Note: If you use a newer version of Cura than I use in this video, you don’t have to “Copy Scripts” they are already included when you restart Cura. For more information on settings visit this: github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes/wiki
Let's not talk about how much time I wasted before reading this... :-) Get your tower, reboot, Extensions>Post Processing>Modify G-Code THEN add the script you want, Like RetractTower close, then a little red dot on the lower right part of your screen shows it's active, SLICE it and go print... Also, remember to remove the script when no longer needed in Cura.
Oscar, in your experience what do you think works best: to print as cold as possible (190) or to go as hot as possible (220)? I've been doing these tests and with the correct settings, printed parts look the same.
@@MeGrimlock511 if the result is same, I would print low temp .... energy saving, but the question is, how the layers will stick together in low temp and how strong the print is ? If the layers are disconnecting, it's not good
I sure there are other videos the cover this same content, but you explain and show the process in a way I can understand. I think I can afford to cover your coffee. Thanks so much for these instructional videos.
4 weeks into a new printer and having watched lots of videos I got more helpful information from this video than any other video. It will help me fix stringing and temperature issues I've been fighting with. Thank you for this video!
Out of all the 3d Primting U Tubers out there, I have learned the most from Chep. Extremely helpful in getting this old dog to learn new tricks. These temp towers and retraction tests are exactly what I needed. Thank you so much CHEP.
Thanks for this. Got a new filament and decided it would be a good idea to go ahead with a big print before testing the retraction settings Not my smartest move
Hi Chep - not been happy with a recently acquired roll of Carbon Fibre PLA, so I decided to try re-calibrating using this process. I was rather surprised to discover that the Temp Tower implied that I should be printing at 35C BELOW minimum manufacturers recommended temperature of 220C, using twice the retraction I had previously (3mm) - Absolutely outstanding print results. Thank you SO much
Running Cura 4.11 and the scripts copy button no longer exists, but they can be copied to the post processing folder manually from the GITHUB repo. This is so awesome. I'm finally going to be able to get all of my filaments dialed in to perfection... and then use them together under the best conditions for each.
In Cura 4.11, it doesn't seem like you need to do the "scripts copy" step. You can go straight to "extensions > post-processing > g-code" and continue with the video's instructions from there.
Thanks for that CHEP. I noticed that in Cura 4.11 that the script for the Temp Tower needs to be changed to: Starting 220 Temp Increment: -5 Change Layer: 41 Change Layer Offset: 4.0
Here's a fix with explanation for those that can't figure it out: For some reason they've changed the dimensions and setting of temp tower so it doesn't slice nicely anymore with 0.2mm layer height. All you need to do is, select the temp tower model and on the left side click on scaling (the second icon from the top), deselect uniform scaling and as z put in 76.4 And slice the model (of course add the script beforehand). Now check if cura sliced it into 382 layers. If yes then check if your base (layers before the tower blocks) is 4 layers tall. If it is, change the script's setting to Change Layer: 42; Change Layer Offset: 4. You can check if the tower works by adding (from 4, the actual temp starting layer) 42 (so 46, 88, etc.). It should perfectly fit. If retraction tower has the same issue I'll see if I can fix it. Why those numbers? Here's a bit of math: Not counting the base, you need number of layers that divide nicely by 9 (the number of blocks), when you set model z height to 76.4 you get 382 layers. 382 temp layers - 4 base layers = 378 -> a number that nicely divides by 9 (and gives us 42 which we input as layer temp change). This way you can slice the model using 0.2 and have perfect temp tower with 9 temps to check. I have no idea what they did but it's a pretty simple fix.
As for the retraction tower, you can set it to z height 39 or 38.8 and leave the Change Layer as 38 and Change Offset as 4. It does not divide perfectly, but I think that's because the segments aren't the same height. With z height 39 you get all perfect but the last segment has one more layer which will be printed with 6mm retraction (won't really do anything bad, I don't think); with 38.8 it fits kind of well but you'll be printing the first layer of next segment with previous retraction setting, that also shouldn't do anything. With default z height it prints the last half layers of bridge (at layer 5) with retraction of 6 so this might throw off your visual examination slightly. It should be noted that I didn't try any other layer height but 0.2mm. Also a tip: You can make one retraction model and just change the temperature in the tuning of your 3d printer right after you select the model for printing. (I know for a fact that you can do that on Ender3 v2), this way you don't need to slice a new model each time you get a new filament or when testing new settings. You just have to remember to tune that temperature setting directly in the printer.
Instead of scaling the model, why not change the numbers to match in the post processing script? Also is there any way to preview the temperature of a layer in cura? Otherwise the only way to know if you've got it set correctly is to actually print and take note of the temp on the display as it prints.
I've had my Ender 3 for a few weeks now and needed to get print quality good enough to sell the parts. This method helped me work out I was printing too hot and also able to shorten my retraction distance. Now my prints are perfect and can be sold! Thank you, CHEP!
If your wondering why the starting temp isnt 220, its because it starts at 200 and only increases the temp to 220 once it gets close to level 38. Putting this here, as this comment would have saved me 20 minutes of stress. Also gonna repeat CHEPS comment below as i missed it. Newer versions of cura dont have the "Copy Script" option. Just ignore that part and continue with the rest of his steps.
Thank you, as always very informative video, With the strings people usually say : replace extruder, replace hotend, increase temperature to 240, etc .... really the retraction is a key
Hey guys - another tip about the plugin. When you have finished your calibration prints go to EXTENSIONS->POST PROCESSING->MODIFY GCODE and ensure you remove all of the scripts or they can affect your next print job. I am printing a part right now and was wondering why is my temperature wrong, and why does it keep changing. It's because I left the script active which modifies the temperature for the tower :( Thanks again for the video Chuck, and hope this helps someone.
Thank you for being clear about the details of this content. Most creator's would go on with off topic detail's, or really long explanation that you don't need to hear. This really helped me with retraction!
Thanks Chuck. I didn't even realize these were there. There's another plugin called Auto Towers that makes life even easier. I've been 3D printing for over 3 years now and I completely missed them. I only started to look for a solution when I switched to an all-metal hot-end on my Artillery Sidewinder X2. From now on every spool is going to get proper tests and the results written on the side of the spool. Great video.
Thank you Chep! Really strange, for the temp tower it matches the 38th layer byt next layer should be at 76 but it is 77?! I have the 0.2mm standard quality settings, what have I missed?
Thanks once again. We can always count on you if there are issues with our printer that you have the solution for it! Please keep it up! First it didn’t work at all. I had to restart cura then safe the files again. Worked like a charm.
I’ve been scouring the web all night trying to set input shaping and pressure advance etc etc trying to work out the best settings for everything and as I was about to give up for the day I found this video, god bless you, you’ve saved me hours more and plenty of headaches to get the next few settings right
You skipped over the 'Change Layer Offset' settings, which is what layer does the tower really start. For these towers, the first 4 layers are just the base. If you don't set this, the whole tower will be off by the base layer count, which is usually 4 (meaning the setting should be 5 - where the tower really starts).
Without this channel, I would have given up already! You sir are an amazing source for information and tutorials on this hobby! Thank you!! You’ve saved me more than once!
I am using Cura 4.8 ( I won't use a newer version) and I wasn't able to download the plugins the usual way. I was able to go to the market and install them that way and it said they were added. I restarted Cura (and later my computer) and I do not see the calibration shapes, nor do I see the "part for calibration" under extensions.
Since getting the Ender 3 unboxed I’ve done a calibration cube, benchy, and a few prints in PLA. Using PETG is a whole different ballgame that requires calibration towers first. Of course I learned it the hard way with failed print after failed print in PETG. Calibration towers are almost mandatory. Did a temp tower first and got the ideal temp dialed in yey! Next is retraction distance & speed towers. This video helps detail what to look for. There’s a difference in using a diagnostic tool and understanding what the data means. 😉 Thank you for the video.
I think you didn't understand/explain the offset. I think the offset should be subtracted from the layer change value. So if it's really 4 layers, then it would be 34 instead of 38 for the layer change. If you look closely, you can see that at layer 38 you're in the bottom of the bridge but on layer 76 you're in the middle of the next bridge rather than the bottom. Still a great video and has helped me quite a bit.
Man, how i love your video's. You explain everything so clear, simple and calm. Im normaly a hard/stubborn learner, but when tought correct i learn fast. You sir are excellent in what you do. Thank you.🙂
Actually they keep changing the settings, so 0.2 mm layer height will no longer work with the same post processing setting. Currently they suggest 0.16 mm layer height with temperature change at layer 52. However I suggest you go to cura extension -> part for calibration -> help and then go to the calibration print site that will explain to you the most recent suggested settings. Hope this helps.
Great, great, great advice, @CHEP. This should be part of everyone's workflow when changing filament ( or characterize your filament inventory when you receive a new spool ).
A great video for everyone's tool box is a series of built in Cura calibration tests / scripts to optimize your printer at a given speed with in a specific order. Will help a lot of new hobbyists.
I tried to run this test on my AnyCubic Mega S but it seems that the script does nothing. The temperature used to start the print is the one set in my printer profile, which is 200 C on the first layer and subsequent layers are dropping down to 198 (seems to work the best for me for no stringing). But I would expect the G-Code generated by the script to take precedence over my settings which did not happen. Would you have any insight as to why? Thanks.
It appears the script will not override the profile temp as a starting temperature. My profile was set to 210, so the script started at 210. Once the tower hit the 205 section, the temperature did change to 205. If you modify your profile to start at 220, it will work correctly at 220, then step down 5 per section as defined. I'm running Cura 4.8.0.
There is so much to learn with 3D Printing. It can be hard to keep things straight my mind, but your quick tutorials have been sticking. You make learning this fun hobby...well, fun! 😉
I struggled for days producing towers like his, all looking the same and with no temp changes being ever shown on the screen of my Ender3 pro with 1.1.5 board and Marlin 1.1.9 [ as delivered installed by Creality]. My problem turned out after 2 days of torment to be that I was using non-standard slicer settings. When I changed to the "Standard Quality" settings in the Cura 11 slicer with all layers being 0.2, and then in the slicer I set all the print temps all to 220° [the start temp set in the "TempFanTower" script] except the "Final Printing Temperature" to 190 as per the script setting, all went well. The tower printed as it should, the screen showed the temp as it changed, and the tower went from a stringy blobby mess at 220 to a good print at 195 and 190. I hope my findings help someone.
Had input the same numbers for TempFanTower: 220 / -5 / 38 / 4.0 as shown in your example. However, when checking temp change layer in preview mode, 220 temp starts at layer 39 (rather than 38) and then goes to layer 82 at 215 temp, then 122 at 210 temp. The temp changes are not occurring at even increments of 38. Is there a step I am missing please?
Chep,. Thank you for all your filament Friday vidoes. There’s still so much for me to learn but damn , your videos are making that process of becoming more comfortable with printing and learning the settings . Thank you , sir !
hello. i did what you did on the temp tower. when i get the G-Code and place it into my Ender 3 Pro. i start printing and it does not change the temp where i set it at, so i have to manually change it during print. is there something i am doing wrong? i am using Ultimaker Cura 5.2.1
i had this problem as well. (With the creality slicer). Try to see if you can save it as "save as file" and then "gcode". In the creality software you can save as "save as creality format" but that didnt work for me. To check if it works, open de file with textbook (Right mouse click) and in my case (ender v2 neo) And CNTRL+F to search for M104 and see if the settings are there.
for the ones who coudn't calibrate the retraction even after playing with it for weeks, such as me who is a beginner with a 3d printer. 1, make sure the filament tube isn't loose or doesn't move when it's retracting. Check it with a tape or marker. 2, when the nozzle is heated up, slowly feed the filament until it comes out the nozzle and wait until it doesn't come out of the nozzle. In my case the nozzle drooped for around 20cm which isn't normal. 3, clean the heating element, search on the internet how to do it the proper way. 4, check if the filament goes easely through the filament tube, do this while the tube is disconnected from both sides.
I've been dealing with really bad stringing for MONTHS, I had no idea what was causing it, let alone how to fix it! I've done the temperature tower, just printing the retraction one now. Hopefully this will fix my problem. Thanks for another really useful, easy to follow video!
@@FilamentFriday I feel like an absolute idiot right now, but I'd forgotten to disable the Cura script for the retraction test tower, so it was trying to run it during my non-test print. Total facepalm moment, but fingers crossed the print I have running now will come out a lot cleaner now I've turned that off.
I already had the extension installed, but I never really looked through it that closely so I never knew just how useful it had become. Thanks for going through it like you did. I'll have to give it a closer look now.
Thank You Chuck! Just purchased my first Borden printer...Voxelab Aquila. Printed the sample..perfectly! I wanted a more definitive solution to finding my correct settings for my projects.
So are you saying only one of the retraction settings matters? If more than one setting matters how would you go about calibrating that? Would you do speed for example and then run another calibration tower with the speed you found on the first test to then find the right distance setting?
I think what I would do to start out would be to use the slicer recommended print speed for the material you're testing, then do a temp tower, then retraction tower. After you determine the temperature and retraction, then you can fine tune print speed, acceleration, jerk, etc. Hope that helps.
So I just got the car 6se and any time I try to print something it doesn’t save the nozzle temp or speed. And I tried doing this and non of the settings change throughout the print. Can someone please send me detailed information on how to fix this. Please and thank you Ps. I’m running cura 4.8
These videos are so helpful. I've been printing for 3 months and still learning new stuff all the time. This is a great tool to tweak my printer to get my prints even better. I did not know about this plugin and this makes it so much easier than what I did previously.
I sliced with Cura 5.0 the scripts are already added. However, when I save to disk then send it to Octoprint it doesn't change temps OR retractions. I checked to make sure I had the script in the bottom right after slicing. I am sure I'm doing something wrong, obviously, and its probably simple. Please help.
Been following your channel for years. Never had most of the problems you've had with your Ender 3. I just bought the Sunlu S8 because of your previous video. Can't wait for it to arrive. Keep up the good work! 😎👍👍👍👍
I don't get it. I tried to follow what you did and check the layers of the change in Cura, but on the temp tower when I checked where the layer change should be the first one was at 40 (don't know why) and the next one was at 82, and next was 124 and so on. What settings are wrong? I did the PETG one and had 250, -5, 40(since that was the change for me) and 4 respectively.
This is a great plugin for Cura! Question, if running the retraction tower with the provided script. When you slice and print, does it override your current retraction setting in Cura. Or do you have to set your Retraction at 1? Mine is at 6 normally.
Yeah good question because when I do this my control panel still says the temp I had been printing at prior. Will control panel change temp reading as it prints or is it changing temps due to the scrip and control panel doesn't change?
Hi, thanks for all the amazing videos! I have an Ender-3 Pro (and Ender 5 Plus), when I check the layers of the temp. tower I see that the first layer of each of the bridges are at layers: 39 81 122 164 205 247 289 Which means at jumps of: 42,41,42,41,42,42, how could it be and how should I resolve this please?
I had same with my Ender-5 Pro, and while I don't know if it was the "right" solution, I put a "Change Layer Offset" in of -3, to basically get the first change to 42. I know that won't make everything perfect, because some are 41 and some are 42, but until someone that really knows what they are doing answers, that is what I tried. It is running now.
I have the exact same numbers as well on my Ender 3D pro. First 4 lines of base, starting at 5. First ceiling at 39, then at 81, 122, 164, ... I entered Change Layer at 41 and Offset at 0. This matches the physical part best following y = ax+b. I feel this is good enough for a general impression.
Thanks a lot, my printer was clicking because the retraction was very large and fast, and i calibrate it and then i can made my first print (different of the sample-default-factory model). I have an Elegoo Neptune 2. Greats from Colombia
Excuse me chep but I don't know why at home it should change the temperature is different, it is increased in the onfiguration the temperature change should be in layer 39 and it does it correctly but in the next temperature change it does not occur in layer 78 but the 81 and so every time that it should change the temperature every 39 layers the first increases 3 layers instead it happens in the 81 in the second level it happens in the 122 layer 5 more layers in the third level it happens in the 164 layer and I in the 156 as it should be. why is this happening to me any ideas? Thank you
Hey man, you wont need to copy any scripts. You just need to activate the Post Processing Script 'TempFanTower' (See timestamp 3:51) and slice it accordingly.
I tried the retract tower and there was no difference between the tower levels. I went into the gcode to see if the retract speed or distance was being changed at each level and the only G1 E command was at the end. Is there another command that sets these? I tried using the post processor and it made no difference. Im using the very latest cura. Anyone know what gives?
what printer do you have? Is it direct drive or bowden? I am guessing you have a fairly well dialed direct drive printer and if you are using the 1mm-5mm settings as the tower is set up for, the only difference is going to be some VERY SLIGHT stringing at about 3mm and up. I blew on mine and they went away so all levels of the entire tower now look the same.
Superb job. Just what I needed to find my point of failure for the retraction test print that's going really wrong at the moment. Why try multiple settings one by one when this superb plugin exists. Thank you so much for sharing, it's really helpful.
So I have a crazy question. I look at the layer and the top of my first bridge is 40 but the top of my second bridge is 78 and the third is 117, forth is 156 and fifth is 193. Why are they not in even?
may have figured it out by now but just take the top layer number and divide by the amount of bridges, recheck your new number and make sure it hits all the bridges it should just be just over a layer or 2
@@bginvestor101 I set the printer to pre-heat for PLA and the load the g-code that appeared to have no temperatures. I loaded the program that appeared to have no temperatures and after the auto-home at the start of the program it paused, temp went up to 220 and it started printing. It's still on the first layer but it looks like it's working. It's hard to tell though, just got this new Ender 3 V2 last week and it has display problems. The display randomly jumbles the images and I can't tell anything about what's going on.
Thanks for the video on this topic. Im new to 3d printing about 3 months now and i ordered some IIID Max filament and was having a hard time getting it to print. Now its printing pretty good for cheap filament..thanks again CHEP
@@FilamentFriday The direct drive on my printer has a retraction distance of 1.35 and speed is 40. If I go to 3.5 - 4 for distance it almost always clogs. So I was just wondering if the settings for a retraction test would be different with the microswiss direct drive.
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Note: If you use a newer version of Cura than I use in this video, you don’t have to “Copy Scripts” they are already included when you restart Cura.
For more information on settings visit this: github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes/wiki
I thought I was going crazy, thanks
So, all i have to do is send it to the printer, it will change temperatures an retaction as they model prints?
Let's not talk about how much time I wasted before reading this... :-) Get your tower, reboot, Extensions>Post Processing>Modify G-Code THEN add the script you want, Like RetractTower close, then a little red dot on the lower right part of your screen shows it's active, SLICE it and go print... Also, remember to remove the script when no longer needed in Cura.
Did you Do this for tpu?
Can u make a tutorial with the new cura I am a total noob just trying to learn
I've been running an ender 3 farm for a couple years now and never even knew about the plugins. I'm always learning! They seem so useful. Great video.
and I'm just watched like 4 videos on how to download temp towers, and set it up manually, this is all ready! im freaking happy
They just added in cura 4.12
Oscar, in your experience what do you think works best: to print as cold as possible (190) or to go as hot as possible (220)? I've been doing these tests and with the correct settings, printed parts look the same.
@@MeGrimlock511 if the result is same, I would print low temp .... energy saving, but the question is, how the layers will stick together in low temp and how strong the print is ? If the layers are disconnecting, it's not good
I sure there are other videos the cover this same content, but you explain and show the process in a way I can understand. I think I can afford to cover your coffee. Thanks so much for these instructional videos.
Granted, I mostly use simplify 3-D. But holy shit are your videos unbelievably useful. You are a goddamn champion. Love the channel bro
4 weeks into a new printer and having watched lots of videos I got more helpful information from this video than any other video. It will help me fix stringing and temperature issues I've been fighting with. Thank you for this video!
You are The King of Cura Uni! Nobody in this realm instructs better than you do.
Out of all the 3d Primting U Tubers out there, I have learned the most from Chep. Extremely helpful in getting this old dog to learn new tricks.
These temp towers and retraction tests are exactly what I needed.
Thank you so much CHEP.
Thanks for this. Got a new filament and decided it would be a good idea to go ahead with a big print before testing the retraction settings Not my smartest move
Hi Chep - not been happy with a recently acquired roll of Carbon Fibre PLA, so I decided to try re-calibrating using this process. I was rather surprised to discover that the Temp Tower implied that I should be printing at 35C BELOW minimum manufacturers recommended temperature of 220C, using twice the retraction I had previously (3mm) - Absolutely outstanding print results.
Thank you SO much
When checking the layer heights in preview, I found out that in Cura you can manually type the number in by clicking on the number box on the slider.
Just getting into FDM after a couple of years of resin printing, your videos are invaluable for a beginner.
I was about to smash my little ender 3 to bits. Had enough. Videos like these give me hope. Try again tomorrow.
Running Cura 4.11 and the scripts copy button no longer exists, but they can be copied to the post processing folder manually from the GITHUB repo.
This is so awesome. I'm finally going to be able to get all of my filaments dialed in to perfection... and then use them together under the best conditions for each.
In Cura 4.11, it doesn't seem like you need to do the "scripts copy" step. You can go straight to "extensions > post-processing > g-code" and continue with the video's instructions from there.
Funny this is exactly what I was looking for at the exact time I needed it 😬
Algorithms are not only listening, they are predicting your thought matrix
I learned a lot about Cura plugins and to use them from watching your video. I think you are a great presenter and easy to watch.
Thanks for that CHEP. I noticed that in Cura 4.11 that the script for the Temp Tower needs to be changed to:
Starting 220
Temp Increment: -5
Change Layer: 41
Change Layer Offset: 4.0
Very clear and methodically laid out.
The right mix of content vs complexity. Excellent job.
Here's a fix with explanation for those that can't figure it out:
For some reason they've changed the dimensions and setting of temp tower so it doesn't slice nicely anymore with 0.2mm layer height. All you need to do is, select the temp tower model and on the left side click on scaling (the second icon from the top), deselect uniform scaling and as z put in 76.4 And slice the model (of course add the script beforehand). Now check if cura sliced it into 382 layers. If yes then check if your base (layers before the tower blocks) is 4 layers tall. If it is, change the script's setting to Change Layer: 42; Change Layer Offset: 4. You can check if the tower works by adding (from 4, the actual temp starting layer) 42 (so 46, 88, etc.). It should perfectly fit. If retraction tower has the same issue I'll see if I can fix it.
Why those numbers? Here's a bit of math: Not counting the base, you need number of layers that divide nicely by 9 (the number of blocks), when you set model z height to 76.4 you get 382 layers. 382 temp layers - 4 base layers = 378 -> a number that nicely divides by 9 (and gives us 42 which we input as layer temp change). This way you can slice the model using 0.2 and have perfect temp tower with 9 temps to check. I have no idea what they did but it's a pretty simple fix.
As for the retraction tower, you can set it to z height 39 or 38.8 and leave the Change Layer as 38 and Change Offset as 4. It does not divide perfectly, but I think that's because the segments aren't the same height. With z height 39 you get all perfect but the last segment has one more layer which will be printed with 6mm retraction (won't really do anything bad, I don't think); with 38.8 it fits kind of well but you'll be printing the first layer of next segment with previous retraction setting, that also shouldn't do anything. With default z height it prints the last half layers of bridge (at layer 5) with retraction of 6 so this might throw off your visual examination slightly. It should be noted that I didn't try any other layer height but 0.2mm.
Also a tip: You can make one retraction model and just change the temperature in the tuning of your 3d printer right after you select the model for printing. (I know for a fact that you can do that on Ender3 v2), this way you don't need to slice a new model each time you get a new filament or when testing new settings. You just have to remember to tune that temperature setting directly in the printer.
@Sir Scofferoff That's what I did.
@Sir Scofferoff Any chance you have a link for the one that you found that works with the script as is and is designed better?
Instead of scaling the model, why not change the numbers to match in the post processing script? Also is there any way to preview the temperature of a layer in cura? Otherwise the only way to know if you've got it set correctly is to actually print and take note of the temp on the display as it prints.
@@dogsbd Where do you download temp tower that works with 0.2mm layer? The above fix didn't work for me.
Just bought my first printer and your channel has been by far the best resource I have found while getting into printing. Thank you !
Don’t forget - dry your filament. „Wet“ or moist filament will also cause stringing
Get an air tight container and put a pound of silica gel beads in it it work so well
Thanks, Chep. Your videos are making my learning of 3D printing a lot less stressful. Keep 'em coming.
Perfect timing! I’m struggling with stringing, and this will come in very useful.
Same here, just what I was looking for - I can print PLA just fine but no matter what I do PETG just strings like crazy. Will run some tests!
Exact same issue for me as well, happy I found this video... Now, if I can get a Chep video for adhesion and warping issues...
Here you go: th-cam.com/video/D45eIhoWSyg/w-d-xo.html
I printed PETG for the 1st time today. I did a temp tower. Came out really nice and looks best at 235°C.
Will do this retraction test in the morning.
I've had my Ender 3 for a few weeks now and needed to get print quality good enough to sell the parts.
This method helped me work out I was printing too hot and also able to shorten my retraction distance.
Now my prints are perfect and can be sold! Thank you, CHEP!
If your wondering why the starting temp isnt 220, its because it starts at 200 and only increases the temp to 220 once it gets close to level 38. Putting this here, as this comment would have saved me 20 minutes of stress. Also gonna repeat CHEPS comment below as i missed it. Newer versions of cura dont have the "Copy Script" option. Just ignore that part and continue with the rest of his steps.
Oh ty, definitely useful information
Thank you!
Thank you, as always very informative video,
With the strings people usually say : replace extruder, replace hotend, increase temperature to 240, etc ....
really the retraction is a key
Exactly. Kept changing everything all the time. Spent some time doing retraction test and now the problem is solved.
Hey guys - another tip about the plugin. When you have finished your calibration prints go to EXTENSIONS->POST PROCESSING->MODIFY GCODE and ensure you remove all of the scripts or they can affect your next print job. I am printing a part right now and was wondering why is my temperature wrong, and why does it keep changing. It's because I left the script active which modifies the temperature for the tower :(
Thanks again for the video Chuck, and hope this helps someone.
Thank you for being clear about the details of this content. Most creator's would go on with off topic detail's, or really long explanation that you don't need to hear. This really helped me with retraction!
how can 12 people dislike this??? its straight forward and taught me how to test!
Easy, the fantemp script doesn't work on my Ender3pro with 1.1.5 board and Marlin 1.1.9.
Thanks Chuck. I didn't even realize these were there. There's another plugin called Auto Towers that makes life even easier. I've been 3D printing for over 3 years now and I completely missed them. I only started to look for a solution when I switched to an all-metal hot-end on my Artillery Sidewinder X2. From now on every spool is going to get proper tests and the results written on the side of the spool. Great video.
Thank you Chep!
Really strange, for the temp tower it matches the 38th layer byt next layer should be at 76 but it is 77?! I have the 0.2mm standard quality settings, what have I missed?
Thanks once again. We can always count on you if there are issues with our printer that you have the solution for it!
Please keep it up!
First it didn’t work at all. I had to restart cura then safe the files again. Worked like a charm.
My layers don’t add up. Like I’m at like 40 for the first layer change and 82 for the other.
I’ve been scouring the web all night trying to set input shaping and pressure advance etc etc trying to work out the best settings for everything and as I was about to give up for the day I found this video, god bless you, you’ve saved me hours more and plenty of headaches to get the next few settings right
"marketplace" is such a terrible name. I associate that with "in app purchases" and just ignore it.
Thanks Chep!
Same
Thank you for all you do, Chuck. You are a great teacher and a boon to this community.
You skipped over the 'Change Layer Offset' settings, which is what layer does the tower really start. For these towers, the first 4 layers are just the base. If you don't set this, the whole tower will be off by the base layer count, which is usually 4 (meaning the setting should be 5 - where the tower really starts).
Without this channel, I would have given up already! You sir are an amazing source for information and tutorials on this hobby! Thank you!! You’ve saved me more than once!
Thanks for watching
I am using Cura 4.8 ( I won't use a newer version) and I wasn't able to download the plugins the usual way. I was able to go to the market and install them that way and it said they were added. I restarted Cura (and later my computer) and I do not see the calibration shapes, nor do I see the "part for calibration" under extensions.
Since getting the Ender 3 unboxed I’ve done a calibration cube, benchy, and a few prints in PLA. Using PETG is a whole different ballgame that requires calibration towers first. Of course I learned it the hard way with failed print after failed print in PETG. Calibration towers are almost mandatory. Did a temp tower first and got the ideal temp dialed in yey! Next is retraction distance & speed towers. This video helps detail what to look for. There’s a difference in using a diagnostic tool and understanding what the data means. 😉 Thank you for the video.
I think you didn't understand/explain the offset. I think the offset should be subtracted from the layer change value. So if it's really 4 layers, then it would be 34 instead of 38 for the layer change. If you look closely, you can see that at layer 38 you're in the bottom of the bridge but on layer 76 you're in the middle of the next bridge rather than the bottom.
Still a great video and has helped me quite a bit.
Man, how i love your video's. You explain everything so clear, simple and calm. Im normaly a hard/stubborn learner, but when tought correct i learn fast. You sir are excellent in what you do. Thank you.🙂
Actually they keep changing the settings, so 0.2 mm layer height will no longer work with the same post processing setting. Currently they suggest 0.16 mm layer height with temperature change at layer 52. However I suggest you go to cura extension -> part for calibration -> help and then go to the calibration print site that will explain to you the most recent suggested settings. Hope this helps.
Bro!! Lifesaver 👌👌👌👌
This was super helpful! Thank you for commenting!
Great, great, great advice, @CHEP. This should be part of everyone's workflow when changing filament ( or characterize your filament inventory when you receive a new spool ).
Do we have to manually change the temperature at each level, mine remained the same temp throughout?
A great video for everyone's tool box is a series of built in Cura calibration tests / scripts to optimize your printer at a given speed with in a specific order. Will help a lot of new hobbyists.
I tried to run this test on my AnyCubic Mega S but it seems that the script does nothing. The temperature used to start the print is the one set in my printer profile, which is 200 C on the first layer and subsequent layers are dropping down to 198 (seems to work the best for me for no stringing). But I would expect the G-Code generated by the script to take precedence over my settings which did not happen. Would you have any insight as to why? Thanks.
It appears the script will not override the profile temp as a starting temperature. My profile was set to 210, so the script started at 210. Once the tower hit the 205 section, the temperature did change to 205. If you modify your profile to start at 220, it will work correctly at 220, then step down 5 per section as defined. I'm running Cura 4.8.0.
I have been struggling to find the right settings for my rainbow silk PLA and this video was a godsend. Thank you!
So, guess what I did last weekend? That's right. I clogged my printer.
😬😬😬
What caused that?
🤣YES!
I dont get it... Mines clogged allaaa timme🫡
Black pla?
Excellent tutorial packed with useful practical information, not a lot of chit chat about totally unrelated stuff👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
None of my temp tower scripts matched the ABS tower. What's does change layer offset mean?
There is so much to learn with 3D Printing. It can be hard to keep things straight my mind, but your quick tutorials have been sticking. You make learning this fun hobby...well, fun! 😉
I struggled for days producing towers like his, all looking the same and with no temp changes being ever shown on the screen of my Ender3 pro with 1.1.5 board and Marlin 1.1.9 [ as delivered installed by Creality]. My problem turned out after 2 days of torment to be that I was using non-standard slicer settings. When I changed to the "Standard Quality" settings in the Cura 11 slicer with all layers being 0.2, and then in the slicer I set all the print temps all to 220° [the start temp set in the "TempFanTower" script] except the "Final Printing Temperature" to 190 as per the script setting, all went well. The tower printed as it should, the screen showed the temp as it changed, and the tower went from a stringy blobby mess at 220 to a good print at 195 and 190. I hope my findings help someone.
I had no idea about the calibration links in Cura. Thanks! Way easier than the old school method of G code editing
Had input the same numbers for TempFanTower: 220 / -5 / 38 / 4.0 as shown in your example. However, when checking temp change layer in preview mode, 220 temp starts at layer 39 (rather than 38) and then goes to layer 82 at 215 temp, then 122 at 210 temp. The temp changes are not occurring at even increments of 38. Is there a step I am missing please?
I just set it to change every 42 layers
Chep,. Thank you for all your filament Friday vidoes. There’s still so much for me to learn but damn , your videos are making that process of becoming more comfortable with printing and learning the settings .
Thank you , sir !
If your temp tower doesnt change temp, you need to disable Z Hop in Cura as it trips up the scripting.
Why did it take so long for me to come across this video/plug-in? Chep, once again you are a life saver. I love your videos. Patreon here I come
hello. i did what you did on the temp tower. when i get the G-Code and place it into my Ender 3 Pro. i start printing and it does not change the temp where i set it at, so i have to manually change it during print. is there something i am doing wrong? i am using Ultimaker Cura 5.2.1
i had this problem as well. (With the creality slicer). Try to see if you can save it as "save as file" and then "gcode". In the creality software you can save as "save as creality format" but that didnt work for me.
To check if it works, open de file with textbook (Right mouse click) and in my case (ender v2 neo) And CNTRL+F to search for M104 and see if the settings are there.
Every time I run into an issue I need a solution for u have the answers on here thanks again 🤣 second time u have helped me in 2 days.
could you make a profile for a ender 3v2 pro with a sonic pad please?
Chuck, you are the man! Got a new ender 3 pro for Christmas and I'd be stuck wthout your amazing tutorials! Thank you.
for the ones who coudn't calibrate the retraction even after playing with it for weeks, such as me who is a beginner with a 3d printer.
1, make sure the filament tube isn't loose or doesn't move when it's retracting. Check it with a tape or marker.
2, when the nozzle is heated up, slowly feed the filament until it comes out the nozzle and wait until it doesn't come out of the nozzle. In my case the nozzle drooped for around 20cm which isn't normal.
3, clean the heating element, search on the internet how to do it the proper way.
4, check if the filament goes easely through the filament tube, do this while the tube is disconnected from both sides.
@@bearinch thanks for the advise
I've been dealing with really bad stringing for MONTHS, I had no idea what was causing it, let alone how to fix it! I've done the temperature tower, just printing the retraction one now. Hopefully this will fix my problem.
Thanks for another really useful, easy to follow video!
Update: No luck... this is getting really frustrating, I wish i could figure out what was causing this
Did you try this: th-cam.com/video/OG7We83M5gc/w-d-xo.html
@@FilamentFriday I feel like an absolute idiot right now, but I'd forgotten to disable the Cura script for the retraction test tower, so it was trying to run it during my non-test print. Total facepalm moment, but fingers crossed the print I have running now will come out a lot cleaner now I've turned that off.
Its so weird on my "Chane layer' it's all mixed up. Like it first changes layer on 39 then 72 then 120? What the hell?
I already had the extension installed, but I never really looked through it that closely so I never knew just how useful it had become. Thanks for going through it like you did. I'll have to give it a closer look now.
can you make one specifically for tpu?
Thank You Chuck!
Just purchased my first Borden printer...Voxelab Aquila. Printed the sample..perfectly!
I wanted a more definitive solution to finding my correct settings for my projects.
So are you saying only one of the retraction settings matters?
If more than one setting matters how would you go about calibrating that?
Would you do speed for example and then run another calibration tower with the speed you found on the first test to then find the right distance setting?
I think what I would do to start out would be to use the slicer recommended print speed for the material you're testing, then do a temp tower, then retraction tower. After you determine the temperature and retraction, then you can fine tune print speed, acceleration, jerk, etc. Hope that helps.
This is very helpful, thank you. I can't wait to try these out when I get home tonight.
Interesting. But, I use Prusaslicer. How can I use this for Prusaslicer 2.3.0?
You don't? It's a Cura plug in.
@@stldenise :( Thanks, P
Update on earlier post: Found I was having other issues with Cura 4.8. Reinstalled everything, now all is good. Confused but happy.
So I just got the car 6se and any time I try to print something it doesn’t save the nozzle temp or speed. And I tried doing this and non of the settings change throughout the print. Can someone please send me detailed information on how to fix this. Please and thank you
Ps. I’m running cura 4.8
These videos are so helpful. I've been printing for 3 months and still learning new stuff all the time. This is a great tool to tweak my printer to get my prints even better. I did not know about this plugin and this makes it so much easier than what I did previously.
chep can you please update this video.
Thank you! Also thank you for posting an updated comment, I'm on Cura 4.13.1 and scripts were already installed just like you said. Thanks!
Does the scripts work for you?
I sliced with Cura 5.0 the scripts are already added. However, when I save to disk then send it to Octoprint it doesn't change temps OR retractions. I checked to make sure I had the script in the bottom right after slicing. I am sure I'm doing something wrong, obviously, and its probably simple. Please help.
it takes about 5-10 minutes for me to change the temp while printing. So make sure you wait first
Been following your channel for years. Never had most of the problems you've had with your Ender 3. I just bought the Sunlu S8 because of your previous video. Can't wait for it to arrive. Keep up the good work! 😎👍👍👍👍
I’ve got a print farm of Ender 3’s running full time so I’ve seen most of the issues from all that printing.
@@FilamentFriday i trust you 😄. Longest print I've ever done was 13hrs. Love your content. I always use your bed level stl. 👍👍👍👍👍
I don't get it. I tried to follow what you did and check the layers of the change in Cura, but on the temp tower when I checked where the layer change should be the first one was at 40 (don't know why) and the next one was at 82, and next was 124 and so on. What settings are wrong?
I did the PETG one and had 250, -5, 40(since that was the change for me) and 4 respectively.
If you have a different layer height, you probably also need to also change the "change layer offset" value.
I have the same issue, I can't work it out either, set everything back to default, still out.
same issue
You read my mind, I have to do a retraction test today for a new PETG roll I got. Thanks!
This is a great plugin for Cura! Question, if running the retraction tower with the provided script. When you slice and print, does it override your current retraction setting in Cura. Or do you have to set your Retraction at 1? Mine is at 6 normally.
Yeah good question because when I do this my control panel still says the temp I had been printing at prior. Will control panel change temp reading as it prints or is it changing temps due to the scrip and control panel doesn't change?
It changes it in the GCode. You can check the file. It’s a post processing script so it modifies what the slicer produces.
Thanks! I just figured it out. Your the best. 👍
Just five minutes before you uploaded video, I found and installed this plugin in Cura. Nice sense of time, I love your Filament Fridays
Hi, thanks for all the amazing videos!
I have an Ender-3 Pro (and Ender 5 Plus), when I check the layers of the temp. tower I see that the first layer of each of the bridges are at layers:
39
81
122
164
205
247
289
Which means at jumps of: 42,41,42,41,42,42, how could it be and how should I resolve this please?
Maybe you have adaptive layers is enabled?
I have the exact same numbers as you. Were you able to figure it out? and I do NOT have adaptive layers enabled.
I had same with my Ender-5 Pro, and while I don't know if it was the "right" solution, I put a "Change Layer Offset" in of -3, to basically get the first change to 42. I know that won't make everything perfect, because some are 41 and some are 42, but until someone that really knows what they are doing answers, that is what I tried. It is running now.
I have the exact same numbers as well on my Ender 3D pro. First 4 lines of base, starting at 5. First ceiling at 39, then at 81, 122, 164, ... I entered Change Layer at 41 and Offset at 0. This matches the physical part best following y = ax+b. I feel this is good enough for a general impression.
I'm seeing the same thing, I just set it to 42 with an offset of 5 since that's pretty much close enough
Thanks a lot, my printer was clicking because the retraction was very large and fast, and i calibrate it and then i can made my first print (different of the sample-default-factory model). I have an Elegoo Neptune 2. Greats from Colombia
I hate getting oozing out of the nozzle when I move... I should probably see a doctor about that.
Nice, straight on the point. Short and concise
Excuse me chep but I don't know why at home it should change the temperature is different, it is increased in the onfiguration the temperature change should be in layer 39 and it does it correctly but in the next temperature change it does not occur in layer 78 but the 81 and so every time that it should change the temperature every 39 layers the first increases 3 layers instead it happens in the 81 in the second level it happens in the 122 layer 5 more layers in the third level it happens in the 164 layer and I in the 156 as it should be. why is this happening to me any ideas? Thank you
having the exact same issue. maybe cura changed the model? not sure why this is happening. please post if you find an answer
Having the same problem @chep Help?
UPDATE: Changed layer height to 0.23 and it's now aligned.
Same issue as well
Same
Excellent video. Just learned something new and it's only 5:00 am. This is going to help so much.
So I added the PLA temp tower and the other tower, go to select copy script and it’s not in my list, now what do I do!!!
It looks like its in a different place now. go to Extensions->Post Processing->Modify G-Code and select add script. Add the "TempFan Tower script"
Hey man, you wont need to copy any scripts. You just need to activate the Post Processing Script 'TempFanTower' (See timestamp 3:51) and slice it accordingly.
Exactly what I needed to know and well explained with a minimum of words. Very well done!
I tried the retract tower and there was no difference between the tower levels. I went into the gcode to see if the retract speed or distance was being changed at each level and the only G1 E command was at the end. Is there another command that sets these? I tried using the post processor and it made no difference. Im using the very latest cura. Anyone know what gives?
what printer do you have? Is it direct drive or bowden? I am guessing you have a fairly well dialed direct drive printer and if you are using the 1mm-5mm settings as the tower is set up for, the only difference is going to be some VERY SLIGHT stringing at about 3mm and up. I blew on mine and they went away so all levels of the entire tower now look the same.
Superb job. Just what I needed to find my point of failure for the retraction test print that's going really wrong at the moment. Why try multiple settings one by one when this superb plugin exists. Thank you so much for sharing, it's really helpful.
So I have a crazy question. I look at the layer and the top of my first bridge is 40 but the top of my second bridge is 78 and the third is 117, forth is 156 and fifth is 193. Why are they not in even?
same here
@@marekhrusovsky1397 Adaptive layers may be on
may have figured it out by now but just take the top layer number and divide by the amount of bridges, recheck your new number and make sure it hits all the bridges it should just be just over a layer or 2
Your videos are always very instructive and helpful for beginners like me. Thanks 👌
I'm using Cura 4.8, and the post processing script is not being included in the gcode file. arghh
Same here, when I save it then load it into the printer I'm not getting any temps (nozzle nor bed).
@@dksix1905 I found a work around in Cura 4.8. The "changeatZ" feature works in post processing, but a little more involved.
@@bginvestor101 I set the printer to pre-heat for PLA and the load the g-code that appeared to have no temperatures. I loaded the program that appeared to have no temperatures and after the auto-home at the start of the program it paused, temp went up to 220 and it started printing. It's still on the first layer but it looks like it's working. It's hard to tell though, just got this new Ender 3 V2 last week and it has display problems. The display randomly jumbles the images and I can't tell anything about what's going on.
Same situation for me as well! (Ender 3 V2)
Absolutely first class presentation! Many thanks from the UK!
5:29 I tried 205 retraction and broke my apparatus..
Nah Im jp🤣
Thanks for the video on this topic. Im new to 3d printing about 3 months now and i ordered some IIID Max filament and was having a hard time getting it to print. Now its printing pretty good for cheap filament..thanks again CHEP
Will this work on an ender 3 S1 direct drive?
I also Want to know this?
Sure. Why not?
@@FilamentFriday The direct drive on my printer has a retraction distance of 1.35 and speed is 40. If I go to 3.5 - 4 for distance it almost always clogs. So I was just wondering if the settings for a retraction test would be different with the microswiss direct drive.
@@Robin991000 yeah I want to know how to do it with the microswiss old DD and New NG
Typically I use 1 mm with most direct drive. It depends on the filament.
THANK YOU! I was having terrible stringing issues. Turns out, my hotend temp was too high. The Cura plug-in will be very helpful going forward!