge help. Thanks for increasing my knowledge in the best way possible. As soon as I can, I'm joining your top-level Patreon. I am currently printing to the very limit of FDM and still need to squeeze out a bit mote detail on some of my designs. In fact, I sometimes hsve to fisl back the designs for my FDM printer...even with a Mosquito hotend, Bondtech Direct Drive Extruder and a belt driven z axis on my Ender 3 v2. Looks like some advanced knowledge of Cura might be enough to get me over the line. Also, and I'm amazed at my own ignorance here, I had no idea nozzles came in sizes less than 0.4 mm. Like, big duh!
Anyways, thanks again. Hugely appreciated.
I’m new with 3D printing in the beginning I struggled with getting successful prints, found a video for “perfect print” settings which was a .2mm layer height setting lmfao so I am that person who managed to get settings that’s worked and 1 year later I am now diving deeper to learn more about the settings for better prints
HI, my answer to your question ....I don't often look to the settings off my 3D printer . Thank you for your understandable video Greatings from Belgium
I started printing unknowingly at .08. .12 is like a dream to run
Chris I'm very new to 3d printing, and you do an amazing job on your videos/info. Thank you for your Dedication and willingness to share. New sub. Than you.
This video is very helpful. Just got into 3d printing
Awesome glad I could help you on your new addiction (I mean hobby) 😅
You are very informative. I’m three months into 3-D printing. It’s tough.
I am gonna go out on a limb here and assume the paint holders on your pegboard in the background are 3d printed. I love them and am hoping you can tell me where to get the file?
I subscribed to your page from your first tutorial I watched. Thank you for Indepth details. I may have missed it at some point, but I watch you zoom in wherever you like. I am locked into one point of zoom. Have I missed something in basics?
I run on my e5+, 0.6 nozzle, layer height I've been running is 0.18 to 0.38, depending on what I'm printing.
Great video btw.
I bet that makes some strong prints.
@ItsMeaDMaDe sometimes too good, but I still learn trying to learn cura 5.2, your hulk statue video helped with that too.
That’s great glad I could help you out. I’ll have to start testing with my .6 nozzles I just got.
thanx man best tech ever
Ha ha. Sweet! I need a mug that says that 😂
you are a good teacher
Great content. Thank you so much!! I honestly never realized you can get below .1.
Hi, it is possible to program a variable layer height for to have the best definition on top of the models. For example starting with 0.2 and ending with 0.02 ?
Thanks a lot for this video ❤
When the layer is changed do you have to be careful not to have the temperature to hot as the layers are thinner? Also do you have an up to date video on cura adaptive layer settings
great vid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! all of them!!!!!!!!!!
What I got:
ABS doesn't do good at lower layer height
Lower layer height is prone to clogs
High layer height has less clogs, more durability as it draws more extruding.
Outer wall line width, if decreased it could show more details, but the print might suffer under extrusion in some parts
I have question. On prints that I have 90 degree walls. How do I print it so it is not weak at the point where the part goes 90 degrees . My parts keep braking
Would love to see a video with presets for easy, intermediate and advanced prints in CURA 5. It may vary some based on the printer but it would be a very nice referrence source. I mean obviously your channel is library of information with great break down. Just having a simple video with a ton of links to your other videos after breaking each section presets down briefly would be killer. Like touch on 3 recommended setting based on how complex the print per section then a link to your full breakdown video. Maybe an end of the year project?
Hey! I’ve actually already done a video like that at the beginning of the series you can see it here.
3D Printing Perfection: Things You Must Check Before Every Cura 5 Print
th-cam.com/video/HV5XA0oR9c4/w-d-xo.html
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I did not dive deep enough. You deserve more views. This is amazing! Subbed!
Thanks. Best of luck.
my flsun v400 is not doing what i want. i hit home, then temp, than when that is right i set the project i want and hit print, and instead of going to the left and leaving a bead of filament it drops down and starts to print, help please
Great detailed video! I was actually trying to figure out how to tune my printer for each quality setting. Do I need to drastically reduce flow if I reduce my layer height, or does Cura figure that out for me?
My only gripe is that I'm trying to learn about 3D printing, but your 'stache is a bit distracting! 😆
Ladies with dangly earrings have the same problem in video format. I'll probably get used to it, but just sayin'.
played around the with settings too much I think and screwed up the program. how can I reset cura back to the factory settings?
hello Chris, love your vids. I wonder if you can help me. I am using Cura 5.6.0. Trying to upsize bed to 400x400mm, the settings only have a rectangular or oval option narrowing bed to rectangular shape. please can you help me reach the full potential of 400x400 square build plane. Thankyou Curtis
Hey Chris, Loved your cura series. I learned alot. God bless you for the lessons. I am having 1 major issue and it's driving me crazy. The hotend keeps getting clogged after a print job. I would do the temp tower to get my setting just right and then reprint. It would start off ok till after the skirt is done and then would clog up... cancel job, cool off, unclog, cut filament, reload and then reprint. Again would do the job, great and start printing string test but clog - it's like a never ending story no matter what i print. Can I use a g-code to retract the filament at end of each & every job? if so, what should I use?
I’m sorry your having issues. Do you have the same issue with a different spool? From what your saying it sounds like a filament issue. I’d be curious if it keeps happening with a different spool. Potentially different brand I’ve seen this happen with the super cheap filaments that are the $8-$12 spools. They have a lot of impurities and fillers in them that cause the filaments to clog easy. Second idea it could be a bad nozzle you may want to replace it. You can get packs on Amazon that are affordable. No matter the issue your explaining doesn’t sound like a software issue. Hope that helps.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I totally replace the hotend, nozzles and the 2 extruders along with the magnetic sheet and now use the metal pei plate (wow what a difference) It's a Geeetech A20M. I also put the auto touch level on it. The plate is now really flat. This was my son's printer which I borrowed to play with. I started with what he gave me - lots of Overture rolls of PETG. I though it was the filament as well. I just bought the SunLu PLA and still gives same problem. The PLA really flows nice. Still working on the stringing. It also printed the temp towers all the way up with no problem (yes stringing there, but less with cooler temp). I also loved your lesson on how to adjust the steppers since i did change the extruder parts to the Creality all metal.
@@stephenf98 that’s awesome pla is definitely easier to print. I prefer it especially for I use it for. The best thing is to do a temp tower first then stringing cause temp does effect stringing as you saw. Then it’s a good idea to work on a flow test to really get dialed in.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I agree whole heartedly as you have stated in your vids... But what can I do with the clogging??? What I would like to try in this case is to retract the filament at the end of print about 20mm. This should keep the it cleared out. How do I write in the g-code for this? OR, Maybe try another hotend instead of the OEM. The nozzles are hardened since they all said they are great.
hi can anyone help me when i draw a box in freecad then export it to cura its the right size but if i draw a circle it is 50% bigger any ideas . if i draw a box with a circle inside its comes out the right size , what am i doing wrong ?
0.08 in utucra work for 1.78 filimint?
Thanks Chris!!! Great Info!!!!👍😎
Awesome! Hope it will help you out!!
😂😂😂 love the bloopers!
HA! Thats awesome glad to hear it. I did bloopers on this whole series cause I had quite a few flubs.. 😆
Thank you!!! I plan to order different nozzles.
Glad I could help! Playing with different nozzle sizes are a lot of fun to mess with. Good luck!
I’m a fresh 3D printing noob with a Neptune 3+ that just arrived. Do you have any tips for adding more filament when you run out mid print?
It’s a tricky thing. Because sometimes when you pause your printer and then change out the filament, it won’t return to the exact same spot and you’ll have layer shifting on your print. What I typically do if I see it about to run out I snip off the filament change out the spool while it’s running. Then start pushing the new filament right up against the filament that was running out until the extruder motor has grabbed it fully and it’s in the Bowden tube just a bit.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Thanks. I'll try that out. :) Keep them great videos coming. I'm absorbing all of them haha :)
Great! Another video drops today it’s all about adhesion settings.
Awesome . I cant wait to see this.
Hope you like it!
What resolution settings are you using?
Hey man, awesome vid, do you use any other slicers and willing to do a vid on them? ❤
I use prusa slicer here and there. I’ve considered doing some tutorials on it. Simplified3D is another one I use some time but rarely.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Any reason? Is cura just your preferred choice?
@@emertonfrost3292 I use Cura cause I’ve used it a long time and I’m use to it. I just recently started use prusa slicer more since their latest update it’s gotten a lot better. Simplified 3D is a bit cumbersome and not a lot of people use it so I don’t.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe thanks for the response, btw i like you moustache!
😂 thanks!!
I have a unique problem, my print only does 4-6 layers and thinks it’s finished, missing 99% of the model. Same result on multiple printers and SD cards. Please help
he, had a similar problem today, printed 4 benchys in petg, changed petg from gray to a black one, and printed 2 benchys, both stopped at the same layer (mid print) but the printer said it was finished. Both bed and nozzle temp were kept high. And the head didnt home itself...
Its so much more. Then a few settings. Before i used a lot of Support. And thanks to Chris a almost use only a skirt ore a brim.y always look at the model how to place it infill setting printing speed fan speed flow of the nozzle. before you can print the ijfeltower you are one year feather mine is super.whitout support 🎉thanks for your tips cris. At my ender 3 se
is there any way if i become a patron or pay u a fee help me tune my Neptune 3 plus with cura not having a good time at it me and my son are going nuts ,thank you love your videos new to 3d printing hans thanks again
You can join my free patreon and chat with me there the link in the description
You can also contact me with your issues through my website and we can email that way.
Itsmeadmade.com
that's so cool of you am going to do all the things in ur playlist if i still have problems ill hit u up thanks again @@ItsMeaDMaDe
IS THERE A WAY: I use an Ultra Fast "CHEP" profile, but I would like to change my profile to a detailed profile for the last say 10 layers where I have extruded text. Is there a way to change the profile at layer? I know there are at layer plugins but they do not address all settings. Thanks.
Great video !!! Keep it up
Thanks! Don’t worry I will. This is just the first of a huge series I’m making. It’s definitely gunna be a master class once finished.
Amazon link?
Adaptive layers looks like it would help you solve them stair step layer lines
I set my initial layer height at 0.2 always, found the perfect settings from lower flow rate lower z height and squish.
From there I prototype in 0.6mm, most finished models in 0.4mm
Fine detail in 0.2mm
(0.6mm nozzle)
Nice. Solid settings for a .6mm nozzle
well that's why I'm watching this to figure out if there is a one size fits all setting or if different items require different settings to include separate build files
Can you make a video about your .05 settings?
Really strange Have entered Chris's setting so far from last 3 videos
tried to slice the 4 part Eiffel tower from Thingverse would only do about 80%
So tried the bottom one gain same result
Middle Top and Other seem OK
So something is stopping it - will report back
Normalslicing works ok
I PRINT AT 0.2MM pretty much for all print only time I change it is for parts
I can only print the test print Dog and Cat nothing else works😢
I use .12 at all times on .4 nozzle unless I use my .8 nozzle, then it's .2
Nice. Do you like your .8mm nozzle? I have some just haven’t used them yet.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe yes, I got it with my new hot end about a month ago. I've only used it for wood pla and glow in the dark pla. Oh and once with ABS.
Nice. I’ll have to put one on one of my printers and test it out.
I have learned to never cheat or skip the "preflight"
I use between 1.5 to 0.3 depending on what I'm printing
Have you ever tried to print a smaller layer height? Or is speed more important for your prints?
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I usually like a good balance. I print pencil holders and smaller things like sunflower keychains. Many times I print 2 colors so I have to time the print so I can be there to affect the color change.
Cool. That makes sense.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe OOPS! I goofed. not 1.5 eeks! I meant 0.15 - 0.3 (fastest print) Also extrusion width normally .48 but I have tried .65.
Glad I found you again. I was getting tired of Cura for a few reasons and went back to S3D. I got to watch all your vids.
Man 0.65 is a huge layer that’s gotta be pushing out a ton of filament.
Glad you like the videos. You found me just in time. I just started to release my new Cura 5 tutorial series this one is the first of many that I’ll be putting out over the next few weeks.
Thanks for that clarification my layer height was set at 4 🥵no point in there
I used your settings in cura and they are horrible how can I send you a picture of my print so you can see what is happening
Curious what settings your using I don’t give any profiles I teach how to make a profile for your printer. There is no perfect profile that will work for every printer. My website it www.itsmeadmade.com you can submit an email through my contact form.
I was at 0.2 now 0.1 and printer speed at 20.0 only cause I wanted a specific detail on my Deadpool pistol for the top the rest I just do a bit faster
5.4 does not have the hamburger menu for all settings. SO i can not see any advanced settings at all. Cura 5 has really jacked up the UI from previous versions. I am begining to not really like it.
0.12 a use. Smal prints a use 0.06. normal 0.15. and almost use 35 procent. Whit gyrod . setting so nice
And heatbed at 45 c. They pop of verry nice at my ender 3 se
talk about time. :D from 2 hours to 48 :D
once I find quality settings, I leave it alone. I have 0.4 nozzle, 200C Nozzle, 51C bed, and 0.2 layer height. For Colorfabb PLA.
honestly, I just keep it at .2 and do more postprocessing. I'd rather deal with that vs having to potentially redo everything.
Up until today, I just set it .16 and moved on. Then I watched this video
w00t!
Dude is a professor in yapanomics. Mustache should’ve told me all I needed to know here 🤦🏽♂️
This so called ultimate guide covers 2 settings and takes 24 mins to do so.. 😅
I'm seeing that lol
Well I'm a newbie and I am learning the Lil details which are helping me understand how to make better prints...
Good video but cut the moustache makes me not wanna watch
The best setting in Cura, is the uninstall button. Prusa is so much better.